I replaced all mine. It took a few hours but I just disconnected and removed old ones. I paid attention to where they came from and snaked the new ones into place. I had a helper and bought a kit I had to bend myself. Are they exact where and how the old ones were? No, but they are secure. I did a standard bleed with a helper pumping the brake pedal. It’s doable if your mechanically inclined!
I greatly appreciate this video because I just learned why I spent $1,000 dollars and the headache I gave my tech. I had one line that blew out on me in my 04' Sierra quad cab in same exact spot. I had him replace them all and he picked up a similar kit and it was the best decision I made.
Watching this video while doing this very problem except reg cab and less room [minus the scanner issue ] Nice to see that I'm not alone in making a routine repair into a jackpot.
On my 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 liter there is a proportioning valve between the master and the ABS. I just did a complete brake line replacement on this vehicle.@@MorFabIndustries
Glad I figured it out . Thats what makes you a champ . You got it done . Did you see the the little 3 way you can connect to the Mac with 6” of tube and then run to fronts wherever u want instead of going back to abs system and then back to the front to up through the radiator area , lol. Seems so simpler to use nicopp and zip ties but I ll prob end up buying a kit . I heard some of the nuts can’t be bought for that abs system or needs adapters or something like thst . I’m doing mine tomorrow . Not sure what to expect .
I wish you had shown how you got the new lines in to the back. That's what I came here for, but you jumped completely over that part. Oh well, on to someone else's video that shows what I need to see.
You should check into anger management, I just went thru the same process replacing brake lines, I had the same issue as you and in order to get the back ones to bleed we pulled all the wheels off had it on jackstands started the truck put it in gear then hit the brakes a few times, worked great, no need for a scanner.
All the break hookups were cut and need to know the lengths hoses are for 1988 chevy3500 4 X4 can you tell me or guide me to diagram that would show me how to hook them up and how long they are thank you Ms Beck
Awesome Video ! I have a question of my 1998 Chevrolet 7.4 L 1 ton Full Crew Cab Full 8 Ft bed Truck. The Break Bleeder Fittings are 7mm NOT 10mm. Finding Offset Long wrenches 7mm -12 point Longer then 8" do exist. Deep Socket to fit OVER the nipple possible? I remember doing a brake job drain-Flush but I was not the last to touch these as all the rubber nipple covers are Gone. How do get these loosened to bleed without stripping them. It seemed so easy to do when I did it 10 years ago. Am I just not thinking right? Thank you for ANY Advice to an older wrencher.
Just about to install a new kit on my '05 Tahoe. But the hard part - IMHO - is installing the right front line to the ABS module. How on earth do you do that when the line comes as one single long tube? Would have been nice to see how you did that. lf anyone knows some other video showing this part I'd love a link to it.
EVERY TUBING LINE, brake, trans, fuel, power steering.....charge us the 100.00 extra up front and make them all SS. Nobody should have to replace any of the lines that were the first thing that came down the assembly line on the frame. The only time they should have to be replaced is if they are damaged in a accident.
@@1pcmedic Agreed! My 2006 Chev. Silverado brake line just started leaking...rusted all to hell. Inherited truck from my late father and only has 64,000 original miles. I'm pissed off at the degree of work involved with this.
I mean we have computer screens in cars, and automatic lane steering assist, and all this happy horseshit, but they haven't figured out that brake lines should be stainless. God dammit pass a fucking law to require SS brake lines. And I'm a libertarian... WTF man, someone has to be making money by having brake lines that rot out.
I have just replaced all the front brake lines. I just got the truck and the guy before me drove the truck for god knows how long with a brake like (rear of the master cylinder). He drove the truck for a long time with it. Anyways. I have fluid at all four corners but pedal is still really soft. Almost to the floor. I have no scan tool but I’m looking for a way to possibly get air out of the ABS or any advice to stiffen the pedal.
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 I don't know honestly. I had an autel before this one and it was flawless. I got talked into this one by my matco guy to the tune of almost 4K and I have hated every day with it. Luckily I figured out how to hack the software to run on a normal samsung tablet so at least its faster now. When I can I'm going back to autel or even trying a snap-on.
Right on. I've field tested man, as a Diagnostician, and ultimately use Autel (ULTRA & IM608) for all my needs. I am about to move to away from the J2534 Autel boxes for programming tho, and go with Cardaq 3.
I just replaced all the lines on my 2000 silverado using the Doorman stainless kit. I didn't use a scan tool to bleed the system, and everything works fine. It took a long time to bleed everything with a helper, but we got it done. GM's use of shitty steel in these trucks is criminal. You probably should have replaced those gnarly flex hoses on the front calipers, but yeah...this jobs sucks.
Here's another tip. On my 2000 Silverado, the one-piece backing plates on the rear disc-brakes rotted off also. In order to install new one-piece plates, you have to pull the axle! Fuck that noise. Doorman (?) makes a two-piece plate you can install without pulling the axle! I got mine at Autozone. You're welcome! :D
hello! My girlfriend has a 2006 Silverado and forgive me b4 I start using crazy terms her. But the mounting box/housing for the break box that is shown @ 5.30sec of this video has completely broken off and is causing nothing but issues in terms of keeping the box secure now. It has caused line replacements multiple times from the box bouncing around. Can anyone assist with the actual name of this mount and any pointers on where to locate one?
