That's a 318 poly. Solid lifters and fairly high compression. More fuel, fill the bowl through the vent. If you need help with parts let me know. I've been a avid 65 and 66 Fury owner all my life.
Perhaps you might enjoy following along as I get my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban back into full functional daily driver. th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
I had a '64 Polara 500 - basically the Dodge version of the Plymouth Sport Fury. One owner when I got it. Owned that car for 16 years, went from 68K miles to 337K miles. Had the 318 Poly. Was a tad tired when I traded the car, but still ran like a champ. Heads were never off! My unsolicited suggestions for your Fury III are: clean up engine bay. Find air cleaner. Rebuild original carb - will make enough power to be surprising and net about 17 MPG. Change all fluids and fix the original A/C. That factory V-2 compressor is bulletproof. All parts are still available, though some are a bit tough to come by. Join MOPARTS forum - free and people will embrace you and be very helpful. Make the car safe, original and enjoy it. Fantastic road car, BTW. Be careful with the power washer. it will hurt the trim. Please keep the stickers and original dealer emblem. Very cool. OEM color is turquoise. Very pretty. "Kid" is great. The windows are tinted [not the film you pulled off] from the factory with A/C. Just Dashes will make the dash look new. Best spark plugs I found for my 318 were: Autolite 85. Belden plug wires. Have fun!
Just subscribed to your channel! I'm enjoying it! Perhaps you might like following along with the repairs on my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban. th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
@@flyingsparksgarage I heard about you guys from another youtuber, and then you posted this Fury video that popped up on my feed. I have three of these and that's a Canadian 318 Polyspheric headed engine. They were the standard workhorse until 1966. They get GREAT mileage in stock trim and that little two barrel isn't bad at all with a fresh kit in it. If you want information about the car, check out the fender tag decoder online, and put in the numbers on your fender tag and you will find out all the factory specs on your Fury. If you aren't familiar with that carb, I would be happy to refurbish it for you, and tune it on one of my 318's so you could bolt it on and rock & roll. There's allot of folks in the Mopar hobby that know allot about those C bodies. The community is as old as the cars are, and then some, in some cases, Lol
Gas with Marvel Mystery Oil will work very well when first starting an engine for the first time in a while, but it's no substitute for pulling the spark plugs and squirting some down the cylinders. Also, you really should pull the distributor and reach down with an attachment on a drill and spin the oil pump up for about two minutes to allow all the crank and camshaft bearings to be lubricated before you even turn the motor over or you stand a good chance of wiping all the bearings in the motor. This will also help the lifters to pump once the engine turns over. THEN you turn the engine over for 15 seconds without the plugs installed to clear the Marvel from the cylinders and fully coat them. THEN you put he plugs back in and the wires on. THEN you spray a little starter fluid with lube (some starter fluid comes with lubricant, some doesn't) down the carb, and THEN you try to start it.
Guys, thank you way fun. Many of us that do power tour look for small block Mopars like this one. If it was mine I would put a fuel injection system on the car. Not a bigger carb and stay with the small intake so the gas mileage on the power tour was good. I would make sure the air conditioning works if it has air if not vintage air it. I would replace the front seat, either go full on stock vinyl replacement bench or buckets from something newer. Headliner replaced, remove the padded dash completely, upgrade to 3 point basest belts and drive it. Make it a really comfortable cruiser. I would have a cheap respray in the original color, likely use a single stage paint. New tires keep the wheels, drive it on the next power tour in honor of your friend and ride in style and comfort this next year.
Beautiful fury. It's a 318 poly sometimes also referred to as a 318 wide block, I had 66 fury II 4dr with the same engine and 2bbl and it would flat out move and do every bit of the 120 speedo. Looking forward to seeing the progress on it
Definitely accelerator pump. When the throttle just opens, there isn't much air moving through the carb pulling on the ventury pulling gas out of the bowl. So, the accelerator pump gives it that extra bit of fuel until the air flow starts putting fuel. You have a "flat spot" as it was called. Before fuel injection.
This brought back so many memories. Prior to leaving for military sercive, SE Asia, in 1968 I had a '65 Plymouth Fury III 2D-HT 383cu. 4bbl, 4 speed. Loved that car. It was painted the same color as the original color of yours. Sold it before shipping out to Vietnam because I wasn't sure I'd actually make it back home. After I returned I bought a '66 Plymouth Satellite 2D-HT again with a 383 4bbl, 4 speed which I turned into a drag car. Mopar big blocks, 383, 440, and hemi's have the distributor in the front of the engine. The small blocks 273 and 318 had it in the rear. These cars are though but heavy and I tore up several rear ends when you put allot of power to that much weight. I also worked in the service department of the Chrysler/Plymouth dealership. If these cars sit without being driven the brake wheel cyl. rust on the inside and start leaking the fluid out all over the brake shoes and you have no pressure. Check inside the drums before you put too much effort into those brakes. Glad to see you back. I also have a little 4 1/2lb. female Yorkie. They are such great dogs. Good luck.
I had a 64 Fury as a kid, so nice to hear that engine. It is in fact a scallop head 318. hence the pattern on the bottoms of the valve covers. I would say start with an overhaul kit for the bbd carter carb, Champion copper core plugs cap rotor and wires. Get some fresh gas in the tank and check the timing. Not sure if the distributor is electronic or has points and condenser like mine, did seem like it was running ragged. Transmissions on those were pretty bullet proof. good luck! Oh and change out the ballast resistor for the ignition as well.
Terry Blake if you keep the same firing system ( points, condenser, plugs, distributor, coil) the car needs the same ballast resister. The ballast resister reduces the voltage used to incite the coil because it is triggered with stored charge in the condenser by the opening & closing of the points. The lower voltage increases the life of the points and helps prevent the points from burning.
@UC8ncy7e0sC2kYiKvOGfJiUg yes you are correct. When the ignition switch is turned to the “spring loaded start”;position, the resister is by passed and full battery voltage is supplied to excite the ignition coil just to assist starting and when the ignition switch is released it returns to the “on” position which connects the resister’s 9 volts to help keep the points from arcing and burning. That is the reason the start position is spring loaded so as soon as the engine fires up, just release the switch and it will automatically go to “on”!
im a lifelong mechanic, always used carb cleaner, you could spray it while cranking, and keep it running once started, also if you want to clear out a flooded engine put the pedal to the floor and crank this gives the motor max air, also bad gas/ fouled plugs can keep a car from starting even if you have good spark, timing, and compression, wet plugs dont spark very well.
Speaking of the kid, I was thinking this would be a great project for her. Let it be hers to work on until she is 16!!! She may drive it sooner, but we will never say!! Wow she is getting big!!!
This is so great because I asked her if she wanted to repaint this car to it’s original color and be her car and she was like WHAT?!?!! EMI!! And I just smiled at her 😅 Soooo who knows!!
@@flyingsparksgarage can you keep the female off the cars and doing the mans works..... we all know she dont know wtf she is doing, just in the video for eyecandy
@@resenddelete6820 take your negative Nancy talk elsewhere to a different channel if you don't like what you see here, keep in mind that nobody forced you to watch their video!
318 with a Stromberg WW carb. Excellent work! I rebuilt many of those carbs, plus 2 engines and a 727 Torqueflight since we had two 65's and one '66 Fury in our family growing up. Two wagons and one sedan. You couldn't kill them!
Those old 318's were some bad ass engines and easy to work on. I would try to keep this as stock as possible, it is awesome just the way it is. Ya just can't run down to the Chrysler dealer ship and get another one like it. Respect it for what it is, it was unique in its day and still is. Love your site.
@@briandetrick2688 Thats funny. I have had several as well as a lot of people that I have known and as long as you kept the oil changed every 3000 miles and tuned it up a couple times a year, they would run upward to 200 thousand miles easily.
@@leslietarboxjr4287 -> Yep, my sister had one in the mid seventies - would bring it to us for an oil change if the light didn't go off after a curve. Dad could hear it pull in the farm driveway - "Judy's here for an oil change". - LOL You couldn't kill it, she tried.
most likely a 318 for that year would be nice if you could drop in a340 it looks like the body is worth saving if you could find a donor car you might even get a better interior
Sweet, had a 66 Plymouth Fury Commando 383 Ex F.B.I. car. That was one hell of a car. Go 4 barrel Carter, dump the Master Cylinder for the brakes, change the front drum and rear drum brakes to disk conversion because when it rains or going through a puddle the front and rear drums won't stop. The wheel bearings also were not good for that year either, they burn out and weld on to the spindle. I know the later years for the Fury had a second fuel filter in the gas tank so check if there is a filter in the gas tank as well as at the engine. Yes replace the starter and alternator and the water plugs on the engine block may leak. Good luck on the rebuild, that is one nice car.
4:55 318 Polysphere is a "A" series engine, it is not a small block. The 273 and 318 (and 340) Small Block is a "LA" series engine. Virtually no parts interchange with the 318 Small Block. A 4bbl aluminum intake was available from several speed part vendors but you will need to look on the used market to find one now.
