Thanks for this video. I had my 2007 Camry Hybrid repaired by a Toyota dealer when it was at 75,000 miles. Was consuming about a quart and a half in 1200 miles when they tested it. They were very agreeable to fix the problem. Made it just in time under their miles or years maximum in the factory recall. I now have just over 100,000 miles on the car and it works fine. No mechanical or oil consumption problems. Based on your analysis I might be lucky to get 50000 more miles off the new repair. But water leaks in to the passenger cabin have been a real headache (not the sunroof or A/C drain). One thing to mention. When I asked the service people at Toyota what specifically needed to be repaired I never got a straight answer!!! Now I now why. I'd like to add that in the 13 years I've owned the car I never had one electrical problem, including all of the hybrid system.
It can also be the outside air intake for the fan blower. Under the wipers you'll usually have a grill which underneath has a hole for the air to pass through into the blower which is behind the glove compartment. This is where the outside air comes from when you use the outside air setting on the AC/fan system. This has drain holes below the level of the air hole. If the drain gets clogged with debris over time and if you have a large influx of water or are parked at an incline, it will fill to the level of the air hole and flood in through your blower area, soaking the blower in the process. How to figure it out? 1: Does it leak only after water is dumped on your car or does it happen even in dry weather? If the former, then pull the AC filter behind the glove compartment as soon as you notice the water and check if it is wet. If yes then it is probably the problem I described. This is assuming the passenger floorboard is getting wet. If elsewhere like the headliner, it could be the sunroof drain HOSES came loose. This happened to my car and was pooling water in the headliner and also wicking down the A frame and to the floorboard of the passenger side. I also had the clogged fresh air intake issue. It happened on random nights but not during the heavy rains which were happening at the time. Turned out the exact spot I would often park at had a sprinkler in front which was broken and would dump a strong steady stream of water exactly on the lower windshield which was enough when combined with the debris to cause an overflow into the fresh air intake hole. It coincided with the leaf debris I found on the passenger floor mat from being washed in through the intake.
I think the new piston is actually better.. because there is no cut out for the oil to drain out the oil is forced to go trough the oil ring itself resulting in a cooler ring .. the old design was allowing the oil to jet out of the cut out and not so muck trough the ring .
Correct. In addition, the oil rings were the biggest fault on these engines and on the newer 2ar-fe. The low tension oil rings were getting clogged from lack of maintenance. Pretty much if you didn't do your oil changes at 5k or below you were bound to have this problem.
@@robertjackson7590 from my understanding, all of the J series engines suffer from the same oil burning issues? I'm assuming that they're all running inadequate vacuum.. 🤔
The service kit includes new oil nozzles, and 3 piece piston rings, along with the new piston. You can't determine if it is fixed by looking only at the piston. However I appreciate that you did compare the two. I also wonder if the piston crown thickness changed. Look at the valve reliefs. Are carbon particles being driven by compression into the ring land area?
The kit does not include the pistons, they are purchased separately once the engine is torn down, and the sizes are determined. There are three sizes, A, B, and C, 90% are B-
Perhaps the deleted oil relief cutouts are designed to create higher pressure through the relief holes, keeping them clear. No doubt there would be a good reason for redesigning.
i was thinking the same thing. The cutouts may have let oil drain away externally too easily, where as you want the oil being forced through the 8x 1/16" inch drainage holes to stop them clogging up. I agree with you - there would be a reason they've decided to get rid of the cut-out drainage.
Interesting that a big, high quality company like Toyota could make such a big mistake. I own a popular Kawasaki motorcycle that from new, burned a lot of oil. On road trips I had to carry a quart or two of oil and top it up every time I filled the gas tank. Likely an issue with the piston ring design. The fix came with a performance upgrade I did- I had the cylinder bored out, replaced the piston with an oversized lightweight high performance piston and rings, and solved the oil loss issue. Also got a few more HP and better gas mileage in the process. Maybe $300 all in parts and labor.
thx for posting the video. Not sure about the answer yet. Here are some ideas: 1. the new piston top is smooth, instead of bumpy metal. looks like the top has been coated with some sort of teflon material. This may prevent soot from accumulating on the piston. perhaps its blown off and falls down with the blowby to the engine oil; and hopefully then filtered. 2. the blowby has to escape back into the crankcase by the ring-wall gap or the oil control drain holes. by eliminating the notch in the piston, more pressure is forced to the oil drain holes, thereby flushing more oil through them. My guess is this keeps the rings, and springs from gumming up because the oil is flowing more often through the spring-hole route, rather than just sitting there since the blowby pressure is escaping mainly through the notch. You can also see in your old piston severe blackening directly under the notch, indicating a lot of blowby gas has been exiting that way. what did you do to fix the problem? Did you post a video on your fix? thx again!
Thank you, for such a important comparison to the old piston's and the newly redesigned ones. Toyota, getting sneaky, and untruest worthy. I own a Camry, and it was leaking oil but that got fixed by someone like yourself who knew what he was doing. Now I have a jet engine sound and I believe that is my Intake Valve. The Intake manifold was checked and there was no oil leak found or air leak. But the mechanic did not check the Intake valve. So back I go another time. My car has 173,000 plus miles on it, and it runs like new, except for the noise, or the sound of a jet inside my car with windows rolled up. I hear it more and more when I come to stop sign and or turn a curve, or I accelerate up a small hill. I hope to see more of your very well done and clear informative videos. Thank you very much!!!
Hello, Today i did compression test on my 07 scion tc with 220k miles manufactured in aug/06. I got 170 on the first 2, 173 on third and almost 180 on 4th, I'm thinking it went up as i built compression/lubricated. I also noticed for the first time that my spark plugs had a lot more white fouling more than ever, especially cylinder 1, I changed them about a year ago with toyota oem, I believe i'm losing my oil through pistons/rings due to the plugs condition. I started topping off my oil at around 100k miles and of course has been getting worse through the years, I put in around half a quart every 500 miles and have always changed at 3-4k miles with castrol gtx(recently high mileage). I was already tested with the toyota oil consumption test years ago and they said i didn't fail the test. I always thought that the issue with the 2azfe was the wrong piston rings? Something about them being too small or being a single piece oil ring setup like the one in you're video versus a 3 piece setup like a sandwich with solid ring on top,waffle in the middle and another solid ring on bottom. Thanks for the video, i will continue to watch you're others.
If the gap in the rings rotates to the gap on the piston, you will lose some compression. And maybe some oil will go up to the top or on the walls and be consumed increasing oil consumption. I think that's the reason for deleting the gap.
Some problem as late model isuzu suvs. The 3.5 with direct injection And some of the later 3.2 engines. . I've known a handful of people not any shop that tare in to the engine, clean the little holes. add more holes and reassemble the hole thing, your basically doing an inframe, many hours of work to save one quart per 1,000 or mabe 350 miles in a real bad case. . With a isuzu that's mabe worth 3,000 in unusually good condition, it just doesn't pay to have a shop fix it for around 5K~ . Anyway Thank you for actually showing the holes are plugged, and the so called upgrade piston is not necessary a good thing. I can forward this video to several people I know with that toyota engine.
Actually a new piston is a solution to the problem if the car is past %60 of its life. As an example, if the oil burning vehicle has 125,000, then a new piston should be good for another 75,000 miles. But if as Mr. Repairvehicle says the piston wasn't really improved, you wouldn't want to build new cars with it.
Clogging would occur when some of the combustion gasses that escape past the piston rings deposit carbon. This mixes with the oil and clogs up the oil ring. Perhaps the fix is the removal of the drainage slots which would prevent the oil from draining away and leaving carbon deposits.
The Coking in the rings indicates using an oil with low flash point and not being changed enough. Need a good Group 4 oil instead of whatever was used. Usually, the coking happens most in the top ring that is exposed to combustion heat the most. Oil rings are more protected from the heat but not the crud. Lots of carbon buildup also. Direct injection engine?
reminds me of an issue with the ford UK pinto engine of the 70's it had cam wear issues, because the oil feed to it blocked due lazy not changing oil and using poor oil, the cheap fix was to put a nitrided cam in (and usually a performance one) but people never twigged the real reason, so the problem is the user and cheap oil, lack of changes, the truth is hard, they cant redesign it, its already a good design
Maybe people need to let the vehicles warm up a little more (1 minute vs 30 seconds or under) when they first start or not drive as aggressively at the beginning allowing metal tolerances get to operating temperature?
Hi, repairvehicle. Very good analysis and observations from you and several others that see an end to the tunnel. Apologies if this is a bit of a long read. I tend to be wordy when it gets technical! Clearly TOYO missed the flaws in their original piston. Unfortunately, TOYO is not the only one to have pushed out this faulty design. Saw something similar on another Japanese car maker's pistons. I believe that the elimination of the cutout and what appears now to be a 3 piece Oil Scraper ring. The old ring was bound to accumulate carbon ...with a smaller wire wound around another ring wire. This is all crammed together behind a one piece scraper ring. I read somewhere that this 'wire coil' was also there to give support or put outward pressure behind the one piece oil ring. Anyhow, I believe I have the oil burning problem and would appreciate any thoughts and insights. - 2009 Camry XLE, 2.4 Ltr, 2AZ-FE, Automatic. with 117,239 mi. on the ODO - Just checked the compression across all 4 cyl. cyl #1: 200 psi, #2: 192, #3: 190, #4: 196 ...new rated at 198 psi with < 14 psi variance - Bought from a Toyota associated dealer (GM who also owned a TOYO dealership) - Was still under original warranty for 6 months when I bought it in Feb 2011 - From records I got with the car, there was regular routine scheduled mtce by TOYO dealer. - After that, I routinely changed oil & filter every 5K miles with 0-20W full syn, either Mobil 1 or Valvoline depending on what was on sale! - Occasionally had to top up whenever the dipstick went down halfway or more. - I do recall not having to add any between changes in the early years after I bought it. In late February, I found the dipstick all the way down. Probably neglected to check it through the winter. Since then I have determined the oil is burning at a rate of 0.4 ltr/500 mi or 0.8 ltr/1000 mi. This is a second car for my wife /myself that we use locally and for longer trips as it is a lot more economical than our Highlander V6 when it is not needed. So far with research, I am leaning to do a ring/piston fix on board. I do not have an engine lift, but have done this job a couple of times on VWs. The differences are VTTi and tighter specs for the piston wrist pins that need to sized after pulling and measuring the small end of the existing rods. This is inconvenient as I cannot order all the parts until I can confirm the small end of the rods. Would like to keep the car or resell it later on once it is fixed. I do not believe the various suggestions to de-carbonize (without opening it up) are going to fix this. Its a hit or miss - probably more miss! ...than hit! The problem rings are so buried in the faulty pistons. Even if you get them out, cleaning out carbon on small parts is tough without doing more damage. To save money it might be OK to simply R&R & clean out the existing pistons and get another 75-100K miles - as it will happen again sooner or later, but for an extra $300-400 plus my labor, fix it right! Appreciate if you and others on this thread can chime in! Thanks
That's what dealers were doing to fix oil consumption, replacing pistons and rings. I have not able to find information on compression numbers. Pistons and rings will definitely help, but cylinder walls can be worn out, valve guides could be worn out, valve seals could be worn out too.
Andre D I think I have the solution for you. I have a tried tested and proven solution to solve the problem. No opening no modifications required. This is a NASA promoted technology for their rocket engines. I have tried it on many vehicles with great results. My own Altima 2004 treat at 2,50,000 kilometers and now at 3,85,000 kilometers and running like brand new. This will start with cleaning up the engine,compression sealing,and leaving no room for new carbon or sludge. The result will be , more power,more mileage,quiet and smoother engine and long long engine life with almost nil maintenance. Many cars have crossed million kilometers mark and still running like brand new. Cost very reasonable. Contact me and let us treat your car.
