AVOID the ONE MISTAKE Almost EVERYONE Makes With A Brand New Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- Do you own a new car? Just changing your motor oil after the first 500 miles makes a huge difference in the amount of wear that occurs during that break-in period, which extends the life of the engine. Not changing the oil early is a mistake almost every one makes.
Not only does this video reveal the steps to take to extend engine life, it also shows the proof. Using oil analysis reports from my own car, I will show you how this simple hack reduces wear in new engines.
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For more information on oil analysis, check out: www.speediagnostix.com
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Who is the @themotoroilgeek? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals.
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#newcar #engine #motoroil #oilchange #syntheticoil - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Here's the link to see the results from the 2nd oil change: th-cam.com/video/X4424Q5lLR8/w-d-xo.html
I would be more concerned about the transmission lasting the life of the car than worrying about the engine. Was the trans fluid changed at 500?
Also this data only shows bedding in taking place, how do you know removing the oil early hasn't adversely affected the bedding in process by removing wear particles that may assist in the bedding in.
Although I suspect no difference in useful engine life by doing this, if it did make a positive difference who is benefiting? The 4th owner? The scrap yard selling the engine?
More likely the rubber seals in the engine fail or that is out of date and replacing with an ev or new car makes more sense before the engine wears out if maintained correctly
Lastly I wouldn't want to risk affecting the warranty of the car by changing the oil oneself.
Just following the manufacturers schedule seems the best course of action.
@AK-pu2gm - I agree with you. Some manufacturers such as Honda and Ford provide guidance to their dealer network to NOT change the FF early on some models. They claim the asperities in the oil actually help accelerate the bedding process.
If you live where there is no snow the 0W16 oil will work fine, as the engine oil with 0W8 is really for cold climates, and for fuel economy, as the engine is not really much changed for the last decade, where it was fine to use 10W30 oil, but the lighter oil relates to a slightly better fuel economy in testing.
@@Godspeed931from the first video, the used oil analysis of the 0W8 FF vs the virgin oil analysis of the 0w16 looked basically identical. not sure there's anything special about the initial FF
@@AK-pu2gm I make my living machining and building engines and transmissions and I've been doing that since the late '70s. The fact is the only thing that needs to bed in is the rings and with today's prelapped rings and modern honing techniques that happens in the first few full-throttle accelerations. The piston ring manufacturer's recommended procedure to seat the rings on a new engine is to warm them up at a then do a few light load accelerations then 3-5 full throttle accelerations each time closing the throttle abruptly to scavenge the cylinder walls clean. That's what we do on the dyno and with engines that didn't see the dyno.
After the break in we drop the pan to check the bearings if everything is ok we put in new oil and send it. The fact is every engine shop in the entire world will tell you to change the oil after the first 50 miles or less because that is when the engine sheds huge amounts of large particles that will damage the surfaces. That has been scientifically proven to occur.
For maximum engine life on new cars, I recommend you change the oil and filter before the first 50 miles and then again at 500.
I worked as a mechanic for over 40 years and always offered a free oil change after the first 500 miles on all rebuilds. My personal opinion is it is crazy to go 10k miles on break in oil
My Dad taught me that oil is cheap but engines are expensive. That advice has always served me well.
Great point!
You can pick up an engine for $800, which is what a lot of idiots on this thread seem to spend on oil every year by changing it every 1000 miles 🤣 10k is perfectly fine.
well not so cheap any more. the price of 5 liters of oil is now north of 60$ in nazi europe.
@@motleydude73yeah and that new engine is guaranteed to be good and the work to install it is free /s
@@artemzhirkov3295 They often do come with a warranty for a certain time, and install can be done in a few hours, but needing a new engine is extremely rare. You really have to neglect it badly for a long time. Or it has inherent design faults like Hyundai and Kia do.
10k oil changes are just a gimmick the manufacturer uses to advertise a lower cost of ownership
Dig ding ding!
Ding ding ding!
After seeing the inside after just about every GM car in my area from the early 20 teens, none of my oil will ever see more than 5k. That's using Amsoil too.
the 10k oil changes are to satisfy the EPA environmental requirements. nothing more nothing less. if you follow the recommended oil changes from the manufacturer you are damaging your engine.
I’m a dealership Mopar parts guy. I’ve been telling customers to ignore that oil change meter for years. After break in normal use I tell customers 5-6k max with synthetic, 3k for spirited or harder use. Change after racing or hard core use like heavy towing.
People really need to still treat their cars lightly during the first 500 miles. Especially performance cars. Dodge actually put it in the manual.
My uncle, a lifelong mechanic beginning in World War I, taught me to change the oil in 500-1000 miles. Break-in change was standard 100 years ago. I’ve followed this advice with all of my new cars. I’ve never had an oil related engine problem.
Right on!
Yea, engines and oils have improved somewhat since 100 years ago 🤣 No break in change is needed these days. I do first change at 10k. Never had oil related problems either. Why on earth would I?
I've drank a bottle of jack daniels with the first oil change in every car I've had. I've never had an engine oil related problem. I think the evidence speaks for itself. :p
@@motleydude73 How long have you kept your cars doing oil change intervals like that?
@@piperpilot26 About 6 years on average. Current one for 13 years which I bought new in 2010. Been driving since 1989. Back then the normal interval was 6k when mineral oil was the main type.
No one has ever dressed so classy to change oil. Keep up the great videos!
LOL, Thanks!
My wife would skin me alive!
I think he should have worn a tux while changing the oil.
yeah no matter how hard i try with lining up the drain pan,, there's always at least a few little splatters here and there.. I don't think in the perhaps hundred maybe even 200 oil changes i've done, there's not been at least a few splatters either on my clothes (always in garage rags) or on the floor.
hahahahaha!
If you cange your own oil, one of the most overlooked places for contamination is the new filter threads. Next time you change your oil, take a clean towel and wipe out the threads in the new oil filter. I have found many iron flakes and shards in the threads of all brands of oil filters.
Excellent comment! Great advice! 👍
the last mobil 1 filter I bought had a few huge metal splinters in those threads. scary
Don't have to worry about that with Mercedes-Benz and chrystler
Great advice. Thank you sir.
Yup - literally changed my oil 10 minutes ago and this is true
Oil does drain easier when warm but the idea that you have to drain right after operating the engine is a myth. Oil is not circulated in the pan, in drains down from the block and most designs have the pick up tube opposite the drain plug. So contaminates are collecting in the area of the drain plug where the oil is less disturbed than in the area of the pickup tube. As oil is drained from this area, it picks up the contaminates and they are flushed out the drain. Of course, most contaminates are captured in the filter.