The 318 Poly is a small block. You can put LA heads on a poly, with a oil drain tube, and AMC lifters. The blocks are almost identical. I own them both.
Parts are available. 4bbl, dual 4bbl, cams, headers. Not cheap. Motors are reliable. I say build it. It will not be mainstream. And those R12 AC systems got ice cold. Looks like a dive pump. Lol
Pro tip; start washing at the top (door panels, seats etc.) and work your way to the bottom. Then you don't get dirt/debris over what you've just cleaned. Great video, love that you've included "the kid" as part of the project.
A better reason for starting at the top of the car when doing a wash job. Using a rag mop or a soft bristle washing brush The top has quite a bit less road/ street debris like mud, dust, small stones, etc than the lower sections of car especially at wheel level near fenders and along doors. If the lower sections are washed before the top then the possibility of having some of the debris still clinging to wash mop or brush even after dipping it back into the bucket washing liquid soap solution. THE DEBRIS ABSOLUTELY WILL SCRATCH THE PAINTED SURFACES AND WINDOW GLASS !
First things first, for a '66 Plymouth Fury III, she's really clean and solid... Secondly, it is a 318 Poly engine; I would first check and change the accelerator pump and then switch it over to a four-barrel carburetor and possibly get it fuel-injected... Also, improve the master cylinder and alternator because it looks nervous and probably in time needs to be replaced... Also the A/C needs attention too but it's a great ride once its finished.........
Definitely a 318 poly aka 318 wide block main difference is the heads and valve angle. Consider it the grandfather to the hemi. Very little interchange on the top end.
Arch nemesis The poly was actually an offshoot of the hemi, the first hemi came out in 1951and the poly engine didn’t come out until 1955 making it the grandson of the hemi
the Poly exposes itself with the bottom edge of the valve cover having a sawtooth look to it. Plymouth came out with the Poly because Plymouth was the budget level version of Ma Mopar and the Hemi was too expensive to produce but there was a need for a V8 to go up against Ford's Y block and the Chevy mouse motor. The A motor has a unique valve arrangement seen again on the Jeep 4.7 but kept the Hemi's lifter valley setup, creating a weird pushrod angle seen on the LA (Little A) blocks that came out after 1967.
The engine is an A 318; a predecessor of the LA 318 which became Mopars go to engine in 1967. Parts were fun to find in the 1980s when I had a 66 F3 2door. I painted it black from original white and the red interior just popped ! Weiand sold high rise intakes for this engine. Old drag racers said the engine was a favorite with a cult following. Mine had a 727 torqueflite transmission. Love this bodystyle! Thanks for sharing this joyrney. Good luck and God Bless yall from NC.
Thank You for the correction. The Dealership ‘s offer must have must have been a scam. I had owned the Plymouth for just a year prior to getting my orders to report to Vietnam in June 1966. I thought I may have been confused about the year/ model 1965-66 but I purchased it in the spring of 1965 just prior to the shut off of the 65 models. The 66 models were due in Sept 1965!
Sorry for the loss of your friend! My brother and I had a 66 Fury 3 with a 383 big block with that turquoise blue color ! It was a cool car. 👍🏻😎🇺🇸🦅🙏🏻😇thanks for the memories!
Great video. I don't know much about Mopar's but on my Chevy inline six 292 I have 2 Quick Fuel 650 double pumpers. I also have a 6-71. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You guys always cheer this old Veteran up.
Poly 318 with a 727. Quick tip- before dropping it into gear, especially after sitting awhile, put the transmission in neutral. The pump doesn't start up in park, so put it in neutral a few seconds to get the ATF circulating. Just going from park to reverse or drive is hard on the transmission. The Polyshere 318 is a very torque-y motor. A cam, headers, a 4-bbl & intake and that 318 will surprise you
Definitely worth getting a 4bbl + intake manifold for it. I have owned a few 318 polys and they are great engines. They can be pretty potent if you want to go that route. Had a 318 poly 4bbl out a 59 Fury in a 1950 Dodge step side pickup. That was .030 over, RV cam, not much else and it was a tire fryer. Good torque from these engines.
Wow, I never realized that the 318 Polys were such torquey little engines. Closest I got was a 1984 Ramcharger with a 360 LA that I swapped for a 5.9 Magnum due to consistent vapor lock and me not knowing anything about carbs.
Just a friendly suggestion… refrain from hammering on a battery terminal (6:50) to get them to seat on the post. The battery case can crack and leak electrolyte or even short internally. Best to use a terminal spreading plier (cheap) or other tool to open the terminal before placing it on the post. Also in very rare instances using a metal tool on a positive post can accidentally form a live circuit if the negative terminal is already connected. Seen it happen and it’s not pretty.
I have watched your shows for quite a while now and have thoroughly enjoyed them. But today I was surprised at the lack of knowledge for starting a car that had been sitting for so long. Bad gas for one. Also when you opened the hood and saw the nest the better thing would have been to clear out the motor a little better so junk isn't sucked down the carb that has no cover. The wheels and brakes are probably rusted tight and if you keep horsing it the trans will most likely pile up. Please slow down and take some time to check out the systems before trying to drive all over with that beautiful car.
YES AGREE.,. Then ripping the insulation from above an open Carburetor with Dirt Falling in it...UGH...The engine is probably a 360. COVER Your Carbs before Ripping out Stuff from above it. Your friend was Probably rolling watching this...LOL..
Hey guys y'all are exactly spot on ! The accelerator pump is that part of the problem! Depending on what you really want ; the two barrel rebuilt will run really good! I know this is what you want to hear, is a four barrel on an aluminum high rise will bring a bigger smile to your face!! I'd drop the pan on the transmission and change the filter and it should be fine. It doesn't sound like the previous owner abused it. You might check for leaks at the wheel cylinders and shoes also. Yeah nobody likes to beat on the starter ( how embarrassing) in a crowded parking lot!! That is the nicest looking Fury that Plymouth ever made and y'all are sooooo fortunate to have such a beautiful ride. Hopefully I could help some. Y'all take care and enjoy!! P.S. If your daughter use a power washer on my car and make it look that good ( SHE'S HIRED )!! My car has some rust and needs a driver's side quarter panel. Sorry looks like I'm writing another best seller that won't make it to print!! Good night!
My grand mother had a 68 fury that I drove for a while. My mother had a 73 Satellite. Love these old Mopars. Love this car. The little lady has good control with that pressure washer. Great job. The car looks great.
My Great Uncle had 1960 or 61 Fury I 4 door with push button transmission. My first car in 1979 was a 73 two door Satellite with a 318. Loved that car.
Just a tip Take an empty gear oil bottle with the funnel top (Aka a blown engine squirted) Put the funnel in the float bowl Saves flooding the carb from pouring down the throat Also we check for spark first If the cylinders are dry no oil then flooding it will really was the cylinder walls Brakes are hung up good luck
It should be a 318 That was a really strong engine 💪 Yes, the accelerator pump is the issue. I would LOVE to have it for my project car! I love your channel. I'm 70 and retired, with too much time on my hands. I was a mechanic by trade, and really want something like that to restore.
Yes, there has to be gas in the bowls for the accelerator pumps to work ! You can't get gas in the bowls by dumping gas down the carb throats and you'll mess up the accelerator pumps pumping a dry carb.
What you have here is a 1966 Plymouth Fury with what is known as a 318 Polyspherical combustion chamber "A" engine. It was introduced by Plymouth in 1956 as a 270 CID engine, It grew to 318 in 1957 and is what was under the hood of Christine. In 1964 the first "LA" 273 was introduced which is based on this same block with some changes made to accommodate the wedge heads. In 1967 the polyhead was dropped and the 318 got wedge heads like the 273, also the bigger bore 340 was introduced. Then in the early '70s the 360 with a longer stroke was introduced. Then in the early '90s, the magnum V8 was introduced with its heritage going back to this engine. You can use the timing chain and gears, the crank, the distributor, oil pump, oil filter, water pump, oil pan from any 318, 1962 and newer, also transmissions, The carburetor is a Carter B&B which has a small baseplate, pretty much standard on318s and even the same as a 283 Chevy carb.. Strictly Polyhead parts can be had like aluminum valve covers, aluminum intake, headers etc but they're not cheap.also performance camshafts. It also has solid lifters. If it were me, I would put a Mopar performance electronic ignition in it and a Holley throttle body fuel injection for a 2 bbl intake. .A good place for you to get educated on these engines is on facebook... facebook.com/groups/542278482490634/ These engines wake up with a little cam, carb and ignition work They have canted valves like a 351 Ford Cleveland or big block Chevy but with smaller diameter ports so they make gobs of torque on the street. Gary Pavolich (who is the administrator of the group I posted a link to) Is the guy to look up, he is the absolute guru on these engines and can hook you up with parts too.
I didn't know you still had that car! I remember messaging you about it when it was for sale. I'm glad they gave it to y'all, and love hearing that thing run! I wish I could have known Aaron!
Also I hate to bring this up again, but Aaron, you are a lucky lucky man. Not only is Emily absolutely beautiful, but she's also a beautiful person. She has such a big heart and loves everyone, AND she knows how to work on cars. You my friend have a rare find, and I'm sure she's made you a better man along the way. All my best to one of the best couples on TH-cam.
