Things I used in this video: 1. Actron Scan Tool: amzn.to/2ngeCQJ 2. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 3. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jxKone 4. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 5. Common Sense 6. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX 7. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9 8. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 9. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 10. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Haha. This comment! I had a dealer call me a c*nt and all sorts of other names because I stood over the engine and pointed out all the faults with it after he told me it was fine. All thanks to Mr Kilmer 😂
@@stephaniesheridan5474 I've done over $1,000 dollars of repairs/additions to my car by myself.. Only time I'll go to a mechanic is when theres a tool that's too expensive to use.. And even then I'll go to my first job site (I used to take off bumpers and just disassemble/help out the mechanics when I wasn't sweeping and cleaning) and they'll usually let me use the equipment free of charge.. It's good to have friends in high places..
Scotty you've got the best quality auto-repair content I've seen on TH-cam. Most mechanics would charge you even for a simple explanation of something. You're great buddy keep up the good work!!
I have no clue how I am not subscribed to you already. That’s my bad. Your videos always lift my spirit when I gotta do something I’ve never done before. Thanks for being here.
I love this guy he really knows his stuff man every time he hits a dead on on every car. There aren’t too many mechanics like him anymore ! Follow him I like his video he really does deserve it . Thumbs up man great job
13 Years as a technician and master tech for Acura, i never once saw a VTEC solenoid fail, not by me or by one of the other 24 techs that i work with,, in 13 years! .. 10 times out of 10, if it throws a VTEC code it's because the car is very Low On Oil .. Very low.. Which causes interruption of oil pressure to the solenoid and a VTEC code Will set.. , when that happens the car defaults to a "Limp home" mode which makes the computer limit engine rpm to 3000 rpm.(unless you cycle the key, then it will drive normally, unless it occurs again)) Scotty just unplugged it to set the code for this video no doubt
allen luangrath I had to change our the vetch module just like Scotty did and my Element ran like a champ afterwards. Also and oil change, engine flush and general tune up 🤔
It is very expensive, to replace,so another alternative is, take it off, clean it, replace the gaskets, reinstall and most times the problem is solved, as the comment by the mechanic above stated.
Wow, I actually had to do this exact repair on my 02 CR-V (same engine) last winter. It would chug when it got above 3k RPM. I got a P1259 code. Replaced that VTEC solenoid and it's been fine ever since.
That’s an Element in the video, but it’s still the same K series engine, which your Accord has. I would definitely check your VTEC solenoid gasket; they are prone to leaking.
Thanks Scotty, this video really helped out. Oil change did the trick for the engine sputtering but i may still have to change the vvt solenoid to get the check engine light to stay off
scotty, this exact precise video is just why you are so great. I know you have been getting unrightfully bashed for your honesty about over engineered cars. You seemed to be a little more forgiving in this video till you got to the beauty cover. Keep up the work.
Oh yes, the VTEC solenoid assembly. Had to replace that on my 05 CR-V. From my experience usually the only time that those things go bad is either due to lack of oil changes or just simply due to age if the car has a lot of miles on it as well. Very easy to do and not horribly expensive unlike some other things on these older Hondas.
Vtec has been kicking oil all over my engine bay for past two years. I didn't tighten down my vtec solenoid enough after doing my first headgasket ever on my daily driver. Finally troubleshot that P2646 a actuator arm system blah blah blah yesterday and tracked it down to that. It's fixed. No more CEL, no more oily engine bay and constantly checking/filling the oil. Replaced the o2 sensor yesterday as well, that got ruined from driving around with blown headgasket two years ago. Damn those things are expensive. No more cylinder misfires either!
I had the same problem in my old rsx and it was the screen that was dirty in the solenoid. Replaced the screen cleaned it up nicely and she ran great no cel or bog. $12 fix!
