Advantages and disadvantages of split wheels/single piece bias ply vs radial tires 
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Today On what it’s like discussion episode Friday this is an episode where I did it so you don’t have to is it worth upgrading split rims to single piece and radial tires instead of bias ply that’s what we’re going to answer in this episode enjoy
If you’d like to get in touch with me for any reason whatsoever maybe you have a car that you would like Reviewed shoot me a comment in the comment section below or check out our Facebook group that correlates with his TH-cam channel if you don’t have Facebook and would like to reach me shoot me an email at
What_its_like@yahoo.com
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Asia, only time will tell , that style of wheel you refer to as a Dayton wheel is more commonly known throughout the industry as a Budd wheel/rim, they both came out in the mid 19 teens but the Budds were heavier duty coming in 10 bolt pattern and from 20 inch diameter to 24.5 inch the Dayton company was a medium duty rim that I believe maxed out at 20 inch diameter and had less rated capacity, the budds are still the common rim for container chassis world wide due to ease of changing right in the port facility and commanality , ps. In your video on the 34 hupmobile you were referring to those rims as arterial rims they are pronounced artillery wheels which I believe stemmed from that type metal rim/wheel being used on the towed artillery guns in ww1 thanks again for the videos jay
Congratulations you got it man I’m really impressed. =) I struggle with the word artillery I can’t say it. My tongue gets tied and twisted I need to work on that word. =)
Glad you dig this episode
you can't mix bias and radials.....the vehicle will "walk" around on the road.
I did that as well that part I couldn’t find the video for it Internet said that you could do that it’s a lie top speed is 45 mph tops otherwise you could feel the rear end sway like it would do a 180 on you..
It’s got a full set of radials on it now
Hi Jay!; Too bad those wheels and tires didn't work out!! Thanks for taking us for a ride in your truck, though, pretty COOL!
I have a real good friend who is a mechanic I’m gonna take it down to him one day and see what his thoughts are.. it’s just ride so rough if I can figure out the roughy ride I will probably just keep it the way it is because finding somebody to do the split rooms that was the whole reason why I went this route besides it being more cost-effective to do it this way
Great to see your ride Jay. Have you had your drive shaft checked to see if it's out of balance, have you checked your universal joints, even for a worn gearbox mount? All or any could be exacerbating the vibration through the drive line leading you to think it's a wheel/tire problem. As you said the vibration was there even with the Bias ply tires fitted although not as prominent so it's a problem that occurs with both sets of wheels which might indicate an under laying problem else where. Sometimes it's always the things you least expect!
Radial tires also need to be broken in, they will settle in, the belts in the tire need to conform to weight distribution. Any vehicle riding an I beam front axle with leaf springs will always be a bumpy ride even if you install different shocks, new brushing and have the leaf spring re tensioned. That's why most older trucks/semi trucks have air ride seats, a leaf spring set up is still one of the best weight baring suspension systems that's why they are still being used. they have been used for centuries dating back to horse drawn carriages and buggies.
Most truck builders especially European truck builders are moving towards airbags now because the airbag technology has come a long way and airbags take up less room and are fully independent. Also check to see if your leaf spring shackles are moving freely, pump in some grease, make sure the bushes aren't perished and the king pins don't have play in them.
If it's not broke don't fix it but Prevention is better than the cure which can save you headaches, basic maintenance is always a must.
The The vibration WASNT there with the bias tires I got to get better at dictation or just saying words that part trailed off my speech I need to improve my speech is what I’m getting at.. lol
Thank you so much for all that info
The one positive bias ply is sticking out in my head is it corrects finicky handling and replaces it with wandering and I’m wondering if the finickiness was always there but the bias plys hid it
@@What.its.like. Mate your video's are great, ramble on all you like, I look forward to your video's. I asked you early last week about covering a 1936 Studebaker 2T2 if you ever come across one in your travels, could you keep your eyes open for a 1929 Chevrolet Roadster, I own one of them also and would love you to do an episode on the model, it was the first Chevy to come out with a 6 cylinder and for the price of a 4. Keep up the great work Jay.
Do you know me I’m looking for 30s cars man I love the 30s in the 50s frankly those are my two favorite eras and the orphan cars from any era.
AMC gremlin is coming I’m hoping today but I’m not entirely sure I got a lot of stuff going on. Today
Thank you so much for digging the channel =)
Thank you for maintaining a classic! Neat old truck!
