ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2018
- This video is about how to replace the nozzle, take an example of ANYCUBIC I3 Mega.
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It is indeed very tight, and a long thread. To remove on the Kobra Max, I heated it up, removed the filament, let it cool down (maybe works better if hot, not sure), then I removed the silicon cover, held the hotend with an adjustable crescent wrench so I could hold it firmly in place with my left hand, then used an impact wrench with a 7mm or 8mm socket (the little cordless "wrench" drill things that click loudly).
Does this apply for the Kobra Max? Would love to know how to replace nozzle on your self-leveling printers.
Can i use any brand of nozzles? Which brand do you recommended?
Thank you for this! I can finally get back to printing after replacing.
on the kobra go, you do have to remove the fan housing or you won't be able to get a grip on the heating element, also you have to remove it while its hot - it straight up won't go if its cold.
Is their any way to fix broken plugs for the fan box?
Welp!
Is the Nozzle type for the I3 Mega the same as the one in the Anycubic Chiron? I tried contacting the support team and I tried joining the facebook group but cant get help. I want to replace the 0.4mm one with a different size I just cant figure out which type to buy. (size of the thread/length..etc).
If anyone can provide assistance or even a link to a type they recommend that works for the Chiron I would greatly appreciate it
Thanks, more video please (How to Replace the Extruder) .
I'd like to know the same thing...as we have the Anycubic Mega Pro
I have an Anycubic Viper and after less than 100 hours the filament is blocked. I would like to see videos on how to change the hotend and what is around it.
im assuming this is how you do it on the anycube chiron????
Hi. I would like to ask you a question. The filament sensor of "anycubic i3 mega s" produces a "click" noise when pushing the filament. This is normal?
I also can not level the bed, since the center is uneven. The strange thing is that I think it's flat. If you have any advice with your experience, I thank you.
The slight clicking noise when you push filament into the sensor is normal. That's the actual sensor mechanically noticing that filament is present.
When your print bed isn't even, pretty much your only chance is to contact anycubic or the company you bought the printer from and ask for a replacement.
Thanks for the video. Why remove the fan cover? It seems like the nozzle and the block are both easily accessible without removing anything... What is the point in these seemingly redundant steps?
For purposes of showing what is going on in the video, also it makes a lot easier to work on the nozzle without the fan unit. You have to have done this before to understand it.
@@MarioIArguello Yes. It is some rocket science for sure.
@@MarioIArguello I dunno, I have done this before and it still didn't really seem necessary. Slightly easier maybe, but not completely necessary.
A question
Where can I get a new bearing mount ? One of these plastic parts
Hi Sir. Feel sorry we do not sell this kind of small accessories separately. If you want to buy, please kindly contact the store-colleagues. They will tell you the cost and arrange the shipment to you.
Thank you in advance.
we need to mantein temperature high when we are taking off noozle?
Yes otherwise it will tear out the threads
The supplied 7mm hex socket wrench won't fit the nozzle!!!
Yeah its wonderfully useless
The one that they give is around 8mm, not actually 7mm
⁰@@walt_man .
A standard 9/32 will fit it.
It's downright unbelievable! Luckily I found one at the right size at home...
Nice music! Makes me feel so happy and optimistic! Nice!
But you can change the nozzle without removing the fan protection, that's how I do it.
What type of pliers are those?
I had to use locking pliers last time and scratched up the heat block.
Please , send me link to bye a new lcd for anicubic i3 mega , the oltre is broken
how we clean the clogged nozzle?
Question. What are the dimensions of the nozzle? I mean, thread, pitch, and diameter of the hole
it says 7mm
M6 thread OD. .40 is standard size of hole (can get smaller .25 or bigger)
E3D V6 nozzles or clones of will fit OK, same dimensions of nozzle.
A Mk8 will fit too, but they're a little bit short, not so good at heating plastic (less surface area) and you got to screw the heatbreak in lots too far to get them to work at all.
help me please, when connecting my mega S printer the hotend starts to heat automatically and as long as I do not turn off the hotend heater it does not stop heating, the t0 senser abnormal has appeared but there is no broken wire, including the table is normal and the hotend sensor also seems normal to me, but then what will be the problem with this printer?
Sorry for inconvenience. You can describe your problem in detail there: www.anycubic.com/pages/contact-us
Should the nozzle be removed when hot? I tried like this and its not moving. Some forums suggested to preheat it before removing it.