Cheers thank you for eliminating many hassles of getting the actuator and still had the same problem. 2009 Acura TSX code shown P1009 series. ManYourAmechanic.!!! Toots
I have an '01 that does just what he is saying about poor performance - keep in mind.... when the car is cold the solenoid works fine --- you really have to have HOT oil and have to run the car for about 45 minutes at highway speeds - then slow up a bit - and then... really romp on the gas pedal to make it kick down a gear, when it tries to upshift - that is when the 3,000rpm jumps happen (Engine shutting down)... It sort of reminds you of a rev limiter kicking in... Easy fix - like he said - just hard to see. Thanks Scotty - you've helped me in the past with some things... :)
Hi Scotty, 2012 CRV here with 88k miles. I have the vtec rattle on start. Thought I saw in one of your vids that the noise isn’t an issue? Car runs great otherwise
Well Scotty......I watch a lot of your vids.....but this vid in particular was very helpful as I have an 03 Honda Element with 188k on it with a leaky VTEC solenoid......it started w the check engine and now wont go over 3k......I remved and tested the switch and it was good......now gunna do the full Monty and replace the whole part like u did.......thanks for the info........Subscribed
This is a great starting point. On the "element" you WILL be removing the left motor mount to remove the power steering pump and tensioner pully to clean the little screen behind the cover. the hardest part is the belt reinstall its just time consuming about an hour. The solenoid in the back of the engine is tough. remove the power steering hose and metal support bracket. I tied mine over to the driver side with a bungee strap. after you remove the 2 electrical connections there are 2 plastic wire anchors on the metal heat shield they are difficult to remove. The rest is fairly simple
You did it the hard way. You do not have to remove anything other than the oil filter for access to the VVY assembly. I replaced the filter/O-ring on my Element and my Accord (same K24 engine) by moving the power steering pump hose bracket out of the way and holding it in place with a bungee cord. After undoing the front connections from above, I removed the oil filter (you should change the oil and filter anyway) for better access from below with the car on front ramps. It is also much easier to use the torque wrench from below.
Scotty I got a d16v1 i think it’s the best! I got power and cheaper parts everything’s good! I would love it if you made some more videos on maintenances on these engines And any tips like this would b great ! Big respect scotty
Thanks. I have this issue with my wife's Mitsubishi Fuzion in the Philippines. I was told it was the fuel pump, the transmission, and a few other things before I realized that this was the problem.
Hi Scotty, I just bought a used 2014 CRV with 120k miles which makes a rattling noise on startup. Honda dealership says it's a bad vtc actuator and stretched timing chain. They quoted me $2700 for the repair.The car runs with no problems and no engine codes. What do you think I should do?
Hi Scotty, Thanks for the massive time you spend teaching car repair! I have a question. I saw an app that had the ability to show, in a curve/chart format, VVT function. I have been using Torque pro an it is pretty nice. But I don't see the ability to plot the actual timing as the car is driven. I drive a Mazda 2001 It support OBD2. Do you know the app I refer to?
If it was leaking it was due to the gasket seal which only cost 24 bucks. Im a Honda mechanic in Orlando Honda and the Vtec Solenoid system don't go bad, it only has seals which you can see in the video.
I had to do one of those once. I don't remember the exact engine but it was on my Niece's Accord. One of those three bolts was in a position we couldn't get to. We ended up having to modify the socket into a wrench like doohickey. All of my wrenches were too thick, a socket could get on but there was no room for a ratchet. We cut the socket down shorter and welded it to a wrench we cut.
That 'filter screen' you refer to possibly getting clogged up--what are you referring to there? Is that the one you have to remove the power steering pump to get to?
Is it possible that the oil pump could be weak causing low oil pressure only asking because we've done this repair and visually checked the wiring harness for damage cleaned connectors changed oil and we changed the screen under the belt tensioner also do you think you could do a video on how to check a wire with a multimeter for a short to ground and a short to power and what to do about it if you find one
I have a 2005 Honda Civic Ex. Throwing that code. We changed the oil, added an engine cleaner and replaced the gasket. Still threw the code. So we replaced the solenoid. Still throwing the code. The whole engine jumps when it gets to about 3500 rpm. Any suggestions on next steps?
