it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
The “decapitate” part of the manual is probably due to the fact that Roman calls deliding “köpfen” in German which literally means just that. Considering the amount of CPUs he’s already destroyed during deliding I think that’s actually a pretty accurate term for it 😂😂
"köpfen" is actually a pretty common term used by many germans in hardware forums - "Temperatur probleme, CPU geköpft oder nicht - thermal problems cpu delided or not". It's just our way: one syllable less to pronounce 😜
It was neat to watch the delidding, but I was also hoping to see how you got it all back into the system. I was a little disappointed that it jumped from getting the top off to running the benchmarks.
I'll give you one guess why he didn't show that part, and yes, I was deeply disappointed as well. It's literally the only reason I was watching this stupid video of a grown man risking the functionality of an extremely expensive CPU for literally no good reason whatsoever. Delidding CPUs is just trash nonsense.
Would have been interesting to see where the clockspeed ends up with the 85°C limit and the -40mV offset to see if it is worth doing that (probably not but I'm still curious).
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
@@yoool7137 A few months in I would be comfortable using the lapping tool though. That would get the IHS down to a 5000 series thickness and tame the temps. 95 C does not feel right
I delided a 4790K years ago, used the vice method,, this was before you could buy a delidding tool, now that was truly terrifying! thankfully all went well, I applied some liquid metal pro and temps dropped a good 15 degrees, probably the best CPU I ever owned as far as overclockability, these days I don't bother as it's not worth voiding the warranty and overclocking is pretty much automatic these days (kind of lost its cool factor) unless you're into LN2 extreme overclocking otherwise it's just not worth the hassle
I think with these new temperature norms, delidding is going to be worth it again. I mean, look at the fact that he's 20 degrees lower with lower wattage with equal/better performance. That's absolutely worth losing warranty over, IMO.
@@LiveType bro, hyper 212’s are 60$ nowadays It’s stupid… But a great replacement is the Thermaltake UX200 SE Comes with an RGB fan and is just as quiet and cools just as well as a 212 while costing 1/2 as much
@@rustler08 This happened because AMD wanted to "keep" the AM4 mounting but in order to achieve that the IHS got thicker and that is not helping with the heat dissipation. The thicker the IHS the harder it is to dissipate heat. Just like MSI did on the RX 5700XT, they used un-GODLY thick thermal pads on one of their GPU models and the memory temps where through the roof.
@@Mainstayjay My 4790k is in my main rig and I feel the same way...although I'm going to wait until I make the switch back to team red before I break my 4790k.
Jay, consider investing in some Kimwipes and acid brushes for cleaning PCBs. The brushes allow for getting into tighter spots and the Kimwipes are fiberless so you can use them to pick up the grime, flux, pastes, etc remnants that you loosed with the brush.
Acid brushes leave bristles everywhere, don’t do that. Kim wipes are good but of limited use here. Starting with a razor blade and removing the bull in one big piece is best
Thanks for recommending kimwipes. I almost bought the blue shop towel because that's what everyone's using, but it's not locally common here in the Philippines.
Kryonaut Extreme definitely has 1 to 3c better cooling but it also dries out quite a bit faster, as far as my experience shows. You want to re-apply yearly or you lose that extra thermal conductivity. If your going for overclocks or just peak performance it's one of the best you can buy. If your looking to build a system and use it long-term without changing components don't want to re-applying thermal paste regularly there are some better options for longevity over thermal conductivity.
Kryonaut is not great at high temperatures and the new gen is all about that. I don't know about the extreme version though but I believe it's an issue. I'm using MX-6.
I’m using graphite pads and my 7950X doesn’t hit 95 degrees until it’s well overclocked. Yes the IHS is awful and cooler compatibility wasn’t worth the compromise, but the hysteria is overblown. It’s not that big an issue. Certainly there’s no need to start lapping or delidding.
I used the NT-H1 on my CPUs and now 1 GPU the other Day. As far as i can tell it doesnt dry out for quiet some Time and it is one of the Best Thermal Pastes out there (for reasonable Price).
that's true. that's why most of mid to high range of pastes need few cycles of heat and cooling to really give their best. they last longer but they take more time to give their best. high end Grizzly is really made for OCers that don't wanna lose time with that. they give their best almost right out of the seringe. but you have to replace more often. which is not an issue for a pc nerd. honestly i'd rather change it every year and have best cooling possible than using cheap paste. it's really not that hard to do. but i can understand people not liking to do it. it's like running a car with old engine oil... many people push that to the limit and even way further. which is really not good at all.
They are ball bearings, but they are thrust bearings. So they are designed to allow movement on 2 parallel flat surfaces rather than just an axis inside a raceway. If that knife you are opening the box with is a higher quality one, it may have thrust bearing on the pivot to let the blade flick open without the resistance you would get if it was just a nylon washer.
22:06 Literally the thing that keeps me from doing any manual overclocking. These names are too arbitrary, some are there some seem to be missing, then it changes based on board manufacturer. I'm just too afraid I'll fry something because I misunderstood the name.
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
@Defective Degenerate Besides speed, this helps maximize the efficiency of the cooler, keep components running at lower temps and lower voltage for better longevity, and lower noise of fans.
Not much difference actually I run a 7950x with bitspower block 360 Rad and idle temp is 36c on a strix 670e, the only Temps it actually helps is the 95c limit.
@@nick_pappagiorgio longevity???? Practically no one who does these stupid modifications keep a pc longer than a few years.. because they damage more then they help. 🤦♂️
FYI, isopropyl alcohol technically leaves residue. If you want alcohol to leave absolutely NO residue, you need to use denatured alcohol (found at Home Depot).
Colgate also makes two extra soft brushes. They have one that has a large surface area of bristles, with the other one having a much more thinned out & rather point styled one. Both work really well for cleaning out sensitive spots on uncured resin prints, so I imagine that it would work rather well for this sort of application also.
The curve optimizer offset is just under the PBO settings. In my motherboard its under "amd overclocking". You dont have to change any of the voltages themselves.
Could be Asrock's bios is just kinda broken 😅... no motherboard OEM is infallible. Have had some wierd bios issues with my aorus elite x570 with settings not sticking (that was almost 3 years ago - built my current in Sept 2019) after that I only install bios revisions that don't have a letter in the version name.
@@earthtaurus5515 Probably bad settings, I have the same board and it will flake out easily if you push some things too much or change one thing at the wrong time. Curve Optimizer is usually hidden in the PBO menu. Set PBO to manual it shows up.
@@earthtaurus5515i learned that when you have an OC failure followed with hard reboot or auto reboot it messes up the saves. that's why i always do a clear CMOS when it fails. i always restart with a fresh clean bios. i just write my best results on paper. like this i can safely work on overclocking without having weird response from bios. once the best result found, i just create a profil with only 1 save. i don't leave multiple saves.
