Why engine burning oil, Oil consumption, motorcraft, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Schaeffer Ford Toyota, Chevy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- This video is about engine burning oil and why. 2 reason and only one reason people talk about.
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Fuel additive that I use www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fuel-additives/gasoline/p-i-performance-improver-gasoline-additive/?code=APICN-EA&zo=5257753
Every car, truck and EV needs this th-cam.com/video/H_bSDqnSh90/w-d-xo.html
Maintenance mistake made by diesel owners th-cam.com/video/WBOBzA56jvw/w-d-xo.html
Why trucks don't come with this? th-cam.com/video/hBbzJmCHtCo/w-d-xo.html
How to improve lights without cutting or drilling th-cam.com/video/K4WbM97pkmE/w-d-xo.html
How to protect paint on the vehicle without wax th-cam.com/video/I1fu9TsiYBc/w-d-xo.html
amsoil www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/?zo=5257753
mobil 1 amzn.to/2oM6WUe
pennzoil amzn.to/2M70v7r
castrol amzn.to/2wQKFJk
valvoline amzn.to/2wT3EmG
Schaefer amzn.to/2oRggpL
motul amzn.to/2oQ4OuK
red line amzn.to/2Nsihqk
royal purple amzn.to/2oPDz3k
repairvehicle what is the best oil among those you mentioned above
Amsoil is the best, watch this video and what people say about Amsoil. th-cam.com/video/XYyGS_U13II/w-d-xo.html
You mention a future video that explains if the oil rings can be "cleaned" (dissolve the carbon buildup) Do you have a link to this video ?
Not yet.
@@repairvehicle Can't wait. I hope it is soon. I've been adding dexIII with limited results
This is the best explanation of the function of engine piston rings and why the requirement for a high quality, high detergent synthetic oil is so crucial. Also, why regular oil changes are a must. In my nearly 49 years of life, I have not had a clearer understanding!!! (Dated Nov. 10, 2018) Sir, Thank You very much making this video!!!
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Yep. Full-synthetic oil and K&N filters. Most modern cars require full-synthetic oil because of heat and tight tolerances. Conventional oil just won't hold up the way full- synthetics will.
Fuel causes bad deposits on pistons especially tops especially with ethanol
repairvehicle
What do you recommend for fuel detergent to keep piston and valve's clean and healthy. For harley davidson? Air cooled.
I've used arch oil. .
Adrian. An old guy I know told me to use diesel fuel in my oil and gas. Use one OZ for ever two gallons. And 1 ml for every quart of oil. Now this was back in the day before synthetic oil. Have a great day
Oil changes are being skipped by most driver's that have engine problems, I'm 72 been doing auto repairs for 45 years.
I’m 71 and was shop raised plus college diesel mechanic
Retired and working on small engines. So much carbon in them I’m surprised they even run and damage piston and cly
Whats a good product to clean piston and piston rings?
Take a look at this video. Oil consumption and decarbonizing oil rings works? How to clean oil rings without removing pistons
th-cam.com/video/ussxoGWA-5I/w-d-xo.html
@@repairvehicle Your fkn awesome! thank you 🙏
This is a great supplement to users who might be new getting into used cars and diy oil changes/maintenance. I bought a 2006 Accord 2.5L last year 2021, with 155k miles. I was not DIYing at the time and when I first checked the oil, it was near bone dry!! Panic set in and I started acquiring tools to do my own stuff. The car was burning about 1 quart every 1000 miles!!
I changed the oil at 2500, 3000, and again at 4000.. I've used SuperTech and mobile 1, but back to SuperTech after learning they are made by the same company. Just a few oil changes later and the oil burning is down to acceptable levels, maybe 1 quart every 2000! I had noticed a black sticky build up on my tailpipe, but that went away, washing itself off!! I can't believe simple and frequent oil changes did the trick.
You couldn't have because that car does not exist. The 2005 Accord has a 2.4.
Another Tip to prevent this type of build up is to change the oil more frequently!!! I dont care what people say, I change my oil every 3,000 miles. A lot of modern cars are using turbos and that only adds to the problem as they introduce more contaminants and blow by into the oil which dirties the oil much much faster! Ive seen 3.5L ecoboost engines with 30k miles with sludge in the engine and oil pan even though they're following manufacturers recommended oil change intervals. BOTTOM LINE IS CHANGE YOUR OIL AND DO IT SOONER THAT WHAT THEY TELL YOU
With my personal experience with using amsoil, that stuff is like liquid gold, glad I made the switch.
Oil & oil vapors are introduced into the combusion chambers via the intake track via the PCV system, Also, another way that oil gets into the combustion chambers is via the valve guides and valve guide seals, especially worn valve guides and valve guides seals that have harden and lost their elasticity. Furthermore, usually these two issues are found together.
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption + engine tick. I'd much prefer to tackle the consumption. Losing 1.5-2qts per 3k miles using 5w-20 Valvoline MaxLife syn oil. Been told using Rislone Engine Treatment/RingSealer (yellow bottle) could help. Others have mentioned to "Flush" the engine using Liquid-Moly engine flush + LM Anti-Friction afterwards. Thoughts?
Seems like you're a knowledge mechanically inclinded individual.
@@dbzownz12345 I had consumption issues using that exact oil. I don't know why, but I've used Castrol Magnatec, Edge, and Quaker State Full Synthetic 5w-20 with almost no consumption.
@@JazzyJonas Using Castrol Edge FS High Mileage & just drove 800 miles & needed to add just 1/5 of gallon of oil. Castrol is best for oil burning cars imo. Won't go back to anything else now & their prosperherus protection for the cats is a bonus!
It is really destroyed the engine to
PVC is a joke on Us
Very good in depth video!! I've been using Full synthetic high mileage blend Mobil1 5w30 in my 007 Lexus IS350 since I purchased it in march of 2018 with 100k miles. I've now got 174K and have been doing regular maintenance and oil changes at 4,500 to 5K intervals at approximately every 4 months with a Wix filter. Unfortunately it was burning or consuming oil from the day I purchased it. I'm glad to hear you say that adding gas treatment is good for fighting carbon buildup. I normally use Shell V-power super unleaded gasoline with an addative Ethier Tectron Chevron fuel cleaner with Pet. I'm going to use Amsoil gas treatment next!! Thanks for sharing! Jeff Grant Mooresville NC USA
Thank you for your video. You did a great job explaining & showing how cheap oil will clog the oil rings & cause excessive oil consumption. You also explained the importance of detergent in the oil as well as evaporation rate & to use a high quality synthetic oil. Everything you said made sense even to people who know little about cars.
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thanks for this great video. that's what i always want to explain to the people, dont save money on motor oil quality! my honda civic consumed over a liter of oil at 1000km with relaxed driving style. full throttle Autobahn over 300ml on 120km distance. a third of the dipstick. So about 3 liters per 1000km and in this case, we would speak about an engine failure. and that with a mileage of 33.xxx miles!
the previous owners used only low quality 10w40 oil. in addition to the oil consumption, the compression was also extremely bad. the car was always used for short distances, which is also extremely bad for an engine. The piston rings were totally coked and that is an another reason for burning oil. Therefore, I used an engine cleaner and at the oil change, a lot of dirt come out of the engine. i ve never seen before an oil in a such bad condition. now I use a high quality 0w40 fully synthetic motor oil with very low evaporation. so the oil consumption dropped to a minimum.
the civic reaches now 138mph. with the bad compression before 120mph. i would bet, if the previous owners would still own the car, it would never reach 60.000 miles. because with that bad maintenance, an engine dies fast. honda says, change oil every 13000 miles or one time in a year. i do it earlier and all 7000 miles. with all this work, the engine runs very quiet and smoothly, better compression and a very low oil consumption.
so much engines should not die, but the stupidity of the people is the biggest problem. Honda's R18 engine is known to be bullet proof. but a very bad maintenance can still kill it. what i dont understand. the people spent a lot of money for a new car, and they maintain their car really bad.
