'Old Skool' method was to disconnect the battery, fill the engine TO THE BRIM with diesel, and leave it soaking overnight. Drain completely, fresh oil, run for 30 minutes then fresh oil + filter...
Did this with Castrol degreaser on a friend's old truck. Like 5 gallons. Left it full while he went out of town for a few days. Drained it when he got back home, put cheap oil in with a new filter, started it, let it run for a few minutes, check to make sure the oil wasn't completely getting destroyed by the degreaser, drove it around for about 10 minutes, drained the oil, put new cheap oil in with a quart of Rislone oil additive (basically 5W-30 oil with some really heavy detergents). Change the oil and filter again in 1000 me, came out totally black, and his oil pressure problems were gone, the valve train noise was gone, and under the valve covers was really surprisingly clean. Obviously this is the kind of thing you would only do if the next step would be to rebuild the engine or junk the car.
My old man is a mechanic by trade too. He always takes the extra time to look at other things that may or may not cause problems down the track. Always worth remembering to do this. Thanks for sharing.
👋 from Melbourne, Australia 🇦🇺. A man of many talents is Gaz. Even Fendy wanted in on the action. That Engine was disgusting. My Dad died 24 years ago, but he was an Engineer & a Motor Mechanic. My Dad had to retire early because of his health. But he started a business from home as a mechanic. He then was able to work when he was able. He also worked as a consultant for the police & for insurance companies, looking over cars etc after car accidents. I grew up around cars & engines. Us kids even helped him put the second story on our house. We were never put in any danger. But I was always more like my Dad. I'm a woman & I can change tyres, spark plugs & air filters. And check & fill all the different liquids that go in a car. I can't drive a manual car anymore, as I'm in a wheelchair & have to drive with hand controls.
How very odd I was literally looking at this product this morning and seeing weather or not it works on youtube😂 all American reviews so I'm glad you have decided to do it! 👍🏻
@@GrizzlyGazhiya gaz, I've got a toyota 3 lyrics turbo diesel reguis, great to drive , but its a import so have to wait for parts from toyota ,when I cannot get them from euro parts , just a message to let you know about euro parts they are very reasonable dont want to use the word cheap , may see you out and about as I camp about a bit in it , and live in lancashire, love to fendy and you and your family, take care it does look better your engine😊
Ive been a car guy all of my 60+ years and Ive never seen a bottle of crap actually clean the inside of an engine. I can tell you that I have seen an impressive transformation of a crap filled engine turned pretty clean by simply changing the oil VERY OFTEN and just drive the vehicle a lot. Long drives will heat up and soften the build up and the new oil filter captures what it can. I used cheap oil and cheap oil filters and simply changed the oil every couple weekends until you didnt see all the grime. In your case, you have gotten ahead of the game by cleaning the rocker cover and oil pan out. Look for an oil with DETERGENT and 10w-30 is fine. When the dipstick looks like the engine has clean oil in it after running a few miles, you are done. SeaFoam... I think it works best when you suck it into the intake via a vacuum port while the engine is running. She will want to kick and die so keep the engine running and suck in slowly about 1/3 of the can. Shut the engine off and let it sit for 15 minutes and then start it up and rev the engine until it stops smoking. And it WILL SMOKE! Then it will idle like a baby! Best of luck!
You'd be much better to use a flushing oil. Comma make one. Run your engine up to temp, drop the oil and fill it back up with nice clean flushing oil. Run it for the specified time and drop it out. You'll notice that it's darker and dirtier than the old oil. Flushing oil definitely removes a lot more crap from the engine than an oil additive. No matter how good it is. When you do your new oil and filter, add ZX1 to the oil. You'll be glad you did.
Great video. I swear by that stuff. Whenever I would buy a new used car, I would use this on the first three oil changes. This restored 2 Mercedes engines. For this car, I would have first added a quart of transmission fluid to remove the large bits. Changed the oil then run the flush.
I had an old Honda Prelude in the 90s that was given to me by an elderly family member the engine was sludged up even worst than your engine , it only has 40 something thousand miles, I used Wynns engine flush and drove around in it for a week I had nothing to lose after a week I drained it and that engine and sump looked brand new inside the valve gear looked spotless. Changed the rocker gasket and put new oil in it , changed the oil a month later and it was still cleanish. TBH with a dirt engine I dont think 20 minutes is long enough for that engine flush to do its best you need to drive the car around to get the stuff through all the passageways in the modern engine and allow it to cycle through different pressure cycles with fast and slow driving. I had the car for 8 years after that and it ran beautifully with regular oil changes of 3-4000 miles I think 6000 miles its to high. Even today I get my oil changed at 4000 miles and I always use Castrol because I trust it car is 4 years old now another Honda.
Nah definitely don't drive around with an engine flush. Not designed for that at all and will most likely cause damage. Then again if you've let your engine get that sludged up it would hardly matter I guess.
@@danieljessop7140 I drove the car for 8 years problem free after I desludged the engine and I never sludge it up the car was driven by an 80 year old Grandfather before me who was suffering from advanced senility and the car had been sitting before I got it for two years unused, this was 35 years ago, everyone an expert in these comments, I never asked for advise I was describing an experience over a third of a century ago.
Engine flush dilutes the oil and is not safe to drive. There are chemicals tha evaporate, so the longer you drive the more dirt may stay compared to draining the oil after 10 min
I thought I'd be bored watching a video about a car engine, but this was really interesting! I'm looking forward to seeing the sludge(less?) results in the next one. Good job Gaz! 😊
Hi Gaz, I loved watching this I spent alot of time with my step and learnt alot with motors. I didn't think it made alot of difference with the oil changes. Time will tell, with another go. Can't wait for xxx
The New Wonder Oil is Valvoline Restore and Protect. The Oil Geek did a review and apparently it works. No flush, just add the oil and drive. After a few oil changes the engine will be clean. I would change oil a bit early because some people have found the cleaning so good that the filter gets clogged. Good show Giz.
I use Lucas engine oil treatment to get rid of a leak and it worked it's a miracle. I had to put it in about three times every oil change to get it to go to work but it did it
Looks better mate after the flushes. Personally, I wouldn’t have bothered if it was running well. I’ve had all Japanese motors for a long time now mainly Suzuki and Subaru. Ridiculously reliable motors and they actually manufacture them to be badly maintained. The difference is that Euro manufacturers make engines that they expect you to maintain really well. I had an Impreza that I bought with 50k miles on it and repped in it doing on average 200 miles a day. Sold it with 194k on it. It had a couple of oil changes and a new filter every now and then when I could be bothered. I just topped it up with Castrol Edge every now and then. Bullet proof Japanese engines if you use a good quality oil.
