NEVER Bleed Brakes Until Watching This! Gravity Brake Bleeding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2022
- Watch at proclaimliberty2000 the most easy, simple, safest and inexpensive way to bleed brakes.
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So good to see that Red Forman has a successful YT career after that 70s show
This was a random video suggestion and in the first second I was like what the bleep, lol!
Hahahahaha
That really red?
That’s effed up but funny 😮
lol
I always do a two person job. The air gets purged quickly. Having your child or wife or friend help will build a lasting memory. I still remember when my dad asked me to press the brake pedal to bleed it.
It seems a lot of people do not understand the how and why of this process and a number who have commented say to pump the brake pedal that more often than not will cause problems and this is why.
Under normal operation the pedal only travels a certain distance and if you attempt to bleed brakes pumping the pedal it travels much further, Fine with new components but with an older Master Cylinder it usually has some wear and that creates a wear ridge inside the master cylinder so when you push the pedal and move the piston with it's seals past that wear point that is when you can damage the seals as they pass over the wear ridge.
That usually means a new master cylinder is required hence why Gravity bleeding works so well because the piston is never going to travel over that wear ridge.
One little tip I use a Coke bottle say 600 ML in size thoroughly cleaned and fill that with fresh brake fluid then you carefully turn it upside down with the open neck in the master cylinder under the fluid level and it will not overflow and keep the master cylinder fluid level topped up so avoiding the scenario of running out of fluid in the system because if that happens then gravity bleeding will no longer work and more conventional and expensive methods are needed.
Gravity bleeding is a good method but does not work in every scenario, Probably the hardest system I have ever had to bleed was my Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV, Master cylinder under the front floor two seperate brake boosters for the four wheel disk brakes and all too easy to get airlocks in the system but that was before either Pressure bleeders or Vacuum bleeders were invented.
Many modern brake systems are actually filled from the Brake caliper up in the factory as Air naturally rises so starting at the lowest point means a quick successful brake bleed but bear in mind New Car New brakes and very fancy equipment that puts exactly the correct amount of fluid in the system, Not something easily done at home or even in most dealership workshops either.
Another point to mention so many miss it does not matter how well you bleed your brakes they can still feel spongy especially so with the cheaper sliding type calipers that only have hydraulic pistons on one side and rely on the caliper body sliding across on pins to bring the opposite side brake pad to bear on the disk, If these pins or special bolts are seized then the caliper cannot move freely to allow the pads proper contact with the disk and as well often the brakes drag sometimes slightly often quite a lot so always make sure the caliper pins are free to move with brake caliper specific grease or nickel never seize just enough and not too much is the trick.
I've burnt my eyes reading this but thanks a lot. Very well laid out, seems from experience. You are not AI are you?
@@Boomnock0011 Not AI but a tech that started back in the early 1970's and still working solving many issues that are simply beyond most modern techs because they lack decent traing in most cases and of course the all important experience.
Bottom line one does not need to experience something first hand when you can learn from the experiences of others which is what I have tried to achieve here.
After all one does not have to burn ones hand on a hot stove after seeing somebody else do it does one, All the best Hope I have been of help cheers
Stephen, you are a smart Dude😊
Thank you for sharing this. I like your no-nonsense approach to the issue! No BS! No music! Just get right to the point! Thanks again.
Yor videos are always shot, clear and to the point. Thanks for respecting my time
I've used gravity bleeding for my motorcycles and car. One main advantage, especially on old vehicles, is not needing to depress the brake pedal. Doing this with the bleeder open means the pedal will go all the way to the floor and this means the master cylinder piston seals are pushed all the way to the end of the bore in the cylinder. Old vehicles, where there may be lots of debris/corrosion etc along the unswept section of the bore, could damage the seals on the piston. This will make for loss of braking pressure when using the car from then on. A rebuild kit will be necessary to correct. Gravity bleeds avoid this risk. Yes, they take longer, typically 15-30 min per wheel. But you can open two or all the wheels at same time to save some time. Most classic car restorers may use gravity bleeds for this reason, but any commercial shop will not due to time constraints.
Few people know this the rust in the bore is a killer for master cylinders.When I bleed brakes I only push the pedal down 2-3 inches then release very slowly.
@@johnsmith9161 I always put a 2x4 wood block under the brake pedal. Have been doing this for over forty years.