Hi there, My parents bought a '66 Fury III new in May of 1966. It was also a 2 door hardtop and was red with black interior and sold for $3,750 (almost exactly a dollar per pound). The 318 was the standard engine for the Fury III with 383 and 440 as options called commandos. The backside of the hood ornament with the option engines would have the engine displacement written on it without the mopar star with a black or red backround. Red indicated a higher horsepower set up. Possible that the 440 was only available in the sport fury which had front bucket seats and a console shifter. $ barrel carbs were not offered for this engine, but Chysler had a factory cross ram dual quad manifold for that 318 wide block, not the other 318. If you do decide to upgrade the power, DEFINITELY !! upgrade the brakes. The stock brakes are horrible. When the car was only 2 years old, I tried stopping from 120 mph and the brakes faded to almost nothing at about 70 mph. The standard rear differential is a 323:1 with a optional posi with a 352:1 (I think). The trans can handle the increased power easily. Our car got 18mpg with my mother driving, for some odd reason it only got 14mpg with me driving... Side note: the fuel tank is huge, I put 28 gallons in it once for $8.96. It was a great car but was stolen in 1977, sad. It has mechanical lifters, I can hear valve noise, so I recomend a valve adjustment. They were prone to burning exhaust valves if the clearance was too tight . Have Fun!
This is the old Y block 318. It is a very strong and dependable engine. I had 2 of these in the past and they are bullet proof. I think what you need is the proper carb rebuild kit to solve your problem. They were quit common and should still be avaliable. Bill
That car has killer looks, I'd love to see it original color too. Hopefully the Mopar guys will recommend a carb that has a small fire now and then. ;)
love the fury and anxious to see you get it fixed up nice... Fun video for me to watch as I love old Mopars from the '60s and have owned quite a few... Also like the Fury-ous shirt you were wearing at the end. 👍👍
Holley 80457S (600cfm, electronic choke, vacuum secondary's), or if you like simplicity, Edelbrock 1405 600cfm, manual choke. You'll also want an intake, for a stock 318, the good ol Edlebrock performer / performer RPM series (2176 for performer, 7176 for Performer RPM) would be fine, go with the performer RPM if you plan to work / replace the heads and drop in a mild cam and headers. Edelbrock also has a great set of midrange performer RPM heads that are bolt-on, 60775, under a thousand from Summit. They used to sell an awesome performer RPM top-end kit which had a 600 manual 4-barrel, the performer RPM intake and carb, a mild cam with hydraulic lifters, gaskets and a double roller timing chain set including new head bolts, but I don't think it's available anymore, and I think it was post-1973 engines anyway, although it'd probably be able to work on a 60's small block. Those kits were good for like 425HP/400TQ on a stock bottom end 360 and I think were only around $3K. Another option would be to just grab a crate engine and be done with it, something like a Summit Racing BluePrint Engines 408ci Stroker should be nearly a drop-in replacement (you'll need different distributor, ignition and coil) and can be had for under $5K after the core charge, good for at least 400HP with a decent intake and carb.
It IS a 318.....but NOT an LA, or small block 318. It is a POLY 318. It is an earlier version from what most folks think of that would have come in your 70's Valiant or Duster. Unless you have access to an original 4bbl intake, there are not a ton of aftermarket parts readily available on the shelf for upgrading. Stock is your lock to success. They are sweet little cruisers, but not huge powerhouses. Rebuild the carb with a proper kit, service the points ignition(assumingit hasn't been converted to electronic), service the trans, go through the brakes, lube everything in sight(suspension), and cruise the hell out of it to get ice cream on a saturday night. DONE.
Hell, I don’t know but you sound like you know! I’m voting this suggestion up. I was thinking stick with stock too from the beginning and give it a chance to see how good the motor is after running it a bit after cleaning out the fuel and a good rebuild kit in that 2 bbl.
Hi I’m Bill from Minnesota and I used to have a 65 Fury III with the 318 and automatic. My tranny did exactly what yours was doing. I think a 4 barrel carb sounds nice but then you open a can of worms locating a new intake and then linkage…. Maybe go get the correct carb kit, fix the alternator bracket and redo the front seat and enjoy it like a old friend
The 318ci Plymouth Fury is an amazing engine and car!!! The 318 is bulletproof and parts are interchangeable with the 340's,etc. Also, my 318 with a high rise intake with Edelbrock Four Barrel Carburetor is an absolute screamer down the street. SOOO much power coming from Mopars famous Torque!!!
Remember, on these older cars you have a mechanical emergency brake. All you have to do is pull on the handle and keep it pulled and allow it to regulate with your hand while using the e-brake pedal to slow you or stop you. 28:04 she looks stunning, and period correct for that cars era.
When I was a young boy, my father had a 1966 Plymouth Fury III. It was a four door and I don't think it had A/C, but it was the baby blue color that your car used to be, and it had the 383 engine. I loved that car and was sorry to see it go when he got rid of it.
i also own a 66 Fury. My advice as a Moparian. this is a Poly A.K.A. wide block (A engine not an LA engine) 318... yes this is a 318, you do not want to over carburate this. but the accellerator pump is not happy. just rebuild the one you have and it will prevent issues with too much carb on too small of an engine.
Yes it came with a 318, my sister had one she handed down to me with 318 three speed on the tree and that looks exactly like the one in ours. A 500 cfm holley works great on a stock 318 from my experience. I seen it in the background of a few videos and wondered about it.
I had a black '66 Plymouth Fury a long time ago right after I finished basic training in the Army. I bought it in Salinas, California, not far from Fort Ord and drove it cross country to Fort Benning and then back home to Washington where I left it in the care of my mom when I was deployed to S.E. Asia. I never saw it again. I don't remember now what my mom said happened to it, I think one of my brothers totaled it. However, I still miss that car. It didn't have big power (318?) but it sure drove nice and to this day I wish I still had it. I think it was one of the nicest cars I ever had, it just looked right with all those straight lines. Especially in black. Mine even had the same style mag wheels.
Anytime you're bleeding brakes,put a block under the pedal so it won't go all the way to floor. Otherwise you'll probably need to replace the master cylinder. On old Mopars check trans fluid in neutral, warm,and running. Carb needs accelerater pump.
It is a 318 Polyspherical engine, they are great small blocks. The other name for them was Semi Hemi's, because of the combustion chamber. I have a couple of them, the limits are endless as far as cubic inches & h/ power. Keep it and pack it full of goodies, a stroker kit 400 + inches.
HI love the vid it was great to see. you may want to get a hold of Steve Dulcich he is a mopare guy big time he would give you some good advice on what to do with it. Steve is a good friend to Daved Frybuger in fact thay are both good with mopars great loves of them. good luck with the car looking to see more on it.
I've owned a 1965 Fury 1 and a 66 Fury 2. My mother loved the 66. 2 door ht, powder blue, 318 poly. I'm 64 now and would love to have another one in honor of my mother.
Looks like a 318. New Edlebrock Intake, Edlebrock 4 barrel carb, new valve covers. Probably could use some new plugs, plug wires and rotor. I'd test the coil to see how much it is putting out.
The valve covers very clearly are of a Poly-head A-block which by that point only would have been available as a 318. Not to be mistaken with the LA 318 that was used from 1968 into the 90s. The earlier Poly or semi-hemi engines were heavier but provided more torque and parts are not interchangeable.
It depends on how you plan to use it and/or what your friend would have done. And yes, he is correct that it is the accelerator pump that is bad in the carb. I am also suspicious of the front bake hoses. It looked like they were holding the front brakes on when you were trying to pull it out of the hole. Personally, I would rebuild the carb and run it as is. It sounded to me like the bearing might be going out in the alternator as well. Good luck!!
That's a 318 poly, which refers to the polyspherical cylinder head design. This heads combustion chamber is similar to that of its big brother the famed "Hemi". Keep in mind that an engine is merely a large air pump and engineers design each enigine with a specific application in mind, so before you toss a pocket full of money at an intake and carburetor, make sure the engine is capable of handling added CFM. I know the poly came with a variety of carburetor combinations, but there were a variety of camshafts that came with those also. Don't forget this car has transmission, and brake issues to begin with. Personally I would put together a plan and budget together before you go any further. As I tell any one who's come to me with a project " When a house is built you never start with the roof, plans are drawn then a sturdy foundation, next the walls, then the roof. Don't put the cart before the horse." Myself, I would assess the vehicles overall condition, get under it an make sure the undercarriage is worthy, don't forget that car had been sunk in the mud for five years. Remember bottom to top. Can't wait to see what direction you guys take. Im sure it'll provide lots of interesting U-tube content. Good luck with your project.!
That belch was unexpectedly awesome! Bring it back to it's former glory if you can. First time watching you guys so I don't know how often you've done this. Always a good idea to pull the plugs and drop some oil in on top of the pistons and let it sit awhile, check if the fuel is any good plus check the fuel pump and filter and of course the engine and tranny oil. I had a 75 Plymouth Fury Custom 2 DR just after high school. Typical stock 318 and no guts unless you did a brake stand then haul it into drive until you blow the spider gears in the rear end...lol. These cars had starter issues, some of them had double wall exhaust that would collapse and lose compression (ridiculous idea) and the carb would bog down when you tried to accelerate quickly. Looking forward to your progress on the car!
