2006 Honda element Vtec Solenoid replacement and location fixes bucking issue
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- 2006 Honda element Vtec Solenoid replacement
Here is the link for the part. I do NOT get paid or receive any compensation for this video or for the link to the part .
www.ebay.com/i...
![ง้อ (ALRIGHT) - FOURTH [ TEASER ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ya6MBfo-Wvg/mqdefault.jpg)
Four years later and this really helped me out. Thank you for the video. I appreciate it. This is my first TH-cam comment. Honestly, very informative. Thank you!
Update: Just went outside to pull the VTEC Solenoid off and clean/inspect it and noticed the part was brand new(I just bought this vehicle). I pulled off one of the connectors(The one you pointed at in this video) and when I looked inside, the connector has a lot of white corrosion like you would see on a car battery terminal that needed to be cleaned. I took a paper clip and some wire and worked it around in there to clean it off, then coated it with some electrical grease I had in my shop. Plugged it back up and everything seems to be working fine now.
Awesome I’m so happy it helped. I wanted to help out with this video
I had the same bucking problem and the same codes on my 2005 CRV (same engine). I replaced this spool assembly - just as in the video - but it did not solve the problem. After much angst I found that the problem was in the oil pressure sensor that is just below this spool assembly. It has a single wire going to it and a rubber boot over it. I pulled gently on the wire from above and found it was loose; it moved 1/8 inch back and forth on the attachment post. I believe that if this electrical contact is lost, the ECM thinks there is no oil pressure and shuts down the VVT system and may even send the car into limp mode suddenly. I replaced the sensor (not easy -difficult access) with an aftermarket one ($20) and added an o-ring that is needed. Be sure to pick away the old o-ring that may be left around the hole. I also added Teflon tape around the threads. The new sensor has a longer post, and the wire attaches much better than the OEM, so someone has figured this was an issue. Car ran great after this, no further 2646 or 2647 issues. So, feel this sensor wire before you start replacing other parts!
Here are two extra Element quirks that I found on my 2006 model:
If the engine and/or tail pipe start vibrating intermittently at idle, check to see if it only happens when the A/C is on. If so, the motor mounts - particularly the one in front on the passenger side - need replacing.
Lower the tailgate and lift the hinged plastic cover over the tailgate hinges. Look for rust. This is structural and should not be ignored. My local body shop cut and welded new ones in from an old Honda he used for parts.
Other than that, my Element has been a super-reliable, Swiss Army Knife of utility vehicles. I will NEVER, EVER, NEVER sell my Element!
100% correct it is a tank
I thought mine did that because I had no catalytic converter. It started with no noise but over time especially recently I’ve noticed a noise upon acceleration similar to what I’ve had before
My 2007 Honda Accord has a very similar issue... Has a vibration that started in the last couple of thousand miles that only is really noticeable when the AC is on and the car is in gear.
If I switch off the AC, or if I put the car neutral, the tremors get cut way down.
I figured it was a motor mount, but it's nice to hear your description of the elements motor mountain issue.. I think it's quite similar construction with the accord.
Used your video along with another for the job on my 04 CRV. I went aftermarket also, as the OEM is at least twice the price. One tip that worked for me was to remove the 3 bolts holding the solenoid first to allow wiggle room to disconnect the electrical connections. Don't wrench on my own cars much and have very basic tools (and skills), but was able to complete the job in under 3 hours with a couple interruptions. So far, so good. Thanks for the info.
Great to know. THANK YOU.
That just helps my confidence to tackle it also
I like when you say use that 10mm socket which will take your whole Honda apart ,LOL great video , Thanks!
walter schilling it’s the truth lol
man u never lied lmao 🤣
I'm dead
5:44 loll
Excellent video. You are pro-active like I am. Anytime that I have something apart during repairs, I automatically go into the "while I'm at it" mode because I sure don't want to have to re-do something I could have prevented. I'm lazy that way...some people call it being efficient. I have the same car in blue with a 5-speed manual transmission and love it!
I love my element still running strong
Saw many videos on this process and your explanation was straight to the point and very helpful. Got the job done quickly. Thank you!
Thank you
Oil changes with a quality filter help to prevent the screens in the vtec solenoid from being plugged. Oil filter bypass will kick in when cheap filters are saturated.
