little bit of physics, the glass didn't get foggy because it got hot inside, the increased pressure rises the boiling point of water or when it evaporates. You putting pressure in the system regardless of the generated heat forces humidity in the air to fall out and build droplets, once the pressure drops the water can evaporate again and be picked up by the air.
On a related point: having some squishy air in the top of the reservoir helps absorb the small increases in water volume from heating without the static pressure of the system shooting up.
According to Alphacool's description on their site those inserts are for the inlets. If you don't fill the res all the way those holes would act as jets shooting the water against the wall for a fountain effect. That's why the bottom tube was longer than the top. You only would use one of them depending on where your loop return was connected.
Yep...I have been using Alphacool reservoirs for a long time...I actually kind of like the fountian effect...I had one of those helix reservoirs a while back also
Besides the fountain effect, it helps with keeping air (micro) bubbles further away from the pump feed/outlet in the bottom, helping with loop de-aeration. Bottom inlet: use tall insert, bubbles are shot closer to the top, laterally. Top inlet: use the shorter inserts, same logic, bubbles are shot laterally, close to the top, and they go up, away from the pump. Especially for top inlet designs, if you have a high flow loop and shoot the stream directly down, there are higher chances that bubbles will get down back into the pump and get recirculated. If the stream shoots laterally, chances the bubbles go up and not get caught back into the pump suction stream increase significantly. But in the end, the benefit is only marginal, it speeds up the bubble clearing from ~a week to maybe a few days. And then it does not matter.
That’s absolutely an ADHD moment when you open the case to do one thing but end up taking all of it apart, something you said you’re absolutely not doing
Yea shit is so annoying iv never took any medicine for it but it is slowly ruining my life nj and everyone thinks I just don't care or do it on purpose I'm 31 and about as far in life as an 18 year old that just moved out 😅
Actually, ADHD would have made him open the case, start taking it apart, then start doing something else, then 3 other things. If anything this demonstrates OCD. Or maybe it's just totally normal behavior when you're dedicated to making something as nice as it can be. Not all behavior is symptomatic of an underlying condition.
@iamaduckquack yea that's my problem I got anywhere it'll take me hours when it's a thirty min trip it's stressful then you realize it get mad try to focus and do it again ten minutes later can't do anything on time bills, appointments, life in general fml
That bottom one isn't a pickup for the pump. It's an alternate inlet if your return is at the bottom instead of coming down from the top. I have one of these Alphacool reservoirs. I just took it out. I also modified the short pipe so the holes are angled so the res swirls. That way it doesn't _churn_ air into the water enough to get down to the inlet and instead spins it out.
Neat! Do the jets (un- and modified) make any additional noise? My inlet tube is completely submerged and makes no sound obviously and at idle my PC is quieter than a completely silent room.
@@LEXXIUS Not in mine, now. Mine are submerged ~5mm, so with the pump at full speed it will make some vorticies around the edges, but no, no noise that I can hear. At that point the fans have ramped up as well, and even though I try to get the quietist I can, they are still louder than any noise from the res/pump even catching a bit of air. At the same level the OEM configuration caught a lot of air & was audible. I ended up cutting the end off, including the OEM 'holes' and used the Dremel to cut the slots back in at the angle & size I wanted them, then glued the endplate back on. Flow is good & temps well under control.
The care in taking things apart, fixing issues and reassembling is very satisfying and a joy to watch! Looking forward to seeing Skunkworks in its final new form once again.
Just a quick heads up no o rings should be put in dry, silicon lubricant sprayed onto a microfibre towel & wiped on the o ring makes shore that no tears/slits are formed on the o ring during assembly. Great to see the build progressing.
Damn, now I'm super nervous to take apart my wife's system as she's been running it for a while now and I haven't been able to take it apart can really clean it for a year now.
@@joshua41175 Just an FYI they recommend you fluid swap Mystic Fog every 6 months. The particles can easily fall out of the solution. It's even worse with truly opaque fluids.
It is an opaque coolant simply with a lower density of nanoparticles. In some ways, this makes it more susceptible to clogging than a fully opaque coolant. Opaque coolants require very specific steps and even loop design to minimize fallout and they need to be in motion. Opaque coolants should almost never be allowed to sit. The first thing to do is to design a loop with limited dead water zones. Use the top inlet of your reservoir as using the bottom makes the reservoir a dead water zone. Avoid extreme bends, filters, flow meters, or anything that creates unnecessary restriction. if you follow the mix guidelines, fully and completely clean and prep the loop, then do a coolant swap after about a week to a clean batch of mystic fog or whatever opaque coolant you used for the initial fill, you will be fine barring some weird material reaction which, while rare, technically can happen. Better yet, transparent colored or clear coolants with clear, frosted, opaque, matte, or satin tube will always be way easier to work with.
All my mystic fog coolant went completely clear after about a month, which kinda sucks. But my temps didn't seem to rise any, so my guess is all the crud is stuck in bottom radiator, rather than the fins of the CPU and GPU blocks. Just gonna roll with it until it's time to do a coolant swap, and then I'll go with clear, and maybe switch to frosted tubing.
I just built my a new pc 14900KS 4080 super. My last pc build was 7 years ago. I haven't stayed informed in pc parts/builds at all. HOLY shit thing have changed. I used your channel a lot to find answers to all my questions. Just wanted to say thank you because I had so many problems from the start.