I love my truck =)
You are DEFINITELY right about the roads in PA.
I can't count over the years they ripped up and fixed the PA. turnpike... Only to have it turn cr***y in just a month
There’s a reason tractor trailers have airbags.. Believe it or not the roads are better in Ohio.. but then again most everything is better in Ohio except the weather that’s very much the same if not worse depending on location.
Jay, man you impress the hell out of me. Wife likes your vids too.
That’s awesome thank you so much there’s some information I totally forgot to put in that episode I might make a short about it
Also...the Bias tire had strong sidewalls and the road "Flex" was done on the tread surface.
With the radials, the tread is strong and the sidewalls are weak to take up the road flex in the sidewall instead of on the tread. This is why you can feel the difference. Happened for me too when I replaced my Oldsmobile Bias Belted tires with radials...more grip.
That’s why I’m thinking the ride was better in the truck was because the sidewalls were strong and the tread pattern flexed so when you hit a pothole it wasn’t as catastrophic as it is now.
I should have my wife follow me and I hit one of those it’s almost like a road damn it doesn’t happen all the time but a lot of times when the road meets a bridge in Pennsylvania there’s a threshold if you will or a bump sort of like a speed bump but not quite I hit one of those go and 70 the other day and I legit Lee flew out of my seat thank God the roof is high otherwise I would’ve smashed my head off the ceiling and it probably would’ve hurt really bad.
@@What.its.like. Be careful out there!
Beautiful truck! I’m not saying anything you don’t know - part of the experience of keeping an older vehicle going is chasing the issues. But, in trade, we get marvelous mechanical machines that can be maintained with brain power and common tools. Thanks as always ~ Chuck
Thank you so much =) i’ve honestly learned a lot from this whole experience I totally forgot a couple tidbits of information that I want to share I might make a short for that. It’s definitely useful information to somebody that’s looking to go that route
Here in Britain, Bias-ply was/is known as Cross-ply. I've driven stuff like Morris Minors, Ford Anglias etc on cross-plys but can't imagine driving something large and powerful on them , I recall it was alarming how they follow every indent on the road. My only experience of split rims are on old Vespa and Lambretta scooters and never realised there were so many types on cars and trucks tbh. Great video.
I’ve driven both cars and trucks with bias tires what I found is if the tire is bigger it rides better it’s weird I’ve driven other cars where they have put radials on them and took the bias off and he did not drive that great.
It’s just an interesting topic that’s for sure especially if you’re looking at doing it the Internet makes it sound like it’s this cut and dry solution but it’s turning out not to be the case
I just wanted to show the problems that I ran into while doing this I’m not a rich man by any stretch of the imagination I bought everything relatively cheap if you paid a ton of money for the rims I would be really disappointed I mean I’m disappointed but I’d put an adjective in front of it and might’ve been even angry.. lol and I’m not an angry person by any stretch of the imagination I’m one of the most happy go lucky people are probably ever meet in your life lol =)
Thank you for sharing with us Jay! I hope your disappointments are turned around, you do a great job!
I’m a happy go lucky type of person my glass is always half full, not half empty lol
Just this past week was it was one thing after another and go to technical difficulties but summer is coming and they’ll be lots of cars to shoot honestly can’t wait to see what this season has in store =)
Having worked for a city government for 25 years, budgeting dictates how road issues are addressed. If the counsels priorities are giving money to people who refuse to work or would rather do drugs all day, the roads get the short end of the budget.
I live in the country they even tar and chip the highways.. cheapest way possible
Great video, but you missed the Bias Belted tire!
Bias Belted tires came out between the Bias Ply tire but before the Radial (except in Europe with Dunlop, etc)
The Bias Belted tire has the same "weave" as the Bias Ply tire, however, there are additional steel bands on top of the 45% angle Bias weave that run north and south around the tire. I had them on my 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass. Look them up online.
Thank you so much for that inclusion I left it out for simplicity.. I didn’t talk about the poly glass ones from the 60s either.. One day will break down all the different tires pros and cons to each one
@@What.its.like. That would be good! I have a tire book from the early 1970's that explains it all.