Jay "I'm German. My mother is from munich" Me, a German: "That's Bavaria. That's not Germany ;)" Oh and for the 3 people, who understand that reference: Nochmal Bayern 👍
Mate, thanks a lot for this video. My order for the new Ryzen CPUs was litterally waiting for a video that showed me if it was possible to delid this thing and gain some degrees. Good job :)
Maybe we can have a future where CPUs are sold without lids and instead all coolers come with built-in lids for a more direct heat transfer that doesn't require thermal paste?
Eagerly awaiting this delidding tool to hit retail, have been working slowly on a custom case and running the cpu daily since launch to check for flaws before I finally tear up my warranty 🤞
I use paint brush to wash cpus with alcohol, literally wash them, much softer than toothbrush, and to remove solder I use Flitz polish paste tube, it will just dissolve the tin solder and show you the mirror glass cover of the silicon wafer, perfectly clear not a scratch.
I have the same motherboard with a 7950x. I didn't change TJmax, but I did test and validate -30 on all cores. I was a little confused by your original clocks, considering I'm hitting around 5.3GHz on all cores _with_ _air_ _cooling._ I don't care if it hits 95C. It's a safe temp, according to the manufacturer. Actually, they say 105 is technically safe. If the CPU lasts until they've released a couple more generations of AM5 CPUs, it will have done its job. With air cooling, there's virtually no cool-down period after returning to idle, so I don't need to worry about heat-soaked coolant reducing performance later. I also don't have to worry about lost coolant, pump failures, or leaks. Heck, I even tested with the CPU fan removed (in a fractal torrent) and the performance barely changed. I'm still tempted to de-lid, but I'd probably try some PTM 7950 rather than liquid metal. That should only be a difference of a couple of degrees. My cooler is already modified to fit AM5, modifying it further to fit a delidded CPU would be trivial.
Yeah it's safe but prob not ideal for longevity. They just need to get it to survive long enough to check off some requirements on a list to call it safe.
I managed to delid my 5800x yesterday with a vice. It somehow survived. Blade method is good for getting the tim off. I messed around trying other methods but the blade got everything super flat and clean. I can't believe it still works to be honest.
The thing with the "decapitation" translation is, that in German we say "köpfen" if we delid a cpu. So it's not a dark translation, rather a dark word we use for deliding, because it literally means decapitating or even more literally beheading. Kopf --> Head. Köpfen --> Beheading :D
I want to share a tip for cleaning sensitive things. Makeup brushes. The eyeliner ones, or slightly bigger, i use a lot of stuff from makeup section for a lot of sensitive accurate things, they feel premium compared to art store brushes, and are sometimes cheaper. That being said, toothbrush is sensitive enough if you are careful. Smaller brushes are good if you feel the need for a little more sensitive tools to compensate for hands shaking when doing a scary operation like this. I know i'm taking the slow route.
The most amazing thing I learned from this video was that there was a keyboard shortcut for task manager! It never occurred to me in nearly 3 decades that one even existed until I saw Jay do it at 3:09. Don't know how I never knew that one.
ctrl-shift-esc has been around since win7, so it's a relatively newer one.. earlier versions used ctrl-alt-del to pop taskmgr directly or pop a menu that could get taskmgr
@@niteriderevo9179 It’s been around for ages. It’s the first trick my dad showed me when I got my first PC back in 1999 Edit: But it’s not only a OS specific thing. Crtl+Alt+Del triggers a hardware interrupt on the CPU (at least on x86 systems)
DerBauer: Pretty much idiot-proof! Jay: CHALLENGE ACCEPTED! Me: There is no such thing as "idiot-proof", as idiots are supremely gifted and innovative at screwing things up. ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU TEMPT THEM!
Yea... Motherboard manufacturers often pump the voltage up to the moon. It worked on CPUs before the whole auto boosting thing, to score a tiny bit higer than the competition, but now they raise it so much that it actually hurts performance. Using curve optimizer is usually a must because of that.
What I would love to see... a series of videos on various approaches to water-cooling. Like this: Build 3 or 4 identical systems simultaneously, each using different gauges of tubing and whatever variations we newbies have to choose between in each build so we can see exactly what is different in real time. Make sense?
For someone who is looking to build my first pc some time in the future, watching various videos, learning what I can and also wanting to buy the best products I can when the time comes… this seems way too much of a head f**k to be considered as a viable option.
I wish both Intel and AMD would sell their cpu without IHS as an option, I wonder why they add an IHS at all since we would all get better performance without it
voltage offset on Ryzen 7000 series may appear stable in CineBench but crash in Blender, so its best to test both for stability when overclocking/undervolting.
I prob watch 1 in 8 of your uploads... Now this is the content Ill always get around. Back 10 plus years ago, I learned from forums to BSEL mod my dual Xeons to be "Extreme editions"(1800mhz FSB). All it took was two 2mm bits of electrical tape on the CPU's. Tricked the motherboard to think the CPU's where double the FSB. This is extreme risk for reward. : )
Jay taking German just made my day. Because yes, "Flüssigmetallschutzdichtung" is a very bad word and definitely doesn't describe a peotective seal for liquid metal.
As someone who has a 7950x on the way and saw the various videos about the ihs / delidding I appreciate the videos. Definitely tempted but would have to figure out the mounting before I start ordering stuff.
And some additional money for the delid tool and liquid metal. And Iam not sure if/how often liquid metal has to be changed. If you have some cpu heavy software running and earn a living with it, why not. For just gaming? Keep the hood on since you will most likely be throttled by the gpu anyway:)
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
I'm so excited, I have a r9 7900x coming. Thought about going with the 7950 but for what I'm realistically going to do, the 7900x is already overkill. I figure since I'm not upgrading GPU this year I can still do the other major components and hopefully see an uplift.
in my case 7950x might be overkill but wanting to run a windows VM for gaming and doing coding at the same time I felt it's best to just go full force. Only negative is I'm not sure how much the GTX 1070 might hold me back but as long as GPUs don't skyrocket again in price I'm fine with waiting a bit longer.
@@U1TR4F0RCE I think honestly the price you can get some 30 series cards for they're a decent value at the moment. They're plenty capable especially with DLSS.
Personally Id like to see long term tests(5+years). DeBauer follow up videos with machines actually doing work for him would be excellent!... Same for you Jayz. Long term testing is the keyword. : )
You'll never see it, and it wouldn't be of any use anyway due to the variances in the wafers used to produce chips. What worked well on one chip may not work at all on another exact same type, but different wafer pressing. It's the nature of the beast as to how chip fabs work.
Using the same cpu modded long term tests would be nice to see. I have several 5-6 year old cpus still going with all sorts of cooling mods over the years. Usually it's the motherboard that gives up before the CPU. Wear an ESD strap when handling these things. Use an ESD mat. You will guarantee that no transistors are fried or fail later because of ESD. There are no backup transistors in there. If you have zapped a junction, you will know in 90 days, a year or two later. Wondering why it died all of a sudden?! If you put another cpu in the socket and it boots, well that was ESD that probably killed the cpu.