The screen and gasket is replaceable so if the main problem is a leak or a plugged screen a new gasket can get proper operation restored.
Thank you so much for your very informative and professional video !!! You saved our old element that has four hundred thousand miles on it !!!
Wow that’s awesome mine has 130,000
I appreciate the video, it saved me a bunch of time on my 2006 Honda Element. Note: If you are in a bind and can't get the replacement Solenoid. You can remove the part as seen in this great video, then remove the SCREEN from the Gasket. Yes, remove the screen from the gasket and reinstall the gasket back on the Solenoid. Re-install the old solenid without the screen. And you are back on the road with VTEC power. You can ride like this for an undetermined amount of time until your new part arrives. Or if you're like me and this is just a second car for rainy days. You may hold off on that New Solenoid and save the $$ Disconnect the battery cables for a couple of minutes to clear the check engine light.
Schuyler Alexander awesome I’m so happy to help you. Mine is still working strong
Thank you so much! Our Element is a 2005 with 230k and I'm trying to do what I can to keep it going. Thank you for your work as a nurse, please stay safe.
Thank you so much, yeah it should last you a very long time with basic maintenance
@@itiswhatitis7473 , thank you, that's our hope. We live in Upstate NY and our first Element 's frame rusted out at 160k. Be well!
@@UCfan oh no
Nice looking Element. Better start using fender covers when u wk on her2 protect the paint &set an example 4these Lilliputians out here. Disconnecting the battery is unnecessary here. Simply keeping the key out of the ignition will suffice. I recommend the use of2 bungie cords 2hold back that PS hose &that wiring harness 4your comfort. Then u can take your time &wipe up the area &rub a little green Scotch Brite about the sealing surface just 2b sure.
1orr more fasteners getting oil soaked does NOT mean that there was a leak. Removal of the VTEC solenoid assembly always produces a bit of oil spillage as it is a pressurized, internally lubricated devise that controls oil pressure 2the rocker arm advances levers.
Over torqueing here is very common so I recommend use of a 1/4" torque wrench set in in/lbs 2maximize accuracy &avoid pinching or cutting that new seal. U will find HONDABOND, superior &longer lived than most gasket makers or sealants. It is likely the best in the world which is why it's so loved by Master Techs like me.
Excellent video - this was exactly the issue with my Element, my vtec connector had water in it. I thought I was in for an expensive repair but actually just needed some liquid tape!
Very happy it has helped you
This is very helpful and awesome! I have a 2007 manual Element that started crapping out last week during a nasty rain storm. I was turning left and shifted into 2nd then when I tried to gas it, the RPM would rev really high then after wouldn't pass 3000-4000 RPM, and it wouldn't accelerate. No check engine light. I had to slowly drive 30-40 mph on 3rd and 4th home. On neutral, my Element doesn't go passed 4000 RPM. I'm going to give this a try and will give an update to let others know if this fixes the issue when there's no check engine and the Element is manual.
Nhu-Thuy Pham let me know
@@itiswhatitis7473 ack! Nope. Same issue. 😞 When there are no check engine light, no codes, it is difficult to diagnose. I'm going to clean the variable valve sensor thing and change out the front solenoid filter thing (rectangular gasket, need remove the tensioner to get to it 🙄). I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor, air mass sensor, vtec solenoid (a bitch to put back), spark plugs, and changed oil to Mobil One 10w30 with Mobil One filter. I just got the Element two months ago... Was told new clutch and everything was tuned up then this happened. Ugh.
@@nhu-thuypham6153 Element may have a damaged pcm ecu or is never "getting ready"
@@nhu-thuypham6153 did you end up fixing the issue?
Bro !! Check your gear solenoids !! 3rd clutch pressure switch) mounted on the outside of transmission!! These a couple of them but that should get you on the right path of tracking it down and some online homework should help!!
🤣 I’m glad I came across this video. Because the explanation of the issue was on point when it happened to me. You just saved me a trip to the auto shop.
I’m happy it worked for you I made the video to help as many as I could with this issue.
