ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- I got a BLtouch Clone and a SKR Mini E3 mainboard to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro
Intro: 0:00
Changing the Mainboard: 1:34
SKR Mini E3 v1.2 Wiring Diagram: 3:43
Sensor Extension Cable: 5:07
Wiring Sleeve: 10:57
Connecting Sensor to MainBoard: 12:39
Senor Wiring Diagram: 13:25
Installing Sensor Mount: 16:33
Downloading Firmware: 18:25
Verifying Installation: 19:32
Setting Z-Offset from LCD Screen: 20:46
Setting Z-Offset from Terminal: 24:10
Setting Start Code in Cura: 30:57
Closing words: 34:15
SKR mini E3 v1.2: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
BLTouch Sensor: www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFV2TOS/
Clone: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
M2 + M3 Screw set: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Dupont Kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Ribbon Cable: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Marlin GCode Reference:
marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/
Ender 3 BLTouch Mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:300...
Cura Start Code:
pastebin.com/JCh4fLiu - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
So here we are three years later and your video is still doing good. I was going to buy a new printer when on a whim I decided to dig out my first printer. My gen 1 Ender 3. It had the old 8-bit board in it and it was annoying as heck to level but years ago I bought a BTT SKR Mini V1.2 and never installed it. Well, over the last week I decided to install it (since I already owned it) and it makes a huge difference to the printer. I then bought the knock -off BL-Touch for $15 from Amazon and printed out a full shroud with integrated sensor arm and mounted it up to the printer. I carefully followed your directions and BINGO, I now have an auto leveling quiet second printer. Thank you for this video. It saved me the purchase of anew printer and brought my first ever printer up to date (well, as good as it needs to be).
My tip is that I extended the loom by soldering the short loom to the long loom and shrink wrapped the individual leads so extending it by about 6 inches which really made installation easier.
Also, I bought a bunch of super cheap (less than $2 each) LM2596 buck converters from Ali Express and installed them in line with the various fans to slow them down. It makes a huge difference to the overall noise level and it doesn't hurt performance.
The new 3D-Touch V2 has the loom plugged into the back of the tiny PCB so it makes installation a whole lot easier and it's been working perfectly on my E3.
I love that everybody in the community has something to offer. You my sir just got a sub and a like. This video helped me finish sitting up my bltouch and SKR Mini E3 v2.0 .
Great video, really helped me out. I've watched a bunch of them by this point and you had exactly what I needed. Well done and thanks!
Great to hear!
That was actually a very well done video, very thorough and very precise, I like the tone you used throughout the video it made it very easy to follow, I can tell you put a lot of work into it and it showed, you should definitely consider doing more as you certainly have a knack for it and you are certainly knowledgeable.
I have ordered the skr mini v2 that I will be fitting into an Ender 3 pro and using the bltouch from trianglelab, hopefully the wiring is the same as the 1.2 and I can refer back to this video.
Thanks for making this.
Thanks a lot for the encouraging words, I really appreciate it. I hope your v2 install goes well!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for as I am having the exact same setup. You even covered the "cannot move Z axis lower than 0"-problem that I had. Thanks a lot. This help so much setting up my Ender 3 Pro with BLTouch and SKR E3 Mini. Thumbs up!
Thanks! I'm glad the video was helpful.
How did you fix this problem?
fantastic video love the detail
Great video! Well explained everything. I l like the timeline
For anyone wondering what the white clip in connectors are called that connect to the SKR Mini board they are the JST-XH connectors. Cheers for the vid it helped me out. 😊 Good shout about using the male to male pin to easily unplug the BL touch I didn't realise you could do that (newbie to electronics).
Great video dude, I just received my bl touch clone and should soon get my SKR Mini E3 v1.2 so i plan to make the same upgrade to my ender 3 :)
Nice! Good luck with the upgrade!
I just got the exact setup, can't wait to get it to setup.
v1.2 can be had for about half the price of v2.0 as of today so if you aren't looking into new features in 2.0 you can save some money there as well.
That's an excellent point about cost-value.
thank you for this video i love you
finally after 3 days of searching and trying to compile different versions or opinions, one video from another TH-camr has helped finally and it works, I'm so happy :)
what youtuber did you watch I'm struggling a alot :(
Great work
Excelent video. Now I Will set mine. I miss where have to place the bltouch X and Y position offset? If is requiere. Thanks for share.