@@MrKhabbu Hi Sanjay, What Technology are you offering? Whats involved and where does it get done if its not a DIY? What is the reasonable cost? I am not here often (on TH-cam), so its just a fluke that I saw your comment. Not sure how to connect, but you can reach me directly at "cadmay46 at gmail.com" Thanks
Aside from the clogged lower ring problem, the main problem is oil getting to the top of the piston into the combustion tube. Getting rid of the cutouts may actually keep the oil down back where it's supposed to be. Ever think about that?
@@HaNg_ALL_ThE_tRaItOrS_hiGh yes, that space that was milled out of the wall on the lowest ring pocket, that allowed the oil to drain back down but didn't.
New ring design makes more sense. Low tension original ring design could lead to excess oil usage. Piston design not relevant, but would be replaced due to cost of dealer labor to clean them properly. Easier to replace pistons when rings are done. Part number should change if piston was different.
I have a 2015 Toyota Venza burning about a qt of oil every 1000 miles, I changed the oil every 5k miles give or take a few miles, I replaced pcv valve but that did not help, my next move is to rebuild the engine with new pistons and rings, and gaskets, do you this this will help?
How many miles were on the car when you bought it? What kind of oil were you using? How many miles on it now? Is your engine this clean on the inside th-cam.com/video/L68MSBhiwAU/w-d-xo.html
@@repairvehicle 71k miles, we serviced it Toyota dealer for the first 30k miles then valvoline after that about we did are oil change as often as could, the engine was dirty on the inside. I decided to have the engine rebuilt and just got it back from the shop, it’s running great and will be doing my oil changes every 3 to 4 k mile with mobile 1
Thank You. Fantastic guy. Clearest & easiest explanation to understand on the internet. You are the REAL automotive teacher. Keep up the good work my friend. We really appreciate it :)
This Toyota oil burning problem is also prevalent in many other models & years as well, because of bad piston/piston ring design. Corolla E120 3ZZFE engine from '01 to '08 usually develops this problem after a few years, for roughly 7 of every 10 vehicles. The only ones that don't are the ones that people 'religiously' maintain regular oil changes (like 2 to 3 times a year). But eventually in the end they will too. Bad piston design can sometimes be 'compensated' for with meticulous oil changes from the beginning. But it only delays the inevitable. Sometimes it can delay it many years though...
The oil burning problem could also be related to the quality of the oil. If the oil lacks additives then it will cause the oil rings to clog up because a poor quality oil that lacks additives will cause oil rings clogged up.
@@javirodify I agree about the whole draining too small but also if you don't get the right oil that has enough detergent to keep those holes from clogging up it will be a bigger problem so the drain hole can be a design issue because it's not big enough
As a technician, I can tell you the cars 2.4’s I’ve rebuilt still consume no oil. One has 75k miles since it’s rebuild. It seems Toyota had some issue with those cutouts, I can see no other reason to remove them. And our piston and piston rings are a different or updated part number when we would receive the oil consumption repair kit. No discernible difference in the rings, but I recall comparing pistons on the first one I did and coming to a similar conclusion that it’s just a band aid to get these cars out to 200k miles or so where it’s no longer Toyotas problem.
I bought a 2009 Matrix with the the dreaded 2azfe engine about two months ago. Car has 200k km. Bought it from the original owner who is an older lady that took good care of the care. All oil changes were done at the dealership with 5w20 conventional (I believe they use mobile 1). All oil changes were done at 8000km as recommended by the dealership. I drove the car for about 2000km and I noticed that it consumed about 0.7L per 2000km. I plan on switching to castrol edge synthetic oil 5w20. I can live with this consumption rate if I cam maintain it like this. I also plan to do BG EPR engine flush if it gets worse. There is also small seepage around valve cover gasket, but not significant ...no leakes whatsoever. Car runs good otherwise. I opened the oil filller cap when engine was running and I felt blowby..strong enough to shake the cap when I let it sit loose but no strong enough to blow it away. Do you think switching to synthetic oil is a good idea? Does oil consumption affect performance and fuel economy? Thanks a lot.
Conventional Oil has caused significant damage to the engine, oil consumption, carbon build up, seals damaged and so on. If you switch to synthetic oil, your fuel economy might improve. In general synthetic oils have more detergent than conventional Oils, and because engine is trashed on the inside you might or you might not see Oil leaks around seals because synthetic oil will start cleaning up carbon build from the seals. If the seals damaged and covered with carbon build then it will start leaking through slowly, wetness.
Thanks for the quick reply. I agree that synthetic is much better, but I don't think the engine is trashed. This engine is notorious with oil oil consumption even fo people who have only used synthetic oil. From what I have seen online, the oil rings are the issue. I don't believe there is oil sludge or carbon buildup anywhere except for garnish around the pistons and rings. I have read pretty good reviews on BG EPR engine flush and that's what I will do. I've heard about many people who had cars with this engine and their cars ran a very long time as long as they keep their oil topped off. I was just wondering if you have experience in getting them cleaned faster.
There's nothing on the market that will remove completely carbon build up from the rings. Use of high detergent Oil will help dissolve some carbon build but not everything, it requires piston and rings replacement.
Eliminating what you refer to as the cutout is the fix. The cutout was allowing too much oil to flow upwards towards the rings. The flow was too much for the rings and oil passage ways to effectively drain down. The result was oil going up into the combustion chamber and being burned off. Hence the oil consumption. With the cutout gone there is less oil moving up and less oil being burned or any at all. They did in fact correct the issue.
Great video, this problem has been bugging me because there is no clear description available. I want to clarify something. An engine from Kentucky or Japan could have all B type pistons, or it might have one A type (undersize to match the crank diameter) or it could have a C piston (oversize). 94% of pistons are B type (within tolerance), with very few over or undersized. This must be to save the forged crankshafts where machining was slightly oversize. I thought this defect was caused by the Kentucky pistons, because I cannot get any information about problems in Japan. So maybe its the rings or the angle of the oil drain hole. Finally, as I said below, maybe it is no solution at all.
OK, so they "redesigned" the piston, and I see they left out the 4 notches. Do they use the exact same Toyota part number oil rings for the new design piston, or did they redesign them too? You were showing the OLD rings fitting into the slot in the new piston - OK, so the slot is the same size, but did they change the oil ring spacer insides, and make the holes bigger?
Or u can just make sure u clean the carbon every so often to prevent the issue.... I would not reccomend putting anything in your fuel tank, as that prematurely wears out the fuel pump.
Hi, I am experiencing this same issue- 2azfe oil burning. My question is when changing the pistons and rings do I need to change camshaft and connecting rod or that is not necessary.
my 2014 honda accord was leaking 1qt at 5k miles now 5 1/2 years later add 1qt every 3k miles the oil rings on pistons are bad probably Chinese . Only fix is replace piston rings or keep adding oil or burn engine.
You can also bond a lubricant to the metal so that you never lose lubrication. This will prevent damage and it also frees up the rings... which addresses the oil use problem. 🙂
This all depends on the person performing the repairs. If the cylinders are worn from oil starvation some dealers will toss new pistons in anyways. The issue will go away for a little while and then return once the new rings start to leak again.
@@repairvehicle I just got it, is why I found your channel , tbh I don't know if burns yet. So I want to change the oil this weekend and check every 500miles. Al my cars get synthetic every 4k
Great vedeo. I have 2011 camry.. I use 0w20 synthetic.. And I change oil every 3000 miles... But it still burning the oil? Do u think I have that same problem?
I had 2011 Camry 2.5, I bought it brand new with zero miles. I had that Camry until 50k miles and 5 years. I changed my oil every 10k miles using this Oil and I didn't have to add any Oil between oil changes. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-0w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASMQT-EA&zo=5257753 Your Oil consumption is due to oil brand you are using. Also, it might be clogged up rings if previous owner used cheap Oil at long drain interval.
Toyota's new Piston provides less oil to the cylinder so when the oil control rings get clogged it will burn less oil. Probably less than is spec'd for replacing the engine under warranty. A high quality oil at a 5k interval would resolve this, period.
@@repairvehicle I think deleting the cutout/relief drain was their attempt at reducing the amount of oil that moves up and around the rings, clogging the oil cleaning ring system. I’d think it would improve.
By the way, I did try synthetic Mobil one oil and it was horrible. So I went back to Castrol. Don't know why I switched like that, but am back to using Castrol synthetic. Perhaps when changing the oil with mobile, messed it up some. But oil leak fixed.
@@jbean530 i think all big brand oil like castrol, valvoline, mobil 1 etc... are good, i think scotty kilmer even is like just get whatevers on special
My 09 burns 5 liters every month and I don’t even know what to do with it because I can’t sell it like that. The person that sold it to me never told me it was burning oil 😢. What advice do you think I should do to fix it
Cheap synthetic oil is only 10-15% better than conventional oil. Depending on the condition of vehicle, you can have engine rebuild (replace piston and valve seals) or replace with remanufactured engine and keep driving or you can quality synthetic oil and see how much it can lower oil consumption. How clean is your engine on the inside when you remove engine oil cap? What brand of full synthetic oil were you using? What brand of oil are you using now?
3rd Generation Prius revised piston and piston ring sets (again, with claim to reduce oil consumption), in model years 2014 and 2015 (per the following table). Would really like to see what the differences are, if you could get examples of the old and new. Thank you! year piston p/n ring set p/n 2010 13101-37120 13011-37110 2011 13101-37120 13011-37110 2012 13101-37120 13011-37110 2013 13101-37120 13011-37110 2014 13101-37240 13011-37110 2015 13101-37240 13011-37260
PS - to my previous comment. Toyota has a kit P/N 04005-42128 (no letters on the end), which costs nearly $400 for this job. It has the gaskets and new rings in it. Then you also buy the 4 pistons at about $60 each. So what I'm saying/meaning here is - the new rings come in that kit, and to me, to completely seal this deal, it would be good to know if the rings were modified also. Maybe you friend who gave you those pistons can show you a few new rings?
@@repairvehicle Well if he works at Toyota, he most likely will see more of these "smokers" coming in. Maybe you can ask him to save you the next set that he gets?
Wait a minute.....I have to change the suggestion I made in my reply - about asking your friend to save something for you. You don't need him for this. You HAVE the original rings, and you showed them in the video. You also showed you bought a NEW piston. So far so good. Now, all you have to do is get a set of NEW rings, and you'll be able to compare what we are talking about, no? OR....at the very least, ask your friend the next time he has to re-do an oil burner, maybe he could at least take a pictures of the new rings he's gonna use for that job??? The ones that come in that kit. I know that side-by-side comparisons would be better, but if anything significant was changed, I'm thinking it might be seen by a close up pic????
Great vid! I have one of these engines with 148000 miles uses two quarts per 5000 mi. Interesting information so what can you do? The car is in great shape been well taken care of. I was considering letting my mechanic rebuild but I have second thoughts now. I will never buy a Toyota again, they told me that my oil consumption was within their parameters and refused to even try to fix the problem. Total Bull!
If you think Toyota is bad, try gm, ford and fiat, they al have l oil consumption and even more engine problems that are never seen on Toyotas. You can replace the pistons or rebuild the engine or replace with brand new engine or you can try different oil and see how much it lowers oil consumption.
