2003 Powerstroke 6.0L Battery Cable Upgrade to Balance Battery Life
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Improvements in the cabling provide a better pathway of current flow so each battery contributes the same amount of current during starting, extending the life of the passenger side battery.
**To Do No Matter What
**
* 8 ga - 24" 1/4" eyelet to 1/4" eyelet; Driver Battery to FICM Ground
* 8 ga - 18" 1/4" eyelet to 1/4" eyelet; FICM Ground to PCM/Systems Ground
(If DIY, best to incorporate both cables into one 6ga eyelet at FICM ground) Do not attempt to increase this over 6ga.
*To Improve Driver Battery Participation* As a supplemental enhancement to existing factory cables
* 2ga up to 1/0ga - 70" eyelet to 1/4" eyelet; Drivers Battery to Passenger Battery (2ga is fine for stock starters and moderate weather, 1/0ga for high amp starters or cold weather)
*1/0ga - 18" 3/8" eyelet to 3/8" eyelet; Drivers Frame Rail to Engine Block (May need to open block eyelet to 7/16" depending on bolting location)
*
Alternator Cable* (15" length can vary on how you want it to lay)
140a Factory works per SAE standards.
Ideal
* 8ga -15" 1/4" eyelet to 5/16" eyelet, alternator to a battery mounted fuse block of 150a
* 8ga - 3" 1/4" eyelet to 5/16" eyelet, alternator to a battery mounted fuse block of 150a
*
Bussmann HMEG Fuse Block Holder (Or your choosing)
* Bussmann AMG 150 Fuse (Or your choosing)
(Go to 230a level if you think you will ever increase alternator size over 140a)
230a
* 4ga -15" 1/4" eyelet to 5/16" eyelet, alternator to a battery mounted fuse block of 250a
* 4ga - 3" 1/4" eyelet to 5/16" eyelet, alternator to a battery mounted fuse block of 250a
* Bussmann HMEG Fuse Block Holder (Or your choosing)
* Bussmann AMG 250 Fuse (Or your choosing)
A discussion of this video can be found at FTE: www.ford-truck...
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
Awesome video, finally someone who knows there is a battery problem with the 6.0.
Dealing with this right now and I've known there is some sort of battery issue. It's below freezing in Wyoming. Just got the truck out of the shop and two days later it was chugging and in a no start condition. I have two brand new batteries on the truck, but noticed corrosion on the passenger side positive cable. The lights flicker at night, especially under load. Great video! Now I have a place to start tracking this down.
Man... I need to make my way through all your videos.... THANK YOU so much for these sir
You are very welcome
here I am having a bad day because I live in Alabama and I don't know what to do with my rusty electrical 6.0L. and this guy is dropping Jedi knowledge about battery balancing. I am so TH-cam smart now!
Your journey, I hope it helped. With you, may the force be.
Good info.
This is out of my wheel house, but i am learning from your excellent explanations and diagrams.
I have lately pondered the idea of adding a extra battery to my regular pickup truck.
I am just starting viewing your videos, so i started with this first one.
Thank you.
Somewhere in this long line of videos I'm producing, I'll have a video of mounting a third battery on the rail. It's what I believe we always should have had.
This was super! I had received conflicting information regarding the battery and alternator cabling for my 2005 Ford F250 with the 6.0. One solution suggested removing the passenger side cable from the negative terminal to the rail, running an interconnect cable between the two battery negative terminals, and then running a second ground cable from the driver side negative terminal to the passenger side fender. While seeking the cabling and a high-output alternator, I found FicmRepair.com. They sold me an HO alternator and their "Complete Wiring Kit" which has all of the cables your mention here, along with a new charge and ground cable for the alternator. Going with the FicmRepair solution does not qualify as "doing it on the cheap." However, for those of us that would prefer to shell out a few bucks and have a kit delivered, with everything taken care of, it is a great option. Thank you for this video as it backs up all of FicmRepair's assertions. I'm really looking forward to seeing my truck crank easier after this.