@@jeffmckay3442 that is the ABS module mounting bracket. Most likely a dealer only part. You might find one on eBay or online. But dealer is your best bet
i'm cuerently doing the on an 06 suburban. i have 6 lines going to the abs and using the pre-bent kit, i have 2 lines going to the rear brakes, both marked RR does it make a difference which side they go on rear pass or rear driver?
I’ve got to replace all of my break lines on my 2004 Silverado. I’ve worked and worked fixing everything on this CHEVY with less than a 100k on it and now this! I said screw it, I went and bought a new FORD! I’ll never purchase another newer GM product for as long as I’m alive! But I will get up and running, I need my Chevy to haul my Mudstang to the drag strip. Thanks for the information, Very helpful!
I have an 03 duramax on 37 and 3in body lift in Illinois. The rust is real! Ur video has been the best so far. The body lift give me way more room to work on the lines. Thanks for this video. I love gnomes now:) Just Kidding! Great video
Did someone say $2,000.00 to replace the brake lines by dealer... so, what is the going price otherwise and if the cost is two grand is the truck worth it?
@@Kevin_Yagoonie a propane torch, I tried with mine got the fronts to crack but the rear have become one with the calipers - the new ones wear rubber plug jackets laced with silicon grease
IDK who is going to read this but step one is to crack the bleeders on the front brakes. If your state is anything like mine, the bleeders are rusted and will break and you will be ordering new calipers. Might as well get them coming while you're doing the lines.
I'm working on replacing all the lines on my 04 Chevy avalanche 2500 with the SS line kit and replacing all 5 brake hoses.I ended up dropping the gas tank for the rear line made it easier but more time and still working on the front definitely a job that takes some patience
Order the pre-bent stainless is best . especially the stabilitrak yukon and Avalanche because it has those VERY RARE flair fittings with 2 different thread sizes. I used the old fittings but be carefull not to mix them. The 2 larger threads go to the ABS module. I used copper bends easier.
Maybe confusion about the furthest wheel bleed first. I believe its the right front wheel longest line to the ABS module under the drivers seat area(newer chevy trucks and suburbans) As apposed to the right rear wheel on most all other vehicals. Also some yukons and Avalanche have 1/4inch lines. the "stabilitrak" system has 2 rear lines. Special flair fittings. I use the old flair fittings because they are 2 different size threads. I know right !🤕🆘🙈💣. You will only MAYBE find those 4 flairs at a dealership. Best to order the pre-bent line kit it stainless. Also i saw a aftermarket 4 inch flex tube adapter fitting to connect all the lines at the ABS where its near impossible to connect. 🤕💣
Thank you super helpful video ! I also think it should be a National traffic safety law to make manufacturers use SS lines . The kit costs $100 . What does an accident cost ? What if someone is critically hurt or worse ?
Same problem with my Silverado 1500HD. over $700 to replace lines, and was told that my transmission and fuel lines were rusting also. I never drive in snow or salted roads, my truck stays in driveway during adverse weather. This rust is because GM buys cheap chinese made steel lines and tubing. I will never again purchase a GM product. I see the same problems as I had with my old 1994 Silverado, same problems with Heating and Air Conditioning electronic sensors going bad, heater comes on when Air is selected, sounds like a diverter door is activating quite often, headliner is coming down, Truck bed is rusting apart, this is pure junk costing far too much. I still have a 1969 AMC car that has less rust and problems. GM should be ashamed, but they got my money this time, never again.
Same for me a 2001 Sierra change brake line transmission line cost a fortune now on my 2012 Sierra with 110 klm same problem a month ago and my transmission line change by Garage made a big mistake. They’re not connected properly transmission line empty itself . The transmission blew out the owner of the garage had to change my transmission with the rebuilt one over $4000 fired employee. What a mess I will never buy a GM again. not sure if I should sell the truck or repair myself. The brake line I figure it out. 🇨🇦 Ontario
Great video, but that top-left channel on the ABS module is the left/front or driver's side. GM says that "right" always means from the driver's perspective. Edit: you corrected yourself at the end so I withdraw this. Fantastic vid and I sub'd
Run the rear line from the back left tire/caliper. Make sure it runs up and over the frame or you will have trouble. Take a finger and hook into the hooked area of the line and carefully pull it through. Be absolutely patient and don't extend out the natural curvature of the line.
My opinion for a 2007 with less than a 100k, there was a lot of travel, in the NE, with salty ass roads. Still watching, because I’m in NW, and I need to replace the one that goes across my rear axle..
As the old saying goes, "while you're in there" the fuel lines are just as bad for rusting, and it's usually about the same time the brake lines go. I had both happen to me 50 miles from home.
andyvoytko yeah my 08 Dakota has been down over two weeks with getting the front brake lines replaced, I told them to while your at it do a transmission service and coolant. so far 1100.00 spent. I might as well prepare for the inevitable and make appointment to get everything else replaced too.
What worked for me in the past was tieing a string to the old one and pull the line out, now attach the string to the new one and pull the string back through
Was hoping for step by step of getting the replacement lines in, despite that not being the case your video hit the spot. I will never touch any GM post 1990 truck wise. I know it's naive but brake line rusting problems, and master cylinder, on a truck of this age is insane! I'm getting an older FORD. Bad news is I have a 01 YUKON with a rusted rear brake line I'll have to figure out. Life- a learning experience.
