Hi, thanks for watching I have not had any problems. No leaking, just one thing if using a different nozzle make sure you change the extrusion speed. if changing because I accidentally forgot to change it and when changing it to 0.3mm it got clogged and I needed to clean it. It was extruding more than can fit through the nozzle and getting clogged to just keep that in mind. But no other problems with the rustark nozzles.😊
@@VitalikHobbies Thank you very much for the reply. Nozzles on amazon with lots of 4-5 star reviews also have scattered 1 star reviews talking about the nozzles not being the correct height, causing leaking around the heat break. Most nozzles are made with creality in mind it seems. So i definitely wanted to find nozzles that fit Anycubic correctly. Im getting ready to attempt to unclog my stock nozzle. Pretty sure its clogged (im new to printing) all of the sudden my machine doesnt want to put down filament for several first skirt/brim lines. And worse, im getting nasty stringing (mostly on supports but its affecting my prints) that i cant dial out. Ive been messing with retraction distance/speed, wipe distance, coasting distance, and i have retract at layer change off.
If you are using the 0.4 nozzle standard with the printer and that is happening maybe your heat it to high or to low. What temp do you print and also what type of filament. I am not so experienced with printing too. But a lot of trouble shooting videos and problems with my printer Builds experience. After you fix them of course. But tell me what type of filament you are using (abs,pla,tpu) and at what temp do you print at. And are you using the standard 0.4 nozzle? Would love to help
@@VitalikHobbies thank you! -Machine: Mega X -Yes, I am using the stock Anycubic .04 Nozzle. -Material: PLA+ from IIID MAX A lot of comments on the FB listing referred to needing a slightly higher temp than normal for this brand. I had the Anycubic white filament tuned very well. And I printed it at 200 with a 205 initial layer on a 60° bed. I didn't want to change temps on all my gcode files so I tested the new filament (iiid max) at 200 and it printed. But I guess I wasn't seeing these issues. The issues are the worst when I'm printing a 30mm mini fig. But if the figure doesn't need much support, and is more curved, like squirtle, the prints come out butter smooth on the actual figure. Support is still janky. Okay so I moved my temp up from 200/205 to 205/210 but haven't noticed too much of a difference. A lot of people on the FB page printed at 210-215. The store owners also suggested a higher temp like that. I guess I just wanted to stay away from going that hot. I had learned that for miniatures the lowest temp you can print at is ideal. Now my prints are very stringy and the worst part is the weird thicker strands. Hard to explain. But they slowly appear due to the nozzle having excess filament and when it travels it hits the same spot, smearing a bit of filament there and causing these random little towers of filament appear all over the supports. Also on the FB page for this brand, people including the company mentioned that you may want to dry the filament out. I don't know what effects happen if a filament has moisture in it still. Currently printing a part. More slight setting changes. But I can see that it's not a clean print. This is after I ran the nozzle cleaning needle up into the nozzle a few times which didn't seem to pull out anything. If my temp isn't hot enough, will that cause the filament to be too stringy/more stringy than normal?
@@VitalikHobbies I just read something on reddit about too low of a temp can cause stringing.... Maybe I'll try upping my temp before I swap back to the Anycubic filament
Thanks, so to change to a .2 you’re gonna need a direct drive setup. It’s gonna need more force to push it through the smaller nozzle diameter. You can try increasing the heat and it might work. For me .2 is a little too small and print times will take a lot longer
@@VitalikHobbies ah makes sense. I tried higher temp but didn’t work. Thanks for the info. I’ll prob just stick with .3. Figured I’d just print smaller things haha
If you mean the metal case, not easily. It was hard to get a channel lock and wrench without removing it today that I just took it off. Took a few tries to get the nozzle off as it cools VERY quickly. When in doubt, heat up, power off n disconnect power.... power up..heat..
Did you end up having any issues with the Rustark nozzles? No filament leaking around the threading or anything?