I'll pick up a 2000 model Celica GT tomorrow. They have engine noise at revs. That's why I get it cheap! But I have heard of errors on 1ZZ-FE, for many years. But people say so much strange about this engine, that I have completely lost confidence in all the claims. What was the real reason why Toyota changed a lot of engines? Here in Norway, it was replaced on most Celica 2000-2003 models + Avensis 1.8 + RAV4 2wd 1.8 ... Some say narrow oil channels. The problem of high oil consumption, came after only 1 year, on many cars.
@@Rotary12A I just bought , (well put a large downpayment)....yesterday .... on a 2007 Camry suppose to sign paper work and deliver the rest of the money Friday. Car has 104K ...can I back out of this deal...wasn't their a recall to fix pistons in this 2azfe defective engine?? All I read about is how good this car is and now Im so pissed that i bought a lemon!!!
You need to look closely at the piston rings as well, they may have made minor changes to them that are not obvious. More pressure on the cylinder walls, different angle on the 2nd ring, etc. Who knows?
repairvehicle are you kidding me? Do you know how many problems GM cars have? Don’t even get me started with Chrysler lol, only Toyota with 4 cylinders have issues, their V6, V8s are basically bulletproof.
Thank you for the info, very educational. So what can I do for my 2012 2ARFE with 200,000 miles. Burning oil, all oil interval well-maintained. I thought it was the PCV, valve cover, all good. Use heavier oil now? Thanks!
5k miles is too long interval for synthetic blend oil, it should have been 3k miles or 6 months which ever came first. There is two options available to lower oil consumption. 1. Use of detergent based engine flush before oil change to help dissolve all the carbon build up left by long drain intervals. 2. Use motor oil that has at 6.5% oil evaporation rate or less. NOACK volatility is how oil evaporation rate defined. Not all thick oils have low volatility percentage
This engine flush product I use and recommend and have done video reviews on my channel. Everyone who tried and commented on my channel have said positive things about it. www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753 I will post separate links for motor oil
I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid with this engine and this problem. After changing the PCV valve and hose leading to it with OEM parts, I switched to Signature Series 0W20 from Mobil One 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy formula. These 2 steps reduced the oil burning by more than half. From 250 ml to around 100 ml oil lost after several days of driving . It’s no cure but it’s somewhat under control which is a relief. After struggling to find the Amsoil products I needed at the local farm supply store, I took the plunge and became a preferred customer, I used your number, “ repair vehicle”. I got my first shipment last month. I should’ve done that earlier. Thank you for the information and entertaining videos.
I thought they also replaced the nozzles that spray oil at the underside of the piston. If the piston can run a little cooler, maybe the oil won't cook so much and plug up the oil ring.
interesting show, but you did not confirm that the new design, actually stopped oil burning? If it did - A possible reason could be, that removal of cutouts, forces more volume of scraped oil, through the oil rings & drain holes? This increased flow, would flush & clean those small passages better? New piston ring design, with a bit higher tension & bit stronger, alloy steel, would also help? This is not a visible change.
Exactly the problem you are talking about, piston and faulty rings on it, manufacturer problem, , just want to drive car safely and prevent engine failure
What brand of oil are you using now? What viscosity, 0w-20? How often do you add oil and how much? How often do you change your oil? Are you the original owner?
Acquiring a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT( Toyota Matrix) with a 2.4 liter engine w/ high mileage . Some say to use only synthetic oil and to change it frequently perhaps every 3000 miles. Do you agree? Also what products are good to keep the engine clean, seafoam?
As a bare minimum Synthetic oil is a must. Change intervals depends on oil brand and driving habit. To keep engine clean, this stuff works well, www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753 Don't have any experience with seafoam
hello, is there the same solution for oil consumption in a toyota avensis 2017 with a bmw 2.0 d4d 143hp engine??? It eats about 2 liters per 7000 km. I am waiting for an answer! Thanks in advance!!!
I am so happy I found your channel. I have a 2006 Toyota Camry stick shift. (Manual). It is a dealership baby... only work that has ever been done on my car has been by a Toyota dEalership... even to this day. Well back in 2017 my oil light came on... I kept driving because I knew I was going to get an oil change the next day. I bring my car to the dealership and mention the oil light came on... the mechanic checks and says my oil was bone dry. That is when they tell me I “likely” have a oil consumption issue. My 2006 was outside of the “recall” or whatever they wanted to call it. I have the same engine but the “warranty” was not extended to my year car. I was told to carry more oil. I started doing this but then one day I was driving and started to smell smoke through the AC. I brought that car immediately back to the dealership. I got the valve cover gasket replaced. That fixed the issue for a year or so... or it wasn’t consuming oil like it was. I end up getting a second car since my Toyota just wasn’t reliable... fast forward to this year I hear pinging and knocking in my engine. I turn on the AC and it doesn’t blow out cold. I rake it to the dealer and they tell me my radiator is cracked. They tell me that if I get that replaced on my car it will run a other 100k miles. I get it replaced. This about in March of 2019... just last month my oil light comes back on... I take t to the dealership and they tell me it likely is the “pistons”. I should start getting oil changes every 3k or get a whole new engine. I am at a lost and confused and feel like the dealership has taken my money. Could I start using the Amasoil oil and my car won’t consume as much oil. Will that clean my pistons if they are clogged and dirty. I currently have about 186k miles on it. Thank you for any recommendation you may have.
Thank you for asking. Without knowing what brand of oil you were using and how often you were changing oil, it's very hard to give you right answer. Also, how much Oil consumption did you have? Running engine dry on Oil, driving without Oil has extremely negative effect on the engine. Without knowing other things that I have mentioned above, its highly possible that engine is severely damaged, worn-out due to driving without Oil or low on Oil. Based on the information you have provided, you engine cylinder walls could be scratched and damaged due to low Oil level. To fix cylinder walls damage is requires complete engine rebuild. Can Amsoil oil help with oil consumption, yes it can to some extent. In your case, I don't think. Piston rings possibly damaged from low Oil level, in addition to cylinder walls. There's few options available to you: 1. If car has no rust, you can replace your engine with low mileage used engine. 2. You can get remanufactured engine for third party engine remanufacturing company. 3. You can just keep on driving your Camry and just keep adding Oil. 4. You can try Amsoil and see if it helps, but remember dealer might not put Amsoil oil in your engine, but put something else. They put Amsoil in their own vehicles. Dealers scam people big time. Sometimes you have to watch them doing the work in front of you. Here is the link if you decide to give a try. www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2006/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/us-volume/?zo=5257753
Please i have Toyota Yaris T Sport that has this problem of oil burning, but it doesn't smoke at all and I can only notice black exhaust. Please what is going to be the solution to this. Thanks
Ryan Dauphinee Even if they are the problem can still persist. Most modern cars are having oil burning issues very early stage of life. So if the real cause is addressed then the problem will be solved. Sludge forming is the culprit. So good quality oil, regular oil change, PCV valve, valve cover seals need to be checked. But I have a unique solution for this. By treating the engine I improve the compression, mileage and life of engine. Simultaneously removing old carbon and leaving no room for new carbon or sludge. The process starts with ideal injection of fuel and optimum burning of fuel. Compression sealing and negligible emissions, and end result quiet smooth engine with better mileage and long long engine life extended to 2,00,000 plus miles with least maintenance. Cost is reasonable
I have a theory about the oil consumption issue and what I think the problem is related to timing of the engine. I have a five gas analyzer and when I ran the test I found the nox gas high and the only way to get high nox gas from the engine is the temperature in the cylinders would have to exceed 2300F , causing the oil to cook or coke on the pistons.
Hi Brother, I have venza 2013, 1st cylinder misfire, I change all things, one mechanic said 1st cylinder P0301, he checked 1st leak test and said, need to be change the engine even Toyota dealership more or less same diagenetic. where you located. Thank you
Nope. I had 2011 Camry with 2.5 and changing oil every 10k miles. Zero oil consumption but I was using this Oil www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-0w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASMQT-EA&zo=5257753 I continue to use same oil on my other Toyotas and don't have oil consumption issues. My brother is using same oil on 2.5 Rav 4 and zero oil consumption between oil changes. He changes oil every 10k miles.
Hello! My Gen 2 is burning oil and I want to change out the pistons and rings. Would you suggest this as a solution? I understand that you don't think these redesigned pistons and rings actually do anything. Are there pistons and rings in the aftermarket that you would suggest? Thank you.
what do you have and year? How many miles on it? Original owner? How often do you change your oil? What brand of oil do you use? I am not aware of any aftermarket because I have not looked into this. There might be.
@@repairvehicle 2007 Gen 2 Prius. Reaching 170k. Not original owner unfortunately, there was sludge on the oil cap when I bought it. I change oil with Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic every 5k miles or 8k km along with OEM Toyota filters. I worry because I have signs of oil burning along with my catalytic converter breaking. I am debating rebuilding the engine because I love the Gen 2 platform just not the oil burning.
I was was told the oil passages or holes in the side of the piston where made slightly larger in the revised piston so they wouldn't get stopped up and thus provide adiquit lubrication. The lack of lubrication to the cylinder walls due to the stopped up holes in the piston wears the piston rings resulting in oil consumption.
Using engine flush before oil change can definitely help. Using engine flush very often can help significantly. I use this engine flush and recommend to others www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753
You will be surprised! I have comments from people who had major oil consumption and when they switched to Amsoil it dropped significantly. What do you have?
If you use any high quality full synthetic oil like Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil1, Royal purple, Amsoil, or Redline you should have some good results. I use Castol GTX Magmatec in my tC, and she loves it 😁
The J3.7 also has a problem with camshaft lobe failure. I developed it at 265k miles and had to replace both camshafts and one rocker arm. I'm a retired mechanic and did the work myself. I've used synthetic oil since I bought this MDX with 60k on it, A 2010 I bought in 13. I use the Kevlar timing belt and I've changed to Amsoil 10W-50 in Texas(summer heat) to add film strength and hopefully get another 250k out of it. I've never had this oil consumption problem and don't plan to. Hope it helps.......I've got 277k now,runs like knew.
Its for sure the 07-09 camrys. I have an 08 that eats oil like crazy. I have to add a quart of oil every couple of days. My advice is to avoid those models unless they have fixed already. Other than that issue it's a good car tho.
You missed telling us what the improved pisten would be like or need to be better. Maybe the oil heated up draining down the sides and they figured to only drain out slower and took out the notches. Hard to think they would take out notches to shorten the life of the new pisten.
Hello, i have a 2002 Camry 2AZFE with 190k miles..I drive 3,000 miles per month and use the car to drive for work (city driving) as well as long trips on the weekends. I have done alot of work to it including new water pump, radiator, thermostat, accessory belt + tensioner The issue is it burns about 1 quart every 700 miles or so...im really thinking about selling it and buying a Honda Accord with the K24 engine, since I hea they usually do not have the same oil burning issues. Is there anything else I can do to slow the consumption down besides a rebuild? Its such a shame because this car is so comfortable and drives so nice, it never let me down and I put 100,000 miles on it myself.
How often do you change your oil? What brand of oil are you using? What viscosity oil are using? Are you the original owner? What year honda accord were you thinking about getting?