What I've learned is that the "screen" on the V-tech valve gets "dirty" ( clogged) if you don't CHANGE YOUR OIL often enough (?) - when you buy a car USED you don't know HOW OFTEN "they" ( the previous owners) changed their oil ?? The oil pressure going thru the screen has to reach " 19 PSI " before the valve actives allowing the car to start using the Higher-Speed Cam allowing the car to go over about 35-40 MPH ! With 131,000 miles the SCREEN could be DIRTY enough to NOT ALLOW the passage of oil thru the screen ? While you changed out the WHOLE VALVE part with a NEW CLEAN SCREEN maybe you could have just replaced the SCREEN PART - " DOORMAN 917 - 176 " ( cost $5 ) and that might have fixed it too ? You did show us HOW TO FIX THE WATER leaking on the connecter and that was VERY HELPFUL TOO !!! :-)
Thank you. We have 3 each with over 223,000 miles. Still running strong.
2004 over 200000 and replacing mine with part from local Honda dealership for $219.58 😁
Thank you for excellent video🌟
I’m happy I could help
Advanced auto parts has the same part for 88.00
@@billyrichardson5562 Are you saying Advanced Auto Parts really has Honda OEM parts?
Thanks Man, great video. My 2006 just started doing this during a heavy rainstorm. I got the new part but im definitely going to re-seal thet connector. It had water drops inside when I unplugged it.
Roblox Robots yeah that’s awesome I knew this would help people. That’s great. Seal that connector ASAP
Thank you for the great info. Not to pick a nit, but there is only one describe which side is which on a car, regardless of where you're standing looking at it. The driver's side is always left, passenger is always right. That's because the sides are oriented from the driver seat looking out the windshield. It avoids confusion when ordering parts or describing issues to a mechanic. It's like the human body. Your left side is always left. It doesn't become your right when someone else looks at you. It's always your left. Can you imagine a doctor cutting off the wrong limb n the saying "oops, he meant his right, not my right."?
ok cool thank you
I love Element.One of most realiable car I have.
Me too but might sell it, I am not 100% sure yet
Thank you for the video, I’ve ordered the part and will be installing tomorrow. 2006 Honda Element.
Awesome good luck and let me know how it goes
My vtec blew around 170k I recommend buying and OEM as I bought an after market from oreilly and it broke within a couple months, was under warranty and got another, same thing. Light came on again so I was done and bought the oem
This video has saved my life. Thank you so much for the info! My connector was just like yours and I did the same gasket maker fix.
Paul Raybourne awesome I am happy I was able to help you. This video was something I just knew was needed to be out there in the world. That gasket maker fix was something I just thought of that day it’s cool that you used that technique.
Going to attempt this today. Thank you for the great video.
I wish you sucess
Nice video man I got an 05 Accord same exact engine same everything under the hood like that and I'm going to replace I already to replace the actuator now I'm replacing the solenoid and the whole assembly with the oil pressure switch like you did because I am not getting enough oil pressure and the whole part looks pretty corroded anyways so nice video man in your write 10 mm for sure does mostly everything on the Hondas
yeah!....nurse.... clean hands....St Florence (Nightingale) would be proud of you...thx for the video.... I've a 2004 Element.... Joel.....RN
Love it I still have it and it’s going strong
@@itiswhatitis7473 I'm in the processing of getting mine going in that direction too....but still in the learning phase of the project. Thx for the video....
@@joelwelsh6014 yea I’ll be selling soon for a truck
I have misfires and a rough idle, I’m going to give this a shot!
Check ur plugs
Did it work?
A Good Guide. Worked for my 2006 accord as well. Thanks!
I hope it works definitely described my situation I have it in hand very informative video thank u 😊
I hope so too
Thank you for making this vid bro.
@@user-so4mo9sg8b yes sir no problem
Very helpful and friendly video, thank you for sharing this!
Thank you
Awesome tip on the dielectric grease.
Good idea about RADIO CODES - not everybody knows theirs !! :-)
Had this problem code saying it was bad but with a little sludge remover and seafoam this problem went away and Had my come back and I got 198 thousand miles on my 2006 civic ex coupr
ONLY BUY A GENUINE HONDA REPLACEMENT PART!!! I've been through three Orileys parts. JUNK JUNK!
@@driverman9528 I have seen them for about $121 on Amazon. The dealer wanted around $180. And actually if you're not getting the error code I would consider just changing the gasket.