Had mad "thats what she said" moments!
Do you know of a video that shows you how to do the firmware part? I don't know how to open the firmware, how to install it, etc. I'm completely green when it comes to the firmware modification part.
Had to replace the board, due to blown stepper controllers. Luckily, had a spare, and the replacement was transparent, due to identical hardware (SKR Mini E3 V1.2). Sadly, the V1.2 are no longer available, and you're obliged to buy V2.0. Apart from obvious firmware change, is the switch to V 2.0 of that SKR Mini E3 also transparent ?
Great video 👍 however i hope you can help me? I bought a new ender 3 and did not turn it on. I upgraded to a bigtreetech skr mini e3 v1.2 and installed a BL touch. I then watched this video and could not find the same file you showed on github. Also when i plugged in my printer and setup the isp USB to my PC the did not recognise the USB but had other USBs when attached. My printer fans were on when switched on but also tested previously to see it started up correctly when installed and no display. I assumed this was due to not having installed the firmware. Any tips? Advice? Links? Will be much appreciated to help me get my printer to print perfect models in future 😊 I am determined! But need some guidance and help from experienced persons
Thank you. this is one of the best helpful video i have seen for Bltouch. #Subscribe
Precise and to the point You are awesome. Thank you very much.
Glad it helped!
Hello! Great video, thank you for sharing. I'm having issues uploading the firmware.bin file. Not sure why is not working.
I have a lit led in the board and the fan starta and shut of in a sec.what is the problem helpt hanks
Great technical video, well presented,, clear and not to techi and amazingly helpful for the mewbs like me. However Tim, i have a couple of questions if you would be so kind to try to answer please?
I already have a SKR Mini 1.2 board fitted, and added a 3D Touch very similar to your video, however i choose to keep my Z end stop and attach the black and white lead to the Probe connection on the board. So that is the only difference i can see.
My question is...When i auto home, it still homes at the default front left position, and not in the middle like yours shows, so i am not sure if i am doing the Bed Levelling correct. My Z offset is -1.65. Why does my Auto home still go to the default position? i have flashed the firmware twice now to make sure, and i am using the correct BL Touch Firmware.
also i read somewhere that you had to put in a command 'M420 S1 ; Load Saved ABL Mesh for BL Touch' after the G29, is this correct?
Thanks for your input.
If you keep the Z-Stop then your printer will continue to use it to set the home position by going all the way left to the X-Stop, all the way back on the Y, and all the way down on the Z-Stop. If you have the 3D touch connected to the Z-Stop, the the probe has to go to the middle of the bed in order to home the Z point instead of relying on the microswitch for the Z-Stop. This is why the behavior is different.
M420 S1 enables the printer to use the bed leveling mesh during prints. G29 enables this at the end of the bed leveling automatically, so you do not need to add M420 S1, if you already have G29. If you don't want to do the bed leveling process every time, then you would use M420 S1 after G28 instead. This is necessary because G28 autohomes and resets the bed mesh.
@@dorkytim Huge thanks for clearing this up fir me Tim. I will watch out for you next tutorial video.
Thanks again for your help.
Tim, if for some reason my Ender 3 version needs to have the x axis reversed direction and the *.bin update is already compile. there a g code or a way to modified?
Hm, you usually have to set that in the firmware. I am unsure if there are slicer settings that will invert the x. Another thing I've seen others do is flip the pins on the motor, but I think it's easier just to configure it on the firmware unless the printer was setup incorrectly in the first place.
Im constantly changing my mind on whether I should get the v1.2 or 2.0 because I don’t think I need the extra features in the 2.0 honestly the only reason to upgrade the board is for the silent stepper drivers. VERY GOOD VIDEO BTW!
I agree, the most sought after benefit on the board is the stepper motor driver upgrade. It really makes a huge difference in noise and a bit useful in reducing salmon skin. As for the new v2.0, I think the biggest difference maker is if you plan to go dual Z motor upgrade. Otherwise, the 1.2 holds up just fine.
DorkyTim I’m gonna get the 1.2 if I ever was going to upgrade to dual z axis motors I would buy a adapter that bigtreetech also sells
If you don't mind the noise and manually leveling the bed now and then, the ender 3 pro runs flawlessly. With the new ender 32 bit boards, you really don't need any of this.