Pouring in a qt. of clean oil with the drain plug removed is a complete waste and you are only flushing the drain holes in the top end and are doing nothing for the oil passages that actually provide oil to the critical parts from the pickup tube.
While it is not true for all manufacturers, some use a specific "break in" oil blend. So if you are changing your oil too soon, you are replacing that specific oil with an oil without those properties.
Manufacturers do not use the very best oil or filters in new vehicles or as OEM parts. Concerning engine lubrication the simple answer is use a very high quality oil and filter and change every 5,000 miles or no more than yearly.
If you are using OEM oil and filters, you are NOT using the best. Since manufacturing is ever changing, the best oil and filters are also ever changing. What is the best today may not be the best tomorrow and there are many videos exploring those differences. Example: Mobile 1 was at one time the best oil but those days have long passed. While it is a good oil, it is far from the best today.
I did my first Honda oil change at 10k. Iron was 29 (vs your 13), aluminum was 19 (vs your 13), and copper was 13 (vs your 40). So two out of three were worse, but not astronomically, and I’m not worried.
and realistically, the engine is going to outlast the rest of the car. Spending that much on changing the oil just doesnt make sense unless your an oil enthusiast and want to see whats going on with the wear.
Not huge numbers but you ran those numbers for 10k miles.
If oil is breaking your bank account you shouldn't have bought the car.
It's really nice to see the impact of the early oil changes quantified for once!
I'm glad this was helpful.
They started having oil burning issues at 100 k plus AFTER they started the 10 k OCI..Forrest Gump is smarter.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing this. I have a question concerning oil in my CTS V. I get the oil changed at the dealership and they use the same Dexos 5w30 that is used in all the other GM cars. But I am concerned that with the high performance engine / heat that the supercharger might be producing if there might be a better choice for this engine. What about the oil that remains in the supercharger when the engine is cut off after driving. I’m just driving normally most of the time, nothing crazy or extreme. Thank you !
Charles Rhea MD
@@charlesrhea6810 Turbos produce a lot of heat, but superchargers shouldn't, they are using power from the belt, not from the exhaust gases, and have a heat exchanger as well.
Nothing new here. I heard all of this 55 years ago when I started working on cars.
As a 43 year retired mechanic I can attest to the accuracy of the information in this video. This guy is spot on!
As a mechanic for 32 years I can attest he's talking nonsense. Absolute joke. Just telling people to waste their money and perfectly good oil. Funny how cars that have only ever been serviced as per manufacturers recommendations run perfectly fine for many decades and hundreds of thousands of miles.
Thanks for sharing your many years of experience opinion. I've been with my current employer for 40 years now, and I know for a fact there is no replacement for experience. I'm gonna change the oil on my new car next weekend. Cheers
@@deanb3033 Unless it's done 10k miles you're just wasting good oil and money.
@@motleydude73 have you been an idiot for all the 32 years or just recently, this video literally shows proof and you think it's wrong? Good job
@@motleydude73so you believe all break in materials are caught in the filter, and there’s in fact no way said materials are sustained in the oil? That’s the purpose of the video- showing proof with the analysis and giving unbiased education. I guess the only discussion would be do those materials matter if left til 10k miles….
Well done. Clear, concise and informative without any unnecessary content.
I was raised in Jackson, Mississippi and am now 72 years old. I have lived in Colorado for over 40 years, but I do remember your father. The older brother of one of my good friends knew Lake Speed. My undergraduate study was Chemical Engineering at Mississippi State University. BTW, I ended up attending medical school at the University of Mississippi Medical School. Unfortunately, I don't remember much chemical engineering these days, but I have many fond memories of those days. Thank you for your academic and accurate information. As I'm sure you know, it's not so easy to know who is telling the "truth" these days!
It's pretty easy to know when the seller of a product says to maintain it less...
I just left UMMC - faculty surgery - research division - 3 years ago after going back to MS after 13 years in MO. Small world.
10k mile oil change interval so customers can keep buying new cars every 100k miles 😆 🤣 😂 😬.
LOL!
A lot of manufacturers in Europe are now specifying over 20,000 miles. That concerns me. Austin Rover were specifying 12,000 miles or 1 year back in 1980 on the Austin Metro, a vehicle with the old BMC A-Series and a gearbox inside the engine oil sump and sharing the engine oil. It's utter madness here, and has been for some time!
@@cameronwood1994 Agreed!
They last far longer than that. 200, 300,000. 400,000 miles all going by manufacturers recommendations. See them every day. Mines done 170,000 miles 14 years old, only ever had 10k mile changes from new it's perfectly fine. PCV is clean as whistle.
@@motleydude73 are you a mechanic?
This reminded me that I need to change oil in my daily. I don't have good access to oil tests here in Europe and I drive a lot on dusty gravel so I try to stay on top of oil and air filter changes.
Thanks for all the great information. 👍
Thanks for the info!
Today I changed the oil & filter on my new car just before hitting 500 miles.
So much misinformation out there. This was super helpful to add to my case. I just got a new car and every single person told me I didn't need to change the oil but in my case the manufacturer gave a specific mileage where they consider break in to be done. I will be changing the oil right at that point. Science is a hell of a thing! Great video!
Thanks! I'm glad it helped!
I just bought a 23’ Toyota Crown hybrid and had to haggle with the dealership to change my oil at 5,000 miles. But I insisted I wanted to do it despite what the owner’s manual said. This is the first car I’ve purchased with my own hard earned money that’s 100% in my name. I want this car to last me awhile, so I’m sticking with the 5,000 mile oil change interval, no matter how much I have to fight with the dealership lol.
I did my first oil change at 2000 miles. It's a 2023 Honda Civic. NO haggle at all. They never said a word. My first 2 years of oil changes are free. I'll do mine at 4000-mile intervals.
Why tf are they haggling YOU about something YOU want done? Ridiculous.
And stop going to dealerships. Places like Meinike are good
if the dealership gives you hard time, GO SOMEWHERE ELSE! A mechanic wouldnt say no to getting paid. Heck, even a "handy man" wouldnt say no to a quick $30 in labor. Glad you resolved, but stick to your guns. You want the car to outlive you if possible haha
@@dbzownz12345 Unless the servicing is logged, he has receipts, or the service book is stamped he will void his new car warranty.
10k changes are perfectly fine unless you're driving it in extreme conditions.