It worked fine fir me to remove the nozzle when I overheated it at 230. Was stuck because of some filament.
Yes
@@ANYCUBIC3D what an insightful and in depth answer, congratulations on half answering the question, maybe explain the importance of this step; or would you prefer to just talk about removing the screws from the heat cover?
what kinf of nozzle uses the anycubic megazero ? mk6?
M6 threading
My Mega S has blue silicon around the heat block. Am I supposed to remove the silicon or not before I grab the hotend with the pliers?
Pls yes otherwise the silicon get damaged
you figure out how to get that silicon off and back on? I didnt want to just start yankin on it if there was a process
@@thebluntrappa just grab it and pull it down. There is no special thing
Is the nozzle glue to the hotend or what ? I almost brok the hotend because how much force i had to apply..half hour to change the nozzle..don't understand why the nozzle is tigh so strongly😫
Subtitles on 2:03 - "Unscrew clockwise". Very clever! Just broke nozzle in half and couldn't put its screw-thread
out of heating box!
Like you would unscrew everything else! Did you ever use any screws?
@@AntiHeadshot There are products you unscrew clockwise. Did you ever use your brain?
The video is correct, it's clockwise from that perspective. If you are looking from under to the nozzle, then it's anti clockwise.
@@jiehfeng try holding a pen in front of you. From the perspective in the video, if it is stated as clockwise to unscrew, if you rotate the pen you're holding so the point faces you, the rotational direction to unscrew does not change.
Correct. I am totally shocked ANYCUBIC has not corrected this video
No matter what orientation you are viewing from, the turn method is the same.
To take the screw out you go counter-clockwise
To replace the screw you go clockwise
While I agree there are some instances where you turn clockwise to loosen things such as taking a pedal off a bike on one side, this is NOT the case here
You can even see his hands turning clockwise when putting the new screw in
Righty Tighty
Lefty Loosey
please, can you make a video of how to change the bed glass
hey there, please visit: th-cam.com/video/XvxBkcc4w5I/w-d-xo.html
hope this video is helpful for you.
спасибо!
My nozzel is touching the bed how do I raise it off so I can replace it
Hey guys!
Are there any smaller size nozzles for this?
Like 0.05 mm?
Looks like .20 is the smallest recommended size.
What a great way to remove all the fingerprints on my left hand! THANKS Anycubic.
How?
@@HunTer3600 he got burned with 200 degrees printer hotend
Lmao gotta use your own head buddy
Harder to track you now
1:36 my hex screw was stripped from the inside and wouldn't come off, i'm now in the process of disassembling the entire extruder head casing. Had to get the Dremmel out and cut the screw head off ....WTF Anycubic.
exactly the same issue... I do not have a Dremmel so I had to improvise...
I did all this, but now my nozzle won't heat up at all. What did I do wrong? Any advice from the comments section?
check your thermoresistor wire
@@RakTheGoose I'm afraid that's beyond my skill set. Both the extruder fans work, and the temperature monitor goes up and down when I blow hot air on it and let it cool. So I feel like I know generally where the problem is, but I don't have enough experience to try to monkey around with it.
@@SirRosser if in doubt, the thermistor which is the that tiny device that is in the aluminum block ( head) to monitor temperature and adjust the heat to the head accordingly, is a simple unit, with its own connector, simply install a new one, you have to be careful not to fray the thin wires, or simply replace the complete head, much easier than messing with the tip, the healer element or thermistor individually. Also very inexpensive, as a complete unit.
@@SirRosser These are still very much in the enthusiast market. If you didn't hold the block in place with pliers or vice grips, you probably twisted the block and ripped out the heater element wire. It's easy to fix for DIY printer owners. You just have to trace wires and replace the heating element.
@@bryonmiller6311 Thanks! I was able to fix that about five years ago. Funny enough, though, just before Christmas I fired it up to print some last-minute trinkets, heard a hiss, and a puff of smoke came out. So now I gotta take it apart to see what went wrong this time. But it worked great for years in between problems.
take 30 seconds to show us how to remove 4 screws, 15 to unplug the fan, turn off the machine and take off the old nozzle, 16 to install the new nozzle and reattach the fan and finally another 32 seconds on how to replace those 4 screws.......
You need to sort this out, no close ups, slow-mo's or dandy graphics were anywhere to be seen when actually dealing with the nozzle. a guide of where/ how to hold the heater block with the pliers would be nice too considering the warning about damaging parts if not done correctly
Sooo, according to this video, my machine has to be turned off?