I observed 'pros' doing brake jobs, they never do that, but they also leave the caliper dangling by the brake hose while removing the caliper knuckle to get at the rotor. But what do I know.
well hot damn. i may have just blown the seal on my master cylinder pistons on a 03 golf GTI. its somewhat of a project car, and im just learning to self perform alot of the work. had a friend help me bleed the brakes, and he was pumping them alot, and all of a sudden he said, "now theres no pressure. it was building pressure, and now there is none." it seems i may have discovered why that is...
Thankyou, reckon I've done this to my old T1 Mercedes van. I've never seen or heard this mentioned anywhere before. Are they hard to rebuild?
@@WoodgemanX The "pros" dont care about your car, they just want the time done to get paid. This gravity bleeding takes too long in a shop.
If this will eliminate my wife from the equation, I'm in.
Ahaha +1
Exactly why im watching
When gravity bleeding, I find it helpful to keep the end of the plastic tube higher than the bleeder screw (but below the master cylinder). This helps to ensure that the bleeder screw is under pressure rather than vacuum. If the bleeder screw is under vacuum (which would be the case if the end of the tube is below the bleeder screw), this vacuum can easily suck air into the system past the bleeder screw threads. This will cause a constant stream of air bubbles in the tube, which makes it impossible to know whether the system is bled.
A bead of grease around the bleeder screw where it screws in will also prevent air from entering.
I noticed that so I dabbed grease around the threads . It thick enough to stop the air but then I can wipe it off
I was wondering about that too. Makes sense to keep it a little higher than the bleed screw.
Not true. If you leave the end of the hose submerged in brake fluid inside the container, you can pump your brakes, and as long as you check and top off the master cylinder each time, you can watch the air bubbles in the line. The air doesn't move that fast. The hose will be full of liquid and the air purges rapidly. It only sucks up the old fluid a few inches each time, but NO AIR. The only air traveling back up is air that was ALREADY ON ITS WAY OUT. After pumping it all out with the pedal, there's nothing coming back in. It goes out MUCH faster than the hose pulls back in. Try it and you'll see what I mean. When it runs clear and no bubbles, you're done and on to the next. Also works for clutch bleeding.
@@ragnaroksangelYou didn’t pay attention to what the poster was saying at all. You can do EXACTLY as you just referenced but sometimes air will be sucked in around the threads of the bleeder valve (or around a loose bleeder tube). It doesn’t mean there is air in your system, but it often makes it hard to truly tell when your fluid looks well.
Fantastic video, very clear and comprehensive, thank you!
I just changed 10 year old brake fluid out of my Honda and used new Honda brake fluid. Both were almost the exact same color. I have trouble telling when I have cleared out all of the old. I just kind of "guestimated" based on the length of line, so I'm not sure I got a perfect replacement. I wish they would make it clear or at least put some kind of dye in it that will fade away in time. Good video. I used this gravity method last year on a Ford but this time I had a helper. I was careful to tell him not to press all the way to the floor. Later I read a YT comment someone said- keep one of your (shoed) feet under the brake pedal while pressing with the other one. Sounds like a good idea.
This is a great video. It not only gives us an easier option but removes the risk of damaging seals, etc. Thanks so much for sharing this method!
Clear and concise. Well done
I did this many years ago and worked great. You may want to put some brake fluid in the waste bottle and have the end of the tube submerged in the fluid. It should show any bubble but also prevents any air being drawn back into the brake line. Good video
yes, everyone should have some in the waste container from emptying the reservoir first!
How does air enter when gravity is making the fluid empty out to the container unless you are pressing the brake and the break pedal is retracting. Maybe or your still right?
@@robertmedina3982 It's been 45 years since I did this on my 73 vette. As I remember (brain not hitting on all cylinders) I ran rubber hoses into two coke bottles on the front. I raised the backend up higher than the front brakes. The rubber hoses were attached to the front bleeder valves. I opened the bleeder valves slowly until I could see air bubbles in the coke bottle. I opened both sides and left overnight. I made sure there was plenty of fluid in the master cylinder. According to the Carcraft magazine article the fluid in the coke bottle prevented air from sneaking back into the system and you could see the bubbles. Just going by what Carcraft said.
@@farmanthor3770 I believe you and did not meant no disrespect. Thank you.