Check your cooling system, coolant and thermostat while your at it and pay attetion to gauges aswell. Engines can sludge up due to overheating, this one might just be case of a missed oil change or two though
Honestly, as a woman…I wondered if this “would” be interesting? And it really “WAS” also kind of a learning experience! And that handsome face helps keeps me paying attention 😊 be blessed Gaz❣️🙏
I use a oil flush every 2nd oil change. Use a high detergent Diesel oil every 2nd oil change. Have done this for years (including on a 1187rwkw F6 Tornado ute), and never had any sludge issues, and in at least 2 2nd hand cars i have bought- cleaned up the sludge deposits with 5,000km oil & filter changes
This video is a good reminder to me as to why I have several different types of surgical forceps, including one that is a long reach variety, in my tool cart. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Another way is try say the engine needs 7 quarts of oil. 4 quarts of heavy oil. 2 quarts of diesel and 1 quart of transmission oil. Run it for about an hour but what the oil pressure gauge, then drain. That has helped.
I did this on my Range Rover with 90k miles, and it took 5 flushes in a row to get the oil coming out clean. I have a video of it I’ll post on my channel soon, but I used the same stuff you have here so if anyone is wondering, it’s going to take a bunch of these in a row to clean sludge like that. Some Russian guy did a video similar and he took like 8 flushes on his Lada
Brother, honestly you have chosen the very right product. Liqui Moly works great. However, the buildup on your engine is very strong. Just put fresh oil in it. Drive normally as you have flashed 2X time. The flushing detergents are still there. It will gradually breakdown those particles and in the next oil change, you will see a noticeable change.
It doesn't seem that it did a whole lot, but maybe that is a good thing. With all that varnish buildup, if it becomes loose all at once, it will not dissolve and it could clog the oil pan pickup tube. Ask me how I know it. Change the oil at half the intervals and you will see a noticeable difference in 15-20k km
Grizzly G, give Valvoline Restore and protect a try. I used it in 3 different Japanese vehicles from June 2024 and it has made a significant difference in cleaning up the engines. The difference was felt in the first 100 miles of driving and I 😁 changed out the filter after 500 miles. All 3 vehicles (2 Lexus, 1 Subaru) had increased power response, quieter idling and better mileage within the first month of use.
use Ezi Engine flash, it works well in Libya, the environment here is desert and we love Toyota cars, both new and old, and we found the above product to be very excellent, I advise you to try it, my regards 👍
I did the injector seals in my 1.9 pd tdi a couple of months ago, everything under the rocker cover was mint. Frequent oil changes that’s why 👍🏼 The engine in this video has been neglected. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of these cars about.
do an oil change, and substitute 1 quart of oil with a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Drive it 1000 miles or so. Pay particular attention to the oil pressure though. A real dirty engine might get the oil pump filter screen get clogged up when all the crud gets knocked loose. Do this for a couple oil changes. Drive a little longer with each progress. After the 3rd oil change, it should be cleaned up pretty well. The high detergent in the ATF works great to loosen those deposits. Probably a lot cheaper than the product used in this video.
Good job gaz, I think the liquid molly did clean it up a bit, that sludge stuff should hopefully will clean it up a bit more, but don't clean it up too much because you could get leaky seals. Oh by the way can I bring our car round to do the oil change the car lift is great 😂 enjoyed watching this and looking forward to the sludge remover nice to see what you get up to, but I do enjoy the camping too x
Grizzly. I spent a year looking for a rust free older van. Almost impossible in Michigan. And here is how I got duped. First off the van 1995, Ford 100% rust free everywhere clean clean clean. Was smitten. When it comes to checking the transmission fluid, he pulled the dipstick out for me showed me the end. Fluid was nice and red. Paid top dollar for the van. Got home drove fine. Looking at all over check the transmission again ! Wiped the end of the dipstick. And it was a little too red. After looking more he painted the end of the dipstick Red where the oil line was. 300 miles later was putting a new transmission in. Just thought I would share. I’ve never seen that before.
Liqui Moly stuff is all quality, imo. I've used a lot of their products and was very satisfied. With the engine flush you definitely need to drop the pan, after, and clean your pickup tube. I've used it preventatively and there was a lot of gunk on the pickup tube after. A friend used it to get his piston rings loose on a Honda HRV, worked well.
Some years ago I bought a 200,000km bmw 535i with the M30 engine . As it arrived the visible valve and cam train whilst not as bad as the Rav 4, were visibly bronze in colour with gum deposits. After about 3 years of an engine flush and oil change every 5,000 kms the view of the cams and valves was of that of a brand new car. All silver!
Need to get her proper hot before doing flushes. Go for quick drive and work her hard then add flush and let her idle. The extra build up on the valve train isn’t really an issue the clean oil will clear out the bearing surfaces. Just gotta remember these products are for maintenance use not a magic fix years of neglect cure. Keep up the great work Gaz 👍🏻
Another way to clean that engine would be drain the oil and fill the crank case all the way up to the oil cap fill with diesel, fuel, or kerosene, and all out to soak for several days. Drain it and then do a proper filter change and fresh oil. I would repeat the process about every 500 miles three or four times. Whoever owned that car did not believe in fresh oil.
In the States it's Valvoline restore and protect, the petrol compatible version has been in development for years, hopefully it's available in the UK or will be soon, great video and good luck
Amsoil is similar and works in my expereince, that we can get here albeit it a pretty stiff price and only small US gallons that are not enough to fill most engines so you have to buy 2 grrr.
A trick i learned from an old timer at my dealer is with every oil change put about 4 oz of ATF fluid in with your oil. ATF is just straight detergent. After about 10k miles and 2 oil changes my valve cover and valve trains had been cleaned of almost 300k miles worth of gunk. Its simple, effective and does zero damage whatsoever to the engine. I'd Highly recommend for those who aren't comfortable taking an engine apart to give it a try.
@@fallenplays5849 Please refrain from spreading misinformation. That’s modern oil chemistries working for you. ATF is NOT just straight detergent. Today’s motor oils have many times more detergent in them than ATF. The icing on the cake here is that detergents help keep sludge suspended in the oil. The scrubbing action comes from high quality base stocks in the oil. It would have actually been less work for you to not spread false information than to get on here and type out some old wives tale.
You want to use straight Kerosene in the crank case and keep flushing until it runs clear then I'd recommend using high mileage oil and a high mileage STP.
Ahh Twin cam . looks like she is running a good mixture ( carbon lumps /deposits ) Oil breather pipes maybe sludged up also Gaz . Maybe a new air filter would be a good shout , if its not already been done , she looks good underneath Gaz . 👍
Yeah 3s and 5s(successor) are known sludge mobiles. Youll wanna keep oil changes more frequent than normal for longevity, otherwsie their known to be very durable and relaible engines
I've done that n just carry a few oil filters with you. I added a half gallon of diesel fuel n let it ilde 10 min.then drained it for ever letting it stop dripping.then just keep changing the oil n filters
Your thought process with the thicker oil makes sense on the one hand, but on the other hand a thinner oil will get into the narrow parts of the engine better, and you have a higher flow rate with thinner oil basically picking up the sludge at a faster rate since the flow has a higher viscosity. So i would advise a thinner oil.
For new and up coming mechanics and fitters. ALWAYS lube the filter o-ring with CLEAN engine oil, and NOT with the old used engine oil. Reason being is that the old engine is contaminated with carbon deposits, and that makes it very difficult to remove the filters next time around.