Planning to install bltouch after I get some wire extensions. So just to confirm, the firmware changes the autohome to approximately in the center of the bed or do we have to do that ourselves?
The firmware with bltouch enable with zhoming will autohome to the center.
Do you need to manually level the 4 corners of the bed or just the center for the z-offset, if you have ABL?
You should at least level the bed manually once after installing auto bed leveling. This is because auto bed leveling can only help you so much, and won't be helpful if the bed is super uneven. After that, then you should be good for the most part.
@@dorkytim Thanks Tim. That's exactly what I've done and I'm very happy with the results. And thank you for sharing the start GCODE which works very well.
Great video. But you used a configuration.h file for Marlin that's allready edited with 3D touch enabled. I want to use the latest version of Marlin. How can I do that, because this one they used is the 2.o.x bugfix. But that's not the last one, is it?
I recently made a video to demonstrate how to build your own version based off the latest repo. th-cam.com/video/j6cgUwNA17k/w-d-xo.html
Did you not have to mass with the offset of the x-axis with this mount and the firmware you installed?
I did not have to adjust the x or z offset. The mount I used was fairly standard. It's also not too difficult to adjust the y and x offset. You just need to ensure your nozzle isn't going off the bed.
Bro show me a video on how you install this on Ender 3 V2
Hi can you please help me with this for ender 5? My bed keeps hitting the nozzle on autobed leveling :(
I'm not too familiar with the ender 5, but if your nozzle keeps hitting your bed then there are a few common possible reasons.
1. Firmware is not set to use z-homing and you don't have a z stopper.
2. The touch probe, when fully extended, is shorter than the nozzle and isn't getting triggered correctly to sense the bed.
3. Incorrect wiring or hardware issues causing the touch probe to not deploy or sense properly.
HI Tim, Great video explains a lot. I am real new to all 3d printing but, I have managed to upgrade my E3 Pro a lot. I've had the BlTouch working great. Last night I installed the E3 mini with TFT touch. I have tried both firmware files Z-homing and Bl Touch and both will crash into the bed when i auto home just at the different areas on the build plate. I am using the probe in the z-stop connection not the Probe connection as you are. I am just learning Gcode and not that proficient at it to compile my own firmware yet. I am getting the .bin files from Github v.1.2 on Big Tree I believe it is Marlin 2.0.53. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
It sounds like your probe isn't triggering. I would first check that the bltouch is mounted at the correct height so that the probe is shorter than th nozzle when retracted, but longer than the nozzle when extended. Next, I would do a double check that the wiring is secured.
A quick test is you use your finger to press on the probe as it goes down to confirm its triggering correctly and stopping the downward motion.
@@dorkytim I will check, I noticed now the red light is constantly on and it will not retract on it's on. I think it's firmware
The LED light being on is expected, but what do you mean "it will not retract on it's on"? Are you able to do a probe test?
@@dorkytim yes, I cannot get it to do test at all it's just lit up. I've tried to load firmware again but I don't think it's taking
Were you eventually able to figure out the issue?
where dose the resistor go
Thank you for this video. I followed most if it except that i used the probe slot in the board instead of z end stop. When i press home, it goes to 0,0,0. Then when i try probing (with z offset at - 1.85), there are certain points that i get a "probing failed" message. And upon checking, the nozzle presses down on the nozzle before the probe is deployed. Is there a fix for this?
Try adjusting your mount that holds the bltouch. Usually this happens when your probe is mounted too high or too low. It should be well above the nozzle when retracted and we'll below the nozzle when extended.
@@dorkytim thanks. it was too high so i adjusted the mount. Now my problem is i cant seem to get the z offset right.
It can take some time and you might have to adjust the offset a few time. After you get it close, try starting a quick first layer print test and seeing if you need to add +/-0.05mm to your offset until you get the desired results.
please make a video on how to create custom firmware using visual studio and platformIO. I tried doing it but my code keeps failing when i try to compile.
It's in the works!
Hey... in the link for the BL-Touch mount... which file did you print. There's 2 versions. one of which is 3mm longer
I believe it was this one
ender3-bltouch-mount-4b-3mm-lower
@@dorkytim That'll explain you're Z-offset.
I printed the normal one, but the pin was always higher than the nozzle.
