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So here we are three years later and your video is still doing good. I was going to buy a new printer when on a whim I decided to dig out my first printer. My gen 1 Ender 3. It had the old 8-bit board in it and it was annoying as heck to level but years ago I bought a BTT SKR Mini V1.2 and never installed it. Well, over the last week I decided to install it (since I already owned it) and it makes a huge difference to the printer. I then bought the knock -off BL-Touch for $15 from Amazon and printed out a full shroud with integrated sensor arm and mounted it up to the printer. I carefully followed your directions and BINGO, I now have an auto leveling quiet second printer. Thank you for this video. It saved me the purchase of anew printer and brought my first ever printer up to date (well, as good as it needs to be). My tip is that I extended the loom by soldering the short loom to the long loom and shrink wrapped the individual leads so extending it by about 6 inches which really made installation easier. Also, I bought a bunch of super cheap (less than $2 each) LM2596 buck converters from Ali Express and installed them in line with the various fans to slow them down. It makes a huge difference to the overall noise level and it doesn't hurt performance. The new 3D-Touch V2 has the loom plugged into the back of the tiny PCB so it makes installation a whole lot easier and it's been working perfectly on my E3.

So im super late to the show and im having a problem where I dont het the bottom bar to compile my frimware any chance on giving me a hamd with that?

I ordered a noctua 24v fan for my hotand

This was the best video I've seen for troubleshooting bad leveling

@02:20 too close woth ridges right?

Three years later problem is still there 🙁

omg... so the bed leveling precision should be up to 2 points behind decimal... then what about the 3d printers who doesnt have auto bed leveling... thats why its so hard for the beginners..

That was a great video that illustrated the point you were trying to make. I didn't think such a small setting change would make that big of a difference.

why is called butt converter??

Do you have the stl

where do you put buck converter for main board if you get one of those kind of big ones with the digital numbers or w/e?

anyone know if you can fit a 40x20 for main board fan?

This might be a stupid question but can you explain how you converted it from 3 pin to 2 pin?

“Youll have to print something first” Nigger my fans wont fucking work in the first place.

I know this is super late, but thank you so much for this! I'm pretty new to both software development and 3d printing. This is still very useful 👍

Great video bro. I got it to connect it correctly for klipper but works the same seemingly. Thanks!

Tolles video, auch wenn es schon 2 Jahre alt ist, habe mich endlich auch an den Filamentsensor gewagt, mein Board ist etwas neuer, skr Mini E3 V3, und da passt auch mit einem 3Pin Endstop.

what game are you playing? lol

Is 4020 noctua fan is enough to cool down hotend? Some people who use it on some fan ducts say there are some problems, however I feel that the reason is using fan ducts that make everything hoter (more parts, additional blowing fans etc.). Do you have any problems with that setup? - 4020 + this custom housing?

Hi Tim, thanks for the video! That second iteration gave you near perfect adhesion and flow for your print height - fantastic!

I'm sure you know by now that using Part Design and a Spreadsheet are an excellent way to add flexibility to your designs.

How come you are setting the buck converter to 5V for the noctua fans? I thought they were 12V fans and every other video I've watched on this mod has set all buck converters to 12V.

my motherboard is this one: www.powerplanetonline.com/cdnassets/placa_base_impresora_creality3d_ender_3_pro_01_l.jpg I am confused about the wiring. going to connect the 2 pin: black & white with z end stop 3 pin: green on ground, red with 5v, orange with signal where am i supposed to connect the orange wire ? THANK YOU...

my ender 3 has a print resume function, if power cut / load shedding happens. I want to know- After this modification / firmware update = will the print resume function still work after power cut !

J .n

Great visual representation of these issues. very useful

Nice video now to get my bed leveled for my first print

Hello! Great video, thank you for sharing. I'm having issues uploading the firmware.bin file. Not sure why is not working.

Had mad "thats what she said" moments!

Nice content m8. subbed

Not sure if you noticed but normally Marlin is configured so hot end fan starts spinning ing at 50-60 defgrees. With noctua mod and buck converter fan is on from the moment printer is turned on. That's pretty weird - not sure why printer ignores firmware setting for this one

Great video!

Do you know of a video that shows you how to do the firmware part? I don't know how to open the firmware, how to install it, etc. I'm completely green when it comes to the firmware modification part.

Had to replace the board, due to blown stepper controllers. Luckily, had a spare, and the replacement was transparent, due to identical hardware (SKR Mini E3 V1.2). Sadly, the V1.2 are no longer available, and you're obliged to buy V2.0. Apart from obvious firmware change, is the switch to V 2.0 of that SKR Mini E3 also transparent ?

I dont have that filmanet runout code in ym marlin I also dont have the header one you speak off. weird

This seems like a very very bad idea. Those fans DO NOT push enough air to keep the hot end cool. This is going to lead to heat creep and regular clogging of your hot end and nozzle as well as inconsistent extruding. Why do I see this everywhere? These fans were not build for this and just because they're quiet doesn't mean they're good

You helped me a lot bro. Thanks for making this video

how you set the z-offset in printer by a fixed increments?

This vas very informative!

An adjustable roller wheel on the top would be awesome. That way you can make sure the switch triggers.

Thank you - simple and straightforward explanation!

Great visual comparisons! Definitely learned something today to apply to my 3D printer going forward!

To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.

fantastic video love the detail

where dose the resistor go

Has the coolant still held up pretty while? I'm super nervous about going opaque coolant

Has it still held up well?

Great video, I have one quick question though, I have used my same marlin firmware as I have previously flashed to my CR-10, However, after un-commenting a few things to use the EZABL i am now getting this error and have no idea as to why. USE_CONTROLLER_FAN requires a CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN. Define in Configuration_adv.h If i comment all out again, and compile, it compiles fine, what could the issue be?

Great video 👍 however i hope you can help me? I bought a new ender 3 and did not turn it on. I upgraded to a bigtreetech skr mini e3 v1.2 and installed a BL touch. I then watched this video and could not find the same file you showed on github. Also when i plugged in my printer and setup the isp USB to my PC the did not recognise the USB but had other USBs when attached. My printer fans were on when switched on but also tested previously to see it started up correctly when installed and no display. I assumed this was due to not having installed the firmware. Any tips? Advice? Links? Will be much appreciated to help me get my printer to print perfect models in future 😊 I am determined! But need some guidance and help from experienced persons

très bonne vidéo explicative , merci.