Powerstroke 6.0 Electrical System Negative / Grounding Locations
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- This video is about where the critical negative connecting location points are and why they should be addressed.
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
By far the best and most detailed videos …… a ford tech doesn’t have nothing on you ……you would blow there minds
I have a technical perspective, but they have direct experience on me. With a one and only 6.0, I can only relate to the experience of one.
Thank you! I’ve watched your videos (6.0 information) and really enjoy the information.
You clearly have done the proper homework on this subject and those who skip to the end of the video for grounding points are missing valuable information.
My hat is off to you sir! Thank you
Thanks Chip and all you guys. I'm enjoying learning how to do these.
TooManyToys, for me it’s VERY interesting! My 2006 has had the cab off (before I owned it) and I noted a different starting process between warm and cool (SW Florida). No codes. Fuel and oil pressure were ruled out, then I got a scan gauge ll and see my “main” FICM voltage is down a by .8 volt. Batteries and alternator check out. Now the voltage drop check begins.
When I saw your video it confirms I’m not nuts.
As spring settles in I will be able to devote more time to this and will report my findings in a video. I need to learn more about video editing to make a decent video. Thanks again!
Exactly the problem on my 2004 F-350, thank you so much for the video.
This is the most detailed and educational video I have ever seen. Great video.
Thank you very much.
Thanks for taking the time to put this detailed video together! Its helped me a lot
Ahh 2010 those we're the days LOL . Really like your informative videos thanks for sharing, my 2006 F-350 thanks you also.
I love watching your videos. Attention to detail on point
Great Video, now once it gets warmer I can locate and check all these connections. Thanks
Thank you been, and still do have a grounding issue. But at least you showed me really where they are. I have 1999 F 350. 7.3. And will look for additional PCM Grounding.
Unfortunately, I don't have a 7.3L to play with.
Looks like I'm going down the rabbit hole..... Had a hard rain yesterday and drove the truck 3-4 hours. Today no rain and now I have 4 fault codes (B1318, P0276, P0278, P0341) 3 of the 4 (B1318, P0276, P0341) are related to low voltage. I just installed a new 130 amp alternator with the smaller pulley and output at idle is ~14 volts. After the 4 hour driving yesterday and about 1 hour drive time today batteries are reading ~11.3 volts before cranking the engine. I know that anything under 12.6V can harm the FICM. Additionally, about a month ago I had the cab lifted about 6 inches to get the turbo out and install S&B body mounts, so I definitely need to check those flat braided cables.
With the draw of the glow plugs, that's a common voltage before hitting the starter. If you look at some of the graphs when I did alternator testing, you can see how the voltage changes during the "wait-to-start" point to when the glow plugs turn off.
@@toomanytoys Thanks for the reply! As an admission of me not being observant I have seen many of your 6.0 Videos, and have read many of your posts on FTE over the last couple years, but just put it all together this morning as I am reading one of your threads on FTE that all of it was you!
@@toomanytoys I had my engine "bullet proofed" by a local shop about 2 years ago and after I got it back I had 2 dead batteries, and within a month 2 burned (yes burned like scorched) Warren injectors, and have been chasing electrical gremlins since.... I've not taken the truck back to them as they caused more harm to my truck than good and I no longer trust them. After recently having a Cyl. 6 Imbalance code I replaced my FICM harness, VGT solenoid, and cleaned the inner turbo exhaust housing and replaced the unison ring as it had a "keyhole" going on, and did a couple pigtail fixes on some cracked wiring while I had it all apart. I'm at the point right now that I just want to redo as much of the wiring as I can and trying to get the ground issues fixed first.
Awesome video series.. I learned so much and was able to address some issues with my voltage fluctuating after installing the Leece Neville 230A alternator. Checked all the grounds and added some grounds (like the one to the engine from the frame rail on the driver side).. Re-installed the Leece Neville and all is good. Thank you! 2006 F250 6.0 Liter.
Glad it helped, and thank you.
@@toomanytoys Wish my High School and College Physics teachers provided real world examples like this. It would have made learning a lot more fun!
I'm from jersey! Glad I found you! My turner is reading a bad ground. Have white smoke n bad idle. I will check the grounds. Thanks for your effort! I will check back
Have a worked 6.0 with a bad seemingly electrical issue. When driving normal or slow the engine will completely stall and pop back on or stall and have to be restarted as if the battery cable was shorting. When it does this, the dash and engine cut off simotaneously with a glow plug light flash. Replaced icp,ipr, crank and cam sensors, tps etc.. including cam harness. Been to two mechanics specializing in 6.0 to no avail. Truck runs great accept for this. It must be electrical. Everything communicates on the harness and ficm. It was tested while running and driving. Has no codes at all.