So I put a 3mm nut between the BLtouch and the original mount to space it down enough. And my Z-offset now is -1.40
Hey Tim: based on your recommendation, I would like to try controlling the Ender 3 Pro with this upgraded SKR E3 mini V1.2 board via Octaprint on an arduino setup.
However, unlike USB connection to the stock Ender 3 Pro board which was transparent, I've experienced hours of frustration trying to control this new board. Their Maple (USB)Drivers are goofy, to say the lease and you had to go though all kinds of contortions to just install their digitally unsigened drivers. I have still not succesfully connected to the SKR E3 min v1.2 via USB. If I set up OctaPrint, will it be any easier ? If not, any secret on how to successfully get USB connection to this otherwise nice board ?
I never dealt with their drivers, but that sounds like a nightmare. With my octoprint setup, I'm using a raspberry pi 3b with the micro usb connection to the mainboard, just like it was with stock. It sends the data signal through serial, so there shouldn't be any issues with driver compatibility as long as you are sending at a baudrate 115200 or greater.
OK. So if I set up a raspberry pi with octoprint, connected via usb, no problem despite the mainboard NOT being the stock ender 3 pro ?
Yeah it works great. A raspberry pi 3B or 4B with octopi loaded and it's good to go. It'll also have WiFi and allow for adding a web cam and other neat features. Well worth it.
Great. Recomendations for a printed Raspberry pi case from thingiverse for the ender 3 pro ? ?
There's so many great cases on thingiverse. The one I use personally, is actually a mix. I used the bottom of this one, www.thingiverse.com/thing:1956623/files, and the top from this one, www.thingiverse.com/thing:3616207/files
I downloaded the bltouch for z homing have the probe in the right spot on the board but don't have bltouch option on my printer.. great video btw
Did you ensure that you renamed the bin file to be just "firmware.bin" and verified that your board was updated successfully? There should be options for controlling bltouch probe on the LCD.
@@dorkytim I don't remember what that issue was I solved that. Now my only issue is getting my offset set.
@@dorkytim OMG this comment saved me from giving up! Thank you for this awesome video! I have finally figured out my issues
thanks again for you thorough reviews and instructions. For the Thingiverse reference to a mount, which of the two mounts did you actually use: the ender3-bltouch-mount-4b-3mm-lower.stl or the ender3-no-support-bltouch-mount-4a-fixed.stl ?
The one I used in this video is the ender3-no-support-bltouch-mount-4a-fixed.stl. It should fit with the stock fan cover fine, but double check that the nozzle is lower than the probe when it's retracted, but longer than the probe when extended.
my ender 3 has a print resume function, if power cut / load shedding happens.
I want to know- After this modification / firmware update = will the print resume function still work after power cut !
It should still retain those functions as long as they are not disabled in the firmware.
thanks for your reply
my motherboard is this one: www.powerplanetonline.com/cdnassets/placa_base_impresora_creality3d_ender_3_pro_01_l.jpg
I am confused about the wiring. going to connect the
2 pin: black & white with z end stop
3 pin: green on ground, red with 5v, orange with signal
where am i supposed to connect the orange wire ? THANK YOU...
Hello, I have trouble on the part were you set the z offset, do you have a download link for the modified firmware?
1. Modified Firmware: use the one provided by bigtreetech: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware . Make sure you choose the right one for your Model and connection method and rename it to firmware.bin. Copy to micro sd card, put it into the printer and start the printer.
2. Start the printer,
3. Go to motion-> bed leveling -> level corners
4. Go to Motion-> Bed leveling. Set Z offset to something like -2.5 mm.
5. Go to Motion -> Auto Home. Go to Motion -> move axis -> z axis. Lower by 10 mm.
6. Put a piece of paper under the nozzle. Lower the nozzle by .1 mm until it hits the paper. Write down the number in the display (example: + 0.85) if you rech 0 and the nozzle is still not low enough go back to point 4 and set the number lower to 3.0 or more
7. go to motion - > bed leveling. Set Z offset and add your written down number to the one already in there. Look for +/- ! In my example it would be -2.5 + 0.85 = - 1.65.
8. Auto Home and try point 5 and 6 again again. If it's not like you want it adjust the offset slightly until you are satisfied.
@@MrSpirit99 On number 4 I cannot set the z offset to something less than -1.000 and on number 5 I cannot lower the nozzle less than 0. Do you have any fixes for that?