I got a ole 95 gmc dually I’m changing most of the brake lines from the gas tank back and the front were they set on the frame with that wire they wrap around them it makes the lines rust out faster cause dirt and salt the drivers side sucks but I’ll do it in a driveway with snow and ice I just put cardboard and a big door mat wis I had a lift it would be real nice I hope I can bleed them I hope my wheel cylinders come loose also lol I’m not doing them all cause I don’t have a scanner so longs I got enough brakes to drive t someone with scanner lol should be fun I’ve already bled them before with out a scanner it can be done but it’s hard I get pissed of the amount of salt they use in Canada I’m glad I don’t have the same system as you I got the Kelsey hays one I believe yours is a delco I don’t have a abs controller under the truck I feel bad for you but at least you have a scanner I’m sure I seen were you got a new one am I right
You are in the north east where they salt the roads. My 98 suburban has 225,000 miles no problems with the brake lines. Look at the truck frame it's rusting.
I did every line but the one going to the back. It burst later, had to take bed off and 2 of those bolts wouldn't come out. As soon as you get done with this go ahead and order your new power steering pump and lien for that system. This is a diesel 2500.
This has been a Great video. I have an 01 with the brake lines all rusted . I have quick repaired all four of the lines under the floor board driver side with compression fittings,but all this is doing is buying me a little time before a total replacement. This video was a big help ,showing me what you actually have to do.I am mentally able but cannot get under the truck due to back problems. ( I believe I could do it if I had a lift) I will definately have to take it to a shop. I am glad I saw this video before trying to do it by myself!!! Thanks!
It is unlawful to use compression fittings. They have the ability to come apart, therefore comes an accident. Not worth taking the chance. They do make unions that are specifically designed to join 2 brake tubing's together.
Purchased pre bent stainless steel lines and installed them. It took more then a few days to do so. Afterwards, I took my 2003 Silverado truck to the repair place in town to have the lines thoroughly bleed, only to tell me most of the lines leaked and needed to be replaced. I guess, I will never use steel lines again. @@kellismith4329
Thank you for sharing your knowledge - great video! I wish the local shops in my area would be thorough in troubleshooting and repairing: I just had a brake line puncture in my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500: brake fluid would disperse inside the engine compartment as if it was a garden hose mister whenever I hit the brake pedal. I didn't drive the truck after the instant I noticed my brake pedal was hitting the floorboard: I got on to the repair job as soon as I could within two-(2) weeks. If you were told by a auto repair shop "we have to replace two brake lines; the first the brake line that had the puncture and the second line because it comes off as a pair from the master cylinder" - How much do you think the cost of repair with labor cost? I will tell you the final cost of repair job when I have to return tomorrow; however, I am not happy with the price that I was told via the "Authorization telephone call" and the fact that they only did a "6 to 8 inch patch-job" unless they adjust the price because I did not see two new brake lines.
OMG!!! No wonder the GM dealer wants $2000 to fix my brakes. I guess it is a good thing it's not running because I would probably drive it through the showroom window. Not really.
I am really pissed about GM's lame ass brake lines as well. My truck has been just sitting for 2 years because I can't afford to have those lines replaced. That really sucks. I think by now my truck is junk. A total waste of hard earned money.
I am in the same boat. The motor and transmission will go 350K but the shit ass brake lines take the truck off the road - I am close to scraping it. No mechanic wants to do the work as they know how many hours of painstaking labor are involved and the truck is only worth $2 Grand.
@@bobnatas6981 took almost a week of time after work to do mine just finished the lines today now i need new calipers (3) and abs module ... not to mention the damm pump stripped out
Could you give me a rundown on the ABS brake lines for a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 series I don't know where the brake lines go from out of the ABS don't know what the lineup is could you give me a rundown on that and appreciate it and enjoy your videos
The rear lines on my 93 Caddy and C1500 rotted out. Just did the car and paid someone to do the truck about 10 year ago. Some of the stuff I see on these cars make me shudder.
what a load of crap/ you're the only guy ever to be able to just wrench the fittings off the abs module. we watch vids to find out how to do things this difficult. we already know how to take tires off.
Well then I must be magical. I have done 50+ of this exact job and not once have I ran into an issue with those fittings. Using the proper line wrenches and a bit of heat when needed and they come right out. Plus a bit of presoak in PB blaster helps too. And congrats on mastering the removal of tires! Thats a huge leap forward.
Getting ready to change out all lines on my 03. Was told that I may need to raise the cab or drop the tank. I see you worked the lines it without that, so it gives me hope for a simpler job. Still planning on a full day with one as backup! GM needs to issue a recall for this crap. I have blown out three times and am now putting in all stainless.
Instead of dropping the tank you can loosen the truck bed bolts on the driver side and raise that half of the bed just a bit to make it easier...but I have seen videos where the guy doing it did manage to snake the lines in without lifting the cab or bed but you need time and patience.
@@tomclose6643 The snow hit earlier than I hoped and with no garage I am going to wait until spring to replace my lines....pretty sure I will also pop off the truck bed anyway so I can clean the frame and do the cab corners properly too. But the video I was referencing does not mention the module. If you want to look at it: th-cam.com/video/ze0D7pcEnXg/w-d-xo.html. He mentions lifting the bed at about 4:50 into the video.
Hey, it's been seven months since you were on this vid I guess, but do you remember the kit you bought for your 03? Unless they are hiding the kit, I can't find it and it's pissing me off..