Thank you for your help
I had a similar issue with my 2003 6.0 from the day it was new. Hard right turns would stall everything out. The cure was a new engine harness after 135k of it occasionally happening. It could be slow turns or a tight exit off the highway. Putting it in neutral and restarting would work while still driving if it was an exit.
I think the only way of sorting it out is either a new harness or extensive disassembly and inspection. These harnesses have a history of shorting, and the PCM will just shut down when it senses a short or out-of-range voltage. You can play with the sensor and connectors all day long, but if it's in the harness somewhere, it takes an extraordinary amount of troubleshoots.
@@toomanytoys very informative! Might try that out
@@fasturbo7894 definitely a bad harness.
This is vital information you are providing. Totally essential for good maintenance of the Powerstroke 6.0 . What is the gauge and length of your added driver side ground cable? And to what location in the block it goes to ?
That's in the description of the video "2003 Powerstroke 6.0L Battery Cable Upgrade to Balance Battery Life". You can tie into any of the open threads on the driver's side front of the block.
Great videos as always!
Thank you for detail
For my project, they will come in handy, as I move beyond what was detailed in this video.
I bought a decommissioned ambulance, where the seller claimed that the 6.0 was "junk", at 164,000.
By "decomissioned", I mean that they took a Sawzall to most of the wiring.
Now, the entire electrical system is a bit wonky, and, I suspect a bad ground circuit.
Or several, as it is an ambulance, which has many circuits, and no possible body grounds in the rear, which is entirely aluminum.
I wish you luck with that. There is so much add-on wiring to those.
@@toomanytoys dug into it today.
The ground strap from the batteries crumbled in my hand.
Not sure why it got a new starter installed.
But, I guess I'll take it.
$1750, and a ground cable, for a nice 2005 e450 ambulance sounds good to me.
@@Mr.Schitzengigglez New starter because no one looked at the cables; fantastic! Just had a recent forum thread like that.
You take any good deals that come your way. Glad you sorted it out.
@@toomanytoys on top of my last reply.
You ait lying about that, my man! 😂
@@toomanytoys ground strap crumbled in my hand today.
Surprise, Surprise. New one on order.
Gonna improvise tomorrow, because I'll probably be working when the real one gets here.
And, it's "only" a ground.
Very good video sir, thank you
Thank you!
Incredible detail... Thank you !!!!
Do you agree with those that are saying a bad ground is welding the trans pump together in the 5R110W?
No.
Great video
Very professional... well explained. may explain 6.0 ficm problems
Legit info,very informative!!!
Man this was good, 🙌 thanks 🙏 for sharing
Thank you.
Great video!
I really appreciate thank
There are deluxe cable assemblies that include a cable between the passenger positive and driver side positive battery. Do you recommend installing this?
I do; it was my first video. But the one I believe you are thinking of is crazy expensive and wasn't designed for the problem and an electrical engineer would do; it's more bling. The video, th-cam.com/video/a3LO-Kfz460/w-d-xo.html, has at the end the cable sizes you need along with where to get them for the best costs. I had a long debate with that supplier and he added the negative side cables I suggested with the newer kits. The alternator negative cable to the inner fender is also another misstep, it does the wrong thing when the starter is engaged, shown in the later video on grounds.
Where is the link to part 2?
th-cam.com/video/g3Qcgb7wAyc/w-d-xo.html
After that: th-cam.com/video/LWVe_8CQPas/w-d-xo.html
Jack thank you for your reply ref. stock pulley alt. Rapid convert has nice charts ,www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/wire-gauge-chart.html . Also home depot in the plumbing section has nice stainless steel brushes { numerus uses ] with handle .5 .75 and 1.0 in. cut the handle off and now you can use it with cordless drill to get those painted grounding points! thanks again Bob
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Okay moving from your alternator video where you explained how to create a parallel fused "+" feed from your high output 230 amp alt to the + terminal of the passenger battery , I have moved on to these videos. So your response to my comment to that alternator video where I indicated that I plan to do a similar upgrade in alternator, you comment that I should go to 6 ga from the 8 ga as shown at 3:00 min for the passenger battery. I notice that no such 8 ga line exists at the driver side battery (at least not in the circuit map you show just seconds later). Should I add a line 6 ga line or would that not be just overkill? I mean I see no negative consequence to doing that other than creating redundancy. Again, like you, I want the best flow. I plan to check the grounding connections you also highlight in the video and use dielectric grease to minimize oxidation. I am now moving to your next video on wiring ....
I’m combining your three separate comments from the different videos into one video's response.