Been followring your content since 2020 when I got into pc stuff because of you. I learned a lot from you and will be continuing to watch and learn from your awesome content! PC building is very expensive here where I'm at, so even though without my own pc, watching your content makes my day. Cheers to you guys and I hope your content spread more. Happy thanksgiving to ya'll 😁
I'm definitely going to pick up a tube of that Thermal Grizzly compound. I'm running a 5900X and a little more thermal headroom in the Summer months would be a good thing.
I only use the kpx paste now. I've used the thermal grizzly kryo as well as just about everything else. Like the Kingpin paste the most. And it's pretty decently priced, 30 gram for $45 ish.
I remember the first video I saw of yours. Reviewing the fx 8350. Look where you are now. Always enjoy your content. Keep it up and keep the vids coming! 🙏🏽
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
Just watched your 4 year old video on the r5 2700x w/ wraith prism cooler running at ~4.2 semi-stable, knew you're probably not going to be looking at old video comments so I came to your latest video to thank you, I got an r7 3700x, at 4.2ghz and a vega 64 auto vram oc (adrenalin app) running star citizen @80avg on 1080p with the stock cooler. So again, thanks a ton for that video man!!
Kids these days are so spoiled. Back in my day if we wanted to de-lid our CPU we used a bench vise with a 2X4 and hammer, and we LIKED it!! Nothing like that adrenaline rush of smacking your new CPU with a hammer to make you feel ALIVE!!
I agree. Gamer's Nexus has a pretty good vid on exactly this. Any air will get caught at the highest point; in this case, the top of the rad where the tubing is. Here, air might be getting sucked in to the pump.
The problem is that ASRock bios sucks :D Jayz I would highly recommended you to change the motherboard in your final build. I'm afraid you will have some strange behaviours in your system.
Sorry, have you seen Gigabyte and MSI bioses? ASUS is the only manufacturer (maybe EVGA) that has better bioses than AsRock, and ASUS crams their motherboards full of bloatware like asus armoury and fills up system32, even copying file structures in program local. AsRock is one of the best vendors lol.
@@simoSLJ89 AsRock has the best reputation as a mainboard maker- are you high? I've used all of them over the years, ranging from all the major western AIBs as well as cheap aliexpress ones, and have found that ASUS, EVGA, and AsRock are the most reliable. ASUS was filled with bloatware however, and EVGA was definitely #1, while AsRock was a close second. You must be smoking shit if AsRock is a bad one to you, go look at MSI and Gigabyte.
I've just re-greased my Ryzen 7 5800X with Kryonaut extreme and I've never seen such a large drop in temperature just from changing the thermal compound. It was a pain to apply (doesn't adhere to the IHS very well so was tricky to spread thinly and evenly) but the performance is great, reduced my temps by about 7°C I did have high temps on the first boot, I even ended up with the BIOS going to default due to a failed boot attempt, it seems that this grease needs a few minutes of hot operating to 'bed-in'. By my third Cinebench run the temps were way down to new lower levels and have stayed there since I suspect that the grease may act as a non-Newtonian liquid so that when the block is pressed down it actually becomes less fluid under the pressure (which would also explain the issues I had spreading it) so if it is not perfectly even it can take a bit of time to create a good interface.. I'll be interested to see how it performs tomorrow morning when I boot from cold... 🤔
This morning: my system boot looped and reset the BIOS again on the first power-up - there are definite issues with this thermal grease, my CPU is overheating on the cols startup, the grease acts as a thermal BARRIER when it is cold 😒 I'm concerned that this grease has two major issues: 1. It seems to act as a non-Newtonian liquid so its performance can be significantly affected by the pressure of the block (something which I have no way to effectively measure) 2. It also seems to act as a thermal BARRIER when cold causing CPU temps to spike on cold startup a machine which cannot be good for a system that is powered down at night like mine At this point it seems that the issues outweigh the benefits and I'll likely be returning it to Amazon as not fit for purpose unfortunately
I did the curve optimizer on ryzen master with my 7700X on this same motherboard. I did the per core option and ended up hitting 5.45GHZ under Cinebench r23 full load, managed to stay under 90 with no cpu mods on a custom loop. It took a couple hours but I feel was well worth it. My voltages max out around 1.270.
Bro, you can just hold down delete while it boots. :D Delidding a 7950X can be done safely and easily without der8auer's tool. First use 9 gauge guitar wire to cut the glue. Then use pliers to pull gently on the heatsink as you heat it up. You need 160C to melt the indium, but you don't want to give the heat lots of time to soak into the die and PCB. Heat only the heatsink and do it rapidly. I used a hot air tool. The heatsink comes right off as soon as the indium is soft enough. This is WAY safer than the mechanical shear you get with der8auer's tool. Cleaning off the indium is the hardest part. It's soft already, so scraping it off is easiest. LM is only useful when you have already scraped most of it off, otherwise it's just a mess on top of the indium. For mounting I used my Noctua DH-15. It has plastic standoffs, so I shortened them by the height of the IHS: 3.8mm. That way I still tighten the screws all the way. Kind of a bummer the DH-15 only has 2 screws, but it works. Unfortunately Ryzen Master uses quite a bit of CPU just by being open.
I can definitely attest to the Thermal Grizzly thermal pastes. I had to take apart my drone to replace the camera module, and I decided to YOLO it, buy some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, and use it on my drone.
AMD made way too many compromises to make AM5 compatible with AM4 coolers. They should have used a larger, thinner IHS and made people purchase $10 mounting kits for compatibility.
jay changed his tune after 1 year of use, i also changed my opinion. i really like amd and one of the main reasons i buy amd stuff all the time is because i want them to win so bad but everytime im a little bit dissapointed and i end up going back with intel because it just works right and its the same with the video cards i tried 3 different amd gpus and ended up going back nvidia because it just works right. and i dont want to sound like a broken record but when it just works right it just feels right .
_Oh no_ Jay. I think you just rocked Roman's world in a bad way pointing out the mobo settings because that leaves room for doubt that Roman started on stock, adjusted TJMax and got better temps for sake of selling his products.
Great video as always Jay! What I am about to say I do not recommend. But My waterblock solution though questionable and dangerous to those who don't pay attention, it worked well for me. I had an old AM4 EKWB quantum velocity block, but the included standoffs wouldn't go low enough for a delidded 7950x. What I found through experimenting and desperation was that the threads on the cpu backplate on the Asus Crosshair Hero matched the threads of my long fan screws. I paired them with some springs from the exwb block kit, and some washers so the screws heads didnt walk on the cpu blocks bracket. Right now my cpu has no hold down mechanism, I am waiting for Thermal Grizzly to release the cpu mounting bracket. Which will hopefully be out soon. The temps and performance gains are nothing to be scoffed at. I got my 7950x at Microcenter for sale, 170 dollars off with an included kit of Flare X 6000Mhz ram included. So i splurged on the Mobo. Expo ram is awesome just a couple clicks in the bios and you are running 6000 Mhz Ram. My number one recommendation for 7000 series is watch microcenter for sales, they have been happening rather often as of late. and if you do jump on the amd train update that bios once you have your computer up and running. The bios that came with my board had a habit of dropping all usb devices every 40 or so minutes. With the most recent asus bios update I have had zero issues with anything.