Can you tell me what type of flare is in line at the abs box. I’ve tried double flare and all leak so I’m not sure if they’re single or bubble I’m pretty sure they’re not double 🤦🏻♂️
I did it on a 2001 tahoe, it was a 3 person job. One pushing the line, one pulling the line with a string attached so it didn't kink and me making sure it followed the original path and fit back into the clips. I bought a full Dorman SS kit, 175.00 and will replace each line as needed. Too much work for something that have been SS from the factory. Don't get me started on the GM quick connect fittings that don't release because the line is rusted.....GMAFB!
@@MidnightFeeds did you ever get it through? I am gonna try too but might end up lifting the box off, it isn’t terrible to do I did it before for fuel pump
Manuel Mejia I’m sorry man. It’s literally just bending and tweaking until you get it in place. The passenger line is the hardest. I start from under the vehicle and sneak the drivers side of the line in. Then move to the other side.
Free scanner one very careful owner. New technology sucks bridge port 30+ years old and still works like the day it role of the production line. Old tools were built to last.
This video was a waste of my time. I never got to see how all the old lines were removed or how the new ones were put on. You said these lines were all pre-bent, but then you stated there were a couple that had to be bent 90°. I don't know what goes where and then your equipment breaks. Not a good video for me.
Literally
I replaced all mine. It took a few hours but I just disconnected and removed old ones. I paid attention to where they came from and snaked the new ones into place. I had a helper and bought a kit I had to bend myself. Are they exact where and how the old ones were? No, but they are secure. I did a standard bleed with a helper pumping the brake pedal. It’s doable if your mechanically inclined!
So instead of the plastic clips what would be recommended
That is a great question, I have done several brakeline kits but can never locate new retainersas some always break
I have removed worse bleeder screws that that right front by welding a nut on it.
Everyone has a welder in their cupboard, the caliper pins etc will be just as rusty - calipers aren’t very expensive
@@kellismith4329not if they have been greased properly, bleed screws however are way more exposed
I greatly appreciate this video because I just learned why I spent $1,000 dollars and the headache I gave my tech. I had one line that blew out on me in my 04' Sierra quad cab in same exact spot. I had him replace them all and he picked up a similar kit and it was the best decision I made.
$1000! Lol geez. The kit is $85 shipped from rockauto
Used a vise grip and muslce on my bleeder screw that was rusted out badly, replacing all 4 bleeder screws w new ones! Great video!
Watching this video while doing this very problem except reg cab and less room [minus the scanner issue ] Nice to see that I'm not alone in making a routine repair into a jackpot.
At 5:25 correction, the bottom two lines of the ABS unit go to the proportioning valve, not the master cylinder.
The bottom two lines go directly to the master. There is no prop valve. All proportioning is handled by the abs module.
On my 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 liter there is a proportioning valve between the master and the ABS. I just did a complete brake line replacement on this vehicle.@@MorFabIndustries
Depends on the brake system in your truck, the vacuum assist does not have proportion valve
@@metrork1do you have hydra boost master cyl?
Scan tool isn’t needed to bleed. Bleed the master cylinder two fittings first.Then vacuumed the fluid through from the right rear wheel.
Those two fittings are the lines that go into the master cylinder right? Do you crack them open and pump the pedal then close fitting?
Glad I figured it out . Thats what makes you a champ . You got it done . Did you see the the little 3 way you can connect to the Mac with 6” of tube and then run to fronts wherever u want instead of going back to abs system and then back to the front to up through the radiator area , lol. Seems so simpler to use nicopp and zip ties but I ll prob end up buying a kit . I heard some of the nuts can’t be bought for that abs system or needs adapters or something like thst . I’m doing mine tomorrow . Not sure what to expect .
I used a bleeder vacuum tool, plus bled the proportionate valve two lines.
I replaced the front lines on my 05 Silverado. I was told while pumping to bleeding each brake to have the ignition to on position. Is this right?
I wish you had shown how you got the new lines in to the back. That's what I came here for, but you jumped completely over that part. Oh well, on to someone else's video that shows what I need to see.
You should check into anger management, I just went thru the same process replacing brake lines, I had the same issue as you and in order to get the back ones to bleed we pulled all the wheels off had it on jackstands started the truck put it in gear then hit the brakes a few times, worked great, no need for a scanner.
Got 2 minutes in before you mentioned anything about the project I came here for
Welcome to 99% of all videos.
All the break hookups were cut and need to know the lengths hoses are for 1988 chevy3500 4 X4 can you tell me or guide me to diagram that would show me how to hook them up and how long they are thank you Ms Beck
Awesome Video ! I have a question of my 1998 Chevrolet 7.4 L 1 ton Full Crew Cab Full 8 Ft bed Truck. The Break Bleeder Fittings are 7mm NOT 10mm. Finding Offset Long wrenches 7mm -12 point Longer then 8" do exist. Deep Socket to fit OVER the nipple possible? I remember doing a brake job drain-Flush but I was not the last to touch these as all the rubber nipple covers are Gone. How do get these loosened to bleed without stripping them. It seemed so easy to do when I did it 10 years ago. Am I just not thinking right? Thank you for ANY Advice to an older wrencher.
Propane torch and spray may help, but they rust bad - plan on calipers. After service is done, rubber caps with silicon grease goes on them
Just about to install a new kit on my '05 Tahoe. But the hard part - IMHO - is installing the right front line to the ABS module. How on earth do you do that when the line comes as one single long tube? Would have been nice to see how you did that. lf anyone knows some other video showing this part I'd love a link to it.