Pushing the gas pedal half way on a carb car sets (closes) the choke. If you feel it's flooded, push and hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, which opens it. You have to hold it or you squirt more gas from the accelerator pump every time you do it. When starting it dry, the best way is to fill the fuel bowls from the breather in the center of the venturi, and just a shot into the barrel. It will run off the bowl until it empties. Once it fires and runs for a few seconds, the oil pressure has built and no need to continue to lube the pistons.
Just watched this Fury video and love the story that is attached to how the car became yours. If the Fury was mine I would swap out the 2 barrel carb for a Holly 4 barrel carb, I have always been a big fan of the Holly 4 barrel carbs. On the brake issue, it looked to me as if all the brake lines needed to be blead. I am a big oldies car fan and my dad taught me a lot about old cars, so I just wanted to pass on my opinion.
Keep it stock. Rare surviver . Fun fact for you. I had a 318 in a 1984 dodge truck and the distributor needed changed and when I did and looked up the firing order it was the same as a small block chevy. See if your 66 318 is the same . Love your channel , you guys are awesome!!
Great post you two are such nice people! You both know how to show such kindness to family and others lives through your actions, good job and yes that will be such an awesome car with it's new life, make it a great evening, jw
That car is old like me. You have to give it some pumps before every cold start, not when it's warm or you will flood it. The brake pedal is that big so can use both feet to stop it. Life in '66, 4 wheel drum brake = 2 feet.
The 318 polyshere is a good engine. Perhaps just keep it simple and rebuild or replace the 2 barrel carb? Once you get it running properly, I think you will be pleased with how well the 318 performs. It has lots of torque and is ruggedly dependable. It is similar to a Mopar Big Block in many ways. It was a bridge between smaller displacement big blocks and the later LA Small Block. I swapped my 318 poly for a big block 440 in my 64 D100. Physical demensions and motor mounts were pretty close. I was able to reuse several items in the swap. Its been fun with the big block and "tinkering", but I am seriously considering reinstalling the poly. Its on the engine stand now for a refresh and possible intake from another source. I will leave that as a mystery for now, as I am "figurin and fabricatin" that out as I go. I enjoyed your video. Keep up the good times.
The Ball and Ball carter carburetor were functional and were standard equipment for that model and year. Rebuild the 2 bbl Ball and Ball and enjoy it , they worked well !
My step father bought a new 1960 Plymouth Fury , 318 always dependable. It was quick just too much weight to be fast even a 4 barrel would have been nice. Great, dual exhaust.
I personally am one for restoring to factory condition. Find someone that can rehab that front seat and dashboard. Buy a new carburetor, do a rebuild on the engine, transmission, etc. The paint looks good , bit if at closer look you need bodywork than repaint it the original factory color. You might want to watch some episodes of Graveyard Carz to get some tips on decoding the tags and Vin number.
Fix the alternator bracket, get an msd box, and for the carb, get a rockchester from a 283 chevy.Youll have to play with the linkages a bit for it to work with the gas pedal and kickdown linkage, but its simple. Use the coldest burning spark polugs.Itll do better on gas and have good power.
A plastic water bottle with a small hole in the lid works better. Once you get it running use the same type of bottle with transmission fluid. The transmission fluid provides some lubrication and breaks op the carbon. Make sure you don’t let it die while squirting small amounts of transmission fluid in.
My husband & I are watching this together and both of us think you should wet sand the paint down to bring out the blue (aqua) to a patina look. Then you can keep the aqua blue interior color to match it. ❤❤❤
I had more chuckles watching you 2 stumble around this car. But prior to that "I don't want to do things twice" LOL Just fix the carb and that ole 318 will fly. I bought a Satellite new in '68 as an option. 273 was standard. Lighter then that Fury though.
I’m sorry to hear about losing your friend. Treat that car with respect because if you do, it should provide you many years of trouble free enjoyment. The engine is the 318 Poly. Yes it IS a small block A series, and 67 was its last year of production. The 68 and newer 318 is the LA (late A) series engine. They are great engines but are hard to get performance parts for and there hadn’t been a factory stock 4bbl for that engine since 62. They are actually pretty peppy when you consider how small that stock 2 bbl carb is. There ARE parts from the newer LA 318 that fit it but not the heads or intake manifold. It’s expensive to do but there have been stroker 318 Poly engines built to 500 HP. The heads on these engines make them really WIDE which is why some people are confused by them and call them a big block or wide block when the actual engine block is dimensionally the same as the newer “small block” LA version of it. As for pulling it out with the Bronco, that Fury outweighs the Bronco by a substantial amount and there was no way that small ratchet strap would be strong enough to pull it out and the Bronco having those wide tires on it on grass is not likely to be able to pull it without spinning the tires. I suggest that you change the transmission fluid and filter before doing anything else as it could be the transmission fluid has separated and the paraffin wax is plugging the filter and starving the transmission of the fluid it needs to function.. (I’ve had it happen to me otherwise I would have been skeptical of even hearing of such things. In my case after changing the transmission fluid and filter, it worked fine and was still doing great when I sold the car several years later.)
A good friend had one of those Plymouth Fury cars, and by the early 1980's (when he decided to trade it in) the dealership offered him $50.00 as a good will gesture. He decided to sell it for scrap. and they told him they could only give him $75.00. What did he do? Gave it to his teenage son-who hated it-along with a shotgun and a box of shells. After that it was only good for grating cheese. Not certain if there is anything to say, other than I would likely just put money into something else. Oh, and I love you guys.
That metallic seafoam green was popular in the mid 1960s. My family had a 66 Fury 4 door with that paint color and we later got a 65 Chevrolet Bel Air with same color. It is interesting that the 65 66 models with power brakes had a single master cylinder wheras the 68s had dual cylinders. The worst thing about those 318s, I had several mid-late 1960s models, with air conditioning is that every last item: power steering, AC compressor, & Alternator were all bolted through the water pump, and the fan had long bolts that required removing the radiator to get the fan off. Don't even get me started on the rubber motor and transmission mounts either.😖 The fuel pump was an easy job. Your battery going dead was probably the voltage regulator that was bolted to the firewall on the 68s. Good luck getting it restored.
That's a 318 poly. Solid lifters and fairly high compression. More fuel, fill the bowl through the vent. If you need help with parts let me know. I've been a avid 65 and 66 Fury owner all my life.
maybe they could put in a 426 max wedge in there :O
Poly 318 are great engines
I might need some help eventually. I have a 65 fury that's complete, but was disassembled 20 years ago. I'm not sure I know where everything goes.
@@mattc3152 first you have to know what everything IS !
Perhaps you might enjoy following along as I get my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban back into full functional daily driver.
th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
I had a '64 Polara 500 - basically the Dodge version of the Plymouth Sport Fury. One owner when I got it. Owned that car for 16 years, went from 68K miles to 337K miles. Had the 318 Poly. Was a tad tired when I traded the car, but still ran like a champ. Heads were never off!
My unsolicited suggestions for your Fury III are: clean up engine bay. Find air cleaner. Rebuild original carb - will make enough power to be surprising and net about 17 MPG. Change all fluids and fix the original A/C. That factory V-2 compressor is bulletproof. All parts are still available, though some are a bit tough to come by. Join MOPARTS forum - free and people will embrace you and be very helpful. Make the car safe, original and enjoy it. Fantastic road car, BTW.
Be careful with the power washer. it will hurt the trim. Please keep the stickers and original dealer emblem. Very cool. OEM color is turquoise. Very pretty. "Kid" is great. The windows are tinted [not the film you pulled off] from the factory with A/C. Just Dashes will make the dash look new. Best spark plugs I found for my 318 were: Autolite 85. Belden plug wires. Have fun!
Killer video! That Fury looks sharp as can be. And thanks for the shout out Aaron!
You’re awesome, Chris 😎
Just subscribed to your channel! I'm enjoying it! Perhaps you might like following along with the repairs on my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban. th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
@@flyingsparksgarage there is a scammer in the comments pretending to be you. Their username starts with Telegram
@@flyingsparksgarage I heard about you guys from another youtuber, and then you posted this Fury video that popped up on my feed.
I have three of these and that's a Canadian 318 Polyspheric headed engine. They were the standard workhorse until 1966. They get GREAT mileage in stock trim and that little two barrel isn't bad at all with a fresh kit in it.
If you want information about the car, check out the fender tag decoder online, and put in the numbers on your fender tag and you will find out all the factory specs on your Fury.
If you aren't familiar with that carb, I would be happy to refurbish it for you, and tune it on one of my 318's so you could bolt it on and rock & roll.