Very informative and helpful, hats off you sir.
Is it cheap oil or not getting oil changes on time
Derrick J both and also possibly a third: using cheap gas like 87 and not 92 if your car calls for it (most sports/perfornance oriented)
I have to say this is a very honest and really intersting tutorial video i hope you never get tired of shring your knowledge god speed sir
The best way to deal with oil changes is with bypass filtration and oil analysis. Oil, even the cheap stuff will go a lot longer with bypass filtration but the synthetics with a killer detergent package will go the longest
Great explanation and explaining the importance of good quality oils!
tiny holes are tiny. love it.
Ive been using that cheap walmart Supertech Oil in my 1999 Honda Accord for over 10 years. Car runs fine with no oil consumption whatsoever. I do follow the manufacturer's oil service recommendations. I believe good oil is only recommended for high performance engines with tight tolerances and high HP.
Every 3k Oil change?
how many miles on your accord?
@@repairvehicle yeah I change the oil every 3 or 4K miles. Its got around 240K miles.
are you using synthetic supertech?
@@repairvehicle yeah I use Supertech Synthetic. Its the same price as conventional oil of a good brand like Mobil one or Castrol. I do believe Castrol or Mobil 1 have better additives in their oil but for a daily driver and at this price this oil has worked good for me.
Good video. I'd say most vehicle owners have no idea about anything about cars. Ive seen countless customers want 99c/quart oil used because no matter what explanation is given about synthetic or other good conventional oil, they still want the cheap stuff because they are only worried about the immediate need and have a limited income. That's also why I recommend friends, family to not buy turbo or supercharged engine, for example, if they can't afford to take care of it.
But, the car companies are using less tight fitting rings to lower resistance in order to meet efficiency laws, and they would rather burn some oil. Which, to me, is just stupid on the government's part because now you have oil burning, then the cat system is over drive.
Today, they say about 1 -- 0.75 quart every 1,500 miles or show is about the max. but it depends on each manufacturer.
At least that's my understanding.
Excellent video! I preach cheap oil is bad all the time. Some listen, some don’t. A quality filter is just as important as quality oil.
Even if you change an oil every 3k, if you have a cheap oil, that barely meets API Noak specs, and evaporates at 14%, the carbon build-up will much more than a 100% synthetic that has less than 7% rate. Which do you want to use.
Awesome explanation!
It's not only the oil. It's the high heat these engines have today. You can blame the EPA for most of these problems.HEAT is a killer to any engine.
Good point about the heat.
Very useful to know how cheap oils make castrotopic effects, hats off you sir.
Very informative. I’m a heavy duty mechanic from Canada and don’t know as much as I’d like about the newer gas engines. Subscribed and will watch ur other videos and get up to speed
I have one opel astra 1.6 16v year 2002 and hi burn 1l in 1000 km what is the your answer plz
Without knowing anything about your car history, oil type, change intervals. I cannot give you an answer
@@repairvehicle it doesn't take much story to know why a car consumes oil if you are a mechanic you have to give an opinion on what you think of as a mechanic
@@rilindhaliti9705 , I already explained in the video.
@@rilindhaliti9705 , that's like asking doctor, tell me why I am sick but I will not tell you anything else. If you are a doctor you should know.
very very very good info. also all acids are water base. keep water out you will not have acid. the acid will destroy the bearings.
Best explanation on motor oil consumption in engines, thanks for posting, great content, I think my engine is in great condition, I have almost 200,000 miles on a Toyota 3.5 v6 and I add about a half a quart once in about 7000 miles depending on brand of oil
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I would just do the oil change when the oil gets to the point of needing to add more 🤷 if you add it that often
7,000 miles is too much for oil changes your probably doing it every 10k miles? Not good try doing then every 5k
And most people do not change their oil often enough..I don't even go by miles in my older cars I go by what the oil looks like..When it starts to get dirty I simply change it..I always use quality name brand oil..
Looks are deceiving. What is the quality brand name? What do you have and mileage?
Thank you for the very detail explanation, but can you give us a more reference which "cheap oil" might damage the engine?
What do you drive, year and mileage?
The point of the story , is firstly don't use shitty oil . Another key point is keeping vehicle away from severe service conditions .
I have never seen carbon so bad as now in 57 years as a full time mechanic
Lawn mower breaking piston ring gland is getting more common every year
Equipment power has doubled since 90s. Full synthetic Oil performance has only been improved by 15%. There is a problem oil change intervals doubled or tripled but oil performance still behind 90s in many case got worse specially when it comes to full synthetic.
That's carbon deposits on the face of the Piston. but I would assume the valve guides are leaking. And what's the condition of the cylinder walls. Cross hatch hone?
I use Amsoil Signature 100% synthetic in both my cars. My engines generally need no addition oil over a 10Kmile usage. One engine I do sample testing on. After even this mileage, the TBN (total base number) is still 5 and over with no wearable metals measured. It's expensive. But, a ruined engine is a whole lot more expensive. I've used Amsoil for years with zero engine issues that were oil related.
I've always used Vavoline full synthetic changed every 10k mi. Last oil change, oil was low. Switching to Amsoil
I purchased my 1999 Nissan Maxima in 2004, with 70,000 miles on it. I still currently own it. Now has 308,000. Oil capacity/level is still maintained. I’ve only used Mobil-1 0w-30. I guess like the gentleman on the video says..... high quality oils help prevent buildup on the piston rings, which in turn helps prevent abnormal oil consumption. Cheers!
How often do you change your oil?
repairvehicle Every 5 months or 5,000 miles. Whichever comes first.
repairvehicle I drive about 1,400 miles per month. So it’s usually very 3.5 months.
Good informative video. I've just been schooled. Thank you.
Thx I’ve. Slowed down my 2.4 L 2009 Toyota engine to 1 quart per 400-450 miles. Using synthetic and Lucas. 210,000 miles on engine
Considering using Seafoam next. Any suggestions? (New engine lol)
In the summer
Don't use additives but useoils with high detergent. Also, use detergent based engine flush every oil change
@@repairvehicle thanks!!
So what oil would you recommend?
This video with comments has answers to your questions th-cam.com/video/nOptYXOOxNI/w-d-xo.html
Quote of the day: "You see those tiny holes? They're tiny."
If you didn’t say it with his accent, you’re a damn liar. 😂
I confess to using "cheap" oil and change it half the recommended interval and change filter every other change. Also use a flush every fourth change. Never had an engine that burned oil on either motorcycles or cars / trucks.
If u do the math ull find its more cost effective to get synthetic.
It's not about the cost, it's about engine wear. Even if you use the best oil in the world, it's severely compromised by the time it reaches the manufacturers recommended service interval. Even worse on diesels which is what we have now.