Yellow Dog Did this kit help?
Have a 230amp Leece Neville and Cabling Kit waiting for me to go crazy installing it as I type. Ficmrepair.com has the stuff, not cheap but good hi end parts for sure
I simply wished to thank you for all of your hard work in doing this exceptional Video. I own a 2003 F350 with the 6.0 - current mileage - 310,000. It's the best truck I've ever owned as opposed to many opinions out there concerning the 6.0. I am still on the original radiator, original starter, and original Alternator, along with many other pieces parts. My interior looks like new - day I got it seat covers, dash cover, and window tint went in. This truck will go to my son when I pass. I'm now one of your subscribers, and hopefully a friend. I live in the extreme heat of the desert. That's hard on Vehicles too. If I can assist you in any way, simply ask.
Garrett Winslow Thanks for your comment Garrett. Yep, they can run well.
Thank you Garrett. The 6.0s can have a long life with a little care and common sense. I screwed up, twice. It appears you've done much better. I applaud you.
This video was awesome my dad told me about the voltage drop. But your spreadsheets were just awesome keep up the good work.!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for your insight, sir. I’ve got an Arizona truck and even it is suffering from the same charging and metal corrosion issues you’ve had. but it is 16 years old. New batteries going in and grounds cleaned/balance cables being added. Much appreciated!!
Great informative video! Thanks so much. People like you make TH-cam great! I am experiencing battery charging issues in my 05 F350 6.0 and will be replacing the battery cable pronto. Thanks again!
Thank- you for the excellent video I was thinking i may be suffering from some grounding issues time to get the old truck a little more Grounded ;)
This guys one smart son of a bitch
Thanks for making these powerstroke vids. Gives me lots of ideas for my truck. I think I'll try this cable, just bought two new batteries and don't wanna drop that money again soon;) . Liked & subbed
Wow! amazing info, thanks for all your hard work, and the videos.
Excellent video, very thorough and informative.
I did this over the weekend...I put the cable I the same spot with bolts from AutoZone and this cable rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F131476899682 from eBay... I removed my air intake and drivers side charge pipe...making getting to that mission on the head easy..cleaned off the factor grounding spot on the frame..reassembled and bam, in business
Really great info. Ready to order my cables thanks to you sir
Thank you, glad I could help.
Do you have the FICM and PCM grounding video that you spoke of?
Sure Ken. th-cam.com/video/LWVe_8CQPas/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jack. Have you upgraded your starter yet? Either the 6.4 or the 6.7. I have since upgraded to the 6.7 starter with great success!
Ed
Ed, I have a 6.4. A while back I did a video about the different starters; it was when I was in an artistic mood. I should redo that one.
Thank You for this Video!
Jack, i have been searching through your battery and grounding videos, in the description of this you say to do no matter what, 8g wire from driver battery to ficm ground, (g101?) Then another 8g wire from ficm ground to pcm ground. (G100?) But then you mention something about combining them to a 6g? Can you please explain this a little better for me please.
Are the two 8g wires you mention from driver batt to the tub ground g100 and then from g100 to g101?
@TooManyToys thanks for the thumbs up to my comment although encouraging I need a little bit more of an explanation 🫠
It's been a while since I made those videos, LOL.
To balance the 6ga positive cable from the battery to the central junction box (fuses), Ford's layout uses the 8ga from the pass battery neg to the inner fender, and then for the driver's battery contribution, the 12ga cable under the passenger and also the 12ga engine to the firewall; it's really a combination of both batteries negative from the engine block. That's weak, especially if the 12ga under the floor is not in great condition.
So it's better to do what they did with the dual alternator vehicles: an 8ga off the driver's battery negative to the body tub. I take that directly to G101 (FICM/PCM). There is another ground for the PCM at G100, which is also the ground for the transmission solenoids and fuel pump. So, I want the voltage to be the same on both sides of the PCM ground connections. You can add another 8ga cable from G101 to G100 to improve that.
