On my 2007 Accord i removed the three bolts from underneath the car. There was plenty of room to see the bolts and to get my hands on them. I had the car up on Rhino ramps. It also made it easier to line up the bolts to thread them back into their respective threaded holes. Instead of pushing those two plastic clips that secure the wires back into the unit i used zip/cable ties. From above to remove the two wire connectors I disconnected the clamp on the power steering hose attached to the engine. Then I could move it aside. Thank you Jim.
Like Jim says, the OEM part is a must in this case. I was lucky. I got 1 1/2 years out of the aftermarket part but some people get them bad out of the box. The extra cost is definitely worth it in this case.
It was a easy fix Took 15 min I used Honda OEM vaccummed wrapped part from Honda dealership ( but who knows these days with so many fakes for sale) But it looked official. Fixed issue right away now it will maintain engine speed again on 3000rpm with no issues.
My V-tech solenoid was spraying oil for weeks.. Changed the seal.. supplied from Honda .. Still leaked.. changed the tappet gasket and plug seals.. Still leaking.. Ends up the leak was coming from the solenoid itself.. ( not the gasket seal that sits on the engine ) So.. Thame the assembly off the car, then remove the actual solenoid from the assembly.. under that is a rubber seal ( that NO ONE TALKS ABOUT ).. Mine was dry cracked and as hard as stone… I cleaned it with isopropyl and placed gasket silicon ( small amount ) to stop the leak until I can get to replace it.. No more leak 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
very nice presentation Jim. Very well explained. Thank you. I much prefer working on older cars from the 60s, but I’m interested in seeing how things are done on the newer vehicles.
Great video Jim! Was confident with this job going into it but it’s always nice to pick up extra tips from guys like yourself👍 makes the job even easier
...those 3 bolts should be tightened to 7.8 ft-lbs to ensure a seal AND to make sure you don't strip/break them. Bought a small 5-20 ft-lb torque wrench for the job.
Would be nice if you explained changing the SOLENOID rather the actuator. The solenoid is located on the left side of the block and you have to reach around the damn motor mount to get to it. Good luck on it. Was hoping for advice on that instead of the part you changed.
Jim how did determine this part needed replacement please advise BTW I am not a technician just a guy who has an interest in maintaining his own car. But these videos confirm to me that people are well advised to send their unit to you as they build confidence & trust in your service renderings
@@malibuman8941 Said it had a code but not what the code was, numerically.... also how was it running before the repairs? any unusually sounds, etc. It would have been more informative if he has shown a before condition with the old problem and then with the repairs completed. Taking it for a road test... but the viewer was not included in the drive like say, west main auto site does his repairs routine. Having one of these autos... but no problems as of yet. been nice to know what to be looking for as for sounds, driving issues and the code, per se.
Yes oil leak and getting stuck, actually you can clean and buy vtec solenoid spool gasket and oil pressure O ring to fix the leaking. And to solve the stuck problem you just clean with brake anf parts cleaner.
This is a million times more difficult on the RDX (2.3l). All of the turbo stuff is in the way. Same procedure, but with way more in the way. Wish it was this easy.
I was finally able to get it in case anybody else needs help. On the RDX, you need to remove the three bolts holding the turbo head shield, then remove the smaller heat shield that has two bolts. This will give you access to the three bolts on the valve, There's a coolant hose, as well as a turbo pipe there, so space is limited, but it can be done with a 1/4 10mm. I also unbolted the power steering hose from the pump to move it out of the way since the intercooler gives you very little room to begin with.
My mechanic replaced the vvt solenoid. My car feels lazy and it shakes. The same mechanic checked the car again and the same code came out. He now told me to replace the timing change
Only time will tell. How long ago did you replaced it ? If more than 5000 miles, what brand did you replaced it with? Maybe certain brands are bad, like Dormant electrical parts.
@ Tell It To The World-Since it’s your own vehicle and you can replace it yourself without much effort, then I understand because I often make the same choice especially after reading positive reviews on the aftermarket part. If the aftermarket product works, I’ve saved some money ($80 I assume in your case.) If it fails, then I took a gamble that didn’t pay off and I can replace it again with the genuine Honda part. But in Jim’s case he is fixing the vehicle for a customer. It would be a bad business decision to take that gamble with a customer’s car. If the aftermarket part failed, then you would have an angry customer who would spread the word to avoid your shop. If the genuine Honda part failed, then Jim could at least prove to the customer that he used the best/recommended part. This Honda part would most likely be under warranty for free replacement and Jim could eat his 1/2 hour labor cost to install it. Then the customer might not be unhappy.