@@repairvehicle Every 4500 miles I have Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 Full Synth in the car now. Switching to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Full Synth for the lower NOACK % (ive been reading it has far less evaporation) Always used 5w30, may switch to Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 for even lower NOACK % I am the 2nd owner, car has always been well maintained I'm thinking about atleast a 2003 Accord, maybe 2005 but not much newer, i believe these years and older were the most reliable
4500 miles on full synthetic oils, is way too long. 4k miles should be max at highway speed and 3k miles city driving. By the way, full synthetic oils, are not even synthetic. Platinum does not have lowest evaporation rate, it's lower than regular full synthetic pennzoil . When you remove engine oil cap and look inside the engine, if it's clean aluminum parts and no discoloration, then engine was maintained to high standards. If you remove engine oil cap and engine components aluminum have warnish build up stained, it's one neglected engine by the previous owner by following factory recommended intervals. In this case using detergent based engine flush before oil change, might help and using lowest evaporation oil too. There's one more thing that can possibly help, I am going to test it myself before saying it works, I want to make sure no damage to the engine happens. You can keep driving this camry and keep adding cheap full synthetic oil without doing anything I have mentioned. It still cheaper than buying another car.
@@repairvehicle thank you! Follow up question, if you don't mind, what is going to happen if I don't replace the pistons and keep adding oil? Right now it eats about .25 quart of oil every 200-300 miles.
Hi, I am having a problem with my transmission and took it to several specialist and change seals and solenoid. Its a 2azfe engine with a u140f transmission but I'm not shifting into the higher gear unless i reach 4000rpm and take my foot off the gas then it shifts. I am dying to have this resolved. Thank you
Year, make, model, mileage, length of ownership, how often transmission fluid has been changed, has the vehicle been in the accident? I need these details in order to give you an accurate information
Thanks for your early response. It's a 2002 Toyota Alphard that I have sourced from Japan myself. I usually change my transmission fluid every 100000km. The van runs well and all the lower gears shift perfectly but the high gear to take the excitation off the engine at 80km/h doesn't shift unless I exceed 4000rpm and I must remove my foot from the gas the rpm would drop to 1000 the gear shifts and back to 2000rpm . I am using it for more than a year like this. I even took it to a transmission specialist who took it apart but found nothing wrong with the clutches or gears , changed out all the seals and clutches put it back together and it still works the same way.
@shortbosssenauth4635 if mechanical components are good then, the next step is to check solenoid for that gear if it’s malfunctioning. Also, maybe transmission control module is malfunctioning.
OIL burning is a CHRONIC problem in most new trucks/cars suspecting cost cutting and trying to meet the EPA mandates (so burning OIL) is great it gets 2 MPG better... Now that is the GOV Bureaucrats Logic for you....
Oil burning has nothing to do with EPA or cost cutting. It's all comes down to unreasonable expectations from consumers, powerful engines and very fuel efficient. The more power they squeeze from small engines the hotter it runs. Heat does two things, raises temperature of the Oil where is starts to evaporate faster and with heat oil breaks down faster and cause engine wear out and piston Oil rings clogged up.
@@repairvehicle EPA and Gobment in prior regime mandated all sorts of idiotic regulations as well as Diesel emissions. I do agree, weed eater 4 banger and v6 engines with turbos is moronic and a disposable engine at best.
I have a 08 scion tc that is consuming oil. How do i fix this. The local machine shop is charging $2800 to rebuild the short block. Any advice comrade?
What is the mileage and brand of oil are you using? How often do you change your oil? If they are going to rebuild short block, about valve seals, they could be damaged. What is your oil consumption?
@Alex Lungu, switching to a different oil will slow down oil consumption. Rebuilding engine and continue to use low quality oil will be same thing as it's now. There's nothing on the market that will be a substitute for an engine rebuild.
There's many products available, some work well others don't work well. I can give you my recommendation if you want. Also, that code is for the knock sensor, check your knock sensor, it might be loose, damaged, worn-out.
I recommend this product it works, I have not tried other brands. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fuel-additives/gasoline/p-i-performance-improver-gasoline-additive/?code=APICN-EA&zo=5257753
My wife's 2013 honda accord sport burning oil. Honda was doing the Poston rings for free up to 65k miles or 5 years I missed both. Will marvel mystery oil help? I've been watching some videos that it helps. Only have 87k miles on it.
No, because it doesn't work and only makes oil thicker which is will destroy your timing chain and cam phasers. Your only option is to use detergent based engine flush before each oil change and use high detergent oil to dissolve carbon build up. Check my second video from the latest and it give you better idea what I am talking about
After inheriting my mom's rav4, toyota sent the service bulletin about these pistons and high oil consumption and that they would contact me when the parts are available. I was never contacted again and now it is burning excess oil to where the catalytic converter will undoubtedly be affected. Thank you for providing this video. I am convinced that this engine wasn't a design flaw. I suspect this was a planned obsolescence measure. Toyota has lost my trust as well as the trust of millions.
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Thanks for this video. I had my 2007 Camry Hybrid repaired by a Toyota dealer when it was at 75,000 miles. Was consuming about a quart and a half in 1200 miles when they tested it. They were very agreeable to fix the problem. Made it just in time under their miles or years maximum in the factory recall. I now have just over 100,000 miles on the car and it works fine. No mechanical or oil consumption problems. Based on your analysis I might be lucky to get 50000 more miles off the new repair. But water leaks in to the passenger cabin have been a real headache (not the sunroof or A/C drain).
One thing to mention. When I asked the service people at Toyota what specifically needed to be repaired I never got a straight answer!!! Now I now why.
I'd like to add that in the 13 years I've owned the car I never had one electrical problem, including all of the hybrid system.
It's your windshield. My brother had exactly same car and same issue.
It can also be the outside air intake for the fan blower. Under the wipers you'll usually have a grill which underneath has a hole for the air to pass through into the blower which is behind the glove compartment. This is where the outside air comes from when you use the outside air setting on the AC/fan system. This has drain holes below the level of the air hole. If the drain gets clogged with debris over time and if you have a large influx of water or are parked at an incline, it will fill to the level of the air hole and flood in through your blower area, soaking the blower in the process.
How to figure it out?
1: Does it leak only after water is dumped on your car or does it happen even in dry weather? If the former, then pull the AC filter behind the glove compartment as soon as you notice the water and check if it is wet. If yes then it is probably the problem I described.
This is assuming the passenger floorboard is getting wet. If elsewhere like the headliner, it could be the sunroof drain HOSES came loose. This happened to my car and was pooling water in the headliner and also wicking down the A frame and to the floorboard of the passenger side.
I also had the clogged fresh air intake issue. It happened on random nights but not during the heavy rains which were happening at the time. Turned out the exact spot I would often park at had a sprinkler in front which was broken and would dump a strong steady stream of water exactly on the lower windshield which was enough when combined with the debris to cause an overflow into the fresh air intake hole. It coincided with the leaf debris I found on the passenger floor mat from being washed in through the intake.
@@TuxedoBond Thanks for the suggestions
It would be interesting to know if the problem comes back in 50,000 km. 🙂
I think the new piston is actually better.. because there is no cut out for the oil to drain out the oil is forced to go trough the oil ring itself resulting in a cooler ring .. the old design was allowing the oil to jet out of the cut out and not so muck trough the ring .
Correct. In addition, the oil rings were the biggest fault on these engines and on the newer 2ar-fe. The low tension oil rings were getting clogged from lack of maintenance. Pretty much if you didn't do your oil changes at 5k or below you were bound to have this problem.
@@robertjackson7590 from my understanding, all of the J series engines suffer from the same oil burning issues? I'm assuming that they're all running inadequate vacuum.. 🤔
@robertjackson7590 , Oil Catch Can purpose and why catch can don't work, Two reasons why you need Catch can
th-cam.com/video/jWaskpzM_Jc/w-d-xo.html
The service kit includes new oil nozzles, and 3 piece piston rings, along with the new piston. You can't determine if it is fixed by looking only at the piston. However I appreciate that you did compare the two. I also wonder if the piston crown thickness changed. Look at the valve reliefs. Are carbon particles being driven by compression into the ring land area?
The kit does not include the pistons, they are purchased separately once the engine is torn down, and the sizes are determined. There are three sizes, A, B, and C, 90% are B-
Perhaps the deleted oil relief cutouts are designed to create higher pressure through the relief holes, keeping them clear. No doubt there would be a good reason for redesigning.
i was thinking the same thing. The cutouts may have let oil drain away externally too easily, where as you want the oil being forced through the 8x 1/16" inch drainage holes to stop them clogging up. I agree with you - there would be a reason they've decided to get rid of the cut-out drainage.
Toyota should say something about it, they are losing people trust. at less they lost mine.
Toyota still better than anyone else.
Interesting that a big, high quality company like Toyota could make such a big mistake.
I own a popular Kawasaki motorcycle that from new, burned a lot of oil. On road trips I had to carry a quart or two of oil and top it up every time I filled the gas tank. Likely an issue with the piston ring design. The fix came with a performance upgrade I did- I had the cylinder bored out, replaced the piston with an oversized lightweight high performance piston and rings, and solved the oil loss issue. Also got a few more HP and better gas mileage in the process. Maybe $300 all in parts and labor.
Toyota is not using best design, they have better on other engines.
My 2008 Scion tC was repaired by Toyota during the oil consumption campaign. It was a good fix , the TC doesn’t burn oil anymore
A friend had issues with his 1997 Avensis back in 2000,he said something about a piston ring,now i know why.
thx for posting the video. Not sure about the answer yet. Here are some ideas:
1. the new piston top is smooth, instead of bumpy metal. looks like the top has been coated with some sort of teflon material. This may prevent soot from accumulating on the piston. perhaps its blown off and falls down with the blowby to the engine oil; and hopefully then filtered.
2. the blowby has to escape back into the crankcase by the ring-wall gap or the oil control drain holes. by eliminating the notch in the piston, more pressure is forced to the oil drain holes, thereby flushing more oil through them. My guess is this keeps the rings, and springs from gumming up because the oil is flowing more often through the spring-hole route, rather than just sitting there since the blowby pressure is escaping mainly through the notch. You can also see in your old piston severe blackening directly under the notch, indicating a lot of blowby gas has been exiting that way.
what did you do to fix the problem? Did you post a video on your fix? thx again!
Easy fix is to use oil with high evaporation rate
@repairvehicle I have the same issue "oil consumption " in a rav4, what's the right oil to fix that issue?
Thank-you! For educating me on oil going through piston ports as well as the notches.
Thank you, for such a important comparison to the old piston's and the newly redesigned ones. Toyota, getting sneaky, and untruest worthy. I own a Camry, and it was leaking oil but that got fixed by someone like yourself who knew what he was doing. Now I have a jet engine sound and I believe that is my Intake Valve. The Intake manifold was checked and there was no oil leak found or air leak. But the mechanic did not check the Intake valve. So back I go another time. My car has 173,000 plus miles on it, and it runs like new, except for the noise, or the sound of a jet inside my car with windows rolled up. I hear it more and more when I come to stop sign and or turn a curve, or I accelerate up a small hill. I hope to see more of your very well done and clear informative videos. Thank you very much!!!
Your engine noise might not be coming from what you think.
Maybe check wheel bearing, bad wheel bearing will have wind sound when driving over a certain speed
Model
Toyota not sneaky, dishonest!
Would you recommend aftermarket pistons instead of the new Toyota pistons for a rebuild?
Very good question. I don't know if aftermarket is better or worse. I have not compared them, side by side.