@@GdaySport HI. You sound like you know what you're talking about. I have a 95 Honda Del sol. And for the first time in my life I am actually working on it with my New mechanic who overlooks what I am doing. I want to do an engine flush but he says "Don't do it!" I also want to do other cleaning things for the engine that will clean out some of the carbon, etc.. Now the car's engine was rebuilt about 4 1/2 years ago. That mechanic knew me for many years and took care of my care. (He's my old Mechanic.) They totally cleaned out everything really good. Throttle body, New IACV, etc... It's a great running car. I keep up on the care very well... oil changes, filter changes, etc. etc. What do you think about doing an Engine Flush and or using products like SeaFoam, etc. and cleaning out engine? Any thoughts? Thanks!
If you are using detergent based it's safe.
@@repairvehicle You mean detergent based oil? I did a Valvoline Oil Change with Conventional Oil...
-Great video and explanation- Even if the cheap oil meets or exceeds manufacturer specs,and you don't change it often....this what can/will happen.When will people learn? You think you're saving money,you aint and serves you right as it'll cost you more.Cheap oils will have many less additives than more expensive oils as he said in the video and i said earlier.....even if it meets specs.Majority will meet/exceeds specs otherwise they won't sell them!
Great video brother, but You haven’t really answer how do we clean piston rings without taking them out ? 👍🏼
I should have some information soon
@@repairvehicle fair enough
You need to let us know what you consider good oil,I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and don't have any issues.
No Oil consumption?
Great video! I visited a car mechanic today. I brought my 2011 honda odyssey to him. He said to stop putting synthetic oil and use conventional oil instead. He opened up my engine cap and I saw all the dark brown gunks. Then we went to his old van and opened up the engine cap too, it was extremely clean! He said, he always use regular oil and changes it every 2,000 miles. Is he correct that I must stop using synthetic oil? Looks like he was telling the truth because of what I saw. He also said He's been fixing cars since 80s.
You not driving his old van. He is wrong. Continue to use full synthetic oil, but change it every 3200 miles max highway driving. I have 2011 lexus and I change my oil every 8k miles and it's clean on the inside, brand new. I use 100% synthetic oil.
Here take a look th-cam.com/video/3SQdzY9FDPI/w-d-xo.html
Why he said stop using synthetic? Because full synthetic oil is not synthetic at all, it's a good oil and better than conventional but should not be used more 3200 miles highway driving if you want to have clean engine on inside and wear free.
@@repairvehicle got it. He also told me to buy Marvel Mystery Oil and put 4 ounces into the engine. I watched many youtube videos yesterday about Marvel Mystery Oil and many is very thankful to it. What do you think about it?
Oil additives don't work. Companies that make oil additives have been fined by government for false advertising. But, they pay the fine and continue to sell these products. These same companies have not provided any test results before additives added and after. I have watched another TH-camr who tested his oil lab before adding additives and then with fresh oil with additives. He 3 times more engine wear with additives than without. All these TH-camr did not provide any proof it works, simple oil analysis before and after.
I've bought a few high mile cars, I would pull the plugs, squirt diesel fuel into the cylinders, and spin the motor some then letting it soak in. The fuel is high detergent and will penetrate the thickest oil deposit. Under compression, the fuel will flush out the crud and leave the rings lubed, able to do their work. Oil burning also comes from valve stem seals that have hardened up.
Diesel fuel is not high in detergent. Fuel has more lubrication than gasoline.
I was a lube tech for years. Every car that used pennzoil regularly looked FILTHY and tarred up inside. Worst oil in my experience.
Good day Seth Allison from Ontario. I thought pennzoil was pretty goo product. So what should we use? Thanks
That’s odd I was a lube tech for 3 yrs and used nothing but Quaker state conventional in my 08 focus and it was clean as new inside.
I GIVE 5 STAR RATING TO AMSOIL . THE BEST OIL IN AMERICA AND AROUND THE WORLD. THANK YOU AMSOIL.
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Maybe just in america. Don't tolk about the rest of the word. Here in europe we have better oil than your shitty reused motor oil. Amsoil ss in europe can't be sold and only their european car formula witch is a normal synthetic u can buy here. Why? Because here in europe(for example germany) there are low for have write on the bottle 100%synthetic and amsoil isn't 100%synthetic. Only motul 8100 and some redline here in europe can be sold as 100% synthetic. So talk for your country only.
You are 100% wrong. Amsoil sells SS Oil in Europe and Germany. Amsoil oil is 100% synthetic oil.
Make America’s oil great again! 🇺🇸
Oil is very important, but cheap oil filters will allow dirt and other contaminants to flow around inside the motor clogging all the small oil lines.
Agree. Cheap Oil filters will have negative effect on oil and engine components.
@@JohnSmith-wd9rc Absolutely! WIX filters are hard to find where I live but we do have a NAPA which re-brands WIX. Stay far away from the cheap Frams.
@@scurfie2343 make sure if you want the Wix quality you get the Napa Gold line filters. The lower lines like Silver are made by Wix but to a lower standard to meet price point.
I use Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Extended with Mobil 1 extended filter. I change both at 13,000-14,000 miles or 20,000kms. Oil is not quite black at this point, but still has a reddish tinge. I lose roughly 0.25 quarts over this interval.
How many miles on your vehicle?
This is a great video, thanks for the enlightening tutorial Sir. I have a recent import Subaru Legacy B4 ej20 engine, 2.0R non turbo version. It came in at 88000km and drove till 93000km. Eversince I parked it away, it had started shaking. It started off with a jittery vibration in the engine section, and spatters of water from the two tail pipes. It then started to smoke very heavy and lost power a lot, at one point it burnt all the oil in the car I topped it up and it has burnt it again in less than 20km. It smokes a lot and I noticed the tail pipes have black lubricant inside them if I wipe their inside after the smoking. It also keeps smoking from the tail pipes even after 10mins after switching it off, I can see the smoke coming out. Yesterday I also saw oil now in the throttle body and air chamber. Could this be a clogged rings issue, or mine is much worse
Are you losing any coolant?
repairvehicle no, it’s unfortunately not losing any coolant. I have checked the coolant levels they remain the same. It also isn’t throwing any check engine light or overheating
It's very possible that you have clogged up rings. Also, valve seals could be big time damaged. What color is your engine on the inside?
repairvehicle. I have a qn lad. I have a Toyota Avensis 1.8 petrol that does 1'000 miles approx. per oil fill. I know Toyotas run hot but i have heard other channels say that the oil pressure valve can get gunked up which will result in oil seeping through to the exhaust system and therefore burning. Carb cleaner can get this valve working again or a replacement valve of course. The PCV valve is what i'm referring to. Now i'm just going through the process of elimination here with my vehicle so i'm not saying that the piston rings ain't chewed up. There's no vibration as you described may be the case so i'm gonna clean the PCV valve or even replace it cos their quite cheap. I do know that the VVTI Toyota engine (mine being a 2002 model) is known for packing up, maybe cos folks don't check the oil. I've had toyotas most of my life and "all" of them burned oil but not as bad as this one. Let me know what you think. And btw, you gave a very good explanation about the pistons and rings, i've never seen that before, so i decided to sub. Take care.
oil pressure valve can fail, and its the result of oil deposits around the valve ( not enough detergent to keep in clean). Stock PCV is valve is the result of oil being cooked up in the valve or too much evaporation and its clogs up PCV valve. All engine related problems are direct results of low quality oil. Sometimes good quality oil is used for to long and it will have all kind of negative effects on the engine, including oil consumption and so on.
