ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2020
- Top down approach to unsticking piston rings on the infamous 1ZZ-FE engine using Seafoam.
Here's the "bottom up" approach: • Will Seafoam stop oil ...
Here's the compression test: • Are piston rings causi...
Here's the Marvel Mystery Oil test: • Will Marvel Mystery Oi...
seafoamworks.com/stop-the-smo... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I got nothing but respect for the people that keeping the manuals alive 💯
Even in Europe, its a dying breed
I keep at least 1 at all times. Two most of the time.
Love them except if you are driving in city stop and go traffic ..but that's easy avoid cities at all costs..lol
chances of gettin ur car stolen or carjacked goes down tremendously yup yup....
I'll probably never own another manual car, but I have three motorcycles to keep me shifting manually!
I did this on a late 80s Tercel. It had good compression in three cylinders, but super low compression in one. Possibilities were bad rings, bad valves or broken ring. Did the oil test and the three psi went up a touch. Still super bad in the one. Broken ring or stuck valve. I took plugs out and sprayed lots of carb cleaner into each hole. Vigorously wiggled the crank back and forth a couple inches ONLY. Left and did other stuff. Knowing that the really liquid carb cleaner would evaporate and also flow past the rings and piston slots I came back a half hour later and wiggled the crank and put more carb cleaner in, wiggled the crank again and went to do more stuff. Did this four times. My thinking was the carb cleaner is a serious grease killer and would soak and soften the carbon, and moving the crank would squish out the softened stuff from the ring grooves. Changed oil and it wsa ugly, like yours was. Fired up the engine and drove about for a bit and did a compression check. Bad one was back up to the others psi, and all cylinders were a bit higher. A lot cheaper, and I didn't want to take it apart unless I had to. In the Navy we wouldn't mess with stuff we didn't have to to avoid making more problems.
Dude this is 👍🏼
Toyota fix is to replace the pistons and rings with updated pistons.
Its about $1,000 for parts pull the head and pan push out the old pistons . The updated pistons have larger oil recovery holes .
My tercel valves stuck open one day! poured sea foam in, saved the engine. 😆 still driving 8 years later!!
Marvel fan here...used it in my airplane gas, never a problem and good long term compression in the Cessna 172A Continental engine. Walmart $20 pit crew oil change is worth it's weight in gold...no hassle or dirty situations. Have a look at Project Farm. He does a seafoam and Lucas in his oil and sprays seafoam directly into his intake on an old Ranger. It worked really good for him.
I bet it freaked out the Walmart oil change crew first time you brought in your 172 😀
Good video. Thanks for detailing your work. It does look like the seafoam did help somewhat.
That's very informative, I don't know if it was pointed out in previous comments, but unstucking rings works best on a very hot engine. You add the seafoam inside and you put the spark plugs back in to seal it so it evaporates inside the chamber. Leave it overnight, and next day you move the crank left right a bit to unstuck the rings that soaked in seafoam for a quite some time.
Then you can still leave it or add even more. Let it for some time, the longest the better. And resume with removing the liquid as you showed in the video.
oil replacement after 100-300 km after adding seafoam to the oil that leaves more time to the oil to clean the engine.
Cold engine is way less effective.
Nice ... thx for the tip
I've always run it hard after adding the seafoam and replacing the plugs
Leaving it in over nite My experience on a Honda CRV is it all ends up in the crank case ! I was trying to free the compression rings !
I wouldn't pour I would use the seafoam spray that says motor treatment high miles while motor is hot and just spray in spsrk plug holes then add to gas tank and intake manifold while car is running hot then run it on a clear freeway way at high r.p.m's and burn it out but be careful it can cause damage to seals and rubber parts if done too much or left too long in there only 100 miles to 200 miles is good then do it again down the road later on and stop using bad oil and cheap gas I use mobil, amsoil full synthetic and some times 91 octane Chevron with techron to help clean it out runs like a champ and smooth shifting gears
one thing i think most people don't consider but would be an advantage to the sea foam approach is its actually a fuel additive so basically its suppose to be in the cylinder so you don't need to be condenser with removing 110% of it from the cylnder and engen
Excellent camera work and thorough explanation. Thanks!
Thanks Albert!
Turning your engine backwards is a good way to increase the risk of jumping timing
Had an issue like this, no smoke, no puddles of oil under the car. Turns out the oil filler cap seal had turned from rubber to plastic and was letting a considerable amount of oil leak onto the top of the engine leaving jt with a shiny appearance, I figured I'd just spilled some when filling it up and wiped it off, it kept coming back until I replaced my cap. No more missing oil.
