Dynojet PC-5 Autotune idle AFR adjusting.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2013
- As the idle AFR was raised to 16.5-15-6, with the SAS disabled, it was necessary to re-balance the idle AFR. This shows the effectiveness, of the system, and how easy it is to do so. Full forum thread can be seen here....
advrider.com/forums/showthread...
2009 BMW F800GS.
this what im looking for..at last finally find it....work like charm
Good video, I just purchased the auto tune for my cruiser. This video was very helpful 👍👍
VERY NICE ! It helped me to simplify the whole damn thing on a 2007 800 ST
nice explanation and great video mate keep em coming
Great video!!! This helped me out a lot!
Gracias. me sirvio de mucho
+Carlos Castillo Mena Por nada amigo.
Will that work on a ZX10R 2011 which has automatic idle speed control?
Hello i have a 2017 s1000rr.
My stock header assembly consists of 2 o2 sensors . I am ordering akra SS header assembly with the pc5 and autotune module.
The auto tune version at-200 says it has only one sensor .
What do i do with the other sensor ?
Or should i order the dual sensor auto tune module that's ther for harleys?
why did you choose 13.8 AFR? Is it the recommended value? Did your fuel economy increase with the Autotune? Thanks
I chose 13.8 because of a bit more fuel economy. I began @ 13.2 but wanted a bit more. There are no recommendations. It really depends on what you want. Power.... economy..... in between. Fuel mileage was with in 5 mpg from 13.2 to 14 AFR.
So is flashing my ecu pointless if I already have a PCV with autotune? Or does it just give me maximum performance having done the ecu flash +PCV W/Autotune
THanks!!!!!!!!!!
peter A Quite welcome Peter.
It workED.. ! Now I can't manage to have the autotune green light on, after having put the switch...
Hi, great video, thanks! Did you remove your stock o2 sensor and put an eliminator to the stock connector?
there. unction of the PC-5, you remove the stock o2 sensors, and install the auto tune O2 sensors in their place.
@@ebrabaek is the sensor size the same or do you need to weld a new bung?
@@mrboostification it is the same size and screws right in where the OEM sensor was removed.
hi. how to adjust fuel ratio on z800? i want when gear is N, but u rev the throttle it pops fire? what change i have to make? i have pc5
you running both o2 sensors? I can't add in the 2nd bung on my akra ti. so I was running the auto tune one for a little to get it close then switching back to the OEM one and turning off the auto tune. you see a huge problem with that? I still need to install my block off plates and start over with the auto tune though..
+jawknee21 The 800GS only have one O2 bung. Some have added a second one, but for the purpose of instant AFR indication. I am not certain of what you mean with running or needing to run two bungs.
You don't need two sensors, really ! i have read that someone did that obtaining at maximum and for only 5 ( five ) squares in total, a difference of 5% from one cylinder to the other. They work simoultaneously, and not even being a "V" twin, it is as much regular as possible in his erogation.
Hey I’m having trouble with accepting the trims after riding the bike I’m tuning. Why would that happen. I have a auto tune I bought also. But still having trouble
So after several tunes and fine tunes- for a race weekend do you think I should turn my auto tune off so that it will not try and adjust while I’m racing. I’m looking for consistency and predictability. Sometimes I think my auto tune is working against me due to changing weather conditions and the adjustments it’s making causing changes
That is an excellent question. If you have created a great base map then perhaps you dont need the on the fly adjustments. Or so could the argument be. The other side of that argument is that as environments changes the AT will adjust the fueling for you. Environment could be anything from engine temps, pressure altitude changes and such. Before I installed this system (which I no longer has as the bike was sold) I watched a great tuner and friend race his team to the top of the pikes peak in the hill climb and they left it on. Perhaps largely in part to the change in altitude. They won that event by the way. I never raced the 8GS, but my AT was always on. Were I in your shoes I would leave it on but thats just me. Id say that it should not be working against you as it is just trying to create changes on the fly to correctly fuel the motor with the AFR you have told it to do. It leans very fast, and perhaps in racing first few minutes and it should be set. You cant however argue with success. If your laps are faster with it off then there ya have it.
I am sorry to ask such a stupid question. Would be glad if you can help me here. I have a Ninja 300 with LV slip on. I have ordered PC5 with Autotune. My understanding is I just need to download a map from Dynojet site, and Autotune will eventually optimise it. Do I have to manually enter AFR ?
No stupid question here Chinmay.... All questions are valid. With the addition of the Auto tune (AT) module you dont need a map from Dynojet. If you did not have the AT then you would need a map from them. The quickest way to get going is to install the system, and remember to go into the menu's and enable AT. You can check and make sure that it is working by raising the idle with the throttle, and the little light in the bottom right that says Auto Tune running will turn on. If you are going for power then Just fill all the spaces in the AFR table to 13.2. It you want economy then 14.3..... best of both worlds.... go with 13.8. The AT module will add or subtract fuel to meet the target AFR that you have inputted in the AFR table. After several runs, the map table will show you how much it is adding and subtracting through out your driving range, and you can play with the AFR to suit your needs.
ebrabaek hey not sure if you know this problem but when I have my autotune disabled it idles around 14 to 15 and when i enable my autotune and try to set the AFR to 13.5 all of a sudden my AFR reads like 655 and auto will work for a second but than will go back to 655 haha im not sure why it has no device errors and the autotune light stays red on the module. HELPPP!!
butch meathook Ouch...... I have not seen anything like that. But the fact that the AT ( auto Tune) light remains red, tells me that it is not working. One of the most common errors I have seen, is that many operators do not enable the AT module. Remember that every time you change parameters, you need to save them to the PC-5. Like wise in the tools menu you need to enable the AT module. Unless you change the base settings, then AT will not be active while at idle, so you need to raise the idle, and if AT is enabled, then the light should turn green.