Yes the cam lobes were clean after vs varnished before. That is what it will do, clean the parts that are under oil pressure or friction. Of course it doesn't instantly clean areas that are only splashed by oil and blow by. You can run ATF instead of motor oil or 50/50 oil and ATF for say 10'000km and that will be clean. Also don't waste a filter changing it before the flush, change it afterwards. Check the pcv valve and breather, if there wasn't a blockage causing that sludge to begin with, there would be by now. Don't be afraid to use a stiff brush and degreaser or petrol to clean up that whole valve train while you have the rocker cover off. Any carbon that goes down a gallery will stop at the filter and any that passes a valve will get blown out exhaust. I use a cheaper engine flush every third or fourth oil change, and only do filter at the time I do a flush. I change oil at 5000km though. I don't just idle it ten mins or twenty. I pour it in half hour before I get home and drive it for the half hour, just not driving hard. Aside from giving it enough time to work and with decent flow, the rings especially need to be under load to seal and let it work in the bores. We have restored lost compression like that. No it doesn't damage engine this way, mine has over 450'000km and still uses about 500ml between changes
Ive seen kerosene used mixed with the oil....engine IDLE only.. 50/50 Use thicker oil 15W40 or 20W50 .... For 30/45. Mins. Then drain and fill Again with oil kerosene again... Ive seen severely sludged junkyard engines cleaned by this message...piston rings and valves were gummed up and it free'd everything loose.. Just a thought to try. Diesel also works as a cleaner mixed with oil , i even seen Varsol used as a cleaner.
@@rodsvintagesxschannel.3095 I’ve heard even start it with only kerosene/diesel for 30 seconds then drain and do a 50/50 idle until it gets to temp leave it for 10 minutes then fill it with oil and drive it for a week and do a normal oil change
@@h0udinl id never got straight kerosene or diesel..its lubricity is insufficient...still need lubrication. I worked in a garage for several yrs under seasoned mechanics.. I was always told nothing cleaned dirty parts as gd as Varsol or Kerosene...used in part with oil. I also knew a gent whom tried WD40 mixed with SAE 30 oil to flush/clean junkyard engines to make " budget runners " and he was quite sucessful with it.
Well done, I like how you performed the test. I guess you aren't all satisfied with the result, I wouldn't be. Therefor, I think you should run the sludge remover aswell before puttning any expensive oil in or new gasket for the valvecover. Cheers from Sweden 👍
I was going to say you’ll need to drive it with the cleaner, in other words have it in there longer. Definitely like the gunk remover that you mention at the end 👍
A friend of mine had a really bad VW diesel, much worse than that one. We drained the oil sealed intake and exhaust and a few hoses, filled the whole engine with petrol all the way up and let it sit for two days. Drained, filled with cheap oil, ran it for a day, drained put good synth oil in it. Spotless, he still drives it today.
You want to change the oil filter again now Gaz. If any crap came off the internals of the engine they will be in there. That's a nice looking lift you have.
@@GrizzlyGaz - Instead of a 15w40 next time use a 5w30 API SN like Mannol or Champiol which is dirty cheap. They have more cleaning additives and this circulates better than a 15w40. Start the first flush with a 5w30 fill. Grtz and thanks from Belgium.
@@GrizzlyGaz They're right, you should use the right weight of oil, your thinking was wrong, oil already clings to all of the surfaces, this only makes it harder for the engine to pump the same volume of oil through the system.
@@juleesadventures7925 it's running sweet dude 👌 Changed the spark plugs, ignition leads and PCV valve. Now it's a lot more responsive and smoother idle. Gonna see if it's affected the fuel consumption in any way as before it was really thirsty
I have to say, I've gained a whole new appreciation of your skill level! Here I was thinking you were just another British tree hugging git and I come to find out that you have grease and oil in your blood! Way to go!
Try Amsoil engine oil , I've used it on engines that were beginning to burn some oil and it definitely freed up the piston rings and reduced oil consumption with the cams visibly cleaner after 1 normal oil change interval - but not engines that were as sludged as the one in the video. Might take maybe 3 oil change intervals with a tarry engine like that.
An alternative option is to drop a liter of oil out; refill with a liter of diesel and let it idle for a while... I wouldn't go for any spirited drives, as the oil with be significantly thinner... but idling/low RPM/load is usually fine. You may get a little bit of smoke from the exhaust temporarily, as oil will probably leak past some seals (due to the reduced viscosity). Then dump the oil and re-fill. Consider doing an earlier oil change as well the next time, just to remove any residual diesel.
I used to use flushing oil run the engine on low Rev's for a few hour's then drop it out then run it again with new flushing oil then once I was happy new engine oil and filters that engine was clean compared to some of the engines I use to do the flushing oil we used to use was a mixture of diesel fuel and a heavy motor oil mixed together always work great once you got the mix right.
You can see the difference, but the main difference is not going to be noticeable, which is in the lubrication ducts and in the hottest lubrication points where they will clean that sludge and the oil will be able to pass through and lubricate the sensitive parts. In addition, that sludge will be removed as the oil changes are carried out, as the manufacturer says, because the new oil has properties such as detergent properties that are mixed with the sludge and dragged along with each change.
For that Rav4, should have used 4 quarts diesel & 1 quart Dexron ATF....run it at 2000rpm for 1/2 hour. I prefer Valvoline or Havoline synthetic oil for long term use......the additives will clean that engine up with 3000-4000 mile oil changes....WIX filters too!!!
when they are that gunked up i use liquid moly engine flush with various bottle brushes to clean around the cams . you have to physically scrub that area ,but use soft brushes. it will come up clean but requires effort. one thing to avoid is the old school process of using degreasers or diesel or petrol mixed into the oil to do a quick clean as this will harden any rubber seals EG valve stem seals which ends up in them leaking and then resulting in the engine burning oil and blowing smoke.. The toyota engines are fairly bullet proof considering how long they last ,considering many car owners only do minimal or no maintenance. Always use a good synthetic oil and high quality oil filter. i personally do my own oil and filter changes every 3months or 5000kms on my vehicles . which ever comes first . i've had my toyotas do well over 500,000 kms . So for now that tooth brush will work a treat.
Gidday mate I can honestly say I'm in me early early 40s an this year was the first time I ever did a oil change on me old Nissan Venette , I'm shocking like that.. I'll just keep driving and driving 😂, Yours looks really good after the flushes and cleaning cause holy moly cotton candy it was thick looking aye. Hopefully the next stuff is even better.
You should try valvoline restore and protect after your flush and see if it continues the cleaning. But I'd recommend you monitor the oil pressure and replace the filter around 600 or 800 miles into the first oil change.
Some deposits are not avoidable, due to the fuel addtives in gasonline, especially the MMT. Oil flush is mostly used for free up oil rings if your engine burns lots of oil due to seized oil rings. If your eninge have no performance issue , or not losing too much oil, then just do oil change more often, will help this issue(with good oil for sure).
Drain the oil and fill it to the full mark on the dipstick with diesel, dont rev it but allow it to idle for about 20 mins. This used to work back in the 70s and 80s.
