Pop... Please save all your work and patience. Take it yo an honest garage. I've researched this job a hundred times. Some thing must be done by a mechanic with proper parts and tools and a hoist. My cost $163. 2 hours. I'm a DYI er but sometimes it a bridge too far, like Brakelined. Trust me. David Alberta
I replaced the brake lines on my '93 GMC Jimmy. I don't have a lift. All that I can do is to raise it only as far as my jack stands permit, leaving barely enough room to get under this rust bucket. When I got under it, I couldn't believe how rusty everything was, brake and fuel lines. (Only one 1/4 inch brake line to the rear wheels). I started this project in mid August 2021. The rusty fittings to the brake hoses were so rusted, that I needed to heat couplers with a torch. The bleeders were so rusted, that I needed a torch and vise grips to remove them from the calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Here in Nov. I'm still at it, rolling around in the dirt and crud. I'm getting tired of working in the cold and dark. I removed the fuel lines, cleaned them, and painted them with Rust Bullet. Great stuff. But remove as much rust as you can. Be sure to have a fan blowing over you, as the fumes will mess with your brain.(The room started spinning from inhaling just a few fumes). I snugged up the new brake line fittings. But they leaked. I tightened more, and they still leaked. Then I tightened them even more. I was afraid of tightening them too much for fear of stripping the threads on the fittings and the line couplers. My God! How tight do they need to be without stripping the threads? Another problem: Which nuts and fittings are metric, which ones are SAE? I hate it when they mix them. I wonder how in H... they built these vehicles.
I’ve replaced a few brake lines in my time and I got the feeling they were originally installed before things like the engine, transmission, gas tank, etc. All I can say is thank God for Copper-Nickel brake lines. I replaced a line in one piece from front to back right wheel on my 2004 Optima last year and I didn’t even have to use my bender.
Good video, Ivan I would caution you when you put the old fitting in the vise not to tighten it so much that it becomes egg shaped, even though it may still thread in it might not crush against the flared end of the line evenly and you'll have trouble getting a good pedal.
I like seeing your garage, I'm burdened with not enough height in my garage to have a lift. Just a low profile 3 ton Pittsburgh floor jack and 6 ton jackstands.
billmck12345 06 and 07’s have the same problem with rusting brake lines. Its disgusting that GM was allowed to get away without a recall. When mine blew, I went through a red light, barely avoiding a t-bone! Very likely people have already died and more will in the future die from this obvious defect in GM trucks/SUV. And my truck has lived its entire life in S. Carolina where it hardly ever snows!
@@j.rob.5943 I had a similar experience riding in a friends Silverado pick up here in Minnesota. We came to a red light on a four-lane divided highway, slow down to around 15 mph, when both brake circuits blew out because of the rusted brake lines, and we proceeded through the red light. We were towing a heavy duty trailer that had electric brakes, and fortunately were able to use the manual switch on the trailer brake controller to activate the brakes on the trailer to stop the rig and pull over to the side of the highway. It cost the owner two tows to recover the pickup and the trailer.
@@j.rob.5943 I had a similar experience riding in a friends Silverado pick up here in Minnesota. We came to a red light on a four-lane divided highway, slow down to around 15 mph, when both brake circuits blew out because of the rusted brake lines, and we proceeded through the red light. We were towing a heavy duty trailer that had electric brakes, and fortunately were able to use the manual switch on the trailer brake controller to activate the brakes on the trailer to stop the rig and pull over to the side of the highway. It cost the owner two tows to recover the pickup and the trailer.
Will have look at this vid tonight as on rear brake line job on a 99 Forester tomorrow morning. never much fun doing brake lines but good tools and parts makes it way easier .
Yeh should be easy bend as not overly hard angles/lengths, is cupro nickel pipe. probably not full pipe lengths as 10" after the rear flexi pipes totally good so flare for a joiner at sensible spot the current plan, main issue is flares sealing as weeping one can become a pain. I here it better to be lucky than good so i'll take your good luck and hope makes it all trouble free and job jobbed before lunch :-)
Well Job Jobbed almost ! All went pretty usual for brakes, done rear flex pipe, short section rear line to top flex pipe and also had make up short hard lines that go from bottom flex pipe back to wheel cylinder as had copper ones which bit rough on shape and flares so done those out of cupro nickel, did use a ling socket on short extension to do some bends. All looks good no weeping, just need pick up 2 u-clips for the flexi pipe brackets from dealer tomorrow morning (old ones turned to dust), wish would include those in with flexi hoses) and can whizz the wheels on and move on to next job ...