There's allot of folks in the Mopar hobby that know allot about those C bodies. The community is as old as the cars are, and then some, in some cases, Lol
Gas with Marvel Mystery Oil will work very well when first starting an engine for the first time in a while, but it's no substitute for pulling the spark plugs and squirting some down the cylinders. Also, you really should pull the distributor and reach down with an attachment on a drill and spin the oil pump up for about two minutes to allow all the crank and camshaft bearings to be lubricated before you even turn the motor over or you stand a good chance of wiping all the bearings in the motor. This will also help the lifters to pump once the engine turns over. THEN you turn the engine over for 15 seconds without the plugs installed to clear the Marvel from the cylinders and fully coat them. THEN you put he plugs back in and the wires on. THEN you spray a little starter fluid with lube (some starter fluid comes with lubricant, some doesn't) down the carb, and THEN you try to start it.
Guys, thank you way fun. Many of us that do power tour look for small block Mopars like this one. If it was mine I would put a fuel injection system on the car. Not a bigger carb and stay with the small intake so the gas mileage on the power tour was good. I would make sure the air conditioning works if it has air if not vintage air it. I would replace the front seat, either go full on stock vinyl replacement bench or buckets from something newer. Headliner replaced, remove the padded dash completely, upgrade to 3 point basest belts and drive it. Make it a really comfortable cruiser. I would have a cheap respray in the original color, likely use a single stage paint. New tires keep the wheels, drive it on the next power tour in honor of your friend and ride in style and comfort this next year.
Beautiful fury. It's a 318 poly sometimes also referred to as a 318 wide block, I had 66 fury II 4dr with the same engine and 2bbl and it would flat out move and do every bit of the 120 speedo. Looking forward to seeing the progress on it
Also called a "semi hemi" due to canted, I think, intake valves. Damn near bullet proof.
Definitely accelerator pump. When the throttle just opens, there isn't much air moving through the carb pulling on the ventury pulling gas out of the bowl. So, the accelerator pump gives it that extra bit of fuel until the air flow starts putting fuel.
You have a "flat spot" as it was called. Before fuel injection.
Being a Chevy guy, I didn’t like these cars back in the sixties, but now I think it’s beautiful.
This brought back so many memories. Prior to leaving for military sercive, SE Asia, in 1968 I had a '65 Plymouth Fury III 2D-HT 383cu. 4bbl, 4 speed. Loved that car. It was painted the same color as the original color of yours. Sold it before shipping out to Vietnam because I wasn't sure I'd actually make it back home. After I returned I bought a '66 Plymouth Satellite 2D-HT again with a 383 4bbl, 4 speed which I turned into a drag car. Mopar big blocks, 383, 440, and hemi's have the distributor in the front of the engine. The small blocks 273 and 318 had it in the rear. These cars are though but heavy and I tore up several rear ends when you put allot of power to that much weight. I also worked in the service department of the Chrysler/Plymouth dealership. If these cars sit without being driven the brake wheel cyl. rust on the inside and start leaking the fluid out all over the brake shoes and you have no pressure. Check inside the drums before you put too much effort into those brakes. Glad to see you back. I also have a little 4 1/2lb. female Yorkie. They are such great dogs. Good luck.
thank you for your service
I had a 64 Fury as a kid, so nice to hear that engine. It is in fact a scallop head 318. hence the pattern on the bottoms of the valve covers. I would say start with an overhaul kit for the bbd carter carb, Champion copper core plugs cap rotor and wires. Get some fresh gas in the tank and check the timing. Not sure if the distributor is electronic or has points and condenser like mine, did seem like it was running ragged. Transmissions on those were pretty bullet proof. good luck! Oh and change out the ballast resistor for the ignition as well.
Terry Blake if you keep the same firing system ( points, condenser, plugs, distributor, coil) the car needs the same ballast resister. The ballast resister reduces the voltage used to incite the coil because it is triggered with stored charge in the condenser by the opening & closing of the points. The lower voltage increases the life of the points and helps prevent the points from burning.
@UC8ncy7e0sC2kYiKvOGfJiUg yes you are correct. When the ignition switch is turned to the “spring loaded start”;position, the resister is by passed and full battery voltage is supplied to excite the ignition coil just to assist starting and when the ignition switch is released it returns to the “on” position which connects the resister’s 9 volts to help keep the points from arcing and burning. That is the reason the start position is spring loaded so as soon as the engine fires up, just release the switch and it will automatically go to “on”!
im a lifelong mechanic, always used carb cleaner, you could spray it while cranking, and keep it running once started, also if you want to clear out a flooded engine put the pedal to the floor and crank this gives the motor max air, also bad gas/ fouled plugs can keep a car from starting even if you have good spark, timing, and compression, wet plugs dont spark very well.
Speaking of the kid, I was thinking this would be a great project for her. Let it be hers to work on until she is 16!!! She may drive it sooner, but we will never say!! Wow she is getting big!!!
You should get a wrap or decal that says in memory of your friend that owned the car
This is so great because I asked her if she wanted to repaint this car to it’s original color and be her car and she was like WHAT?!?!! EMI!! And I just smiled at her 😅 Soooo who knows!!
@@flyingsparksgarage can you keep the female off the cars and doing the mans works..... we all know she dont know wtf she is doing, just in the video for eyecandy
@@resenddelete6820 get the heck out of here with that kind of talk. Emily does plenty of wrenching.
@@resenddelete6820 take your negative Nancy talk elsewhere to a different channel if you don't like what you see here, keep in mind that nobody forced you to watch their video!
318 with a Stromberg WW carb. Excellent work! I rebuilt many of those carbs, plus 2 engines and a 727 Torqueflight since we had two 65's and one '66 Fury in our family growing up. Two wagons and one sedan. You couldn't kill them!
Those old 318's were some bad ass engines and easy to work on. I would try to keep this as stock as possible, it is awesome just the way it is. Ya just can't run down to the Chrysler dealer ship and get another one like it. Respect it for what it is, it was unique in its day and still is. Love your site.
they were when new.be smoking and wore out by 50,000 if you drove it hard
@@briandetrick2688 Thats funny. I have had several as well as a lot of people that I have known and as long as you kept the oil changed every 3000 miles and tuned it up a couple times a year, they would run upward to 200 thousand miles easily.
@@leslietarboxjr4287 -> Yep, my sister had one in the mid seventies - would bring it to us for an oil change if the light didn't go off after a curve. Dad could hear it pull in the farm driveway - "Judy's here for an oil change". - LOL You couldn't kill it, she tried.
most likely a 318 for that year would be nice if you could drop in a340 it looks like the body is worth saving if you could find a donor car you might even get a better interior
It's a wide block 318. Not the same as an LA Mopar small block, I.e. 340 /360
Sweet, had a 66 Plymouth Fury Commando 383 Ex F.B.I. car. That was one hell of a car. Go 4 barrel Carter, dump the Master Cylinder for the brakes, change the front drum and rear drum brakes to disk conversion because when it rains or going through a puddle the front and rear drums won't stop. The wheel bearings also were not good for that year either, they burn out and weld on to the spindle. I know the later years for the Fury had a second fuel filter in the gas tank so check if there is a filter in the gas tank as well as at the engine. Yes replace the starter and alternator and the water plugs on the engine block may leak. Good luck on the rebuild, that is one nice car.
4:55 318 Polysphere is a "A" series engine, it is not a small block. The 273 and 318 (and 340) Small Block is a "LA" series engine. Virtually no parts interchange with the 318 Small Block. A 4bbl aluminum intake was available from several speed part vendors but you will need to look on the used market to find one now.
You are correct sir this is not a small block it is not a big block it's an intermediate block
What Kent said.
The 318 Poly is a small block. You can put LA heads on a poly, with a oil drain tube, and AMC lifters. The blocks are almost identical. I own them both.
It was also available with 2 4bbls with the V-800 package sporting 290 HP. Very rare option.
Parts are available. 4bbl, dual 4bbl, cams, headers. Not cheap. Motors are reliable. I say build it. It will not be mainstream. And those R12 AC systems got ice cold. Looks like a dive pump. Lol
Pro tip; start washing at the top (door panels, seats etc.) and work your way to the bottom. Then you don't get dirt/debris over what you've just cleaned. Great video, love that you've included "the kid" as part of the project.
A better reason for starting at the top of the car when doing a wash job. Using a rag mop or a soft bristle washing brush The top has quite a bit less road/ street debris like mud, dust, small stones, etc than the lower sections of car especially at wheel level near fenders and along doors. If the lower sections are washed before the top then the possibility of having some of the debris still clinging to wash mop or brush even after dipping it back into the bucket washing liquid soap solution. THE DEBRIS ABSOLUTELY WILL SCRATCH THE PAINTED SURFACES AND WINDOW GLASS !
Also recommend getting the master cylinder with two chambers. Looks like your brakes may be sticking causing the trouble moving her.
First things first, for a '66 Plymouth Fury III, she's really clean and solid... Secondly, it is a 318 Poly engine; I would first check and change the accelerator pump and then switch it over to a four-barrel carburetor and possibly get it fuel-injected... Also, improve the master cylinder and alternator because it looks nervous and probably in time needs to be replaced... Also the A/C needs attention too but it's a great ride once its finished.........