Wow, when it comes to wheels 'n trucks, size really does matter. I've converted to radials on a 1950 IH 1/2 ton, but that was on original 16 " one-piece rims; no duelies. The only real issue was chronic bead-leakage, which was solved by running tubes... this not only solved the leakage issue, but also stiffened up the sidewalls to semi-bias levels, which seemed to improve rough-surface handling significantly. Never noticed much of a change in turning-circle; that's probably down to the structural difference in size. YMMV, That intermitant rear-vibration thing could possibly be down to a tandem-tire ballance quirk: when one pre-ballanced wheel is joined to another, the combination of balance weights can be out of phase with each other, esp, at certain RPM. Try turning each outer wheel one bolt-hole over; if there's a change in behavior, that's the culprit. Keep on truckin'.
Thank you so much for all of that added information I never knew that there was a whole science to this I thought you just took one set of rims off and slap another kind on and that was it that’s all you had to do..
Learning facts about wheels and tires from someone who knows. Thanks, man.
I don’t know everything there is to know about wheels and tires this is just what I found out while doing this project.. There is a whole science and there’s lots of things that I’ve left out I didn’t go into detail with what the positives and negatives of every type of wheel.. I should’ve said in the video that every situation is different
@@What.its.like. I know, but that doesn't mean people aren't learning things they didn't know before.
@@PS-js9oh Shitter was full!
@@PS-js9oh Yep! Can't beat the classics like that.
As a kid I remember when radials became a thing in there mid 70's. I never head of any real advantages to bias ply. I don't mot to what you re saying doesn't apply to passenger cars and light trucks.
Tires are a weird thing especially the bigger you go I messed around with tire pressure when I got the truck with the radios I told them to put 80 pounds of pressure in them because that’s what the biosphere rated that I looked at how much air pressure was in the tires and they had 100 pounds each which that’s what the tire was rated for but I took it down to 80 and it rides a whole lot better I still have to get it aligned but it’s getting better gas mileage now too I’ve calculated it gets between 16 to 20 on the highway which is incredible for a 1952 Chevy 1 ton Dually
Polyester tires in the 1960s were the rule. I still shudder thinking of how my dad would drive 90 mph through the desolate highways of Nevada in a car with drum brakes and polyester tires; as we were going to Phoenix for Christmas.
Yes, polyester tires , drum breaks with a single well master cylinder .🤣 Those were the days
I always wondered how polyester tires felt I remember reading ads for them.. it’s crazy when I talk to other people they said that they hate buys tires because if you let the car sit too long it goes dumb bum bum bum bum bum bum down the road until the tires get true enough to drive. I drive my truck so much that that has never been a problem for me I’m not sure if it was because they were eight ply bias tires and they were just a real big heavy compound but even in the winter time when I didn’t drive the truck it never had a flat spot on it.
@@What.its.like. Polyester tires are much quieter and comfortable riding, when used on a classic car. I still remember my first experience with radial tires for my parents received as a gift a Ford LTD station wagon that was equipped with radial tires and a heavy duty suspension; that car rode noisily and transmitted every pebble and seam to the occupants. My 56 Volkswagen Beetle conversely rode quietly and smoothly on its polyesters.
Heat of the moment - Asia Never cared for bias ply tires. Radials ride and drive much better.
Great guess but no you’re so close though anyway yeah I thought that too I thought radios ride better but in this situation the bias are actually better.. it makes no sense same thing with being easy to turd I swear the truck feels like it has power steering but it doesn’t it’s absolutely insane I would’ve never guessed that.
Check the universal joints. I once had the same symptoms (vibration within a certain speed range) turned out to be a worn u-joint. It was an old Plymouth.
Thank you I’ll check those =)
Thanks, Jay. I'm sorry to hear the tire change was not better 😞
On my '55, it came with H798-15s ... which I gradually changed to 15" in the rear, 14" in the front (back in the'70s a "rake" was cool-where "rake" = lower in the front than the rear). I wonder why we called it a "rake" ??
Anyway, I watch your vids so I can learn something new.
I was never a fan of the rate to look personally I like them to sit level.. I used to own a 67 mustang I own that vehicle from age 21 to 25. It’s hard to believe 10 years ago I would have my Mustang.. end it came time to do the suspension my mechanic wanted to have a right to work and I didn’t agree with that I wanted to sit level I never ended up getting the suspension done. I absolutely hate confrontation so I just I had the parts I just never went back. That car was one hell of a stress ball. I worked at Walmart and drive that car all the time to work the big managers would always ask questions about it one was even inspired to buy one.