@Steve H. Much obliged for your advice.
Medium price oil is ok. . But you must change it 4000 miles max, its full of dirt by then which cloggs engine. .
The best most expensive oil is NO GOOD full of crap at 10,000 miles plus. .
Regular oil change is secret, learn to do it at home and change regularly. Theres NO other way.
Have you tried best Oil? Have you seen lab results for metal wear numbers from best Oil? Have you heard of synthetic oil filters that have much greater capacity to filter out Oil and their are not made from paper like cheap Oil filters?
www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?zo=5257753
Thanks again for the informative video. Using your help to bring a car back from the brink!
Very educational, but many have said, if you change often 3-4k miles and chose the correct viscosity, cheap oils are fine. I concur with them.
I think we have different understanding of what cheap Oil is and that's why we have different opinions.
Depends on the engine design also. Some have problems with heat dissipation so lower evaporation oil will have less consumption. I switched to full synthetic oil from conventional and consumption went down 20%. Nothing else was changed. No other explanation. Monitoring consumption to see if it improves as synthetic may clean engine. And btw I changed oil regularly but the engine design builds up heat.
BG EPR can clean up the rings. It stopped my 06 F150 from burning oil. It now has over 200,000 miles.
how many miles were on the ford when you did BG?
The truck had the 5.4 3 valve engine when I first bought it had 179,000 miles the previous owner didn't take very good care of it first thing I did was give it a full timing job and new high-volume oil pump. There was a lot of varnish inside the engine and it was burning about a half quart of oil every 5000 miles. I ran the BG EPR through the truck twice over the course of two oil changes using Pennzoil Platinum. After the second BG treatment I couldn't even tell the truck was burning oil anymore underneath the valve covers most of the varnish was gone. I still drive the truck every day currently as it sits it has 202,000 miles after using the BG EPR I was also using the BG MOA oil additive which is supposed to be a conditioner I believe it helped in the cleaning process as well.
I’m a fan of changing the oil early. Can you tell me for what reason would you need to change the oil even though a oil change Analysis shows the oil is still good.
Numbers are high for wear metal, that's when I choose to change oil sooner or use different brand
So I have a question. I have that 3.5 Toyota piston in my Lexus. I've done extensive research and reading on top quality oil on BITOG the last year and whether to use anti friction modifiers, additives etc. to quiet lifter tick and possible for knock or piston slap during cold weather startups which eventually disappears.. I've tried most popular brands of oil. (Castrol Edge, Edge Extended, Valvoline Max Life., Pennzoil Platinum. Mobil 1, QSUD, QSFS.) Haven't done Royal Purple, Supertech, Havoline, Amsoil and a dew orhers yet.) I like the Quaker State SOPUS product for its moly content 250 ppm I believe, its longevity in clarity and protection and price. I've ran every additive you can think of. Prolong, STP, Lucas, Risilone, Bar's, Marvels Mystery Oil with mixed result in quieting things and added protection. Haven't tried Liquid Moly yet.. I have also been running 2 stroke oil in my fuel at either 500:1 or 640:1 ratios 1 oz per 5 gallons of gas to provide better upper cylinder lubrication, fuel pump lubrication, gas mileage, etc.
My question is in that 3.5 Toyota piston with the little holes. If there is sufficient detergents in the crankcase oil, and the two stroke oil mixed at the ratios I listed. Will that clean up the piston crowns and the right detergents in the crankcase oil most likely clean up any potential carbon those little holes if they are clogged for any reason due to coking or any other reason?
What year is your Toyota?
Mileage on your Toyota?
How often were you changing oil?
I need this information in order to give the information pertaining to your questions.
2009 Lexus RX 350 3.5L motor. Factory calls for 5W 30 Full Synthetic. Mobil 1 or TOGO 5W 30 preferably. I live in northern NJ
Purchased vehicle at 167,500 mi. Last June of 2020. (Forgot original owner service record at dealership.) Dumped dealership oil fill after 1000 mi.
From my ownership at 167,500 mi. OCI 07/20/20 Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5W30.1qt. Lucas Oil Stablizer to full mark Ran for 3k OCI. 08/20/20 Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5W 30 ran for 3k OCI. Added Rislone oil stabilizer Hy perlube.
As fall approached last year. Noticed ticking/slapping developing on startups below 60 degrees. Bad slap/tick below 45 degrees. (Apparently this is not uncommon with these motors.)
Decided to start doing my own OC's after weighing the cost of what Valvoline was charging me an upwards of $100 each change. Been using exclusively Castrol Edge or Extended Edge 20,000 mi. 5W30 since with the exception of one OCI until recently.
08/20/20. Ran Castrol Edge Extended OCI for 10k mi. Ticking slap worsened as weather got colder. 09/20. Castrol Edge Extended mixed with 10% of 6.2 quarts Rislone High Mileage Formula Engine Treatment Conditioner and Cleaner seemed to improve and shorten the longevity and duration of the tick/slap. Initially after this OCI. I observed slap/tick would dissipate after 10 sec. from startup. As this OCI continued into the 2k to 4k mi. range, tick/slap would continue until reached operating temp of 210 degrees. Changed at around 8k mi.
11/20 Castrol Edge Extended but in 5W 20 since 5W 30 wasn't available. 10% of 6.2 quarts mix of MMO, STP oil regular treatment with traces of ZDDP and Rislone Hy Per Lube. Seemed to help.
This is where this OCI and motor ran the quietest through all of its OCI. Only tick/slap for 5 to 10 sec. Upon startup. Ran silky smooth. Ran for about 8k mi.
Questioned if I was running too thin with the 5W 20 mixed with the MMO. Also had STP regular oil treatment mixed in. Was quieting things because of small amounts of ZDDP possibly? Or maybe because of the MMO and better flow due to potential oil thinning and better pressure flow on cold starts. Or was it because of better film strength of Hy Perlube? I may have used Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W30 formula on this change as well. Again. Not sure. Forget...
01/21 Castrol Edge again. 10% MMO/ 1/2 quart Hy Perlube. Ran relatively smooth and quiet until about 1k. Noise and warm up tick/slap until operating temp again. Started reading more about esters. Molys, Graphite, "Nano" technologies. Changed early in 03/01 around 2,500 mi into OCI.
03/01/21 Did Castrol Edge 5W 30 with 10% Prolong Engine Treatment Super Duty. Nothing else. No difference in performance or noise. (Yes I now know Chlorinated Pariffins leads to acidity and corrosion.) Figured I would try it to see if it would benefit in any way.
Decided to try something different during this OCI. Switched to Castrol Edge 0W 40 European Castrol (Since I couldn't find 0W 30 other than M1.) on this last OCI. Mixed with 10% Prolong Super Duty. 700 mi. into it with the only change being that startup was quiet. Well not quiet but muted or muffled for the first 200 miles.Then went clacky again. So that rules viscosity out I think. (I need to read up on viscosity index more.)