Nice job Ivan. Especially without a lift! I never look forward to removing the steel brake line fittings on these copper/nickel lines way down the line. They start to corkscrew the pipe where they have seized to it when trying to undo them. I try to use copious amounts of lube on the end of the lines when pushing the fittings along the new pipe and screwing them in to try and prevent this. For us in the UK its an absolute must to spray down the lines and fittings afterwards liberally with some corrosion protection spray.
I'll probably never have to deal with rusty brake lines where I live but I enjoyed learning your tips and tricks. Also, I think I just realized you might be one of the brothers who did a cross country m/c report on ADVrider several years ago. I was very impressed then and if it is in fact you awesome, you're all grown up! lol
Oh man I still remember eating lunches at my desk at my old job for several days reading that ride report. I think what clicked for me was watching your Geo Prism series here and recognizing your friend. I was going 'I've seen both these guys before' somewhere. Small world! I guess this means I HAVE to go spend that $0.99 now LOL
thanks for sharing this tip . p.s used your string trick for doing my wheel alignment worked a treat had it checked by a friends garage a week later and it was bang on 0 !
to salvage flare nuts, snip line off, use socket and ratchet. blast with torch carefully if it's tight.. blow out with compressed air first so you don't start a fire and don't cook the rubber lines. to pull broke piece out, an ez-out in the flared end will likely break it loose, drilling works also :)
Recently made 2 brake lines by following directions on the lid of the Napa brake tool case. I had 1 leak in that I did not tighten one of the fittings on the side port of master cylinder. 01 Tundra in the rust belt. under that truck is a nightmare! Brakes are better than before leak.
Ivan- I've told many people this over the years, some have tried it- all who have- have loved it. How much does that 12oz can of Kroil cost? The cheapest, and best "penetrating oil, rust remover" you can't buy- is 1 quart can of acetone, 1 quart of ATF, mixed as needed, always 50-50. Get one of those red H.F. pump cans for $3 or $5. Both come to about $13 at WalMart- for a half gallon of great stuff. Could you please try it? Mix only as needed, the acetone evaporates.
i use that in the home shop. very good but deadly. awesome for pre treating a wheel bearing so they come out easy the next day. we used it a lot where i used to work. it was nick named the sex oil haha
Ivan is one of my favorite TH-cam Mechanics. Been following him for many years now. I said to myself I would never see a vehicle with rusted brake lines in Florida but low and behold the Yukon as well is in my employers shop now and it has no brake pressure. Guess what ? Under the drivers door area is a leak and all the lines are rusty and one major leak. So here I am now watching a great mechanic repair brake lines on a Yukon as well. Thank you Ivan!!!
When I did the lines on my Bronco I had some old 1/4" tygon tubing laying around. I cut a piece of 3/8' tubing with a hacksaw lengthwise and used it to clamp a razor blade inside, then pulled the tygon through slicing the side. I had enough to cover all the lines in the frame rails plus it fit the OEM clips better. No rubbing and minimal zip ties.
brake lines are a treat . never seen a vehicle with 2 lines to the rear. seen a lot where the brake line and gas line rotted out together and had to replace both. I love salt. ......... lol
good video bud gm has a tsb on these trucks that tell you where the lines go at the abs unit napa sells stainless brake line kits for these made by dorman wich I will say I've had great luck with keep up the work
I was going to mention the Dorman stainless lines. Also available online, like roackauto. When I finally get to the brake lines I have to replace, its going to be the stainless lines. Cheap enough that it isn't worth all of the work bending the lines.
@@EGGINFOOLS That's exactly what I did. 03' Escalade EXT. I did not feel like going through the pain in the dick of dropping the 30 gallon gas tank and unbolting the frame like the dealer wants to charge $2,000+ for. I bought two 25' rolls of it, bent, flared and worked the new lines around the frame rails my way and zip tied everything and get back on the road. Hardest part was tracing the rear lines and fighting with them during removal. No way I was putting them back on top of the frame rails. 😂😂
Ivan those were some great tips. Sadly, I had to put it in my "Videos that I'll never need" pile as the chances of a brake line ever rusting out in Arizona is less than the probability of being killed by a meteor.
I think we found a new state to dump all the toxic waste brine water from fracking :)) oh wait, PA and NY are doing that, probably others also. it's close to 10x harsher than standard "road salting" :|
Yep having Chevy's and living where I do, I just happen to know most of these tricks. But a refresher is always good. Nice work Ivan. P.S I am pretty sure I would not have paid $0.99 for this video. Just saying...................
I used a impact gun on my 2000 Silverado, All New lines prebent Stainless Steel from Amazon. I used a crowfoot wrench on a Rachet on the new lines on the ABS. It's a salt Truck, I had the front spliced 3 times before I changed them. I bled the lines with the Verus.