Man this is so cool... these channels have sooo many extra computers components.. it would be like heaven to see... And to be like.. ohhhh... I just have a 12th gen top tier system.. just sitting in the corner... lol . Good stuff
I remember, it was 2001, I or we in the Technical Department of building and fixing pc's ,, used a flat screwdriver to spread the cooling paste on the cpu.
I have an EK AM5 block and it does NOT have its own backplate. It uses 4 posts that screw into the existing hold down mechanism from the rear of the motherboard. Be aware that wouldn't work natively with this mod since it won't have the necessary backplate.
Very, very impressive! Awesome vid! You're German is..well it makes laugh, in a good way though. My mother is also German but since I live directly at border with Germany I speak and write almost perfect German. Anyway, I can't wait for next budget build. Just one thing, why not mention the availability and prices western Europe. There's a huge difference between here and the US & Canada. Great job, keep going! Greetings from Netherland
Asrock have had over volting issues for years, enable XMP and expect the IMC to be overvolted, my 9900k was 1.37v out of the box, I manually dropped it to 1.25v and no instability whatsoever with massive power and heat savings. I am guessing they do less testing than the more expensive vendors and throw voltage at it for safety. But it is good they added those easy undervolts in the presets and lower temp targets also.
Thank's to the contract frame, this thermal paste and a nh-15, -0.1V offset I was able to get more than 40k out of a 13900K (Asus Limits) with Z690 DDR4 (3600). But I needed about 280W, 100 more than you used with 7950x
Seeing you brush a CPU with a toothbrush terrifies me. A while back I had an old GPU (I think a 780 Ti) that I had replaced collecting dust, then decided to try to sell it. I used compressed air to clean it up and then gamed on it for 6 hours to make sure it still worked. After I noticed it still had some grime all over it and I wanted it to look like new, so I got a brand new soft bristled toothbrush and gently cleaned the whole thing, had it looking like new. Afterwards, the card was artifacting hard and after about 5-10 minutes would just crash the system. I figure at some point some ESD damaged some things on the board. Even if alcohol prevents the ESD, the thought of cleaning with a brush still bothers me.
@@ChrisWijtmans I didn't use any alcohol, just gently brushed off the fine dust that air wouldn't remove. I think doing it with a coarse hair paint brush would've been better, since I think it was the synthetic plastic toothbrush fibers that caused ESD.
German here. Nice choice! Did my 7950X build with the CPU Guard to prevent shorts due to also using liquid metal thermal paste (Conductonaut). On top the Alphacool Eisbaer Aurora 420 Pro. 48-50°C idle, and no matter the use case, never above 78°C under load. In Cinebench 95°C... But a higher score than many got: 38244 pts multi-core.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
ah yes, "Iridium" on the CPU. XD
New drinking game. Take a shot every time I say the wrong element
As a car guy, I can see how easily you can mix up Indium with Iridium. Iridium is used on certain types of spark plugs.
@@blockbertus Iridium is also a satellite system. Like Starlink's grandfather.
Does Iridium on the CPU get you a Starlink satellite connection?
iridium is minecraft business, in this case IndustrialCraft 2 or Gregtech ^^
derBauer: "It's idiot proof."
Jay: "Sounds like a challenge!"
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
*red eye sound effect plays*
Surely you mean "Challenge accepted"
I mean, I see this as derBauer taking a joking jab at Jay. And Jay fell for it.
Jay.... Grabs belt sander.
The “decapitate” part of the manual is probably due to the fact that Roman calls deliding “köpfen” in German which literally means just that. Considering the amount of CPUs he’s already destroyed during deliding I think that’s actually a pretty accurate term for it 😂😂
Behead thy mate
"köpfen" is actually a pretty common term used by many germans in hardware forums - "Temperatur probleme, CPU geköpft oder nicht - thermal problems cpu delided or not".
It's just our way: one syllable less to pronounce 😜
Omelet, eggs.
lid and head are synonyms in this case.
It was neat to watch the delidding, but I was also hoping to see how you got it all back into the system. I was a little disappointed that it jumped from getting the top off to running the benchmarks.
Yeah! Same here. I was kinda curious what the process was. Not familiar with delidding.
Same, I wanted to see how replacing the retention bracket etc went.
Exactly! I was watching attentively to see Jay's solution to his retention bracket and they jumped from delidding to the benchmarks. :/
I'll give you one guess why he didn't show that part, and yes, I was deeply disappointed as well. It's literally the only reason I was watching this stupid video of a grown man risking the functionality of an extremely expensive CPU for literally no good reason whatsoever. Delidding CPUs is just trash nonsense.
He talks about it at around 26 mins, but sure, would have been nice to see.
Would have been interesting to see where the clockspeed ends up with the 85°C limit and the -40mV offset to see if it is worth doing that (probably not but I'm still curious).
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
I would not risk warranty over temperature difference
@@yoool7137 A few months in I would be comfortable using the lapping tool though. That would get the IHS down to a 5000 series thickness and tame the temps. 95 C does not feel right
@@Nobe_Oddy bruh you actually did this expecting it to be reversible?
@@bickyboo7789 He meant reinstalling the AIO cooler onto the delidded setup.
I delided a 4790K years ago, used the vice method,, this was before you could buy a delidding tool, now that was truly terrifying! thankfully all went well, I applied some liquid metal pro and temps dropped a good 15 degrees, probably the best CPU I ever owned as far as overclockability, these days I don't bother as it's not worth voiding the warranty and overclocking is pretty much automatic these days (kind of lost its cool factor) unless you're into LN2 extreme overclocking otherwise it's just not worth the hassle
I think with these new temperature norms, delidding is going to be worth it again. I mean, look at the fact that he's 20 degrees lower with lower wattage with equal/better performance. That's absolutely worth losing warranty over, IMO.
@@LiveType bro, hyper 212’s are 60$ nowadays
It’s stupid…
But a great replacement is the Thermaltake UX200 SE
Comes with an RGB fan and is just as quiet and cools just as well as a 212 while costing 1/2 as much
@@rustler08 This happened because AMD wanted to "keep" the AM4 mounting but in order to achieve that the IHS got thicker and that is not helping with the heat dissipation. The thicker the IHS the harder it is to dissipate heat. Just like MSI did on the RX 5700XT, they used un-GODLY thick thermal pads on one of their GPU models and the memory temps where through the roof.
I use a 4790k in a secondary PC. I set a 4.7ghz all core OC and Temps are fair. Seeing you speak about delidding yours makes me want to attempt it.
@@Mainstayjay My 4790k is in my main rig and I feel the same way...although I'm going to wait until I make the switch back to team red before I break my 4790k.
Jay, consider investing in some Kimwipes and acid brushes for cleaning PCBs. The brushes allow for getting into tighter spots and the Kimwipes are fiberless so you can use them to pick up the grime, flux, pastes, etc remnants that you loosed with the brush.