I am also running a verified experiment where I am putting 2 stroke TCW3 rated oil in the gas at a ratio of 500:1 or 5 ounces per every 5 gallons of gas to clean up the ring packs, valve seats, fuel injectors, combustion chamber, etc. Taking the place of putting MMO in the gas. The results almost showed up immediately within the first 2 tanks of gas. Right before I switched to my 0W 40 OCI. Doing this method I went from 17/21 mpg to 20/23.5 mpg for a week. Startups were quicker, motor was super quiet with no vibration at stop lights fully warmed. So quiet that I couldn't hear the motor running idle from the drivers seat at stop lights. I also started gaining 1/8th tank of gas on daily fill ups and saving some $$$ at the pump.
Then I did the 0W 40 change recently and the MPG dropped to 17/20 and pretty much stayed stuck on 20 mpg.
After this OCI I switched and am sticking to QSUD/QSFS 10W 30 (since 5W 30 is difficult to find around me and its summer time so cold flow is not impacted.) Mixed with a quart of QSFS 5W 30 HM. Each OCI has been changed at 5K MI.
I have a few jugs of QSUD 5W 40 sitting around I plan to use. My plan/regiment now is to run either Pennzoil Platinum 5W 30 or QSFS 10w 30 in summer months mixed with 1 quart of QSFS HM or Pennzoil Platinum HM. for 5k OCI'S then into September through April. Run any full synthetic whether Mobil 1, QSFS, Castrol, or Pennzoil in 0W 30 or 0W 40 weight/viscosity depending on availability throughout late fall/winter for 5K mi. To possibly 7k mi. I haven't done a UOA test yet for wear metals. Will maybe consider adding Ceratec to oil or liquid moly.
I am running mid grade 89 octane fuel (Manufacturer calls for Premium 91 or higher) with 640:1 2 stroke oil in fuel 1 ounce per every 5 gallons of fuel.
Oil additives don't work. Have you see a proof from oil additives companies website? None does not exist.
Most of the oil additives companies have been fined by the government for false advertising.
I have see video where a person tried oil additive in his engine and results were really bad. 3 times more engine wear with oil additives than without it. He did oil analysis before and after.
Using 2 stroke oil in 3.5 engine is extremely bad idea, carbon build up is not avoidable, 2 stroke is not engineered for cars engines. If you want upper cylinder lubrication there are products formulated specifically for this purpose, some work well and other barely.
Every brand of oil has different levels of detergent. Also, withing brand oil have different levels of detergent. There are different types of detergent being used by oil companies. There is two types of detergent and majority of companies use one type and few oil companies use other type. Which is better? it depends.
Low in cost motor oils will have minimum required and higher in cost will have 3 to 4 times more than minimum.
To remove 100% of carbon build up from pistons crowns, requires pistons removal.
However, using high detergent oil will help clean up the mess. Have you seen my video about Amsoil oil filter? th-cam.com/video/3yR0OJaHBiU/w-d-xo.html
Also, using detergent based engine flush before oil change will help with carbon build up too. th-cam.com/video/a_FCr7YktVc/w-d-xo.html
ATTENTION FORD FANS: Scotty Kilmer says the 5.0L oil consumption problem is a Ford class defect that Ford won't admit to. All of Ford's work arounds don't address or fix the real problem..... which is that Ford used an aluminum block on these 5.0 engines, and didn't sleeve the cylinders. They used a ceramic coating in these cylinders (to save a few pennies), and this coating is either failing or it isn't working as it's supposed to, thus causing the massive oil consumption problem.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing.
I use pennzoil 5w30 in my 1999 ford ranger I bought new and it now has 201,000 miles on it and doesn’t use any more oil now than it did when it was new. I change it every 4000 mile plus I have had a few oil analysts done and they say my engine wear is normal and it looks to be in good shape.
What was the numbers for metal wear?
best explanation ever thanks a lot. i have subscribed
I use Diesel engine oil on my Turbo petrol engine for 6 year.6 year past no problems.
I run Amsoil signature series 5W-30 only
In my built 2015 Subaru STi
Nice I’m currently running royal
Purple hps my rx7 only holds 3.7 qts so it’s not that expensive
Great video ! I learned a long time ago about oil, cheap oil burn more, expensive oil last long, change oil when it's needed, motor will last ! A great way to check the life of your oil :
by the color - not looking like honey anymore, darker.
the smell - burnt is not good.
the texture - run ur fingers thru the oil on the dip stick - smooth, gritty, sticky ? This was taught to me by a great mechanic. The oil is the blood of the motor. Just like our bodies. Give blood, become an unsung hero. Change your oil save your motor !
Donate blood save a life save many lives !!!
I do because I can and ask nothing in return.
oil analysis is the only way to tell if oil is doing job protecting engine from wear. You can have that is still good but wear on the engine is high. What is the use of this type of oil if cannot protect engine from wear?
Would you take a look at Shaeffers full synthetic and Lubrication Engineers oil? Spendy but super high quality and really good for problematic equipment ( engines, transmissions, etc. that have problems with thermal and friction problems and have known design defects ).
Schaeffer Oil is not that good. Pennzoil Ulta platinum is 100% better than schaeffer.
@@repairvehicle what are you basing that on, is it the performance or the price point? Pennzoil may be more mainstream but Schaeffers is not junk.
Performance. Many people claim that schaeffer oil great, I have not found any data that supports the claim. So far even schaeffer cannot provide any data that their Oil is better than competitors.
It's not just the detergent factor. It's also the oils ability to handle the heat before breaking down and causing sludge which is in those rings.
Only True synthetic capable handling heat without breaking down. That’s why airplanes use only true synthetic oil
Now that you say it, makes sense. I’m going to stay with Mobil synthetic. My brother has a 3.5l maxima and now is burning 2 quarts every week for using 20w-50.
Jose Barajas bad pcv
What year max? 02 03 had problems.
@@cle569 Nope.
Excellent commentary and information, well done! Greetings from Western Canada! 👍😎
Thank you
Thanks for excellent explanatory. If I am currently experiencing high oil consumption on my rav4 . Can the issue by sorted out by using the genuine oil .
Mileage, year, oil change intervals?
How much oil consumption?
No
This is mainly due to the 600 grit finish on modern engines. In the days when engineers built engines they had what is called a volcano finish on the bores which retained the oil on the bore at all times. A volcano finish is very rough which requires a chrome top ring as the second ring scrapes the oil mainly.
called honing.
i'm very glad i made the switch to AMSOIL
Pennszoil Platinum is good too if you don't want to spend that much. I had a car that was burning oil, when making the switch to Pennszoil Platinum it stopped. I wasn't expecting that.
Quaker State Ultimate Durability is a good synthetic oil too! It's a shell product just like pennzoil.
It's formulated differently, it's not even anywhere close to Pennzoil Ulta platinum.
@@repairvehicle what's the difference between pennszoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum? I would get Ultra but I'm not going to order it I thought mabe a car dealership carry it
Ultra has more additives to keep your engine cleaner, better protect engine from wear it last longer between Oil changes.
@5:50 - 5-30 for the Ford 3.5 V6 ecoboost but some people were using non-synthetic 5-30 which is a problem. Less of a problem with the smaller ecoboost engines because they have a 5-20 specification which is at least semi-synthetic.
Lots of good info. But "high octane" fuel in an engine that doesn't require it always results in extra deposits. It doesn't clean anything.
AustrianAnarchy how? it sounds so opposite. does the higher quality gas evaporate and combust hotter thus leaving stuff behind?