So if you lose brakes on a plow truck, do you just drop the plow to use as the e-brake? Because the real e-brake NEVER works on plow trucks either haha
The fitting is rusted out, edges are rounded off. I would pick up a new one if available. Many fitting are now coated to prevent/slow down corrosion. Fittings are cheap enough. Customer looks under sees a new line and old fittings will not be back.
Well it was very useful to me here in Michigan bud 😁. Thank you and God Bless, (take it while you can get it because when I go outside on the side of the road to shovel the snow from around the vehicle to work on it I'm going to be more of a GOD DAMNIT type of person)😁😁
How about simply attaching a paper towel over the end of all the lines and blowing air through the other end (one line at a time). Blow air through one, go check all the towels. The one wet with brake fluid is the one through which you blew air. Also, a can-o-air should have enough air pressure to perform the above.
I find the hardest thing by far is trying to get the new lines into the same location and clips so they don't bang against things. Even the copper niickel. Also, Hondas have rubber on outside except for about 2 inches from fitting (where they rust in to of course), so the original clips won't hold copper nickle brake line. clips are too large. I did by some 3/1 6 ID fuel hose I plan on using on where th elines want to rub.
I've changed a bunch of them, no fun but I use the kits from GM, Stainless Tube and Classic. It doesn't pay to replace sections, it's a guaranteed comeback in a few months for another section. Fuel lines are just as bad. GM should be embarrassed.
probably the same issue I have here, concrete not thick enough and ceiling far too low to be useful, except on tiny cars. big $$$ to still end up on creeper and jack stands, now with a posts and lift parts in the way :)
I never do these without doing all of the lines. Here in Michigan they all rot out and can hardly ever do just front or just rear. We order the whole kit from GM and pop em on.
Good information! I've used to use the old nuts over, then I managed to find NAPA #641-3324 nuts which are pretty inexpensive and work well. Could you provide more info on the pressure brake bleeder? Looks pretty slick.
I ordered two fifty foot rolls of the copper/Nickel lines, but they are not continuous they are 25 feet in length each. I hate splicing lines together, the more Connections the greater chance of leaks!!
You do all the same things I do, except I don't have a fancy pressure bleeder - that thing is neat! Been getting by with my trusty Mityvac for the past 18 years, but it doesn't work on all vehicles. Sometimes I have to follow up with a traditional bleed procedure, which is a pain in the ass when you're working solo. Back and forth to the cab with a section of 4x4 post about 50 times - not fun! For securing the new lines, I use sections of inner tube I have laying around, instead of hose ... only because I'm a cheap bastard, lol. :D That copper-nickel alloy is the best. Flares so easy, bends easy, and never rusts. GM should've taken notes from Volvo when building these things. My '93 940 had copper-nickel lines right from the factory. I grabbed this crazy flaring tool from a company down the road from me. This thing is AWESOME (but very spendy). store.fedhillusa.com/007cbrakelineflaringtool.aspx - In just 2 motions, the line is flared. Literally less than 10 seconds. Will do stainless line too. Has to be in a vise, so I also picked up a handheld flaring tool from Eastwood for lines I need to flare on the vehicle. Made my life a billion times easier than messing with those autoparts store tools that wear out, and make off-centered flares that leak! Great vid - I think the "storm" has passed. ;) :D
Good Tips There Ivan, had me a bit worried with the air pressure to reservoir bleeding however presto it works! maybe i will not call wife to pump brake pedal next time and rig something up hmm nahh only if i have to, i like my wife helping lol "she dont like it much i think"
Hey Ivan where did you reroute the brake lines on the side and what did you use to hold them up. My spare tires stuck in the way and I have to cut the cable
Has anybody replaced brake lines on a 1994 Chevy Full Size Blazer need a set of prebent lines cannot find a company that has the correct ones? Twice got the incorrect ones.
My 2004 Escalade in northern wisconsin... Is really bad. I either gotta try this, or pay someone to do it, like, immediately, if not sooner.... My lines look worse than that.... No leaking yet, but, that one cracked off like a potato chip.... Haha! Yikes!
Hi Ivan, Is copper nickle brake tube dot approved in the US. It's not even legal to use on trailers let alone cars over here in Australia. You have to watch it for movement and vibration. But the way you insulated it and mounted them they should be fine. G,day from Queensland Australia. Cheers
NiCop is DOT approoved; agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp/ Definately holds up better than steel line, and doesn't hide corrosion like the coated stuff that was popular for a short while.
very good tips, just one question: doesnt the air that you use to pressurize the system introduce moisture into the system? since the brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will absorb the moisture but its boiling point will drop.
