Fixing a Clogged Hotend on my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2024
- Thank you for watching. If you feel I’ve done something incorrectly please let me know. This is the first time I’ve had to fix a clog on a printer like this. My previous experience is with the old style CR10 hotends and this one was slightly more complicated than those ones.
I mentioned in this video that I would prefer an all metal hotend/heatbreak. When I asked for assistance finding such a thing in one of the Anycubic groups for this printer it seemed to spark a heated debate between which is better.
#3dprint #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinted #anycubic #anycubickobra2 #3dprintinglife #anycubickobra2max
you can disassemble the "head" without removing it. unscrew the two screws at the back, and carefully remove the plastic casing and you get access
I feel your pain when you sighed. Im having my first extruder clog in the Kobra 2 Max after just having gotten both my Bambu Lab P1S printers up and running again. If it's not one thing, it's another.
everything cleared up after i changed the filament. i will let you know if it comes back.
This was an incredibly helpful video. Thank you. I can pull stuff apart easy enough but always concerned if I'm doing it right. It took me awhile to find it but it earned you a subscriber. Again thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
@@Extreme4x4Dude I literally just finished putting it back together and it works great. My boden tube came out with no problem. my clog was at the tip of that metal tube the boden fits it. The only real "critic" i would give about the video, now that I did mine, is to make sure that the metal tube, that holds the boden tube, isn't threaded all the way down. I found that the tip wouldn't thread in all the way because it bottomed out on that metal tube. I didn't take pics of that part so had to go back into your video so see what the spacing was on that collar of the metal tube was from the hot end they both thread into. But again, overall it was immensely helpful.
thanks for the great video! just had my first clogged tip and had no idea what i was doing lol. heating the hot end up before screwing the new tip in help loads.
Happy it helped.
I 3D printed for 3 years and I can sympathize with you on the whole one printer down one working issue. That was always my situation and was so agonizing!!! It's why I got away from printing . I became very good at repairing them but also got tired of it. I was just about to buy this printer because of the great reviews then I saw this and brought me back to all those repairs I had to do. Now I'm leaning towards not returning to this . Plus I'm more busy now then I ever was before with work . Anyway great video .. I agree there should not be a Bowden tube there that was stupid or cheap of anycubic.
i received my kobra 2 max 4 days ago and i had to change the heat block along with the Bi-Metal heat break throat.
I simply swapped the heatbreak for a bi-metal heatbreak for CR6. This also lets me use standard volcano nozzles. I've got well over 10kg of filament through it and haven't had a single clog or blockage.
That’s my next upgrade for this printer. Two clogs with Bowden tubes already. What a stupid design.
@@Extreme4x4Dude i pulled the upper tube and only have a 2" section feeding into the top of the extruder as a guide and i moved the filament holder to the top of the gantry... makes it soooo much easier to work with.
Doing this immediately now that mine clogged lol
Great video! Forgive me for my bad English! I've a Kobra 2 and I bought Bowden PTFE tube Capricorn to replace it with the old one. I want to change also the Bowden tube in the heatbreak with Capricorn PTFE, but I'd like to know what is its exact lenght to be cropped. Could you kindly provide me with the length of that small piece of Bowden tube? Once I have inserted it, does it continue to move like on the video? How did you block its movement? Thanks!
Had the same trouble with the kobra max, I replaced the heat break throat with a Copper Titanium Bi-Metal Heat break Throat from amazon and no more clogs. The teflon tubing on the old throat goes all the way through and and fits tight against the hot nozzle and burns. the bi-metal throat that I replaced it with, the teflon tubing only goes 4.5mm into the throat where it's not as hot. You will have to change the length of the teflon tube to fit. If you don't change it, you will have to keep the hotend temps lower.
@Patrick-dr1xb can you post the link to the one you bought? There are a lot of them on amazon
I just did the same thing haha, first clog on my plus. Of course Anycubic was sold out of new nozzles. I purchased a 20 nozzle set of different sizes. Hopefully will work haha. Should know tomorrow
I purchased some off brand nozzles for both printers. They seem to work fine. Just read the reviews and make sure other people are having decent luck with them before you buy anything.
Change the heatbrake for a viper one. The fit perfectly and allow you tu use standard volcano nozzles.