@@robertmedina3982 Air will enter as the fluid leaks out, without a constant pressure from the master cylinder forcing air back it will enter and find the highest point in the system because the fluid is not taking up the whole area of the pipe, you will see that it runs down the walls of the pipe, but even with the end of the pipe under fluid air will enter around the bleed nipple thread.
Until I watched your video I had never hear of 'gravity brake bleeding'. Your explanations and video work are terrific. What is equally impressive are your concise straight forward directions. Reading the comments from others testifies to a very worthwhile video that should help a lot of folks. Thanks.
Thank you so much for your time. Very concise and to the point. Very clear speaking voice and good volume. Many people can take many good points from you. All the best and may God bless.
Wow, this is such a great tip sir! Have always thought the brake pedal needs to be pumped throughout the procedure. Thank you very much dear proclaimliberty2000.
Great video. It worked perfectly on my Ford Probe. You could actually see air bubbles leaving in the brake fluid. My road test with cars power assist and 4 wheel disc brakes stopped the Probe perfectly. Now my brake pedal is same hight as my clutch. A new master cylinder was installed but needed a brake bleed. Thanks Red.
To all he keyboard jockeys, thank you
I prefer this: first attach clear bleeder hose to the fitting of choice. Route it up/use a hangoff point of some kind then drop it down to your bottle. That loop being higher than the bleeder [6" seems to work well enough most systems] is going to trap air bubbles and prevent them from returning to the system being bled. Then open the fitting with a flare wrench. Do not remove tubing while bleeder valve remains open.
You don't need a hang point. You should fill the bottle about 1/5th of the way and make sure the end of the tube stays inside the brake fluid. Pump brakes, check reservoir/top up, check hose for air bubbles. When it runs clear and no bubbles, you're done. You're adding extra steps and time
@@ragnaroksangelI'm going to try your method because I'm in a situation where it's a little bit tricky to find someone at the right time to help me pump the brakes being that I live alone. Worst thing that can happen is I have to go buy another container of brake fluid and do it the conventional way LOL. Thanks for the advice
Thank you for making & posting this video. (Very nicely done). Thank you again.
One of our senior tech at Nissan did this and it was amazing to watch😊
I keep a sacrificial Shop Vac, the $30 Wally special, for slurping out fluids. stick a plastic tube in the vac end, wrap tape around to seal the two different size ends together, and instantly empty the reservoir. You can even add a little fluid back in and slurp again in case you cant get all of the fluid on the bottom due to reservoir design.
Refill with new fluid, put a hose on the bleeder and crack it.
If you have a helper, they can push on the brake pedal, which is the most powerful brake bleeder made. watch the dark coffee colored fluid come out, turn to light yellow, close the bleeder, and refill the reservoir and go to the next wheel. If you don't have air in the lines, it isn't as important to start with the wheel that is the farthest from the reservoir.
This was awesome! I used this on my motorcycle and works fantastic. I used silicone tubing instead of plastic. Thanks so much for sharing!
I used a Taco Bell straw with a Mtn Dew bottle to do my car like a real gamer 😂
This man is like chirstfix, but your video are different and I love the content keep it up and thank you for helping me fix my airbags 🙏
You’re very welcome! 👍😊
Dont give a shit about ukraine. Why show public support for money laundering?
Nah I get Scotty Kilmer vibes from him. In the way he sounds, pace of the video and that end part with the dog.
Awesome method..thank you for it!
Great speaker I'm old school although I have cracked right rear left over night o one I found impossible to bleed b160 ihc most remember to close first thing. I enjoyed your presentation
This brother is a fantastic teacher
Thanks Sir
If when you've finished and start your engine, don't worry if you feel the brake pedal sink under your foot a little, this is just the brake booster / servo adding it's power to the pedal.
Great video, I have learned that bleeding brakes at least every two years will remove moisture from the system. That moisture can build up at the wheel cylinders/calipers and cause the caliper to stick which causes damage to the brake pads and rotors.
Moisture in the brake fluid also makes it boil at a lower temperature. May causing brake fade or complete loss of braking when the brake are very hot.
I just watched this for fun. Great video !
Awesome info thanks dude
Awesome video. Thank you for posting this. I needed to do a gravity bleed due to accidentally pressing the brake pedal at one point while changing my brakes that caused the piston to come out. This video is excellent education for doing the gravity bleed and getting me right back into business.