Hi, thanks for watching I have not had any problems. No leaking, just one thing if using a different nozzle make sure you change the extrusion speed. if changing because I accidentally forgot to change it and when changing it to 0.3mm it got clogged and I needed to clean it. It was extruding more than can fit through the nozzle and getting clogged to just keep that in mind. But no other problems with the rustark nozzles.😊
@@VitalikHobbies Thank you very much for the reply. Nozzles on amazon with lots of 4-5 star reviews also have scattered 1 star reviews talking about the nozzles not being the correct height, causing leaking around the heat break. Most nozzles are made with creality in mind it seems. So i definitely wanted to find nozzles that fit Anycubic correctly. Im getting ready to attempt to unclog my stock nozzle. Pretty sure its clogged (im new to printing) all of the sudden my machine doesnt want to put down filament for several first skirt/brim lines. And worse, im getting nasty stringing (mostly on supports but its affecting my prints) that i cant dial out. Ive been messing with retraction distance/speed, wipe distance, coasting distance, and i have retract at layer change off.
If you are using the 0.4 nozzle standard with the printer and that is happening maybe your heat it to high or to low. What temp do you print and also what type of filament. I am not so experienced with printing too. But a lot of trouble shooting videos and problems with my printer Builds experience. After you fix them of course. But tell me what type of filament you are using (abs,pla,tpu) and at what temp do you print at. And are you using the standard 0.4 nozzle? Would love to help
@@VitalikHobbies thank you!
-Machine: Mega X
-Yes, I am using the stock Anycubic
.04 Nozzle.
-Material: PLA+ from IIID MAX
A lot of comments on the FB listing referred to needing a slightly higher temp than normal for this brand.
I had the Anycubic white filament tuned very well. And I printed it at 200 with a 205 initial layer on a 60° bed. I didn't want to change temps on all my gcode files so I tested the new filament (iiid max) at 200 and it printed. But I guess I wasn't seeing these issues. The issues are the worst when I'm printing a 30mm mini fig. But if the figure doesn't need much support, and is more curved, like squirtle, the prints come out butter smooth on the actual figure. Support is still janky.
Okay so I moved my temp up from 200/205 to 205/210 but haven't noticed too much of a difference. A lot of people on the FB page printed at 210-215. The store owners also suggested a higher temp like that. I guess I just wanted to stay away from going that hot. I had learned that for miniatures the lowest temp you can print at is ideal.
Now my prints are very stringy and the worst part is the weird thicker strands. Hard to explain. But they slowly appear due to the nozzle having excess filament and when it travels it hits the same spot, smearing a bit of filament there and causing these random little towers of filament appear all over the supports.
Also on the FB page for this brand, people including the company mentioned that you may want to dry the filament out. I don't know what effects happen if a filament has moisture in it still.
Currently printing a part. More slight setting changes. But I can see that it's not a clean print. This is after I ran the nozzle cleaning needle up into the nozzle a few times which didn't seem to pull out anything.
If my temp isn't hot enough, will that cause the filament to be too stringy/more stringy than normal?
@@VitalikHobbies I just read something on reddit about too low of a temp can cause stringing.... Maybe I'll try upping my temp before I swap back to the Anycubic filament
Cool vid thanks. I tried to change to .2 but it wasn’t going through the nozzle. Have you ever changed to .2 on this machine? Worked with .3 though
Thanks, so to change to a .2 you’re gonna need a direct drive setup. It’s gonna need more force to push it through the smaller nozzle diameter. You can try increasing the heat and it might work. For me .2 is a little too small and print times will take a lot longer
@@VitalikHobbies ah makes sense. I tried higher temp but didn’t work. Thanks for the info. I’ll prob just stick with .3. Figured I’d just print smaller things haha
Can you do this without taking off the protection on the printhead?
protection you mean the silicone sleeve? if yea it is just easier but make sure to heat up the nozzle to 210
If you mean the metal case, not easily. It was hard to get a channel lock and wrench without removing it today that I just took it off. Took a few tries to get the nozzle off as it cools VERY quickly. When in doubt, heat up, power off n disconnect power.... power up..heat..
I got two printers one more than you hahah 😢❤
I will get there buddy👍
@@VitalikHobbies bet you can 😂😂😂❤❤❤