I saved a Mitsubishi Lancer engine that was 10 times worse. It was so bad you couldn't see the cams clearly. I dropped the oil pan, took out the oil pump pick-up tube, and took off the valve cover. I proceeded (with permission of the owner) to clean it with Diesel, industrial strength degreaser, a paint brush, a screw driver (to pick out the clumps), and power washed it with WATER from the top and bottom end. It came out impeccable. I then put new oil and a filter, ran it for 20 minutes, and changed the oil and filter again. Some of the other mechanics looked at me as if I was crazy, but it worked. Now, that client comes in for an oil change every 5k miles like clockwork and the car runs well.
The cam lobes look very clean now. Honestly, at that point I would just run it as is and not be too concerned with the remaining build up on the non-working surfaces. Get the rest of the car maintained and replace all fluids as needed. Do your oil changes as usual and enjoy the car. Time is your friend here, let the oil do the work. Regardless, it is good to have documentation like this video so you have a reference to go back to.
I wonder what would happen if you just filled the engine up with petrol all the way to the top of the valves and let it sit overnight. It sure cleaned up the valve cover pretty well. I did that to an old lawnmower and it worked great but not sure if a car would suffer some sort of damage from it.
I would have ran it for 20mins, then let the engine sit for a few hours so the detergents in the flush could dwell on parts…then run for another 20 mins before draining. As you mentioned it may benefit running on synthetic from now on, then change frequently.
Use 15w40 diesel engine oil and add 25ml Isopropyl alcohol every week, keep monitoring engine oil pressure & oil filter. Isopropyl alcohol vaporizes at high temperatures, just like break clean, so you can active all detergent in the oil, and diesel engine oil with a higher content of dispersants which is more suitable.
Visually I wouldn't expect much of a difference under the rocker cover since oil only gets lightly splashed around. I'm sure there is an improvement in oil passages and area where oil movement is more vigorous. I'd avoid flushes and just do short oil change intervals with a good synthetic oil.
Whenever i flush, i always alternate the revs quite a lot. Even had a drive not thrashing it, but you cant expect miracles. It needs a flushing oil or some atf works too
You should made a manual clean with a brush inside to remove or get the carbonized areas clean even the "enameled" areas. After flush, refill with oil and use the car for a month and so do the final oil change for a synthetic one.
One of the ways you could have cleaned both the valve cover, as well as the oil pan is to put them in your oven and run the oven through its cleaning cycle. It would turn all of that stuff into powder and would come out easily, but it might have smelled up the house a little bit.
My mom's '92 Camry was as bad or worse. What I did was first manually remove as much loose sludge and grit from the cylinder head with various tools like picks and plastic scrapers, then poured in some MMO and scrubbed with nylon brushes (you don't want metal ones in case the strands break off and wreak havoc on your engine), then sprayed with brake cleaner and scrubbed some more. Then I reinstalled the VC, added cheap engine flush, ran the car for 10-15 minutes, drained the oil, replaced the filter with a cheap one, removed the VC again, where things looked much better and cleaner, repeated the above process, reinstalled the VC, poured in some cheap conventional oil, and let my mom drive it for a few days. Then I poured in some more flush, this time the Liquid Moly, ran it 10-15 minutes, drained the oil, replaced the filter with an OEM one, opened up the VC again, and it was way cleaner than initially. Still some bronze discoloration, but no sludge, grit or any other nasty stuff. I also replaced the PCV valve, as a bad one can cause this. Ideally with this much gunk in there you're remove the cam shafts, but I didn't. Probably should have but it seemed like such a hassle and I was afraid that I'd mess it up or drop something into the engine. But now everything looks good and clean and while not quite new-looking it's effectively as good.
My Dad used to drain the oil, put 4 litres of Varsol into the engine. He’d let it idle for 5 minutes then drain it. Big black boogers of sludge would come out. Then he’d fill it with cheap oil and let it idle for 10 minutes then drain again. Change the filter and add new oil….the engine was way quieter and would idle smoother.
Here is part 2 where I use Liqui Moly oil sludge remover plus oven cleaner to clean the valve cover: th-cam.com/video/E7hCQqO3nxs/w-d-xo.html
@@GrizzlyGaz i love your videos and fendy is a proper dog stay safe and strong ❤️
🫡
A good source for JDM parts is Amayama Trading. I hope this helps.
What lift is that?
@@mandoky1647 not sure mate
'Old Skool' method was to disconnect the battery, fill the engine TO THE BRIM with diesel, and leave it soaking overnight. Drain completely, fresh oil, run for 30 minutes then fresh oil + filter...
Love the old school stuff
Did this with Castrol degreaser on a friend's old truck. Like 5 gallons. Left it full while he went out of town for a few days. Drained it when he got back home, put cheap oil in with a new filter, started it, let it run for a few minutes, check to make sure the oil wasn't completely getting destroyed by the degreaser, drove it around for about 10 minutes, drained the oil, put new cheap oil in with a quart of Rislone oil additive (basically 5W-30 oil with some really heavy detergents). Change the oil and filter again in 1000 me, came out totally black, and his oil pressure problems were gone, the valve train noise was gone, and under the valve covers was really surprisingly clean.
Obviously this is the kind of thing you would only do if the next step would be to rebuild the engine or junk the car.
@@mattcameron9349
My Dad taught me this 45 years ago
Thank you 🙏🏻 for the memories
Exactly!
@@mattcameron9349 de enig echte manier 👍
Driving a lot of short trip where the engine doesn't get the oil hot can also cause sludge to build up. Enjoying your videos
Correct. Gotta warm it up. Especially with modern engines and all the emissions garbage
@@floydjohnson2046 yeah I mention all this in part 2
@@samholdsworth420 modern engines warming up very fast because emissions garbage
This is how my 91 Volvo finally hardened up, during the pandemic.
My old man is a mechanic by trade too. He always takes the extra time to look at other things that may or may not cause problems down the track. Always worth remembering to do this. Thanks for sharing.
👋 from Melbourne, Australia 🇦🇺.
A man of many talents is Gaz.
Even Fendy wanted in on the action.
That Engine was disgusting. My Dad died 24 years ago, but he was an Engineer & a Motor Mechanic. My Dad had to retire early because of his health. But he started a business from home as a mechanic. He then was able to work when he was able. He also worked as a consultant for the police & for insurance companies, looking over cars etc after car accidents. I grew up around cars & engines. Us kids even helped him put the second story on our house. We were never put in any danger. But I was always more like my Dad. I'm a woman & I can change tyres, spark plugs & air filters. And check & fill all the different liquids that go in a car. I can't drive a manual car anymore, as I'm in a wheelchair & have to drive with hand controls.