My 1986 F150 truck is on my mechanics hoist as I speak. The line is broken very near the rt rear wheel. He told me the line must be replaced (lft wheel to rt wheel as far as I can tell) . It will cost $40 new. Labour and parts will cost me around $200. I would never attempt this myself. How much for your parts and tools? David Alberta
I even have better news Pine... It cost only $163.50 =labour + brake bleeding and the line retails at $8.00 according to napa. I was just there. Thanks for the response. Sincerely, David
Quick question how did you attach your air contraption to the master cylinder fluid res.? I've doing brake lines for years and I'd say 75% are chevy gmc 1988-2006 chevy trucks/SUVs i always do the 2person pump and hold Routine and or with a vacuum pump at the blender and getting fluid to rear like that is a pain sometimes!!! I like your way id like to know more... been a professional mechanic for a long time and I love your tips man
I dislike the GM trucks when they come in for brake lines... Most the time I get them to replace all the lines and just get the pre-bent kit from the dealer. I have two sticky notes on my hoist at work for the GM ABS pumps to know where the lines go because I am doing them so often. If the customer doesnt go with the pre-bent lines I go with the Ez-Bend copper nickle lines also!
You are a very hard worker, I think installing lines under a car is one of the most difficult jobs I know of. I give you a deserved pat on the back
I just washed up from replacing brake lines on my ‘05 Silverado. Sat down to relax and lo and behold, this video came up as recommended.
A free video? You spoil us, Ivan ;) In all seriousness, here in NY any rust-fighting tips are greatly appreciated.
Wow, so much sarcasm. Ivan doesn't owe anyone anything. I'm grateful of the free content.
I'm getting ready to replace all of them on a 2003 Suburban. Thank you for your great tips!
im about to do my 03 z71 as well
Pop...
Please save all your work and patience. Take it yo an honest garage. I've researched this job a hundred times. Some thing must be done by a mechanic with proper parts and tools and a hoist.
My cost $163. 2 hours. I'm a DYI er but sometimes it a bridge too far, like Brakelined.
Trust me.
David
Alberta
@@davidweum Lol, that's like trusting a car salesman!! lol
I replaced the brake lines on my '93 GMC Jimmy. I don't have a lift. All that I can do is to raise it only as far as my jack stands permit, leaving barely enough room to get under this rust bucket. When I got under it, I couldn't believe how rusty everything was, brake and fuel lines. (Only one 1/4 inch brake line to the rear wheels). I started this project in mid August 2021. The rusty fittings to the brake hoses were so rusted, that I needed to heat couplers with a torch. The bleeders were so rusted, that I needed a torch and vise grips to remove them from the calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Here in Nov. I'm still at it, rolling around in the dirt and crud. I'm getting tired of working in the cold and dark. I removed the fuel lines, cleaned them, and painted them with Rust Bullet. Great stuff. But remove as much rust as you can. Be sure to have a fan blowing over you, as the fumes will mess with your brain.(The room started spinning from inhaling just a few fumes). I snugged up the new brake line fittings. But they leaked. I tightened more, and they still leaked. Then I tightened them even more. I was afraid of tightening them too much for fear of stripping the threads on the fittings and the line couplers. My God! How tight do they need to be without stripping the threads?
Another problem: Which nuts and fittings are metric, which ones are SAE? I hate it when they mix them. I wonder how in H... they built these vehicles.
I’ve replaced a few brake lines in my time and I got the feeling they were originally installed before things like the engine, transmission, gas tank, etc. All I can say is thank God for Copper-Nickel brake lines. I replaced a line in one piece from front to back right wheel on my 2004 Optima last year and I didn’t even have to use my bender.
Good video, Ivan I would caution you when you put the old fitting in the vise not to tighten it so much that it becomes egg shaped, even though it may still thread in it might not crush against the flared end of the line evenly and you'll have trouble getting a good pedal.
Thanks for the good info. I'm working on two silverados now. Brake lines are really rusty.
Dude relax, you know what your doing. 64k Subs is just the world watching:) ~Thank You for your time.
Great advice I'm fixing my brake lines in the morning
"Zdrasvuita " Ivan your videos are on par with south main auto which is to say outstanding !
hey Ivan I'm going to watch part 2 cvt video tonight. love your ambition
I like seeing your garage, I'm burdened with not enough height in my garage to have a lift. Just a low profile 3 ton Pittsburgh floor jack and 6 ton jackstands.
Very handy tips for brake pipe replacement.
good vid ivan....seems like the gm k trucks up to 2005 are horiffic - rust is an understatement!!!
billmck12345 06 and 07’s have the same problem with rusting brake lines. Its disgusting that GM was allowed to get away without a recall. When mine blew, I went through a red light, barely avoiding a t-bone! Very likely people have already died and more will in the future die from this obvious defect in GM trucks/SUV. And my truck has lived its entire life in S. Carolina where it hardly ever snows!