The other way to do that, and what I did also, was to have only one lug at the G101 screw, with both 8ga cables connected to a 4 or 6ga lug. Two 8ga won't fit in an 8ga lug.
I don't know if that helped or made it more confusing.
Ok great I ordered the
-72" pos to pos cable 1/0
-18" 1/0 driver frame to engine
-18" and 24" 8g.
I also realized after reviewing your videos last winter when my plow truck kept having low battery's I found a hard break at the lug on pass frame rail. My solution was a cable from the pass battery negative to pass frame rail. However I never repaired the engine to pass frame rail connection. The way I have it now is the engine and frame chassis is independently grounded with their own cable. So therefor I purchased an additional 18" 1/0 cable go from passenger frame rail to the factory engine ground location.
Also both my 12g "bonding" straps have been not attached for about 7 years. I just ordered new ones of those as well.
I could be wrong but i think the bolt holes on the block are 3/8th not M10. I'm bringing mine up too speed now. Do you have an opinion on grounding the transmission? Some say yes, Ford says no but make sure your frame grounds are clean.
I've chased every thread in the block, heads, and rocker box; all are metric. There hasn't been an imperial thread for decades in the OE auto engineering world. You can get a 3/8-16 bolt in for about 4 rotations into the 10x1,5mm until the threads start to jam, and the diameter will be a loose fit. People chase the threads with a 3/8-16, but it's the wrong thread.
The trans is isolated with the spring bushings/seats, shock bushings, sway bar bushings. The only possible path would be the parking brake cable, and if that was carrying current it would weld up like Camaros and Firebirds used to do in the late '70s/early '80s. Adding a ground strap between the trans and frame is adding a path through the trans, not eliminating it.
The discussion is mute if the negative connection at the front bottom of the block is good and kept clean. When it is not, the braided cable under the passenger floor (body to frame) burns up.
@@toomanytoys Thank you for all the knowledge, it's really appreciated.
@@EricThompsonClimber Glad to help Eric, anytime. I answer comments on YT like it's a forum.
I was hunting for a couple of videos that I did 2 years ago when I was having the debate about transmission to ground continuity. Having an engine out made it simple. Round three was where the person said with some resistance I would not get a continuity signal. They are unlisted on this site.
th-cam.com/video/22fYVh42W0I/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/9zn5xCuCScE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/LwcJtAMWOvI/w-d-xo.html
I just got a 240 amp Mechman Alternator, would you recommend I add a (-) 2/0 wire between both batteries as well, to go along with the (+)....
Just thinking it would help the alternator keep the batteries charged up,
I'm going to be running an inverter in the back of the work truck and debating on adding a 3rd battery with a dc to dc charger later on....
So I want my new alternator keeping the trucks batteries topped off all the time.
Whats your take?
I have a whole spool of 2/0 welding cable
If you have a spool of 2/0, sure, in place of the stock cable, sure. But you don't need it.
The battery acceptance rate of a change is at a lower value than it produces for the starter. Individually, for under a minute, they might take up 25-30a if the output is high, but the acceptance charge will rapidly diminish.
My video of my L-N 230a charger shows one time when the glow plugs shut down immediately due to a voltage higher than 14.4. You can see the most that two batteries will take up. This is higher than during a typical cold winter start, as I had battery blankets on, keeping the batteries at ~70ºƒ, where they have a higher acceptance rate.
th-cam.com/video/Pnr1YmAZS0E/w-d-xo.html
Awesome videos. What happens if you run the driver negative to the block first and then the block to driver side frame?
That is actually a better approach, and what Ford did with the dual alternator setup. They use the passenger side negative cable on the drivers side. The premise I was presenting was towards the least cost and easier to do.
Outstanding video!! Subscribed.
Love your videos!
Thank you.