Because it resists detonation to the point of not burning completely. It is not "higher quality" either. Octane rating only tells you what compression range it is for. High octane is for high compression. It is such a common misconception that there is very easy to look up.
I like the features, the look and it’s loaded with options and all. But I’ve read sooo many reviews on this model and the most obvious is the engine/oil problems. U are so right when it comes to which and what oil u put in and use. I don’t have this vehicle, but I’m interested in one. I’m a believer in u take care of ur vehicle, it will take care of you. So again, would you buy the Chevy Equinox? what oil would you use? And more importantly, would you go to the dealership and have them change it? Thanx for ur answers and keep up the great advice.
No, I would not buy this vehicle. Here are the reasons
1. Oil consumption
2. Carbon build up due to direct injection.
3. Timing chain and cam phasers issues.
Signature series oil, I use only.
No, I would not let dealer change oil.
Would you consider buy a Ford Edge 2016-18 model?
Ford edge has same problems as chevy.
Could u recommend a SUV (mid size) between 2015-2019?
Let me ask you these.
1. For what purpose are you planning to use suv?
2. Is 4x4 must?
Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 best oil ever in my turbocharged gdi! 95k miles with clean internals
How is your oil consumption?
@@repairvehicle I can't answer that precisely as I vent from 3 port to atmosphere. breather, pcv delete & oil cap clean side separator all vented to atmosphere. My only concern would be carbon buildup in which i have NONE due to none of the nasty blow-by recirculating back into my engine. (stupid emissions)
So my oil consumption isn't something I am monitoring but more so making sure my oil changes are RELIGIOUSLY done at 3000 miles / no more than 3500 miles. Simple!
Use a PAO-based (Group IV) or ester-based (Group V) synthetic oil - There are exceptions, such as Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which is a Group III (natural gas) base oil
Other Recommendations:
RedLine 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)
Cerma 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)
Cerma X 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)
AMSOIL Signature 5W-30 (PAO)
Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)
AMSOIL Euro Formula Low-SAPS 5W-30 (non-PAO; they have mid- and high-SAPS formulas, but contribute more non-carbon deposits and wreck catalytic converters)
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (non-PAO, designed for diesel engines, but low levels of calcium and very good test reports) - this oil is known to foam under race conditions, so avoid if you run your engine to redline for extended sessions
I use 5w 20 or 0w 20 pennzoil ultra on a 2009 honda accord 2.4l and I burn exactly 1qt between oil change..
Were you using ultra platinum since it was new?
Always add 200 grams of refrigeration synthetic polyol-ester PETRONAS SUNISO SL or FUCHS RENISO TRITON SE/SEZ or MOBIL ARCTIC EAL or ERRECOM or PLANET ELF ACD oil with ISO 22 or 32 or 46 viscosity. And your engine will no longer consume engine oil, will restore the elasticity of oil seals.
You could have removed the rings to show better the ring oil holes
I am working on separate video to show just that and expose manufacturers bad engineering.
I only ran synthetic oil and changed out every 5 thousand miles. 2012 2.5 Rav4 and now I'm burning a quart every 500 miles.I only have 178 thousand miles on the car.
It's because full synthetic oil is not synthetic at all. It should have been labeled as synthetic blend. Full synthetic oil should be changed every 3k miles max and then people would never know what is oil consumption.
1 quart every 500 miles??!!! Holy 💨 smokes. You might consider doing quick oil changes every 1K for a year with Amsoil OE oil or run an engine flush from Amsoil or LiquiMoly. You have a severe oil burning issue. I only figure it out at 125K and went crazy with the oil change intervals using Mobil 1 every 2K-3K. Sometimes I would use cheap oils and run it for 1K only before switching back to Mobil 1. I only started using Amsoil this year. Almost 210K miles.
If I were you, start using Amsoil right away and start doing quick oil changes every 1K.
@@dashcamjourney4599 Changed to 5W30 blended oil and now up to 1200 miles per quart. Assumed that at 178k all engine tolerances have opened up. If the engine dies good rebuilt engines are available in my area to install. Will post again if i kill the engine.
@@webmastercaribou7570 That’s pretty good for that Toyota Engine, which motor oil are you using? Thanks
@@dashcamjourney4599 The last oil change was done at Jiffy Lube, for all i know it could be anything. But was told that it was Pennzoil blended mix. I was in a hurry and needed to use a drive through service. They don't have a good reputation as a company. So it may be 90 weight gear oil as bevis and but head did the service. Sorry i can't be more accurate.
I have found that engines the use more oil tend to foul catalytic converters, and oxygen sensors. Both my sisters and I have generation 2 Toyota Prius Hybrids. They typically add at least 1 quart, sometimes 2 quarts between 5000 mile oil changes. My car, for some reason, only uses about 1/2 to 2/3 quarts between changes. They have both had to replace catalytic converters, after about 160,000 miles. I have 268,000 miles on my Prius, and have never replaced either a catalytic converter, nor an oxygen sensor. I attribute that to low oil consumption. Another consideration is the extreme pressure additives used in oils to give it its API classifications. A lower classification oil may be better, if it lacks an additive that may cause harm to those emission control components. Especially if your engine burns a lot of oil.
Vincent Robinette what is different in your habits than your sisters' ?
@@jamesmedina2062 A little more freeway miles, and a little more conservative driving helps keep the engine RPM down, so the oil doesn't mist quite so much, and carry over through the positive crankcase ventilation system. It could also be that my engine has slightly less ring gap, reducing blow by.
Vincent Robinette other people's habits are hard to know unless you actually witness them driving but I think my mom cares nothing about her water temp and warming up her car. Most women in fact want to sit higher and think predominately about safety, where my obsession is the happiness (& longevity) of my ride!
Vincent Robinette ring gal different for different model year Prius? What is city/hwy mpg?
@@jamesmedina2062 I get about 54 miles per gallon in winter, and about 60 in the summer. 2006 Toyota Prius, front tires 44 PSI, rear tires at 42 PSI Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires. These drive trains are so efficient, and the cars so aerodynamic, that tire rolling resistance is a major factor. I have my front end alignment set straight ahead, not the factory specified .1 degree tow in, and I have my camber set almost straight up. Conservative driving. If I "hyper mile", I've gotten as high as 78 MPG averaged over 680 miles on one tank of gas.
Now i know when that happen to my engine i will add motor oil additives and run a couple miles and change the oil right away. And im gonna try not to pic a wrong engine oil! Thank you so much for this information!
A lousy manufactured engine or too much abused engines will always burn oil. Regardless which brand of oil you use.
Please watch my video again and comment again. What you saying is incorrect.
@@repairvehicle damaged cylinders and valve guides will allow oil into the combustion zone. That's what we typically refer to burning oil. The oil comes out the tail pipe in blue smoke.
Damaged cylinder walls is the result of the clogged up Oil rings.
Were you using 15k miles Oil from when vehicle was brand new?
Where is the proof that holes were too small?
I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze 1.4 turbo with 125,000 miles. Doesn’t burn a drop of oil. I use royal purple and change regularly.
That is the problem, people don’t maintain their vehicles so they don’t last as long as they could.
How often do you change your oil?
repairvehicle I change the oil every 5,000. I also don’t drive the car hard. I rarely go over 3500 rpm.
Which Royal purple oil are you using?
repairvehicle I use the regular 5w-30 synthetic oil they have. Not the HPS. I might try valvoline next time though.