Temp to high- All volt defult BIOS setting for the 14900ks incorrect. I manual input intels limits L 125, S 253, CL 307 I undervolt CPU 0.085 Fix allmost all the heat problems. How to make proper fan curve for all fans. 3 cores for some reason 15° hotter then the rest. Added new CPU Contact Frame. Added 3 more fans facing GPU. CPU runs at 50° gaming now. GPU runs at 53° gaming now. At 4k. No more odd 3 cores heat problem. Cinebench max temp now max 78° 40732score. AIO- Died , Fault with middle fan after one week. Replaced DDR5 doesn't play nice with 4 sticks. XMP Failed. Added RGB under the case. RBG is simply if you purchase the correct items. DONT get usb rgb motherboard can't control it. Added all white cable extensions. Don't plug directly into PSU.
I literally did the same a year and half ago! 13900k and 4080 FE. Though 10 year gap lol. Went through EXACTLY the same stuff as you! The only thing I haven't done yet is fan curves. What case did you go for? I was running on the cardboard box and then snapped up the nzxt h6 flow when it was released.
The pump will not work correctly, because the filter in the inlay has to be positioned on the top left. At 14:27 you will see it is the opposite position. The riser tube in the bottom is used for the return flow, if you use the lower port for return
As a heavy equipment mechanic it pained me to watch you put those pumps together with nothing lubing the o-rings/seals. There is a fantastic product out there called Sil-Glyde lubricating compound. I've used it for assembling hydraulic cylinders, engine cylinder liners, radiator hose, etc. Might be worth checking out. A little goes a long way.
Definitely prefer the glass reservoirs. For a number of reasons. The one in my old rig ran for 7 years with kool-aid red fluid in it the whole time. Zero staining. Can be used in some other project with a different color later. Pretty positive acrylic would be permanently red/pink by now. Add to that glass just looks better and doesn't scratch? Winner every time.
The reason for the longer pickup tube is probably to encourage sediment to be captured into the reservoir. Rather than be re-circulated through your loop potentially glogging cooling channels.
For really high end cooling. Go straight water. A drop of dawn dish soap. Change water every few weeks~ Anything in water displaces water and water is the best for heat capacity.
If you still want it to be more diffuse, you could take some sort of vellum paper or maybe some poly paper and wrap it around the reservoir. Then the paper would distribute the light from the inside more evenly
Your explanation at the end for why you enjoy doing this was perfect Jay. I always loved working on the cars and planes I got to play with, even if I didn't get in the seat. I just did it like I could have been the driver/pilot and would be confident that, in the end, everything is done right.
A few bubbles would be beneficial as it would quieten down the flow if you have air in a vertical radiator. It would also reduce surface tension to ensure a better contact of water to steel / copper / plastic. It might not make a measurable difference, but it won't hurt.
Just a little trick with the O-rings, you can use petroleum jelly (vaseline) on them to help with a good seal and the longevity of the O-ring so it doesn’t dry out. Just a tip. Thanks for the video
I built my loop last August and it’s still looking clean. Just use clear coolant like Koolance 702 clear. I used edpm rubber tubing as well. If you use clear coolant you can change the led colors at any time and the coolant will match it
I'm happy you opened the pump to clean it, we decided to go for Alphacool and Aqua Computer, instead EK... I asked at some time about the AC "D5" pumps. But now I noticed how those pumps are build, thank you very much. It's odd the led string got stuck. But we use chroma argb controllers, so we have to look out for those kinds of problems. Thanks again.
I just wanted to mention that alphacool has a great support. Some years ago I dropped an Icebear AIO and dented the copper baseplate. Alphacool sent me a replacement, free of charge. Even it was my mistake and not their fault. Recently they replaced a Core 200 pump/reservoir, free of charge. I had it lying around for 8 months and put it only then in my pc for the first time. The pump made strange noises. Alphacool wanted the faulty pump back and sent me a new pump and reservoir. Nice guys.
I relate so much to the preference to building and assembling to using. I am right around your age and find myself tinkering with my computer/car/models than actually using them. There is something so satisfying about seeing something you've put work into come to life.
I absolutely love the Alphacool pumps. I bought one when they first came out like 10 years ago and it served me great until a year or 2 ago. They had terrible reviews and a high failure rate, but mine was excellent. I am now using a real D5 and it is much louder and constantly bubbles and groans randomly. If Alphacool could get the failure rate down they could kill the D5. This reminds me that I need to buy another one to replace the D5 next time I drain my loop.
You might have air trapped in your loop, either from the reservoir being too low on water in general, or due to the way your lines are positioned. Especially possible if you're using soft tubing and the loop has been in place for a long time. Air getting pushed through the pump will cause a lot of noise, an it's about the only thing that will cause bubbling.
Thanks for continuing to put out quality content. Seem like yesterday I was watching you make videos from a room in your house. I don't have the money to invest in high quality components and water-cooling, so I live vicariously through you.
I did learn something by all this, that I can be happy with my water tight prefab corsair H100i instead of all that extra cleaning. Oh man I thought I was complaining about having to take off the radiator fans to clean "hard to get" fuzz in between the fans and radiator then I realize I got it easy after seeing this
My experience on my first time watercooling with hard tubing was to find unexpected snags and having to figure them out, like the thick 60mm push-pull rad was way too massive in the front (Thermaltake Core P5), so I had to find a way to put the 4 fans on the inside and how to make a seal for the airflow as the case had metal bent inwards for rigidity. Another one was to find the right length spacers and washers to make my pump and reservoir stand out more and not be hidden behind the radiator (EKWB pump mount and reservoir clamps have different mounting distances...), and another one was my Seasonic PSU fan was making a ticking bearing noise (normal for some bearings) and had no RGB (the whole corner of the build was just dark), so I carefully removed the warranty sticker and replaced the 135 mm fan with a 140mm Corsair fan. I had to adjust the screw holes with a dremel and made them a bit too loose but it holds. I also wrapped the whole case and parts in an automotive film wrap with a hexagonal pattern which made the case look a 1000 times better than the rough matte finish with a bunch of holes it was before.
