How to Replace your Nozzle on the Anycubic Mega X
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2022
- In this latest video installment in the Anycubic Mega X: How To Series, I show you how to replace the nozzle on your machine. It is a simple but is a necessary process you will have to do at some point or another on your 3D printer. I wanted to make this video as straightforward as possible so that anyone who maybe scared to do so, can do so with no worries!
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The rest of the Anycubic Mega X: How to's Series:
• Anycubic Mega X How To's:
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LINK TO TOOL KIT USED IN VIDEO:
D Printer Nozzles + 4 DIY Tools for J-Head E3D V5 V6 0.2mm 0.3mm 0.4mm 0.5mm 0.6mm 0.8mm Nozzle Tool for Nozzle Replacement, Spanner, Installation Tools
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
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#Anycubic #MegaX #3DPrinting #B1G_Jano #Nozzle - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
How often do you change yor nozzle on your 3D printer? How long do you think is too long?
trying to do this on the Kobra Max is a pain in the ace.....
Thanks Jano! I received my Mega X about 2 weeks ago and its been such a joy to work with as my first printer. It's nice to know I have these video's to refer to down the road.
thank you for the tips bro. gonna expand my 0.8mm nozzle basement church
Thanks so much! It appears that you're the only one I've found to be this thorough.
Hi Jano, what nozzle would you recommend? Im looking for a 0.6 and 0.2 nozzle. I live in Norway so something in Europe would be great, I also have the Mega X
E3D V6 nozzles are a compatible replacement (and it is what I used in the video) They also have numerous sizes and materials.
When you said "tweak your temperature for the stainless steel nozzle", do you mean up or down?
Up. I would add a 5 degree increase for the hotend temp for a stainless steel nozzle
Hey mate. Stupid question but how far down the heat end should the white filament tubing go ? We are having bad blockages
It should go down pretty far. Almost until it reaches the heater block. The hotend will have a inside groove/edge that will stop the tube from going any farther so push it in until and can’t go any further.
Hi Jano, with my MegaX spares and tools, I got the whole hot end and bowden tube ( blue box thing ). Do you know why and why not just a hot end nozzle?
Anycubic is awesome of giving a entire spare hotend assembly. Some other 3d printing companies aren’t as generous. While replacing a nozzle is more likely, sometimes a really bad clog will make you have to replace the entire hot end. (Which Anycubic has a great video on how to do that.)
Also when it comes time to replace the ptfe tubing, I find it easier to replace by taking off the entire hotend assembly to do so. These are good spares to have so just hang on to them until you need them. I will advise to keep the nozzle that’s attached to the spare hotend attached to it and use a separate spare nozzle for swapping like this video references.
@@B1GJano Cheers Jano, I'll order a spare nozzle sometime in the distant future
Ps still printing the Tank, some parts take 14 hrs and not even finished the hull yet !
I tried to change my Anycubic kobra go nozzle but its stuck
You might be able to help me I’m having trouble with my hot end ? You know which one to buy to replace my mega x hotend I destroyed both hotend that came with them . I can seem to find the right hotend
So Anycubic does sell the hotend for the mega x on their website. Besides there, you can find them on Amazon. Look for a v5 j style hotend. That’s the same that’s on the machine.
@@B1GJano thanks 🙏 it’s been a big issues since I use the two hotend that came with the machine I bought one before from the website but they send me the wrong 😑 item and I also tried Amazon but I grave the wrong one it didn’t reach up to 230 cc when I tried to change my filament . Hopefully this one ☝️ solve my problems. Are you planning to buy the vyper any cubic with the auto leveling it seem much better in my opinion lol
I have one of these printers and I’m having a bad stringing issue, do you have a video on how to solve this?
I would play around with retraction settings little by little. Maybe slightly faster and maybe a tad longer. Also could be filament with moisture in it
@@B1GJano I use a dryer on them for a day before I print. So I know it’s not moisture. I will check the settings for retraction, maybe I will ice the orca slicer a chance too
B1g_Jano, I came home to find that my print had failed and was a big blobby mass. after it cooled I took off the blue cover for the hot-end and saw that plastic was all over the sides and bottom surface of the cube. It has filled some of the holes on the cube and looked like it burned some things. It looks like it leaked from the sides of the cube. I tried contacting the after sales support but they didn't give any help. I don't see any phone numbers either. What do I do no? I would like to know what happened so it doesn't happen again on the replacement hot-end. Thank you!
So to remove the blob. Just heat the hotend up to 200 and you should be able to (carefully) remove the blob being mindful of the wires. Don’t accidentally tear the thermistor wire.
In terms of why, it could be that your nozzle or heat block aren’t fully tighten. Check to see if they’re fully tightened. I would heat the nozzle to 230 before doing so and tighten it while it’s hot.
@@B1GJano thank you. I will try this.
While the nozzle is out, i'd recommend removing and checking the bowden tube and cleaning the hot end of any residue. When replacing the tube, insert the nozzle but don't tighten to 100%, just to 90% then replace the tube and then tighten to 100%. Good vid though mate.
Thank you for the tips! Glad you enjoyed the video!
You should not tighten the nozzle before making sure that no residual filament is caught between the nozzle and Bowden tube.
I always clear the path first and then put in the nozzle all the way and then back it out 1/4 turn then put in the Bowden tube and tighten the retaining nut and then tighten the nozzle.
Ok my dude, mine for some reason when starting a print the nozzle doesn't raise up and scratches the hell out the bed. I'm seriously considering getting rid of this POS.
If you haven’t already, check out my cura slicer setup video. There I show my start and end gcode. See if your starting gcode matches. There may be an issue with your beginning gcode that could be taking it down way too far.