How to safely repair leaking and rusted brake lines
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2025
- Did you lose brake pressure? Are your brake lines rusted? If so, this video will show you how to deal with rusted, corroded or damaged brake lines by installing a union.
When it comes to brakes, it can get expensive quickly! You might consider repairing your own brake lines but are afraid that you'll compromise your vehicle's safety. No need to worry. This video will take you through all the steps necessary to perform the repair easily and safely. It's as easy as replacing brake pads.
The parts used in this video can be found at your local auto parts store. Just ask the clerk for the proper size of union for your vehicle.
♦♦If you find this video useful, remember to give it a thumbs up!♦♦
Disclaimer:
Due to unforeseen factors beyond the control of SuperSpeakers, it cannot guarantee that the information provided here has not been modified or altered in any way, shape or form. SuperSpeakers does not assume liability for any injury or property damage incurred as a result of the information contained in this video. The information contained in this video does not express or imply any warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any loss, damage or injury incurred as a result of the tools, equipment or information provided in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
In answer to a bunch of the statements below...not everyone has the money to run out and buy new brake lines. Or maybe you need to get your vehicle back up and running quickly until you have time to do the whole replacement. Thats my situation. No time. I need my brakes to work NOW to get to work! New brake line kits are ordered and on the way. Until I have the time to do the job, they will sit in the box.
HELL YA
... INDEED. Not to mention if you're working outside in asshole deep snow, and PRAYING the rest of the fittings will come off. MENTAL NOTE: Buy stock in PB BLASTER. And COMPRESSION FITTINGS? Hell, they may be illegal in some states, but I've used them in a pinch with NO PROBLEMS as long as it's done right, prep work is VITAL to this application. We have all these DYI vids on YT that may BE very informative, but unless you do it right ... it makes no difference. If you are a DIY person, take the time to do it right, ... SLOW IS FAST.
The only thing I see is a 5 dollar line that’s full of scale so the line is obviously thin in places rust is a layer of metal so I don’t see taking a piece of sand paper or scotch brute to sand down a line I don’t think you have to replace the whole thing but why bother with old scales line wen you can buy the ones with fittings and all flared for next to nothing thers a lot of pressure in them lines it takes nothing for rusted lines to blow if you want to get it back up and quickly the size of the line you wer fixing you could have bought for 5 bucks fitting and flared I’m sure you have 5 bucks I don’t put rusted line back on ther could be pin holes in them that’s all
@@jeffleblanc8850 True enough, if you got the damn thing off, you can get it back on. If you don't have five bux, where the fuck you need to be anyway?
Well done SAID, Get her done!
watched a lot of videos on here as a novice,yours is the only 1 that shows how the copper union works,i was thinking it worked another way!,thanks again.
I've watched a number of videos on repairing brake lines now, and yours is the only one I finished. Outstanding! Now I'm ready to fix my brakes. Thank you!
OMG! Great video but if you've pulled the brake line off, then BUY A NEW ONE! $25 IS ALL for a brand NEW ONE! C'mon! You'd be doing it anyway in a year if you've got that much rust on 1 part already. GIVE GOOD, THOROUGH info on the most important part of the car!
Taylor Mitchell hey dummy, you don’t think this was done as an example? OMG like chill out riiggghht!??
Nickel-Copper (NiCop) brake lines. Best stuff ever. Bend by hand, no kinks, double flares beautifully. More expensive but eliminates all frustration. Worth it.
Thanks!
Mar Blox 🤣👏🏾👏🏾
Couldn't agree more. I replaced every line on my 2500 suburban, pain in the ass, but alot easier with nicopp lines
@@markbelden6919 I love those old Suburbans. I used to have one. I also used to have 77 Chevy Blazer K5. Loved it! Built like a tank.
@@michiganmagneto mine defwasnt as cool as a '77, mine is a rust belt 2001, I do love her though,
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! My old truck is rusted from stem to stern underneath, and I blew a brake line bleeding the brakes after installing new pads, rotors and calipers. For $75 I got a full set of pre-bent brake lines, but some of them are too long, or bent in such a way you'd have to take out the gas tank, take out the radiator, remove front end parts- take the body off the frame almost to get these pre-bent lines in where I need them. Instead, I can cut the really oddly shaped ones in 2 pieces, slide them in from both ends and splice them in the middle. I don't want to use compression fittings for the reasons mentioned in the video, so yeah- this is exactly the tutorial I was looking for. Thanks!
Glad to see someone using the proper procedure for brake lines . I've had many arguments with people that have no idea what their doing using single flare, especially with aluminum lines used on small aircraft
I really appreciate your thorough explanation of every detail involved. Particularly the information about the different type of fitting at the end, because in relation to my situation it let me know whether or not I can use the compression fitting on the job I'm doing. I'm fixing a leak in my fuel line and I wasn’t sure about the fitting that was supplied with my repair kit. I'm pretty sure it'll be ok since it's not under as high of pressure as a break line is. Anyway, thank you for your helpful video.