NO-
Never seen someone ask that before smart questions lol
Hello, Today i did compression test on my 07 scion tc with 220k miles manufactured in aug/06. I got 170 on the first 2, 173 on third and almost 180 on 4th, I'm thinking it went up as i built compression/lubricated. I also noticed for the first time that my spark plugs had a lot more white fouling more than ever, especially cylinder 1, I changed them about a year ago with toyota oem, I believe i'm losing my oil through pistons/rings due to the plugs condition. I started topping off my oil at around 100k miles and of course has been getting worse through the years, I put in around half a quart every 500 miles and have always changed at 3-4k miles with castrol gtx(recently high mileage). I was already tested with the toyota oil consumption test years ago and they said i didn't fail the test. I always thought that the issue with the 2azfe was the wrong piston rings? Something about them being too small or being a single piece oil ring setup like the one in you're video versus a 3 piece setup like a sandwich with solid ring on top,waffle in the middle and another solid ring on bottom. Thanks for the video, i will continue to watch you're others.
Hhhhhhhuuu
If the gap in the rings rotates to the gap on the piston, you will lose some compression. And maybe some oil will go up to the top or on the walls and be consumed increasing oil consumption. I think that's the reason for deleting the gap.
the ring with a gap is not a compression ring.
this is 100% correct. compression can leak past the oil rings, increasing crankcase pressure causing it to burn oil.
Some problem as late model isuzu suvs.
The 3.5 with direct injection
And some of the later 3.2 engines.
.
I've known a handful of people not any shop that tare in to the engine, clean the little holes. add more holes and reassemble the hole thing, your basically doing an inframe, many hours of work to save one quart per 1,000 or mabe 350 miles in a real bad case.
.
With a isuzu that's mabe worth 3,000 in unusually good condition, it just doesn't pay to have a shop fix it for around 5K~
.
Anyway
Thank you for actually showing the holes are plugged, and the so called upgrade piston is not necessary a good thing.
I can forward this video to several people I know with that toyota engine.
please share this video with others. Thank you
YOUR BEST VIDEO YET, SOME REAL MEAT/INSIDE INFO ON THIS ONE. MAKE GOOD FRIENDS WITH THAT TOYOTA TECH SO YOU CAN GET USED PARTS TO PROVE YOUR POINTS
This vid says nothing.
You just explained why the 2003-2005 burn less oil than then 2006-2011 Toyota engines. Thank you
I have 2001 Toyota Corolla burns a lot oil too.
@@danpan001 how many miles tho
Actually a new piston is a solution to the problem if the car is past %60 of its life. As an example, if the oil burning vehicle has 125,000, then a new piston should be good for another 75,000 miles. But if as Mr. Repairvehicle says the piston wasn't really improved, you wouldn't want to build new cars with it.
Thanks for being honest 🤗
Clogging would occur when some of the combustion gasses that escape past the piston rings deposit carbon. This mixes with the oil and clogs up the oil ring. Perhaps the fix is the removal of the drainage slots which would prevent the oil from draining away and leaving carbon deposits.
With low tension ring gas will pass through, every car since 2019 use low tension and some prior to that
The Coking in the rings indicates using an oil with low flash point and not being changed enough. Need a good Group 4 oil instead of whatever was used. Usually, the coking happens most in the top ring that is exposed to combustion heat the most. Oil rings are more protected from the heat but not the crud. Lots of carbon buildup also. Direct injection engine?
This is port injection. Toyota doesn't have direct injection by itself.
Conventional Oil was used.
toyota have since 2015 moved to fully synthetic 0w20 on all vehicles, which might stop this problem happening
reminds me of an issue with the ford UK pinto engine of the 70's it had cam wear issues, because the oil feed to it blocked due lazy not changing oil and using poor oil, the cheap fix was to put a nitrided cam in (and usually a performance one) but people never twigged the real reason, so the problem is the user and cheap oil, lack of changes, the truth is hard, they cant redesign it, its already a good design
2012 that's when Toyota switched to full synthetic Motor oil.
Maybe people need to let the vehicles warm up a little more (1 minute vs 30 seconds or under) when they first start or not drive as aggressively at the beginning allowing metal tolerances get to operating temperature?
Its combination of many different things.
@@repairvehicle Oh I totally agree, I just think the average owner has horrible habits and definitely doesn't help the situation.
Hi, repairvehicle. Very good analysis and observations from you and several others that see an end to the tunnel. Apologies if this is a bit of a long read. I tend to be wordy when it gets technical!
Clearly TOYO missed the flaws in their original piston. Unfortunately, TOYO is not the only one to have pushed out this faulty design. Saw something similar on another Japanese car maker's pistons. I believe that the elimination of the cutout and what appears now to be a 3 piece Oil Scraper ring. The old ring was bound to accumulate carbon ...with a smaller wire wound around another ring wire. This is all crammed together behind a one piece scraper ring. I read somewhere that this 'wire coil' was also there to give support or put outward pressure behind the one piece oil ring.
Anyhow, I believe I have the oil burning problem and would appreciate any thoughts and insights.
- 2009 Camry XLE, 2.4 Ltr, 2AZ-FE, Automatic. with 117,239 mi. on the ODO
- Just checked the compression across all 4 cyl.
cyl #1: 200 psi, #2: 192, #3: 190, #4: 196 ...new rated at 198 psi with < 14 psi variance
- Bought from a Toyota associated dealer (GM who also owned a TOYO dealership)
- Was still under original warranty for 6 months when I bought it in Feb 2011
- From records I got with the car, there was regular routine scheduled mtce by TOYO dealer.
- After that, I routinely changed oil & filter every 5K miles with 0-20W full syn, either Mobil 1 or Valvoline depending on what was on sale!
- Occasionally had to top up whenever the dipstick went down halfway or more.
- I do recall not having to add any between changes in the early years after I bought it.
In late February, I found the dipstick all the way down. Probably neglected to check it through the winter. Since then I have determined the oil is burning at a rate of 0.4 ltr/500 mi or 0.8 ltr/1000 mi. This is a second car for my wife /myself that we use locally and for longer trips as it is a lot more economical than our Highlander V6 when it is not needed.
So far with research, I am leaning to do a ring/piston fix on board. I do not have an engine lift, but have done this job a couple of times on VWs. The differences are VTTi and tighter specs for the piston wrist pins that need to sized after pulling and measuring the small end of the existing rods. This is inconvenient as I cannot order all the parts until I can confirm the small end of the rods.
Would like to keep the car or resell it later on once it is fixed. I do not believe the various suggestions to de-carbonize (without opening it up) are going to fix this. Its a hit or miss - probably more miss! ...than hit! The problem rings are so buried in the faulty pistons. Even if you get them out, cleaning out carbon on small parts is tough without doing more damage.
To save money it might be OK to simply R&R & clean out the existing pistons and get another 75-100K miles - as it will happen again sooner or later, but for an extra $300-400 plus my labor, fix it right!
Appreciate if you and others on this thread can chime in!
Thanks
That's what dealers were doing to fix oil consumption, replacing pistons and rings. I have not able to find information on compression numbers. Pistons and rings will definitely help, but cylinder walls can be worn out, valve guides could be worn out, valve seals could be worn out too.
Andre D I think I have the solution for you. I have a tried tested and proven solution to solve the problem. No opening no modifications required.
This is a NASA promoted technology for their rocket engines. I have tried it on many vehicles with great results. My own Altima 2004 treat at 2,50,000 kilometers and now at 3,85,000 kilometers and running like brand new.
This will start with cleaning up the engine,compression sealing,and leaving no room for new carbon or sludge. The result will be , more power,more mileage,quiet and smoother engine and long long engine life with almost nil maintenance. Many cars have crossed million kilometers mark and still running like brand new. Cost very reasonable. Contact me and let us treat your car.
@@MrKhabbu Hi Sanjay, What Technology are you offering? Whats involved and where does it get done if its not a DIY? What is the reasonable cost? I am not here often (on TH-cam), so its just a fluke that I saw your comment. Not sure how to connect, but you can reach me directly at "cadmay46 at gmail.com" Thanks
Ask an engine machine shop to make some addtional oil drain holes in the piston. They would know the best areas and sizing.
Aside from the clogged lower ring problem, the main problem is oil getting to the top of the piston into the combustion tube. Getting rid of the cutouts may actually keep the oil down back where it's supposed to be. Ever think about that?
Cutouts??
@@HaNg_ALL_ThE_tRaItOrS_hiGh yes, that space that was milled out of the wall on the lowest ring pocket, that allowed the oil to drain back down but didn't.
Wonder if drilling the ringland drainback holes would help. Maybe even add a few.
@@dave2158 make them bigger or just add some
I think lots of oil gets into cylinders via worn valve stem seals!
I have a Toyota blade with the same issue all I did was change the Rings because there's a new 3 piece oil control ring for it
New ring design makes more sense. Low tension original ring design could lead to excess oil usage. Piston design not relevant, but would be replaced due to cost of dealer labor to clean them properly. Easier to replace pistons when rings are done. Part number should change if piston was different.
I have a 2015 Toyota Venza burning about a qt of oil every 1000 miles, I changed the oil every 5k miles give or take a few miles, I replaced pcv valve but that did not help, my next move is to rebuild the engine with new pistons and rings, and gaskets, do you this this will help?
How many miles were on the car when you bought it? What kind of oil were you using?
How many miles on it now?
Is your engine this clean on the inside
th-cam.com/video/L68MSBhiwAU/w-d-xo.html
@@repairvehicle 71k miles, we serviced it Toyota dealer for the first 30k miles then valvoline after that about we did are oil change as often as could, the engine was dirty on the inside.
I decided to have the engine rebuilt and just got it back from the shop, it’s running great and will be doing my oil changes every 3 to 4 k mile with mobile 1
Sorry to hear that. I have a 2012 Prius C and have been doing 10,000 mile oil changes. It's at 140,000 miles with no burning issues.
@@jerryp2433 , what brand of oil are you using?
@@repairvehicle the engine is prob a different design but I think I've been using mostly mobil1 0W20.
Thank You. Fantastic guy. Clearest & easiest explanation to understand on the internet. You are the REAL automotive teacher. Keep up the good work my friend. We really appreciate it :)
This Toyota oil burning problem is also prevalent in many other models & years as well, because of bad piston/piston ring design. Corolla E120 3ZZFE engine from '01 to '08 usually develops this problem after a few years, for roughly 7 of every 10 vehicles. The only ones that don't are the ones that people 'religiously' maintain regular oil changes (like 2 to 3 times a year). But eventually in the end they will too. Bad piston design can sometimes be 'compensated' for with meticulous oil changes from the beginning. But it only delays the inevitable. Sometimes it can delay it many years though...
The oil burning problem could also be related to the quality of the oil. If the oil lacks additives then it will cause the oil rings to clog up because a poor quality oil that lacks additives will cause oil rings clogged up.
I think that the oil problem is the low tension of the rings and something with the design of the holes in the piston.
@@javirodify I agree about the whole draining too small but also if you don't get the right oil that has enough detergent to keep those holes from clogging up it will be a bigger problem so the drain hole can be a design issue because it's not big enough
As a technician, I can tell you the cars 2.4’s I’ve rebuilt still consume no oil. One has 75k miles since it’s rebuild. It seems Toyota had some issue with those cutouts, I can see no other reason to remove them. And our piston and piston rings are a different or updated part number when we would receive the oil consumption repair kit. No discernible difference in the rings, but I recall comparing pistons on the first one I did and coming to a similar conclusion that it’s just a band aid to get these cars out to 200k miles or so where it’s no longer Toyotas problem.