Omgs , Prays this doesnt happen to my Plus !! but at least i know where to look to see how to fix it !! 😀
It just happened to mine after solid 8 prints. My prints did great though
I see where there are some replacing the blue tube with bimetal or ceramic mods, is this something you have done since
I have in fact switched to a bimetal neck for this hotend. It seems to be working but those blue tubes can sometimes last a month or so. Lol
@@Extreme4x4Dude Awesome thank you for responding
had a clog in my Kobra 2 Max also, could not easily get the clogged nozzle clean and out of frustration just held it with pliers over the flame of the gas stove in the kitchen and to my surprise the PLA oozed out. after that i could use the cleaning tool provided by Anycubic. Had some issues with the Kobra 2 Max but most of it was on me to be honest and after the firmware update at least the mid print stopping is over.
Unfortunately clogged nozzles are part of 3D printing. 😞 Glad the firmware update helped though. 😁👍
hey i got my kobra 2 max(my first 3d printer) and i use the default setting from anycubic's slicer since I don't know a lot of stuff for now, i use esun pla+ do you have any settings that you recommend to me? Also, the default speed is probably at 300 without changing something, right?
I print on my AK2M at 250-300mms. My PLA temps are usually 220/60. Printing some calibration tests would probably be in your best interest though. That will really help you dial in your filament settings to your printer.
@@Extreme4x4Dude thanks a lot, btw every other setting on default, right?
I just posted a shorts video that might help you better.
I’ve had the little Bowden tubes degrade and wear out twice now on this printer. Save yourself a headache and buy a Capricorn Bowden tube to put in there. The spare ones that come with it are garbage
That was what I used this last time. I’ve melted the two that came with the printer. Hopefully the Capricorn one works better.
Very good video =), is there any way to upgrade to an all metal hotend?
I believe so and I’m looking into that right now. 😉👍
Did you find a metal solution? I basically made this exact video last night but mine clogged again because I reused a semi damaged tube.@@Extreme4x4Dude
So is Kobra 2 max not worth it? It’s on sale right now only for a few hours left, and I’ve been contemplating this whole weekend wether to buy it or not.
I’m coming from an Ender3 v2, so I don’t mind the tinkering
I personally still like it more than my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max.
I have the Kobra 2 plus and I have a clog as well. Clogs happen on Bambu and Prusa as well. I would purchase another Kobra even after this clog
Yep clogs are a part of 3D printing.
do you have the same process with the elegoo, does it have a boden tube? ty
I believe that it does.
@@Extreme4x4Dude so if the will not
extrude filament at all it has to be changed? would you do a stripe down on elegoo hotend video . thanks
@@Extreme4x4Dude elegoo neptune 3 does the neptune pro 4 has a metal one as far as what the schematic shows. great times in this video anyway 👍🏻
Good video really...dizzy.
looks like you still have a partial blockage....filament should exit straight down... even at the end it is exiting just slightly to the left...
Will I lose my warranty after this repair?
That’s a good question. I wouldn’t think so because a clogged hotend is fairly common but if it did void the warranty than Anycubic products wouldn’t be worth buying. I need to look into this more to give you the correct information.
change heatbreak to bi-metall or titan on V5AC, and forgot this as nightmare
I agree! I’m just looking for a good option to be able to do so.
Had my kobra 2 max a week and it clogged lol I'm ordering the cr 6 bi metal off amazon and gonna try that right away lol
I use the clog rod and cleaning filament. Takes 5 minutes
That didn’t work for this clog. The cheap stock Bowden tube melted and clogged the neck. I love when just poking it fixes a clog.
i have the kobra 2 plus but sometimes is say the heatbed issue stop print ,clooged ,and not print resume function if power fail this printer not reliable at all! waste you time and filament trow in the garbage! creek noises come from the belt or the motors also
haha glad im not the only one finiding these kobra 2 maxs absolutely trash
This video is from January but I am running into the same problem again this week with this printer. I have some bimetal necks coming in that I plan to test and see if it fixes anything.
@@Extreme4x4Dude oh man ive got 2 kobra maxs 2s and 4 kobra maxs and the 2s seem to clog every 2nd roll of filment. the kobra 1s are way better designed. ive actively pulled the blue tubing out via the hotend cause it clogged and literally forced bits of all the way through. fully changed that hotend with a whole new one setup from ac and 1 week later same issue today ( i caught it b4 it got pushed into the hotend this time it seems and cleared a clogged peice that went all the way to just under the extruder).
im so close to returning both my 2s as they have to have a alot of issues ill get clean prints until about halfway up in height then it seems to go to shit no idea why. either it knocks off the piece every single time or u can see where the extruder is under preforming suddenly and struggling to get filament out (can see clear signs of underextruding at height) for mine anyway
@@Extreme4x4DudeDid it work? I have the same problem and think about buying directly a bimetall one instead of replacing the tube with a Capricorn one…