K1500 Soft Brake Pedal Solved!! ABS Delete NBS Master Cylinder
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- After a lot of research, trials and error, I was able to solve the issue with the soft brakes in a K1500 series pick up truck with the Kelsey Hayes ABS module. 
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I did this my 97 c1500. I changed the brake booster as well, never had to mess with the ABS. After all that the brakes were much better, less squishy. Just make sure to gravity bleed it prior to bleeding the brakes.
Thanks for taking the time, and the detailed info with part numbers, I have a 98 Silverado with the same issue, I will be converting it.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the good info …. brakes on my 90 model suck and so do ABS systems
so aside from swapping in the proportion valve you just unplug and remove everything for the ABS? the ABS light is not on in the truck now? also the rear most plug (facing the firewall) on the original abs unit is the brake light switch for the proportioning valve and Im pretty sure you can wire that to the white switch on top of your new proportioning valve if you have the correct pigtail. Im in the same boat as you with the spongy brake pedal with my 97 and Ive replaced literally everything but the abs unit. Thanks!!
Thats exactly what i did and there was no ABS light on. Doesn’t mean the bulb wasn’t already burnt out though….
I have a 95 C1500 with this Kelsey Hayes ABS. My problem is the opposite. The front driver side brake is locking up or dragging. It gets so hot it caught fire once. I just removed that wheel sensor and now it’s not locking up. But I don’t have ABS on that side and the light comes on immediately when I drive it. I’m looking for a fix because the ABS module part is obsolete. I could probably do this. But I think if I disconnect the Kelsey Hayes the ABS light will come on. Maybe I can have both. Just leave the old one in but disconnected except for the sensors. So with this new setup you have do you still have a working ABS?
Try just pulling the fuse first.
Awesome video! Just a question, did the security light not give you any issues? I have a 1998 tahoe and I have heard that if you do an abs delete it will cause a passlock issue because the connector is connected at the abs pump? Any thoughts?
It did not come on. Ive heard the same thing but it didn’t effect me.
@@RebelGarage508 Thank you for the info!
Thanks for the help just finished installing everything bleeding tommorow hopefully I like how it turns out🤞🏽
Good Luck! Feels good when it actually stops.
Update ?
Good job bro I'm having problems with mine hey just from the master cylinder to the proportional valve those two lines there did you make those or where did you get them at can you help me out there brother cuz I can't get mine to work right
I made them
@@RebelGarage508 dam wish u was closer i could us some good help im in a wheel chair can i pay ya to make me a few bud
@@joeclark9042 unfortunately i dont have the truck anymore to copy what i did.
@@RebelGarage508 ok thanks bud
Can you do a video on the combo valve and where the lines go to , my combo valve went out and I can’t find anything
The owner picked it up already. I wish i could post pictures in the comments
Did you have to cut/flare any lines to fit into the combination valve?
Yes i made up those lines
Hey, could you find out if this made the cruise control stop working? Been thinking of doing the same, but do a ton of long highway driving. Was hoping cruise would still work after. Thanks!
Im not sure. My guess would be no but its just a guess.
Will this work on 1995 c1500 suburban, i dont have fluid leaking but replaced the master cylinder to 2006 model, its still soft after bleeding
I believe it will. Most of the time its the ABS thats air bound causing the soft pedal. You need to use the auto bleed on a scan tool or bypass the module.
Explain you pedal feel?
I have sprinter with a pedal that was soft and then got worse with pedal going to the floor.
Then I put in a new master and it felt the same. Then the seller said it was the wrong master, so I ordered another.
So I don’t know what is going on right now
Soft as in all the way to the floor and the truck would push through. You probably still have air. Try pressure bleeding. Make sure rear brakes are adjusted. Replace hoses. You can clamp the front and rear hoses to rule out caliper wheel cylinder issues
@@RebelGarage508 there's no fluid leaking. They also told me they sold me the wrong master cylinder. It looks identical but no one can tell the difference between the models, I’m so surprised. I doubt when I get the other one that this will fix this. I think it is something with the ABS. As I said, I don't see any fluid leaking anywhere. I'm not replacing lines or anything. I had better brakes when the original master was on
@@RebelGarage508 you don't adjust rear or front brakes on a sprinter. They are calipers
Oh this video was specific to a K1500. The ABS modules trap air and are a notorious issue. Thats why i deleted it.