Yeah just wasn’t into the raked look. No offense it’s almost like the princess wheels on the big trucks now you know how they have those hideous wheels with those big thick tires that stick out past the truck picture in link below
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@@PS-js9oh I'm not sure if that's the _correct_ definition, but I offered up nothing, I guess we'll go with it.
You might need a side brace on your rear suspension. I remember my dad saying that one garage back in the 1960's told him he had to get some things changed on the suspension of his 1948 Packard if he wanted to put radials on it. - just a thought.
Thank you so much for all of that added information I really appreciate it that’s kind of like where I’m at now I don’t know if I want to change everything to make these tires work
@@What.its.like. The choice is yours.
This is a sort of "if you give a mouse a cookie" kind of thing.
Yeah you give an inch it takes a mile.. and that’s kind of like where I’m at with it I don’t know if I should just get bias tires and put them on the split rims and sell the rims I have and never look back or if I should fix every little thing that’s wrong with the truck..
I took it down the highway yesterday
And took it to 70 mph. In Pennsylvania if you’re on the highway a lot of times where the bridge meets the road is higher than where the road is on the bridge if that makes any sense it’s almost like a speed bump but it’s not quite as severe as a speed bump. And not all bridges have them a lot of bridges are smooth I forgot this bridge had one and I’m doing 70 miles an hour when I hit that. I flew out of my seat thank God the roof is high for people that wear hats back in the day otherwise I would’ve probably smash my head pretty good. I flew a good 4 to 5 inches out of my seat. Surprisingly that isn’t what broke the bulkhead.
The $150.00 price per tire is dirt cheap for a 19.5. I mean DIRT CHEAP. Chinese or Korean I assume? I'm a professional heavy duty truck mechanic with 26 years experience and have changed literally thousands of large truck tires ranging for 265 -70- 19.5" all the way up to 12r-24.5" tires...all by hand using tire bars ranging from 3 1/2' to 5' long. The hardest radial tires I've ever mounted / dismounted were 445-65-22.5" tires for cement mixer trucks. These large tires are "No Joke" and will kill you in a heartbeat if you fail to follow all safety rules for mounting and dismounting. Also, unless its a very old, all original vehicle that's barely driven and they are kept installed just for appearance purposes, bias ply tires have no buisness on the road anymore. IMO, radial tires are far superior in every way imaginable. The day the company I work for told all of us out in the shop that we were to remove all split rims and bias plies ftom that day forward and replace them with one piece wheels with radials tires was a great day indeed. I wouldn't touch a split rim today other than to remove and scrap it out. Nowadays, just about every big truck comes with 10 hole hub pilot wheels whice are the best design yet. I also think your complaint of "decreased turning radius" is due more to the fact you have a much wider tire contact patch now vs it being a radial thing itself.
And that’s what makes this really really odd because this thing rides rougher than it ever has I like the fact that it doesn’t follow all the lines on the road anymore but I have to fix like three new problems that arise and then when I fix those problems are there going to be other problems that occur..
That Vibration is the Drive shaft...
Thank you I’ll get that checked out thank you so much =)
Probably already been mentioned, but if you still have that vibration after tire balancing, might need to balance the drive shaft. I used to have to get my wheels balanced on the vehicle and while rolling every few weeks or so and occasionally have the drive shaft balanced on the vehicle. It was an '81 Rx-7 5 speed and it would run so smooth, straight and solid. I lived in the country, 16 and just got my license and pretty easy going to do whatever out on those country roads. 🍻🌎❤️🌮
It’s just crazy because nothing makes sense radios are supposed to ride better than biased plies and I wasn’t sure if it was because of the size
What’s weird is the vibration was not there when the bias plys were on the truck and I’m wondering if it was always there but the buyers plies corrected the finickiness at the steering wheel.. I will have the driveshaft looked at. I’m gonna take it to a friend of mine first and see what his thoughts are
@@What.its.like. I hear ya and I just suggested it since I could you had some bad vibrations to after things like a tire change or something
I hate the traditional split rims(you might call them widowmakers). You have to use tubes in them, which is a problem waiting to happen. Back when tires with tubes in them were common, we used to have blow-outs. When changing tires, split rims can be dangerous even with experienced tire people. I remember pulling into a tire shop one day many years ago, just as an ambulance was pulling out. When changing a tire, the locking ring blew loose and hit the man in the head. This guy had worked there for over 20 years and had done more split rims than he could remember. I never checked to see how badly the man was hurt, but it was bad enough to rush him to the hospital. Other people had told me about guys working for them had been killed by flying locking rings.