I bought a 2009 Matrix with the the dreaded 2azfe engine about two months ago. Car has 200k km. Bought it from the original owner who is an older lady that took good care of the care. All oil changes were done at the dealership with 5w20 conventional (I believe they use mobile 1). All oil changes were done at 8000km as recommended by the dealership. I drove the car for about 2000km and I noticed that it consumed about 0.7L per 2000km. I plan on switching to castrol edge synthetic oil 5w20. I can live with this consumption rate if I cam maintain it like this. I also plan to do BG EPR engine flush if it gets worse. There is also small seepage around valve cover gasket, but not significant ...no leakes whatsoever. Car runs good otherwise. I opened the oil filller cap when engine was running and I felt blowby..strong enough to shake the cap when I let it sit loose but no strong enough to blow it away. Do you think switching to synthetic oil is a good idea? Does oil consumption affect performance and fuel economy? Thanks a lot.
Conventional Oil has caused significant damage to the engine, oil consumption, carbon build up, seals damaged and so on. If you switch to synthetic oil, your fuel economy might improve. In general synthetic oils have more detergent than conventional Oils, and because engine is trashed on the inside you might or you might not see Oil leaks around seals because synthetic oil will start cleaning up carbon build from the seals. If the seals damaged and covered with carbon build then it will start leaking through slowly, wetness.
Oil consumption has definitely negative effect on performance, but in your case you might not even feel it.
Thanks for the quick reply. I agree that synthetic is much better, but I don't think the engine is trashed. This engine is notorious with oil oil consumption even fo people who have only used synthetic oil. From what I have seen online, the oil rings are the issue. I don't believe there is oil sludge or carbon buildup anywhere except for garnish around the pistons and rings. I have read pretty good reviews on BG EPR engine flush and that's what I will do. I've heard about many people who had cars with this engine and their cars ran a very long time as long as they keep their oil topped off. I was just wondering if you have experience in getting them cleaned faster.
BG might help little bit but use of low detergent Oil will reverse what will do.
There's nothing on the market that will remove completely carbon build up from the rings. Use of high detergent Oil will help dissolve some carbon build but not everything, it requires piston and rings replacement.
So the oil consumption problem was it only for 2.4 engines? How about the 2.0 engine was it affected as well?
It depends on maintenance and Oil brand
repairvehicle Was it on the V6 Engines, I am looking to buy a 2007 toyota camry SE V6.
Stay subscribed I will be posting video on this topic.
Eliminating what you refer to as the cutout is the fix. The cutout was allowing too much oil to flow upwards towards the rings. The flow was too much for the rings and oil passage ways to effectively drain down. The result was oil going up into the combustion chamber and being burned off. Hence the oil consumption. With the cutout gone there is less oil moving up and less oil being burned or any at all. They did in fact correct the issue.
People still having oil consumption with corrected issues. Oil rings is only partially a problem.
That’s true. Oil getting by the valve cover gasket and into the spark plug chamber is also an issue. The 2.4 has several oil consumption issues.
Great video, this problem has been bugging me because there is no clear description available. I want to clarify something. An engine from Kentucky or Japan could have all B type pistons, or it might have one A type (undersize to match the crank diameter) or it could have a C piston (oversize). 94% of pistons are B type (within tolerance), with very few over or undersized. This must be to save the forged crankshafts where machining was slightly oversize. I thought this defect was caused by the Kentucky pistons, because I cannot get any information about problems in Japan. So maybe its the rings or the angle of the oil drain hole. Finally, as I said below, maybe it is no solution at all.
Mines says from the vin number its Japanese made
OK, so they "redesigned" the piston, and I see they left out the 4 notches. Do they use the exact same Toyota part number oil rings for the new design piston, or did they redesign them too?
You were showing the OLD rings fitting into the slot in the new piston - OK, so the slot is the same size, but did they change the oil ring spacer insides, and make the holes bigger?
Good question, I don't have that info yet.
So, it will be better to clean the old piston and put new rings on them?
Nope. Use new Pistons and rings.
Or u can just make sure u clean the carbon every so often to prevent the issue.... I would not reccomend putting anything in your fuel tank, as that prematurely wears out the fuel pump.
Fuel additives with lubricants will extend the life of your piston, rings and fuel pump.
repairvehicle what type of additives would you recommend?
@@sok3282, it depends what you have and what you trying to achieve.
Hi,
I am experiencing this same issue- 2azfe oil burning.
My question is when changing the pistons and rings do I need to change camshaft and connecting rod or that is not necessary.
You don’t have to change anything else if changing pistons and rings. But job is not for inexperienced
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I've got serious oil control issues on a 2006 RAV4.
my 2014 honda accord was leaking 1qt at 5k miles now 5 1/2 years later add 1qt every 3k miles the oil rings on pistons are bad probably Chinese . Only fix is replace piston rings or keep adding oil or burn engine.
Seems like all Japan cars burn oil im seeing most burn oil especially honda i wouldn't buy another Toyota i mean its not the only reliable brand
You can also bond a lubricant to the metal so that you never lose lubrication. This will prevent damage and it also frees up the rings... which addresses the oil use problem.
🙂
@@issavibez394buy a BMW it burns oil brand new lol.
This all depends on the person performing the repairs. If the cylinders are worn from oil starvation some dealers will toss new pistons in anyways. The issue will go away for a little while and then return once the new rings start to leak again.
What viscosity you actually recommend me on a 09 4cyl camry with 180k miles , I like mobile1 full synthetic. Thank you, great video
Oil consumption?
How often do you change your oil?
@@repairvehicle I just got it, is why I found your channel , tbh I don't know if burns yet. So I want to change the oil this weekend and check every 500miles. Al my cars get synthetic every 4k
Use 0w-20 for best engine protection during Cold and Hot weather.
@@repairvehicle thank you, great channel,👍🏁
Great vedeo. I have 2011 camry.. I use 0w20 synthetic.. And I change oil every 3000 miles... But it still burning the oil? Do u think I have that same problem?
I had 2011 Camry 2.5, I bought it brand new with zero miles. I had that Camry until 50k miles and 5 years. I changed my oil every 10k miles using this Oil and I didn't have to add any Oil between oil changes. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-0w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASMQT-EA&zo=5257753
Your Oil consumption is due to oil brand you are using. Also, it might be clogged up rings if previous owner used cheap Oil at long drain interval.
Toyota's new Piston provides less oil to the cylinder so when the oil control rings get clogged it will burn less oil. Probably less than is spec'd for replacing the engine under warranty. A high quality oil at a 5k interval would resolve this, period.
So there rly is no fix?
Use quality oil and change it more often. Don't follow factory recommend intervals
would putting that piston in a lathe and milling it out for a larger oil ring fix it? maybe drilling the oil holes bigger or adding more holes?
Maybe, if you can find larger oil rings. There might be a fix already, stay subscribed and you going to help reveal the fix.
@@repairvehicle i just subbed. i enjoyed your video
Maybe the cutout was the cause that the oil went up. I have never seen a cut out in other pistons.
Nope, I am working on some very interesting topic that will shock people about oil consumption and how to forget about it. Subscribe video is coming.
Every car brand has cut out in the piston.
@@repairvehicle I think deleting the cutout/relief drain was their attempt at reducing the amount of oil that moves up and around the rings, clogging the oil cleaning ring system. I’d think it would improve.
Nope. More holes less oil being pushed up to combustion chamber
By the way, I did try synthetic Mobil one oil and it was horrible. So I went back to Castrol. Don't know why I switched like that, but am back to using Castrol synthetic. Perhaps when changing the oil with mobile, messed it up some. But oil leak fixed.
Mobil 1 is not quality Oil like it use to be.
Bummer. I just switched to mobil1 from valvoline because it was on special. Maybe ill have to try your recommendation.
@@jbean530 i think all big brand oil like castrol, valvoline, mobil 1 etc... are good, i think scotty kilmer even is like just get whatevers on special
That's why Scotty's engines are trashed on the inside.
My 09 burns 5 liters every month and I don’t even know what to do with it because I can’t sell it like that. The person that sold it to me never told me it was burning oil 😢. What advice do you think I should do to fix it
what do you have and how many miles?
repairvehicle 2009 Toyota Camry and it was burning oil since the mileage was 110,000 miles and is now 146k miles on it
What kind of oil are using? Synthetic?
repairvehicle I use to put in synthetic oil but now I just put the regular oil
Cheap synthetic oil is only 10-15% better than conventional oil. Depending on the condition of vehicle, you can have engine rebuild (replace piston and valve seals) or replace with remanufactured engine and keep driving or you can quality synthetic oil and see how much it can lower oil consumption. How clean is your engine on the inside when you remove engine oil cap? What brand of full synthetic oil were you using? What brand of oil are you using now?
Hey I would think the oil ring holes in piston would be bigger in diameter. Better oil ring design.
Nice tutorial
Thank You.. This video is gold.. Greetings from California.👍
Thank you.
Love the channel and camry 2az and honest mech out there
3rd Generation Prius revised piston and piston ring sets (again, with claim to reduce oil consumption), in model years 2014 and 2015 (per the following table). Would really like to see what the differences are, if you could get examples of the old and new. Thank you!
year piston p/n ring set p/n
2010 13101-37120 13011-37110
2011 13101-37120 13011-37110
2012 13101-37120 13011-37110
2013 13101-37120 13011-37110
2014 13101-37240 13011-37110
2015 13101-37240 13011-37260
yeah, I am considering buying a gen 3 and would like to know how 2015 is compared to other years.
PS - to my previous comment. Toyota has a kit P/N 04005-42128 (no letters on the end), which costs nearly $400 for this job. It has the gaskets and new rings in it. Then you also buy the 4 pistons at about $60 each. So what I'm saying/meaning here is - the new rings come in that kit, and to me, to completely seal this deal, it would be good to know if the rings were modified also. Maybe you friend who gave you those pistons can show you a few new rings?
I already asked him and he said he doesn't have it.
@@repairvehicle Well if he works at Toyota, he most likely will see more of these "smokers" coming in. Maybe you can ask him to save you the next set that he gets?
Wait a minute.....I have to change the suggestion I made in my reply - about asking your friend to save something for you. You don't need him for this. You HAVE the original rings, and you showed them in the video. You also showed you bought a NEW piston. So far so good. Now, all you have to do is get a set of NEW rings, and you'll be able to compare what we are talking about, no? OR....at the very least, ask your friend the next time he has to re-do an oil burner, maybe he could at least take a pictures of the new rings he's gonna use for that job??? The ones that come in that kit. I know that side-by-side comparisons would be better, but if anything significant was changed, I'm thinking it might be seen by a close up pic????
Great vid! I have one of these engines with 148000 miles uses two quarts per 5000 mi. Interesting information so what can you do? The car is in great shape been well taken care of. I was considering letting my mechanic rebuild but I have second thoughts now. I will never buy a Toyota again, they told me that my oil consumption was within their parameters and refused to even try to fix the problem. Total Bull!
If you think Toyota is bad, try gm, ford and fiat, they al have l oil consumption and even more engine problems that are never seen on Toyotas. You can replace the pistons or rebuild the engine or replace with brand new engine or you can try different oil and see how much it lowers oil consumption.
They put a Band-Aid on it. Wonder if you can put an aftermarket racing piston in it?
Watch this video it has answers th-cam.com/video/a_FCr7YktVc/w-d-xo.html
Nice my brother for your lessons 👍
I'll pick up a 2000 model Celica GT tomorrow. They have engine noise at revs. That's why I get it cheap!
But I have heard of errors on 1ZZ-FE, for many years. But people say so much strange about this engine, that I have completely lost confidence in all the claims.
What was the real reason why Toyota changed a lot of engines? Here in Norway, it was replaced on most Celica 2000-2003 models + Avensis 1.8 + RAV4 2wd 1.8 ...
Some say narrow oil channels.
The problem of high oil consumption, came after only 1 year, on many cars.