Here’s a tip I saw 👀 a guy do. When removing filters that hang down like yours take a plastic party cup and after getting it loose put the cup over the filter and squeeze the cup while turning the filter cup catches the oil. No oil running down your arm. 😁
Awesome idea, thank you!
Berryman's B-12 Chemtool used as a piston soak is a much stronger chemical to clean and free stuck rings and ring grooves. The other product I have used with great success for piston soaks is Kano Labs "Kreen". Use it as a piston soak from the top in the combustion chamber, then after it soaks past the rings and down into the sump engine oil, run it in the oil with a new filter until that oil is good and dirty. It may take a few complete cycles, but eventually the consumption will lessen as the piston rings get freed up and the ring lands get cleaned up . I like to go up one step in oil viscosity when cleaning with chemicals that thin the oil. So if it calls for 5W-30, I will use a 10W-40 or a diesel-rated HD 15W-40 while running with a cleaner in the sump oil. If an engine calls for a 0W-20 or 5W-20, I will use a 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the cleaning chemical in the oil.
I have a similar issue with my Celica 281K miles blows hardly any smoke, repaired the timing chain gasket Leak but it's still consuming about 1.5qt a week. I'm going to try this
Yes. In the crankcase is better.
On a V engines you can't soak the rings because of the cylinder angle.
For seven years I have had a 2008 Chevy Equinox LTZ 3.4L 6 cyl 114k miles. The engine is great in every respect except one, it consumes about 1 qt every 1k miles. No visible oil leaks, and Idles beautifully at around 600 RPM. No oil residue in the air intake from a possible stuck PCV valve.
3 fold approach worked for my auction x3 bmw that was nicely maintained but 10k oil changes stick rings
1) motor flush 2) marvel mystery in top cylinder and in oil, ( in driveway, not on road) 3) GM special chemical to free rings $20 forgot the name.
PS i will always change my oil frequently with full synthetic… dirty oil sticks rings
That is a great engine….it does it’s own oil changes.
Just a new filter twice a year
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣✌👍
I’m on the same page. That reminds me, ol girl is down a litre lol
😂
Mine too
Seafoam. Piston rings. Threw plugs.
Repeat every oil change 3 times. You got your engine back.
I had bad sludge in a 5.2 Jeep awhile back. I would put half a bottle of seafoam in 50 miles before each oil change for about 3 oil changes I think it was. Cleared it out a lot and ran drastically better/smoother and quieter. Lifter tick returned to normal and everything. Deep black oil came out each time. That stuff works. I think you’ll see better results over time with this methed but if you had done that soak and then followed it with the upper cylinder spray cleaner I feel like it would have made a larger improvement. The results you got weren’t bad at all though considering that it was a short term test and you burned about 30% less oil over a longer distance. Great video 👍
This caught my attention because I have a 2002 Corolla LE, 173K miles and even the same color as yours. It used oil to the tune of a quart every 800 miles. I upped it to 1600 miles by switching to 5W40 100% synthetic Castrol oil. In the past I've always used 5W30 synthetic. My old oil was never as black as yours, just a dark amber. I would change it every 7000-8000 miles. I haven't noticed any difference in the way the car runs with the 5W40. I replaced my spark plugs at 150K. They looked way better than yours did. I'm surprised you didn't replace them when you had them out.
just get a new car bro...dont be cheap
@brians7604 for sure bro buy me one then 😅 don't be cheap fool
Good job with the video. Takes a while to put these together
You should consider using an engine flush twice with clean oil and new inexpensive filter with each flush to get rid of the sludge. That could be your entire problem.
What oil or product do you recommend for the engine flush?
@@JohnSmith-xx1lx liqui moly
Excellent video. Thank you for the effort and detailed information.
Thanks Simon!
Did you refill the oil after starting the engine to compensate for the filter being empty?
Thank you. How bout doing the same thing with the carburetor cleaner stuff?
Wow great effort man. I have the same engine. Will try the bottom up on your next video.
Good luck, Terry. Thanks for the comment.
I think cleaning up the valve chamber would definitely help. Usually there shouldn't be much carbon built up on the piston as the blow back will transfer them into the chamber that clogged up the valve.
Nice video and Great explanation, may I ask you do I have to change the oil after using seafoam in the gas tank ? And to Maintain the highest performance how often I should pour it in my tank ? Thanks again
If used in the fuel, Constantine, you don't have to change the oil afterwards. As far as adding it to the fuel goes, I only use Seafoam in my small engines (lawn-mower, string-trimmer, blower, etc.) when I think the carburetor jets might be narrowing from fuel varnish. Where I am, I have access to high quality fuel that has detergents to keep everything clean, so I've actually never put it in any of my automobiles' fuel tanks. If the fuel isn't great where you are, it can't hurt to run as frequently as you like. I hope this helps.