There is a tool you can get for only a few bucks for pushing the piston back, and you can make one yourself, which I feel would be a better use of time than having to bleed the brakes.
I did the exact same thing.Not remembering that I removed all 4 pads prior to replacing the first set.With one piston coming out, hope it didn't mess it up.Thought I had a leak the next day.Must of been excess drippage from the rubber flange.The fluid level rose;must be air in the line or cylinder.Although pedal isn't bad and breaks are working well.Atleast with new rotors and pads,no steaks whatsoever.They sold me ceramic selects.The bleeding? Dang it!
No squeaks damn spell check
It works for bleeding of a full hydraulic system with air at the wheel cylinders or near them. If you have to replace the master cylinder or ABS modulator or air is captured at the ABS modulator (where the brake lines are at their highest level) it won't.
Thanks for the info!! Great job!!
Magic man ! Thanks and cheers to you good sir 🍻
Nicely explained thanks! I found a hand vacuums pump for $30 tahr can accelerate the process too.
I usually place a length of wood between the front of the drivers seat and the brake pedal and then slide the seat forward a bit, placing it under pressure and then open bleeder for a short time. works good when working without a helper. might be a better way to go when replacing hydraulic parts.
very well explained
Some gravity bleed real good, just did my 91 cherokee, even flushed the whole reservoir and all lines, almost does the job itself. I started with RR and just let run until dry then refilled and kept full as I bled them all. Some of the other cars I have tried worked and some don't.
Great video. Thank you. New subscribers
VERY WELL DONE!!
Straight forward. This is proves that expensive tools are not required for every job
The Scotty Kilmer accent and actions does it for me. Priceless!
Very informative, Thank you..!!
Excellent video. I've been using this practice for 30+ years. Your tip on using a socket to break loose the bleeder screws is spot-on, as-is the recommendation to use a flare wrench (which I leave on the nipple's hex, then slide the tubing over the end). About the only hard part of doing this fluid replacement/bleeding is doing the passenger side: walking back and forth from the collection bottle (to monitor the fluids color) and the master cylinder (to add more fluid). So really not that difficult if you're patient. For the drivers side it's pretty easy to see what's going on at the bottle and at the master cylinder at the same time. About the only issue I've had is keeping the collection bottle upright as sometimes the hose is exerting a sideways force on the bottle. To get around that, I duct tape the hose to the bottle (but not 100% sealing it, the air has to escape) and "block" the bottle in with some scrap 2x4 or whatever. Blocking and taping helps if you have a tippy bottle and it reduces the chance of spillage. The one thing I would have liked to have seen is the installation of caps on the bleeder screws when you're done. When those little guys get corroded the hose doesn't seal as well and some cleanup with a green scotch pad is often required.
Yes herein England brought a rear wheel cylinder and the cheapskates didn't include a brake nipple rubber cap or 2 new 10mm bolts
@@zeez3139 I'm having a hard time finding bleeder screw caps anywhere nowadays.
@@TornadoCAN99 Put a dab of axle grease on it or some silicone sealant.
Tape something heavy around the bottom of the bottle, you should be good. 😉
@@SuperSedingAngeL-yr0 Good idea!
i drilled a hole in my brake fluid reservoir cap and threaded in a fitting.
i use a garden sprayer and pump it up.
does a fine job at getting it all sorted.
most of the time those bleeder screws are hell. ive spent hours getting one unstuck.
ive had one stuck so bad I worked on it for a few hour's at a time on n off few days. then finally watched you tube for some tips. cause I tried everything I knew. I was limited on funds and couldn't afford the bleeder screw removal tool you can buy or any bolt removal tools. so I made one with my welder and an old socket and basically cut out three spots at the bottom of the socket and welded nuts for three bolts so I could tighten the socket around the badly stripped bleeder valve and then heated it up with a torch and cooled it with upside down aerosol can and then it finally came loose. I was about to cut it off and drill and tap it but glad I didn't have to go that route.
Well demonstrated & explained & I echo the comments of another guy who said " No BS & no music ! "
Described it perfectly ... I have been doing this for years ..might title this video "Flushing" the brake system ..you can flush out all the old fluid this way ...Brake Fluid is Hydroscopic ..it attracts water and the brake lines etc. can rust from the inside ..same goes for the power steering ..flush that too ..
Good job.
I tried this method, it worked. thanks!
I like your explanation!!!!!!