Acid brushes leave bristles everywhere, don’t do that. Kim wipes are good but of limited use here. Starting with a razor blade and removing the bull in one big piece is best
Don't do what either of these fellas recommend clearly you should invest in SHAM-WOW! that thing is INCREDIBLE
DONT LISTEN TO ALL 3 OF THESE SILLY BLOKES, LICKING THE BOARD CLEAN IS THE BEST OPTION.
Thanks for recommending kimwipes. I almost bought the blue shop towel because that's what everyone's using, but it's not locally common here in the Philippines.
@dj Kplus yes, you too can apply your tongue to your motherboard
Jay's german accent is more terrifying :)
xD
Lmao
The question is how much German Jay's knows?
not as terrifying as my Chinese 🤧🤣
@@weler1806 Probably not that much, looking at his performance here.
Kryonaut Extreme definitely has 1 to 3c better cooling but it also dries out quite a bit faster, as far as my experience shows. You want to re-apply yearly or you lose that extra thermal conductivity. If your going for overclocks or just peak performance it's one of the best you can buy. If your looking to build a system and use it long-term without changing components don't want to re-applying thermal paste regularly there are some better options for longevity over thermal conductivity.
Kryonaut is not great at high temperatures and the new gen is all about that. I don't know about the extreme version though but I believe it's an issue. I'm using MX-6.
I’m using graphite pads and my 7950X doesn’t hit 95 degrees until it’s well overclocked. Yes the IHS is awful and cooler compatibility wasn’t worth the compromise, but the hysteria is overblown. It’s not that big an issue. Certainly there’s no need to start lapping or delidding.
I used the NT-H1 on my CPUs and now 1 GPU the other Day. As far as i can tell it doesnt dry out for quiet some Time and it is one of the Best Thermal Pastes out there (for reasonable Price).
that's true. that's why most of mid to high range of pastes need few cycles of heat and cooling to really give their best. they last longer but they take more time to give their best. high end Grizzly is really made for OCers that don't wanna lose time with that. they give their best almost right out of the seringe. but you have to replace more often.
which is not an issue for a pc nerd. honestly i'd rather change it every year and have best cooling possible than using cheap paste. it's really not that hard to do. but i can understand people not liking to do it.
it's like running a car with old engine oil... many people push that to the limit and even way further. which is really not good at all.
@@flimermithrandirthis. super easy to handle. spreads easy. cleans easy.
They are ball bearings, but they are thrust bearings. So they are designed to allow movement on 2 parallel flat surfaces rather than just an axis inside a raceway. If that knife you are opening the box with is a higher quality one, it may have thrust bearing on the pivot to let the blade flick open without the resistance you would get if it was just a nylon washer.
22:06 Literally the thing that keeps me from doing any manual overclocking. These names are too arbitrary, some are there some seem to be missing, then it changes based on board manufacturer. I'm just too afraid I'll fry something because I misunderstood the name.
I'd be really interested in seeing what the stock performance vs all the mods would be. Like a value breakdown
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
@Defective Degenerate Besides speed, this helps maximize the efficiency of the cooler, keep components running at lower temps and lower voltage for better longevity, and lower noise of fans.
Not much difference actually I run a 7950x with bitspower block 360 Rad and idle temp is 36c on a strix 670e, the only Temps it actually helps is the 95c limit.
@@JoeMama-yl1ow I have a corsair 420mm AIO, and hit the 95⁰C limit, but my boosted cores hit between 5.8 and 5.95ghz.
@@nick_pappagiorgio longevity???? Practically no one who does these stupid modifications keep a pc longer than a few years.. because they damage more then they help. 🤦♂️
FYI, isopropyl alcohol technically leaves residue. If you want alcohol to leave absolutely NO residue, you need to use denatured alcohol (found at Home Depot).
Colgate also makes two extra soft brushes. They have one that has a large surface area of bristles, with the other one having a much more thinned out & rather point styled one. Both work really well for cleaning out sensitive spots on uncured resin prints, so I imagine that it would work rather well for this sort of application also.
The curve optimizer offset is just under the PBO settings. In my motherboard its under "amd overclocking". You dont have to change any of the voltages themselves.
Could be Asrock's bios is just kinda broken 😅... no motherboard OEM is infallible. Have had some wierd bios issues with my aorus elite x570 with settings not sticking (that was almost 3 years ago - built my current in Sept 2019) after that I only install bios revisions that don't have a letter in the version name.
@@earthtaurus5515 Probably bad settings, I have the same board and it will flake out easily if you push some things too much or change one thing at the wrong time. Curve Optimizer is usually hidden in the PBO menu. Set PBO to manual it shows up.
@@earthtaurus5515i learned that when you have an OC failure followed with hard reboot or auto reboot it messes up the saves. that's why i always do a clear CMOS when it fails. i always restart with a fresh clean bios. i just write my best results on paper. like this i can safely work on overclocking without having weird response from bios. once the best result found, i just create a profil with only 1 save. i don't leave multiple saves.
@@earthtaurus5515funny thing is, vendors are constantly taking out bios versions because of the same thing you just said.
Jay "I'm German. My mother is from munich"
Me, a German: "That's Bavaria. That's not Germany ;)"
Oh and for the 3 people, who understand that reference: Nochmal Bayern 👍
Everything south of the river Elbe is Bavaria. Northern Italy begins from the Kassel mountains. Gruß aus Lüneburg 😀
@@Lunatic3984 ey
Greetings from the Mountains around Kassel lol
Mate, thanks a lot for this video. My order for the new Ryzen CPUs was litterally waiting for a video that showed me if it was possible to delid this thing and gain some degrees. Good job :)
Maybe we can have a future where CPUs are sold without lids and instead all coolers come with built-in lids for a more direct heat transfer that doesn't require thermal paste?
Eagerly awaiting this delidding tool to hit retail, have been working slowly on a custom case and running the cpu daily since launch to check for flaws before I finally tear up my warranty 🤞
I use paint brush to wash cpus with alcohol, literally wash them, much softer than toothbrush, and to remove solder I use Flitz polish paste tube, it will just dissolve the tin solder and show you the mirror glass cover of the silicon wafer, perfectly clear not a scratch.
I have the same motherboard with a 7950x. I didn't change TJmax, but I did test and validate -30 on all cores. I was a little confused by your original clocks, considering I'm hitting around 5.3GHz on all cores _with_ _air_ _cooling._
I don't care if it hits 95C. It's a safe temp, according to the manufacturer. Actually, they say 105 is technically safe. If the CPU lasts until they've released a couple more generations of AM5 CPUs, it will have done its job. With air cooling, there's virtually no cool-down period after returning to idle, so I don't need to worry about heat-soaked coolant reducing performance later. I also don't have to worry about lost coolant, pump failures, or leaks. Heck, I even tested with the CPU fan removed (in a fractal torrent) and the performance barely changed.
I'm still tempted to de-lid, but I'd probably try some PTM 7950 rather than liquid metal. That should only be a difference of a couple of degrees. My cooler is already modified to fit AM5, modifying it further to fit a delidded CPU would be trivial.
Amazed at the air cooling... What brand air cooler are you using?