@@thegrubb-2248
If you use the marlin version from bigtreetech it should set max and min z offset to at least 3 mm?!
that you can't lower the z axis below 0 is working as intended (soft stops).
TO DE
Connect the with the USB cable to a computer, use the Octoprint Terminal (or any other terminal tool) and send M211 S0 that deactivates them.
Description here
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3700194
Second way to do it is to compile your own firmware and set
check these lines that they look like this
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
this video explains adjusting really well.
th-cam.com/video/Q5M7DvdMcew/w-d-xo.html
If those lines in marlin aroudn line 820 in configuration.h look like that then I would need see the code to see why you are limited to 1
So BL Touch Firmware works with the 3D Touch? I'm looking at adding the 3D Touch to my Ender Max :)
Yes, I bought one and it didn't work, but the second one worked, so it's a bit iffy.
Thanks for the clear info. I have installed SKR MINI E3 V2.0 and 3D Touch V3.0. Updated the firmware from github. However probing is not working. Always it shows probing failed and stays probing 1/9.
Also when I give Auto Home, the head is not coming to the center like in your video. When I give G29, the head moves to X stop and stays for few seconds and shows probing failed.
Could you please help me on this. You are my last hope and spend almost a day to correct it but in vein. Thanks in advance.
You have to set a x offset in the Marlin settings
I'm having trouble with my bltouch when I auto home, it won't deploy. any tips on how to fix it?
If your firmware is correct then there should be a BL touch menu option. In that menu there should be options to deploy and retract the probe to test if it's working properly. If it is not then you may have a configuration issue, a wiring issue, or a hardware issue.
Hi,where can I find the base of the 3dtouch?,I want to print it.Thank you.
I should have it linked in the description, but I'll post the one I used here.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003725
Thanks for the video. but I'm having a big problem with the bed leveling it probes in the middle but in the first corner never touch the bed... I have been reducing the bed size to 225 change the probe setting and nothing make it to probe the first corner... any sugestion?
So when you run the ABL with G29, it goes to the front left spot and doesn't go towards the bed, or it goes towards the bed, but the probe doesn't touch the bed?
@@dorkytim it goes towards the bed, but the probe doesn't touch the bed
Could be a few things, like bad firmware, sensors not triggering, miss wiring, but really can't be sure with only this much info. I recommend connecting a terminal to the printer, using octoprint or another software, and seeing what the output is after G29 to see if it's a problem with the probe or sensor, there should be some response messages that'll give some more clues. If you are using BLtouch v3+ , definitely make sure you are on the latest firmware since there have been some known problems with the software not playing nice.
@@dorkytim This is what I'm getting [ERROR] Error:Probing Failed
or let me know what else info do you need. and by the way thank you for the great video and I hope you get more suscribers... I'm your 12 ... jeje
Thanks. Your video helped me install the thing and it works kind of ok. I have one question though - how does the firmware know the distance between the hotend and the probe? Are there some standard values baked in the firmware or can I change that? I use different cooling and I think my probe has different offset from the nozzle than yours. Can I configure that?
This is what the Z offset is for. You have to adjust this value to get the right distance and ultimately it affects how close your nozzle is going to be to the bed.
@@dorkytim I meant the distance between hotend and the probe in XY coordinates. But I've figured it out. When you download the firmware, there are configured values X-44 Y-6. I had to set it to X-46 Y-8 using M851. So mine was only a few mm off of the default value so it shouldn't make a big difference, but if someone had a different mount of the probe(worst case on the other side of the hotend), it would be really important to set these values correctly. marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
Ah yes. The x and y offset.
great video keep it up ! my z is showing 12.5 from the bed. how can i fix it
Do you mean 12.5 after you autohome? That should be normal. You need to slowly move down towards the Z0 point without running into the bed and start to adjust the z-offset. This offset is to help determine the distance from the probe and nozzle and you may need to do some test prints to get it just right. Once you do, then you should be fine unless the bltouch or nozzel is moved.
@@dorkytim for some reason no matter what z offset i change it too my nozzle never comes close to touching the bed after auto homing my z. any advice?
The nozzle should not be close to the bed after an auto home. Auto home should park the nozzle around 10mm above the bed. Once the gcode is launched it'll go to the correct z position plus the offset.