Yeah I always changed my first at 500 and added a neodymium (large) magnet to the oil filter. Your daughter is lucky to have a mad scientist as a father! 😀
Thanks!
What is a neodymium magnet and where do I put this? Thank you!
@@jb7797 Not sure if this is what he's talking about, but I've been using a FilterMag magnet that wraps around the filter. I cut open a filter after about 5k miles and found a black soot on the inside of the filter where the FilterMag was mounted. It seemed to be very fine particles that had clearly flowed through the filter element.
Harbor Freight $1
Where is the best place to place the magnet?. Thanks JohnB
I took delivery of my 2006 Toyota Sienna and by the time it hit 2000 miles It already had three oil changes. At 10k miles it had six oil changes. It now has 221k miles and drives like new. Recently I sent an oil sample for analysis and it came back perfect !
Right on!
My 06 sienna is on 330 and still good
If you use good oil you can achieve that same feat in less oil changes.
Wow! I'm not as fastidious as you are, but I bet your engine is super clean.
Excellent! I've always done early and frequent oil changes!
Really good to see you telling people this . I'm a performance engine builder and I will give a motor a oil change right on the test stand or dyno after 30 minutes, than in the car and 100 miles than again at 500. And I would never run any oil in anything for 7 or 10k thats emissions propaganda. I also do trans and rear end oil very often. Often
Thanks for sharing!
Yes thanks for sharing! Good to know all this great info from everyone, info that has seemed to have been lost in this modern age of consumerism and planned obsolescence.
Not emissions propaganda, it's the cost of ownership to 36k miles (or whatever milage the writer calculates.) The second reason is factory paid maintenance. The millions of dollars extra they'd spend for an extra oil change for 125,000 vehicles if interval is dropped 2500 mi and the vehicle gets 1 or 2 more changes is big reason. I worked corporate for a manufacturer and no emissions consideration was involved. In Europe the story is different.
@jimmyaber5920 0W-8 has to be emissions nonsense though. So thin that it's ridiculous.
I could not agree more. The same procedure should be performed on all new equipment. Whether it is a ride-on lawn mower, car or truck to all the compartments of an excavator, wheel loader etc.
GREAT ADVICE.
Right on
@@themotoroilgeek 500 miles on a lawnmower is a long time.;) Is the 5 hours recommended on my generator (or other air cooled small engines) ok or should should it be done sooner, especially as most don't have oil filters.
@@glennfrancis9031 LOL, an hour or two is sufficient in that application.
Yes you are right. My BULLDOG zero turn states to change oil after first 5h. THEN every 15-20 or roundabouts thereafter.
ALSO
my Polaris states there is also break in oil change.
i brought my son a new Honda Crf 125, it does not run an oil filter so i see it absolutely necessary to change out the oil on break in as the metal debris can float around a lot easier. same with most push mowers
This is some amazing information. Thank you for putting this on video and paying the sample tests for us, genius
Absolutely fascinating! My next new car will receive the same treatment. Thanks very much!
Looking forward to the video explaining the difference between friction and wear!
In the meantime, check this one out: Fact or Friction? Two Things You Probably DON'T Know About Wear.
th-cam.com/video/qsQYqTM93Nk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Lake for another informative and educational video.
Thanks for breaking down the analysis on both oils. Some very cool chemistry. 😎
My pleasure!
Probably one of the best knowledgeable basic recommendations to change the oil by the first 500 miles for any new car or truck is how exactly what my father taught me well… Kudos
Pointless expense.
Being an avid car true collector of the Vintage Volkswagens and few 911 Porsches; As well as newer Toyota 4Runners, and Tacoma trucks for over 20 years has given the actual professional level of experience and a real sheepskin to know that your facetious lazy comment being just an oxymoron, whereas you MotleyDude are wrong … C’est la vie
@motleydude73 not true....break in oil has high zinc content and should be changed at the 500mile mark on a new vehicle..after that,normal intervals is fine(5000)
@@mikekopisz1227 That's motorbikes. Absolutely no need. And 10k is fine.
@@motleydude73hum ,10k engine replacement or $50 oil change huummmmmmmmm I'm thinking about it.!!!!
Great advice and excellent presentation .79 years old EX 1980 UK donnington GT champion . still doing my own car servicing .not as flexible as I used to be .. I still enjoy the mechanicing . a recent 2 post car lift is awaiting the heavy duty concrete slab to be prepared .
Thank you!
You are also a great dad . I for one basically did the same thing with my new 23 toyota tacoma trd changed it out @ 650 miles
give or take and used a toyota oil filter and pennzoil ultra platinum 0w20 . Thanks for your time and effort Sir
Thank you!
I love how tacoma trd owners always love to mention they have a trd 😂. My cousin has a trd pro but just says tacoma
Sound like you care. I Don't@@F82_
I agree with the first oil change early I usually go 1000 miles when I first do the first oil change . Thanks for the video great job Lake Speed Jr.
Thanks!
Never heard of it any before, but completely makes sense to me. Thanks for advice!
Very good editing!!
Easy to watch and very informative.
Thank you!
When I bought my new 2006 CR-V, Honda stated not to do the first oil change until at least 5000 miles because of additives used to break in the engine. I followed that advice. All I can say is the engine still runs fine after 17 years and 10 months.
yes I spoke with 3 seperate Honda service managers at 3 seperate dealerships and they all advised me against a first 1,000 mile oil change and I was willing to pay for it out of pocket so I did not do it.
Yeah this video proves absolutely nothing. Changing your oil at 500 miles is absurd bologna that this guy probably remembers from the 80s back when American motors were built like total junk.
Funny that you should say that. My dad purchased a brand new Rambler in 1962 for $1800. It came without a radio. Unbelievable. @@AMT4245
Same thing I heard when I took my wife's '06 Pilot in for its first service. I had about 3k on the odometer and they sent me home until 5k.
@@katazack bullshit. take it to a lube place like Take 5 or Jiffy then... Additives or whatever is NOT gonna prevent microscopics from floating in that oil from breaking in the cylinder walls. That's where most of the metallics are coming from.
And if you're using such a thin oil, your bearing clearances and internal clearances are very tight. Which means it's even more sensitive to engine debris causing damage. Good call, thanks for the video.
Great point!
And with such tight bearing clearances for 0w-8/16 oil it’s also very important to not ever run too thick of a viscosity oil too like for ex a 5w30 or worse yet 10-30 o,5-40,10-40,yikes!/LOL!