I totally get you with the preference for building as a hobby vs. ... doing stuff with the thing you built. I just built the second PC I've ever made for myself and the process of learning about all the parts, deciding what I wanted, putting the thing together, testing it, was WAY more fun and satisfying than the actual gaming I've done on it since. And I love the games! But little tops that feeling of creation, and even the mini-creation involved in maintaining/upgrading/improving something, to me. Wish I could afford to keep building but I won't be able to afford that for a while. For now I'll have to content myself with playing the games... I GUESS. On second thought, I could always get back into Skyrim. And by Skyrim, I mean modding Skyrim, which is kind of an act of creation as you build the shaky Jenga tower of mods, all to use them for the like 30 minutes of actually playing Skyrim I'll probably end up doing.
I love the water cooling videos. I decided to water cool my PC because of you. I like the way the hardline tubing looks. Geez, it was back when you just upgraded to the GTX 780s.
They have them long because you can have return and outlet on the same side. The return should then have long pipe so it leads the bubbles away from the outlet
Thanks for this one guys. I like getting to see the teardown of individual parts. Most of the time we just see whole pieces installed. Like I know what a pump / res does, but I also want to see how it does what it does.
You know those old bubble light towers? Always wanted to make one into a water cooler reservoir. One of those full size 4ftX.5ft ones with the little plastic fish. Not the new desk sized ones. Yeah, the algae growth would be insane, but the air bubbling through it would add a (small) bit of cooling.
Try just making your own mystic fog like coolant. I've had good success with it. For instance, use Mayhems Clear concentrate or XSPC clear as a base, then add in just a little bit of opaque white while matching the mix ratio of each to what is recommended. Then you can add in whatever dye you want if you want it colored. You can vary the opacity with this method as well. Another good option is to dilute a particle free opaque coolant(these only exist with ethelene glycol so don't use PETG tubing with them) by about 30% with the same coolant in clear. This will give you a coolant that is still opaque when unlit, but will be somewhat transparent when lit. So far, with over a year in use for a couple of them, I haven't had a single issue, such as color shift, fallout, or clogging, with coolant colors produced using these methods.
I like the mod, just 1 thing: The bottom tube isn't a pickup. It's the bottom return, you you choose too use it. I know because I have 2 of the same reservoirs, and I'm using the bottom return on mine, not the top.
Also, make sure to keep your o-rings covered/contained when not in placement. Dust, etc, could literally ruin the function. Make sure it’s clean before reinstalling 🤗
Around 11:00, Porcelain VS Glass. I've had similar issues; I now just put down a towel if I have to clean glass in a porcelain sink. It's messy, sure, but better than breaking it :)
Jay, I want to compliment you. Of all the enthusiast computer channels, yours has always been the best. Even though I loathe commercials since I have TH-cam Premium to avoid them, your use of them (other than WOW) are the best integrated in the world of youtube. Your persona on your channel is fun without being childish (points to Linus Tech Commercials). You explain well and you bring humanity and character to your channel. You shared in the past about some health issues and I pray you are doing better and that is being treated. You are an asset to the computer tech world and never change. You are a great soul. And not many youtubers can even hold that award even if they have youtube awards on their wall.
im the same, i enjoy rebuilding/cleaning my pc and just pcs in general alot more than using them and the software side, people called me weird because of it. same with cars too, rather fix them or change parts than actualy drive them, just somthing about getting ya hands busy making things :)
With everything that's happened with EK, would you be up for doing a video on what brands you'd recommend for water cooling? There's a lot of good information out there but it would be nice to have it all in one place
One brand you can try for colored liquid is Mayhems. I did some research after my issues with mystic fog fallout and decided to give them a shot. I purchased their X1 Eco UV Black and I’m sold, I’ll be sticking with them for a while. I’ve been running this current setup for roughly 2 years now and it’s as dark as day 1! One of the best black fluids I’ve ever seen. 😁
Something that Teenage Engineering and EK share in common is that lurid, vibrant orange. Different shades, but still _obnoxiously_ orange. _Annoyingly_ orange some might say. As a matter of coincidence, the colour scheme and iconography for Canonical's Ubuntu heavily incorporates orange. What is it about trash companies associating themselves with the colour orange?
@@bluephreakr That orange makes me think of Prusa 3D and LMG too. Prusa is highly respected in the 3d printer community, but are known for consistently scuffed product launches. I guess tech companies just like orange.
LITERALLY THIS HAPPENED TO ME. Sort of. This Alphacool reservior came in my Hurrican kit; and it worked in ARGB for about 24 hrs while I did burn in. after I did a Windows update, the LED went kaput! Alphacool had me send them my invoice to start the RMA process already.
I really wanted to use one of those reservoirs for my own build. Only thing is, the big one was too tall to fit in my case, and the next size down was comically small looking. I also wanted a large diameter reservoir to take up some space in the front to back orientation. I ended up using an 80mm Koolance reservoir and some modified brackets.
Can we get more Nick and Phil acting out whats happening? Their acting out bottle necking was preem for describing how that happens and now I cant get enough of that. Love the content as always Jay! Hope your feeling even a little better!
Jay, I would really like to see you try 5/8" PETG. Not only does it look better in larger cases, it flows a ton better. Bit tougher to bend, but I am sure you have more than enough skill for it.