Michael Vibonese Valvoline no good, bud. Try Motul 8100 series oil on EBay and you won't be disappointed.
I have heard that 100% synthetic motor oils have much better detergents for cleaning and preventing sludge/varnish formations compared to a typical full synthetic oil from an auto part store. Is this true? Thank you and hope you can answer this for everyone can know. Great video.
Richard Ojeda no and yes all oils have diff amounts of detergents
If stored, shake the bottles every once in awhile and also before adding to the engine. It’s just the additives
I have 2009 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L with 192,000 miles. Unfortunately prior owner did not get piston replaced, thus has high rate of oil consumption (needs 1 quart every approx. 300 miles!!). From what I know, the oil used was 5-20w synthetic blend at oil changes. Is it possible to see some improvement by switching to a full-synthetic or shall I just carry a case of it in the trunk until the engine dies a horrible death?
In this video you find answers and ask more questions th-cam.com/video/nX2E_b0zFrk/w-d-xo.html
100% synthetic oil has been used by others and reported to me that it has lowered their oil consumption. Will it, possibly.
I am becoming convinced of that! When I purchased the vehicle, I had Mobil-1 Synthetic Blend when I first changed the oil. It was burning approx. 1 quart every 274 miles. I then switched to fully synthetic Mobil-1 and fuel economy as well as miles increased between adding a quart (average 316 miles per quart). I now switched to Amsoil XL yesterday, and will monitor miles until the next quart needs adding. I figure if oil consumption is substantially reduced with the next one or two quarts of Amsoil XL, I will change the oil once again and use only Amsoil from now on!
@@b.thompson9176 Hows the oil loss coming along. Is it improved?
MUCH improved!! I switched from Amsoil XL to Signature a few months after my last post, and about a month ago switched to the manufacturer's recommended 0-20 weight and I now get just under 900 miles per quart of oil - perhaps even more mileage if I maintain speeds of 65 to 70mph in the freeway which has a limit of 80mph. Usually I gain more miles per quart if I also keep rpms between 2,000 to 2,500. I am no doubt convinced of Amsoil and will never swtich back to anything less than pure synthetic for any if my present or future vehicles. Contrary to what some "experts" say, I have had no leaks from seals or increased oil consumption from switching to pure synthetic. I am positive the car may have been destroyed by now if I kept using conventional or synthetic blend. No doubt about it!
what can cause oil loss on 2016 Kia Soul 1.6 liter it's not much but on a long
125 mile journey will lose less than 1/4 qt. It has 102,000 miles. Will liguid Molly fuel additive help unplug oil in Piston hole
Are you original owner?
How often do you change your oil?
Has car been overheated?
Oil consumption and decarbonizing oil rings works? How to clean oil rings without removing pistons
th-cam.com/video/ussxoGWA-5I/w-d-xo.html
1qt every thousand miles. if I could be so lucky lmao. Mine burn 1qt every 300 or so. I'm doing oil changes about as quick as I fill a tank of gas in my Prius. Super annoying! An issue caused by a previous owner though not me. I always use high-quality oil and do my own oil changes every 3 months or so or as needed. I don't drive all that much. I'm going to start doing an engine flush every oil change and soak the pistons with some chem dip while using b-12 in the fuel tank. If this doesn't fucking destroy my engine due to broken off sludge deposits clogging something up then the engine should be pretty clean after about a year of doing this.
You should NOT use oil or fuel additives!! Use mobile or shell gasoline and do not take short trips. You cannot feel extra vibration from carbon build up. If you could, the knock sensor will detect that..
You can feel carbon buildup. Then its time for a long drive or an italian tuneup. Just drive max speed for a few minutes.
It doesn't work
Gr8 video. Really helped to understand the main reason for oil consumption. I tried to find information with high detergent but unable to do so on the bottles. Can you help me understand how can I find the best oil for my car. Its Audi Q5
What is the mileage?
@@repairvehicle 70k miles
Most of the companies will not say anything about detergent in oil or oil evaporation rate in %, on the bottle. You have look at companies website and their test results or just technical data. You are not going to find easily information that is best for your q5. I will share with you information that I have not posted on my channel yet. European formulas in general are garbage formulation when it comes protecting engine from wear. Some companies better than others and some companies really do bad job at creating that protects engine from wear.
When it comes to European formulation oil you have to change oil every 6 months or 4k miles which comes first if you drive highway, otherwise change oil sooner. If I had European car I would never use European formulation oil. In the next 6-9 months I should have test results available on my channel to show people how bad European formulation is. My coworker has q5 and was changing oil every 10k miles driving highway 100 miles round trip every day. First his engine started consuming oil after warranty then around 120k miles engine failed completely because it was so worn out due to 10k miles oil change intervals. His Audi was brand new when he bought, he ended up replacing engine with used engine $5000 and $2000 for labor.
@@repairvehicle Thanks for sharing the information
Very informative, thank you
my mom has a 2008 Camry, 4 cylinder with 48000 miles. oil always changed on time with conventional at dealer. the car was burning 1 quart every 1000 miles. she took to an independent shop who put synthetic oil in it. now it does not burn oil!!
What a awesome true story. Thank you for sharing and commenting.
@@repairvehicle i am sure it was not Amsoil tho
I have ton of comments from people on my channel who were using full synthetic oil and having oil consumption until they switched to Amsoil, and oil consumption went away.
i always thought that this was caused because people don't change their oil on time and is far more likely than cheap oil.
I had a car where I changed Oil every 3k miles I drove 700-1000 miles week. I was using conventional Oil like Mobil 1 and changing oil about every month to every other month. In about 50k miles on the car, my engine started using 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles.
I drive a 1998 Honda Crv with 220,000km. I change the oil every 5,000km and use conventional oil. My car doesn't burn any oil, why is that?
Are you the original owner?
Your engine does burns oil. Conventional Oil has extremely high evaporation rate.
I can tell you that conventional oil is fine for older vehicles. You have to remember that modern vehicles have much looser clearances than older vehicles this is to reduce the drag coefficient. Also modern engine operate at higher temperatures and this is where you need a oil that can resist these high temperatures and stop oil from baking on the rings.
Car companies now are now making their oil rings with less compression to reduce drag and that causing problems with oil consumption. Oil has to meet certain API baselines with their additive packages. Any popular brand oil is fine, one will not make your engine last longer or run better.
How come with one brand I have 4 times more engine wear than with other brand, If brand doesn't matter? Looks like you don't know that brand makes difference.
@@repairvehicle Thanks for the kind words.
I use pennzoil pureplus 5w-30 keeps pistons up to 40% cleaner. At Walmart for $23 cant beat it. It’s up there with Amsoil.
Pennzoil is better at keeping it clean than other brands. Not anywhere close where Amsoil is. How often do you change your oil?
pennzoil ultra platinum, not pennzoil platinum correct?
Ultra platinum.
I change my oil every 6,000 I double my service intervals I would go longer but my 24 valve eclipse gets small mounts of gas in tho oil after 5,000 miles. But yeah Pennzoil Ultra platinum is up there with amsoil very very close yes amsoil is better but for half the price i would go with pennzoil I have just hit 200,000. The oil comes out barley even dark an when you open my valve cover you would think it’s a brand new motor. Plan to get 300,000 easy.
@@iamaaron____ good man! good man!