The motor can obviously handle 16wt viscosity when the oils up to full op temp so if I owned a new car that rec ow-8 or 16 oil & lived in a warmer climate like Fl often using ac loading motor more & creating more heat I’d be running (if they make it ) 5-w-16 or slightly higher cold
viscosity oil like 5w-20 & here’s why I say that.
In my wife’s when new 2018 RAV4 Toyota wanted us to go 10k miles an oil change inc 1st breakin oil change ,not me!
I changed oil & filter at 1k miles & again at 5k miles using m1 0-20 full syn.
What alarmed me was (esp having 50yrs Exp rebuilding muscle car motors & restoring car with motor oil & its analysis being a hobby of sorts for me) was that with only 4K miles on the m1 0-20 it was pitch black & had heavy burnt order to it which wasn’t good imho.
But I put more m1 0-20 full syn in it for next 5k miles to total 10k mikes on the motor & that oil looked & smelled worse with only 5k miles on it being full m1 oil.
This oil seemed as though it could not handle the everyday heat & driving here in ny which aren’t that bad but with a still relatively new low mile motor the oil should not be pitch black smelling burnt.
I never liked 0w oil base Wt oil in full syn & thought I better try moving to a 5w-20 m1 fully syn where it has a little better protection against heat & shear having a more robust 5w base oil.
Well that did the trick because the next 5k miles on it & it never turned blk looking med tan color with no burnt smell & could still see marks on dipstick thru the oil too.
Fast for word to 60k miles today changing m1 5-20 full syn oil & filters every 5K miles and the oil has never been black or smelled burnt at 5k mile changes like the 0-20 did which tells me the 0w base Wt in 0-20 & it’s additive pkg can’t handle the heat etc in 5k miles turning blk & smelling burnt where 5w-20 oil from same mfg never turned blk smelling burnt in same 5k mile oil changes in same motor in same use cond to yrs later now at 60k miles changing the oil & filter every 5k miles.
Btw,this car/motor see’s mult trips from ny to fl yearly where the motors pushed hard with ac on at high speeds for hrs at a time & in fl heat in traffic with ac on & the m1 5w-20 never turns blk or smells burnt with now 60k miles on the motor at 5k Mike oil changes,motor doesn’t use or burn any oil in 5k miles too!
I know I made the right call/choice to not use the m1 0w base Wt oil in our RAV4 when I saw it turn blk & smell burnt in 4-5k miles where 5w-20 never turns blk or even dark brown & never smells burnt even at 5k miles like the 0-20 always did. Yes oil analysis would have been nice to have but I was in a position where I had to change the oil on the spot with no sample kits at home at the time to collect a sample.
But seeing the drastic diff in color of the 2 oils in same mileage with one smelling very burnt & the other not smelling burnt at all looking nice tan color & not blk told me with just going from 0w to 5w that the lighter 0w base Wt oil can’t handle heat & stress as well as the 5w base Wt oil could with i would assume both those oils having basic same additive pkgs past the diff in base/cold W Wt.
Keep up the great work you you do on oils educating us on tech etc.
Happy motoring!
Scott
Even more reasons not to follow a 10k oil changing schedule.
Not necessarily…
It's really sad seeing people go 10-12k miles between oil changes on these cars. You see it all the time checking the service records on these cars. They will be (1+ quart per 1k miles) oil burners by 100 -130k on the odometer.
Many years ago I worked on the Corvette ZR1 LT5 engine project and the topic came up several times. IIRC our engine ran for about an hour before it was shut down the oil drained. Then bagged up and send to Bowling Green. The internal parts had a lot of rust inhibitor coatings and it was believed to be best to get them out fairly soon.
Thank you, Lake! You are so kind to share your knowledge with us. We just bought a 2024 Toyota Camry LE, and thanks to you, we changed oil and filter at 480 miles.
Glad to help!
Thanks Lake Speed jr.
you’re always sharing great info!
Yes, manufacturers’ agenda is not always the same as our needs.
Thank you sir!
❤ it! Going to do the same with my next car. I use synthetic oil, extended life filters and 5000 Mile oil changes which I do myself.
Sounds great!
You should be able to go for a long time with this strategy. Doing it yourself means it will be done properly.
Thank you for this info. If I ever get a new car, I will change the oil and filter. But I will use a genuine oil filter and not tell the dealer what I've done because they might use it as an excuse to wriggle out of any warranty claims in the future.
this is gold. more than i could ever ask for. thanks!
Thanks!
These are great videos. It’s nice to hear from someone with real credentials. Now I’d like to hear your theory on what was happening to all the cams wiping out so often in the late 70s and early 80s. New cars and aftermarket cams. Was it the oil or the materials that changed then? Thanks!
I’m pretty obsessive about oil changes but even I wouldn’t do the first change at 500 miles. 1000 to 1500 maybe with subsequent change every 5k with full synthetic.
5k intervals is absolutely not “obsessive” 😂 im doing every 2500 on my gr corolla and did first oil change at 700 miles.
@@brandon9491 Yea that's ridiculously obsessive. 10k miles is fine.
@@motleydude73 10k on this motor would be considered abusive lmao, toyota recommends 5k but considering im gonna be beating on it ill just do every 2500. Easy enough and only cost me like $35.
@@brandon9491 Toyota generally recommend 10k. I work on them every day. Abusive? It's perfectly fine. You're gaining nothing by doing excessive changes. 5k is recommended for the new GR.
@@motleydude73 yes, that is why i said on my gr corolla 💀 10k interval on this motor is 100% considered abusive
I really wish I found this video a month ago. I brought my Corolla home at the end of November and just passed 1,000 miles on the 23rd. Now I need to order some oil and filters.
Yep. Mechanical engineer here. I bought my first new truck in 2021 and did a Mobil 1 oil change at 500 miles.
Thank you for this video. Funny enough - 4 years I received a company car which happened to be a corolla - on the day I got it from the Toyota dealership the sales guy told me to show up in 15k km (approx 9300 miles). As it is a company car it has got a lot of km to drive. The very first drive was 900km with a stop to fill up. And already on the second day after receiving the car I was already driving with the speed of more than 150km/h (>90mph). And then I didn't calculate properly the distances and showed up for the very first oil change (after 6 weeks of driving) with almost 20k km on the clock. Within the 3 years I was driving it (C19 made it a bit complicated at that time LOL) I made almost 280k km (170k miles) and nothing ever broke or there were not issues at all with the car. It was sold to one of the company employees and now it is stil driving fine with 300k km. So yes, toyotas are really well put together cars :)
i no it has motor noise
I sent a oil sample to Speed he was spot on he detected high silicone levels in my oil. The silicone was from the oil pan gasket that my mechanic replaced my mechanic went a little heavy in the silicone. Because of this oil analysis I dumped and did a complete oil change. Silicone acts as an abrasive.