Mr. Kilmer I just replaced the same part I bought of of eBay for $35. With the old one it was leaking oil, and would only be a problem with a cold engine. Worked fine once warm. P2646 was the code that came on when accelerating with cold engine. So with the cheap new part even with engine warm it now triggers the same code, but besides fixing the leak it is worse then before. Should I take the seal from new part and swap over to the old part?
welp that would explain why im losing so much oil. nothing in the exhaust or coolant and im losing a quart a week. Glad i watched this. didn't know i could reach it from the top
I think we've seen this Element show up at Scotty's garage before. Honda's K24 engine has an excellent reputation for reliability. With him mentioning dirty oil as the possible culprit, it seems like maybe the owner isn't the best about checking/changing the oil on schedule. It's that kind of crap that makes me concerned about buying a car used. Why is it so hard for some people to do basic maintenance?
Hey, I thought you said to always disconnect the battery when connecting / disconnecting any parts, so Not to screw up the computer or electrical system.... Thanks for ALL these great vids Scotty!
I bought a 2020 Accord with 56 miles on it. The VTC Valve was diagnosed at the dealer as being the culprit for problems. Symptoms included: Jerking or Bucking while driving on the hiway, Engine stalled five times while sitting in a fast food line in drive. How could that part be bad on a brand new car?
When I heard you say it wouldn't go over 3000 rpm my ears perked a bit. I've got a 91 Pontiac Sunbird that hesitates at 3000 rpm, then when you give her a good amount more gas she bucks up to 5k in an instant. Hoping you have some insight as to what that might be.
Hey Scotty, desperately need your advise. Just spent like $600 bucks with my mechanic to put in a new fuel pump. He tested the fuel pump pressure prior and he wasn't getting much pressure. Also he showed me the old one it looked like crap(very dirty). But I still have the car cranking, especially after I leave the A/C on for a while(15 or more minutes). Any ideas what the heck this is? The thermometer? Condenser? I think its a poor starter issue. Oh by the way, just had the battery replaced prior to the fuel pump. It's a 2005 Mazda Rx-8. Thanks man, love your channel.
My 2003 honda accord has a leak from that solenoid but no issues with 3000 RPM and above. Can I just replace the gasket? or I'd better replace the whole part? Thank you for sharing.
That's exactly what happened to my 17 year old Lexus. Luckily I was only 2 blocks from home and limped back. CEL on so had the code. Easy repair. Screen was clean and oil+filter changed every 4K. Just bad luck. Otherwise the car has been very reliable all these years.
Scotty my Chevy Malibu 2014 Ls shows the exact code, so I went out and bought the VVT, is that the same as OCV, because they look different from each other, Auto Zone recommended OCV. Which is which and were would the Oil Control Valve be located on the Malibu?
Scotty. I have this exact issue in my 05 Honda Element. I replaced my solinoid because the old one leaked even after i changed my gasket. That's when it happened the first time. P2646. So i replaced it again and sure enough it happened again the next day. I'm at a loss. I don't see how you checked the front filter you said was good in the video. And i can't imagine i had two bad units. And i did get an oil change after the part was replaced. Any other thoughts??
I have a question about the Ford Fusion. What is your opinion on the first and second version of this car is it a good car? is it expensive to do maintenance to that car?
Scotty. I have a similar problem. It causes intermittent hesitation. Im suspecting its the same valve you mentioned. I have no check engine light or codes for it. But i noticed it is more frequent in hot weather. Do problems like this get enhanced with environmental temps?
Things I used in this video:
1. Actron Scan Tool: amzn.to/2ngeCQJ
2. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
3. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jxKone
4. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO
5. Common Sense
6. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX
7. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9
8. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
9. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
10. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
❗️Check out the Scotty store:
goo.gl/RwhRGU
👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics:
goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty where can I find number 5 I can't find that on amazon
Where do you recommend I buy this specific part from??
Wow...this channel has taught me a ton about my car...when i go to the mechanic they are shocked by what i kno...i cannot say thank u enough
Leela Crissy me too !! Plus my dad taught me some knowledge I be telling him what’s wrong before he check it out😂😂💕
Why you still going to the mechanic
Haha. This comment! I had a dealer call me a c*nt and all sorts of other names because I stood over the engine and pointed out all the faults with it after he told me it was fine. All thanks to Mr Kilmer 😂
@@stephaniesheridan5474 I've done over $1,000 dollars of repairs/additions to my car by myself.. Only time I'll go to a mechanic is when theres a tool that's too expensive to use.. And even then I'll go to my first job site (I used to take off bumpers and just disassemble/help out the mechanics when I wasn't sweeping and cleaning) and they'll usually let me use the equipment free of charge.. It's good to have friends in high places..