Definitely a 318 poly aka 318 wide block main difference is the heads and valve angle. Consider it the grandfather to the hemi. Very little interchange on the top end.
Arch nemesis
The poly was actually an offshoot of the hemi, the first hemi came out in 1951and the poly engine didn’t come out until 1955 making it the grandson of the hemi
the Poly exposes itself with the bottom edge of the valve cover having a sawtooth look to it. Plymouth came out with the Poly because Plymouth was the budget level version of Ma Mopar and the Hemi was too expensive to produce but there was a need for a V8 to go up against Ford's Y block and the Chevy mouse motor. The A motor has a unique valve arrangement seen again on the Jeep 4.7 but kept the Hemi's lifter valley setup, creating a weird pushrod angle seen on the LA (Little A) blocks that came out after 1967.
The engine is an A 318; a predecessor of the LA 318 which became Mopars go to engine in 1967. Parts were fun to find in the 1980s when I had a 66 F3 2door. I painted it black from original white and the red interior just popped ! Weiand sold high rise intakes for this engine. Old drag racers said the engine was a favorite with a cult following. Mine had a 727 torqueflite transmission. Love this bodystyle! Thanks for sharing this joyrney. Good luck and God Bless yall from NC.
As a diehard Mopar fan I vote for a thermoquad. Love the 66 full size plymouths, my favorite is a belvedere. Nice addition to your family
Thermoquad is a wonderful carb! I run one in my hot 360 dart sport. It runs like a champ. Even with a big cam.
Thank You for the correction. The Dealership ‘s offer must have must have been a scam. I had owned the Plymouth for just a year prior to getting my orders to report to Vietnam in June 1966. I thought I may have been confused about the year/ model 1965-66 but I purchased it in the spring of 1965 just prior to the shut off of the 65 models. The 66 models were due in Sept 1965!
Sorry for the loss of your friend! My brother and I had a 66 Fury 3 with a 383 big block with that turquoise blue color ! It was a cool car. 👍🏻😎🇺🇸🦅🙏🏻😇thanks for the memories!
Great video. I don't know much about Mopar's but on my Chevy inline six 292 I have 2 Quick Fuel 650 double pumpers. I also have a 6-71. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You guys always cheer this old Veteran up.
Poly 318 with a 727. Quick tip- before dropping it into gear, especially after sitting awhile, put the transmission in neutral. The pump doesn't start up in park, so put it in neutral a few seconds to get the ATF circulating. Just going from park to reverse or drive is hard on the transmission.
The Polyshere 318 is a very torque-y motor. A cam, headers, a 4-bbl & intake and that 318 will surprise you
Definitely worth getting a 4bbl + intake manifold for it. I have owned a few 318 polys and they are great engines. They can be pretty potent if you want to go that route. Had a 318 poly 4bbl out a 59 Fury in a 1950 Dodge step side pickup. That was .030 over, RV cam, not much else and it was a tire fryer. Good torque from these engines.
Wow, I never realized that the 318 Polys were such torquey little engines. Closest I got was a 1984 Ramcharger with a 360 LA that I swapped for a 5.9 Magnum due to consistent vapor lock and me not knowing anything about carbs.
Just a friendly suggestion… refrain from hammering on a battery terminal (6:50) to get them to seat on the post. The battery case can crack and leak electrolyte or even short internally. Best to use a terminal spreading plier (cheap) or other tool to open the terminal before placing it on the post.
Also in very rare instances using a metal tool on a positive post can accidentally form a live circuit if the negative terminal is already connected. Seen it happen and it’s not pretty.
I have watched your shows for quite a while now and have thoroughly enjoyed them. But today I was surprised at the lack of knowledge for starting a car that had been sitting for so long. Bad gas for one. Also when you opened the hood and saw the nest the better thing would have been to clear out the motor a little better so junk isn't sucked down the carb that has no cover. The wheels and brakes are probably rusted tight and if you keep horsing it the trans will most likely pile up. Please slow down and take some time to check out the systems before trying to drive all over with that beautiful car.
EXACTLY what I thought about the brakes being locked up and not a trans problem. LOL. Seemed pretty obvious from here but it may not be true
yes, gasoline is not a forever magic fuel! for being car restorers many steps were missed. but still like the channel.
that was painful
YES AGREE.,. Then ripping the insulation from above an open Carburetor with Dirt Falling in it...UGH...The engine is probably a 360. COVER Your Carbs before Ripping out Stuff from above it. Your friend was Probably rolling watching this...LOL..
And yet here it is ,,,in the front under its own power and gettin clean as a whistle.
Hey guys y'all are exactly spot on ! The accelerator pump is that part of the problem! Depending on what you really want ; the two barrel rebuilt will run really good! I know this is what you want to hear, is a four barrel on an aluminum high rise will bring a bigger smile to your face!! I'd drop the pan on the transmission and change the filter and it should be fine. It doesn't sound like the previous owner abused it. You might check for leaks at the wheel cylinders and shoes also. Yeah nobody likes to beat on the starter ( how embarrassing) in a crowded parking lot!! That is the nicest looking Fury that Plymouth ever made and y'all are sooooo fortunate to have such a beautiful ride. Hopefully I could help some. Y'all take care and enjoy!!
P.S. If your daughter use a power washer on my car and make it look that good ( SHE'S HIRED )!! My car has some rust and needs a driver's side quarter panel. Sorry looks like I'm writing another best seller that won't make it to print!! Good night!
My grand mother had a 68 fury that I drove for a while. My mother had a 73 Satellite. Love these old Mopars. Love this car.
The little lady has good control with that pressure washer. Great job. The car looks great.
My Great Uncle had 1960 or 61 Fury I 4 door with push button transmission.
My first car in 1979 was a 73 two door Satellite with a 318. Loved that car.
Just a tip Take an empty gear oil bottle with the funnel top (Aka a blown engine squirted) Put the funnel in the float bowl Saves flooding the carb from pouring down the throat Also we check for spark first If the cylinders are dry no oil then flooding it will really was the cylinder walls Brakes are hung up good luck
It should be a 318 That was a really strong engine 💪
Yes, the accelerator pump is the issue. I would LOVE to have it for my project car!
I love your channel. I'm 70 and retired, with too much time on my hands. I was a mechanic by trade,
and really want something like that to restore.
WE ALL LOVE DEREK!!! #VGG for life!
God Bless Aaron, Gone but never forgotten
My Dad had a 1965 Plymouth Belvedere back in the '80s. I didn't like it then, but wished I had it now. New respect.
Fill the float bowl with fuel via the bowl vent. Saves a lot of cranking. The vent is the tube sticking out of the carb on top.
Yes, there has to be gas in the bowls for the accelerator pumps to work ! You can't get gas in the bowls by dumping gas down the carb throats and you'll mess up the accelerator pumps pumping a dry carb.
You're 100% correct. A little starting fluid to get things going wouldn't have hurt either.
old cafe style ketchup and mustard squezze bottles work great.
@@dougjustdoug6391 some cranking is good. Builds oil pressure.
What you have here is a 1966 Plymouth Fury with what is known as a 318 Polyspherical combustion chamber "A" engine. It was introduced by Plymouth in 1956 as a 270 CID engine, It grew to 318 in 1957 and is what was under the hood of Christine. In 1964 the first "LA" 273 was introduced which is based on this same block with some changes made to accommodate the wedge heads. In 1967 the polyhead was dropped and the 318 got wedge heads like the 273, also the bigger bore 340 was introduced. Then in the early '70s the 360 with a longer stroke was introduced. Then in the early '90s, the magnum V8 was introduced with its heritage going back to this engine. You can use the timing chain and gears, the crank, the distributor, oil pump, oil filter, water pump, oil pan from any 318, 1962 and newer, also transmissions, The carburetor is a Carter B&B which has a small baseplate, pretty much standard on318s and even the same as a 283 Chevy carb.. Strictly Polyhead parts can be had like aluminum valve covers, aluminum intake, headers etc but they're not cheap.also performance camshafts. It also has solid lifters. If it were me, I would put a Mopar performance electronic ignition in it and a Holley throttle body fuel injection for a 2 bbl intake. .A good place for you to get educated on these engines is on facebook... facebook.com/groups/542278482490634/ These engines wake up with a little cam, carb and ignition work They have canted valves like a 351 Ford Cleveland or big block Chevy but with smaller diameter ports so they make gobs of torque on the street. Gary Pavolich (who is the administrator of the group I posted a link to) Is the guy to look up, he is the absolute guru on these engines and can hook you up with parts too.
I didn't know you still had that car! I remember messaging you about it when it was for sale. I'm glad they gave it to y'all, and love hearing that thing run! I wish I could have known Aaron!
Also I hate to bring this up again, but Aaron, you are a lucky lucky man. Not only is Emily absolutely beautiful, but she's also a beautiful person. She has such a big heart and loves everyone, AND she knows how to work on cars. You my friend have a rare find, and I'm sure she's made you a better man along the way. All my best to one of the best couples on TH-cam.
Sure appreciate the kindness!
love the looks of this year of plymouth - looks so nice in black- you can see why they changed the color.