Thanks for sharing!
@@themotoroilgeek 😁😊
Even if you measure out the exact width of rtv the service manual states to use there's going to be high silicone content in the oil for the first couple oil changes
@firstlast--- Speed is awesome he was spot on with the lab results! 😁😎
Silicone or silicon? Not the same thing…
Best vehicle I ever had 88 jeep 4 litre straight six.
Changed my new Jeep oil at 500 miles.
Drove it 34 years and then it drove from Ca. to Norther Michigan
where it !ives now.
GREAT advice! I remember all the metal in my oil at only 500 miles.
Never went more than 3,000 miles between changes.
Thanks for sharing
I've just finished my third oil change on my wife's 22 Cherokee 3.2L Pentastar engine. On my other cars I can use FilterMags on the outside of the metal oil filter can, but on this design engine I can't do that, so I installed a magnetic drain plug at first oil change at around 1300 miles. At 2nd oil change(5k odo), I was a little surprised at how much iron was picked up. At 3rd oil chg(9300 mile odo), I was even more surprised at how much iron dust has been picked up by the mag drain plug. I don't think many people are aware how much fugitive iron dust is circulating in a modern "all aluminum" DOHC engine.
Love seeing this advice. Bought a 23 audi q5. First interval recommended is 10k as well. I did a 1200 mile oil change, 5k and now about to have the dealer do the 10k.
Great video. Always did the same thing regarding initial oil changes. I've been turning wrenches since the early '70s. Never paid anybody to change my oil!
My Toyota filters come with the gasket pre-lubed and also covered to keep crap out of the filter. Nice touch.
Hey, I've got the same oil change pan!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Same here, the thought of someone else changing my oil horrifies me. Toyota filters and Mobil 1 every 6 months or 4,000 miles for me. Oil is cheap and engines are not!
I don't trust anybody to change my oil and I'm an old man
Me too.@@timferguson8654
From an engineer... Higher level wear during the first few thousand miles is normal and is completely expected as all the components are getting broken in so very fine particles from newly machined surfaces are created. Like he said changing your oil early is good so you get these particles out of the system.
Manufacturers used to recommend a pretty comprehensive break-in procedure. They all used "break-in oil". I remember the first change being at 1000 miles, not 500, but it probably varied over time and from one manufacturer to another. During that 1000 miles you were advised to not rev high and to not run the engine at a steady RPM for long periods. But most important was that 1st oil change.
Thanks for sharing!
Was that in the 1970s? 🤣
@@motleydude73 It was like this through the 90s as well. And even the early 2000s. You'll need to troll a little harder 😉
@@promethbastard No it wasn't. I started my automotive apprenticeship in 1993. No cars had 'break in' changes. The first change was always at 10,000 kms. These days it's 15000. I bought a new Honda Accord in 1995 first change was due at 10000. A break in period was recommended but not early oil changes.
@@motleydude73 Interesting, although I would say "It wasn't for you" - it was pretty much a known/given thing with the people I hung around.
Your experience isn't the experience of others.
Great info . Thanks. I have always changed oil very early on new engines.
Right on!
Awesome content!! Would love to see some experiments done with gas additives as well since so many experts agree that lubing crankcase alone isn't enough but when gas delivery system gets lubed constantly via gasoline additives (upper cylinder lubricants), then the wear and tear gets further reduced by some 50% and thus set your engine in for a million miles mark while still going strong (saw a few cases with my own eyes). Liked and subscribed.
Thanks! We will make some videos about gasoline additives.
I pretty much have to run the Lucas fuel additive / fuel lubricant on my 1991 Nissan Maxima.
Not sure if it's because of the terrible factory injectors, or if fuel is just that inconsistent here in Mexico.
If I go 2 to 3 fuel tanks without it, the engine starts to missfire and runs poorly even on premium fuel.
I just keep a 1l bottle of the fuel additive in my car. What is $12 every 8 to 10 months 1L for fuel additive if it keeps my car running good.
It's the fuel in Mexico. Good job on finding something that works and sticking to it. @@Brandon-uy1uv
I have heard people recommend putting a (very) small amount of ATF or 2-stroke oil in the gas as a "top lube." Not 32:1 or anything; more like 300:1 (a few fl. oz. per fill-up).
I have no idea if that works, or if it's just an Old Mechanic's Tale. I do know truckers running older rigs use ATF to make up for the lower lubricity of ULSD, but they don't have cats. I do run what's left of my 2-stroke lawn gas at the end of the growing season, but that's more about me being cheap than expecting "gains" out of it.
@@JetSkiSuper7
1. 2 stroke oil is designed to be burned without ash residue.
2. ATF has a lower number of additives to foul a cat than motor oil.
3. 300:1 means about a quart of ATF or 2-stroke every 2100 miles or so. Which is less than many cars burn. (Cars with tow-tension rings can burn up to 1qt/1000 miles before it is considered "abnormal" enough to require warranty work.)
4. I probably wouldn't do this in anything new enough to monitor cat efficiency and set a code.
5. Probably not EPA legal...but if you aren't breaking the occasional law, are you really living life to the fullest?
Good job 👍👍I am with you on oil changes.❤
Thank you!
We recently got a Skoda Octavia 1.5 G-Tec. First oil change coming up soon. No breaking in whatsoever, i've driven that car hard since day one (with a gentle warmup though, no hard driving with a cold engine).
Not keeping that car for all that long so couldn't care less about wear.
Same with just about every diesel BMW taxi and never had a problem, although those get oil changes at around 11000-13000km.
I have always had new cars. And I always closely observed the break in procedures. And I'd change the oil and filters at about 1,000 miles. Switched over to Amsoil and do 7500-10K(for the 10.5 quart sys) changes. On one car, due to past valve drop issues, I sent samples to Blackstone Labs. The results are stellar. I did this for several changes. No titanium at all in the oil sample, along with any other wearable metals. And both my engines rarely need oil additions between changes. I've alway felt that doing this with a proper break in will greatly reduce the chance of having a 'problem child' for the rest of the car's life. Glad to see this video reinforces my original idea.
Thanks for sharing!