My 09 Camry was burning oil they did the whole service changed the pistons and everything out for free
Mr. 12A would they do this with Lexus?
@@Luvnap I think so Google it up I think it was for the engine its self so I guess yeah same thing for Lexus
When did you get it done? I have a 2009 Toyota Camry with the 2.4 engine too. Thx.
@@davidnguyen5028 about 8 months ago
@@Rotary12A I just bought , (well put a large downpayment)....yesterday .... on a 2007 Camry suppose to sign paper work and deliver the rest of the money Friday. Car has 104K ...can I back out of this deal...wasn't their a recall to fix pistons in this 2azfe defective engine?? All I read about is how good this car is and now Im so pissed that i bought a lemon!!!
You need to look closely at the piston rings as well, they may have made minor changes to them that are not obvious. More pressure on the cylinder walls, different angle on the 2nd ring, etc. Who knows?
Why are the Japanese selling us this junk ?
Because people asking Japanese companies to build crap like big 3 builds.
My Camry was NOT made in Japan, Kentucky
Lol what do you prefer to own Camry or Impala ?
repairvehicle are you kidding me? Do you know how many problems GM cars have? Don’t even get me started with Chrysler lol, only Toyota with 4 cylinders have issues, their V6, V8s are basically bulletproof.
Thank you for the info, very educational. So what can I do for my 2012 2ARFE with 200,000 miles. Burning oil, all oil interval well-maintained. I thought it was the PCV, valve cover, all good. Use heavier oil now? Thanks!
How often did you change oil? What brand of oil and viscosity did you use
I changed every 5k, at dealership. Then Mobil 1, 0w20 thereafter, again, every 5k.
5k miles is too long interval for synthetic blend oil, it should have been 3k miles or 6 months which ever came first.
There is two options available to lower oil consumption.
1. Use of detergent based engine flush before oil change to help dissolve all the carbon build up left by long drain intervals.
2. Use motor oil that has at 6.5% oil evaporation rate or less. NOACK volatility is how oil evaporation rate defined.
Not all thick oils have low volatility percentage
Ok, thank you for the response but specifically which flush and oil do you recommend?
This engine flush product I use and recommend and have done video reviews on my channel. Everyone who tried and commented on my channel have said positive things about it. www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753
I will post separate links for motor oil
I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid with this engine and this problem. After changing the PCV valve and hose leading to it with OEM parts, I switched to Signature Series 0W20 from Mobil One 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy formula. These 2 steps reduced the oil burning by more than half. From 250 ml to around 100 ml oil lost after several days of driving . It’s no cure but it’s somewhat under control which is a relief. After struggling to find the Amsoil products I needed at the local farm supply store, I took the plunge and became a preferred customer, I used your number, “ repair vehicle”. I got my first shipment last month. I should’ve done that earlier. Thank you for the information and entertaining videos.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
have you tried Pennzoil Ultra platinum?
I thought they also replaced the nozzles that spray oil at the underside of the piston. If the piston can run a little cooler, maybe the oil won't cook so much and plug up the oil ring.
Nope
it's true, the service bulletin for the 1NR-FE engine includes changing oil nozzles.
It's because they are clogged up
interesting show, but you did not confirm that the new design, actually stopped oil burning?
If it did - A possible reason could be, that removal of cutouts, forces more volume of scraped oil, through the oil rings & drain holes? This increased flow, would flush & clean those small passages better?
New piston ring design, with a bit higher tension & bit stronger, alloy steel, would also help? This is not a visible change.
Working on another video with details, don't forget to subscribe.
Exactly the problem you are talking about, piston and faulty rings on it, manufacturer problem, , just want to drive car safely and prevent engine failure
You have oil consumption?
repairvehicle yes yes yes. Lucas oil stop or Lucas stabilizer. What is better in my case?
What brand of oil are you using now?
What viscosity, 0w-20?
How often do you add oil and how much?
How often do you change your oil?
Are you the original owner?
Acquiring a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT( Toyota Matrix) with a 2.4 liter engine w/ high mileage . Some say to use only synthetic oil and to change it frequently perhaps every 3000 miles. Do you agree? Also what products are good to keep the engine clean, seafoam?
As a bare minimum Synthetic oil is a must. Change intervals depends on oil brand and driving habit. To keep engine clean, this stuff works well, www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753
Don't have any experience with seafoam
@@repairvehicle thank you!
hello, is there the same solution for oil consumption in a toyota avensis 2017 with a bmw 2.0 d4d 143hp engine??? It eats about 2 liters per 7000 km. I am waiting for an answer! Thanks in advance!!!
Yes same solution
I am so happy I found your channel. I have a 2006 Toyota Camry stick shift. (Manual). It is a dealership baby... only work that has ever been done on my car has been by a Toyota dEalership... even to this day. Well back in 2017 my oil light came on... I kept driving because I knew I was going to get an oil change the next day. I bring my car to the dealership and mention the oil light came on... the mechanic checks and says my oil was bone dry. That is when they tell me I “likely” have a oil consumption issue. My 2006 was outside of the “recall” or whatever they wanted to call it. I have the same engine but the “warranty” was not extended to my year car. I was told to carry more oil. I started doing this but then one day I was driving and started to smell smoke through the AC. I brought that car immediately back to the dealership. I got the valve cover gasket replaced. That fixed the issue for a year or so... or it wasn’t consuming oil like it was. I end up getting a second car since my Toyota just wasn’t reliable... fast forward to this year I hear pinging and knocking in my engine. I turn on the AC and it doesn’t blow out cold. I rake it to the dealer and they tell me my radiator is cracked. They tell me that if I get that replaced on my car it will run a other 100k miles. I get it replaced. This about in March of 2019... just last month my oil light comes back on... I take t to the dealership and they tell me it likely is the “pistons”. I should start getting oil changes every 3k or get a whole new engine. I am at a lost and confused and feel like the dealership has taken my money. Could I start using the Amasoil oil and my car won’t consume as much oil. Will that clean my pistons if they are clogged and dirty. I currently have about 186k miles on it. Thank you for any recommendation you may have.
Thank you for asking. Without knowing what brand of oil you were using and how often you were changing oil, it's very hard to give you right answer. Also, how much Oil consumption did you have? Running engine dry on Oil, driving without Oil has extremely negative effect on the engine. Without knowing other things that I have mentioned above, its highly possible that engine is severely damaged, worn-out due to driving without Oil or low on Oil. Based on the information you have provided, you engine cylinder walls could be scratched and damaged due to low Oil level. To fix cylinder walls damage is requires complete engine rebuild. Can Amsoil oil help with oil consumption, yes it can to some extent. In your case, I don't think. Piston rings possibly damaged from low Oil level, in addition to cylinder walls. There's few options available to you:
1. If car has no rust, you can replace your engine with low mileage used engine.
2. You can get remanufactured engine for third party engine remanufacturing company.
3. You can just keep on driving your Camry and just keep adding Oil.
4. You can try Amsoil and see if it helps, but remember dealer might not put Amsoil oil in your engine, but put something else. They put Amsoil in their own vehicles. Dealers scam people big time.
Sometimes you have to watch them doing the work in front of you.
Here is the link if you decide to give a try. www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2006/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/us-volume/?zo=5257753
Please i have Toyota Yaris T Sport that has this problem of oil burning, but it doesn't smoke at all and I can only notice black exhaust. Please what is going to be the solution to this. Thanks
I changed almost four different oil and even synthetic oil don't work.
What is the mileage on the car?
How often oil was replaced?
What brand of oil?
What was the mileage when bought the car?
Do oil rings exist with larger holes/larger pass through clearance? If so, do you believe that would solve the issue?
Stay subscribed and I will be posting information that you going to help reveal.
Ryan Dauphinee Even if they are the problem can still persist. Most modern cars are having oil burning issues very early stage of life. So if the real cause is addressed then the problem will be solved. Sludge forming is the culprit. So good quality oil, regular oil change, PCV valve, valve cover seals need to be checked.
But I have a unique solution for this. By treating the engine I improve the compression, mileage and life of engine. Simultaneously removing old carbon and leaving no room for new carbon or sludge. The process starts with ideal injection of fuel and optimum burning of fuel. Compression sealing and negligible emissions, and end result quiet smooth engine with better mileage and long long engine life extended to 2,00,000 plus miles with least maintenance. Cost is reasonable
I have a theory about the oil consumption issue and what I think the problem is related to timing of the engine. I have a five gas analyzer and when I ran the test I found the nox gas high and the only way to get high nox gas from the engine is the temperature in the cylinders would have to exceed 2300F , causing the oil to cook or coke on the pistons.
It doesn't take much temperature for cheap Oil to cook.
Hi Brother, I have venza 2013, 1st cylinder misfire, I change all things, one mechanic said 1st cylinder P0301, he checked 1st leak test and said, need to be change the engine even Toyota dealership more or less same diagenetic. where you located. Thank you
what is the mileage? when is the last time spark plugs replaced?
@@repairvehicle i believe its rollback meter reading.
Right now 180300.
With rollback 300000
Original owner?
@@repairvehicle yes I'm the owner
For how long you had this car?
I have a 2013 Camry with 400000kms, do you recommend me to replace the piston?
Also because of this my car overheats
It depends, how often you were changing oil and brand of oil. Your car overheats because of water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant to old.
My 2012 Camry 2.5L also burns more oil then normal. Using 0w20 synthetic Toyota does the service. Do the 2.5s also have piston ring issues???
Nope. I had 2011 Camry with 2.5 and changing oil every 10k miles. Zero oil consumption but I was using this Oil www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-0w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASMQT-EA&zo=5257753 I continue to use same oil on my other Toyotas and don't have oil consumption issues. My brother is using same oil on 2.5 Rav 4 and zero oil consumption between oil changes. He changes oil every 10k miles.
@@repairvehicle would u recommend for 2.4L for the 07 camry
I recommend amsoil www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2007/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
I have a 08 Scion tC and unfortunately the motor has blown because of this issue. Only had 136,000 miles. Do you think Toyota will cover it?
Toyota does not cover lack of maintenance.
motor has blown not because of the oil consumption its because it was not maintained properly.
Hello! My Gen 2 is burning oil and I want to change out the pistons and rings. Would you suggest this as a solution? I understand that you don't think these redesigned pistons and rings actually do anything. Are there pistons and rings in the aftermarket that you would suggest? Thank you.
what do you have and year?
How many miles on it?
Original owner?
How often do you change your oil?
What brand of oil do you use?
I am not aware of any aftermarket because I have not looked into this. There might be.
@@repairvehicle 2007 Gen 2 Prius. Reaching 170k. Not original owner unfortunately, there was sludge on the oil cap when I bought it. I change oil with Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic every 5k miles or 8k km along with OEM Toyota filters. I worry because I have signs of oil burning along with my catalytic converter breaking. I am debating rebuilding the engine because I love the Gen 2 platform just not the oil burning.
@bigsteppa298 , there are companies that make custom piston rings, if you search just as I stated you will get results on google
Hello.Im thinking about a 2016 RAV4 2 litre diesel.Do these burn oil?
i don't know. we don't have them here.
@@repairvehicle ok thanks man.
I read somewhere the holes are bigger in the new design piston?
Nope, working on the video
I was was told the oil passages or holes in the side of the piston where made slightly larger in the revised piston so they wouldn't get stopped up and thus provide adiquit lubrication. The lack of lubrication to the cylinder walls due to the stopped up holes in the piston wears the piston rings resulting in oil consumption.
Holes are exactly same size.
repairvehicle Thanks for the info👍!