Every 7,000 miles add 1 seafoam to the gas tank
Well analytical experiment. You forgot that note pad.
😂
Great Job!
Love it, very methodical!
Hi Dave, interesting videos. I just purchased a nice 2011 Audi Q5 with 82,000 miles, and I since found out this model is known to have oil consumption problems caused by sticking oil rings on pistons. I went through my first tank of gas, and sure enough, it consumed a litre (quart) of oil in that time. I tackled it with Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer, and that helped reduce consumption, but it did not eliminate it. I have since had to add another litre of oil, and I used Castrol GTX High Mileage 5/30. I am planning to use an oil flush at the next oil change, and then perhaps keep using high mileage blends after that. I'll keep you posted as I measure my results. Thanks for giving us all hope!
Thanks Tim, and yes, please do keep us posted!
any updates? you try the piston soak with the Q5?
Update?
Still waiting on an update
I have gotten lazy about tracking consumption rate. I change oil every 8000km’s, and I add 2 litres of oil between changes, so I think it has improved. I top up only with the thick stuff. I’ve done the flush twice, and expected to see black oil, but it was amber and clean. At this point I’ve accepted the oil consumption. I like the car enough to keep it. It doesn’t blow blue smoke, so I’m happy enough.
Really like the video keep up the good work man
Much appreciated, David!
You could put the piston at bottom dead center just before the compression stroke.
Remove the spark plug.
Fill the cylinder with Seafoam.
Put the spark plug back in.
Turn the engine over by hand with a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt, to raise the piston up the cylinder.
This will force the Seafoam around and behind the rings.
Do one cylinder at a time.
Good idea to add chemical cleaner at bottom dead centre, definitely doing use the starter or you could bend the connecting rod. I think really it would be better to clean piston ring from the bottom end by adding Chem to oil though that could be hard on engine berrings and seals.
@@martinmuldoon603 I would not use the starter. Bar the engine over by hand so you have more control over how fast the piston comes up, to prevent bending the rod or breaking a piston ring.
Why not add a 1/2 qt marvel to the oil change? Wouldn't that help? ?
What’s wrong with brake cleaner or Carb cleaner? You will have to replace the motor oil immediately and give the crankcase time to vent the flammable vapors out. Carb cleaner eats sludge!
BG EPR is one of the very best oil additives for cleaning stuck oil rings. I follow up with Mobil 1 0w-40 (light 40wt oil which is close to 30wt) for a long interval. This oil is confirmed to do a very thorough job of cleaning sludge and carbon.
Atf works great also
@@josephfreeman1427 do you add some atf to the oil or let it soak in the cylinders
@@Mikesroadtrip-ec5kp Soak in the cylinders to help free stuck rings. Pull the plugs and fill the each cylinder. Check them them the next morning to see how much is left. I would crank the car over to get the excess out and put the plugs in and try it again.
Another thing you can try is Seafoam upper engine cleaner spray. You spray the entire can through the air intake through the engine while the car is running for 10 minutes. Then turn the engine off, hook the air intake hose back up and let the car hot soak for another 10 minutes then turn the car on and drive it around until there is no more smoke coming out of your tailpipe.
Nice video Dave best one i seen so far Thank you
Much appreciated, Robert! ... that's a pretty old one, hopefully they get better :-)
Rinslone has a compression restorer if you want to try there product. This car is easy to remove the head and oil pan push pistons out and put new pistons and rings in. Eventually down the line. Do a compression test with a tester and see what you numbers are then a leakdown test this engine is known to burn valves all cars now a days a burning valves muat be something with the gas thats making these happen supposibly the valves are built with sodium which brakes down over time
I want to do this on my 2011 bmw 328i. Do I need to turn the engine before doing this? And what if I don't? Becuase I plan on starting it while plugs are out to get the b 12 berrymans in there good.
I bought 2003 rava4 with 150000 miles that used 2 quart over 3000 miles The other owner change oil at 3000 miles and used Quaker State non synthetic i switched to Amsoil 5w30 and changed 5000 miles intervals After 4 oil changes with engine flush i got it to down less than 1 quart in 5000 miles before it used 3 quart in 5000 miles Now i switch to 10000 mile oil change interval ive put about 35000 miles in less than 2 yrs now it using less oil but for being manual trans the gas mileage sucks im getting less than 15 mpg
Did you fill the filter with oil prior to installing it?
Hi David just watched your video on seafoam put the seafoam in petrol tank and oil then change the oil one quart short in oil then fill with Lucus to fill it keeps the oil and engine cooler so doesn't burn as much worked very well on wife's mini cooper
I've used Rislone oil treatment since the 50ds , that's 1950's ! Cleans an engine and really quiets it down ! Record engine sound and do at least, two , change cycles , 3K,3K, = 6K Sound recheck ! the secret is , A CLEAN ENGINE ! Good oil and filter !