This is hands-down the easiest way to bleed brakes Antonio 👍😊
That is really nice thank you sir I forgot about doing it that way I'm old school mechanic too and that way is excellent thank you so much you will help a lot of people God bless you brother bye
You’re welcome Frank! 👍😊
I'll never forget the first time I tried this years ago- I was so amazed that it actually worked! Sure beats the way I used to do it (By pumping up the brakes and then using a dried-out bag of cement to hold the pedal down while I'd go and close the bleeder screw....That way is faster...but a lot of running back and forth..and lifting). I always hated bleeding brakes...but now I actually don';t mind it.
You're right. I only use this method and it has always wirked. Crack open the bleeder and let it drip for 30 min each. Keep the resivouir topped up. Have a few beers and wait. Works every time!
Exactly what I do.
This sounds like a job to my liking.😄🍺🍺🍺🍺 Does this method also work if the brake system has been completely drained beforehand?
I have done this many times but I also like to do everything he said but put the hose in a full bottle of brake fluid and then pump them a couple times. I have never had any problems doing that especially when alone
excellent video
I saw a video with an interesting idea take strainer out of way in master cylinder and open a fresh bottle of brake fluid open it and put it upside down into master cylinder, so it acts like a water cooler and fills cylinder to level of neck of bottle. of course, this will only work in some master cylinders but seems like a great idea to not have to keep filling cylinder and might add a smidge more pressure to brake fluid coming out
I never do a gravity bleed. Add a bottle with hose and a one way valve just before the bottle top. Pump the brakes 3/4 to floor so you don't over extend the brake cylinder. By pumping the brakes (over gravity feed) you pump a lot of crap out that a gravity bleed will never touch. The only exception to this is if #1. you never bleed your brakes before and #2 is if your calipers are ancient or supper old and cylinder corrosion is well under way. But in all cases, if you bleed your brakes once a rear, than the pump the brake peddle method is going to keep those calipers way cleaner and last a long time before they need replacement or rebuild.
Before removing any wheel cylinders or calipers , I put something behind the brake pedal . This seems to cut the fluid loss . Usually an empty plastic container works , from anti freeze , etc. And if you want to go further , remove the bleeder screws , wire brush or wire wheel and put a THIN coat of anti seize on . They loosen easier the next time .
Pneumatic bleeders also work by gravity. You need compressed air and a 30 dollar kit from Harbor Freight. They work fast and the velocity helps flush out the system.
great video dude .. easy and fast
"Done by one person" SOLD! Thank you!
Awesome thankyou so much
While always having fluid in reservoir to max line. Need to put fluid into waste container in case of back flow and raise it above bleeder valve just like gravity let's fluid drip raising it up will let air bubbles out you will then see if line is filled with only fluid that way you know you are done. If changing all fluid for clean one then keep at it untill clear fluid comes out.
Thanks for this simple and easy-to-understand video. I have a question for you. Can this method remove the air in the fluid in the abs?
No way
one of the best youtube-mechanic!
Man you're so awesome and funny good stuff 😄
One time I was putting all new stainless line on my 99 Silverado which were rotting out. We were having a hard time getting the brake fluid through the lines, so we cut a small hole in the master cylinder cap and forced air from a air compressor into the master cylinder. It worked, just had to get a new cap.
Excellent!
If you bleeders are rusty tapping around the bleeder with a hammer and punch will help free the rust bond. If you live in New England you may want to do this before trying to open the bleeder
Do I have to attach a hose csn I just bleed it into the air / ground ?
Thank you!!
You betcha!
I dump the old master cylinder fluid into the "Gatorade" bottle and run the tube to the vary bottom. Press the brake pedal a couple times but only half way down. This fills the clear tube with fluid. Since the end is submerged, no air can enter the blead valve or the clear tube. This also creates a syphon effect that helps pull the fluid through the system. Slow shallow pumping will speed up the process.
Why not pump all the way to the floor?
@@auginater4200 no harm, just tired leg from going to the floor. You move more fluid on the first half of the pedal.
Not sure if you’ve ever seen this or heard of The show better call Saul, but when I listen to you, as you explain what you’re doing I swear you were the guy that played the lead role in that.
Anyways, excellent video with really good shots and great tips. Short And to the point just the way I like them! I’m going to like and subscribe.
He does sound like Jimmy lol
Thank you.