It was mainly due to the tire guys foolish mistake. You never stand or lean over a split rim while changing tires. The locking rings usually spring up.
Back when I was a kid, I went with my grandparents from Las Vegas, NV to Alaska. After you cross the Canadian border, paved roads disappear. My grandparents had a brand new 1967 Dodge 3/4 ton Camper Special and there was a large cabover camper on the back. The truck had 16" split rims with 7.50-16 bias ply tires.
We were traveling on the Alaska-Canadian highway, which was decent and well maintained, but it was graded dirt and rock. The roadbed was a 2 or more feet above the surrounding land. About 40 miles before Whitehorse, one of the rear tires blew out. The truck went over the embankment and ended upside down by the side of the road. The part of the camper which was over the cab was smashed flat. I remember seeing other campers on the road and kids were riding up in that part of the camper.
We were shaken up but aside from my grandmother hurting her back, we were OK.
A wrecker came from a few miles away, put the spare tire on and got the truck back on it's wheels, towing it to their garage. They removed the camper and although the cab was a little bent out of shape, the truck was still drivable. We made it to Alaska and bought a small older trailer in Fairbanks, drove South through Anchorage and boarded a ferry around Seward. That was the most fun part of the trip for me, spending about 3 days on the ferry and getting off just North of Vancouver.
In 1971, my father bought a new Ford F-250 pick-up. It came with 16" split rims and had 7.50-16 bias ply tires on it. They were worn out before 20K miles on them. We replaced them with the same size Michelin radial tires and they were better all around. They didn't last as long as expected, so, with the bad rap for split rims we replaced them with 16.5 one-piece rims and put Firestone wide oval bias ply tires on them. They were either 10.00x 16.5 or 10.50x 16.5's. The rims weren't that heavy but the tires sure were. They were manageable. That's what wheel dollies are for. Those tires were the best tires yet on that truck. The tire store paid us $80. for the old Michelins and that about paid for the new rims!
Today there are a lot more wheel options to choose from. On a HD pickup, just get it over with and get yourself a set of Alcoa aluminum wheels. The worst part of them are the plastic-chrome lugnut covers which are continually cracking and falling off.
There are other 2-piece aluminum rims like the centerlines and beadlocks. A 2002 Hummer H1 I used to work on came with 2-piece aluminum rims and they were heavy. We replaced the tires once and the 2-piece rims didn't help at all. After that one we refused to do anymore tire work on a Hummer. It's funny, the Hummer dealer would touch them either and we couldn't find another local tire shop that would touch them either.
Yep, the way to go is to get rid of the split rims before they kill you. Stick with 1-piece steel or aluminum rims.
Oh, don't use 10w-40 motor oil. I was working at a Cadillac dealer in the mid-80's and we were replacing a lot of flat cams. The factory and recommended motor oil was 10w-40 at that time. GM discovered that the 10w-40 motor oil was the culprit. In January 1985, they got rid of the 10w-40 motor oil and replaced it with straight 30w. This was real fun for us, being in the winter and pumping the oil out of a hose, we would put the nozzle in the oil filler, lock the trigger on, and go get a cup of coffee. It took 5-1- minutes to pump 5 quarts. This was at a time when we had already gone through recalling all the Cadillacs in warranty and doing free coolant flushes(to give us the opportunity to put the special stop-leak tablets in the cooling system to stop the common coolant leaks). Then they called all the customers with Cadillacs still in warranty to come in for a free oil change, so that we could drain the 10w-40 motor oil and replace it with 30w. The camshaft failures ceased. Later, GM changed to 10w-30 and then to 5w-30 and pattern camshaft failures were gone.
Going back later into independent car repair facilities, when a car or truck came in with a flat cam, I would ask what weight of motor oil they had been using. 9 out of 10 times they had been using 10w-40. Our house oil was Castrol GTX 20w-50 and none of our customers ever had an oil related engine problem.
Working on a lot of overhead cam engines, we could see scoring on the camshaft lobes of engines using 10w-40 or private branded motor oil. Any of our customers which used our oil had perfectly clean engines inside and looked brand new.
Thank you, good video!