With a dual alternator setup that was an option for emergency service or high load vehicles, post glow plug use, you should have the combination of both 140 and 110 alternators in play. Those values are at the full cold rpm but would be lower at idle. Both alternators supply the common positive circuit unless someone has modified that. Or, you can have a lower-than-expected current output if one of the alternators is not working.
With all you are doing here, it would not be a bad idea to get a $50-75 clamp-on DC ammeter to check your alternators and any other flow.
While my video was working with a single alternator vehicle, a dual alternator vehicle should have the same negative battery cable on the driver’s battery as the passenger’s. So it should already have a direct connection to the block and an 8ga leg to the inner fender. That should be adequate for a 250a combined dual alternator system. The video showing an additional 8ga added to the driver’s side is again for a single alternator vehicle.
You intend to add a larger alternator instead of the 140a because you are adding a higher load to the vehicle. Many emergency vehicles use the truck frame as the grounding point for their accessories. However, most people, when adding sound amps or, in your case, fans, typically ground to the body tub. And in those cases, increasing the cable between the battery terminal and the body tub should be larger. Two 6ga negative cables replacing the 8ga would be reasonable.
However, I’m surprised your dual alternator setup is not sufficient, so if it were me before I’d be installing a very large alternator, I’d be making sure both of the existing alternators are working. But instead, it’s not unusual to find the second 110a not working at all, the 140a carrying the stock load.
The two diagrams for a dual alternator vehicle.
www.powerstroke.org/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=960,height=960,fit=scale-down//media/6-0l-dual-alternator-12-6-png.107807/full
www.powerstroke.org/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=960,height=960,fit=scale-down//media/6-0l-dual-alternators-12-6.107808/full
@@toomanytoys Thanks for the input and I do plan to buy the clamp-on DC ammeter to check the alternators. I already spent $600 at two different mechanic shops to check the electrical as I was worried that there was a problem for other reasons and neither said the alternators were bad and one said that the 2nd alternator is separate from the first, feeding the ambo batteries only. The ambo batteries (2 of them, both AGM) are connectable to the engine batteries by way of a cut-off switch by the driver seat. Either way, I plan to check it myself. But clearly, when I am driving down the highway, at working operation temp (~180F), the e-fans kick on. With my Scanguage II monitoring the battery power, as soon as I engage the AC or just the cab blower motor, my voltage starts dropping to below 12 Volts. If I was doing this at night, requiring my truck lights to be on, even greater draw, so much so that my dash's battery warning light turns on (in all situations described, my radio and cameras are off and none of the ambo equipment is on). At that point I am freaking out about the FICM and all the harm I may be doing to the electrical components. So THIS is why I plan to upgrade at least the main alternator to provide a greater buffer because it may very well be that the 2nd alternator is not wired to provide direct power to the engine bay. I will buy the ammeter, check and if it turns out that the lower alternator is busted, I will save money and just buy a replacement Ford or other quality brand.
Aside: my truck does come with a built-in DC voltmeter AND a DC ammeter (analog gauges near the dash) and the latter never does not go north of 140 when I rev the engine north of 3000 rpm. On the highway, I am normally at about 2100 rpm and the gauge just plateaus at 100 amps. So all signs point to only 1 alternator
(
@@alporan9087 It's possible that it got rewired differently than the factory setup. Body builders do their own thing. There is also a jumper in the harness at the passenger inner fender that controls between a single or two alternator system - how the PCM operates.
The ammeter may be only reading one alternator circuit if the builder separated the two alternator outputs. You have some discovery in front of you. If they are and you keep the two alternators separate, then the big alternator as the primary can make sense.
Awesome video. Were you the engineer for this particular model?
Sir. Thanks for taking the time to create informative and useful content. May God bless you and your family in many ways. 👍
I worked for a OE supplier for this vehicle, managing vehicle testing. I worked with Ford, Chrysler, Jeep, Honda, etc on many vehicle platforms, especially Ford - every model they sold.
i like you. very very clear
So can you replace the two braided cables with a 12 gage wire?
You can. The use of braid is in case there are high frequencies coming out of the alternator, but they are also used where flexibility is needed to not break the strands under movement. I replaced the lower cable with standard wire and never had it break, nor had other issues.
@@toomanytoys awesome thanks so much for the reply! 12 gauge seemed so small compared too the braided wire that's there. Thanks again
@@mf8913 Those took some work because they are not listed in the vehicle electrical diagrams. I bought a new cable and checked the strand count and diameter to find an equivalent cable. This was not the company I used back then, but its data is similar. You could go up to 10ga, which would not be an issue to be more comfortable.