Hi Jim, Another great video. I need some preventative work done 2 radiator hoses, anti-freeze change out and thermostat assembly, along with a flange repair needed on the CAT to resonator pipe, on my 06 CRV 150K. I'm thinking about having you do the work. You're about 45 minutes from me. Let me know what you think.
Good job mate and thanks for the instructions. Are you from England? Your accent seems to be a mix of british and american. But I think It's very articulate and agreeable.
So I’ve replaced this part And my crv is still bucking at around 50. No clue what the problem and don’t want to spend money on parts that don’t need to be replaced.
They're both considered variable timing solenoids. This is the spool valve one (vtec) and the other one on the side of the engine is the oil control valve.
@@IlluminatingNight the one on the side is the VTC oil control. You’re absolutely right, get the Honda one. I’ve seen nightmares come through the shop with aftermarket ones. We normally replaced those because of an oil leak pretty bad and not only from the strainer gasket.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally. A detailed master teacher. Someone who actually knows how to explain what their doing for once lol
OEM is the cheapest option in the long run. Nicely done buddy.
that is for sure. You use cheep parts and they will let you down.
when it comes to honda, most definitely
On my 2007 Accord i removed the three bolts from underneath the car. There was plenty of room to see the bolts and to get my hands on them. I had the car up on Rhino ramps. It also made it easier to line up the bolts to thread them back into their respective threaded holes. Instead of pushing those two plastic clips that secure the wires back into the unit i used zip/cable ties. From above to remove the two wire connectors I disconnected the clamp on the power steering hose attached to the engine. Then I could move it aside. Thank you Jim.
Like Jim says, the OEM part is a must in this case. I was lucky. I got 1 1/2 years out of the aftermarket part but some people get them bad out of the box. The extra cost is definitely worth it in this case.
It was a easy fix Took 15 min I used Honda OEM vaccummed wrapped part from Honda dealership ( but who knows these days with so many fakes for sale) But it looked official. Fixed issue right away now it will maintain engine speed again on 3000rpm with no issues.
My V-tech solenoid was spraying oil for weeks..
Changed the seal.. supplied from Honda ..
Still leaked.. changed the tappet gasket and plug seals..
Still leaking..
Ends up the leak was coming from the solenoid itself.. ( not the gasket seal that sits on the engine )
So.. Thame the assembly off the car, then remove the actual solenoid from the assembly.. under that is a rubber seal ( that NO ONE TALKS ABOUT )..
Mine was dry cracked and as hard as stone…
I cleaned it with isopropyl and placed gasket silicon ( small amount ) to stop the leak until I can get to replace it..
No more leak 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Gracias
Are you talking about the oil pressure seal, it’s circular??
very nice presentation Jim. Very well explained. Thank you. I much prefer working on older cars from the 60s, but I’m interested in seeing how things are done on the newer vehicles.
9
Great video Jim! Was confident with this job going into it but it’s always nice to pick up extra tips from guys like yourself👍 makes the job even easier
Thank you for your helpful / clear video. I"m an educator, and I can tell a good teacher when I see one. Well Done Sir!
...those 3 bolts should be tightened to 7.8 ft-lbs to ensure a seal AND to make sure you don't strip/break them. Bought a small 5-20 ft-lb torque wrench for the job.
This is a great video very easy to see because you showed me but, i cant unscrew them. Aww bolts stripped😢. My windsheild flat too 😩
Great job as always Jim!
Thanks Jim great explanation, love your video God Bless
Glad you enjoyed it
Three bolts for the vtech win! Nice one Jim
Thanks 👍
Thumbs up Jim, nicely done!
Thanks for the visit
Would be nice if you explained changing the SOLENOID rather the actuator. The solenoid is located on the left side of the block and you have to reach around the damn motor mount to get to it. Good luck on it. Was hoping for advice on that instead of the part you changed.
Mine leaks oil. It’s the VVT solenoid
Thank you so much! Helped me a lot!
Jim how did determine this part needed replacement please advise
BTW I am not a technician just a guy who has an interest in maintaining his own car. But these videos confirm to me that people are well advised to send their unit to you as they build confidence & trust in your service renderings
Jim did explained it at 12:30 the CEL showed the code for that.
It had a code
@@malibuman8941 Said it had a code but not what the code was, numerically.... also how was it running before the repairs? any unusually sounds, etc. It would have been more informative if he has shown a before condition with the old problem and then with the repairs completed. Taking it for a road test... but the viewer was not included in the drive like say, west main auto site does his repairs routine. Having one of these autos... but no problems as of yet. been nice to know what to be looking for as for sounds, driving issues and the code, per se.
@@bwest-yq3uc it's in the description. Code is also on the main video where you click.
It did have a code in the computer. Thanks for watching.