Yeah it's safe but prob not ideal for longevity. They just need to get it to survive long enough to check off some requirements on a list to call it safe.
The only reason to delid is if you're doing some very extreme overclocking with a custom loop and a huge voltage drop
I managed to delid my 5800x yesterday with a vice. It somehow survived. Blade method is good for getting the tim off. I messed around trying other methods but the blade got everything super flat and clean. I can't believe it still works to be honest.
The thing with the "decapitation" translation is, that in German we say "köpfen" if we delid a cpu. So it's not a dark translation, rather a dark word we use for deliding, because it literally means decapitating or even more literally beheading. Kopf --> Head. Köpfen --> Beheading :D
In Polish, they call it "scalping" a CPU. I don't like the term though, so I stick to the English "delidding."
I want to share a tip for cleaning sensitive things. Makeup brushes. The eyeliner ones, or slightly bigger, i use a lot of stuff from makeup section for a lot of sensitive accurate things, they feel premium compared to art store brushes, and are sometimes cheaper.
That being said, toothbrush is sensitive enough if you are careful. Smaller brushes are good if you feel the need for a little more sensitive tools to compensate for hands shaking when doing a scary operation like this. I know i'm taking the slow route.
Glad you didn't kill it, either. Be careful with that liquid metal. If it's hyper alloy, it can form up and attack you. I've seen it happen.
Did Arnie save you? 🤣 which t model was it. gotta know what weapon to use, just in case 😁
@Soyel Daumm! ,I btought the wrong gin. Got shum no2 tho. Shoot it, Nowa!
15:53 NOT for the faint of heart! Awesome though.. Been watching DeBauer work on this thing for a bit now, I'm glad you got the hook up from him!!
How did you get it cooled after you took the lid off? Why did you skip that part?
right?!?!?!
The most amazing thing I learned from this video was that there was a keyboard shortcut for task manager! It never occurred to me in nearly 3 decades that one even existed until I saw Jay do it at 3:09. Don't know how I never knew that one.
ctrl-shift-esc has been around since win7, so it's a relatively newer one.. earlier versions used ctrl-alt-del to pop taskmgr directly or pop a menu that could get taskmgr
@@niteriderevo9179 ctrl-shift-esc has been a shortcut for Task Manager since windows 95, actually.
hell i didn't know either.
@@AnalogPipeDream never knew that, only heard of it on win7+
@@niteriderevo9179 It’s been around for ages. It’s the first trick my dad showed me when I got my first PC back in 1999
Edit: But it’s not only a OS specific thing. Crtl+Alt+Del triggers a hardware interrupt on the CPU (at least on x86 systems)
DerBauer: Pretty much idiot-proof!
Jay: CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!
Me: There is no such thing as "idiot-proof", as idiots are supremely gifted and innovative at screwing things up. ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU TEMPT THEM!
Im hoping its possible to delid the X3D variants too! And AMD makes it possible to overclock
As a german, every time Jay speakes german it just puts a smile on my face lol
Same here. I'm Pennsylvania Dutch but I grew up speaking it mixed with English at home.
@@DigitalJedi Bruh... Dutch and Deutsch are not the Same...
Dutch = Netherlands
Deutsch = Germany....
Yea... Motherboard manufacturers often pump the voltage up to the moon. It worked on CPUs before the whole auto boosting thing, to score a tiny bit higer than the competition, but now they raise it so much that it actually hurts performance.
Using curve optimizer is usually a must because of that.
i didn't comprehend the implications of all the data but it was neat to see you take apart a cpu and not kill it (i think)
What I would love to see... a series of videos on various approaches to water-cooling. Like this: Build 3 or 4 identical systems simultaneously, each using different gauges of tubing and whatever variations we newbies have to choose between in each build so we can see exactly what is different in real time. Make sense?
He actually got the pronounciation of München correct.
Not bad.
Jay. Never change.
Your humour is absolutely the best.
For someone who is looking to build my first pc some time in the future, watching various videos, learning what I can and also wanting to buy the best products I can when the time comes… this seems way too much of a head f**k to be considered as a viable option.
This is for the extremes when it comes to OC/thermal performance; you do NOT need to do this for your first pc.
I wish both Intel and AMD would sell their cpu without IHS as an option, I wonder why they add an IHS at all since we would all get better performance without it
voltage offset on Ryzen 7000 series may appear stable in CineBench but crash in Blender, so its best to test both for stability when overclocking/undervolting.
I'd love to see you test the graphene sheets by FrostSheet and compare those to paste!
I prob watch 1 in 8 of your uploads... Now this is the content Ill always get around.
Back 10 plus years ago, I learned from forums to BSEL mod my dual Xeons to be "Extreme editions"(1800mhz FSB).
All it took was two 2mm bits of electrical tape on the CPU's.
Tricked the motherboard to think the CPU's where double the FSB.
This is extreme risk for reward.
: )
this cpu delided is a monster. The best performance/efficiency , way above 13900k.
totally
Jay taking German just made my day.
Because yes, "Flüssigmetallschutzdichtung" is a very bad word and definitely doesn't describe a peotective seal for liquid metal.
Sounds like that AIO would make a great video for you on how to refill it.
Just bought some Kyronaut and the CPU Guards (Pads) for my 7950! Always glad I watch Jayz videos before I build! Thanks!! 🍻
As someone who has a 7950x on the way and saw the various videos about the ihs / delidding I appreciate the videos. Definitely tempted but would have to figure out the mounting before I start ordering stuff.
And some additional money for the delid tool and liquid metal. And Iam not sure if/how often liquid metal has to be changed.
If you have some cpu heavy software running and earn a living with it, why not. For just gaming? Keep the hood on since you will most likely be throttled by the gpu anyway:)
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
@@Nobe_Oddy IKR!
There is now way in hell I try and delid a £700 processor, I would be scarred shirtless I'd destroy it
I'm so excited, I have a r9 7900x coming. Thought about going with the 7950 but for what I'm realistically going to do, the 7900x is already overkill. I figure since I'm not upgrading GPU this year I can still do the other major components and hopefully see an uplift.
Why wouldn't you wait for the x3d instead then
@@maegnificant I'll upgrade if/when that happens if the uplift is worth it. I never keep my stuff long enough to begin with.
in my case 7950x might be overkill but wanting to run a windows VM for gaming and doing coding at the same time I felt it's best to just go full force. Only negative is I'm not sure how much the GTX 1070 might hold me back but as long as GPUs don't skyrocket again in price I'm fine with waiting a bit longer.
@@U1TR4F0RCE I think honestly the price you can get some 30 series cards for they're a decent value at the moment. They're plenty capable especially with DLSS.
I bought a 7900x and it's awesome ngl, am gonna use this CPU for at least 6 plus years and in that time ryzen am5 will mature
Personally Id like to see long term tests(5+years).
DeBauer follow up videos with machines actually doing work for him would be excellent!... Same for you Jayz.
Long term testing is the keyword.