I have done a similar method for years. However I put a nut on the outside of the end of the tubing in the bottle and put enough brake fluid in the bottle to make sure the tubing end stays in the brake fluid so it cannot suck air. Then loosen the bleeder screw a bit. And then slow pump brakes until no air bubbles come down tube into bottle. tighten bleeder screw and repeat on other 3 wheels. Fast and easy for one person. I have found that silicone air line tubing for aquariums works best for the tubing. I also cut 2 holes in the jar I am using. 1 for the main tuber and another to let the jar breathe but I poke the bleeder end of the tubing down in the extra hole to keep the whole setup clean while stored until next use. Also do not loosen the bleeder screw so much that it sucks air between pumps of brake. And of course top up reservoir after each wheel is done. I likd eto use a plastic peanut butter jar and drill 2 holes in lid sized so that the tubing fits snugly in them.
One person? While you're pumping the brakes, how do you know when no bubbles come down the tube?
@@postalinVT Just what I was thinking too.
Good advice on the silicone tubing; regular poly tubing seem to always want to wander around on me, and the silicone tubing just lays there without flexing.
With my old junk, it is never perfect after a bleed job, so park on a steep hill overnight pointing up hill & that helps.
Pretty cool technique. Will try it soon on my 11 Ford Fusion. My only concern is with the amount of time the reservoir and the new fluid is open to the air humidity. As we know, brake fluid is hydroscopic. How much time are we talking about here? 10-15 mins per caliper? Leaving the cap on will only slow down the bleeding process so I think it must be cracked open at least. How fast will brake fluid absorb water at lets say, 70% humidity? Is probably negligible.
I have been doing this for years in my Toyota aygo and corolla. No problem, just need little bit of patience. The biggest advantage is that there is no need to worry about air being suckled in. It starts slowly and then picks up speed so it is not that slow. Use the plastic tube like in the video, so no spilling on the ground. Don't forget to fill the reservoir.
👍😃
That was a good one at the end there a lot of laughs❤
Very nice presentation. One question. I cannot tell for sure from the pictures but, on my car the brake lines run along the frame rail. If I elevate the rear tires as high as you have on your car the fluid in the front two piston lines will be well below the rear brake bleeders. Does that ever cause any problems or simply slow the ability to move entrained air bubbles through the pipe? Best Wishes...
That will not cause any problems.
I am a young mechanic and have been in the trade for 5 years so far. I have been in workshops using vacuum bleeding on brakes but I do enjoy gravity bleeding.
Seeing how workshops, especially ones I work at, have been go-go-go, I do not get to gravity bleed.
I only gravity bleed if I have to disasemble calipers or replace calipers as I find that gravity bleeding is the most effective for this
Love the video!
Stumbled upon you channel, never heard of this method but I will give it a try, my only question is how long would it takes to gravity bleed the whole car for instance a 2003 Lincoln towncar?
What else works is park on a steep hill. Had a car just couldn't get air out of new line after several times. Looked after buddies Island for a long weekend ahead parked on a fairly steep hill. After returning to car I was coming out to highway and went to pump brake twice (as had done because of air in line) almost put my head through windshield as air had bled itself
And Hod bless you also brother.
I should of known your a believer.
I’ve watch several vids
As many as 10!plus this last year.
Not one man showing many ways to bleed master clutch and brakes had the teaching wisdom this man displayed here.
Just fyi on the above.
Note a
Proverb ;
Wisdom and understanding makes the best teaching
This man kicks butt
Thank you for your kind words brother. I got saved when I was eight years old. I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving! 😊
I've always had a nice spray bottle that I use. Stick the tube in (make sure it's on stream so it doesn't take forever) and just squirt it in to the bottle that it came from. It'll take a couple weeks, but if you do it every other day the fluid will be replaced a little quicker. $40 in brake fluid beats $100 or more at a shop for a flush. You should still bleed your calipers to make sure there's no air in the lines.
Years ago I stopped by to see a mechanic I knew that worked at a lube/brake shop and he had a car on a lift. He proceeded to open all four bleeder screws at once and just let the fluid fall on the floor! Inside I was freaking out but he told me it was an old trick and closed the screws, let the car down and finished up. I didn't see if he had some way of refilling the master while bleeding the lines...
Very good
Nice tips. But if only replacing the master cylinder, the air can be bled at the brake line connections to it. Far easier task.