@@j.rob.5943 I had a similar experience riding in a friends Silverado pick up here in Minnesota. We came to a red light on a four-lane divided highway, slow down to around 15 mph, when both brake circuits blew out because of the rusted brake lines, and we proceeded through the red light. We were towing a heavy duty trailer that had electric brakes, and fortunately were able to use the manual switch on the trailer brake controller to activate the brakes on the trailer to stop the rig and pull over to the side of the highway. It cost the owner two tows to recover the pickup and the trailer.
@@j.rob.5943 I had a similar experience riding in a friends Silverado pick up here in Minnesota. We came to a red light on a four-lane divided highway, slow down to around 15 mph, when both brake circuits blew out because of the rusted brake lines, and we proceeded through the red light. We were towing a heavy duty trailer that had electric brakes, and fortunately were able to use the manual switch on the trailer brake controller to activate the brakes on the trailer to stop the rig and pull over to the side of the highway. It cost the owner two tows to recover the pickup and the trailer.
Awesome tips , brilliant man!
QUICK TIP. GREAT VIDEO
You are a genius
Hello, Ivan
Good to see a video 🙂
Ivan those harbor freight ratchets are awesome! For the money you can't beat them! Have a great day. Oh yeah nice video! Keith
Wow, to just break them off like that is unbelievable. Great info Ivan. Thanks!
Will have look at this vid tonight as on rear brake line job on a 99 Forester tomorrow morning. never much fun doing brake lines but good tools and parts makes it way easier .
3/16" line is even easier to bend than 1/4". Good luck!
Yeh should be easy bend as not overly hard angles/lengths, is cupro
nickel pipe. probably not full pipe lengths as 10" after the rear flexi
pipes totally good so flare for a joiner at sensible spot the current
plan, main issue is flares sealing as weeping one can become a pain.
I here it better to be lucky than good so i'll take your good luck and
hope makes it all trouble free and job jobbed before lunch :-)
a trick in tight areas is to use "sockets" and bend around them, you still have to be careful to not kink, but it beats bare hands
Well Job Jobbed almost !
All went pretty usual for brakes, done rear flex pipe, short section rear line to top flex pipe and also had make up short hard lines that go from bottom flex pipe back to wheel cylinder as had copper ones which bit rough on shape and flares so done those out of cupro nickel, did use a ling socket on short extension to do some bends.
All looks good no weeping, just need pick up 2 u-clips for the flexi pipe brackets from dealer tomorrow morning (old ones turned to dust), wish would include those in with flexi hoses) and can whizz the wheels on and move on to next job ...
Nice job Ivan. Especially without a lift!
I never look forward to removing the steel brake line fittings on these copper/nickel lines way down the line. They start to corkscrew the pipe where they have seized to it when trying to undo them.
I try to use copious amounts of lube on the end of the lines when pushing the fittings along the new pipe and screwing them in to try and prevent this.
For us in the UK its an absolute must to spray down the lines and fittings afterwards liberally with some corrosion protection spray.
drown them in anti-seize and wipe excess off so it doesn't get inside brake line.
Hope.
Put a bead of neutral cure (aka sensor safe) RTV sealant where the line goes into the back of the fitting, to seal out the elements.
I love working on my cars but jeepers that's one job I would gladly pay my mechanic to do lol fair play to you Ivan!
I'll probably never have to deal with rusty brake lines where I live but I enjoyed learning your tips and tricks. Also, I think I just realized you might be one of the brothers who did a cross country m/c report on ADVrider several years ago. I was very impressed then and if it is in fact you awesome, you're all grown up! lol
Yup I was the navigator and lead mechanic of that epic journey ;)
Oh man I still remember eating lunches at my desk at my old job for several days reading that ride report. I think what clicked for me was watching your Geo Prism series here and recognizing your friend. I was going 'I've seen both these guys before' somewhere. Small world! I guess this means I HAVE to go spend that $0.99 now LOL
thanks for sharing this tip . p.s used your string trick for doing my wheel alignment worked a treat had it checked by a friends garage a week later and it was bang on 0 !
Wow, and I thought we had bad rust in Nebraska. Great video so far.
you guys MIGHT get surface rust after a few years..up here in northeast 6 months after it rolls off the lot lol
working shlub. you guys are hardcore up there in the northeast. cheers!
to salvage flare nuts, snip line off, use socket and ratchet. blast with torch carefully if it's tight..
blow out with compressed air first so you don't start a fire and don't cook the rubber lines.
to pull broke piece out, an ez-out in the flared end will likely break it loose, drilling works also :)
Recently made 2 brake lines by following directions on the lid of the Napa brake tool case. I had 1 leak in that I did not tighten one of the fittings on the side port of master cylinder. 01 Tundra in the rust belt. under that truck is a nightmare! Brakes are better than before leak.