How very odd I was literally looking at this product this morning and seeing weather or not it works on youtube😂 all American reviews so I'm glad you have decided to do it! 👍🏻
Hope this helps
@@GrizzlyGazhiya gaz, I've got a toyota 3 lyrics turbo diesel reguis, great to drive , but its a import so have to wait for parts from toyota ,when I cannot get them from euro parts , just a message to let you know about euro parts they are very reasonable dont want to use the word cheap , may see you out and about as I camp about a bit in it , and live in lancashire, love to fendy and you and your family, take care it does look better your engine😊
Very interesting. With the cost of vehicles these days being able to keep them running longer is a plus.
Ive been a car guy all of my 60+ years and Ive never seen a bottle of crap actually clean the inside of an engine. I can tell you that I have seen an impressive transformation of a crap filled engine turned pretty clean by simply changing the oil VERY OFTEN and just drive the vehicle a lot. Long drives will heat up and soften the build up and the new oil filter captures what it can. I used cheap oil and cheap oil filters and simply changed the oil every couple weekends until you didnt see all the grime. In your case, you have gotten ahead of the game by cleaning the rocker cover and oil pan out. Look for an oil with DETERGENT and 10w-30 is fine. When the dipstick looks like the engine has clean oil in it after running a few miles, you are done. SeaFoam... I think it works best when you suck it into the intake via a vacuum port while the engine is running. She will want to kick and die so keep the engine running and suck in slowly about 1/3 of the can. Shut the engine off and let it sit for 15 minutes and then start it up and rev the engine until it stops smoking. And it WILL SMOKE! Then it will idle like a baby! Best of luck!
You'd be much better to use a flushing oil. Comma make one.
Run your engine up to temp, drop the oil and fill it back up with nice clean flushing oil. Run it for the specified time and drop it out. You'll notice that it's darker and dirtier than the old oil.
Flushing oil definitely removes a lot more crap from the engine than an oil additive. No matter how good it is.
When you do your new oil and filter, add ZX1 to the oil. You'll be glad you did.
Great video. I swear by that stuff. Whenever I would buy a new used car, I would use this on the first three oil changes. This restored 2 Mercedes engines. For this car, I would have first added a quart of transmission fluid to remove the large bits. Changed the oil then run the flush.
I make sure my oil is changed every 6000 miles especially here in South Texas where we have mostly 100 plus days in the summer.
I'd go down to 5000 personally. Even when I have a hybrid that suggests 7500mi intervals
I'd highly suggest going under 5k even in that kinda heat. Heat kills engines and oil. Cold kills oil even quicker
@@aKjohn8798 I live in New York & i change my oil every year no matter how many miles i put on it
@@andreaphillian3947 1 year, 5k miles is ideal.
I had an old Honda Prelude in the 90s that was given to me by an elderly family member the engine was sludged up even worst than your engine , it only has 40 something thousand miles, I used Wynns engine flush and drove around in it for a week I had nothing to lose after a week I drained it and that engine and sump looked brand new inside the valve gear looked spotless. Changed the rocker gasket and put new oil in it , changed the oil a month later and it was still cleanish. TBH with a dirt engine I dont think 20 minutes is long enough for that engine flush to do its best you need to drive the car around to get the stuff through all the passageways in the modern engine and allow it to cycle through different pressure cycles with fast and slow driving. I had the car for 8 years after that and it ran beautifully with regular oil changes of 3-4000 miles I think 6000 miles its to high. Even today I get my oil changed at 4000 miles and I always use Castrol because I trust it car is 4 years old now another Honda.
@@Azureecosse You can use ATF oil if you want to drive for few hundred miles. It is safer than the engine flush.
Nah definitely don't drive around with an engine flush. Not designed for that at all and will most likely cause damage. Then again if you've let your engine get that sludged up it would hardly matter I guess.
@@danieljessop7140 I drove the car for 8 years problem free after I desludged the engine and I never sludge it up the car was driven by an 80 year old Grandfather before me who was suffering from advanced senility and the car had been sitting before I got it for two years unused, this was 35 years ago, everyone an expert in these comments, I never asked for advise I was describing an experience over a third of a century ago.
Engine flush dilutes the oil and is not safe to drive. There are chemicals tha evaporate, so the longer you drive the more dirt may stay compared to draining the oil after 10 min
I thought I'd be bored watching a video about a car engine, but this was really interesting! I'm looking forward to seeing the sludge(less?) results in the next one. Good job Gaz! 😊
Hi Gaz, I loved watching this I spent alot of time with my step and learnt alot with motors. I didn't think it made alot of difference with the oil changes. Time will tell, with another go. Can't wait for xxx
The New Wonder Oil is Valvoline Restore and Protect.
The Oil Geek did a review and apparently it works.
No flush, just add the oil and drive. After a few oil changes the engine will be clean.
I would change oil a bit early because some people have found the cleaning so good that the filter gets clogged.
Good show Giz.
Definitely good results. I'd probably change the filter every 1000 miles. Change the oil every 2000 miles. It really gets the gunk out.
I use Lucas engine oil treatment to get rid of a leak and it worked it's a miracle. I had to put it in about three times every oil change to get it to go to work but it did it
Looks better mate after the flushes. Personally, I wouldn’t have bothered if it was running well. I’ve had all Japanese motors for a long time now mainly Suzuki and Subaru. Ridiculously reliable motors and they actually manufacture them to be badly maintained. The difference is that Euro manufacturers make engines that they expect you to maintain really well. I had an Impreza that I bought with 50k miles on it and repped in it doing on average 200 miles a day. Sold it with 194k on it. It had a couple of oil changes and a new filter every now and then when I could be bothered. I just topped it up with Castrol Edge every now and then. Bullet proof Japanese engines if you use a good quality oil.
It was so clogged it was even taking oik
@@James-kl4dz Top up via the dipstick tube 😂😂
@@smokeandkippers Jesus that's the worst story I've heard
@@PPhase If you say so 🙄
@@PPhase I agree
Looooving this video! My camping car is a 2004 Subaru Forester. She's a wee ripper! I'm always keen to learn more about engine maintenance. Thankyou 🤩
Check your cooling system, coolant and thermostat while your at it and pay attetion to gauges aswell. Engines can sludge up due to overheating, this one might just be case of a missed oil change or two though
PCV valve failure
@@GrizzlyGazoh wow, forgot to mention but this is like the second most known problem on this engine series
Honestly, as a woman…I wondered if this “would” be interesting? And it really “WAS” also kind of a learning experience! And that handsome face helps keeps me paying attention 😊 be blessed Gaz❣️🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m a bloke and I love Gaz 😂
@@GrizzlyGaz Get a room 🤣😂🤣😂
It looked cleaner to me Gaz great job man
I use a oil flush every 2nd oil change.
Use a high detergent Diesel oil every 2nd oil change.
Have done this for years (including on a 1187rwkw F6 Tornado ute), and never had any sludge issues, and in at least 2 2nd hand cars i have bought- cleaned up the sludge deposits with 5,000km oil & filter changes
You sound like someone that will appreciate Valvoline Restore. And Valvoline Restore and Protect.
This video is a good reminder to me as to why I have several different types of surgical forceps, including one that is a long reach variety, in my tool cart. Thanks for the video.
3SFE- one of the best motors around.
Great video.
Another way is try say the engine needs 7 quarts of oil.