@@Mercury4952 it’s not fun. You have to straighten it a bit and carefully snake it through everything. It’s doable it just sucks.
@@MorFabIndustriesThanks! Still wonder where you start and with what part of the line?
Should be mandatory that all break lines are made of stainless steel.
EVERY TUBING LINE, brake, trans, fuel, power steering.....charge us the 100.00 extra up front and make them all SS. Nobody should have to replace any of the lines that were the first thing that came down the assembly line on the frame. The only time they should have to be replaced is if they are damaged in a accident.
@@1pcmedic Agreed! My 2006 Chev. Silverado brake line just started leaking...rusted all to hell. Inherited truck from my late father and only has 64,000 original miles. I'm pissed off at the degree of work involved with this.
Not to mention every GM trans I've ever worked on was to the cooler lines failing. Decently engineered but the production quality is just sad.
I mean we have computer screens in cars, and automatic lane steering assist, and all this happy horseshit, but they haven't figured out that brake lines should be stainless. God dammit pass a fucking law to require SS brake lines. And I'm a libertarian... WTF man, someone has to be making money by having brake lines that rot out.
@@mensaswede4028 You don't see any Chevy dealers going broke, do you?
Days away from doing the complete brake line job on a 2005 Silverado...... few months ago I did one on a 2005 Escalade
You fixed that scanner!
I have just replaced all the front brake lines. I just got the truck and the guy before me drove the truck for god knows how long with a brake like (rear of the master cylinder). He drove the truck for a long time with it.
Anyways. I have fluid at all four corners but pedal is still really soft. Almost to the floor. I have no scan tool but I’m looking for a way to possibly get air out of the ABS or any advice to stiffen the pedal.
Launch scanners suck
I agree 100%. Worst money I ever spent
@@MorFabIndustries idk how they're managing to stay relevant in our industry.
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 I don't know honestly. I had an autel before this one and it was flawless. I got talked into this one by my matco guy to the tune of almost 4K and I have hated every day with it. Luckily I figured out how to hack the software to run on a normal samsung tablet so at least its faster now. When I can I'm going back to autel or even trying a snap-on.
Right on. I've field tested man, as a Diagnostician, and ultimately use Autel (ULTRA & IM608) for all my needs. I am about to move to away from the J2534 Autel boxes for programming tho, and go with Cardaq 3.
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 awesome. I don’t do diag all that often anymore with all this jeep frame stuff but I’m def going Autel for my next unit.
I just replaced all the lines on my 2000 silverado using the Doorman stainless kit. I didn't use a scan tool to bleed the system, and everything works fine. It took a long time to bleed everything with a helper, but we got it done. GM's use of shitty steel in these trucks is criminal. You probably should have replaced those gnarly flex hoses on the front calipers, but yeah...this jobs sucks.
I would have much more payed the $100 up front to have stainless. took me about 3 days. Had to replace both rear calipers.
Here's another tip. On my 2000 Silverado, the one-piece backing plates on the rear disc-brakes rotted off also. In order to install new one-piece plates, you have to pull the axle! Fuck that noise. Doorman (?) makes a two-piece plate you can install without pulling the axle! I got mine at Autozone.
You're welcome! :D
Last time I buy a Chevy truck. JUNK
I used those as well, that whole pkg brake design is super sketch - I miss my drum brakes
hello! My girlfriend has a 2006 Silverado and forgive me b4 I start using crazy terms her. But the mounting box/housing for the break box that is shown @ 5.30sec of this video has completely broken off and is causing nothing but issues in terms of keeping the box secure now. It has caused line replacements multiple times from the box bouncing around. Can anyone assist with the actual name of this mount and any pointers on where to locate one?
@@jeffmckay3442 that is the ABS module mounting bracket. Most likely a dealer only part. You might find one on eBay or online. But dealer is your best bet
Need to see how you get the lines in
i'm cuerently doing the on an 06 suburban. i have 6 lines going to the abs and using the pre-bent kit, i have 2 lines going to the rear brakes, both marked RR does it make a difference which side they go on rear pass or rear driver?
Yes it does
I’ve got to replace all of my break lines on my 2004 Silverado. I’ve worked and worked fixing everything on this CHEVY with less than a 100k on it and now this! I said screw it, I went and bought a new FORD! I’ll never purchase another newer GM product for as long as I’m alive! But I will get up and running, I need my Chevy to haul my Mudstang to the drag strip. Thanks for the information, Very helpful!
This issue is not inherant to GM trucks, I did my Fords last year
I didn’t need to raise my cab or cut any lines.
I have an 03 duramax on 37 and 3in body lift in Illinois. The rust is real! Ur video has been the best so far. The body lift give me way more room to work on the lines. Thanks for this video. I love gnomes now:) Just Kidding! Great video
Did someone say $2,000.00 to replace the brake lines by dealer... so, what is the going price otherwise and if the cost is two grand is the truck worth it?
Don’t throw the truck away over a $120 part, just lots of labor
Here is a hint. if you have to get a sledge hammer out to take the wheels off due to corrosion, you are not going to have a smooth day.
I would have tried the old "Fire Wrench" to remove the bleed screw, I have had success removing them in worse condition then the one you displayed.
What's a fire wrench?