@@driverman9528 Sorry, I thought we were talking about the spool valve assembly.
Super vid and great comments too. Thank you very much!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Saved me a trip to the shop, many thanks sir.
Xavie Sovis I’m happy to help
You Are The Man.
Fantastic video !!!!!!
Five stars.
Bill Sorochman thank you I am happy to help
It is not the solenoid most of the time,a low quality oil filter will cause it.We had this with a 2007 CRV,solenoid and wiring were both good.Dealership found the problem,it was the low quality oil filter installed.An oil change using an OEM Honda oil filter fixed this one
Excelente..!!! Thanks !!
Wow! My element is at 291k miles and this start happening, the old part still looks new since but I replaced it with the new one and 150 miles later its start bucking again! I should use some Egytion techniques next time.
wow awesome very cool, i wish to get that many miles
@@itiswhatitis7473 Use this in your oil and gastank Marvel Mystery Oil. I Use it in all my cars also, I add transmission fluid in my engine 300 miles before oil changes. Its a detergent which cleans the carbon build up inside the engine. I do it to all my cars and they hit high miles and internal engine parts stays like new. Thats my secret. You can do your home work.
@@rostravelventure my uncle has been using that for years upon years and i never even thought about it thank you very much ill try it out
STAY SAFE of course
I'm having this same issue thanks for sharing 👏
Good video. Thank you. Just washed my engine and this shit happened to me. VTEC solenoid code and losing power/bucking at 3500 rpms.
FIRST - change your oil with 5/20 weight. That will solve this 8/10 times... old or low oil will cause this to happen. Next - add 4oz of sea foam to your crank case (where you pour new oil in). This has worked for me in the past. It cleans the engine - you have to drive for 100miles then do an oil change to get rid of the gunk you just washed out. Those 2 solved my issues and this problem popped up again 3 days ago so im no replacing the filter as described here.
@@asanti76 That's good advice. I actually had just done that not long before this happened. I had just changed the oil and used sea foam, I think it said one ounce per quart and I also added a bottle of Lubegard engine protectant.(the blue bottle) It turns out the problem I was having was in the connector pointed to in this video having corrosion on it.
Axle F I’ll check the connector tomorrow
awesome job: this was very detailed and helpful.
I spy “zip ties”. Somebody has been busy under the hood before. I remember those caveman days wiling to take on anything under the hood, some were successful others were a train wreck head for a derailment into the ocean. Keep on Bob, we will be down in a few minutes to hold your beer.
Excellent video! Thanks!
I’m happy I could help
Good job man. Thank you, it was very helpful.
Romeo's Relics I am glad you benefited from the video I hope it helped
Thank you man, for a very informative video!
Alan Stroms I do hope it helped thank you for the like.
I just change that few month ago and the car was good but then start again I change the trasmision solenoids and still the same I need help is my daily car for work!!!
JeysonElRussian it could be the wire leading to the solenoid, when it happened To me again I reved the engine close to redline it and stopped
Thanks
The question is... how the heck is water getting into it way back there...?
Awesome video man. Thanks for the help.
When replacing the spool/VTEC solenoid, be sure to buy a genuine Honda part from the dealer. Too many fakes on eBay and Amazon. TRUST ME. I learned the hard way. Also keep good synthetic oil and Denso or Wix (NAPA gold) oil filters changed regularly!!
I bought and ebay one still bouncing at 4k with the solenoid code.. one at honda dealer is 375😢 but I Hate to pay almost 400 dollars and it not be fixed
Thanks for the info did u have any misfiring with this problem. I'm throwing the same code and getting misfires with it
Yes I did
the reason i just got one of those for my friends car is because if i clean out the old one, it will have a smashed gasket. iam guessing they are not available, maybe from honda but not sure.
john smith what is your question about the gasket?
Good job brother!
Thank you
What I didn't see in the video was if you transferred the heat shield from the old VTec solenoid over to the new one.
Yes
The replacement still does the jobs ? At that prices doesn`t seem to be the OEM PART. Are people that are saying with the After Market replacements (usually Made in China) the fix worked just a month or so. BTW, seeing how wear is on sensor - I guess the replacement of that sensor and the gasket would also did. Anyway, great video ! Nice and clear. Also this works for Accords or Civics withe the same engine code ( 2.0L or 2.4 L )
Dumitrescu Mihail yes still working strong no issues at all
@@itiswhatitis7473 good to know :) Great video !