Yes. Definatly one of the best lookers.
Hi there, My parents bought a '66 Fury III new in May of 1966. It was also a 2 door hardtop and was red with black interior and sold for $3,750 (almost exactly a dollar per pound). The 318 was the standard engine for the Fury III with 383 and 440 as options called commandos. The backside of the hood ornament with the option engines would have the engine displacement written on it without the mopar star with a black or red backround. Red indicated a higher horsepower set up. Possible that the 440 was only available in the sport fury which had front bucket seats and a console shifter. $ barrel carbs were not offered for this engine, but Chysler had a factory cross ram dual quad manifold for that 318 wide block, not the other 318. If you do decide to upgrade the power, DEFINITELY !! upgrade the brakes. The stock brakes are horrible. When the car was only 2 years old, I tried stopping from 120 mph and the brakes faded to almost nothing at about 70 mph. The standard rear differential is a 323:1 with a optional posi with a 352:1 (I think). The trans can handle the increased power easily. Our car got 18mpg with my mother driving, for some odd reason it only got 14mpg with me driving... Side note: the fuel tank is huge, I put 28 gallons in it once for $8.96. It was a great car but was stolen in 1977, sad. It has mechanical lifters, I can hear valve noise, so I recomend a valve adjustment. They were prone to burning exhaust valves if the clearance was too tight . Have Fun!
$ barrel oops
4 barrel, it's late
OMG! YOUR WORKING ON A FURY! I'm so excited 😁! Let's do this!
Perhaps you might enjoy following along as I work on my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban.
th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
This is the old Y block 318. It is a very strong and dependable engine. I had 2 of these in the past and they are bullet proof. I think what you need is the proper carb rebuild kit to solve your problem. They were quit common and should still be avaliable. Bill
That car has killer looks, I'd love to see it original color too. Hopefully the Mopar guys will recommend a carb that has a small fire now and then. ;)
Paging Dulcich?
This young lady is very smiley and she knows what she’s doing!
love the fury and anxious to see you get it fixed up nice... Fun video for me to watch as I love old Mopars from the '60s and have owned quite a few...
Also like the Fury-ous shirt you were wearing at the end. 👍👍
Loved watching this car five years ago, sorry about your friend. But love to see the Fury going again.
So sorry for your loss!! Keep the MOPAR going!!
Holley 80457S (600cfm, electronic choke, vacuum secondary's), or if you like simplicity, Edelbrock 1405 600cfm, manual choke. You'll also want an intake, for a stock 318, the good ol Edlebrock performer / performer RPM series (2176 for performer, 7176 for Performer RPM) would be fine, go with the performer RPM if you plan to work / replace the heads and drop in a mild cam and headers. Edelbrock also has a great set of midrange performer RPM heads that are bolt-on, 60775, under a thousand from Summit. They used to sell an awesome performer RPM top-end kit which had a 600 manual 4-barrel, the performer RPM intake and carb, a mild cam with hydraulic lifters, gaskets and a double roller timing chain set including new head bolts, but I don't think it's available anymore, and I think it was post-1973 engines anyway, although it'd probably be able to work on a 60's small block. Those kits were good for like 425HP/400TQ on a stock bottom end 360 and I think were only around $3K. Another option would be to just grab a crate engine and be done with it, something like a Summit Racing BluePrint Engines 408ci Stroker should be nearly a drop-in replacement (you'll need different distributor, ignition and coil) and can be had for under $5K after the core charge, good for at least 400HP with a decent intake and carb.
None of those parts you mentioned bolt to the Old Style A engine. They are all for an LA engine. Well, the timing chain would work.
It IS a 318.....but NOT an LA, or small block 318. It is a POLY 318. It is an earlier version from what most folks think of that would have come in your 70's Valiant or Duster. Unless you have access to an original 4bbl intake, there are not a ton of aftermarket parts readily available on the shelf for upgrading. Stock is your lock to success. They are sweet little cruisers, but not huge powerhouses.
Rebuild the carb with a proper kit, service the points ignition(assumingit hasn't been converted to electronic), service the trans, go through the brakes, lube everything in sight(suspension), and cruise the hell out of it to get ice cream on a saturday night. DONE.
Hell, I don’t know but you sound like you know! I’m voting this suggestion up. I was thinking stick with stock too from the beginning and give it a chance to see how good the motor is after running it a bit after cleaning out the fuel and a good rebuild kit in that 2 bbl.
Hi I’m Bill from Minnesota and I used to have a 65 Fury III with the 318 and automatic. My tranny did exactly what yours was doing. I think a 4 barrel carb sounds nice but then you open a can of worms locating a new intake and then linkage…. Maybe go get the correct carb kit, fix the alternator bracket and redo the front seat and enjoy it like a old friend
One of the nicest looking cars from the 60's.
The 318ci Plymouth Fury is an amazing engine and car!!! The 318 is bulletproof and parts are interchangeable with the 340's,etc. Also, my 318 with a high rise intake with Edelbrock Four Barrel Carburetor is an absolute screamer down the street. SOOO much power coming from Mopars famous Torque!!!
I love it a 66 Fury III great project and the kid did a fantastic job including aunt Emily's surprise shower LoL. Plus it's a 318 poly I'm sure of it
Check out my 318 Polly in my 1958 Plymouth Suburban. This is the first car I remember my dad owning. th-cam.com/video/9jJxV_qSNmg/w-d-xo.html
Remember, on these older cars you have a mechanical emergency brake. All you have to do is pull on the handle and keep it pulled and allow it to regulate with your hand while using the e-brake pedal to slow you or stop you. 28:04 she looks stunning, and period correct for that cars era.
Love the Kid! She has such a great personality.
When I was a young boy, my father had a 1966 Plymouth Fury III. It was a four door and I don't think it had A/C, but it was the baby blue color that your car used to be, and it had the 383 engine. I loved that car and was sorry to see it go when he got rid of it.
The young lady is a natural ! Congrats A & E.
i also own a 66 Fury. My advice as a Moparian. this is a Poly A.K.A. wide block (A engine not an LA engine) 318... yes this is a 318, you do not want to over carburate this. but the accellerator pump is not happy. just rebuild the one you have and it will prevent issues with too much carb on too small of an engine.
your mom is a hoot... love her humor
I'm 52 years old and I remember riding in the back glass of my mama's 69 Pontiac Bonneville
You guys are a treat to watch obviously not experienced in old car revivals. STUCK BRAKES
Yes. They should pull the drums to make sure the lining didn't break off when they broke it free.
My parents bought 1966 Plymouth Fury II 4 door 318 poly, It was white w the blue interior like yours. It ran like a top and we never had a problem.
Yes it came with a 318, my sister had one she handed down to me with 318 three speed on the tree and that looks exactly like the one in ours. A 500 cfm holley works great on a stock 318 from my experience. I seen it in the background of a few videos and wondered about it.
I had a black '66 Plymouth Fury a long time ago right after I finished basic training in the Army. I bought it in Salinas, California, not far from Fort Ord and drove it cross country to Fort Benning and then back home to Washington where I left it in the care of my mom when I was deployed to S.E. Asia. I never saw it again. I don't remember now what my mom said happened to it, I think one of my brothers totaled it. However, I still miss that car. It didn't have big power (318?) but it sure drove nice and to this day I wish I still had it. I think it was one of the nicest cars I ever had, it just looked right with all those straight lines. Especially in black. Mine even had the same style mag wheels.
Anytime you're bleeding brakes,put a block under the pedal so it won't go all the way to floor. Otherwise you'll probably need to replace the master cylinder. On old Mopars check trans fluid in neutral, warm,and running. Carb needs accelerater pump.
It is a 318 Polyspherical engine, they are great small blocks. The other name for them was Semi Hemi's, because of the combustion chamber. I have a couple of them, the limits are endless as far as cubic inches & h/ power. Keep it and pack it full of goodies, a stroker kit 400 + inches.
HI love the vid it was great to see. you may want to get a hold of Steve Dulcich he is a mopare guy big time he would give you some good advice on what to do with it. Steve is a good friend to Daved Frybuger in fact thay are both good with mopars great loves of them. good luck with the car looking to see more on it.
I've owned a 1965 Fury 1 and a 66 Fury 2. My mother loved the 66. 2 door ht, powder blue, 318 poly. I'm 64 now and would love to have another one in honor of my mother.
Looks like a 318. New Edlebrock Intake, Edlebrock 4 barrel carb, new valve covers. Probably could use some new plugs, plug wires and rotor. I'd test the coil to see how much it is putting out.
My first car back in 1986 was a 1966 Plymouth Fury II…318 Automatic. Only car I regret not keeping. I loved that car and wish I could find another.
Aaron to Emily: "If it catches fire you are going to have to take your shirt off to put it out"
If you want to sell it I'm sure willing to give you a offer
I had one like it in 1968 and have been looking for one
How many people were hoping for a fire lol
He’s a goober 😝
@@flyingsparksgarage 🤣
@@thman6453 this guy!