I have 2010 F800GS. Where did you disable the SAS from. Thanks
Hi, just unplug the secondary air injection module ( the one with 2 pins on the connector ) on the right side of the airbox. It won't throw a light on the bike screen. let the bike balance the new inputs, say 5 or 6 startings, and then you'll be ok. it worked fine on my 800 st
How do you get all those gauges on the right side? Mine only has throttle and rpm. Cant get afr or duty
Im sorry, but I couldnt tell you. It has been a while since I sold the bike. I do however recall that there were no options to populate the screen, but rather it was what it was. Could be a windows function, or perhaps a software level of the PC-5/AT. Dunno, sorry.
Help me pls. I have problem with my garanty it's too slow just 600-1000 it's make my bike is hard too turn on. How i can set garanty in 1500-1700. Thanks you so much
I dont understand what you mean of Garanty. You can also contact Dynojet direct.
Does the autotune adjust the ignition time with the module?
It does not.
Good afternoon, I would like to know if you have how to help me, my bike is a FZ6 2008 and I installed the PCV with Autotune but when I turn the bike is locked in 9.99 in the AFR and it does not change anything even with the bike turned on time Programmed for the autotune to start working, would you have any idea what might be going on.
In advance I thank you and I look forward to your return, do not notice because I do not speak English and I have to use the translator rsrsrsr.
Marcos Jordão have you tried switching sensors or your ground wire
great video ...
lets say i'm gonna installed full system exhaust along with other mods like aftermarket race spec air fliter , flashed ecu , pcv & auto tune too ...
i wonder if it's okay to loaded maps that provided by exhaust manufacturer into PCV without running & tuning in dyno ( because my city where i lived didn't have dyno facility ) ??! ...
but the things that bugging me is that map provided by exhaust manufacture was recommended to use with 95 octane gas fuel with their map while gas fuel in my city was 92 octane ...
also , i wonder if i'm loaded map that provided by exhaust manufacturer into PCV does the Autotune modify / change it's map that already loaded in PCV ??! ...
Thanks Gery.
If you have the AT then your base map becomes less important, and no dyno is needed. You just set the AFR you want. If you dont have AT then you can experiment with the different maps. Fuel octane is not really affected, as the timing is not changed on the f800GS
I have tested MANY PCV maps on my previous Honda VFR vtec, ending with a WONDERFUL single cylinder map that stunned everybody tried my bike. They were lacking here and there, often too much. That said, pcv and pc3 maps for 800 bmws are too lean from idle, and far too rich at high revs... talking of values about -14 and + 25 things that with my Akra exhaust made gases way too hot and fouling spark plugs.....start with a zero map and build your own new one through the days. You won't be disappointed, and at zero mistakes !!!
Why do u have 13.5 and 13.2 in ur target AFR map, isn't supposed to be 13.8 all the time... ?
What is the trim map?
Thanks, nice vid btw :)
When you run the PC-5 with the Auto tune module, you can set the AFR to what ever you like. One of the advantages to doing so, is you can keep the bike lean, until you need power. The way you do this is by filling in the small squares. On one side you have RPM, the other.... Throttle position. You can put in 13.8 every where, if you'd like, but then you are not taking advantage of the system. I left mine about 13.8 AFR for most of the time, but went to 13.5 and 13.2 as more power was needed. The trim table, is merely an indication of what the Auto tune does to change what the Factory ECU does, into what you are demanding with the AFR table. :)
@@ebrabaek Why 13.8 and not much leaner at 14.7? I think the stock ecu would do the same and you could save even more fuel?
@@K0nst4nt1n96 Anything + means richer not leaner so when he put 13.8 in that's 13.8% richer than the previous state.
Alec Sheen in the normal fuel table that is true but he set 13.8 in the target afr table which will translate to 13.8 Parts air to 1 fuel. So 14.7 is leaner than 13.8. autotune will trim the field value of the cell to match the target afr. I was just asking why he is choosing to be richer than stochiometric as this reduces efficiency.
@@K0nst4nt1n96 Ah I see my bad I only just got mine so have not really played about much as mine is a custom map also I don't have the auto tune add on.
Can we do that without dyno and only base map without at module?
I would love to but I sold the bike and no longer have access to it. Sorry.
magnificent LOL
14.7 to 1 is optimal afr 14.5 to 1 would be safer
always better to be a bit rich than too lean
my power commander doesn't show afr reading??
RaptorMan2016 what version of Power Commander do you have and did you purchase the auto tune to go with your power commander you can't see air fuel ratio unless you purchase the auto-tune device to go with your power commander 5
dude you need to install o2 sensor auto tune worth the price! it's optional
Why does my afr show 655.35 instead of actual afr .
I have no idea.
What is the best afr on ide?
I dont recall the exact idle AFR. I ended up disabling Auto Tune at idle, which is normal to do. You can still however change the fueling map to include idle numbers. I bumped numbers until I had a smooth idle and left it alone. This is by memory as I sold the bike back in 2013.
@@ebrabaek i Ask because i have 11.7 on ide, i think IT is too rich
@@ffsapher Well.... There is several factors at play here. The extreme lean can carry same symptoms as rich. Ie, it can run rough both lean and rich. Generally with out an insert in the pipe you can smell fuel vapors if your rough idle rich. If your too lean it could stumble off idle when you twist. Many different reasons for either.
sounds like bmw f800gs 2010...
+CDI Bingo..... 2009 though... :)
Dane ?
Yeppers... :)