Torch@@Kevin_Yagoonie
@@Kevin_Yagoonie a propane torch, I tried with mine got the fronts to crack but the rear have become one with the calipers - the new ones wear rubber plug jackets laced with silicon grease
IDK who is going to read this but step one is to crack the bleeders on the front brakes. If your state is anything like mine, the bleeders are rusted and will break and you will be ordering new calipers. Might as well get them coming while you're doing the lines.
Maybe all bleeders?
I'm working on replacing all the lines on my 04 Chevy avalanche 2500 with the SS line kit and replacing all 5 brake hoses.I ended up dropping the gas tank for the rear line made it easier but more time and still working on the front definitely a job that takes some patience
Great video!! Thank you
Order the pre-bent stainless is best . especially the stabilitrak yukon and Avalanche because it has those VERY RARE flair fittings with 2 different thread sizes. I used the old fittings but be carefull not to mix them. The 2 larger threads go to the ABS module. I used copper bends easier.
Maybe confusion about the furthest wheel bleed first. I believe its the right front wheel longest line to the ABS module under the drivers seat area(newer chevy trucks and suburbans) As apposed to the right rear wheel on most all other vehicals.
Also some yukons and Avalanche have 1/4inch lines. the "stabilitrak" system has 2 rear lines. Special flair fittings. I use the old flair fittings because they are 2 different size threads.
I know right !🤕🆘🙈💣. You will only MAYBE find those 4 flairs at a dealership.
Best to order the pre-bent line kit it stainless. Also i saw a aftermarket 4 inch flex tube adapter fitting to connect all the lines at the ABS where its near impossible to connect.
🤕💣
I color coded my line with a small paint brush before removing.
Be sure to bleed the two proportionate fittings first, then if necessary the wheels.
What's the proportionate fittings?
They go to the proportioning valve which is located between the Master cylinder and the ABS unit.@@Kevin_Yagoonie
Thank you super helpful video ! I also think it should be a National traffic safety law to make manufacturers use SS lines . The kit costs $100 . What does an accident cost ? What if someone is critically hurt or worse ?
brake line blew out pulling out of the driveway
Same problem with my Silverado 1500HD. over $700 to replace lines, and was told that my transmission and fuel lines were rusting also. I never drive in snow or salted roads, my truck stays in driveway during adverse weather. This rust is because GM buys cheap chinese made steel lines and tubing. I will never again purchase a GM product. I see the same problems as I had with my old 1994 Silverado, same problems with Heating and Air Conditioning electronic sensors going bad, heater comes on when Air is selected, sounds like a diverter door is activating quite often, headliner is coming down, Truck bed is rusting apart, this is pure junk costing far too much. I still have a 1969 AMC car that has less rust and problems. GM should be ashamed, but they got my money this time, never again.
Same for me a 2001 Sierra change brake line transmission line cost a fortune now on my 2012 Sierra with 110 klm same problem a month ago and my transmission line change by Garage made a big mistake. They’re not connected properly transmission line empty itself . The transmission blew out the owner of the garage had to change my transmission with the rebuilt one over $4000 fired employee. What a mess I will never buy a GM again. not sure if I should sell the truck or repair myself. The brake line I figure it out. 🇨🇦 Ontario
Great video, but that top-left channel on the ABS module is the left/front or driver's side. GM says that "right" always means from the driver's perspective. Edit: you corrected yourself at the end so I withdraw this. Fantastic vid and I sub'd
Waste of time would like to know if you ran the brake lines in from the front which line you shoved in first and so forth.
What I was most hoping to see in the video is how to run the new rear line. That on'e got me scratching my head right now...
Theres no science to it. I literally just snake it through the frame and next to the fuel tank. It's a pain in the ass but it gets there.
Run the rear line from the back left tire/caliper. Make sure it runs up and over the frame or you will have trouble. Take a finger and hook into the hooked area of the line and carefully pull it through. Be absolutely patient and don't extend out the natural curvature of the line.
LOL!!! I've tried to teach 2 scanners how to fly. Both failed miserably.
My opinion for a 2007 with less than a 100k, there was a lot of travel, in the NE, with salty ass roads. Still watching, because I’m in NW, and I need to replace the one that goes across my rear axle..
Scanner is a waste of money? WTH?? RIP scanner lol
As the old saying goes, "while you're in there" the fuel lines are just as bad for rusting, and it's usually about the same time the brake lines go. I had both happen to me 50 miles from home.
andyvoytko yeah my 08 Dakota has been down over two weeks with getting the front brake lines replaced, I told them to while your at it do a transmission service and coolant. so far 1100.00 spent.
I might as well prepare for the inevitable and make appointment to get everything else replaced too.
Would have liked to see you snake the lines in. Especially the right front which travels between engine and radiator.
I’m currently trying to tackle this project on my truck I’m curious how you got the lines between the wiring harness and the body mount
Magic and prayer ;)
@@MorFabIndustries That was a dumb reply. Can't you answer the guy's question with a real answer?
What worked for me in the past was tieing a string to the old one and pull the line out, now attach the string to the new one and pull the string back through
6min in and ur way better than the hillbilly repair squad. Thank God
Was hoping for step by step of getting the replacement lines in, despite that not being the case your video hit the spot. I will never touch any GM post 1990 truck wise. I know it's naive but brake line rusting problems, and master cylinder, on a truck of this age is insane! I'm getting an older FORD. Bad news is I have a 01 YUKON with a rusted rear brake line I'll have to figure out. Life- a learning experience.