Thank you so much for sharing all of that added information and taking the time to do so I really appreciate it on the oil subject would I be fine with 10 W 30 I thought 10W-30 of 10W-40 were very close to one another I usually interchange those if I can’t find 10W-30 I put 10w 40 in it.. It honestly needs an oil change and a grease job and exhaust work it’s just all these little things that start to add up over time but I didn’t get to drive it much last year because the tire situation
@@What.its.like. Depending on your climate determines the weight of oil you should use. Please note that multi-weight oil was introduced as a convenience so you didn't have to change weights for different seasons.
10w-30 is a good alternative as long as your you summer temperatures stay below 100 degrees.
I switched to 100% synthetic motor oil decades ago and haven't lost an engine yet. And, no, synthetic motor oil will not cause increased oil consumption or leaks.
Mobile 1 is the king of synthetic motor oils. I have used 5w-50 Mobil 1 in my 1991 Chevy p/u for decades.
Kendall synthetic motor oil with Titanium is an excellent oil. I have used 0w-20 in my Prius' since new. Toyota engines of the 2,000's are know for oil consumption because of weak piston rings. My oldest Prius had just over 100K miles on it and it never used a drop of oil.
If your old Chevy consumes oil, I can tell you how to fix that. It doesn't require rebuilding the engine. But, man, steam clean that engine, I would be embarrassed!
It’s a workhorse I use it I don’t show off the engine when I go to car shows but I’m probably gonna have that done I wanted to paint a Detroit diesel green before having the engine installed.. my friend who did the engine job he didn’t want all the grease all over his garage and just put the engine to long story short we just put it in the way it was.
@@What.its.like. Glad to hear that you are using your truck as originally intended! Fantastic! Out here in California, 4WD vehicles are very popular and they even modify them for extreme off-road duty. Problem is, 99% of them have never left the pavement!
Years ago, I worked in the shop of an Ag-chem company. They had made the mistake of buying a bunch of GM vehicles for it's fleet equipped with the infamous 350 diesel.
One of the pick-ups was in really nice shape and the 350 diesel was running poorly but it hadn't blown up yet. It was common for them to come in with holes busted through the blocks and some of them still ran!
Well, they let me go through the 350 diesel and when I was done, before I re-installed it, I painted it Detroit Diesel Green! The only problem was the office didn't like me buying paint outside of the blue and orange Chevy paints we had in stock.
I got 'em again when I did another 350 diesel, but this time I painted it Allison Blue! lol😅🤣😂
I just love that color for an engine or teal like that AMC teal with the red valve covers that’s sharp too.
I was in my tire store a couple weeks ago. I noticed they had a split rim cage in there still.
That’s awesome I’m going to call the guys that put the rims and tires on my truck and see if they do split rims if they do I’m seriously contemplating going back to that style.. The positives don’t outweigh the cons in my scenario I like to drive it every day.. I was told the shocks were shot since the moment I bought the truck I’ve driven it two years with blown shocks and the ride was decent with the buyers tires it’s unbearable on a road that isn’t smooth and it’s counterintuitive because that’s what radios are for therefore smoother ride and better handling I love the fact that it does not follow all the Lines on the road anymore but that was easy to correct
In the UK bias ply, or cross ply as we call them cannot be mixed with radial. It’s illegal to do so. Very hard to even find cross ply.
Many test rides many problems solved till you end up with a sorted truck, and you have a tail light out
Thank you I saw the tail light out as well one of the cab lights is out on the top there should be three =)
I have a 1976 Gremlin in that same blue and white stripe package!
@Eric Ruud Except for the cracked stripe decal. Time will do that to the vinyl.
It was a cool car at a local dealership I wish I had a V-8 in it.. lol
It’s a cool little car there isn’t any room in the backseat I got back there but it wasn’t fun lol
@@What.its.like. I own 2 Gremlins...a 1976 with a straight 6 and a 1977 with the Audi 4 in it. I know what you mean about the back seat...and in the AMC ad for the Gremlin, they have the husband and wife in the front seats, the kids in the back seat and the family dog (A big boarder collie) in the back hatch. Can you imagine how cramped that would be!
Very I was disappointed to find out that it’s just a hatchback.. there isn’t any tailgate action lol
@@What.its.like. Oh yes, and lifting something up and over that back panel and in through the glass can be a pain.
Hey jay i have a 1952 dodge one ton and i m trying to find 16 inch tubless wheels for the front wheel center is 5 and ahalf 7 and aquater to stud centers studs are 5 eigths have 700 16 bias plys all the way around.