Rislone is what I have used.good stuff. I don't change oil without rislone.
Grandfather owned a Studebaker dealer ship back in the days. He had a traveling salesman that sold Rislone and he ran his car with straight rislone. Always seemed to thin a
weight to run by itself. I to have used rislone since the early sixties when I started driving. Still recommend it!
Diesel works perfect as well and old school remedy pour some down spark plug holes and let soak through overnight. Good to do before your oil change.
Have you tried that Engine Restore additive that comes in a chrome bottle with a blue lid?
HEY DAVE, so my used 5.3 LS with some rust scoring that i already honed off and collapsed rings might still run if i can uncollapse my ringset with some diesel and sea foam?
whats bare min compression it should have on all 8 cylinders and can a compression test be done by hand for each cylinder with just that one spark plug inserted ?
cuz i dont have a starter and dont wanna spend 100 bucks if this things just gonna fail compression test anyways?
nice job on the video.
I was wondering whether you topped up the oil after you spun on the new empty oil filter? there is a fair bit in an empty filter and would change your results.
did you also replace the spark plugs?
that would not matter due to the fact he topped it off, filled his tank drove 300 miles and was still a quart low, so every tank he would have to add a quart so even if his oil was completely drained after putting on oil filter he had topped it off before driving a full tank of gas
Was wondering same. Always recheck after 15 or so minutes running after initial fill.
And not even cleaning the plugs/PCV was ???
If my oil was EVER that sludgey I would flush the block asap.
Not changing the oil enuf (5K/6months)on those is the reason those badly engineered rings lock up faster in the 1st place.
I screwed up by not doing it on my new 06 Tundra but did it 8-10K for about first 25-30K.
But as I've now read thru lots of others comments, I realize I've no room to judge.
Thanks for getting us all to think!
✌️
Did you top up the oil after running it abit? the oil filter needs to fill up
By liquid would oil also be considered liquid? My valve cover was leaking and shooting oil up on my air intake for about 2weeks. Oil had go into the spark plug tubes and then i removed the spark plugs i assume i probably released all the oil right ontop of the pistons.
Very informative and not rushed, thank you! A thing I would suggest to make it easier to find middle on the cylinder (between top and bottom dead center), use two sticks instead of 1 - put them in opposite position cylinders (e.g. 1 in the 1 or 4 cylinder, and 1 in the 2 or 3 cylinder). Then rotate crankbolt clockwise until the two sticks are level - that will be your center
Great idea! Thanks!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY curious what you think of this-
would there be a good way to safely push down the solvent into the ringers more with compression (without hydrolocking)? I've seen some people recommend putting piston bottom dead center and then putting solvent in (doing one cylinder, or two at a time).
I would like to do this but thinking about reinstalling spark plugs hand tight so there is some compression and so that the solvent won't evaporate up. At this point is it same to crank by hand and "force" oil by the rings (not using the starter of course). I don't think it'd be possible to bend the rods this way by hand?
Lastly I was wondering about the part where you wiggle the crankbolt in both directions. I have a MINI R55 and wondering if it's ok to wiggle it backward a tiny bit. I don't want to mess up the timing
@@SZGX The Seafoam site actually recommends doing as you suggest, installing the plugs to use compression to drive the solvent into the rings (by hand of course). ... I'm not sure about rocking your crank. The 1zzfe timing chain is locked down pretty tight by the ratcheting tensioner, so it can be rotated either way. But I know some engines can't.
I have a 2002 sienna which was losing a quart of oil every 100 miles. I had been adding oil frequently to the point that I was almost always had clear oil in the engine. I tried adding high mileage lucas oil that is so thick and that did not fixed the oil consumption. I did my research and found out that the piston design (holes not enough) is causing not enough oil to pass thru to lubricate the rings and that causes the rings to eventually stick. I did similar to what you did and left the seafoam 24hours in the cylinder and even crank it without the plugs but found out that all of the seafoam went pass the rings. I did not oil change after that and just drove the minivan since like I said, the oil looks clear because I add every 100 miles. I checked after 100 miles, 200 miles, 300 miles and 500 miles and it had not burned more oil than before. I decided to just add 1/4 of seafoam container every oil change (3k miles) and the engine has been performing like new. Seafoam acts as a crud cleanser to the cylinder holes and the rings that at high temperature, the rings would release itself from being stuck in the piston creating the seal between piston and the combustion chamber locking and containing the oil from below the piston rod. My gas mileage went from 12 to 25 mpg. Seafoam save my van and it is now part of my oil change. I just recently drove more than 1k miles round trip from Sac to San diego and vice versa, I just burnt a little along the way and would just continue adding seafoam and oil at the same time. Toyota had a newly released oil grade by year and model recommendation also found out that I can use 0w20 synthetic oil which I plan on using later after I am done consuming all my 5w30 oil that I purchased from costco. Adding some seafoam to your oil does not hurt your engine and believe me because I have been doing this for more than a year now.