: )
You'll never see it, and it wouldn't be of any use anyway due to the variances in the wafers used to produce chips. What worked well on one chip may not work at all on another exact same type, but different wafer pressing. It's the nature of the beast as to how chip fabs work.
Using the same cpu modded long term tests would be nice to see. I have several 5-6 year old cpus still going with all sorts of cooling mods over the years. Usually it's the motherboard that gives up before the CPU.
Wear an ESD strap when handling these things. Use an ESD mat. You will guarantee that no transistors are fried or fail later because of ESD. There are no backup transistors in there. If you have zapped a junction, you will know in 90 days, a year or two later. Wondering why it died all of a sudden?!
If you put another cpu in the socket and it boots, well that was ESD that probably killed the cpu.
Been followring your content since 2020 when I got into pc stuff because of you. I learned a lot from you and will be continuing to watch and learn from your awesome content! PC building is very expensive here where I'm at, so even though without my own pc, watching your content makes my day. Cheers to you guys and I hope your content spread more. Happy thanksgiving to ya'll 😁
The cablemod ad showing out of stock is so accurate and amazing lol
I'm definitely going to pick up a tube of that Thermal Grizzly compound. I'm running a 5900X and a little more thermal headroom in the Summer months would be a good thing.
I'd recommend a static overclock. I got a slight increase in single thread performance and a very significant multicore boost on a 7700x
I only use the kpx paste now. I've used the thermal grizzly kryo as well as just about everything else. Like the Kingpin paste the most. And it's pretty decently priced, 30 gram for $45 ish.
I've been a Thermal Grizzly fan for a while. Got it on my 5900x with a water-cooled AiO and have never seen temps over 61c
Love your videos, also the "we interupt this video to bring you, no! we interupt this interuption to bring you this interuption" those are awesome!
I remember the first video I saw of yours. Reviewing the fx 8350. Look where you are now. Always enjoy your content. Keep it up and keep the vids coming! 🙏🏽
makes sense he is a amd fanboy lol,
it would have been nice if you SHOWED US HOW YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W ... T .... F ... .... J ... A .... Y ... ????!!??!?!?!!?!??!?!?!
Just watched your 4 year old video on the r5 2700x w/ wraith prism cooler running at ~4.2 semi-stable, knew you're probably not going to be looking at old video comments so I came to your latest video to thank you, I got an r7 3700x, at 4.2ghz and a vega 64 auto vram oc (adrenalin app) running star citizen @80avg on 1080p with the stock cooler.
So again, thanks a ton for that video man!!
Kids these days are so spoiled. Back in my day if we wanted to de-lid our CPU we used a bench vise with a 2X4 and hammer, and we LIKED it!! Nothing like that adrenaline rush of smacking your new CPU with a hammer to make you feel ALIVE!!
I dont think i would ever have the balls to delid a CPU
The way you are using the cooler might be causing cavitation on the pump. Try to use it "upside down" with the intake and output in the bottom
no,
pump is at the lowest point so no
Panch_88 - Absolutely NOT, your thinking is wrong/backward. Intake/output should ALWAYS be higher than the pump.
I agree. Gamer's Nexus has a pretty good vid on exactly this. Any air will get caught at the highest point; in this case, the top of the rad where the tubing is. Here, air might be getting sucked in to the pump.
For the advanced testing we need to find the perfect blend of PC professional and idiot.....
Roman: "I know a guy"
The problem is that ASRock bios sucks :D
Jayz I would highly recommended you to change the motherboard in your final build.
I'm afraid you will have some strange behaviours in your system.
will updates not sort it over time?
Would be nice if he would test the asrock and give a kind of long time review.
Sorry, have you seen Gigabyte and MSI bioses? ASUS is the only manufacturer (maybe EVGA) that has better bioses than AsRock, and ASUS crams their motherboards full of bloatware like asus armoury and fills up system32, even copying file structures in program local. AsRock is one of the best vendors lol.
@@Appri Are you high as your name suggests? Maybe there's another AsRock in the world we don't know about
@@simoSLJ89 AsRock has the best reputation as a mainboard maker- are you high? I've used all of them over the years, ranging from all the major western AIBs as well as cheap aliexpress ones, and have found that ASUS, EVGA, and AsRock are the most reliable. ASUS was filled with bloatware however, and EVGA was definitely #1, while AsRock was a close second. You must be smoking shit if AsRock is a bad one to you, go look at MSI and Gigabyte.
I knew exactly which part you were going to play when you queued up the Der8auer video. Hahaha! Good one JTC!
any release sell date for this 7000 deliding tool?
So all this could've been avoided if AMD just did the sensible thing and chose a new cooler mount spec
I've just re-greased my Ryzen 7 5800X with Kryonaut extreme and I've never seen such a large drop in temperature just from changing the thermal compound. It was a pain to apply (doesn't adhere to the IHS very well so was tricky to spread thinly and evenly) but the performance is great, reduced my temps by about 7°C
I did have high temps on the first boot, I even ended up with the BIOS going to default due to a failed boot attempt, it seems that this grease needs a few minutes of hot operating to 'bed-in'. By my third Cinebench run the temps were way down to new lower levels and have stayed there since
I suspect that the grease may act as a non-Newtonian liquid so that when the block is pressed down it actually becomes less fluid under the pressure (which would also explain the issues I had spreading it) so if it is not perfectly even it can take a bit of time to create a good interface..
I'll be interested to see how it performs tomorrow morning when I boot from cold... 🤔
This morning: my system boot looped and reset the BIOS again on the first power-up - there are definite issues with this thermal grease, my CPU is overheating on the cols startup, the grease acts as a thermal BARRIER when it is cold 😒
I'm concerned that this grease has two major issues:
1. It seems to act as a non-Newtonian liquid so its performance can be significantly affected by the pressure of the block (something which I have no way to effectively measure)
2. It also seems to act as a thermal BARRIER when cold causing CPU temps to spike on cold startup a machine which cannot be good for a system that is powered down at night like mine
At this point it seems that the issues outweigh the benefits and I'll likely be returning it to Amazon as not fit for purpose unfortunately
I did the curve optimizer on ryzen master with my 7700X on this same motherboard. I did the per core option and ended up hitting 5.45GHZ under Cinebench r23 full load, managed to stay under 90 with no cpu mods on a custom loop. It took a couple hours but I feel was well worth it. My voltages max out around 1.270.
Wife’s toothbrush?
Bro, you can just hold down delete while it boots. :D
Delidding a 7950X can be done safely and easily without der8auer's tool. First use 9 gauge guitar wire to cut the glue. Then use pliers to pull gently on the heatsink as you heat it up. You need 160C to melt the indium, but you don't want to give the heat lots of time to soak into the die and PCB. Heat only the heatsink and do it rapidly. I used a hot air tool. The heatsink comes right off as soon as the indium is soft enough. This is WAY safer than the mechanical shear you get with der8auer's tool.
Cleaning off the indium is the hardest part. It's soft already, so scraping it off is easiest. LM is only useful when you have already scraped most of it off, otherwise it's just a mess on top of the indium.