Never tell them you know what it's they hate that just do it yourself avoid the rip off 👍
Scotty you've got the best quality auto-repair content I've seen on TH-cam. Most mechanics would charge you even for a simple explanation of something. You're great buddy keep up the good work!!
This guy's shtick is hilarious. The transitions, and way he speaks, all accompanied by the education makes it worth every minute.
I just changed the Variable Valve Solenoid by myself! And now its going well over 3000 RPM. Thank you so much for this very detailed video!!!
Did you have a knock?
How did you know yours was bad?
I have no clue how I am not subscribed to you already. That’s my bad. Your videos always lift my spirit when I gotta do something I’ve never done before. Thanks for being here.
Scotty your the Best, a mechanic just tried to charge me $442 for this simple repair job for my daughters truck.... Thank you for what you do!! 🙌
this guy is so enthusiastic.. i love it
Thanks again scotty, fixed more issues for me and my buddies than any shop
You should rename the title "when your vtec doesn't kick in, yo!!!!"
Haha, I get it!!
Absolutely
💀
"Well, it certainly goes over 3k RPM now!" *chirps second* lol
Nice video! From my personal experience with several Honda's I just replaced the gasket on the VTEC solenoid. Costs a few bucks and works perfectly.
I love this guy he really knows his stuff man every time he hits a dead on on every car. There aren’t too many mechanics like him anymore !
Follow him I like his video he really does deserve it . Thumbs up man great job
13 Years as a technician and master tech for Acura, i never once saw a VTEC solenoid fail, not by me or by one of the other 24 techs that i work with,, in 13 years! .. 10 times out of 10, if it throws a VTEC code it's because the car is very Low On Oil .. Very low.. Which causes interruption of oil pressure to the solenoid and a VTEC code Will set.. , when that happens the car defaults to a "Limp home" mode which makes the computer limit engine rpm to 3000 rpm.(unless you cycle the key, then it will drive normally, unless it occurs again)) Scotty just unplugged it to set the code for this video no doubt
you are mistaken because I've seen numerous Honda Elements with that same problem including mine
allen luangrath I had to change our the vetch module just like Scotty did and my Element ran like a champ afterwards. Also and oil change, engine flush and general tune up 🤔
@@_Diggler No doubt in my mind that it will run it's a honda they go forever
It is very expensive, to replace,so another alternative is, take it off, clean it, replace the gaskets, reinstall and most times the problem is solved, as the comment by the mechanic above stated.
Vtec doesn't kick in without the stupid beauty cover
Same goes for Toyota
Wow, I actually had to do this exact repair on my 02 CR-V (same engine) last winter. It would chug when it got above 3k RPM. I got a P1259 code. Replaced that VTEC solenoid and it's been fine ever since.
Is that a 2002 Honda engine in this video ? I have a 08 Accord 4cyl and I'm trying to figure out what is leaking on passenger side, 275k miles
That’s an Element in the video, but it’s still the same K series engine, which your Accord has. I would definitely check your VTEC solenoid gasket; they are prone to leaking.
Thanks Scotty, this video really helped out. Oil change did the trick for the engine sputtering but i may still have to change the vvt solenoid to get the check engine light to stay off
scotty, this exact precise video is just why you are so great. I know you have been getting unrightfully bashed for your honesty about over engineered cars. You seemed to be a little more forgiving in this video till you got to the beauty cover. Keep up the work.
I have had like 3 car problems that I learned about and fixed myself on this channel. I mean... wow.
Oh yes, the VTEC solenoid assembly. Had to replace that on my 05 CR-V. From my experience usually the only time that those things go bad is either due to lack of oil changes or just simply due to age if the car has a lot of miles on it as well. Very easy to do and not horribly expensive unlike some other things on these older Hondas.