That is awesome to hear! Very encouraging for others like us sharing the same problem. I really appreciate the comment @Eng Al! 👍👍
0w20 in a 2002 Sienna? Please provide link. Otherwise, this is bs.
Dave, what might be a good idea with the seafoam in the cyl's replace number 1 spark plug turn the crank by hand, when you feel compression hold it there, that will get the seafoam between rings faster.
When the compression bleeds off, take the plug out and do the same with 3, 4, 2 and let it soak.
I like that idea, Garth. Someone else also mentioned pressurizing it with an air compressor.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY That's good, but with all plugs out and the cyl you're pressuring, if the valves are closed, too much psi can actually rotate the crankshaft.
First time it happened I was like WTH! happened. 😁
Here's another way to tell if the rings or valve's are seating properly.
Get number 1 cyl valves closed and piston TDC and apply compressed air in the cyl not much, you don't want the crank to rotate.
Go listen at the exhaust tail pipe, if no hissing is heard, the exhaust valve is seating good. Open the throttle plate, if no hissing at the throttle then intake valve is seating good.
Remove oil filler cap and listen for hiss, if yes then rings are leaking. Do the same to 3, 4, 2.
Have a leak down test done it shows if the leak is good or bad.
Valve seals or worn valve guides can cause lost of oil.
There's no mention of draining the engine oil before this application of seafoam so that the crankcase does not receive excessive amounts of seafoam. Or does that matter? I have seized rings on my 76 kz750 which I hope to free.
Toyota did build a few engines that burned oil, with no fix unless it was an engine overhaul. Do you have one of these engines?
You sir is a lucky man. People NEVER turn your crank anti clockwise.
You actully have to turn the engine over counter clockwise to set the timing chain tensioner on many engines such as the toytota 2az-fe.
FYI. You should add oil to the filter or crank engine using flood clear mode or hand crank to prime the oil pump
Yes, adding oil to the filter if possible is always a best practice.
However unless a vehicle has been sitting for quite a while before the oil change, most studies have found that there is minimal if any damage to internal wear surface for that 5-6 seconds of run time before the filter is full and oil circulating.
Especially since most times the engine is cold, of if in a 'shop', the engine has just been shut down and more than enough oil will be dripping around.
I always use 10w40 on my 1996 Corolla and works perfect.
You didnt run the engine to fill the oil filter first before filling the oil to the "full line". It would have dropped a lot after filling the oil filter. You needed to top up the oil after running it!
I agree. The filter alone probably holds 1/2 a quart or more. I always do the "flood" start procedure after changing oil. On fuel injected cars, hold the gas pedal to the floor then try to start the car. It will not, because the throttle pegged at start-up shuts off the injectors. Then crank it over a few seconds until the oil light goes off (or gauge registers pressure). Let off the gas and it will start right up.
Great video! I have a 2008 Scion TC with 165,000 on it. I am currently using a quart about 800 miles. I drive it under 3,000 RPM. It was using much more oil before when driving it harder. So, question, what's the difference between the B9 chem dip and the B12 chemical? I am about to do my PCV and valve gasket. I have oil going into the spark plug holes, but not a lot. I think that my consumption is less, so maybe I have a chance at getting this under control.
Thanks. This is what I found on the Berryman's site. www.berrymanproducts.com/question/berryman-b12-verses-berryman-b9-carb-dip-cleaner/ I wish you the best with your Scion!
My friend has a 2007 tc, that was redone by Toyota n/c and he now has 135,000 miles with no oil problems. Thanks… Jim
Mine is at 309,000 miles.😅
I have an 06 Saturn that was neglected before I owned it. It would drink oil. Instead of risking chunks of sludge screwing up the engine with an engine flush I put sea foam in the oil and oil consumption is way down.