Thank you amigo I am learning on all your videos thank you
What was the customer's complaint? That looks like an inconvenient place for a part replacement but you made it look easy. Thanks!
What is the mechanical issue that would cause you to replace this part? Oil leak?
Yes oil leak and getting stuck, actually you can clean and buy vtec solenoid spool gasket and oil pressure O ring to fix the leaking. And to solve the stuck problem you just clean with brake anf parts cleaner.
This is a million times more difficult on the RDX (2.3l). All of the turbo stuff is in the way. Same procedure, but with way more in the way. Wish it was this easy.
I was finally able to get it in case anybody else needs help. On the RDX, you need to remove the three bolts holding the turbo head shield, then remove the smaller heat shield that has two bolts. This will give you access to the three bolts on the valve, There's a coolant hose, as well as a turbo pipe there, so space is limited, but it can be done with a 1/4 10mm. I also unbolted the power steering hose from the pump to move it out of the way since the intercooler gives you very little room to begin with.
Thank you for your input
How do you add oil to the solenoid? Or does it come from the engine?
My mechanic replaced the vvt solenoid. My car feels lazy and it shakes. The same mechanic checked the car again and the same code came out. He now told me to replace the timing change
I replaced mine with an aftermarket part and haven't have any issues.
Only time will tell. How long ago did you replaced it ? If more than 5000 miles, what brand did you replaced it with? Maybe certain brands are bad, like Dormant electrical parts.
@@malibuman8941 It was replace with a Dorman brand which I picked up at Advance Auto Parts back in September 17, 2017.
Not yet.
@@staypositive4358 Well, its been over 3 years
@ Tell It To The World-Since it’s your own vehicle and you can replace it yourself without much effort, then I understand because I often make the same choice especially after reading positive reviews on the aftermarket part. If the aftermarket product works, I’ve saved some money ($80 I assume in your case.) If it fails, then I took a gamble that didn’t pay off and I can replace it again with the genuine Honda part. But in Jim’s case he is fixing the vehicle for a customer. It would be a bad business decision to take that gamble with a customer’s car. If the aftermarket part failed, then you would have an angry customer who would spread the word to avoid your shop. If the genuine Honda part failed, then Jim could at least prove to the customer that he used the best/recommended part. This Honda part would most likely be under warranty for free replacement and Jim could eat his 1/2 hour labor cost to install it. Then the customer might not be unhappy.
Very godo video. Thanks for being so clear.
Glad it was helpful!
Sir, before to remove the solenoid valve need to disconnect the battery?
Nope remove it , put it in your closet before starting for safety. Don't need to chance it
Hi Jim, Another great video. I need some preventative work done 2 radiator hoses, anti-freeze change out and thermostat assembly, along with a flange repair needed on the CAT to resonator pipe, on my 06 CRV 150K. I'm thinking about having you do the work. You're about 45 minutes from me. Let me know what you think.
thank you great job
So.. who does napa build parts for if not aftermarket
Hi mi dealer telme I need to service to selenoide so mi cushion is how many have selenoid to honda crv 2004
Great help thanks a million
Nice video, thanks
how many solenoids does the car have? only one or two?
Good job mate and thanks for the instructions. Are you from England? Your accent seems to be a mix of british and american. But I think It's very articulate and agreeable.
Thank you. I'm from New Jersey but everyone tell me I sound like I'm from somewhere in New England.
Thank you for you video is gooooood
Iv fone this 10 times the small screen keeps plugging up any information on what I can do to stop that from happening
@Sean T I am guessing that you have some sludge in your crankcase oil that is difficult to flush out but somehow keeps plugging up the filter screen.
Great job
Just like my Honda Element!
Yes all the 2.4 liters are the same.Thank you for watching.
That's a VTEC solenoid. Not VVT.
So I’ve replaced this part And my crv is still bucking at around 50. No clue what the problem and don’t want to spend money on parts that don’t need to be replaced.
Did you ever get it fixed mine is doing the same thing
Try vct screen Under the tensioner?
same
@@chelseywashington6158 get an oil change! It was the fix for me!
I got one 🥺
I'd love to go with the OEM version; but, their pricing is absurd and insulting. Wishing mechanics would get together and lobby against these tyrants.
Nice vedio
Thanks for watching.
mine was leaking what should i do
If it is leaking I would recommend replacing it.
I'm listening
That's a vtec solenoid not vvt two completely different parts
They're both considered variable timing solenoids. This is the spool valve one (vtec) and the other one on the side of the engine is the oil control valve.
@@IlluminatingNight the one on the side is the VTC oil control. You’re absolutely right, get the Honda one. I’ve seen nightmares come through the shop with aftermarket ones. We normally replaced those because of an oil leak pretty bad and not only from the strainer gasket.