If you bleeder valve / screw is stuck be sure to use a six point wrench or socket. A twelve point will strip much easier. Also do not torque hydraulic valves or bleeder valves shut. They seal by the way they are designed with an angular seat. They do not need to be torqued to keep a good seal. People think it is a high pressure hydraulic safety issue, so it must be very tight. But that is not the case, just a very light finger tight will do. This is a common misunderstanding when people use jacks or bleeders and it will cause the part to stick when the next guy has to loosen it. Or it can destroy the hydraulic cylinder if it breaks when being removed.
You can torque it to the manufacturer's specs. It's not much, 7-10 Nm in my case. The worst is not having the protective cap on it and it'll seize from crap getting in it.
@@onpsxmember they always fall off
Danke sehr!
good point
Hi - just a note when raising the car, you need to look at each disc brake caliper and try and determine the position of the brake bleeder nipple ( the example you had was a rear drum so typically they are at 12 oclock high )
So some time they will not bleed as you have a air bubble between the bleeder nipple and the top of the internal piston, i had a ford that was difficult to bleed even with 2 people , eventually we had to jack the car up so that the bleeder was the highest point
I mentioned this to my local workshop, they mentioned some times that does not work, so the take the caliper of, insets some wood planks as a spacer between the disc piston and the backing plate, then bleed the caliper in 2 or 3 different positions until the get all the air out, then take out the wood spacer and place the caliper on the brake bracket
I use a hand operated vacuum pump with a reservoir to suck the air and fluid out. No pumping and a bit quicker. Works every time.
I've run into this on bikes that have a splitter for the front discs. I end up detaching the splitter from the triple tree and turning it to get rid of the high point that holds that bubble.
Good information. What brand shoes are you wearing?
Adidas Alpha Bounce. They are the most comfortable shoe I have ever worn in my life.
I don’t like this method, but I like your enthusiasm, thumbs up
Do you have to jack the car up for this to work or will it work if your wheels are still on the ground?
you have a new sub
This is just a low buck fluid flush, which I like but NOT an air bleeding procedure. Gravity bleeding is only really useful if you are changing calipers or wheel cylinders, it almost always never works on a master r&r. If you are installing a bench beld master the quickest way to finish the job is pump bleeding it, in my experience. Can't tell you how many people have came to my shop because they changed just one or 2 and then tried to bleed the whole system and jacked it up. But you also have the people that think you have to crack the hydraulic system open to do a normal brake job so...
If you are gravity bleeding it just let most of the old brake fluid drain out of the reservoir before topping it off. Your turkey will taste better. Use a coolant system pressure tester, press down against the round top and pump 3 or 4psi of air against the fluid. It moves the fluid over 10 times faster and moves it uphill if needed.
Round top is the fluid reservoir?
@@taurus38splul Yes.
Sounds risky on these cheap flimsy plastic reservoirs.Have to be super careful.Dont think I'd try that.imo
@@jaymartell2967 No its not risky. It's difficult and frustrating to hold it centered up and push down enough to seal it. They used to have pressure bleeders that stapped down against cast iron masters and latched down to the plastic round cap resevoirs. They used regulators to reduce shop air pressure, they would make a brake fluid mess if they leaked. A real risk with the paint. A haldheld coolant pressure pump never spits and the resevoir never splits. Think of coolant resevoirs that hold 15 psi for years.
Got it Done,thank dude
This works but it is my opinion that gravity bleeding leaves more old wet fluid trapped in "pockets" in the master cylinder and in the calipers near the pistons than does a method that forces fluid through the system rapidly under pressure (thus forcing fresh fluid in all sections of the master cylinder and near the caliper pistons). Also, gravity bleeding is less likely to remove any bubbles that stick to the internal hydraulic surfaces. However, if the system has not been opened (no trapped air) and the fluid has been changed often enough, this might not be a problem. Unfortunately, what the mechanic will usually find is old dark wet fluid. A workaround would be to gravity bleed a second time after driving the car for a while. However, even pumping the brake pedal between bleeding wheel cylinders and bleeding each wheel cylinder twice would be helpful.
Hi there. With gravity bleeding how can you sell if there is any air in the line still if you don't fill the bottle with some fluid?
Been my go-to procedure for 45 years.
Have you done this on abs equipped vehicles? Thanks
me too