Hi, where can I find the wiring information for my truck 97 f350 7.3 powerstroke that I'm working on, it used to be an ambulance and a lot of the original wiring were spliced to run their equipment
I would hunt on eBay for the original Ford manuals. Secondarily, search online for the 1997 Ford Body Builders Manual. Often you can find data there, which is what some body builders/installers use.
I am writing the resident charging system expert to get your opinion on a new alternator. My stock alternator is not putting out enough juice and I am looking at the Leece-Neevile 230 amp and the Bosch 140 amp that you have spoken about. I can upgrade the factory wiring as well. But i want to ask you what is the best/most effective system? Is the 140 amp enough and would upgraded cables help get more electrons moving? I live in Texas now but am moving back to Colorado soon so it’s colder in the winter but not extreme. I don’t have any additional electrical lights or anything else that uses power. Thank you for your help!!!! I have a 2005 F250 6.0.
Not sure about expert, I just do stuff.
The 140a with the small pulley does everything a stock truck needs. The most demand is within 90 seconds after starting until the glow plugs go out, and my normal routine is to let the diesel warmup that long. I wait longer with my diesel equipment. And with the 140a you don't need to add to the stock alternator cable, it can handle that. I'm not sure if with the '05 the clocking of the back of the alternator is the same as the early trucks, with the positive post straight up. If it's clocked towards the driver, the back of the Bosch alternator can be loosened and reclocked.
TooManyToys: Thanks a bunch for your help!!!! I appreciate it!
The 230 is great. I suggest it. Run them in my fleet and they hold up.
Nice, scientific analysis! Much appreciated.
thanks nice vid can't wait for the next two thx u
Thank you for the great instructional video. The 70 inch long positive 1/0 goes from post to post but I'm not sure about the connection(s) at the post. Other than cut and attach a Noco TZKIT6 Lead-Free 3-Way Zinc Battery connector(s). Would you be able to upload a pic of the passenger side battery connection? My batteries have no side posts. Thanking you in advance.
Thanks. Where I posted out the parts for the 1/0 lug terminals I spec'd out 1/4" eyelet terminals for the two ends. These will fit under the nuts of the clamps 5mm tension bolts. I cleaned that side area of the clamp, covered with corrosion protection conductive grease (normally sold at electrical suppliers or HD/Lowes for buss bar connections), placed the 1/0 cable lug over the threaded section, and installed the factory nut.
Good catch, reviewing the video I had the terminal protectors in place and never showed how the cable was connected. Sorry about that.
Totally ok and thank you for getting back to me so fast. I'll be getting the 70" cable made up this week and then zoom will go those extra amps to the starter. Thanks in no little way to you for sharing your experience and expertise.
Again thank you,
Cheers and beers.
Do you have a recommendation on replacement battery terminal connectors? Are there any after market terminal connectors that would be an improvement over stock?
The best way to keep the cables is to crimp on a lug on the end of the cable after cleaning the copper strands, then use what is called Military terminals. They provide a solid connection to the lugs. Waytek is a good place to get these, but they are available everywhere.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Great information, however I feel many of us would be better served by a 1 minute video that just says clean this connection, add this cable and add that cable and voila, all done.
Not my style dude. It's what turned the trade from mechanics into technicians.
Thank you for your insight. My positive passenger side battery cable is badly corroded. Do you have any suggestion on either replacement or repair?
New cables fro Ford are getting hard to get. You can pull your cables, measure them and get someone like NAPA or order premade cables from the sources I listed.