Thanks mate... i have same problem with my Honda Odyssey 2.4 . Is it the solenoid for my car ?
And what is the price ?
Local mechanic is asking for $1500 to do the job . But i as m sure i can do it by myself. So please reply my questions. THANKS
I think it was like $30-$50 for the part and a little time to do it
Thanks dear for saving my money ❤❤❤
Don't go with a cheap part get original Honda part or you will be replacing again put a 40 buck part on same thing bucking so spent 138 on good Honda part works fine
that works too mine is still going strong
My 05 element won’t go pass 3000 Rpms it bucking and surging when I accelerate. No codes for vtech issues. Only p0507 and abs light. Please help
Yes I had the same thing check this sensor unplug it and check inside the connector or if you have a code clear it
There are many potential causes of code P0507.
Intake/vacuum air leak (most likely cause)
Faulty Idle Air Controller (IAC) Valve.
Faulty power steering pressure switch.
Faulty electric throttle control actuator.
Improperly adjusted throttle cable.
Carbon buildup on the throttle body.
Check what sensor?
Replaced it a couple times myself. So annoying when the code comes up lol
Thanks bro
I’m happy to help
I'm using 10mm socket been trying for over a week and can't get mines off any tips
It’s a hard spot to get to remove the hood and hover over the back of the engine
Hey so I bought a 2004 element with 87k for 5500 i test drove it work good but I didn't try the heat ac was ok so I brought it home from ny to pa but did a pit stop in nj shell station route 206 then it sat for a week. Next time I start it the heat didn't work onlet hose to heater core was hot the other room temperature shortly after the engine start to shake like crazy the send code misfire p0300, p0301 n p0302 and later it did say misfire on all 4 cylinder I install new plugs I swap one coil pack for new but befor that when I disconnected each coil pace at a time the engine did rev up some thinking it not coil pack. Now I'm thinking it might be bad gas as I was very low on gas when I did a complete fill up but it drove like 40 miles good any suggest help plz tnks
Andy Andy my heat doesn’t work either I narrowed it down to the air blend valve controller something named that.
@@itiswhatitis7473 I got the p0300 p0301 p0302 p0303 p0303 all miss fire so when I start the car from cold or hot it start rev up a little n then down want to know if to change the vtec screen
@@itiswhatitis7473 can this sonoloid cause all 4 cylinder misfire I've change all spark plug n coil pact when I change my oil it was extremely dirty black with sediment so my vtec sonoloid was rusted but the filter was extremely clog i will replace the entire thing just want to know it that will cause misfire engine code
Andy Andy thank you for your patience. I would most definitely make sure it is all clean
Can this solenoid cause misfire?
I've had this replaced twice. The last time was at the dealership with Honda parts. It fixed the problem at 3000 rpm, but it's still misfiring like crazy upon starting. It sounds like only one cylinder is working at first. All ignition coils were replaced a couple of months ago, which also didn't help. Could it be the ECU temperature sensor? Thanks for the great video!
Blocked Filter screen on the Selonoid can also cause the Problem as it confuses the VVTI phasing of the Cam leading to bucking and check engine light related to the Transmission.. but does throw a secondary specific Code related out of range code for number four Cylinder....great you spotted same great Upload and good idea to seal up those electrical wires ..
Valve adjustment is one thing to fix misfires....
how much was this part cost and is this oem or other manufactorer?
I'm having a problem with removing the bolts smh they are either stripped or I'm turned them the wrong why to loosen them idk I'm lost at this point
Akira Thomas are they stripped I know it’s hard to see
@@itiswhatitis7473 i hope not but I thinking I was trying to take them off the wrong way...is it clockwise or counter clockwise ? Because I went with righty tity lefty loosely lol
Akira Thomas yeah it hard because it’s kinda backwards I do thing you can access it if you remove the passenger wheel and try to reach from there in the wheel well
@@itiswhatitis7473 ok sir I'll let you know how it goes
@@steelersnation4L what ever happened
IF YOU ARE SHOWING P2646 IT IS 90 PCT CAUSED BY MOISTURE IN THOSE CONNECTORS. EASY FIX!!!
thanks man
Arlyn Jimenez you’re welcome
If you need to replace the 3 bolts you can get them here:
#20
Bolt, Flange (6x55)
95701-06055-08
www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2003-honda-element-5-door--ex-4wd-sd-a-b--4-speed-automatic/engine--vtc-oil-control-valve
Did you use any gasket sealant on the new solenoid?