Vtec has been kicking oil all over my engine bay for past two years. I didn't tighten down my vtec solenoid enough after doing my first headgasket ever on my daily driver. Finally troubleshot that P2646 a actuator arm system blah blah blah yesterday and tracked it down to that. It's fixed. No more CEL, no more oily engine bay and constantly checking/filling the oil. Replaced the o2 sensor yesterday as well, that got ruined from driving around with blown headgasket two years ago. Damn those things are expensive. No more cylinder misfires either!
lol Scotty chirpin the tires, well it goes over 3000 now lol
o OK thx , yea I didn't think about cleaning the intake manifold after I took the old one off, just use a brush or something to clean it
wire brush is a bit much, usually a rag and some brake clean has worked well for me
O OK thx
U own a Honda?, I see a vtech motor in as your picture
Hey also, my Camaro doesn't start unless I jump it off, auto zone told me the battery was good, could it be the altenator
This saved me so much time and money. Thank you!!!
I had the same problem in my old rsx and it was the screen that was dirty in the solenoid. Replaced the screen cleaned it up nicely and she ran great no cel or bog. $12 fix!
Ah....my Element just came up with this one......thanks for the video showing the solution!
I bet that old corvette in your outro has the original chev LT 1 for the engine.I can hear the lumpy cam that it came with.
+MrBeeradb1 yes
"Stupid beauty cover" hahahahahah love it. That should be on a T-Shirt with your name on it Scotty Kilmer.
1:36 Wind effect shot!
I had the same problem with my rsx and changed the solenoid and still runs funny and got the code again
Cheers thank you for eliminating many hassles of getting the actuator and still had the same problem. 2009 Acura TSX code shown P1009 series. ManYourAmechanic.!!! Toots
I have an '01 that does just what he is saying about poor performance - keep in mind.... when the car is cold the solenoid works fine --- you really have to have HOT oil and have to run the car for about 45 minutes at highway speeds - then slow up a bit - and then... really romp on the gas pedal to make it kick down a gear, when it tries to upshift - that is when the 3,000rpm jumps happen (Engine shutting down)... It sort of reminds you of a rev limiter kicking in... Easy fix - like he said - just hard to see. Thanks Scotty - you've helped me in the past with some things... :)
I've really learned alot from you. Thank you so much.
i love this channel you make everything more simple I love it!!!!
Hi Scotty, 2012 CRV here with 88k miles. I have the vtec rattle on start. Thought I saw in one of your vids that the noise isn’t an issue? Car runs great otherwise
Well Scotty......I watch a lot of your vids.....but this vid in particular was very helpful as I have an 03 Honda Element with 188k on it with a leaky VTEC solenoid......it started w the check engine and now wont go over 3k......I remved and tested the switch and it was good......now gunna do the full Monty and replace the whole part like u did.......thanks for the info........Subscribed
Dude you are so good at what you do! You been blessed!
Your the best Scotty, thank you 😊
400.000 subs! good job scotty
Andrew Watson
Now he has like 2.4 million in 3 years. Wow 3 years ago from mow
These videos are entertaining to watch in your spare time. Keep up the awesome work!
Straight to the point love the videos
Been your number one fan from day one. I have a Nissan. 2012 that blows a lot of black smoke do you have any general ideas?
This is a great starting point. On the "element" you WILL be removing the left motor mount to remove the power steering pump and tensioner pully to clean the little screen behind the cover. the hardest part is the belt reinstall its just time consuming about an hour. The solenoid in the back of the engine is tough. remove the power steering hose and metal support bracket. I tied mine over to the driver side with a bungee strap. after you remove the 2 electrical connections there are 2 plastic wire anchors on the metal heat shield they are difficult to remove. The rest is fairly simple
You did it the hard way. You do not have to remove anything other than the oil filter for access to the VVY assembly.
I replaced the filter/O-ring on my Element and my Accord (same K24 engine) by moving the power steering pump hose bracket out of the way and holding it in place with a bungee cord. After undoing the front connections from above, I removed the oil filter (you should change the oil and filter anyway) for better access from below with the car on front ramps. It is also much easier to use the torque wrench from below.
Thank you Scotty you help me out tremendously and keep up the good job
Scotty you amaze me with your knowledge . Thanks for sharing it.
Good man. I wish i lived near Houston.
6th video in 2 days going to do this on mine...ur 👌
Scotty Kilmer you are a hoot.