Make sure battery and cables are secure to reduce movement and vibration. Corrosion is mostly due to leaks around the post causes by movement or cheap batteries
I'm having a problem where my driver battery is going dead (assume not charging) over time leading to electrical issues with rear taillights (extremely dim). Taillight wire shows good supply voltage at truckbed harness connector. Seeing a huge voltage drop from positive terminal on driver side battery to chassis ground on driver side chassis using multimeter. With truck running pos terminal to ground on body or engine shows 14.6 volts but to chassis its 6-10 Volts varying. The alternator stud shows 14.6 volts with engine as ground. If I hook up jumper cables from driver to passenger battery the problem alleviates itself. My bonding cable from body to chassis under passenger door is disintegrated(no longer bonding body to chassis been like that for 10 years) I have visually inspection the neg battery cables where they connect to the chassis on both driver and passenger side and they seem intact. I plan on unbolting them and inspecting them on the bench for damage and ohm resistance (what's spec?) And grinding fresh metal on the chassis where the lug from the cable makes contact to the chassis. Do you have any more insight or thoughts since you are much more versed then I am? Thank you, Mark.
Yeah, Mark. I've seen that before. It can be the positive cable that goes across from battery to battery. Corrosion in the connection, and sometimes a hard break in the lug connecting the positive wire to the passenger battery terminal.
Found a hard break In the lug to the chassis on the passenger side neg cable. Driver neg battery cable ohmed good. The threads on the bolts were very rusty and a lot of rust where lug meets frame (no bare metal) on both sides. I wire brushed the bolt threads and ground down the chassis where the lug makes contact to the frame. I added a 2 foot 1g ground wire from passenger neg battery terminal to passenger chassis. Hopefully this alleviates my driver side dead battery. With a voltmeter my chassis ground now matches my terminal and body voltage. No more voltage drop to chassis ground.
@@Trophy-mg5nf Cool. That would screw things up, too. Glad you got it sorted.
thanks for doing these videos watched several of your battery cables videos, planning to do this cable upgrade. But upon my inspection my cables are branded Royal 2/0 for the black and the Red interesting from the passenger side to the frame black is appx an 8 awg should this also be upgraded? or only the frame to block (not checked as yet) also still need to inspect the bond from cab to frame. also you mention an equivalent 3/0 for the red should i add a 1/0 to the positive in front of the radiator seems like someone may have already upgraded the cable partially? will there be an update to suggested cables and locations? thanks
I think your right Bryon, somebody's altered some of that. When I posted this on YT I also started a thread on FTE titled in it's name. It would be easier if you joined over there, to that discussion or starting your own, and that way you could read some of the other details and maybe post some pictures of what you have so we can sort it out. If you would rather stay here we can do that too.
The link is
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1433435-improving-battery-cables-for-battery-life.html
I got to watch it again and get some wire
#toomanytoys did you ever do the videos you mention at the conclusion (FICM and ECM grounding)?
Due to health issues and a truck problem, unfortunately, no. I made one up with what I had but it would have left a big hole in the conclusion, and then I'd be compelled to do another on the subject, and I'm already two videos past what I thought I was going to do on the subject.
When I get the motor back in the truck it will get done.
Could you give a summary of what wires you ran and from where to where upon reaching your conclusion?
Josh, it's two cables.
The negative cable is a 1/0 cable that runs between the frame mount of the drivers negative cable to a point on the engine block, most people have chosen one of the threaded points in the head above where I did that are easier to get to.
The second cable is between the drivers and passengers batteries, in parallel to the factory cable, 70" eye to eye. Anything from a 2ga to a max of 1/0ga balances the batteries, but the 1/0ga is ideal so all the conduits (cables) have the same resistance.
This layout keeps both batteries working equally as long as both batteries have similar CCA
TooManyToys
awesome, thank you
my truck wont even start if voltage falls below 12.8.... before i even Turn key on glow plug Cycles.......... below 40 degrees F my truck wont cold start purely because batteries. and i only have one extension cord long enough to reach the truck either block heater or batteries plug in batteries overnight truck cranks up immediately as low as 20 degrees F. batteries have have been on it for about 2 years Diehard Golds. 850 CCA...... im definatly upgrading all grounds and replacing my current factory battery cables and starter cable with new ones or upgrading it entirely larger cables slightly shorter lenghts higher CCA AGM's sick of battery issues being downfall of my truck. wanna eliminate any possibility that the batterys i buy are crap after 8 months vs. grounding being messed up or more than likely my terminals themselves are crap. adding in a Jump start 1/0 quick disconnect and mounting it underneath front bumper so jump starting someone or powering something else same connector dont even have to pop the hood.