I love the water cooling and the majority of your content. That's why I subbed so long ago, plus you helped me get rid of the fear of using water to cool my system. You guys seems like good people after all these years of watching and keep up the awesome work!
Finally seeing the light with clear fluid. If you use frosted tubes the fact you are using clear become moot. Also, thank you for showing how those Alphacool pump/re combos go together; yeah, they're pretty and such but a pita to take apart. I'll stick with my Singularity Computers Protiums thank you!
There needs to be a (low value, like 63ohm) resistor between first addressable RGB and the controller. Without the resistor, the led try to get energy from the data pin if 5v isn't connected. I'm not wondering that this resistor is missing in manufacturer design as it is "optional". That's also the reason why you aren't supposed to (de)connect addressable led while powered on.
I feel ya, I love taking my time building a new computer and getting everything right. Then when I’m done I have nothing to do on it haha my friends always joke about how 3D mark is my favorite game
The Cut Tube in the Top of the Reservoir Needs to be Notched like a Castle Top from a Chess Board. You are introducing Laminar Flow into the Reservoir and this will produce Dead Zones in the Fluid Inhibiting Heat Exchange and Reducing Effective Volume. The Notches Provide Necessary Points for the Fluid Flow to be Broken Up into a Non-Laminar Flow Pattern. This Promotes Mixing and the Use of the Entire Reservoir Volume. In Fact... the way Jay Cleaned the ends with the Reamer, making them look so nice, actually made the Problem Much, MUCH worse. Stupid Universe. XD
you ever used 91% alcohol to clean off some of the items. cleans, sanitizes and evaporates. just gotta be careful with actual painted finishes as it can strip/cloud paint. also jay youre a car guy, try using some type of anti fog and glass sealant. maybe that can help with future fogging issues.
Pretty sure those tubes had the holes on them in order to agitate and cycle all the water properly. With them cut off and removed some water will probably start to stagnate and not cycle properly in the reservoir.
I have the same reservoar, and that one did not hold air. Picked it apart, put it back together...still not holding air. Filled the loop anyway and hoped for the best, 2 years later and still no leaks. Guess water is thicker than air.
When cleaning those glass tubes, a trick to make them extra shiny is to spray 70% rubbing alcohol, and wipe that with the microfiber cloth. And if you don't want fingerprints on it, just put some of that alcohol on your hands beforehand.
Just go clear Jay, ran Clear EK coolant for 7yrs w/out maintenance and it remained clear (also was running their ZMT tubing) - not sure who they source their fluids from since originally it was Mayhems X1 branded for them.
I can't help but have the mental image of Phil in my head, as he stands there holding the camera above his head while filming Jay working at the table. Get Phil a rig! 😀
I'm totally clueless as to the intricacies of water cooling are.. but, wouldn't you rather have sediment collect in your reservoir, rather than being sucked into the impeller and gunking up the pump/water block? I could see that being the reason for the longer lower intake tube, and the upper return tube forcing coolant to the sides to avoid the lower intake and put whatever sediment may form in a safe area.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
little bit of physics, the glass didn't get foggy because it got hot inside, the increased pressure rises the boiling point of water or when it evaporates. You putting pressure in the system regardless of the generated heat forces humidity in the air to fall out and build droplets, once the pressure drops the water can evaporate again and be picked up by the air.
This. I believe its also why you can see the cloud around the jet as it breaks sound barrier, if i remember correctly
This is the correct explanation. Hope jay reads this
On a related point: having some squishy air in the top of the reservoir helps absorb the small increases in water volume from heating without the static pressure of the system shooting up.
Genuienly found this interesting :)
According to Alphacool's description on their site those inserts are for the inlets. If you don't fill the res all the way those holes would act as jets shooting the water against the wall for a fountain effect. That's why the bottom tube was longer than the top. You only would use one of them depending on where your loop return was connected.
Yep...I have been using Alphacool reservoirs for a long time...I actually kind of like the fountian effect...I had one of those helix reservoirs a while back also
Besides the fountain effect, it helps with keeping air (micro) bubbles further away from the pump feed/outlet in the bottom, helping with loop de-aeration.
Bottom inlet: use tall insert, bubbles are shot closer to the top, laterally.
Top inlet: use the shorter inserts, same logic, bubbles are shot laterally, close to the top, and they go up, away from the pump.
Especially for top inlet designs, if you have a high flow loop and shoot the stream directly down, there are higher chances that bubbles will get down back into the pump and get recirculated. If the stream shoots laterally, chances the bubbles go up and not get caught back into the pump suction stream increase significantly.
But in the end, the benefit is only marginal, it speeds up the bubble clearing from ~a week to maybe a few days. And then it does not matter.
That’s absolutely an ADHD moment when you open the case to do one thing but end up taking all of it apart, something you said you’re absolutely not doing
Yea shit is so annoying iv never took any medicine for it but it is slowly ruining my life nj and everyone thinks I just don't care or do it on purpose I'm 31 and about as far in life as an 18 year old that just moved out 😅
Actually, ADHD would have made him open the case, start taking it apart, then start doing something else, then 3 other things. If anything this demonstrates OCD. Or maybe it's just totally normal behavior when you're dedicated to making something as nice as it can be. Not all behavior is symptomatic of an underlying condition.
@@clintstathisalso many conditions are on a spectrum and different for everyone. This could indeed be a symptom of adhd.
@iamaduckquack yea that's my problem I got anywhere it'll take me hours when it's a thirty min trip it's stressful then you realize it get mad try to focus and do it again ten minutes later can't do anything on time bills, appointments, life in general fml
Oh look 🐇😅.