Also my coldend has no threads and seems to be pressfit.
You have to heat up the nozzle to loosen any hardened plastic that might be holding it in place. Take off the shroud, don't disconnect electronics while it's actually on like they did in this video, just get the shroud off. Then turn off the printer, you'll have several minutes to remove the nozzle before it cools down too much. I never have power going through the machine while I'm using tools on it like pliers, vice grips or sockets.
I did it like in this video and ripped out the fan cables. Not an optimal tutorial if you show how to damage stuff.
I don't see why they removed the housing... you can reach everything without doing that can't you?
Yup
Why do you need to disassemble the main unit, just unscrew the nozzle on the bottom
Don’t need to take the rest off
For purposes of showing what is going on in the video, also it makes a lot easier to work on the nozzle without the fan unit. You have to have done this before to understand it.
YOU'LL BREAK HEATING AND SENSOR CABLE AFTER THAT.the nozzle,especially in totally new machine is far tighter than the heat block-cooler mount,and the cable is on the heat block.i've just broke my anycubic chiron by this way.
You need to secure the heat block or it can twist and damage both the heating element connection and the thermalcouple that measures the temperatures. I prefer the older design of FDM printers like the Flashforge creator pro where the block is external and easily able to get a pair of vice grips on.
Can it be replace in cold? after remove the filament of course.
yes, you can.
I must be stupid, just can't figure out how I get the Nozzle to raise it that high above the platform?
Home fist, raise second!
This destroyed my printer head and my replacement head. The nozzle twisted clean off leaving the thread part in the heating element. Same with the spare head. Had to order a new part which luckily is only 18€ but still :( this is not the way to replace the nozzle
Same here.. this instructional video is dangerous.
Also, i think the nozzle/Hotend has to be way hotter, to be removed safely.
@@dawudmc i drilled the nozzle thread and removed it that way. But take care and only drill the nozzle part. That way I could save my hotend as a spare part ig
@@thighgamingalexo28 Since i do not have a way to carve a winding and the rest of the nozzle is stil in the hotend i tried a screw-removal tool for my prowerdrill.. without any success.. i think i have to buy a new hotend-block.
Thank you anyway
I had to change the entire hotend. I did the whole procedure correctly, now the filament is melting from the nozzle and coming out of a bad smell and a little smoke as if it were frying the filament when leaving. I already changed 2 hotend and it continues the same thing. The temperature is normal about 200 °
i tried unplugging the cable and it broke. This pisses me off. Now i gotta see if they can repair it.🤬🤬
Why is the most important part glossed over in 3 seconds! Using the wrenches! I'm a professional maintenance engineer, and this could be done better for I3 users. Also the person in this video just burned their finger on that cooling 200 degree heat sink, might want to warn people about working on hot equipment!
Hmmm. I think my nozzle is immobilized with a grub screw in the heater block.
Hopefully undoing it and refiling a couple of flats willl let me take the old one out.
All to change the inner PTFE liner which is in 2 pieces.
Don't believe the video, work out which way to unscrew by practising on the replacement.
the allen key is not 3mm but 2,5 mm !!!
Sorry, we will check that.
ANYCUBIC 3mm a little to big yes its 2,5 mm
@@rbava82 Thanks for your feedback
Greetings buy an Anycubic Mega Pro. And buy a 1.75mm LPA wood filament but the manufacturer tells me. to have no jam that will change nozzle to 0.6mm you will have nozzle reference for my 3D printer. I appreciate the support. /
Its easier on the kossel i think
changing the nozzle is, yea.
but you really don't wanna replace the hotend on a kossel
Why not
@@gotmilk1245678910 you have to disassemble the whole effector :P
Its a total of like 8 screws
@@gotmilk1245678910 16, actually.
But you'll also have to fiddle around with the assembly and stuff. I did it several times and it's really annoying
Warning: absolutely do not do it at 200 degrees Celsius. Whoever made this video is completely wrong. Add at least 50 degrees and it’s Right, trying to remove the nozzle at only 200 will break it.
How would it break?
1:52 just destroyed my cable -.-
yeah, mine too, the cable came out, but not the connector.
mine also ,
I simply soldered it to the board
I used glue, like they did on the motors. Did smoke a bit but after that it worked.
xD it's not necessary to remove the cable
@@schlachtplan6090 you will need to carefully disconnect the small connectors inside the fan unit when working on the head, no need to remove the main large top connector on top of the fan unit.