Also note, some firmwares reset the bed leveling mesh after an auto home (G28), so you'll have to insure you have command "M420 S1" after the G28 command in your start code to ensure it uses the bed leveling mesh before starting the print. If you already run G29, then you don't have to worry about it because G29 (auto bed leveling procedure) automatically uses the bed leveling mesh it just created.
Hello, i was wondering what do you need and how do yo do for installing the new firmware. Thanks a lot
How do I modify the firmware to edit the soft z stopper? The nozzle is way too high but I can't move the z to negative.
You can send a "M211 S0" GCode to the printer to disable the software endstops and that will allow you to go to the negatives manually when adjusting your Z-Offsets. In the firmware, the setting is coming from "#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS / #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS". For anyone interested, this document from Marlin goes more in dept about endstops "marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/endstops.html".
If your nozzle printing too high off the bed from the start, then there's a few things to quickly check:
1. Check to make sure the X gratuity is tighten so that the X axis is not somehow sagging which messes with your alignment.
2. Your BLTouch mount is secured properly and is in the proper position, not too high or low relative to the nozzle.
3. Even if you think you have configured your Z-Offset correctly, try adjusting the z-baby stepper as you are printing, or adjust the Z-Offset by 0.05mm at a time until your distance is just right. Use a simple bed leveling print to check.
@@dorkytim I was able to fix the z stopper limit and the bed is able to level, but it can never do the 5 1-layer square test correctly. It prints the top left corner and the middle, but once it gets to the bottom left, it starts printing in midair. I tried manually leveling the bed as well, but the same thing keeps happening. I'm also pretty sure my print bed is taller in the middle than in the corners but only by a very little bit. Is this a common problem that I can fix?
Sounds like your bed might be a bit warped. There's a few things to check before going down the glass bed route.
1. Make sure you manually level the bed as best you can. The auto bed leveling can only compensate for so much so you want each point to be at least within a 0.1mm if you can. I recommend getting the bed visualization plugin for octoprint to make it easier to see. If not then you'll just have to rely on the mesh data from the terminal. Run a "G29 T" and make sure those points are as close as possible.
2. Make sure you are leveling the bed while it's at print temperature to avoid deviation due to heat expansion.
3. Upgraded bed springs can really help keep the bed more leveled and avoid further deviations.
4. You can also increase max probe point to 5 and run a 5x5 bed leveling. This takes a bit longer, but might be necessary if your bed warping is too much.
5. A trick some people use is to get a layer of gluestick on the side of the bed that's a little bit too far from the nozzle. This won't work if the distance is too far.
6. Make sure you slicers start code is configured properly so that it's enabling bed level mesh and not resetting it.
7. Upgrade to a glass bed which is more accurately flat. However, you may have to get familiar with using glue stick and alcohol, or adjusting bed temperature to fine tune the adhesion. Not a deal breaker at all since the glass bed will give you amazing first layer results.
@@dorkytim I got it to work!!!! Apparently, the issue was that I used the springs that came with the BLtouch to mount the sensor and that was causing the sensor to go out of wack. Right when I took off the springs and mounted the BLtouch directly to the bracket, it started working great.
That's great to hear. Glad you got it to work.
i need help guys, my 3d touch doesn't seem to go near the bed probe works. it also says home z first?
Is your probe mounted correctly, and is below the nozzle when extended, but above the nozzle when retracted?
Did you use prope port or zstop port for z-homing?
I believe that I followed this video’s instructions however whenever I try to print something it only probes the center. Can someone tell me what I did wrong or how I could find out what to do? Great video by the way.
If you wish to have the printer run the bed leveling procedure before your print, then you need to edit your start code in your slicer to include G29 after the G28 and re-slice your model. Otherwise, the printer will just auto home prior to your print.
Edit: Referring to "Setting Start Code in Cura" at 30:57 of the video.
DorkyTim thank you so much
Installed a skr mini e3 and bltouch on my ender 3 pro and could not get it to work properly. It looked like something wasn't right and the bed was NEVER level. Tried everything, firmware, printer, slicer... nothing.
The problem was that the z axis could move 2 mm on the right side (wheels/carriage not set up properly)
Check if your printer is correctly assembled. Maybe you need less than a week, not like me.