That bottom one isn't a pickup for the pump. It's an alternate inlet if your return is at the bottom instead of coming down from the top.
I have one of these Alphacool reservoirs. I just took it out. I also modified the short pipe so the holes are angled so the res swirls. That way it doesn't _churn_ air into the water enough to get down to the inlet and instead spins it out.
Neat! Do the jets (un- and modified) make any additional noise? My inlet tube is completely submerged and makes no sound obviously and at idle my PC is quieter than a completely silent room.
@@LEXXIUS Not in mine, now. Mine are submerged ~5mm, so with the pump at full speed it will make some vorticies around the edges, but no, no noise that I can hear. At that point the fans have ramped up as well, and even though I try to get the quietist I can, they are still louder than any noise from the res/pump even catching a bit of air. At the same level the OEM configuration caught a lot of air & was audible.
I ended up cutting the end off, including the OEM 'holes' and used the Dremel to cut the slots back in at the angle & size I wanted them, then glued the endplate back on. Flow is good & temps well under control.
The care in taking things apart, fixing issues and reassembling is very satisfying and a joy to watch! Looking forward to seeing Skunkworks in its final new form once again.
Just a quick heads up no o rings should be put in dry, silicon lubricant sprayed onto a microfibre towel & wiped on the o ring makes shore that no tears/slits are formed on the o ring during assembly. Great to see the build progressing.
I know it's not opaque but I often seen it called mystic CLOG for a reason
Damn, now I'm super nervous to take apart my wife's system as she's been running it for a while now and I haven't been able to take it apart can really clean it for a year now.
@@joshua41175 Just an FYI they recommend you fluid swap Mystic Fog every 6 months. The particles can easily fall out of the solution. It's even worse with truly opaque fluids.
It is an opaque coolant simply with a lower density of nanoparticles. In some ways, this makes it more susceptible to clogging than a fully opaque coolant. Opaque coolants require very specific steps and even loop design to minimize fallout and they need to be in motion. Opaque coolants should almost never be allowed to sit. The first thing to do is to design a loop with limited dead water zones. Use the top inlet of your reservoir as using the bottom makes the reservoir a dead water zone. Avoid extreme bends, filters, flow meters, or anything that creates unnecessary restriction. if you follow the mix guidelines, fully and completely clean and prep the loop, then do a coolant swap after about a week to a clean batch of mystic fog or whatever opaque coolant you used for the initial fill, you will be fine barring some weird material reaction which, while rare, technically can happen. Better yet, transparent colored or clear coolants with clear, frosted, opaque, matte, or satin tube will always be way easier to work with.
All my mystic fog coolant went completely clear after about a month, which kinda sucks. But my temps didn't seem to rise any, so my guess is all the crud is stuck in bottom radiator, rather than the fins of the CPU and GPU blocks. Just gonna roll with it until it's time to do a coolant swap, and then I'll go with clear, and maybe switch to frosted tubing.
I just built my a new pc 14900KS 4080 super. My last pc build was 7 years ago. I haven't stayed informed in pc parts/builds at all. HOLY shit thing have changed. I used your channel a lot to find answers to all my questions. Just wanted to say thank you because I had so many problems from the start.
Temp to high- All volt defult BIOS setting for the 14900ks incorrect.
I manual input intels limits L 125, S 253, CL 307
I undervolt CPU 0.085
Fix allmost all the heat problems.
How to make proper fan curve for all fans.
3 cores for some reason 15° hotter then the rest.
Added new CPU Contact Frame.
Added 3 more fans facing GPU.
CPU runs at 50° gaming now.
GPU runs at 53° gaming now.
At 4k.
No more odd 3 cores heat problem.
Cinebench max temp now max 78°
40732score.
AIO- Died , Fault with middle fan after one week. Replaced
DDR5 doesn't play nice with 4 sticks.
XMP Failed.
Added RGB under the case.
RBG is simply if you purchase the correct items. DONT get usb rgb motherboard can't control it.
Added all white cable extensions. Don't plug directly into PSU.
All of the problems I had. This channel had the solution. Crazy tbh
You should have avoided Intel, LOL
I literally did the same a year and half ago! 13900k and 4080 FE. Though 10 year gap lol. Went through EXACTLY the same stuff as you! The only thing I haven't done yet is fan curves. What case did you go for? I was running on the cardboard box and then snapped up the nzxt h6 flow when it was released.
@@Njazmointel > amd LOL
The pump will not work correctly, because the filter in the inlay has to be positioned on the top left. At 14:27 you will see it is the opposite position. The riser tube in the bottom is used for the return flow, if you use the lower port for return
As a heavy equipment mechanic it pained me to watch you put those pumps together with nothing lubing the o-rings/seals. There is a fantastic product out there called Sil-Glyde lubricating compound. I've used it for assembling hydraulic cylinders, engine cylinder liners, radiator hose, etc. Might be worth checking out. A little goes a long way.
that's looks like SI much fun
it is indeed *_SI_* Much Fun
Definitely prefer the glass reservoirs. For a number of reasons.
The one in my old rig ran for 7 years with kool-aid red fluid in it the whole time. Zero staining. Can be used in some other project with a different color later. Pretty positive acrylic would be permanently red/pink by now.
Add to that glass just looks better and doesn't scratch? Winner every time.
The bottom diffuser is to prevent cavitation. This can damage the pump eventually.
Thank you for your details and depth of explanations. The porcelain vs glass really caught my ear… 😄
I know it's not a big deal, but there's a typo in the title of the video you might wanna fix.
The reason for the longer pickup tube is probably to encourage sediment to be captured into the reservoir. Rather than be re-circulated through your loop potentially glogging cooling channels.