Try marketplace or junkyards I found a whole bunch of Dodge stuff like a dodge 19.5 wheels where everywhere
I start a junkyard honestly Try to find a junkyard that has a lot of box trucks and delivery vans do you have the wheels on them that you’re looking for. Mine were an eight bolt pattern Chevy with a 4 1/2 inch hub hole that was my issue because they only ran eight bolts in the 80s they were on everything that was commercial but after the eight balls they want the 10 bolts and that’s what they are still using I believe. I’m not sure how many studs Dodge has but you might have to get adapters and change the studs that fit wheels that you find. I’m not an expert in this but I do know that different manufacturers did different things Chevy made wheels with 8 lug in the size that I needed. So start there see if dodge even made that size wheel in budd style single piece. If they didn’t.. google search what your looking for And see if maybe an aftermarket company is making that wheel size. (And the reason you don’t do this one first is because if they made the wheel that you’re looking for then you could go to a junkyard and get it for far cheaper than getting it from somebody that makes them custom)
Hope that helps
Vibration? Re-balance if still there? Possible out of round tire or rim, more common than many think. The other thing? Look at your pictures, the vehicle sits lower, much lower, drive shaft angle may have changed. You changed a lot - also lower? You changed the steering geometry, If you are going to do a change like this to make it easier? Measure the overall height of the old tire wheel assy, then find a tire and rim combination that measures out the same height. Personally? I'd never go split rim - - and as to bolt pattern? You can always get adaptors to match the new bolt pattern. The trick there? Be sure to get a very good adaptor, NOT the cheapest you can buy AND there are companies that will make custom adaptors. I've done many susch changes over the years when I worked in the auto business. Personally? I'm a keep it stock guy. Ps, do some work under the hood of your truck! Really man!
These tires are only a half inch difference in height to the ones that I took off.. they are very similar in size
I wanted to paint the engine before we put the engine in but I had a good friend of mine do all the work and he didn’t want all that grease all over his floor so we just put the engine in the way I bought it I only paid $400 for that engine.. good running 350 and haven’t done a thing to it but change the oil.. it does leak A little bit of oil though I call it the chassis lubricator lol The 327 that was in it before hand that is why the truck looks so nice under there is because it leaks so much oil that whenever I was driving down the road the oil would leak and catch the wind and lubricate and or coat the undercarriage..
I’m at the point I don’t know what to do I’m going to take it to a friend of mine and see what his opinion is the same friend that put the engine in the engine in the truck.
Thank you so much for sharing all of that information I really appreciate it
@@What.its.like. "These tires are only a half inch difference in height to the ones that I took off.. they are very similar in size" Also what was the size of the radials vs the bias ply and ratio?
Is that total height of Rims AND tires if so truck shouldn't sit that much lower.
The size of the radials are 225/70 r19.5 bias 18.00-7 8 ply rating i’ll have to go out and measure the tires again I believe the ones that I put on
Were 32.5 inches tall overall and the bias 33 inches tall The bias tires had more had a taller profile and sidewall because the 19.5 made up for the tire with rim. 18 inch rim would be ideal problem is they don’t make an 18 inch wheel and an eight bolt pattern and that was another headache that I totally forgot to discuss is the rim situation maybe I’ll make a short for that because that is a colossal headache to explain to somebody that’s not in the truck world why dodge wheels and Ford wheels won’t work on this application
Jay you said the tire and rim weighs 150lbs, did you try taking the air out so it weighs less? 😃
Hahaha
You didn’t mention Bias Belted tires which were briefly used in cars prior to radial tires for a while in the late 60s and early 70s. I had a 1970 Chevy BelAir that used bias belted tires. You couldn’t use Bias ply tires nor radial tires .
Thank you so much for pointing that out I left without for a reason, To simplify things
@@What.its.like. I don’t know what the difference was between Bias and bias belted except that the bias belted tires were usually tubeless. As I mentioned they were not around for long. When radial tires were introduced the bias belted tires were rendered obsolete at least for new cars. Sorta like when unleaded gasoline came into use the cars that required leaded gasoline became obsolete.
Sure as the Sun by Ellie Holcomb
Good guess but no, I wanted to play more of the song but I was afraid of getting copyright blocked they’re really coming down hard on that now.. and giving it away The gremlin is what’s coming up next I’m going to try to have that episode out tomorrow
@@What.its.like. Hah, shot in the dark, thought I heard that in the lyric. I hear from streamers at cars and coffee events about how careful they have to be with music playing if they're live.