Great info. Very informative. 2012 G37, original owner, 113K miles,first oil change at 3900 miles, now using 0W40 Mobil1,which has reduced a small amount of oil burn compared to, the recommended 5W30(Mobil1). I will start flushing with clean oil between changes as you suggested. 0W-8 makes me cringe!
Glad it helped!
Give liqui moly molygen a try, full synthetic and improved fuel economy, mobil 1 is notorious for oil burning no matter what car I've had
I usually follow what the owner's manual says but in this case you are exactly right, in my opinion.
I always do an early oil change and in the case of Powersports such as Polaris they recommend doing an early oil change also after break in.
I referenced this video in a Euro car forum & all holy hell broke out. People, despite hard/fast lab results (science), will STILL fight & die on the hill of engines have already been broken in now at the factories.... it's akin to arguing water isn't wet but they don't let that get in their way of arguing the un-argable.
Thanks for bringing clarity to an often debated question. In the past I had always changed my new vehicle oil at 500 miles but had gotten away from the 500 mile and moved to less than 3000. I now have justification for changing the oil in my new Silverado HD 6.6 gas engine at 600 miles instead of waiting. You also validated my practice of filling the new oil filter. I have made this a practice for many years, especially when I was working on the big trucks at work. I appreciate you generosity in sharing your knowledge.
I'm glad it was helpful!
This seems gets rid of the the metal chips left over from matching. Also should get rid of the assembly lube grease that may contaminate oil filter. I've been doing this a long time on new engines even lawn mowers.
No debate just change it as per manufacturer recommendations not taking some geeks advice on youtube! He's just costing you money and you're wasting good oil.
@@motleydude73rather waste good oi than a good engine
@@rogerdodrill4733 Why would your engine fail? You americans are uber paranoid about oil it's laughable. Just chuck fresh stuff in every 10k miles and drive it your engine will be fine. In my 32 years in the trade I've yet to see an engine have catastrophic failure because the owner stuck to manufacturer recommendations. They built the engine they kinda know best huh.
Did my 23 4Runner at 899 miles... It was a lot of micro-sized prearlescence in the oil. I did the quart flush too. Glad I did it and I find it remarkable that people argue against it...
5k oil changes from now on!
Right on!
10k is perfectly fine. Stop wasting perfectly good oil listening to the moron in the video. Your engine isn't going to fail or blow up.
@@kimbuck2177 What for? Isn't your vehicle brand new? Don't need to worry about oil changes for another 9000 miles. Doing anything yourself will void your warranty.
@@kimbuck2177 Why not? They're experienced technicians trained to work specifically on your brand. Good luck if you need anything fixed under warranty in the next 5 years they'll laugh at you.
Good job. Lake thanks for giving us good information. I was blown away by your revelations. Definitely changed my thought process about the chemical makeup with the different oil brands.
Glad it was helpful!
Man! Thats awesome! Every oil change i do myself on a vehicle i ALWAYS use a quart to flush out the old oil after the first drain. Ive been doing that since i was 13 when i did my first oil change on my moms 86 ford escort! I was 13 at the time and nobody told me to do that, i just instinctively flushed it with a quart! I'm glad to see that you do that. Shows me that ive been doing it right the whole time.
Right on!
I usually download the South American owners manual for my car(same exact engine) and check the oil weight listed and that will tell you this incredibly thin oil is strictly for USA CAFE standards, not engine longevity. In many other countries for that exact engine the manual calls for up to 5w30 oil.
Thanks for sharing!
That figures.
I can attest to this also for Transmission Fluids. I rebuilt a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD and also a 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD both have the same transmissions (4L80E) and the 2006 called for (different) thinner fluid but I put the thicker transmission fluid as was used in the 2003 GMC. For people who say well the clearances are tighter so you need to use the thinner oil. These were the exact same transmission down to every last seal, etc. The USA CAFE standards along with these rip off companies are destroying the vehicles and getting maybe slightly better gas mileage from maybe a little less friction. Hence why they say in the manual for this Toyota to do the first oil change before 10k, if they were honest they would say 500 miles and send this video to every buyer of their product.
@@usapilot78 so true. I don’t know who started this tolerance myth but it’s been proven wrong.
Agreed 100%. I've done first change at 500km Australia, around 310 miles. Then at 1000km. Then I do each 1000km up to 5000km.
Good to remove that run in metal. I've done this on all my vehicles, being toyota's. love you respect for mechanical, oils.
Thanks!
Makes zero difference stop wasting good oil! 15k is fine. Toyota say so.
Engines 30 years ago got over 100,000, now they bare failing well under 100,000. my most recent F150 had trouble at 69,000. I think you are spot on flushing out wear and extending life of engine!
Thanks for sharing!
It would make sense that it's even more important with thinner oil. Like 0W-8 😂
I've heard plenty of 5k being the right oil change time (after break-in) and not any longer.
Looking at getting a brand new 2024 Sienna, so I certainly want to do this 500 mile change to make it last as long as possible.
Thank you for this video.
Thanks mate a video well worth watching! This need’s a wide audience! The break in oil and even extended intervals that manufacturers are pushing for Isn’t necessarily the optimum! It’s something I’ve tried to explain but struggled to get my point across but you explain so clearly! I’d often just give up and tell them that their engine lasting longer doesn’t make me money! Btw I had a lot of fun in one of those Honda’s!
Glad it helped
Of all of the videos that I have seen mechanics pouring oil from the quart bottle into the engine, you are the first one to pour the oil correctly. It would be good to point out which side of the bottle should be up so the oil doesn't spill all over the place. Thank you for all of the great information that you pass along to us.
At 11:00
Thanks!
Yes I noticed this too!! Wow this is like my 5th comment in this vid. Lots of experience and knowledge being shared with this video. Good to see and know that "old school" gear head knowledge being preserved and passed on to alleviate the symptoms of this dealer-centric era of planned obsolescence and consumerism.
Or just use a damn funnel 🙄
Great video and nice car! I bought my 2011 Toyota Corolla new and have changed the oil (synthetic) every 3000 or so miles. I've got 161,000 on the odometer and have never had an engine repair, only had to replace the water pump at 135K miles. No oil leaks, A/C is as cold as the day I bought the car. I recently did 85 mph (pushing occasionally to 95 mph) on the highway for a prolonged period of time and the car did not so much as flutter. Oil changes are cheap insurance and Toyotas are bulletproof.
Thank you for your time, doing these awesome videos!!!! 👍👍
Glad you like them!