For really high end cooling.
Go straight water. A drop of dawn dish soap.
Change water every few weeks~
Anything in water displaces water and water is the best for heat capacity.
If you still want it to be more diffuse, you could take some sort of vellum paper or maybe some poly paper and wrap it around the reservoir. Then the paper would distribute the light from the inside more evenly
Your explanation at the end for why you enjoy doing this was perfect Jay. I always loved working on the cars and planes I got to play with, even if I didn't get in the seat. I just did it like I could have been the driver/pilot and would be confident that, in the end, everything is done right.
A few bubbles would be beneficial as it would quieten down the flow if you have air in a vertical radiator. It would also reduce surface tension to ensure a better contact of water to steel / copper / plastic. It might not make a measurable difference, but it won't hurt.
Just a little trick with the O-rings, you can use petroleum jelly (vaseline) on them to help with a good seal and the longevity of the O-ring so it doesn’t dry out. Just a tip. Thanks for the video
plot twist: Jay is a fish tank technician fooling us into believing he is a pc guy, he knows to much about water pumps SUS
I built my loop last August and it’s still looking clean. Just use clear coolant like Koolance 702 clear. I used edpm rubber tubing as well. If you use clear coolant you can change the led colors at any time and the coolant will match it
I'm happy you opened the pump to clean it, we decided to go for Alphacool and Aqua Computer, instead EK... I asked at some time about the AC "D5" pumps. But now I noticed how those pumps are build, thank you very much. It's odd the led string got stuck. But we use chroma argb controllers, so we have to look out for those kinds of problems. Thanks again.
I just wanted to mention that alphacool has a great support. Some years ago I dropped an Icebear AIO and dented the copper baseplate. Alphacool sent me a replacement, free of charge. Even it was my mistake and not their fault. Recently they replaced a Core 200 pump/reservoir, free of charge. I had it lying around for 8 months and put it only then in my pc for the first time. The pump made strange noises. Alphacool wanted the faulty pump back and sent me a new pump and reservoir. Nice guys.
I relate so much to the preference to building and assembling to using. I am right around your age and find myself tinkering with my computer/car/models than actually using them. There is something so satisfying about seeing something you've put work into come to life.
I absolutely love the Alphacool pumps. I bought one when they first came out like 10 years ago and it served me great until a year or 2 ago. They had terrible reviews and a high failure rate, but mine was excellent. I am now using a real D5 and it is much louder and constantly bubbles and groans randomly. If Alphacool could get the failure rate down they could kill the D5. This reminds me that I need to buy another one to replace the D5 next time I drain my loop.
You might have air trapped in your loop, either from the reservoir being too low on water in general, or due to the way your lines are positioned. Especially possible if you're using soft tubing and the loop has been in place for a long time. Air getting pushed through the pump will cause a lot of noise, an it's about the only thing that will cause bubbling.
Thanks for continuing to put out quality content. Seem like yesterday I was watching you make videos from a room in your house. I don't have the money to invest in high quality components and water-cooling, so I live vicariously through you.
Might as well use the EK part. They already got your money it's not like anything is helped by it sitting there.
It's the principle of it, Skunkworks would be appearing in the studio / thumb nails etc therefore earning the channel some sort of revenue.
I did learn something by all this, that I can be happy with my water tight prefab corsair H100i instead of all that extra cleaning. Oh man I thought I was complaining about having to take off the radiator fans to clean "hard to get" fuzz in between the fans and radiator then I realize I got it easy after seeing this
I've never done watercooling but I do find these interesting. I love modifying things to get a solution. Great idea here.
My experience on my first time watercooling with hard tubing was to find unexpected snags and having to figure them out, like the thick 60mm push-pull rad was way too massive in the front (Thermaltake Core P5), so I had to find a way to put the 4 fans on the inside and how to make a seal for the airflow as the case had metal bent inwards for rigidity. Another one was to find the right length spacers and washers to make my pump and reservoir stand out more and not be hidden behind the radiator (EKWB pump mount and reservoir clamps have different mounting distances...), and another one was my Seasonic PSU fan was making a ticking bearing noise (normal for some bearings) and had no RGB (the whole corner of the build was just dark), so I carefully removed the warranty sticker and replaced the 135 mm fan with a 140mm Corsair fan. I had to adjust the screw holes with a dremel and made them a bit too loose but it holds.
I also wrapped the whole case and parts in an automotive film wrap with a hexagonal pattern which made the case look a 1000 times better than the rough matte finish with a bunch of holes it was before.
I totally get you with the preference for building as a hobby vs. ... doing stuff with the thing you built. I just built the second PC I've ever made for myself and the process of learning about all the parts, deciding what I wanted, putting the thing together, testing it, was WAY more fun and satisfying than the actual gaming I've done on it since. And I love the games! But little tops that feeling of creation, and even the mini-creation involved in maintaining/upgrading/improving something, to me. Wish I could afford to keep building but I won't be able to afford that for a while. For now I'll have to content myself with playing the games... I GUESS.
On second thought, I could always get back into Skyrim. And by Skyrim, I mean modding Skyrim, which is kind of an act of creation as you build the shaky Jenga tower of mods, all to use them for the like 30 minutes of actually playing Skyrim I'll probably end up doing.
I get your feelings on water cooling. I enjoy the challenge of distro and tubing .