Feel your pain with the bad roads, here in SW Ontario they throw down sticky thin tar base then layer pea gravel on top. Best to either drive over it very slowly until it wears a bit or avoid it. Had a 1989 Turbo Trans Am Indy pace car, being white it was a terrible combo. 😣
These old vehicles were designed for bias ply tires. I bought new bias ply for my 48 Packard. Come to Florida. Our dirt roads look better than that.
I go to Florida every summer my in-laws live there I’m hoping Tennessee is going to be the endgame I want to end up in the south..
It takes away the aesthetics as well
You may have tightened the rims down too tight and cracked the rear break hub . I've done that . If you have , good luck finding one .
I’ll take a look at that and see if that is what the problem is I had a professional truck shop do it
@@What.its.like. If they used air wrenches it's possible . That's exactly what happened to my one ton Ford.
@@What.its.like. Hope it's something simple to fix.
Odds are pretty good if I can find somebody to change the split rims I’m probably gonna go back to that the ride is unbearable I’ve owned this truck for two years now it’s actually going on three years it’s hard to believe.. yeah I bought it back in 2020 so yeah three years man time just flies when you’re having fun I guess. The bulkhead has loosened up on me with the bias tires
The thing that sucks the most is with the radial tires it doesn’t follow all of the lines in the road which is great because if you get into a construction area and there’s like walls everywhere it gets white knuckle like driving that through there because of how it likes to wander. The radial tires straight as an arrow I just wish the ride wasn’t so bad. I’m going to take it to a good friend of mine and have him drive it and see what his opinion is =)
Yeah, you are “chasing the compass” with the changes….as you solve one issue another developed from the first fix. The good news is that the truck looks fantastic. Love the sounds that it makes.
Fascinating topic.
I absolutely love the sound that that truck makes every time your shift gear clicks into gear when I took the dipstick out and I put it back in it made it a click just love that
That’s what it feels like it feels like I’m chasing problems or chasing a Compass and I’m not sure I want to resolve all of the problems because I just don’t have the budget to do it..
There's a particularly dangerous split-rim designed by Firestone which should never be re-used but rendered unuseable and replaced. Bias-ply tires ride smoother in most cases. Under hard cornering and hard braking the tread deforms enough to lift from the road costing you grip when you need it the most. They also run hotter because of this which can cause failure or at best lower life. They do have stronger sidewalls which sometimes matters. Belted tires are better at avoiding these problems, but radial tires are generally so superior that are a better choice. Radial tires deflect sideways even at rest; push hard on the side of a radial-equipped car while watching the tire and you'll see this effect. Do the same with bias ply tires and the car (and tire) won't move. This allows the tread to maintain full contact with the road under all circumstances as well as allowing the tire to run cooler. There is one place where bias or belted tires can sometimes be better: trailers. The sideways lack of rigidity with radials can start a 'sway' which can turn into fishtailing which is why some trailers still come equipped with bias or belted tires (though it's usually an economy measure). Mixing tire types isn't necessarily dangerous as long as both tires on the same 'axles' are of the same type. Some cars do OK with one 'oddball' tire and some don't- each vehicle will be different here.
Some 'fun facts': US law mandates radial tires as original equipment on cars mostly due to tire dust pollution- bet you never knew there was such a thing, but roadsides on highways were becoming toxic with the amounts of rubber dust which caused problem with people's lungs. Radial tires generate far less dust. Radial tires are still woven with a 'bias'; the cords do still cross at an angle but at a shallower angle. Anything with a 17 degree cord angle or less is considered a radial; anything more is a bias ply. Radials were invented by Michelin as a solution to tire problems with heavy bombers in WW2 where it was found they could bear a heavier load safely with the same size tire. The first pneumatic tires used cotton cords up till synthetics like nylon came along. The cotton cords were easily damaged without showing any outward sign of a problem; even bumping a curb or running over a medium-sized rock could lead to a blowout. The earliest car and motorcycle tires wire 'clinchers' where the only thing holding them on the rim was air pressure. These could be removed from a rim with bare hands. Those early tires also had a very short lifespan becoming worn out in as little as 500 miles. Polyester cords and belts in bias-ply tires offered the smoothest ride of all but degraded under heat quicker- good around town but less so on the highway. In my 50 years of driving tires have become so much better in every way that it's almost unbleievable.
Thank you so much for sharing all that insight and information greatly appreciated it =)