The valve covers very clearly are of a Poly-head A-block which by that point only would have been available as a 318. Not to be mistaken with the LA 318 that was used from 1968 into the 90s. The earlier Poly or semi-hemi engines were heavier but provided more torque and parts are not interchangeable.
It depends on how you plan to use it and/or what your friend would have done. And yes, he is correct that it is the accelerator pump that is bad in the carb. I am also suspicious of the front bake hoses. It looked like they were holding the front brakes on when you were trying to pull it out of the hole. Personally, I would rebuild the carb and run it as is. It sounded to me like the bearing might be going out in the alternator as well. Good luck!!
I'm a Ford guy but I really like the 318. You'll never go wrong with one of them.
This car got me into this channel. Glad to see it.
That's a 318 poly, which refers to the polyspherical cylinder head design. This heads combustion chamber is similar to that of its big brother the famed "Hemi". Keep in mind that an engine is merely a large air pump and engineers design each enigine with a specific application in mind, so before you toss a pocket full of money at an intake and carburetor, make sure the engine is capable of handling added CFM. I know the poly came with a variety of carburetor combinations, but there were a variety of camshafts that came with those also. Don't forget this car has transmission, and brake issues to begin with. Personally I would put together a plan and budget together before you go any further. As I tell any one who's come to me with a project " When a house is built you never start with the roof, plans are drawn then a sturdy foundation, next the walls, then the roof. Don't put the cart before the horse." Myself, I would assess the vehicles overall condition, get under it an make sure the undercarriage is worthy, don't forget that car had been sunk in the mud for five years. Remember bottom to top. Can't wait to see what direction you guys take. Im sure it'll provide lots of interesting U-tube content.
Good luck with your project.!
That belch was unexpectedly awesome! Bring it back to it's former glory if you can. First time watching you guys so I don't know how often you've done this. Always a good idea to pull the plugs and drop some oil in on top of the pistons and let it sit awhile, check if the fuel is any good plus check the fuel pump and filter and of course the engine and tranny oil. I had a 75 Plymouth Fury Custom 2 DR just after high school. Typical stock 318 and no guts unless you did a brake stand then haul it into drive until you blow the spider gears in the rear end...lol. These cars had starter issues, some of them had double wall exhaust that would collapse and lose compression
(ridiculous idea) and the carb would bog down when you tried to accelerate quickly. Looking forward to your progress on the car!
Pushing the gas pedal half way on a carb car sets (closes) the choke. If you feel it's flooded, push and hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, which opens it. You have to hold it or you squirt more gas from the accelerator pump every time you do it. When starting it dry, the best way is to fill the fuel bowls from the breather in the center of the venturi, and just a shot into the barrel. It will run off the bowl until it empties. Once it fires and runs for a few seconds, the oil pressure has built and no need to continue to lube the pistons.
Just watched this Fury video and love the story that is attached to how the car became yours. If the Fury was mine I would swap out the 2 barrel carb for a Holly 4 barrel carb, I have always been a big fan of the Holly 4 barrel carbs. On the brake issue, it looked to me as if all the brake lines needed to be blead. I am a big oldies car fan and my dad taught me a lot about old cars, so I just wanted to pass on my opinion.
Keep it stock. Rare surviver . Fun fact for you. I had a 318 in a 1984 dodge truck and the distributor needed changed and when I did and looked up the firing order it was the same as a small block chevy. See if your 66 318 is the same . Love your channel , you guys are awesome!!
Great post you two are such nice people! You both know how to show such kindness to family and others lives through your actions, good job and yes that will be such an awesome car with it's new life, make it a great evening, jw
That car is old like me. You have to give it some pumps before every cold start, not when it's warm or you will flood it. The brake pedal is that big so can use both feet to stop it. Life in '66, 4 wheel drum brake = 2 feet.
The 318 polyshere is a good engine. Perhaps just keep it simple and rebuild or replace the 2 barrel carb? Once you get it running properly, I think you will be pleased with how well the 318 performs.
It has lots of torque and is ruggedly dependable.
It is similar to a Mopar Big Block in many ways. It was a bridge between smaller displacement big blocks and the later LA Small Block. I swapped my 318 poly for a big block
440 in my 64 D100. Physical demensions and motor mounts were pretty close. I was able to reuse several items in the swap.
Its been fun with the big block and "tinkering", but I am seriously considering reinstalling the poly. Its on the engine stand now for a refresh and possible intake from another source. I will leave that as a mystery for now, as I am "figurin and fabricatin" that out as I go.
I enjoyed your video. Keep up the good times.
The Ball and Ball carter carburetor were functional and were standard equipment for that model and year. Rebuild the 2 bbl Ball and Ball and enjoy it , they worked well !
My step father bought a new 1960 Plymouth Fury , 318 always dependable. It was quick just too much weight to be fast even a 4 barrel would have been nice. Great, dual exhaust.
I personally am one for restoring to factory condition. Find someone that can rehab that front seat and dashboard. Buy a new carburetor, do a rebuild on the engine, transmission, etc. The paint looks good , bit if at closer look you need bodywork than repaint it the original factory color. You might want to watch some episodes of Graveyard Carz to get some tips on decoding the tags and Vin number.
got my drivers license with my dad's 65 Plymouth Fury 383 commando 2 door hardtop gold black vinyl roof. Loved that car and FAST
Fix the alternator bracket, get an msd box, and for the carb, get a rockchester from a 283 chevy.Youll have to play with the linkages a bit for it to work with the gas pedal and kickdown linkage, but its simple. Use the coldest burning spark polugs.Itll do better on gas and have good power.
318 poly. Semi-Hemi. Great engine. Two different 4brrl aluminum intakes available. Love the car. Leave the Poly :)
Wonderful family, your daughter has your personality.
A plastic water bottle with a small hole in the lid works better. Once you get it running use the same type of bottle with transmission fluid. The transmission fluid provides some lubrication and breaks op the carbon. Make sure you don’t let it die while squirting small amounts of transmission fluid in.
My husband & I are watching this together and both of us think you should wet sand the paint down to bring out the blue (aqua) to a patina look. Then you can keep the aqua blue interior color to match it. ❤❤❤
I had more chuckles watching you 2 stumble around this car. But prior to that "I don't want to do things twice" LOL
Just fix the carb and that ole 318 will fly. I bought a Satellite new in '68 as an option. 273 was standard. Lighter then that Fury though.
The Fury is one sweet machine. None are perfect…but she’s sweet. Blessings y’all.
Helped my son in law build his Z300 TT. Amazing Machines WOW and its red :-) Good Luck with Her.
I’m sorry to hear about losing your friend. Treat that car with respect because if you do, it should provide you many years of trouble free enjoyment. The engine is the 318 Poly. Yes it IS a small block A series, and 67 was its last year of production. The 68 and newer 318 is the LA (late A) series engine. They are great engines but are hard to get performance parts for and there hadn’t been a factory stock 4bbl for that engine since 62. They are actually pretty peppy when you consider how small that stock 2 bbl carb is. There ARE parts from the newer LA 318 that fit it but not the heads or intake manifold. It’s expensive to do but there have been stroker 318 Poly engines built to 500 HP. The heads on these engines make them really WIDE which is why some people are confused by them and call them a big block or wide block when the actual engine block is dimensionally the same as the newer “small block” LA version of it. As for pulling it out with the Bronco, that Fury outweighs the Bronco by a substantial amount and there was no way that small ratchet strap would be strong enough to pull it out and the Bronco having those wide tires on it on grass is not likely to be able to pull it without spinning the tires. I suggest that you change the transmission fluid and filter before doing anything else as it could be the transmission fluid has separated and the paraffin wax is plugging the filter and starving the transmission of the fluid it needs to function.. (I’ve had it happen to me otherwise I would have been skeptical of even hearing of such things. In my case after changing the transmission fluid and filter, it worked fine and was still doing great when I sold the car several years later.)
I was just looking for updates on the 300Z the other day.
This Fury should be yalls 2023 PT car.
A good friend had one of those Plymouth Fury cars, and by the early 1980's (when he decided to trade it in) the dealership offered him $50.00 as a good will gesture. He decided to sell it for scrap. and they told him they could only give him $75.00.
What did he do? Gave it to his teenage son-who hated it-along with a shotgun and a box of shells. After that it was only good for grating cheese.
Not certain if there is anything to say, other than I would likely just put money into something else.
Oh, and I love you guys.
Aaron and Emily, I personally like the Holley four barrel carburetor. Be size if’s been good enough for NASCAR since 1957.
That metallic seafoam green was popular in the mid 1960s. My family had a 66 Fury 4 door with that paint color and we later got a 65 Chevrolet Bel Air with same color. It is interesting that the 65 66 models with power brakes had a single master cylinder wheras the 68s had dual cylinders. The worst thing about those 318s, I had several mid-late 1960s models, with air conditioning is that every last item: power steering, AC compressor, & Alternator were all bolted through the water pump, and the fan had long bolts that required removing the radiator to get the fan off. Don't even get me started on the rubber motor and transmission mounts either.😖
The fuel pump was an easy job. Your battery going dead was probably the voltage regulator that was bolted to the firewall on the 68s.
Good luck getting it restored.