Why aren't you using that pump,
Jay: "Its got an EK logo on it", Hahaha
Sadly, I don't have Jay's money. So I'll have to keep my EK pumps until they explode like a Gigabyte PSU. LOL
@@OlettaLianono one's gonna fault you for doing what you gotta do. If they do, they're stupid. It's the mindset that counts
@@OlettaLiano relatable
Especially with the prices of EK stuff
Anddd wow he’s not using their pump, but EVERYTHING apart from the pump/res in this build is ek… bruh does it matter at this point.
I love the water cooling videos. I decided to water cool my PC because of you. I like the way the hardline tubing looks. Geez, it was back when you just upgraded to the GTX 780s.
i was thinking, why not use frosted tube and reservoir with clear liquid instead of a milky one that turn into gunk over time?
Agreed
So he has more content to make every few weeks
I like using nickel plated copper lines because of this. They are hard to get right, but so worth it.
You know that's pretty smart
Jay! Typo spotted, "si much fun". Wonder how long it will take for him to notice.
Pressure and Temperature are related, but two different things. Higher pressure or temperature generally indicates more energy density.
For vacuum filling the system, you’ll be glad you put that o-ring back in. 👍🏻
They have them long because you can have return and outlet on the same side. The return should then have long pipe so it leads the bubbles away from the outlet
Thanks for this one guys. I like getting to see the teardown of individual parts. Most of the time we just see whole pieces installed. Like I know what a pump / res does, but I also want to see how it does what it does.
You know those old bubble light towers? Always wanted to make one into a water cooler reservoir.
One of those full size 4ftX.5ft ones with the little plastic fish. Not the new desk sized ones.
Yeah, the algae growth would be insane, but the air bubbling through it would add a (small) bit of cooling.
Title reads "si much fun" at the moment
I’ve got that exact resivoir with bad leds. Love the look, thanks for the tutorial.
Try just making your own mystic fog like coolant. I've had good success with it. For instance, use Mayhems Clear concentrate or XSPC clear as a base, then add in just a little bit of opaque white while matching the mix ratio of each to what is recommended. Then you can add in whatever dye you want if you want it colored. You can vary the opacity with this method as well. Another good option is to dilute a particle free opaque coolant(these only exist with ethelene glycol so don't use PETG tubing with them) by about 30% with the same coolant in clear. This will give you a coolant that is still opaque when unlit, but will be somewhat transparent when lit. So far, with over a year in use for a couple of them, I haven't had a single issue, such as color shift, fallout, or clogging, with coolant colors produced using these methods.
I like the mod, just 1 thing: The bottom tube isn't a pickup. It's the bottom return, you you choose too use it.
I know because I have 2 of the same reservoirs, and I'm using the bottom return on mine, not the top.
Also, make sure to keep your o-rings covered/contained when not in placement. Dust, etc, could literally ruin the function. Make sure it’s clean before reinstalling 🤗
Around 11:00, Porcelain VS Glass. I've had similar issues; I now just put down a towel if I have to clean glass in a porcelain sink. It's messy, sure, but better than breaking it :)
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE JAYAMAN.
Jay, I want to compliment you. Of all the enthusiast computer channels, yours has always been the best. Even though I loathe commercials since I have TH-cam Premium to avoid them, your use of them (other than WOW) are the best integrated in the world of youtube. Your persona on your channel is fun without being childish (points to Linus Tech Commercials). You explain well and you bring humanity and character to your channel. You shared in the past about some health issues and I pray you are doing better and that is being treated. You are an asset to the computer tech world and never change. You are a great soul. And not many youtubers can even hold that award even if they have youtube awards on their wall.
take the impellor out, hold the bowl and rotate the very top of the rotor anti clockwise..... it unlocks and you can deep clean inside it......
si much fun guys
My 2021 PC is the first PC I've ever owned that hasn't overheated. It's also my first to use watercooling.
Clear fluid, don't want to clog up the super fine micro fins on the Optimus blocks.
I will never do that, but thank you for taking us along the ride!
It'd be cool to put a second glass that's slightly wider, fill that with fog and keep normal coolant in the actual loop
thank you for this video Jay, videos like this take a lot of the fear out of getting into water cooling.
im the same, i enjoy rebuilding/cleaning my pc and just pcs in general alot more than using them and the software side, people called me weird because of it. same with cars too, rather fix them or change parts than actualy drive them, just somthing about getting ya hands busy making things :)
If you take hot glue and go over the leds nicely you can defuse the lighting
With everything that's happened with EK, would you be up for doing a video on what brands you'd recommend for water cooling? There's a lot of good information out there but it would be nice to have it all in one place
XSPC also just started making a Mystic Fog coolant. Saw it recently at Titan Rig
One brand you can try for colored liquid is Mayhems. I did some research after my issues with mystic fog fallout and decided to give them a shot. I purchased their X1 Eco UV Black and I’m sold, I’ll be sticking with them for a while. I’ve been running this current setup for roughly 2 years now and it’s as dark as day 1! One of the best black fluids I’ve ever seen. 😁
I vaguely recall some sort of falling out between Mayhems and Jay a few years ago. Fluid kept separating and discoloring.
i remeber watching jayzTwoCents years ago when i was a young boy and i check in sometimes and i cant beleive skunkworks is still going
fun fact, that's an EK tube reamer tool at 8:40
Something that Teenage Engineering and EK share in common is that lurid, vibrant orange. Different shades, but still _obnoxiously_ orange. _Annoyingly_ orange some might say. As a matter of coincidence, the colour scheme and iconography for Canonical's Ubuntu heavily incorporates orange. What is it about trash companies associating themselves with the colour orange?
@@bluephreakr That orange makes me think of Prusa 3D and LMG too.
Prusa is highly respected in the 3d printer community, but are known for consistently scuffed product launches.
I guess tech companies just like orange.