I’d say that helped somewhere close to 20% gauging from your dipstick. 👍🏼
One of the best things you can try to do is use BG EPR which is an engine flush it is designed to go in and clean out the carbon from around the rings added to the engine oil and follow the directions your regular engine up to certain RPM for about 30 to 45
I wood run a compression check on and see what the compression is on the cylinders before and after BG makes very good and the epr engine flush is very strong and it's designed to knock the carbon off the rings and allow your rings to expand back
You pretty much nailed everything I was going to touch on. Root of the deal (and you probably know this, but for those that don't), this is unfortunately a well-documented case with this and a few other Toyota 4 cylinders that ended up in a lot of cars, which was completely a manufacture 'defect', aka design mistake. The low tension rings will close up on the pistons after a time and there's almost no getting around it if you're just using regular oil (to include full snyths), even with preventative early changes. Problem being that you have to add concentrated solvents to keep them from sticking, at which point, you're destroying the lubricative properties of the oil and doing more harm than good for the rest of the engine. Toyota did fix it eventually, I forget exactly when, but memory tells me the mid 2010s (like 2014/15 model years).
Seafoam is about the safest option as it is a concentrated solvent but won't do *as much thinning of your oil, but it isn't a one time application solution either. You can do it initially a few weeks before a total oil change and maintain treatments going forward, but it won't completely solve the problem either, more or less a band-aid. That's not a ding on you or other users, it's totally on Toyota.
You could let acetone sit as you did, and it will certainly slip right past the rings and into the oil pan given enough time without air to evaporate into. If you're planning on doing an oil change right after, there's not much to harm other than residual acetone now in the oil system necessitating a full flush. Personally I wouldn't use acetone, though if you have access to industrial chems, hexane is an option mixed with naptha and toluene. None of the three are particularly pleasant to be around and are extremely volatile.
In the event you were curious or didn't know, most dipstick markings on all gas-driven vehicles indicate one quart low between the dots or hash marks. Diesel's don't exactly follow the same protocol due to how much oil sits in the pan and variance between manufacturers and models, but the general rule is 'at least one quart'.
Did you really put those old spark plugs back in there?? Think it’s been a great time to put some new ones in there.
Been down this road with an old Saturn SC1 I had years ago that burned oil BAD... I never changed the oil just changed the filter and used 20w50 oil..Helped slow the oil consumption A LOT but it still burned some just not nearly as much..Lasted me well over 100k longer before I sold the car and it was still running fine when I sold it..
Good info, Jeff. Thanks for the comment!
I've seen this dozens of times with 3sge nd 5sfe engines. I used to add seafoam, one quart to a quarter tank of fuel and give the old 'Italian Tune up' . Drive it hard for about a half hour. usually breaks everything loose and decarbons valves and plugs,
Good videos (I watched both and came back here to comment). Good comments.
I liked the idea of putting vehicle in high gear (engine off) and moving back and forth to move pistons instead of turning the crankshaft with a ratchet. Definitely should check/change PCV.
It is maybe that old oil increases engine prerssure and it goes through the least resistance-piston rings. If we change oil frequently and drive the car slowly and not high rev it i think we might overcome this problem. In my car I never pass the 2500 rpm and i think it helps with various oil leaks from the valve cover.
Will it work on tractor diesel engine?? Pour down injector ports.
Thanks for taking the time to make this.
'09 camry 2.4 here with 460k miles; i found switching from mobile1 full-synth oil to valvo semi-synth high-mil 5w-20 oil slow the oil burning (hi-mil mil valvo supposedly has better cleaning chems esp for stuck rings)...
Good info, Wes. You made me go to the Valvoline site where they talk about this team.valvoline.com/diy/how-using-high-mileage-oil-can-help-prevent-engine-breakdown
I won't use valveoline it has cost me engines before I always use Mobil 1 or castrol
@@stallion955 How did it cost you an engine and how did you know it was the valvo oil that did it? Care to give more detail?
@@wes1934 because the 5w30 valvoline tore up the engine I used to use Castrol 5w30 before then I ended up switching to valvoline for 1 oil change because where I went to get the oil they were out of Castrol 5w30 after I ran valvoline motor started burning lots of oil and ended up with a lot of knocking/ticking noises the motor was a 2.5 iron Duke chevy engine I've since been back to Castrol or Mobil 1 and never an issue since I steer clear of valvoline and pencil both are garbage if you ask me.
Doesn't the engine/oil have to be hot when checking accurately? Both after changing....and after your one tank of gas check, being at normal running temperature?
That is what I was told for all accurate oil level checks in vehicles.
i tried seafoam on my motor!..i have a sticky ring in cylinder #2...took the spark plug out lower the piston to bottom dead center so i could have the whole cylinder fulled up with seafoam!..left it in to soak for 24 hours...didn't do anything for me i still have the ring not open on cold engine!..strange thing though is once the engine has warmed up i get nearly full compression!..but low compression on cold engine!..any suggestions!..also seaform is petroleum based and can damage silicon type seals in an engine so be cautious when applying in your engine!
The Car Care Nut Channel has a great video on oil consumption issues.