Something is wrong because that is not normal. First, you have the batteries tested for capacity at any AutoZone or Advance parts store. O'Rileys may do that too; I just don't have one near me to know.
If your voltage is way low at key-on, wait to start without charging them, you may have an excessive draw. It may be an issue with the glow plug controller on these trucks. After shutting down the truck for an hour or two, you can check if the controller is bad if it is warm to hot.
Another thing sometimes seen is the battery to battery positive cable may have an issue, so you are only starting with one battery. That check would be testing the battery voltage on each after a no-start.
Hello brother. Thanks again for your information. When I was adding the negative from the drivers frame to the engine I found a easy to get to thread on the back of the engine as well as on the frame. Just wanting to double check if that matters? Or do I have to connect to the old driver side battery frame ground? Thanks again
Jared Reed Anywhere on the block is fine, but the other end should be on the drivers battery to frame connection for the least resistance.
Do you ever switch battery position mid life span of the battery?
I did before the cable change. The battery set after the cable change has not been, but I've not run the batteries to the point of replacing them as yet. With this set, I have a battery tester that shows % of health and resistance; both can be used to see how the battery life is going. It has seemed to be consistent battery to battery. The other issue is every battery is different. I have about 14 batteries in total between home and the farm, so a good base. What I'm doing now for dual battery setups is taking the tool with me and not only getting the highest capacity battery(s) at the store but trying to match the capacity between the pair.
I need to test another battery cable set up, which I think will make it so the need for balanced batteries and buying a pair when one goes down eliminated, but I don't know when that will be.
@@toomanytoys Thank you for the knowledge. I'm getting all the stuff together to bring our 05 up to speed.
So confusing. You make it clear, but the powerstroke I just bought in new shape runs 2 alternators from factory. Now what. lol.
With the dual system, the drivers negative should already be upgraded to the block, so that cable is not necessary. If you want to get more of the drivers battery to contribute to the starter, the same 70" eye to eye, battery to battery 2ga or up to 1/0ga can be used.
TooManyToys thank you so much. 07 King Ranch 250. All original with only 70,000 miles. Had it only a few months now after buying from the original owner. Seems to run very strong. It’s still basically new. Just been getting into your videos lately. You do great work. Cheers from central Canada!!
TooManyToys really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Thank you. I will try upgrade that wire. Need to redo the positive connections anyway.
@@jaybilawchuk2225 Glad to help. If your terminals are hurt, and we are starting to see that Ford wiring and harness are being discontinued, it would be better to make up an entire harness.
In that case, you could do 2/0ga from the starter and between both batteries, and use military-type terminals for the posts. You would have to mate up new eyelets on the alternator and cable to the CJB, that's that not that hard.
I don't disagree with all this analysis but I worked on 6.0 diesels at the dealer since they were released in 2003. In North Tx I will say we never ran into any problems with the factory wiring causing any of these problems you suggest. Maybe it's different in rusty environments. Seems like you think too much but if that makes you happy, getter done. These are antique old trucks now, so I see very few of these now days. I have left that business almost a yr ago now but I still service quite a few in my home (fully equipped) shop.
By the way they did have a recall on that negative stud in the early days, maybe the problem you speak of has to do with the ones that didn't get done. It's never been a problem in my area I will guarantee you.
Larry I'm having issues with my battery cables. I had a bad battery with a positive side leak. Made my terminals very corroded. How can I replace these terminals on both batteries?? I have a 2006 250 6.0.