For mounting I used my Noctua DH-15. It has plastic standoffs, so I shortened them by the height of the IHS: 3.8mm. That way I still tighten the screws all the way. Kind of a bummer the DH-15 only has 2 screws, but it works.
Unfortunately Ryzen Master uses quite a bit of CPU just by being open.
I can definitely attest to the Thermal Grizzly thermal pastes. I had to take apart my drone to replace the camera module, and I decided to YOLO it, buy some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, and use it on my drone.
Jay: I'm german
*starts quoting a Hitler speech*
Ok, that escelated quickly
Breaking News: Jay's new favourite phrase "check this out" dethrones "I digress" more at 11.
The radiator on the test-bench is upside down.
Always got the coolest stuff to play with.
Lapper, delidder, liquid metal... nice.
I'm just waiting for De8auer to put the deliders up for sale. I want to do this to my new build.
AMD made way too many compromises to make AM5 compatible with AM4 coolers. They should have used a larger, thinner IHS and made people purchase $10 mounting kits for compatibility.
Jay should just go ahead and ask him if he can call him TheBuilder. 🤣
jay changed his tune after 1 year of use, i also changed my opinion. i really like amd and one of the main reasons i buy amd stuff all the time is because i want them to win so bad but everytime im a little bit dissapointed and i end up going back with intel because it just works right and its the same with the video cards i tried 3 different amd gpus and ended up going back nvidia because it just works right. and i dont want to sound like a broken record but when it just works right it just feels right .
_Oh no_ Jay. I think you just rocked Roman's world in a bad way pointing out the mobo settings because that leaves room for doubt that Roman started on stock, adjusted TJMax and got better temps for sake of selling his products.
Great video as always Jay!
What I am about to say I do not recommend. But My waterblock solution though questionable and dangerous to those who don't pay attention, it worked well for me. I had an old AM4 EKWB quantum velocity block, but the included standoffs wouldn't go low enough for a delidded 7950x. What I found through experimenting and desperation was that the threads on the cpu backplate on the Asus Crosshair Hero matched the threads of my long fan screws. I paired them with some springs from the exwb block kit, and some washers so the screws heads didnt walk on the cpu blocks bracket. Right now my cpu has no hold down mechanism, I am waiting for Thermal Grizzly to release the cpu mounting bracket. Which will hopefully be out soon. The temps and performance gains are nothing to be scoffed at.
I got my 7950x at Microcenter for sale, 170 dollars off with an included kit of Flare X 6000Mhz ram included. So i splurged on the Mobo. Expo ram is awesome just a couple clicks in the bios and you are running 6000 Mhz Ram. My number one recommendation for 7000 series is watch microcenter for sales, they have been happening rather often as of late. and if you do jump on the amd train update that bios once you have your computer up and running. The bios that came with my board had a habit of dropping all usb devices every 40 or so minutes. With the most recent asus bios update I have had zero issues with anything.
Man this is so cool... these channels have sooo many extra computers components.. it would be like heaven to see...
And to be like.. ohhhh... I just have a 12th gen top tier system.. just sitting in the corner... lol .
Good stuff
5450 all core, 75ºc full load, 170watts... it´s insane for a 16 core cpu ( Full cores).
This was a fun watch, the delidding process is too risky for my liking and size of pocket though; but that's why I watch channels like yours.
Really enjoy your contents jay!
You make it easy to understand even if English is not my native language.
Cheers from Italy 🤟
I remember, it was 2001, I or we in the Technical Department of building and fixing pc's ,, used a flat screwdriver to spread the cooling paste on the cpu.
I saw the same thing Jay.
The reason is because the CPU voltage is mostly controlled by vid.
Set vid in lockstep with your voltage
I have an EK AM5 block and it does NOT have its own backplate. It uses 4 posts that screw into the existing hold down mechanism from the rear of the motherboard. Be aware that wouldn't work natively with this mod since it won't have the necessary backplate.
It's not just a dark translation. Roman even calls it literally like that on his german videos: "köpfen"/"geköpft" -> "decapitate"/"decapitated".
Very, very impressive! Awesome vid! You're German is..well it makes laugh, in a good way though. My mother is also German but since I live directly at border with Germany I speak and write almost perfect German. Anyway, I can't wait for next budget build. Just one thing, why not mention the availability and prices western Europe. There's a huge difference between here and the US & Canada.
Great job, keep going!
Greetings from Netherland
Jay: This feels so wrong.
Engineers at AMD: BECAUSE IT IS!!!
6:15 fast recovery Jay!
Under quality of video I just seen 2160p and was like wth is this expecting Jay to go full anime smooth detail 😳
Asrock have had over volting issues for years, enable XMP and expect the IMC to be overvolted, my 9900k was 1.37v out of the box, I manually dropped it to 1.25v and no instability whatsoever with massive power and heat savings.
I am guessing they do less testing than the more expensive vendors and throw voltage at it for safety. But it is good they added those easy undervolts in the presets and lower temp targets also.
Love you buddy @ 5:09
Thank's to the contract frame, this thermal paste and a nh-15, -0.1V offset I was able to get more than 40k out of a 13900K (Asus Limits) with Z690 DDR4 (3600). But I needed about 280W, 100 more than you used with 7950x
Seeing you brush a CPU with a toothbrush terrifies me. A while back I had an old GPU (I think a 780 Ti) that I had replaced collecting dust, then decided to try to sell it. I used compressed air to clean it up and then gamed on it for 6 hours to make sure it still worked. After I noticed it still had some grime all over it and I wanted it to look like new, so I got a brand new soft bristled toothbrush and gently cleaned the whole thing, had it looking like new. Afterwards, the card was artifacting hard and after about 5-10 minutes would just crash the system. I figure at some point some ESD damaged some things on the board. Even if alcohol prevents the ESD, the thought of cleaning with a brush still bothers me.
You used the wrong alcohol
@@ChrisWijtmans I didn't use any alcohol, just gently brushed off the fine dust that air wouldn't remove. I think doing it with a coarse hair paint brush would've been better, since I think it was the synthetic plastic toothbrush fibers that caused ESD.
I spanked that like button so hard when you spoke german with the original WW-II face impression. Genius!
Why do people delid when the chips are soldered? I'd trust solder over a liquid metal application any day.
It’s the heatsink. The idea is to remove the heatsink out of the equation and cool directly onto the chip instead of diffused
3:28 When someone tells you "this is the new normal"
Jay and the rest of the world: We're about to kill your entire theory.
11:55 what I like to do is use the CRC contact cleaner for situations like that. That stuff eats thermal paste like water eats cotton candy
I've delided many CPU's.
It's so much easier and faster if you blast it with hot air (hair dryer) to soften the glue first.
German here. Nice choice! Did my 7950X build with the CPU Guard to prevent shorts due to also using liquid metal thermal paste (Conductonaut). On top the Alphacool Eisbaer Aurora 420 Pro.
48-50°C idle, and no matter the use case, never above 78°C under load. In Cinebench 95°C... But a higher score than many got: 38244 pts multi-core.