Lol his method is : get a new car or change your oil frequently before it happens. Thanks captain hindsight
Hi did you allow for the amount of oil needed to fill the oil filter before the road test and the result ?
Good point, Dave. A lot of people have called me out on that on other videos too. I always crank the engine after the oil change, then recheck the oil and add if necessary... but I think I've only remembered to mention that in maybe one video. It's been a thorn in my side.
Dear Dave,
Hope this comments reach you in good health.
Question. How about doing the very same experiment using Carburetor chock cleaner instead if B12? Have you thought about it? Do you recommend me to experiment it on my car? Thank you
The oil return holes in the piston is most of the problem . Later year engines of several companies seem to have the same problem with the low friction rings.
Had this issue with old '95 Saturn, infamous oil burners, seafoam seemed to unseat the coked in rings. MMO also seems to help with this, but at around half the price.
Around 332 miles on a full tank of gas?
Are you running A/C or hitting the accelerator hard (like on a race track).
My average on any car i drive is around 400+ miles on a full tank.
Just an FYI, you can also pour half the bottle of sea foam into the crank case and run it for 175 miles. It'll clean everywhere your oil goes. I'm going by your concern for small amount leaking into the crank case.. ?
Interesting experiments
My Honda Odyssey changing the PCV helped it a lot and changing to high mileage 5w20 synthetic blend havoline. I had been using 5w20 high mileage conventional super tech.
I have also have a 2001 Nissan Maxima . It goes through alot of oil , but it has a rear main seal leak. It got better with pvc valve and Change and AT205 reseal but still goes thru alot of oil. 10w30
I had blackstone labs to a oil analysis and the oil seem to be within the avg for the engine VQ30DE
Thanks for the info!
It's the blocks - you can do what you like, the Malaysian made blocks are out of whack on the bores - so new rings/cleaning etc etc might improve things for a bit, but only for a bit. It's the bores.
We tried some Liqui Moly engine cleaner mixed into the oil on a thirsty Daihatsu engine once. I don't know what in the world it did inside the cylinders but after that it burned like 5-10 more oil than before. The engine was truly shot.
My car engine makes the same noise as yours 16.07 does that mean my Piston Ring are stuck it won't allow it to complete turn on
Sounds like a 50s or 60s British car they used a quart of oil every 100 miles, even when just left the showroom.
LOL
Might try this on my Toyota 2az-fe engine.....
Great video! B&G has a product called EFR which is specifically formulated for the "bottom up" effect and I'm trying it this weekend. I used to use Seafoam as maintenance for my older cars especially towards the end of the oil life just before changing it, often resulting in a cleaner bottom end, as both vehicles exceed 226,000 miles. I also use Z-max as a oil assist every other oil change.
Thanks, and thanks for the info, David. I'd like to try the BG products too. Someone in the comments of another of my videos mentioned they'd like to send me the kit, but I haven't heard back from them yet. We'll see. All the best with yours and thanks for the comment!
Give BG EPR MOA 44k kit a shot, I recently used the kit. Burning about 1 qt per 1k miles, cant give any feedback on it yet. BG also has another kit that is geared towards sludge buildup for direct injection vehicles.
Zmax is crap use lucas oil stable seafoam and marvel or atf
Thanks for this video. I have 149,000 miles with my 7A-FE 1994 Toyota Celica. I am going to do it this Christmas! smokes clouds! despite getting new valve stem seals!
I hope it works for you Ahmad!
Are you Scotty Kilmer?
Buy a Chevy
@@Elaba_ Scottys a clown
change the oil to castrol 5w 30 you will burn less oil
Can you cause a problem if you put too much in the spark plug holes.
Seafoam is great stuff. On my V8 in my Trans Am while the engine is still running I pull off a vaccuum line going to the intake, pinch the vaccuum line then stick it down into the seafoam, then slowly release the pinched vaccuum line and let the engine start sucking the seafoam in. As you release the pinched line and the seafoam gets sucked in, the engine will start to stumble and you will see black carbon smoke start coming out the exhaust. You don't want to release the vaccuum line fully or you will flood it with seafoam and the engine will die but if you relasee it just until it starts to stumble, the seafoam will get in there and clean up carbon deposit that will then get ejected out the exhaust.
One thing I learned years ago is that SeaFoam is amazing stuff. My 5.3L Silverado has 265k miles on it and I have been religious about this pre-oil change ritual... I add 1 ounce per quart of oil to the crank case and 1 ounce per gallon of fuel to the tank, and I do this 500 miles before my next 5k mile oil change (which is exactly 5 trips to work and back). ALWAYS change oil at 5k miles, ALWAYS add Seafoam 500 miles before the change. The engine has never leaked, it's never burned oil, and it has never thrown a code related to the motor. I am still running on the original spark plugs and they are perfect when I check them every other oil change. Scope shows clean pistons and valves, nearly no scoring of the cylinder walls. I average 21 mpg, week in and week out. I attribute this to religious oil changes and sea foam.