My 1993 corolla with 410,000 miles on it burns a quart about every 600-700 miles.
My xB scion 2009 burn oil, how can I fix or need to replace the engine?
mileage on the car?
Oil type full synthetic?
how much oil is being burned?
Oil viscosity?
how often oil changed?
Since when oil consumption started?
180,00
mobile 1 full synthetic
every 4k oil change
After 3 days burns oil 1/4
How many miles were on the car when it started burning oil?
since 2014 or 2015
Can engine flush get the gunk off the oil rings and open drain holes, or will it harm the engine?
it depends how its being used.
@@repairvehicle what brand of engine flush do you recommend?
Using engine flush before oil change can definitely help. Using engine flush very often can help significantly. I use this engine flush and recommend to others www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle thank you
You are welcome
Is quality oil like amsoil able to overcome this bad piston and ring design?
You will be surprised! I have comments from people who had major oil consumption and when they switched to Amsoil it dropped significantly. What do you have?
Watch this video, people share their story about Amsoil th-cam.com/video/XYyGS_U13II/w-d-xo.html
If you use any high quality full synthetic oil like Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil1, Royal purple, Amsoil, or Redline you should have some good results. I use Castol GTX Magmatec in my tC, and she loves it 😁
The J3.7 also has a problem with camshaft lobe failure. I developed it at 265k miles and had to replace both camshafts and one rocker arm. I'm a retired mechanic and did the work myself. I've used synthetic oil since I bought this MDX with 60k on it, A 2010 I bought in 13. I use the Kevlar timing belt and I've changed to Amsoil 10W-50 in Texas(summer heat) to add film strength and hopefully get another 250k out of it.
I've never had this oil consumption problem and don't plan to.
Hope it helps.......I've got 277k now,runs like knew.
@@repairvehicle I didn't see that you replied but I have a 2011 Acura TSX with 87,xxx miles. Burns about 1 quart every 1000x miles
Do you know what year Toyota fixed this issue? I'd like to know so I can shop for cars in the years after Toyota made the fix. Thanks!
I will be uploading video on this subject soon.
@@repairvehicle Awesome, thanks so much!
2006 onwards here in the UK
Its for sure the 07-09 camrys. I have an 08 that eats oil like crazy. I have to add a quart of oil every couple of days. My advice is to avoid those models unless they have fixed already. Other than that issue it's a good car tho.
Problem is not with these models. Video is coming soon
Do you know if Honda's fix for the k24 (8th gen accord) was similar to Toyota?
Don't know, yet.
The GM 2.4 EcoTec with GDI is another oil burner.
What to do with my Toyota prius 2007 seems to be burning oil rather quickly???
Mileage?
Same here. 160k miles. Please help!
What brand of oil are you using and how often do you change?
@@repairvehicle 150k
What brand of oil are using and how often do you change?
You missed telling us what the improved pisten would be like or need to be better. Maybe the oil heated up draining down the sides and they figured to only drain out slower and took out the notches. Hard to think they would take out notches to shorten the life of the new pisten.
Video is in progress and should be out soon
Hi mate. I am thinking of buying used avensis Li 2.4 wagon year 2007 here in NZ. Do you think this car is free if this issue?
Be very careful about buying this car, watch this video
th-cam.com/video/3SQdzY9FDPI/w-d-xo.html
Wondering if Marvel Mystery Oil can help reduce this oil consumption issues ???
What does marvel mystery website says?
Every brand of oil states not use oil additives
Also, owners manual states not use oil additives. I wonder why?
Check the angle of the oil holes to see if they created more of a downwards towards the inner side of the piston for a much better drain off.
No angle.
The new piston rings for the new piston has higher tension, than the old one, that prevents carbon from clogging.
Cars with higher tension rings don’t have carbon buildup issues? False statement
I’m looking at buying 2007 Scion Tc with this engine, should I worry about this the car only has 91000 miles and is a great deal
Watch this video, it will answer some of your questions and I will get back to you th-cam.com/video/3SQdzY9FDPI/w-d-xo.html
Maybe, if not maintained.
Hello, i have a 2002 Camry 2AZFE with 190k miles..I drive 3,000 miles per month and use the car to drive for work (city driving) as well as long trips on the weekends.
I have done alot of work to it including new water pump, radiator, thermostat, accessory belt + tensioner
The issue is it burns about 1 quart every 700 miles or so...im really thinking about selling it and buying a Honda Accord with the K24 engine, since I hea they usually do not have the same oil burning issues. Is there anything else I can do to slow the consumption down besides a rebuild? Its such a shame because this car is so comfortable and drives so nice, it never let me down and I put 100,000 miles on it myself.
How often do you change your oil?
What brand of oil are you using?
What viscosity oil are using?
Are you the original owner?
What year honda accord were you thinking about getting?
@@repairvehicle
Every 4500 miles
I have Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 Full Synth in the car now. Switching to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Full Synth for the lower NOACK % (ive been reading it has far less evaporation)
Always used 5w30, may switch to Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 for even lower NOACK %
I am the 2nd owner, car has always been well maintained
I'm thinking about atleast a 2003 Accord, maybe 2005 but not much newer, i believe these years and older were the most reliable
4500 miles on full synthetic oils, is way too long. 4k miles should be max at highway speed and 3k miles city driving. By the way, full synthetic oils, are not even synthetic.
Platinum does not have lowest evaporation rate, it's lower than regular full synthetic pennzoil .
When you remove engine oil cap and look inside the engine, if it's clean aluminum parts and no discoloration, then engine was maintained to high standards.
If you remove engine oil cap and engine components aluminum have warnish build up stained, it's one neglected engine by the previous owner by following factory recommended intervals. In this case using detergent based engine flush before oil change, might help and using lowest evaporation oil too.
There's one more thing that can possibly help, I am going to test it myself before saying it works, I want to make sure no damage to the engine happens.
You can keep driving this camry and keep adding cheap full synthetic oil without doing anything I have mentioned. It still cheaper than buying another car.
Hi! Great video, thank you! Question, so do you suggest to replace pistons with the original design or a new design without the cutout? Thank you!
You can only get one design
@@repairvehicle thank you! Follow up question, if you don't mind, what is going to happen if I don't replace the pistons and keep adding oil? Right now it eats about .25 quart of oil every 200-300 miles.
@@dposynko1 , what do you have and mileage? What brand and viscosity of oil do you use?
@@repairvehicle it's 2009 camry with 165k miles, using 10-30 oil full synthetic
I use Castrol or other usual brands. Lately,I've been using generic Amazon brand.
Hi, I am having a problem with my transmission and took it to several specialist and change seals and solenoid. Its a 2azfe engine with a u140f transmission but I'm not shifting into the higher gear unless i reach 4000rpm and take my foot off the gas then it shifts. I am dying to have this resolved. Thank you
Year, make, model, mileage, length of ownership, how often transmission fluid has been changed, has the vehicle been in the accident? I need these details in order to give you an accurate information
Thanks for your early response.
It's a 2002 Toyota Alphard that I have sourced from Japan myself. I usually change my transmission fluid every 100000km. The van runs well and all the lower gears shift perfectly but the high gear to take the excitation off the engine at 80km/h doesn't shift unless I exceed 4000rpm and I must remove my foot from the gas the rpm would drop to 1000 the gear shifts and back to 2000rpm . I am using it for more than a year like this. I even took it to a transmission specialist who took it apart but found nothing wrong with the clutches or gears , changed out all the seals and clutches put it back together and it still works the same way.
@shortbosssenauth4635 if mechanical components are good then, the next step is to check solenoid for that gear if it’s malfunctioning. Also, maybe transmission control module is malfunctioning.
Does this affect the 2009 Toyota Estima 2.4 from Japan too? i can only find information on North American cars with 2.4
Don't know
@@repairvehicle thankyou. So is it any 2.4 across the world or just north america?
Probably across the world.
@@repairvehicle Thankyou. This is so annoying. I just bought a 2009 estima with that motor. I didnt even know. What year did they fix it?
Very good question. I don't know. Stay subscribed more information about it coming.
OIL burning is a CHRONIC problem in most new trucks/cars suspecting cost cutting and trying to meet the EPA mandates (so burning OIL) is great it gets 2 MPG better... Now that is the GOV Bureaucrats Logic for you....
Oil burning has nothing to do with EPA or cost cutting. It's all comes down to unreasonable expectations from consumers, powerful engines and very fuel efficient. The more power they squeeze from small engines the hotter it runs. Heat does two things, raises temperature of the Oil where is starts to evaporate faster and with heat oil breaks down faster and cause engine wear out and piston Oil rings clogged up.
@@repairvehicle EPA and Gobment in prior regime mandated all sorts of idiotic regulations as well as Diesel emissions. I do agree, weed eater 4 banger and v6 engines with turbos is moronic and a disposable engine at best.
I have a 08 scion tc that is consuming oil. How do i fix this. The local machine shop is charging $2800 to rebuild the short block. Any advice comrade?
What is the mileage and brand of oil are you using? How often do you change your oil? If they are going to rebuild short block, about valve seals, they could be damaged. What is your oil consumption?
@@repairvehicle car has 159k but new engine has around 80k. Got it from the seller like this and he said it was using like quarter quart every month.
@Alex Lungu, switching to a different oil will slow down oil consumption. Rebuilding engine and continue to use low quality oil will be same thing as it's now. There's nothing on the market that will be a substitute for an engine rebuild.
Fantastic detailed video mate. How do u suggest the engine be rebuilt do tell. And what oil if at moment i a m using 10w-30. I Will follow your advice
What do you have and year
What's the best way to decarbonize the pistons for an 01 camry? Keeps throwing a p code 0330!
There's many products available, some work well others don't work well. I can give you my recommendation if you want. Also, that code is for the knock sensor, check your knock sensor, it might be loose, damaged, worn-out.
@@repairvehicle so what products to decarb do you recomend I heard water works great but I haven't tried it.
I recommend this product it works, I have not tried other brands. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fuel-additives/gasoline/p-i-performance-improver-gasoline-additive/?code=APICN-EA&zo=5257753
How can be fixed this problem then, if the new pistons are worst than the original ?
Good question. Subscribe to my channel to learn about it. Videos coming up soon.
I read somewhere that the oil rings are different from the original instead of one piece design it’s now 3 piece design.
So, you're saying it's the ring design that's changed in the new pistons that fixes the high oil consumption, not necessarily the piston design?
Rings is the same design
My wife's 2013 honda accord sport burning oil. Honda was doing the Poston rings for free up to 65k miles or 5 years I missed both. Will marvel mystery oil help? I've been watching some videos that it helps. Only have 87k miles on it.
No, because it doesn't work and only makes oil thicker which is will destroy your timing chain and cam phasers. Your only option is to use detergent based engine flush before each oil change and use high detergent oil to dissolve carbon build up. Check my second video from the latest and it give you better idea what I am talking about
👍👍
Thank you for the video. Do you happen to know if there is an aftermarket solution?
I have not looked into that yet.
After inheriting my mom's rav4, toyota sent the service bulletin about these pistons and high oil consumption and that they would contact me when the parts are available.
I was never contacted again and now it is burning excess oil to where the catalytic converter will undoubtedly be affected.
Thank you for providing this video. I am convinced that this engine wasn't a design flaw. I suspect this was a planned obsolescence measure. Toyota has lost my trust as well as the trust of millions.
If you think Toyota is bad other brands have same issues and more.
Watch this video, it will help you lower oil consumption th-cam.com/video/a_FCr7YktVc/w-d-xo.html