Im at 96k miles on my 2016 turbo Gdi & change my oil every 3k. my internals are incredibly clean
Liqui Moly High Tech 5w40. Keep in mind that some hydrocracked oils perform better that PAO's in terms of evaporation and flash points.
I no one thing a gdi engine is bad at making your oil look bad the manufacturer says to change oil every 7500 miles but i change mine every 3000 i could not go that long those engines are bad on oil
Your engine is cooked with motorcraft Oil. It's severely damaged and worn-out. Motorcraft Oil is only good for 2200 miles, after that severe engine wear.
I have lab results from ecoboost to as a proof. You have dealer lie that you believe in.
Your newer engine runs hotter than older engines and your turbos cooks Oil like it's in the oven. But you go ahead keep believing dealer lies, I have Lab results from Lab. You have nothing except lie from dealer.
I have sent an oil from 2016 ecoboost to the lab at 2200 miles. My Ecoboost has 18000 miles. Lab results on my channel. But enjoy ford lies, it wouldn't be too long before you will be getting another loan. I have lab results from two different Ford trucks, motorcraft Oil is garbage. Enjoy Ford lies and keep believing that your oil is not cooked. You have chose to believe Ford lies, but you would not believe facts, lab results.
Exquisite explanation thank you very much
You are welcome
Unfortunately when I bought my 08 Accord it was burning 1L every 1000km with only 130k km. Honda had a recall due to it being extremely common that the piston rings would stick from carbon buildup.
I wonder if using Amsoil could have prevented this despite it being a problem on Honda's end.
I think the previous owner went to Mr. Lube
Using Marvel Mystery Oil would have prevented the problem :)
It wouldn't have prevented.
Your answer is to trade it in for a better vehicle. Nothing can beat that.
@@repairvehicle what is your opinion on marvel mystery oil.
Oil additives don't work, they do more harm than good. Any time you add Oil additive, you change motor Oil formulation. Motor oil is formulated to extreme accuracy otherwise they will damage engine metal components and seals. Oil additive companies claim their products work, however they failed to provide any proof. Only proof they have is people's experience. If these Oil additives products legit then these companies would have provided Data to back up their claim. It's not hard to take Oil from the engine and send it to the lab for testing, to show people before Oil additive and after oil additive. These companies make billions in revenue and cannot provide any proof. By the way, every Oil additives company has been taken to the court by the government and fined for incorrect information they provide on their website that doesn't work.
How does a fuel additive effect the piston rings to the point of dissolving all that carbon and oil build up to clear those clogged holes??
it does not affect piston rings.
I rebuilt my engine 10 years ago at just under 400 thosand km because it was burning oil I use the cheapest oil and filter i can get i just change the filter every month and oil every six months or sooner depending on the colour 10 years 200 thousand km no problems but hey if your oil don't have enough detergents just add a bottle of your favourite laundry detergent to your oil just kidding nice video
@Mike Smith which soap ??
I use Chevron Delo 400 5w40 diesel oil in my 2010 Forester. Plenty of detergent. It's rated SN for gas engines also. Its helped with the oil burning and also stopped the piston slap when cold. It took about a month for the slap to go away. I haven't figured out why yet. If it was because of the heavier weight I would think it would go away almost immediately.
It's not a piston slap. You have other engine issues and Diesel Oil is just a bandage to cover the issue.
@@repairvehicle
What other issues? I went from regular 5w30 to the 5w40. I have about 3k on the engine since the slap stopped. Wrist pin or bearing knock? But I would think that I would still get a knocking on cold start. Even if only for a few seconds. 5w40 isn't that much thicker than the 5w30. Not so much thicker that it would stay put all night in a cold winter. Heck, the car has sat days and was quiet on the cold start. I just don't get it.
Maybe the high detergent has loosened the rings up and that has cured the slap?
I'm interested in what others think it could ha e been if it wasn't the infamous Subaru piston slap.
2010 Subaru Forester, 2.5L SOHC, non-turbo
How many miles on it and what was your oil consumption?
Buddy... u have my subscription.... keep up the excellent work🤝👍
Edit: Currently I own a 2001 sl1 Saturn... I had a 1998 99? Manual Saturn ... where I learned my lesson about 'oil consumption '.... pushed it because the engine performed... highway to e way... preadolescent thoughts thinking ' it'll last 4EVER!!!!... Made back to my home town... CLUCK CLUNCK... CLU CLUU. ... ZZzzz...
Locked up on... mid brake .... Didn't know till then that oil evaporates.... *Note to novice car owners **** ... THE OIL U PUT IN THE ENGINE IS NOT!!! IS NOT!... COOKING OIL....
Thank you!
I prefer vegetable oil in my engines.
Sure, I have to disassemble them a couple of times a year, but they develop a tasty crust on the piston domes that keeps me regular and is low in saturated fats.
You have been brainwashed by mosanto and the grain industry. The only thing that good long term for an engine is Butter ! Can you milk a cow: Yes Can you milk a sunflower: that what i thought ! Saturated fat is essential for an engine. Get your science right
Greetings from Missouri Ozarks. Me and my kin run pure bacon grease in all our gasoline engines, even Grampa's '39 Ford tractor. Ever so often, ya have a grease fire, but damn! Just git er done, son...
@@Kmarty2000,
Ahh yes ... I think I may have been behind you at a local traffic light.
Your exhaust smelled like a Bacon Lettuce and Tomato sandwich.
i bought a 99 Camry with the 2.2 from my friend 2 years ago and have had trouble with loud startups like tapping and knocking when its cold. its cold in Maine lol. he was using cheap Walmart super tech oil because it is only 5 buck a quart. that oil caused a lot of gunk and carbon to form in the engine. I changed it to mobile 1 full synthetic and that helped with the loud starts a little. i decided to give royal purple a shot. it costs a kidney to buy but it has stopped the loud start ups and just after 1000 miles the oil was black. i think it cleans a little too much because all my oil leaks are far worse. the motor runs smoother and throttle response is on point. never ever use cheap oil I never will.
I might add it has 265000 miles
Good video as always! I am using Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5w-20 for my Acura J37A2 engine. I change oil by "maintenance minder system" which is every 4500 miles or 8 months. I buy Pennzoil Platinum for $22 or Ultra for $25 per 5 QT Jug. I don't need to extend oil change interval, so would it be any good for me to switch to Amsoil or you would recommend another oil for my engine?
Amsoil signature series has a lot more anti wear additives than any competitors. Also, it a lot more detergent than any other competitors. I am using Amsoil and recommend Amsoil to everyone who is looking for best engine protection.
Take a look at this if you interested w.amsoil.com/newsstand/motor-oil/articles/smashing-the-industry-standard/?zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle I here you, but does it really make sense for me to purchase $12+ per bottle oil(and I need 5) to run in my car when OCI is less than 5k miles?
It comes down to personal preference and what matters the most to you. I don't drive as much as I use to but I still use signature series. I know my engine is protected.
@@repairvehicle I see. So would Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra still be good oil to use on my Acura when I change oil every 5000 or less?
It should be OK under normal driving conditions
What if compression, pcv, and valve seals are ok, but there is a lot of blue smoke and a lot of oil consumption. Could it be the oil rings? The engine in my car has overheated once. The engine does not have a turbo.
Overheated engine rings no longer seal properly and will cause oil consumption