Ivan- I've told many people this over the years, some have tried it- all who have- have loved it. How much does that 12oz can of Kroil cost? The cheapest, and best "penetrating oil, rust remover" you can't buy- is 1 quart can of acetone, 1 quart of ATF, mixed as needed, always 50-50. Get one of those red H.F. pump cans for $3 or $5. Both come to about $13 at WalMart- for a half gallon of great stuff. Could you please try it? Mix only as needed, the acetone evaporates.
i use that in the home shop. very good but deadly. awesome for pre treating a wheel bearing so they come out easy the next day. we used it a lot where i used to work. it was nick named the sex oil haha
Nice tips Ivan. Undercoating has always helped me preventing the rusty lines. Cheers
Ivan is one of my favorite TH-cam Mechanics. Been following him for many years now. I said to myself I would never see a vehicle with rusted brake lines in Florida but low and behold the Yukon as well is in my employers shop now and it has no brake pressure. Guess what ? Under the drivers door area is a leak and all the lines are rusty and one major leak. So here I am now watching a great mechanic repair brake lines on a Yukon as well. Thank you Ivan!!!
Hey Richard! Definitely use NiCopp line and a basic flaring tool :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Maybe I missed it. But I was wondering where you got that brake bleeder tool at ?
When I did the lines on my Bronco I had some old 1/4" tygon tubing laying around. I cut a piece of 3/8' tubing with a hacksaw lengthwise and used it to clamp a razor blade inside, then pulled the tygon through slicing the side. I had enough to cover all the lines in the frame rails plus it fit the OEM clips better. No rubbing and minimal zip ties.
Awesome set of tips , Ivan! Thanks
There's a 1/2 in bolt holding the upper OEM fitting in place. Remove it and pull the bracket down to access the fittings.
Thanks for the tip on the rubber hose piece Im getting ready to redo the lines on my 99 4 runner
brake lines are a treat . never seen a vehicle with 2 lines to the rear.
seen a lot where the brake line and gas line rotted out together and had to replace both. I love salt. .........
lol
Great tips, I am doing my truck now
good video bud gm has a tsb on these trucks that tell you where the lines go at the abs unit napa sells stainless brake line kits for these made by dorman wich I will say I've had great luck with keep up the work
I was going to mention the Dorman stainless lines. Also available online, like roackauto. When I finally get to the brake lines I have to replace, its going to be the stainless lines. Cheap enough that it isn't worth all of the work bending the lines.
NiCop is better than stainless. Also the pre-bent lines don't install easily and aren't flexable. NiCop you can hand bend to shape and easy to route.
@@EGGINFOOLS That's exactly what I did. 03' Escalade EXT. I did not feel like going through the pain in the dick of dropping the 30 gallon gas tank and unbolting the frame like the dealer wants to charge $2,000+ for. I bought two 25' rolls of it, bent, flared and worked the new lines around the frame rails my way and zip tied everything and get back on the road. Hardest part was tracing the rear lines and fighting with them during removal. No way I was putting them back on top of the frame rails. 😂😂
@@LSp8 I hear ya there! I'm glad I went NiCop. I bought the kit though that has all the sections worked out and labeled for install.
Much appreciated Ivan! Good tips.
Ivan those were some great tips. Sadly, I had to put it in my "Videos that I'll never need" pile as the chances of a brake line ever rusting out in Arizona is less than the probability of being killed by a meteor.
I think we found a new state to dump all the toxic waste brine water from fracking :))
oh wait, PA and NY are doing that, probably others also. it's close to 10x harsher than standard "road salting" :|
good job as always, I did a lot of them in michigan. once on a truck in the parking lot of the parts store
Thanks for the great tips Ivan. I learned something today!
great job. good idea
Thank you Ivan.
thanks for showing. OEM3 requires the use of explosive predenniation explosive brake fluidation though. hehe!
Thanks Ivan..Great tips! I just hope I never need to use them!
Yep having Chevy's and living where I do, I just happen to know most of these tricks. But a refresher is always good. Nice work Ivan. P.S I am pretty sure I would not have paid $0.99 for this video. Just saying...................
Thanks bro for the tips will help me lot on my 05 z71
I used a impact gun on my 2000 Silverado, All New lines prebent Stainless Steel from Amazon. I used a crowfoot wrench on a Rachet on the new lines on the ABS. It's a salt Truck, I had the front spliced 3 times before I changed them. I bled the lines with the Verus.
So if you lose brakes on a plow truck, do you just drop the plow to use as the e-brake? Because the real e-brake NEVER works on plow trucks either haha
Great idea.. Thank u
The fitting is rusted out, edges are rounded off. I would pick up a new one if available. Many fitting are now coated to prevent/slow down corrosion. Fittings are cheap enough. Customer looks under sees a new line and old fittings will not be back.