Same
Awesome video btw! I followed your video step by step and everything seems to work fine except for z-offset from lcd. Every time that I offset it and save it, it never saves. I'll hit auto home and it reverts back to the original off set. Any help would be awesome. Thanks a bunch!
Are you sure you are going to option on the LCD that displays the "Z Offset" and then manually changing this value? Then going to either the "Store Settings" or "Save EEPROM" option. Running an auto home should not change this value of the Z Offset, so I want to make sure I understood the steps you took correctly when you said it reverts back to the original offset. If you have a chance to connect it to a terminal from pronterface or octoprint, you can ensure it saves from running the M500 gcode command, and then M501 to makes sure it loaded correctly. It could also be possible that your version of the firmware has saving disable, but I think that is unlikely unless you are playing around with the configurations.
@@dorkytim i have also tried pronterface, entered all the info, then used the 500 and 501 codes and still nothing. i believe my save is enabled because I was able to save my extruder calibration.
Running M851 shows your Z-offset value. Are you saying that this value changes back to you're previous value after auto homing?
@@dorkytim I do apologize, I'm a noob at 3d printing. I'll have to take a few pics soo that you see what I am talking about.
No need to apologise, everyone starts somewhere and we all have the right to learn. I'm just trying to get a complete understanding of the problem you are describing.
OK, let me get this right: Since I bought the
BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2 Control Board 32Bit and the BL Tough 3.1 I don't need to connect the ISP Board to the SKR board and use that Burner ribbon cable that plugs to my PC and run that progisp172.exe file? Or use all that other crap in the box? I appears geared to the Ender original board anyway. Heck even the chip set is not in that setup.
Please confirm: I just install the touch probe, connect to the main board, remove the Z stop, flash the firmware then set about leveling. So far yours is the only video that clearly shows the proper setup.
Yeah, I don't recgonize those steps with the progisp.
SKR mini e3 is a drop-in, plug and play. You shouldn't need any additional hardware. My guess is that those are steps to setup drivers for usb control to connect to your PC. Either way, it's not necessary.
I agree with the steps in your confirmation request.
@@dorkytim Eeek, almost ran my Z through the bed. Forgot to flash the version with the Z stop removed.
!!!
Hopefully you were watching it and caught it in time.
@@dorkytim Oh yes, mash that power button. LOL
Flashed firmware version 2.0.6.1 and all the BL Touch menu items that were there during version 2.0.5 are gone.
I don’t have the bltouch option after I flashed the firmware help please!!!!
If you don't have the bl touch option then you likely loaded the wrong firmware or the firmware didn't load. Did you rename the file to firmware.bin before loading it on the sd card?
@@dorkytim yes and I did the z homing option it still isn’t working
I have problems with the file "firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin", I upload it and the bltouch option does not appear. Instead, the file "firmware-bltouch.bin" works perfectly. Do you think what is happening?
Same here, I have not figured it out yet, just wanted to mention this too.
I found a firmware that is working for my Ender 3. I hesitated a bit on installing an unknown firmware, but it is working. It uses a 7x7 leveling.
github.com/gazcbm/Marlin-2.0.x-SKR-Mini-E3-v1.2/blob/master/CompiledFirmWare/firmware.bin
@@claudefountain2544 Is this firmware designed specifically for the BLtouch installed into the original Z Homing pins?
@@stephenjohnson5899 that's exactly how I have mine currently setup. I am using the same e3 mini board.
Claude Fountain you’re the man. Thanks!!
forgot the board is creality 1,1,4
The new #1 question is why the heck isn't my 3DTouch working!?
How is it behaving?
Great info but it would be easier to listen to without so many "uhs"!
Thanks for the feedback! I'll work on reducing the "uhs" and being more clear in my future videos.
@@dorkytim It won't be quite so "Dorky" if you reduce the "uhs" offset. You be you. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate this. I too have this same hardware combo, so I'll be attempting to add the 3dTouch this weekend.
you'd THINK they'd have the foresight to INCLUDE the male/male dupont adapters... grrr
my motherboard is this one: www.powerplanetonline.com/cdnassets/placa_base_impresora_creality3d_ender_3_pro_01_l.jpg
I am confused about the wiring. going to connect the
2 pin: black & white with z end stop
3 pin: green on ground, red with 5v, orange with signal
where am i supposed to connect the orange wire ? THANK YOU...