@@bluephreakr high visibility 💀
LITERALLY THIS HAPPENED TO ME. Sort of. This Alphacool reservior came in my Hurrican kit; and it worked in ARGB for about 24 hrs while I did burn in. after I did a Windows update, the LED went kaput! Alphacool had me send them my invoice to start the RMA process already.
Labor of love. I get it because I started doing it 30 years ago and wish I could build systems all day. But that’s not financially viable.
I really wanted to use one of those reservoirs for my own build. Only thing is, the big one was too tall to fit in my case, and the next size down was comically small looking. I also wanted a large diameter reservoir to take up some space in the front to back orientation. I ended up using an 80mm Koolance reservoir and some modified brackets.
Can we get more Nick and Phil acting out whats happening? Their acting out bottle necking was preem for describing how that happens and now I cant get enough of that. Love the content as always Jay! Hope your feeling even a little better!
Jay, I would really like to see you try 5/8" PETG. Not only does it look better in larger cases, it flows a ton better. Bit tougher to bend, but I am sure you have more than enough skill for it.
I love the water cooling and the majority of your content. That's why I subbed so long ago, plus you helped me get rid of the fear of using water to cool my system. You guys seems like good people after all these years of watching and keep up the awesome work!
Finally seeing the light with clear fluid. If you use frosted tubes the fact you are using clear become moot. Also, thank you for showing how those Alphacool pump/re combos go together; yeah, they're pretty and such but a pita to take apart. I'll stick with my Singularity Computers Protiums thank you!
There needs to be a (low value, like 63ohm) resistor between first addressable RGB and the controller. Without the resistor, the led try to get energy from the data pin if 5v isn't connected. I'm not wondering that this resistor is missing in manufacturer design as it is "optional". That's also the reason why you aren't supposed to (de)connect addressable led while powered on.
I'm always amazed at how much stuff is in a PC when it's all outside and lying around
I feel ya, I love taking my time building a new computer and getting everything right. Then when I’m done I have nothing to do on it haha my friends always joke about how 3D mark is my favorite game
XSPC's fog fluid is awesome.
This definitely was si much fun
I'll likely never have a watercooled build, but I still enjoy the build videos.
Si Much fun
The Cut Tube in the Top of the Reservoir Needs to be Notched like a Castle Top from a Chess Board.
You are introducing Laminar Flow into the Reservoir and this will produce Dead Zones in the Fluid Inhibiting Heat Exchange and Reducing Effective Volume.
The Notches Provide Necessary Points for the Fluid Flow to be Broken Up into a Non-Laminar Flow Pattern. This Promotes Mixing and the Use of the Entire Reservoir Volume.
In Fact... the way Jay Cleaned the ends with the Reamer, making them look so nice, actually made the Problem Much, MUCH worse. Stupid Universe. XD
you ever used 91% alcohol to clean off some of the items. cleans, sanitizes and evaporates. just gotta be careful with actual painted finishes as it can strip/cloud paint. also jay youre a car guy, try using some type of anti fog and glass sealant. maybe that can help with future fogging issues.
Love these disassembly videos Jay, you do such a good job explaining what you are doing and why. How did you know what LED strip to buy?
I really enjoy this type of video, thanks Jay
Jay I think you've been the reason I want to watercool my next build. I have a tower 900 so I have plenty of room haha
This is such an awesome video! I love learning now things.
Pretty sure those tubes had the holes on them in order to agitate and cycle all the water properly. With them cut off and removed some water will probably start to stagnate and not cycle properly in the reservoir.
For those wondering Optimus of all brands has the cheapest legit D5's by far and they are SATA power not Molex.
I have the same reservoar, and that one did not hold air. Picked it apart, put it back together...still not holding air. Filled the loop anyway and hoped for the best, 2 years later and still no leaks. Guess water is thicker than air.
XSPC PURE Premix Distilled PC Coolant, 1 Liter, Luminara is another "Mystic Fog" style Im thinking about getting some when I change out my coolant
When cleaning those glass tubes, a trick to make them extra shiny is to spray 70% rubbing alcohol, and wipe that with the microfiber cloth.
And if you don't want fingerprints on it, just put some of that alcohol on your hands beforehand.
Rain-x is magical, give that a shot some time
@@philondezRubbing alcohol is a thing almost everyone has lying around, and it's a food safe thing you can do if you care about that.
I wonder if the pump intake tube opening is vital for proper operation. Too much head can be hard on water pumps.
I enjoy how often that tiny chop saw is used when it was bought as a joke IIRC. I'm starting to think i need to pick one up LOL
Just go clear Jay, ran Clear EK coolant for 7yrs w/out maintenance and it remained clear (also was running their ZMT tubing) - not sure who they source their fluids from since originally it was Mayhems X1 branded for them.
I can't help but have the mental image of Phil in my head, as he stands there holding the camera above his head while filming Jay working at the table. Get Phil a rig! 😀
I'm totally clueless as to the intricacies of water cooling are.. but, wouldn't you rather have sediment collect in your reservoir, rather than being sucked into the impeller and gunking up the pump/water block? I could see that being the reason for the longer lower intake tube, and the upper return tube forcing coolant to the sides to avoid the lower intake and put whatever sediment may form in a safe area.
Anyone mention the title typo yet
I could absolutely watch you disassemble/clean/reassemble computers all day, Jay.
He never aging but I'm still watch all his video till the end
that paper tower holder is the best
I would say that it's so enjoyable and rewarding to drive a car you actually built/rebuilt/repaired.
The same goes for the computer 😁
Love the video title, reflects Jay's Dyslexia so well.