Good video! Looks like a nice setup. Without the ABS, if you still have a spongy pedal, it’s most likely air that’s left in the system. You can also try dead-heading the master cylinder (cap the two ports) and the pedal should be rock solid. That’ll rule out that the master cylinder is bad. There is a double piston in the master cylinder, they both engage simultaneously when you press the brake pedal (not one after the other). The adjustable valve doesn’t make your pedal more solid - it can help you dial in your rear brake pressure. You want your front wheels to lock up before your rear brakes so that your back doesn’t break out.
I think any of us with the GMT-400 would agree the brakes are bad. The quick take up master cylinder and front brakes calipers that are supposed to retract for mileage are part of the problem. Using the newer master cylinder helps. I would like to hear more about your impression of removing the ABS. If you want to put on different calipers the slightly larger 2500 calipers don't have the retracting pistons. I used them when I changed my master cylinder. I also tried the larger wheel cylinders in the back to adjust the bias without removing the ABS it makes a big difference and could be another cheap knob to turn with your wilwood valve. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Think you might have the lines backwards. If I remember right the back port of the master cylinder should run the front brakes and the front port should run the back brakes. Might try swapping them and seeing if that helps your pedal any.
A lot of bad information here. The master cylinder applies pressure simultaneously to the front and back. The purpose of the proportioning valve is for safety. It isolates the front and back via a shuttle valve. If you were to lose front or back you would still retain some braking. The purpose of the adjustable valve is to prevent the rear wheels from locking up before the front wheels. Rear wheel lock is very dangerous in that it will cause the vehicle to spin. Start slow 25mph or less apply hard brake and make your adjustment. If you want to firm the pedal install a 10psi residual pressure valve to the rear drum brakes.
I have a 96 blazer ls swap and a 2000 disc brake swap I'm wanting to delete the abs module what all would i need for it to work properly pedal is stiff until it has vaccum assist then its spongy any help or direction would be appreciated
i see you recomend 2 different type for different usage and tires. i have stock tire size. and towing 2 times a year with about 2600 pounds of firewood. is the simple one good enough?
@@Overland_garageandadventure nice. what did you do whit all the connectors that was plugged in the abs module? just hide them? some of wire that have to do something with? becouse i know that if i connect a abs module that is not programmed to my vin. my car won`T start. i think that is the purple wire?
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Good video! Looks like a nice setup. Without the ABS, if you still have a spongy pedal, it’s most likely air that’s left in the system. You can also try dead-heading the master cylinder (cap the two ports) and the pedal should be rock solid. That’ll rule out that the master cylinder is bad.
There is a double piston in the master cylinder, they both engage simultaneously when you press the brake pedal (not one after the other).
The adjustable valve doesn’t make your pedal more solid - it can help you dial in your rear brake pressure. You want your front wheels to lock up before your rear brakes so that your back doesn’t break out.
I think any of us with the GMT-400 would agree the brakes are bad. The quick take up master cylinder and front brakes calipers that are supposed to retract for mileage are part of the problem. Using the newer master cylinder helps. I would like to hear more about your impression of removing the ABS. If you want to put on different calipers the slightly larger 2500 calipers don't have the retracting pistons. I used them when I changed my master cylinder. I also tried the larger wheel cylinders in the back to adjust the bias without removing the ABS it makes a big difference and could be another cheap knob to turn with your wilwood valve. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thanks for that tip bro I wasn’t aware of this one
Think you might have the lines backwards. If I remember right the back port of the master cylinder should run the front brakes and the front port should run the back brakes. Might try swapping them and seeing if that helps your pedal any.
I was thinking the same
You are correct!!
Yep. I had problems with the abs activating when ever it wanted to so I just disconnected the left abs wire and it works fine so far no issues
first thing I noticed 🤣
I have my lines backwards 🙄
I was looking to get real solution to the bad ABS system in my 1999 Yukon. Thanks 🎉
A lot of bad information here. The master cylinder applies pressure simultaneously to the front and back. The purpose of the proportioning valve is for safety. It isolates the front and back via a shuttle valve. If you were to lose front or back you would still retain some braking. The purpose of the adjustable valve is to prevent the rear wheels from locking up before the front wheels. Rear wheel lock is very dangerous in that it will cause the vehicle to spin. Start slow 25mph or less apply hard brake and make your adjustment. If you want to firm the pedal install a 10psi residual pressure valve to the rear drum brakes.
I have a 96 blazer ls swap and a 2000 disc brake swap I'm wanting to delete the abs module what all would i need for it to work properly pedal is stiff until it has vaccum assist then its spongy any help or direction would be appreciated
Which wire did you plug the brake warning light to? The black or the purple? ...i tried to see in the video but i couldn't tell.
Did you ever do a new video ? Tell us how the wilwood is doing??
Any computer or wiring gotta mess with? Other than the brakeligt switch? Were did you tie that into?
Any updates on this? Would love to do the Wildwood swap if it helped
Yes it did help I will be posting the video soon. I would defined recommend the Willwood valve over the standard one.
Never did an update
Do you have to program the abs out
No I didn’t do anything else
i see you recomend 2 different type for different usage and tires. i have stock tire size. and towing 2 times a year with about 2600 pounds of firewood. is the simple one good enough?
Yeah the simple one will do good
@@Overland_garageandadventure nice. what did you do whit all the connectors that was plugged in the abs module? just hide them? some of wire that have to do something with? becouse i know that if i connect a abs module that is not programmed to my vin. my car won`T start. i think that is the purple wire?
got a 99.. wanna do the same. But i heard the security is tied into the abs? any help ?
Unplug your ABS and try to start it, if it starts you are good to delete the ABS
Also you can just unplug the abs motor worked on three of my vans 👍
Puro pinche pedo. No mames carbon, como quedo oh, que. No te entiendo nada nopal....im just fkin w ya man 😂😂
Or you could just pull the fuse.
Where is the fuse?
@adrianflores5485 the two places that it might be is the box under the hood or in the trunk.
Lol sorry was thinking of my car. No trunk in a truck lol. Check on side of dash.
Hey get rid of your soft lines
Yo mama