My answer is : You can't replace just the terminals with the correct (factory parts) Cable assembly is how they are serviced. It's expensive for those I'm sure but I've done some and it's the CORRECT repair. One of them is the harness that goes to the starter. Kinda hard to do but not that bad (probably a 2 hr job)
More info then powerstroke help
God I hope so. Thanks!
Would this be applicable to the 7.3 as well?
The battery to battery positive cable, yes. The negative cable to the block is not needed. With the 7.3 Ford used cables from each negative terminal directly to the block.
I have a question about the 6.0 Powerstroke. I don't drive it in the wintertime and if I disconnect both batteries for a couple months, will the FICM be okay? I heard that if the FICM gets low on volts it will mess it up. Do the battery constantly keep the FICM at 48 volts? Last year I kept the battery charged with a trickle charger all winter which sucked. Thanks
Having the batteries disconnected will not affect the FICM. The mess up time is during the starting mode, the deepest drop in voltage.
With both my truck batteries and the 10 more at the farm, during periods of months of a shutdown, I pull them and kept them in a garage. Then anywhere from one to six months, I will recharge each overnight; they don't need a trickle charge all the time. You can do that, but I've not found it necessary over a few decades of doing this. I prefer them out of the cold because the condensation that can form on them may provide a leak path across the terminals.
@@toomanytoys thank you so much!! Your help is greatly appreciated!!
@@Austin2276 Youre welcome ... anytime.
Would I be able to do the same thing by running a ground cable 2/0 or larger directly to the starter and the same size from one battery positive to the other?
The object of this work was to get the driver's side battery to work as much as the passenger side battery. You could go up to a 2/0 cable battery to battery, but with the existing stock cable there you don't need to, a smaller cable would work. A 1/0 is about the most I would do.
The same with the ground, it's the driver's battery that needs a better path to the block, just a 1/0. If you need a new ground drivers battery cable because the terminal clamp is hurt, then just purchase a new passenger-side ground cable and use that. Instead of connecting it to the frame, connect it directly to the block. There a threaded hole for it just above the lowest stantion for the shroud on the driver's side.
Just added 4/0 copper Back pass Cyl Head to frame.....then 4/0 copper from frame to trans tab...converter draws ome power.. do i Still have to double the Front!? Thankx!!! Great workk N thankx for your sacrafice Health ...lol
other grounds all new
Ford in their Body Builders guide states to not add any grounds to the transmission. All of the transmission electrical flow both positive and negative for transmission functions are isolated and carried through the harness.
It's been three years since given the Levaquin drug for pneumonia and still dealing with the issues.
@@toomanytoys wow check out A1 transmissions you tube video....about ground loss and components welding together....I'm not arguing your point ...opal check it out sound logical to me ...I don't wanna be doing anything detrimental...so I'm kinda like oh k...
@@toomanytoys ya I'm n central n it sucks
@@toomanytoys th-cam.com/video/Jm8-EIt0-Gw/w-d-xo.html
I can pick up 12 ft. of 2.0 welding lead less than $10.00 can I just use it instead of 1.0 ??? thanks Bob
bobsdogtag That would would work as well.
can you please advise on how this updrade should be done with stock dual alternators 2001 f350.
John Litvinenko
John, this work was done for the 6.0 and I haven't looked at the 7.3 at all.
7.3 already have grounds from both batteries to the engine.
Any way I could get a video showing how to add the extra cable from the frame to engine block? I'm a dumb caveman.
I'll put it on the list, but it will take a while as I have my motor out.
Thanks. Mine is too right now.
For now 2:16 to 2:40 shows the locations available on the block. If I went back and redid this video I would be telling a good option is to go to RockAuto and get the negative cable that is used on both batteries for the dual alternator vehicle. It's the same cable as we have on the passenger side which connects from the block to the frame as well. It also has the 8ga lead off the terminal that goes to the firewall, that can be connected above the headlight where the ABS ground is. On the dual Alt vehicles, the cable connection for the block is at 2:34, just above the stator standoff.