I got a ole 95 gmc dually I’m changing most of the brake lines from the gas tank back and the front were they set on the frame with that wire they wrap around them it makes the lines rust out faster cause dirt and salt the drivers side sucks but I’ll do it in a driveway with snow and ice I just put cardboard and a big door mat wis I had a lift it would be real nice I hope I can bleed them I hope my wheel cylinders come loose also lol I’m not doing them all cause I don’t have a scanner so longs I got enough brakes to drive t someone with scanner lol should be fun I’ve already bled them before with out a scanner it can be done but it’s hard I get pissed of the amount of salt they use in Canada I’m glad I don’t have the same system as you I got the Kelsey hays one I believe yours is a delco I don’t have a abs controller under the truck I feel bad for you but at least you have a scanner I’m sure I seen were you got a new one am I right
Question, minus the master cylinder issue what was the labor cost for doing this job ?
Chris Pellicci the job runs about $700 total. Parts and labor.
What did labor just cost ?
Chris Pellicci $600
Good work how much does a job like this cost?
Haha, you should see if Matco will cover it under warranty. Wish you videoed it.
You are in the north east where they salt the roads. My 98 suburban has 225,000 miles no problems with the brake lines. Look at the truck frame it's rusting.
The stuff destroys vehicles
Might as well order 4 calipers, bleeders are made of peanutbutter.
I did every line but the one going to the back. It burst later, had to take bed off and 2 of those bolts wouldn't come out. As soon as you get done with this go ahead and order your new power steering pump and lien for that system. This is a diesel 2500.
@@jmilner6488 You took the bed off? Dammit, girl. You're hardcore! ;)
All of the pumps will fail, fuel, water, and steering
The owner probly doesn't drive it proudly sits a lot Of it time in dirt sits in dirt so that doesn't help Anything that holds a puddle or water
Where did you buy the brake line kit? Ive been looking online for my 93 chevy 1500 but cant find any whole kits
Inline tube
This has been a Great video. I have an 01 with the brake lines all rusted . I have quick repaired all four of the lines under the floor board driver side with compression fittings,but all this is doing is buying me a little time before a total replacement. This video was a big help ,showing me what you actually have to do.I am mentally able but cannot get under the truck due to back problems. ( I believe I could do it if I had a lift) I will definately have to take it to a shop. I am glad I saw this video before trying to do it by myself!!! Thanks!
You're welcome!
It is unlawful to use compression fittings. They have the ability to come apart, therefore comes an accident. Not worth taking the chance. They do make unions that are specifically designed to join 2 brake tubing's together.
@@metrork1 better yet, they make a replacement kit out of nickel copper which is easily flexible
Purchased pre bent stainless steel lines and installed them. It took more then a few days to do so. Afterwards, I took my 2003 Silverado truck to the repair place in town to have the lines thoroughly bleed, only to tell me most of the lines leaked and needed to be replaced. I guess, I will never use steel lines again. @@kellismith4329
My thoughts and prayers go out to the scanner. RIP.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge - great video! I wish the local shops in my area would be thorough in troubleshooting and repairing: I just had a brake line puncture in my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500: brake fluid would disperse inside the engine compartment as if it was a garden hose mister whenever I hit the brake pedal. I didn't drive the truck after the instant I noticed my brake pedal was hitting the floorboard: I got on to the repair job as soon as I could within two-(2) weeks. If you were told by a auto repair shop "we have to replace two brake lines; the first the brake line that had the puncture and the second line because it comes off as a pair from the master cylinder" - How much do you think the cost of repair with labor cost? I will tell you the final cost of repair job when I have to return tomorrow; however, I am not happy with the price that I was told via the "Authorization telephone call" and the fact that they only did a "6 to 8 inch patch-job" unless they adjust the price because I did not see two new brake lines.
To repair the two master cyl lines, meaning complete replacement of those lines, parts and labor would be around $200 total give or take a bit.
When you get a new scan tool I would like to see how to bleed the brakes with an ABS module
Gotta do this to my 05. Not even sure if its worth the money because I'd have to go to a shop.
And the truck has 268K on it. I dont know what to do
I'd say if the cost is under $1000 and the truck is in decent shape otherwise, go for it!
@@MorFabIndustries found a guy that will do it for $400
That’s a steal! Make sure he’s legit and using good materials
@@MorFabIndustries yes he's a certified mechanic and has all the tools. Friend of my stepmom. Cant wait to have my truck back lol
I already bought the Dorman stainless complete lines kit. Hes gonna use that
OMG!!! No wonder the GM dealer wants $2000 to fix my brakes. I guess it is a good thing it's not running because I would probably drive it through the showroom window. Not really.
once lines are replace how can one protect them to last longer
Best way is to sell it.
I am really pissed about GM's lame ass brake lines as well. My truck has been just sitting for 2 years because I can't afford to have those lines replaced. That really sucks. I think by now my truck is junk. A total waste of hard earned money.
I am in the same boat. The motor and transmission will go 350K but the shit ass brake lines take the truck off the road - I am close to scraping it. No mechanic wants to do the work as they know how many hours of painstaking labor are involved and the truck is only worth $2 Grand.