I AM GLAD I FOUD THIS VIDEO! SO MUCH FUN TO WATCH. THANKS SCOTTY!
Scotty I got a d16v1 i think it’s the best! I got power and cheaper parts everything’s good! I would love it if you made some more videos on maintenances on these engines And any tips like this would b great ! Big respect scotty
good vid scotty scotty, i had a similar problem on a alfa 156 1.8 twin spark [ vvti],changed the valve, oil and oil filter,problem solved.
Thanks. I have this issue with my wife's Mitsubishi Fuzion in the Philippines. I was told it was the fuel pump, the transmission, and a few other things before I realized that this was the problem.
Hi Scotty, I just bought a used 2014 CRV with 120k miles which makes a rattling noise on startup. Honda dealership says it's a bad vtc actuator and stretched timing chain. They quoted me $2700 for the repair.The car runs with no problems and no engine codes. What do you think I should do?
Hi Scotty, Thanks for the massive time you spend teaching car repair! I have a question. I saw an app that had the ability to show, in a curve/chart format, VVT function. I have been using Torque pro an it is pretty nice. But I don't see the ability to plot the actual timing as the car is driven. I drive a Mazda 2001 It support OBD2. Do you know the app I refer to?
Just perfectly done, mr. Kilmer!
If it was leaking it was due to the gasket seal which only cost 24 bucks. Im a Honda mechanic in Orlando Honda and the Vtec Solenoid system don't go bad, it only has seals which you can see in the video.
Craz! Ness r u still in Orlando? Get at me
And if replacing the whole assembly doesn't work then what do you do?
OrBust add 20 50 oil
RandomGolf So we've already put in 10 30 when it calls for 5 20 and still throws the code but only on hot days. We are baffled.
Can you just buy the seals or does Honda make you buy the whole thing
Scotty you are the man
I'm your biggest fan Scotty I always love your videos and teaches me alot... 👍🤘 Your awesome Scotty
Thanks for the support!
I had to do one of those once. I don't remember the exact engine but it was on my Niece's Accord. One of those three bolts was in a position we couldn't get to. We ended up having to modify the socket into a wrench like doohickey. All of my wrenches were too thick, a socket could get on but there was no room for a ratchet. We cut the socket down shorter and welded it to a wrench we cut.
That 'filter screen' you refer to possibly getting clogged up--what are you referring to there? Is that the one you have to remove the power steering pump to get to?
You could also try cleaning it and replacing all the gaskets on the Solenoid.
hey scotty u know those beauty covers on fords are made of recycled denim and they actually absorb engine noise
Hey scotty would that problem also affect the knock sensor on a honda accord (specifically 2004 accord 2.4)
Thanks, you just saved me $150 bucks
You rock. Thanks for the quality videos. Not many others even compare.
remind me not to buy things like that ,,,,,the simpler the better i say ,,,,your the man scott
Hey Scotty i always bet my money on you, didn' t loose till now.
Is it possible that the oil pump could be weak causing low oil pressure only asking because we've done this repair and visually checked the wiring harness for damage cleaned connectors changed oil and we changed the screen under the belt tensioner also do you think you could do a video on how to check a wire with a multimeter for a short to ground and a short to power and what to do about it if you find one
tx you so much for this tutorial!!
Honda element baby, she's a beauty!!!!
I have a 2005 Honda Civic Ex. Throwing that code. We changed the oil, added an engine cleaner and replaced the gasket. Still threw the code. So we replaced the solenoid. Still throwing the code. The whole engine jumps when it gets to about 3500 rpm. Any suggestions on next steps?
Mr. Kilmer I just replaced the same part I bought of of eBay for $35. With the old one it was leaking oil, and would only be a problem with a cold engine. Worked fine once warm. P2646 was the code that came on when accelerating with cold engine. So with the cheap new part even with engine warm it now triggers the same code, but besides fixing the leak it is worse then before. Should I take the seal from new part and swap over to the old part?
Gotta love that windswept look @ 1:36
Scotty, you ROCK!
EASY DIY video. Thank you
Thanks!
And that's my man Scotty!