I would definatly like to hear more of the wear vs friction.
th-cam.com/video/qsQYqTM93Nk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cGny2Qmneg7BHrTS
A lot of new cars call for 0w16 or 0w20 motor oil. There are a lot of people out there who are vehemently against using oil that thin and opt for 5w30. I’d love to see a video from you if there is a significant difference between the two for an average driver.
Engine masters, did an episode on their show, about oil weight. Going too thick can cause damage to an engine. They showed an extreme, but put 90 weight, I think, in an engine with tight tolerances, and it starved the bearings.
Going up a weight won’t hurt a thing. Older Toyotas used to spec 5w-20 to 20w-50. A Corolla I had showed that in the manual. Buy a vehicle outside the US and they spec different oils.
I was watching some Jeep 3.6L episodes on rocker arm issues. One thing I noticed is Jeep calls for 0W20 and almost every one was putting 5W30 or 10W30 in their engines. Could be coincidence. But makes you think that there’s something to what the engineers call for.
You're asking for trouble going against the recommend! The OEM's know best. Whatever the manual says THAT'S what you wanna be using don't be STUPID!
@@garyszewc3339 If OEM calls for 5w20 like in my 2010 Accord but live in mild winters never under 30 degrees/highs around 50-60 degrees...and always hot in the summer from 90-110 degrees, then changing to 5w30 for those 5 months of super hot weather and back down to 5w20 for the mild winters shouldn't be that bad?
I purchased a new 2023 Chevy Malibu with a 1.5 liter turbo ! I completed one (1) trip down south from the northeast, and did the initial oil change at 1900 miles. An oil analysis sample reported the engine is breaking in properly. I didn't reset the oil life monitor! The dealer told me bring in the vehicle when the oil life is around 20%, or 6000 miles. I will still go to the dealer for the so-called courtesy free initial oil change and will not tell them I already did (1) oil change. I did this before with other new vehicle purchases. Bottom line, YES, absolutely do an initial break in oil change, if not at 500 miles, sometime around 1500-2000 miles ! If your keeping the vehicle don't wait for the 5000-7000 mile initial oil change. Do one in between !
Right on!
Love it! Always told to run through a 500 mile break in and change oil. Also do NOT go 10mi interval if you have a turbo.
Thanks!
It is really nice to hear that my 2000 miles oil change intervals, once a year, make sense om my motorcycle.
Just bought a brand new Tundra HV. I always change the oil at early and frequent intervals within the first 5k of life. First one at 500 miles, second one at 2000 miles, and then again at 5000 miles. Will always change at 5000 miles from there on. This is how I've treated every new vehicle I've gotten.
- Toyota MDT
Right On!
This guy is probably the best dressed person I have seen changing the oil on a car. Too funny. I also do the oil changes on my daughter's 2021 Miata (college graduation gift). I did the first oil change at 500 miles, then at 1000 miles. Good information in the video, and I am now subscribed.
Thank you
100% with you on this. I've always done a break in change!
Thanks!
There is no engine break in on new cars. Look it up.
@@r3games1985 don't believe everything you read.
Thank you, Lake, for this most interesting and informative video on an important subject.
I did something similar on a 2019 Nissan 370Z that I bought new at the end of 2018. I did a first oil change at 300 miles, then did subsequent oil changes at 900 miles and 3,000 miles. After that I did all oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals. I did sweep the bottom of the oil pan with a telescoping magnet to pick up any more iron particles that I could find.
The oil filter I used had a very high filtration efficiency, greater than 99% for particle sizes 20μ or greater. Because of this high filtration efficiency, the filter was more restrictive than the stock filter so I compensated by using an identical filter that differed only in being taller, with about 50% more filtration area.
My break in procedure was keeping revs below 3500 rpm for the first 1500 miles with only gentle acceleration. I also varied engine speeds, not driving the engine at a constant speed for a prolonged time. On cold starts, I would not put the engine under load until the coolant came up to temp, fairly quickly, and would be gentle on acceleration until the oil temp got past 160⁰ F.
My engine consumed about 3 oz of oil between 3K mile oil changes while it was breaking in over the first 15K miles, probably due to the lengthy break-in and my babying of the engine. After that there was no discernable oil use on the dipstick at the end of my 3K mike oil change intervals. There was a very slight amount of soot build up on my exhaust tips during the first 15k miles, whereas now there is virtually none. The car now has 57K miles on it and still uses virtually no oil, with the engine running smoothly and quietly.
I have a real concern about that 0W-8 oil that the manufacturer specs for that car. Are the manufacturing clearances so tight, or the fluid orifices so small in the VVT gear, that oil of such light viscosity is really needed? Do you think that this recommendation is more along the lines of the manufacturer trying to raise its CAFE values than for engine longevity? I have a hard time feeling good about operating an ICE with such a light hot viscosity oil under high temperature/high load conditions.
Thanks for the feedback and the question. Stay tuned for the next video. It will address those questions.
Wish I learned all this sooner😢But… this knowledge is power for future endeavors in maintenance 👍🏼
Thanks!
Ordered my kit today, #1375.
I hope I didn't wait too long.
Just over 1000 miles but less than 1500.
Scheduled for Saturday. New Explorer with the 2.3 Ecoboost.
Going back with 100% synthetic from individual quart bottles. Not bulk oil.
He's spot on. Any engine machinist like myself stands by this. You'd be surprised at how much filings come out.
Thanks!
Love it, keeps it simple, no fancy battery power tools. No lift! And finally someone else dedicates a quart to flush through the motor! My wife and friends laugh when I do it to mine.
I also pour a little oil to chase out the contaminated oil but I think a quart is too much, it's a waste, when you pour that oil into the crankcase it's only going to flow down one passageway into the crankcase, it's not going to flow throughout the entire engine. I just pour maybe 10 fluid oz. or so.
Thanks! Now you can tell them you aren’t crazy! LOL
I have done this for years, oil is cheap when balanced against the cost of major repairs or replacements.
Ya?
Well, let them pay for a new engine and see if they still feel like laughing. Ha Ha Ha
I also do it and everybody wonders why I have to be so “crazy” about it.
Why wouldn’t you flush out the last bit of debris?
There's a channel here of TH-cam, Garage Gear. He showed this with a brand new lawnmower by running it 10 or 15 minutes then changing the brand new oil out. You should see the metal in the oil!!
I also learned this in 2019 when I changed the transfer case, and both diff fluids in my 2019 Ranger with about 5000 miles on it. They all drained out looking like grey milk, with the magnetized drain plugs with so much metal on them they weren't catching metal anymore.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah ... especially with OPE - Outdoor Power Equipment ... the first oil change comes out looking like silver soup.