4 quarts of heavy oil. 2 quarts of diesel and 1 quart of transmission oil.
Run it for about an hour but what the oil pressure gauge, then drain.
That has helped.
I did this on my Range Rover with 90k miles, and it took 5 flushes in a row to get the oil coming out clean. I have a video of it I’ll post on my channel soon, but I used the same stuff you have here so if anyone is wondering, it’s going to take a bunch of these in a row to clean sludge like that. Some Russian guy did a video similar and he took like 8 flushes on his Lada
Brother, honestly you have chosen the very right product. Liqui Moly works great. However, the buildup on your engine is very strong. Just put fresh oil in it. Drive normally as you have flashed 2X time. The flushing detergents are still there. It will gradually breakdown those particles and in the next oil change, you will see a noticeable change.
Take it for a good run maybe 50 miles. If the oils black, change it again. You’ll win in the end. Good video. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The after looks way better then the before good job Gaz!!
It doesn't seem that it did a whole lot, but maybe that is a good thing. With all that varnish buildup, if it becomes loose all at once, it will not dissolve and it could clog the oil pan pickup tube. Ask me how I know it.
Change the oil at half the intervals and you will see a noticeable difference in 15-20k km
Grizzly G, give Valvoline Restore and protect a try. I used it in 3 different Japanese vehicles from June 2024 and it has made a significant difference in cleaning up the engines. The difference was felt in the first 100 miles of driving and I 😁 changed out the filter after 500 miles. All 3 vehicles (2 Lexus, 1 Subaru) had increased power response, quieter idling and better mileage within the first month of use.
Can't get it in the UK unfortunately
use Ezi Engine flash, it works well in Libya, the environment here is desert and we love Toyota cars, both new and old, and we found the above product to be very excellent, I advise you to try it, my regards 👍
Where do usually find this oil in libya?
@@vazione5410
Every where in libya ، specialy in tripoli . In Q20 libya stores
The product made in thiland , very effective .
I did the injector seals in my 1.9 pd tdi a couple of months ago, everything under the rocker cover was mint. Frequent oil changes that’s why 👍🏼
The engine in this video has been neglected.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of these cars about.
do an oil change, and substitute 1 quart of oil with a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Drive it 1000 miles or so. Pay particular attention to the oil pressure though. A real dirty engine might get the oil pump filter screen get clogged up when all the crud gets knocked loose. Do this for a couple oil changes. Drive a little longer with each progress. After the 3rd oil change, it should be cleaned up pretty well.
The high detergent in the ATF works great to loosen those deposits. Probably a lot cheaper than the product used in this video.
See part 2
Good job gaz, I think the liquid molly did clean it up a bit, that sludge stuff should hopefully will clean it up a bit more, but don't clean it up too much because you could get leaky seals. Oh by the way can I bring our car round to do the oil change the car lift is great 😂 enjoyed watching this and looking forward to the sludge remover nice to see what you get up to, but I do enjoy the camping too x
Great job mate🙌👏 I love hard work on motors, I could watch it all day!😂❤ from NZ🇳🇿
Got another vid coming with the 'sludge remover' 🫣
A man of many talents 😂 well done Gaz x
Grizzly. I spent a year looking for a rust free older van. Almost impossible in Michigan. And here is how I got duped. First off the van 1995, Ford 100% rust free everywhere clean clean clean. Was smitten. When it comes to checking the transmission fluid, he pulled the dipstick out for me showed me the end. Fluid was nice and red. Paid top dollar for the van. Got home drove fine. Looking at all over check the transmission again ! Wiped the end of the dipstick. And it was a little too red. After looking more he painted the end of the dipstick Red where the oil line was. 300 miles later was putting a new transmission in. Just thought I would share. I’ve never seen that before.
Wtf!!! There's some naughty people about
Liqui Moly stuff is all quality, imo. I've used a lot of their products and was very satisfied. With the engine flush you definitely need to drop the pan, after, and clean your pickup tube. I've used it preventatively and there was a lot of gunk on the pickup tube after. A friend used it to get his piston rings loose on a Honda HRV, worked well.
Some years ago I bought a 200,000km bmw 535i with the M30 engine . As it arrived the visible valve and cam train whilst not as bad as the Rav 4, were visibly bronze in colour with gum deposits. After about 3 years of an engine flush and oil change every 5,000 kms the view of the cams and valves was of that of a brand new car. All silver!
Nice!
Need to get her proper hot before doing flushes. Go for quick drive and work her hard then add flush and let her idle. The extra build up on the valve train isn’t really an issue the clean oil will clear out the bearing surfaces. Just gotta remember these products are for maintenance use not a magic fix years of neglect cure. Keep up the great work Gaz 👍🏻
Another way to clean that engine would be drain the oil and fill the crank case all the way up to the oil cap fill with diesel, fuel, or kerosene, and all out to soak for several days. Drain it and then do a proper filter change and fresh oil. I would repeat the process about every 500 miles three or four times. Whoever owned that car did not believe in fresh oil.
Best engine flush gaz is a pint of diesel in the oil cap run it for thirty minutes 😊
I always did this mate and it's cheep cheep I used to work on cars from a young age so I does work save a few mate hope it helps
Run it round the block drive it a bit harder to get the pressure up to the rockers to clean
Loved this video Gaz, your a man of many talents. Can’t wait for the next one. Your engine looked a bit cleaner ❤
In the States it's Valvoline restore and protect, the petrol compatible version has been in development for years, hopefully it's available in the UK or will be soon, great video and good luck
Amsoil is similar and works in my expereince, that we can get here albeit it a pretty stiff price and only small US gallons that are not enough to fill most engines so you have to buy 2 grrr.
A trick i learned from an old timer at my dealer is with every oil change put about 4 oz of ATF fluid in with your oil. ATF is just straight detergent. After about 10k miles and 2 oil changes my valve cover and valve trains had been cleaned of almost 300k miles worth of gunk. Its simple, effective and does zero damage whatsoever to the engine. I'd Highly recommend for those who aren't comfortable taking an engine apart to give it a try.
@@fallenplays5849 Please refrain from spreading misinformation. That’s modern oil chemistries working for you. ATF is NOT just straight detergent. Today’s motor oils have many times more detergent in them than ATF. The icing on the cake here is that detergents help keep sludge suspended in the oil. The scrubbing action comes from high quality base stocks in the oil. It would have actually been less work for you to not spread false information than to get on here and type out some old wives tale.
You want to use straight Kerosene in the crank case and keep flushing until it runs clear then I'd recommend using high mileage oil and a high mileage STP.
Ahh Twin cam . looks like she is running a good mixture ( carbon lumps /deposits ) Oil breather pipes maybe sludged up also Gaz . Maybe a new air filter would be a good shout , if its not already been done , she looks good underneath Gaz . 👍
Yeah I've cleaned it all up in the 'sludge remover' video
Yeah 3s and 5s(successor) are known sludge mobiles. Youll wanna keep oil changes more frequent than normal for longevity, otherwsie their known to be very durable and relaible engines
I've done that n just carry a few oil filters with you. I added a half gallon of diesel fuel n let it ilde 10 min.then drained it for ever letting it stop dripping.then just keep changing the oil n filters
Your thought process with the thicker oil makes sense on the one hand, but on the other hand a thinner oil will get into the narrow parts of the engine better, and you have a higher flow rate with thinner oil basically picking up the sludge at a faster rate since the flow has a higher viscosity. So i would advise a thinner oil.