You once again are the Best on TH-cam! Would you recommend switching out just the switch on the unit?
welp that would explain why im losing so much oil. nothing in the exhaust or coolant and im losing a quart a week. Glad i watched this. didn't know i could reach it from the top
I think we've seen this Element show up at Scotty's garage before. Honda's K24 engine has an excellent reputation for reliability. With him mentioning dirty oil as the possible culprit, it seems like maybe the owner isn't the best about checking/changing the oil on schedule. It's that kind of crap that makes me concerned about buying a car used. Why is it so hard for some people to do basic maintenance?
Hey, I thought you said to always disconnect the battery when connecting / disconnecting any parts, so Not to screw up the computer or electrical system....
Thanks for ALL these great vids Scotty!
+235chuck don't need to for this part. It has no power when engine is shut off
+Scotty Kilmer OK. Less steps = QUICKER Fix! Thank You Mister Kilmer!
I bought a 2020 Accord with 56 miles on it. The VTC Valve was diagnosed at the dealer as being the culprit for problems. Symptoms included: Jerking or Bucking while driving on the hiway, Engine stalled five times while sitting in a fast food line in drive. How could that part be bad on a brand new car?
very good job dude, didn't know I had one 😁😁
Nice sir 👍
When I heard you say it wouldn't go over 3000 rpm my ears perked a bit. I've got a 91 Pontiac Sunbird that hesitates at 3000 rpm, then when you give her a good amount more gas she bucks up to 5k in an instant. Hoping you have some insight as to what that might be.
Gotta love the ole honda, 5 minute video and 5 bolts to change a major engine component. Not to mention chirping those tires
Best Video on P2646 Code repair for Honda VVT ....
Awesome little video. Thanks!
Hey Scotty, desperately need your advise. Just spent like $600 bucks with my mechanic to put in a new fuel pump. He tested the fuel pump pressure prior and he wasn't getting much pressure. Also he showed me the old one it looked like crap(very dirty). But I still have the car cranking, especially after I leave the A/C on for a while(15 or more minutes). Any ideas what the heck this is? The thermometer? Condenser? I think its a poor starter issue. Oh by the way, just had the battery replaced prior to the fuel pump. It's a 2005 Mazda Rx-8. Thanks man, love your channel.
Great video....wat where the symptoms or codes u got for this issue
Hey SCOTTY KILMER am looking to buy me a 2007 Honda Accord in a few weeks do u think it's a good buy are those cars good vehicles?
My 2003 honda accord has a leak from that solenoid but no issues with 3000 RPM and above. Can I just replace the gasket? or I'd better replace the whole part?
Thank you for sharing.
Vtec pressure switch is that included?
Or do i have to buy it separate
That's exactly what happened to my 17 year old Lexus. Luckily I was only 2 blocks from home and limped back. CEL on so had the code. Easy repair. Screen was clean and oil+filter changed every 4K. Just bad luck. Otherwise the car has been very reliable all these years.
Scotty my Chevy Malibu 2014 Ls shows the exact code, so I went out and bought the VVT, is that the same as OCV, because they look different from each other, Auto Zone recommended OCV. Which is which and were would the Oil Control Valve be located on the Malibu?
Scotty. I have this exact issue in my 05 Honda Element. I replaced my solinoid because the old one leaked even after i changed my gasket. That's when it happened the first time. P2646. So i replaced it again and sure enough it happened again the next day. I'm at a loss. I don't see how you checked the front filter you said was good in the video. And i can't imagine i had two bad units. And i did get an oil change after the part was replaced. Any other thoughts??
Hey I love that corvette that you have at the end!
nice video Scotty
I have a question about the Ford Fusion. What is your opinion on the first and second version of this car is it a good car? is it expensive to do maintenance to that car?
have you ever ran into a problem where the pins that lock the vtec rockers to the valves get stuck engaged?
Scotty. I have a similar problem. It causes intermittent hesitation. Im suspecting its the same valve you mentioned. I have no check engine light or codes for it. But i noticed it is more frequent in hot weather. Do problems like this get enhanced with environmental temps?
Following.. Needing to know, also.
@@chancedulaney774 it was the throttle body and oil control valve. Replaced them and it solved my issue.
on an 05' Accord, is it possible to replace the VVT Actuator (properly) without removing the timing chain?