@@seanthompson8071 read in my comment above about my transfer case and both diffs in my Ranger? I was shocked!!
@@TheBeatenPaths Funny. At Toyota we don't do the diff oil until 60,000kms. It always comes out looking like... pink diff oil! Grey suggests water is getting in. 5000 miles? I call BS.
Quite right¬ Thanks for the reminder as many new cars recommended a 500 mile at first service!
Thanks!
Good content- l not only completely agree I change mine at either 500 or 1k miles on my new cars
Important consideration I thought of: if you're using a filter type that catches a lot of particles (based on other tests I've seen, sometimes at the cost of some flow, Purolator Boss, Royal Purple for example) your oil will appear cleaner. That would really muddy the results, so we're really testing the oil, engine, and filter as a system because we can't remove the filter from the equation.
Lubrication is always a system that involves more than the lubricant itself. Proper lubrication can be defined as the right oil, in the right place, at the right time and in the right amount.
@@themotoroilgeek Right!
Love the videos, Lake. Question: What oil are you using in your Porsche? My oil story: I own a 2006 Honda Element that I bought new. Now I am old school so I change my oil every 6 months or 5K, whichever comes first. I don't drive like I did when younger so for the past 4 years at 6 months I only put between 1K and 2K on the oil. Yes I am using a 0W-20 synthetic. Oil is cheap. The Element has 230,000 miles on it and still does not leak or use oil. Shooting for 500K if I live that long.
Thanks for the kind words. I use the Driven DI30 in my current Porsche.
Thank you for this video. My new Corolla is at around 700 Miles now. Should I change the oil filter along with the engine oil, or just the oil?
I agree with you on the early oil change. I did my first oil change on my ecoboost transit under 1000 miles. Did the next at about 3000. Sounds like I'm nuts but after that I do a 5000-6000 intervals on full synthetic. I have no cam phaser or chain noise and I'm approaching 100,000.
One thing I recommend on the toyota is stay with a toyota oil filter. Noticed you put a Purolator on.
God bless you for clarifying this!!!
Back in the days when Popular Mechanic magazine was around, even the engineers suggested you do the initial oil change at 250 miles THEN another one at 1000 miles.
I personally do the first oil change on my new cars at 500 miles myself, never waiting 3 or 5000k miles.
I'm happy to help. The good old days of Popular Mechanics!
Great info. Thank you!
Curious, it says on manual that 0w-16 can be use if you can’t find 0w-8 temporarily but on the next oil change, go back to 0w-8 (5:59 mark). Will you go back to the original oil or stick with 0w-16? Your findings did say the additives on both oils are identical.
Thank you again for the info.
my speculation on that would be that a thicker oil would be harder for the pump to circulate and and move around the engine. It would be mostly fine because the oil is within spec but probably there would be a slight drop on the fuel economy as the car is making a higher effort to move the oil around and probably some extra friction. I think it would be good to eventually move back to the original oil when possible to aid in the longevity of the oil pump and maybe when the car is at a higher mileage with more wear probably go back to the thicker oil to compensate for the wear.
I changed the oil in my new 2023 Tacoma at 1,200 miles. Then every 5,000 miles. I use penzoil 0w20 ultra platinum. Also service both differentials ,transmission and transfer case at regular intervals. Last Tacoma I had went over 300,000 miles with one minor repair. Used high quality lubricants always.
I do the same exact thing on my Tacoma. My last one went over 300,000 miles with one minor repair. I use penzoil ultra platinum also.
Motorcycles break in are 500 miles... I usually run 600-700 then drain. Excellent Video!!
This certainly won’t hurt anything, but is way overkill. The small amount of wear metals and the very, very small size of them, means they add basically nothing to bearing wear or other wear in the engine. The main issue with new engines is excess sealant as mentioned or any debris left in the engine during manufacturing. I change at 2,500 to get most of the initial break-in wear materials out and any manufacturing debris the escaped the filter. I then change at 5,000 and every 5,000 thereafter with a turbocharged engine. With a normally aspirated engine, I have no problem running synthetic oil for as much as 10,000 miles, but with a turbo I feel better at 5,000 given the heat generated by the turbo.
You're wrong
@@carstuff4u942 Nope, lots of evidence on my side. There is zero evidence to support multiple early oil changes in a modern engine. You probably also believe it is bad to fill oil filters before installing them as the new oil might be “dirty” and go through the engine once without first being filtered.
This is the only sane comment in this whole thread. Okay, you see results in doing the early oil change. Big whoop.... when have you actually heard of a car dying because you followed the factory interval? Be honest, the answer is *never.* There will be a myriad of other reasons why the car dies before even a little bit of extra break in metalicity on the first 10,000km even matters.
Your entitled to your opinion however you are incorrect. Regardless of opinions more material in the oil cycling through the engine causes more wear point blank. Don't hate me hate science. His next video on this topic proves your opinion is just that. An opinion.
No disrespect. Just science dosn't care about your feelings or thoughts 🤷♀️
@@mattdagger1480Well, I won’t go into my credentials here, but let’s say I am not ill-informed on matters of science and engineering. His next video discusses prefilling oil filters. Tell me how that invalidates anything I wrote here.
It would be interesting to see what your single quart flush is like after flowing through your engine. Send that off to the lab next time and see how much you’re really getting! Awesome vid.
Great suggestion!
I would guess the 1 quart would drop straight through to the pan and slightly flush the pan. If the engine was shut off and immediately drained one would think there would be very little on the pan floor.
Probably not a whole lot as it bypassed about 95% of the oil circulation system lol
Hes wasting oil for no scientific reason.
I purchased a new F350 with the 6.2 I did my oil every 400 to 600 miles using 5W30 amsoil 100% synthetic at every change I have a tool to cut the filter cover off i couldn’t find any metal up close no metal now I do my oil change every 6 months because I only put about 9 thousand miles a year. In my life time I never had I my oil changed by a garage in a 1/2 dozen time on different vehicles it was free but I passed only reason because I can’t wait to change my oil. I love this channel it’s about oil. Thank You
Almost all motorcycles of whatever hue, with 4 stroke engines, are supplied with owners manuals that stipulate a very first oil change MUST be made at 500 to 600 miles. I do my own servicing and can completely agree with this video following on from 40 years experience of doing this myself. Motor Racing engines are treated in this way and the first 500 miles are done on a dynamometer to get the initial 500 miles of running in a controlled manner. THIS is good advice!