@@bobnatas6981 took almost a week of time after work to do mine just finished the lines today now i need new calipers (3) and abs module ... not to mention the damm pump stripped out
Did u have any issues with leaks due to stainless being harder?
no leaks
Could you give me a rundown on the ABS brake lines for a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 series I don't know where the brake lines go from out of the ABS don't know what the lineup is could you give me a rundown on that and appreciate it and enjoy your videos
Do a google image search. There are thousands of pictures that layout the correct positioning of the lines.
TY very informative and entertaining
The rear lines on my 93 Caddy and C1500 rotted out. Just did the car and paid someone to do the truck about 10 year ago. Some of the stuff I see on these cars make me shudder.
That bleeder bolt... Hit it with some oxy/ac and a good pair of vice grips would have gotten it out.
And a shop can still use that in a customer's car after torching a caliper???
what a load of crap/ you're the only guy ever to be able to just wrench the fittings off the abs module. we watch vids to find out how to do things this difficult. we already know how to take tires off.
Well then I must be magical. I have done 50+ of this exact job and not once have I ran into an issue with those fittings. Using the proper line wrenches and a bit of heat when needed and they come right out. Plus a bit of presoak in PB blaster helps too. And congrats on mastering the removal of tires! Thats a huge leap forward.
is this possible without having it in the air?
Could you link the kit in the description?
Just bought an 05 and otw home, the rear brake line broke. 🙀
gm garbage.. had a truck lost its brakes while in traffic... let's just say it wasn't pretty
Getting ready to change out all lines on my 03. Was told that I may need to raise the cab or drop the tank. I see you worked the lines it without that, so it gives me hope for a simpler job. Still planning on a full day with one as backup! GM needs to issue a recall for this crap. I have blown out three times and am now putting in all stainless.
Instead of dropping the tank you can loosen the truck bed bolts on the driver side and raise that half of the bed just a bit to make it easier...but I have seen videos where the guy doing it did manage to snake the lines in without lifting the cab or bed but you need time and patience.
@@goodnamesareallgone1 what about ebcm moduile under truckbed is that in the way??
@@tomclose6643 The snow hit earlier than I hoped and with no garage I am going to wait until spring to replace my lines....pretty sure I will also pop off the truck bed anyway so I can clean the frame and do the cab corners properly too. But the video I was referencing does not mention the module. If you want to look at it: th-cam.com/video/ze0D7pcEnXg/w-d-xo.html. He mentions lifting the bed at about 4:50 into the video.
Hey, it's been seven months since you were on this vid I guess, but do you remember the kit you bought for your 03? Unless they are hiding the kit, I can't find it and it's pissing me off..
I quit, the truck will never get fixed.
LOL
Can you tell me what type of flare is in line at the abs box. I’ve tried double flare and all leak so I’m not sure if they’re single or bubble I’m pretty sure they’re not double 🤦🏻♂️
They are double, one is folded back on the other, bubble flares are metric
How much does something like this cost? Parts and labor
It's right around $800 parts and labor.
Do you have a part number for this kit?
Varies with the equipment on the truck
Great vid I’m doing this on my 2002 Chevy Silverado and how hard was the rear line to do without lifting the cab?
It's not too bad. You may have to bend and straighten a bit to snake it through but it's def doable.
MorFab Industries Thanks I’ll give her a try I keep running into very minimal room between the cab and the frame
I did it on a 2001 tahoe, it was a 3 person job. One pushing the line, one pulling the line with a string attached so it didn't kink and me making sure it followed the original path and fit back into the clips. I bought a full Dorman SS kit, 175.00 and will replace each line as needed. Too much work for something that have been SS from the factory. Don't get me started on the GM quick connect fittings that don't release because the line is rusted.....GMAFB!
@@MidnightFeeds did you ever get it through? I am gonna try too but might end up lifting the box off, it isn’t terrible to do I did it before for fuel pump
That’s funny dude my same exact brake line popped on my suburban doing them today 🙄
You didn't show us how you sneak the two front lines & that's what I needed help with.🤦♂️
Manuel Mejia I’m sorry man. It’s literally just bending and tweaking until you get it in place. The passenger line is the hardest. I start from under the vehicle and sneak the drivers side of the line in. Then move to the other side.
@@MorFabIndustries How long did it take you to replace all the lines?
@@mejia69210plan on several days
do you remember where you got these, or the PN#? I see SS lines, but none coated like these.
The poly coated ones are not stainless
great info
Free scanner one very careful owner. New technology sucks bridge port 30+ years old and still works like the day it role of the production line. Old tools were built to last.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, so if you don’t change it often you get water in it and that rusts the brake lines out from the inside.
RIP malfunctioning scantool. :(
This video was a waste of my time. I never got to see how all the old lines were removed or how the new ones were put on. You said these lines were all pre-bent, but then you stated there were a couple that had to be bent 90°. I don't know what goes where and then your equipment breaks. Not a good video for me.
What size are these lines 5/16?
1/4"
What scan tool are you going to get to replace the matco one?
Not sure yet. I had an Autel brand scanner years ago and i loved it. I may go back to them.
I like your style! I'm doing the same job in Kansaa when I watched your video and I subscribed!
How much did you charge to do this
The average is 6-700 including parts.
@@MorFabIndustries totally fucking worth it evey red cent that shit looks like a pain in the ass times 10
do i need to buy a auto bleeder for the abs ?
LMAO! RIP scanner, you poor guy. This job sucked.
Thanks for the info !!!!!