@@RebelGarage508 yes, I understand it's specific. I don’t understand what is going with my brakes yet. One person told an even where shops replaced 2 master cylinders, a booster, and a caliper. And it still didn't fix the problem. I can't even get one person to tell me the difference in the master cylinders thar are physically identical on the outside yet are for different models. You tell me
I've got a 97 Silverado c1500 that abs module is not allowing fluid to the rear and has almost no stopping... and i just ordered the parts from your video, will it work ?
I would think so.
Did you have to make new line fittings to install the proportioning valve?
Yes i had to make new lines. It would probably be easier using braided steel flex lines. Ill have to look into that.
I’ve been having lots of trouble with my 2000 1500 Silverado. Hoping for some answers. I deleted the abs. I ran the rear brake line to the back, and each time I bleed I get really good pressure. Then I put a T section for the front brakes and I get very small pressure when I bleed. So problem is the front brakes with not much pressure and the rear brakes only stoping the truck. Please help
Do you have the right port off the master cylinder going to the correct port on the proportional valve?
So as far as electronics go, you just unplugged it and sat the pigtail aside is what I’m gathering??
Thats correct. I tapped up the ends.
Could the unit cause the brakes to drag? I've replaces calipers, lines, pads and all my lines bleed great. Only thing I can think of that's left is the abs unit
You replace the MC?
@RebelGarage508 yes Mc and booster
The MC pushrod the correct length?
@RebelGarage508 I'm glad you said that because I was just looking into that. I just wasn't sure if my boosters rod was adjustable. Ordered the tool to measure yesterday so I'll tackle it this weekend
Did you change the brake lines?
Yes, basically everything was new.
Is there any other parts I have to buy other than what you listed?
Thsts all i used. Good Luck!
My pedal will just randomly go to floor and it slowly builds up more pressure in the pedal until it starts dragging so hope this fixes it kinda out of ideas has new calibers and new master cylinder so🤷♂️ idk
I bet the module is air bound.
Yes please do a video on how to do this
Unfortunately, the customer already has his truck back. It is pretty straightforward though. The PV2 combination valve is used for many disc to drum braking systems. You can just Google the combination valve with the diagram to identify what port is for what system. The rear port on the master cylinder goes to the front brakes and the front port goes to the rear brakes. You will need to fabricate your own lines which requires a flaring tool, but besides that it’s pretty straightforward good luck.
@RebelGarage508 should edit this into your video. I watched and got my parts. Seen the line fittings would not transfer over to the replacement and that I would need to address that with the correct fittings.
Only problem with installing the NBS master cylinder is if the truck loses either front or rear brakes, you have no brakes at all. You lose the divider that the OBS master cylinder reservoir has.
The NBS is also internally split.
do you have to make custom brake lines?
I did yes
Just did mine, except I found a remanufactured one instead as I let the shop install it.
Does the abs light on the dash stay on after this or ?
No it turned off
If you don't mind me asking what year is that K 1500
1998
Has anyone done. On the newer body style. 99-06 Silverado.
I have not but would assume its pretty straightforward
I pulled the brake fuse on my 2000, disabled its failing and dangerous ABS with no further issues.
@@markreep7841 definitely works if the module isnt air bound.
Can I do this with my 06 Silverado? I stripped the threads on the abs module. I saw a proportionate valve on eBay for the same year of my truck.
I would think so. Im not 100% sure though.
@@RebelGarage508 I’m just doubting a bit about it. It says it’s oem to a Silverado. But I google the same part for mines and it doest come up. I wonder if it’s an error on their part
Good job dude I like it nice video Hey there's one more thing I think you can do I heard you say you replaced all the hoses but there's 1 in particular on the rear axle to the body the flexible hose rather than the reinforced rubber get a braided steel hose in addition to what you did. 😊
Thanks for the tip