Oh trust me I got customers 4 lyfe lol
Well it was very useful to me here in Michigan bud 😁.
Thank you and God Bless, (take it while you can get it because when I go outside on the side of the road to shovel the snow from around the vehicle to work on it I'm going to be more of a GOD DAMNIT type of person)😁😁
How about simply attaching a paper towel over the end of all the lines and blowing air through the other end (one line at a time). Blow air through one, go check all the towels. The one wet with brake fluid is the one through which you blew air.
Also, a can-o-air should have enough air pressure to perform the above.
That's Pro as in Professor! ;-)
Kick ass! Great tips video
I find the hardest thing by far is trying to get the new lines into the same location and clips so they don't bang against things. Even the copper niickel. Also, Hondas have rubber on outside except for about 2 inches from fitting (where they rust in to of course), so the original clips won't hold copper nickle brake line. clips are too large. I did by some 3/1 6 ID fuel hose I plan on using on where th elines want to rub.
I've changed a bunch of them, no fun but I use the kits from GM, Stainless Tube and Classic. It doesn't pay to replace sections, it's a guaranteed comeback in a few months for another section. Fuel lines are just as bad. GM should be embarrassed.
You really need to buy a 2 post asymmetrical lift. Getting up and down on the concrete floor is going to get old after a while. Keep up the good work!
probably the same issue I have here, concrete not thick enough and ceiling far too low to be useful, except on tiny cars. big $$$ to still end up on creeper and jack stands, now with a posts and lift parts in the way :)
Guessing Ivan has plans to build a new workshop at his farm to do just that once he gets a bit more established.
I never do these without doing all of the lines. Here in Michigan they all rot out and can hardly ever do just front or just rear. We order the whole kit from GM and pop em on.
Good information! I've used to use the old nuts over, then I managed to find NAPA #641-3324 nuts which are pretty inexpensive and work well. Could you provide more info on the pressure brake bleeder? Looks pretty slick.
The master cylinder pressure adapter is just an old cap with a bicycle inner tube Presta valve drilled through the middle. Works great!
WTF my 95 has the ABS controller under the hood nice and dry. And GM starts putting them under the frame on NBS? lol
the ones under the cab mostly have circuit board on-top and guess what fails on many of them due to water/salt ;)
fyi i thought always start at the furthest brake first?? right rr
excellent advise thanks
This may sound odd but fuel lines on the '73 Corvette rust out as well. I'm in Texas and you wouldn't expect it.
My 1995 Yukon has original brake lines and hey still look new.
Oh shut up! --Rustbelt NW, Pennsylvania...lol
Ivan how did you connect the compressed airline to the mc cap to bleed. Thank you.
I ordered two fifty foot rolls of the copper/Nickel lines, but they are not continuous they are 25 feet in length each. I hate splicing lines together, the more Connections the greater chance of leaks!!
You do all the same things I do, except I don't have a fancy pressure bleeder - that thing is neat! Been getting by with my trusty Mityvac for the past 18 years, but it doesn't work on all vehicles. Sometimes I have to follow up with a traditional bleed procedure, which is a pain in the ass when you're working solo. Back and forth to the cab with a section of 4x4 post about 50 times - not fun!
For securing the new lines, I use sections of inner tube I have laying around, instead of hose ... only because I'm a cheap bastard, lol. :D
That copper-nickel alloy is the best. Flares so easy, bends easy, and never rusts. GM should've taken notes from Volvo when building these things. My '93 940 had copper-nickel lines right from the factory.
I grabbed this crazy flaring tool from a company down the road from me. This thing is AWESOME (but very spendy). store.fedhillusa.com/007cbrakelineflaringtool.aspx - In just 2 motions, the line is flared. Literally less than 10 seconds. Will do stainless line too. Has to be in a vise, so I also picked up a handheld flaring tool from Eastwood for lines I need to flare on the vehicle. Made my life a billion times easier than messing with those autoparts store tools that wear out, and make off-centered flares that leak!
Great vid - I think the "storm" has passed. ;) :D
"fancy pressure bleeder" = old reservoir cap + presta valve from bicycle inner tube. No so fancy huh? ;)
That's pretty good! I'll have to build a few of those. Pretty much only need Ford, Chrysler and GM caps anyway. :D
Good Tips There Ivan, had me a bit worried with the air pressure to reservoir bleeding however presto it works! maybe i will not call wife to pump brake pedal next time and rig something up hmm nahh only if i have to, i like my wife helping lol "she dont like it much i think"
I clean a spot and use my volt meter to do a cont. check.
the easiest way I've found to fix a rusted brake line is to take the whole hunk of steel attached to it to a scap yard.