I've just had to get rid of one, that was a two flusher 😮👍😎
1/2 quart on trans fluid in with the next three oil changes will clean it up nicely.
Hi Gaz, I gave my 2008 CRV an engine flush after the VVT was playing up, two years ago, it’s been awesome ever since 👍
Hi Gaz you did a great job on your motor it was very interesting to watch your a man of Many skills 😊
For new and up coming mechanics and fitters. ALWAYS lube the filter o-ring with CLEAN engine oil, and NOT with the old used engine oil. Reason being is that the old engine is contaminated with carbon deposits, and that makes it very difficult to remove the filters next time around.
Yes the cam lobes were clean after vs varnished before. That is what it will do, clean the parts that are under oil pressure or friction.
Of course it doesn't instantly clean areas that are only splashed by oil and blow by.
You can run ATF instead of motor oil or 50/50 oil and ATF for say 10'000km and that will be clean.
Also don't waste a filter changing it before the flush, change it afterwards.
Check the pcv valve and breather, if there wasn't a blockage causing that sludge to begin with, there would be by now.
Don't be afraid to use a stiff brush and degreaser or petrol to clean up that whole valve train while you have the rocker cover off. Any carbon that goes down a gallery will stop at the filter and any that passes a valve will get blown out exhaust.
I use a cheaper engine flush every third or fourth oil change, and only do filter at the time I do a flush. I change oil at 5000km though. I don't just idle it ten mins or twenty. I pour it in half hour before I get home and drive it for the half hour, just not driving hard. Aside from giving it enough time to work and with decent flow, the rings especially need to be under load to seal and let it work in the bores. We have restored lost compression like that.
No it doesn't damage engine this way, mine has over 450'000km and still uses about 500ml between changes
Check out part 2 👍
Ive seen kerosene used mixed with the oil....engine IDLE only.. 50/50
Use thicker oil 15W40 or 20W50 .... For 30/45. Mins. Then drain and fill
Again with oil kerosene again... Ive seen severely sludged junkyard engines cleaned by this message...piston rings and valves were gummed up and it free'd everything loose.. Just a thought to try. Diesel also works as a cleaner mixed with oil , i even seen Varsol used as a cleaner.
@@rodsvintagesxschannel.3095 I’ve heard even start it with only kerosene/diesel for 30 seconds then drain and do a 50/50 idle until it gets to temp leave it for 10 minutes then fill it with oil and drive it for a week and do a normal oil change
@@h0udinl id never got straight kerosene or diesel..its lubricity is insufficient...still need lubrication.
I worked in a garage for several yrs under seasoned mechanics.. I was always told nothing cleaned dirty parts as gd as Varsol or Kerosene...used in part with oil. I also knew a gent whom tried WD40 mixed with SAE 30 oil to flush/clean junkyard engines to make
" budget runners " and he was quite sucessful with it.
Well done, I like how you performed the test. I guess you aren't all satisfied with the result, I wouldn't be. Therefor, I think you should run the sludge remover aswell before puttning any expensive oil in or new gasket for the valvecover.
Cheers from Sweden 👍
See my other video 😉
I was going to say you’ll need to drive it with the cleaner, in other words have it in there longer. Definitely like the gunk remover that you mention at the end 👍
A friend of mine had a really bad VW diesel, much worse than that one. We drained the oil sealed intake and exhaust and a few hoses, filled the whole engine with petrol all the way up and let it sit for two days. Drained, filled with cheap oil, ran it for a day, drained put good synth oil in it. Spotless, he still drives it today.
Nice!
You want to change the oil filter again now Gaz. If any crap came off the internals of the engine they will be in there. That's a nice looking lift you have.
I changed it with each oil change 👍
@@GrizzlyGaz - Instead of a 15w40 next time use a 5w30 API SN like Mannol or Champiol which is dirty cheap.
They have more cleaning additives and this circulates better than a 15w40.
Start the first flush with a 5w30 fill.
Grtz and thanks from Belgium.
@@laurapalmerTDGE did you watch the video? 🤣
@@laurapalmerTDGEa much better recommendation. Would be Valvoline Restore and Valvoline Restore and Protect
@@GrizzlyGaz They're right, you should use the right weight of oil, your thinking was wrong, oil already clings to all of the surfaces, this only makes it harder for the engine to pump the same volume of oil through the system.
One off the best videos you’ve made Gaz👍
Hey!!! You enjoyed one! 🫣🤣
I'm just editing part 2 to this vid now with me being rained off 🤪
@@GrizzlyGaz Yep I enjoyed that one no bull shit just you doing man stuff and I hope the engine runs perfect for you 👍
Gaz how is the van running now
@@juleesadventures7925 it's running sweet dude 👌
Changed the spark plugs, ignition leads and PCV valve. Now it's a lot more responsive and smoother idle. Gonna see if it's affected the fuel consumption in any way as before it was really thirsty
i always clean with straight up diesel, works like a charm
I have to say, I've gained a whole new appreciation of your skill level! Here I was thinking you were just another British tree hugging git and I come to find out that you have grease and oil in your blood! Way to go!
😎
Try Amsoil engine oil , I've used it on engines that were beginning to burn some oil and it definitely freed up the piston rings and reduced oil consumption with the cams visibly cleaner after 1 normal oil change interval - but not engines that were as sludged as the one in the video. Might take maybe 3 oil change intervals with a tarry engine like that.
An alternative option is to drop a liter of oil out; refill with a liter of diesel and let it idle for a while... I wouldn't go for any spirited drives, as the oil with be significantly thinner... but idling/low RPM/load is usually fine. You may get a little bit of smoke from the exhaust temporarily, as oil will probably leak past some seals (due to the reduced viscosity). Then dump the oil and re-fill. Consider doing an earlier oil change as well the next time, just to remove any residual diesel.
I absolutely love your videos. You make me laugh, love fendi too. Good job on that car. Looking forward to next video. Take care hun.
I used to use flushing oil run the engine on low Rev's for a few hour's then drop it out then run it again with new flushing oil then once I was happy new engine oil and filters that engine was clean compared to some of the engines I use to do the flushing oil we used to use was a mixture of diesel fuel and a heavy motor oil mixed together always work great once you got the mix right.
You can see the difference, but the main difference is not going to be noticeable, which is in the lubrication ducts and in the hottest lubrication points where they will clean that sludge and the oil will be able to pass through and lubricate the sensitive parts.
In addition, that sludge will be removed as the oil changes are carried out, as the manufacturer says, because the new oil has properties such as detergent properties that are mixed with the sludge and dragged along with each change.