Sounds like a winning combo but I’d definitely buy new ac Delco plugs and wires. Spark plugs are at the end of life with that mileage. Maintenance with additives and oil has zero impact or relevance to the wear spark plugs experience. It’s like a brake pad or transmission clutches, a part of their function is friction and inevitably WEAR. I work on alot of LS based motors. They love basic EFI tune ups( TB cleaning, PCV valve cover replacement, new plugs, wires and top engine clean).
@@nordicpride9708 Great advice. I'm so hesitant to make any changes because the truck run so well, I worry it will go down hill. haha. You know, like staying away from the doctor because they will always find something wrong with you.
@@matthewpeterson3329 Totally understand. Look at it like exercise and good nutrition for your body. An apple a day keeps the doctor away kinda approach. As long as you stick to OEM parts she should run great for years to come. On Gm changing the transmission fluid is vital, and just anticipate the EVAP system to pop check engine lights. All easily addressable 👍🏻
This may be worth a try... What about RAISING the engine temperature by partially blocking the radiator? Obviously to the highest safe temperature. Bring oil temperature to 230 - 250 for 20 to 30 min? But the goal would be to get the cylinders to their highest shaft temperature.
So I always thought the oil dipstick level should be right in the middle of the two holes.. interesting I have been running low oil if that’s the case.. also my engine has been using a lot of oil so I am definitely going to try your approach, can’t hurt
you want it in middle when the engine is started for a little bit and you check immediately. you dont want to have cold engine and be in middle of holes because if you start engine it brings oil up and you might not have enough down in pan. on cold/unstarted engine you want to max and that usually means in middle while engine running
You were right.
Halfway when cold.
As it heats up, it will expand and reach the full mark.
IF you fill it up to the full mark when cold, the expansion of the oil will bring the pressure too high and cause damage.
Thanks. I’m chasing a gremlin trying to get it to pass inspection. somehow the two outer plugs have dark soot on them whereas the middle spark plugs are clean. I can only assumed oil is making its way in their if there is too much of it
for over 50 years both my dad and i always use chemtool b12, one all cars trucks and motorcycles.
My only issue watching you changing your own oil is fill your oil filter up with some oil before installing it. It gets oil pressure a whole lot faster...
You really want to use a Solvent like brake cleaner. You can buy brake cleaner as a liquid in a bucket. Brake cleaner cuts through grease, oil, carbon. Changing ur oil very frequently like 500-1000 miles will help a lot. Using a bottle of motor flush and some transmission fluid before changing the oil helps too. I’ve tried everything and the best thing that worked for me was just changing the oil every 500-1000 miles for a year my car stopped burning oil. After that year I changed the oil every 2,000 miles. Some times the rings are just worn out. If u just have a 4cyl engine rather than bothering with all this nonsense your better off just putting in new rings as most 4cyl engines you don’t even need to take the engine out you just take they cylinder head and oil pan off so it’s just worth spending a weekend doing the rings.
Good idea to store the oil in a small pail
Face it stuck oil control rings are not the only reason for oil consumption. The rings or cylinders could just be worn out. At that mileage valve guide seals often become rock hard, blow by from worn compression rings and worn cylinder walls will cause the PVC system to suck in more oily vapor and lets not forget about external leaks. Frequent oil changes with quality oil directly impacts cylinder and ring wear that is why some extremely high mileage vehicles don't use as much oil as others with similar mileage. So if your purchasing an extremely high mileage vehicle unless you know the maintenance history your taking your chances. Don't buy an oil burner thinking you can solve the problem with a magic oil treatment in the cylinder. The odds are against you.
I'm sure you can do your own engine rebuild, all you need is the space and tools all the info you need is in TH-cam good luck 😊😊😊
How about spraying some combustion chamber cleaner straight into cylinders and leave it for a while. It might work better than Seafoam.
BTW, the problem is often caused by too long oil change interval and low quality oil.
Really, at the rate it consumes oil, I would take the engine apart and clean the rings and pistons - I bet things are well baked and very crusty inside the cylinders.
Needed to rev it. Get it hot.
Much seaform in oil?!.
Not a mechanic but always do my own work with many hours of research beforehand. I'm not trying to sound any kind of way but curious about something . Wouldn't you be low due to the oil filter? I know it's not much but in a Corrola I would think it would show maybe?
You fixes are better than majority of mechanics ... Nowadays, mechanics don't have the care and don't have the time