Where did you get the pressure cap adapter ?
Nylon zip ties don't last forever. You can get a stainless zip ties for a few dollars more.
12:02 How do you hook up an air line to the master cylinder reservoir?
Hey Ivan where did you reroute the brake lines on the side and what did you use to hold them up. My spare tires stuck in the way and I have to cut the cable
Nice one Ivan, did you just drill a hole in the brake reservoir cap and fit a Schrader valve to it so it's there for future use?
What would you have charged someone for this type of work?
Does anyone know how long are the back lines to a 2004 GMC Yukon xl 1500 with the 6.0 it has two lines.
thanks for the tips
Awesome!
zip ties on brake lines in the UK would fail its m.o.t ,Ivan, would it pass us inspection,?
Has anybody replaced brake lines on a 1994 Chevy Full Size Blazer need a set of prebent lines cannot find a company that has the correct ones? Twice got the incorrect ones.
Could I use a tire air compressor that you can plug in the car lighter to create the wind through the pipe?
How 'bout showing us your setup for flaring the brake lines. Thanks
I've used a basic bubble/double flaring tool that I picked up at AutoZone like 12 years ago for 25 bucks. Never had a problem with it!
The Problem With Zip-Ties Is They Get Weathered And Break
Ivan did you steal that piece of sliced brake line from a duramax in Avoca??
Good video how dis you make your bleeding system 5 STARS
My 2004 Escalade in northern wisconsin... Is really bad. I either gotta try this, or pay someone to do it, like, immediately, if not sooner.... My lines look worse than that.... No leaking yet, but, that one cracked off like a potato chip.... Haha! Yikes!
Yup get it done before they pop! A full Chevy Truck brake line job around here runs about $800...
Hi Ivan, Is copper nickle brake tube dot approved in the US. It's not even legal to use on trailers let alone cars over here in Australia.
You have to watch it for movement
and vibration. But the way you insulated it and mounted them they should be fine. G,day from Queensland Australia. Cheers
NiCop is DOT approoved;
agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp/
Definately holds up better than steel line, and doesn't hide corrosion like the coated stuff that was popular for a short while.
Those zip ties are plastic and are not gonna last long and will become brittle then the brake lines will rub and fail..
They sell insulated brake line clamps which are a better..
I enjoyed the tips and tricks!
Only a very exclusive club know the misery of the Chevy rusty bottom. 23 yrs of owning a chevy truck will turn you into a Mechanic warrior level. 🤑
very good tips, just one question: doesnt the air that you use to pressurize the system introduce moisture into the system?
since the brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will absorb the moisture but its boiling point will drop.
He's replacing the entire line anyway to where the air is coming out at the ABS. Not an issue.
i mean when he's bleeding the system.
My 1986 F150 truck is on my mechanics hoist as I speak. The line is broken very near the rt rear wheel. He told me the line must be replaced (lft wheel to rt wheel as far as I can tell) . It will cost $40 new. Labour and parts will cost me
around $200.
I would never attempt this myself.
How much for your parts and tools?
David
Alberta
Line cutting tools?
That's a fair price including bleeding the system, depending how rusty the fittings are.
I even have better news Pine...
It cost only $163.50 =labour + brake bleeding and the line retails at $8.00 according to napa. I was just there.
Thanks for the response.
Sincerely,
David
Quick question how did you attach your air contraption to the master cylinder fluid res.? I've doing brake lines for years and I'd say 75% are chevy gmc 1988-2006 chevy trucks/SUVs i always do the 2person pump and hold Routine and or with a vacuum pump at the blender and getting fluid to rear like that is a pain sometimes!!! I like your way id like to know more... been a professional mechanic for a long time and I love your tips man
Hey Patrick, I actually made a more detailed vid on pressure bleeding a while back. Check out: th-cam.com/video/TVPW9_UCoeM/w-d-xo.html
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Thank you!! I may pull off the calipers on my car and service them up so I can try this out!
Try a Motive Pressure Bleeder.
He made this video like we just got this stuff laying around lol but definitely a great vid tho
I dislike the GM trucks when they come in for brake lines... Most the time I get them to replace all the lines and just get the pre-bent kit from the dealer. I have two sticky notes on my hoist at work for the GM ABS pumps to know where the lines go because I am doing them so often. If the customer doesnt go with the pre-bent lines I go with the Ez-Bend copper nickle lines also!
I don't mind doing them once in a while. Definitely a satisfying feeling to get the vehicle back on the road again!
Why is the abs pump under the car at that location seems good place to make it fail
Ask the GM engineers lol
I want to know who is mowing your grass?