Yeah
Nice work
How to find the fuse for windshield wipers fuse
the fuse box
Did the aftermarket work well and for a long time??
Yes still working strong
@@itiswhatitis7473 Great...lol I bought one too. so far so good. Thanks.
I can't trust eBay parts to seal properly on my 2004 element using an oem gasket but an aftermarket eBay seller part. It's been over a year since you made this video if you look at it for leaks now how does it look and do you feel that you can trust the part without having to buy another one later on?
1sttobylopez still works great no leaks and no issues I’m very happy
Just replaced mine. No more bucking at 3k but engine light still on 🙄
Marco Vallotto just keep deleting it maybe it will go away gotta give it some time to recalibrate
@@itiswhatitis7473 did your “check engine light” go away? I changed mine and same thing happened
Replaced what? Solenoid? There are no codes for solenoids just P0507 and abs light and check engine light.
did the check engine light go out on its own or did you have to erase it yourself?
I think I erased it
My element is having random misfire codes comming on & off. And car stutters even stalls when cold. But after driving it on the freeway it goes away, and car reaches temperature problems go away .
This is likely to be one of several issues, all of which would be related to the recessed spark plugs. Remove the cover on the top of the valve cover to access the coil packs that attach to the spark plugs. Most likely you have either a bad spark plug, a bad coil pack or you may have oil or water that has leaked down on top of the spark plug. If you find oil there is an o ring around each plug and a valve cover gasket kit should take care of it. If you need to replace plugs, use cheap NGKs after you find the issue or if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks use NGK iridium plus, which will last the longest. Good luck.
Axle F the spark plugs are good he coil 3/4 coils show signs of the corona stains i havent tested the coil though i cant find the specs online. I am replacing the coil and injectors
@@slow6six620 I would not waste time replacing those injectors. It is likely either a coil/coils or an injector and not both. In my experience(30 years dealing with Hondas) it is almost always a coil/wire/plug and not an injector and I have owned literally thousands of Hondas.(Im a car dealer) Especially if you take off oem Honda injectors to replace them with cheaper ones. You can tell for sure if it is a coil by swapping the coil on the cylinder that it says the misfire is on, with one that does not have a misfire. If your misfire moves, then the coil is bad.
@@axlef1513 i got cylinder 2 misfire...replaced coil, spark plug, injector and cleaned vtc screen and tested the vtc valve..still nothing..im replacing this vtc oil actuator next
O ...forgot to mention i also got an stuck in advanced code also
Where you get that wood trim?
Came with it
They are not identical they look different inside !!!! ??????
Could you put the link to the part on ebay?
www.ebay.com/itm/VTEC-Solenoid-Spool-Valve-15810-RAA-A03-Fit-For-Honda-CRV-Accord-Element/291773859934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
China made parts - careful unreliable parts, may cause problems in the near future.
How did you remove the sensor?
with sockets
@@itiswhatitis7473 Thank you
Yo cambie esa pieza y luego apague la luz pero siempre me vuelve a aparecer la luz y la misma falla
Me paso lo mismo a mí estoy teniendo el mismo problema
Mines been changed multiple times it doesn’t fix it
Get a compression test. I changed mine several times didn’t fix it, had to get another engine
Engine only has 123,000 miles
Did you get it working?
Nope sold it last month for 8,500
@@EZ4U2Say11 nice
Didn’t fix mine.
Good stuff - thank you
My ebay solenoid didnt work😮
I did this, now I have a code coming up P1259
Did you get it working?
@@itiswhatitis7473 Yes
@@itiswhatitis7473 Yessir
@@bludragontruck9743 awesome
VTEC YO!
I have a j35
so what the fuck signs when it go out
What a waste of my time. You don't explain how you figured out the problem.
Ok
Only a vtec engine!!!!
Is that the automatic Honda element? How much is for that part,?my is 2003 it fills like the transmission is sleeping,!