For that Rav4, should have used 4 quarts diesel & 1 quart Dexron ATF....run it at 2000rpm for 1/2 hour. I prefer Valvoline or Havoline synthetic oil for long term use......the additives will clean that engine up with 3000-4000 mile oil changes....WIX filters too!!!
when they are that gunked up i use liquid moly engine flush with various bottle brushes to clean around the cams . you have to physically scrub that area ,but use soft brushes. it will come up clean but requires effort.
one thing to avoid is the old school process of using degreasers or diesel or petrol mixed into the oil to do a quick clean as this will harden any rubber seals EG valve stem seals which ends up in them leaking and then resulting in the engine burning oil and blowing smoke.. The toyota engines are fairly bullet proof considering how long they last ,considering many car owners only do minimal or no maintenance.
Always use a good synthetic oil and high quality oil filter. i personally do my own oil and filter changes every 3months or 5000kms on my vehicles . which ever comes first . i've had my toyotas do well over 500,000 kms .
So for now that tooth brush will work a treat.
I just wanted to see if the moly alone would clean it
Gidday mate I can honestly say I'm in me early early 40s an this year was the first time I ever did a oil change on me old Nissan Venette , I'm shocking like that..
I'll just keep driving and driving 😂,
Yours looks really good after the flushes and cleaning cause holy moly cotton candy it was thick looking aye.
Hopefully the next stuff is even better.
You should try valvoline restore and protect after your flush and see if it continues the cleaning. But I'd recommend you monitor the oil pressure and replace the filter around 600 or 800 miles into the first oil change.
Can't get it in the UK
Some deposits are not avoidable, due to the fuel addtives in gasonline, especially the MMT. Oil flush is mostly used for free up oil rings if your engine burns lots of oil due to seized oil rings. If your eninge have no performance issue , or not losing too much oil, then just do oil change more often, will help this issue(with good oil for sure).
I’ve always driven cheap beaters.
Useing detergent oil.
I changed the oil at 2000 miles 4 changes.
Clean….
I have had really good experiences with mixing 50/50 oil and diesel and running the engine at little higer rpm and flushing the engine out with that.
Valvoline restore and protect worked wonders for my 2.0 duratec in my 2006 ford focus zx3
Drain the oil and fill it to the full mark on the dipstick with diesel, dont rev it but allow it to idle for about 20 mins. This used to work back in the 70s and 80s.
I saved a Mitsubishi Lancer engine that was 10 times worse. It was so bad you couldn't see the cams clearly. I dropped the oil pan, took out the oil pump pick-up tube, and took off the valve cover. I proceeded (with permission of the owner) to clean it with Diesel, industrial strength degreaser, a paint brush, a screw driver (to pick out the clumps), and power washed it with WATER from the top and bottom end. It came out impeccable. I then put new oil and a filter, ran it for 20 minutes, and changed the oil and filter again. Some of the other mechanics looked at me as if I was crazy, but it worked. Now, that client comes in for an oil change every 5k miles like clockwork and the car runs well.
The cam lobes look very clean now. Honestly, at that point I would just run it as is and not be too concerned with the remaining build up on the non-working surfaces.
Get the rest of the car maintained and replace all fluids as needed. Do your oil changes as usual and enjoy the car. Time is your friend here, let the oil do the work.
Regardless, it is good to have documentation like this video so you have a reference to go back to.
Mineral oi; is the reason for all this build up inside. Toyota recomends syntetic oil for this engine.
I wonder what would happen if you just filled the engine up with petrol all the way to the top of the valves and let it sit overnight. It sure cleaned up the valve cover pretty well. I did that to an old lawnmower and it worked great but not sure if a car would suffer some sort of damage from it.
Amsoil Engine Flush is a bit stronger than liquid Moly. Then follow it up with some Amsoil Signature series and it will be really clean.
I would have ran it for 20mins, then let the engine sit for a few hours so the detergents in the flush could dwell on parts…then run for another 20 mins before draining.
As you mentioned it may benefit running on synthetic from now on, then change frequently.
Good work gaz looks like it needs swamp remover
Seafoam won't do much, but BG products definitely work!
Use 15w40 diesel engine oil and add 25ml Isopropyl alcohol every week, keep monitoring engine oil pressure & oil filter. Isopropyl alcohol vaporizes at high temperatures, just like break clean, so you can active all detergent in the oil, and diesel engine oil with a higher content of dispersants which is more suitable.
This works well BG EPR - Engine Performance Restoration 👍
Visually I wouldn't expect much of a difference under the rocker cover since oil only gets lightly splashed around. I'm sure there is an improvement in oil passages and area where oil movement is more vigorous. I'd avoid flushes and just do short oil change intervals with a good synthetic oil.
Tip of the hat to Toyota though. That engine is still running great with all of that sludge built up.
Whenever i flush, i always alternate the revs quite a lot. Even had a drive not thrashing it, but you cant expect miracles. It needs a flushing oil or some atf works too
Great little video I’ve always used the seafoam. I don’t even know if that would touch it.
You should made a manual clean with a brush inside to remove or get the carbonized areas clean even the "enameled" areas. After flush, refill with oil and use the car for a month and so do the final oil change for a synthetic one.
"Look at the state of it!!!", breaks me to bits every time I hear it.
One of the ways you could have cleaned both the valve cover, as well as the oil pan is to put them in your oven and run the oven through its cleaning cycle. It would turn all of that stuff into powder and would come out easily, but it might have smelled up the house a little bit.
I ain't that posh mate 🤣
My mom's '92 Camry was as bad or worse. What I did was first manually remove as much loose sludge and grit from the cylinder head with various tools like picks and plastic scrapers, then poured in some MMO and scrubbed with nylon brushes (you don't want metal ones in case the strands break off and wreak havoc on your engine), then sprayed with brake cleaner and scrubbed some more.
Then I reinstalled the VC, added cheap engine flush, ran the car for 10-15 minutes, drained the oil, replaced the filter with a cheap one, removed the VC again, where things looked much better and cleaner, repeated the above process, reinstalled the VC, poured in some cheap conventional oil, and let my mom drive it for a few days.
Then I poured in some more flush, this time the Liquid Moly, ran it 10-15 minutes, drained the oil, replaced the filter with an OEM one, opened up the VC again, and it was way cleaner than initially. Still some bronze discoloration, but no sludge, grit or any other nasty stuff. I also replaced the PCV valve, as a bad one can cause this.
Ideally with this much gunk in there you're remove the cam shafts, but I didn't. Probably should have but it seemed like such a hassle and I was afraid that I'd mess it up or drop something into the engine. But now everything looks good and clean and while not quite new-looking it's effectively as good.
自分でメンテナンスができるのは凄いですね！
日本車をご愛顧頂き、本当にありがとうございます 😊
My Dad used to drain the oil, put 4 litres of Varsol into the engine. He’d let it idle for 5 minutes then drain it. Big black boogers of sludge would come out. Then he’d fill it with cheap oil and let it idle for 10 minutes then drain again. Change the filter and add new oil….the engine was way quieter and would idle smoother.
BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service does a great job of cleaning an engine.