Here is an example of what I used:
gacopper.com/braid.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjgbNnZWjsrp6fQXRxBJ5f6_4RLfqX26Q09RNMbPIV2NO6RFR2uiqhBoChy4QAvD_BwE
Hopefully you still go back and check these. Very good video and great electrical knowledge. My question is can I replace a flat braided ground with a actual round cable ground and will it effect my truck in a good or bad way? Thanks in advance for any input you may have.
I do. It can be changed, the braided ones size to a 12ga if I remember correctly. The advantage of the braided cables is they flex without breaking, the bad is they corrode if exposed to a wet environment like under the vehicle. But a normal insulated wire, preferably marine grade tinned should be fine as long as it's not tight.
Thanks for your very informative video. What did you have to remove in addition to battery and battery pan to visualize the grounding point on the passenger side battery cable.
Jesse, right now its hard for me to confirm as I've got my motor out and everything is apart. I remember pulling the CAC tube, battery and battery tray. I had the stator removed for quite some time, but I don't think that would be in the way. I would first pull the battery and tray and see if that gives you a decent pathway.
Thanks for your response. I think I am going to have to pull the CAC tube.
7/16" or 11mm for the clamp nut. Just clean the boot connections well going back on.
thanks
Do you have a video, or know of one that has positive termination locations? I'm replacing battery cables and looking for info
I did not do a video on that. The connections are not as sophisticated. Positive at the alternator(s), positive at the passenger battery, positive at the driver's battery and the final positive at the Central Junction Box.
Toomanytoys i need ur help lol i live in nj my truck just dies while driving dosent happen all the time some time goes a year with out doing it other times it happens 3 times a day lights go off when you plug it into a computer and nothing comes up I've spent thousands of dollars trying to repair this truck Im not even done paying it off yet they gave me a new wiring harness I replace the alternator brand new batteries there's so much Ive did to it I have a list that goes on and on and on I'm beginning to think it's a wiring issue I live in New Jersey would love to have you work on my truck
Jeff, I don't do repairs on other peoples trucks. I'm a retired researcher and not in the retail business. Bad experience doing that in the past. Sounds like a short in the electrics, but that doesn't necessarily mean the harness. You should post to Ford Truck Enthusiasts or Powerstroke.com as there are many who can help. YT isn't a good medium for that.
I’m having electrical issues with my 07 6.0 no one can figure out I need help it keeps drawing batteries even with the disconnects hooked up when you hook power to batteries the radio starts playing and window go up and down and peer gauge lights stay on.
I haven't had to play with the later model trucks, but a lot of the issues you are describing emanate through the gauge cluster in the later years, as weird as that seems. I'd recommend talking to Circuit Board Medics as I know they have solved a number of what you are describing due to a short in the cluster. I've known them to also come back without doing a repair when the cluster assembly didn't need it. They can also troubleshoot over the phone. The gauge cluster ends up being way more than just gauges, for windows, radio ......
TooManyToys thank you very much for this reply ! I know the cluster in this truck is not the original and the cluster does not work correctly it will not read miles on odometer , but the edge cts2 tuner I have on it tracks the mileage correctly they the computer it’s a very difficult thing to understand ! I have tried different clusters and same issues . I have never hooked a battery up and everything power in the truck come on and day to day a battery reads good next day it’s bad and the battery that read goo the day before reads bad 🤷♂️ this things has been bullet proofed new injectors egr delete new built tranny but these electric issues have me exhausted lol
@@matthewdailey8609 I would still talk to them as they have the most experience with cluster issues. Hopefully, all of those clusters have been of the same model year and maybe trim level.
Electrical quirks are very difficult to track down. You need the schematics and a good knowledge of electricity. Not trying to blow you off, but simple issues are easy to solve online, complex, not so much. The simple version of finding a draw is a good ammeter and pulling a fuse, then checking in 20 minutes. You have a cross-functional issue.
TooManyToys thanks brother I appreciate it !
I have a 2004 6.0. When I put a voltmeter to the negative and positive on the passenger side battery I get 14 volts. When I do the same to the driver side it shows 12 and a half. If I take the positive probe put it on the positive terminal in the negative to the block I get 14. Is my driver side battery charging? It seems like it is I don't see a drop in the voltage on the battery. I don't know if that is the correct way to check if my driver side battery is charging. Any input would be right
With 14~ volts, is this with the motor running or right after stopping the motor?
I have this same problem. With truck running one is 14.2 and other is ~12.5. When I shut off, both are ~12.5. When I take ground from 14.2 and run it to the 12.5. the low battery then runs at 14.2. I think the low battery just need to be regrounded.
Approximately how long is the cable that you added from the drivers frame rail to the engine block
24"
@@toomanytoys
Thank you, very thorough with the information and easy to understand