Flares are better than compression rings. Always. Once you have the tool, it's just a matter of discipline to do the flares and that pays off after the first repair. Thanks for showing this so clearly!!
I have owned severl older vehicles with steel brake lines and live in the salt belt. Over the years, I learned that you should always have ample brake line parts (e.g. brake lines, fittings and tools) on hand at all times. Also, replace as much of the leaky brake line(s) as possible when doing a brake line job. Take it from someone who has done dozens of brake line repair jobs over the past 50 years.
This is just the information I needed to tackle my burst brake line at my front passenger side of my Dakota. Appreciate the clear close-ups on the flaring details such as setting the line height in the anvil part the same as the thickest part of the die. thanks again.
I've worked on cars for 50yrs. Never before had a problem with brake lines, until now. A 96 accd. Pinhole underneath driverside rear seat area. I figured car must've been exposed to snow conditions. Went to pickapart to buy replacement. Spent 3hrs including removing gas tank, only to be stumped with one last bolt hidden behind frame/suspention. So I've searched through utube and found this(and) other videos like this. This is the best(1 other) cuz of explanation about compression fittings. Will use this. Lucky my car is only my backup but will replace complete after I get my #1 back and on the road again. Thanks. Now, off to the store to get what I need.
Thanks for watching! Protective coatings aren’t what they used to be. Things break down and rust much faster then they used to.
A great tutorial on brake line repair, I have been doing auto repair in New England for almost 50 years so have lots of experience with rusty brake lines. I would like to add use the copper/nichol brake tubing for replacement as it doesn't rust, is easier to cut and flare and very easy to bend by hand. I by it by the 25' roll so replace whole line instead or patching sections.
I'm in northern Michigan. We replace A LOT of brake lines. That copper nickel line is awesome to work with.
Really is an excellent straight to the point tutorial.Anyone can do this with a little patience.And yes compression fittings are a BIG no-no....but if you have to,they will work temporarily in a pinch.And I mean temporary....be ready to pull the e brake when braking if you have a compression fitting being used temporary to get you home..
Thank you so much for this. This made it super easy to understand the steps and proper way to fix a small section. I’m going to do this since the previous owner used a compression fitting, and like you said, when jamming the brakes hard, it made it leak. Appreciate your time in making this video!
Outstanding video sir. I had to repair my 2004 Nissan Quest because the brake line rusted out just before the fitting that plugs into the flex hose going to the caliper. Replacing that whole line was not an option because it is behind everything including the intake manifold as it heads to the ABS unit on the passenger side. The line was in perfect condition inside the engine compartment, so using your guide, and a 20 dollar flaring kit from Amazon, I was able to replace a mere foot of line and I'm back on the road for a pittance. Thank you!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching.
Good video, you answered all my questions , I have a old truck and lost a line. Neighbor let me use his flare kit , had no idea how to use it. Plus the fact that you mentioned not to use compression fittings , which I use at work all the time . So Thank you for the video
Great video ESPECIALLY the warning about compression fittings and the danger of using them.
Compression fittings are capable of withstanding 5000 psi way more than brake system will ever see.
@YUKI JINJUJI
IF it's done right AND with the right materials, which is often less than likely to happen.
They're fine. Never seen one fail. They always outlast the car
The best video on this subject on youtube. Thanks man.
Keep the inside of your lines clean after cutting and de-burring the ends so metal shavings don't remain. Any contaminates left inside the lines can prove fatal to any brake system in no time. Debris may jam the piston or quickly destroy the seals and o-rings. If lines are still on the vehicle, you can carefully twist a Q-tip inside both ends while to capture debris. Don't worry about leaving a piece of Q-tip hair behind, it's less detrimental that metal shaving floating around in your system. IF the lines are off the vehicle, blow/flush the lines out well. If you flush the lines with water, blow them out. Cleanliness is more important that anything. Keep the system sterile.
It's a blow job
I know the video is 5 years old but great info, thanks for making it.
This is an excellent description of technique, and I really like the way you had a go at why compression fittings are inappropriate for brake lines. Of course compression fittings are used all the time for water installations, but there are illegal for brake fittings for good reason. Part of the reason they are illegal is because they could be easily assembled incorrectly, with no early warning until it suddenly fails. If that ferrule is installed too close to the tip of the line on one side, it may not grip the line as well as it would normally. So, those who claim that a properly installed compression fitting works fine have some justification for that point of view. The problem is that it would be much easier to make a mistake, especially in a situation where the operator cuts the line a little too short and he is in a hurry to complete the task under the car. If the tip of each line is not properly jammed into each end of the fitting, or if it creeps back while it is being tightened down, the ferrule is incorrectly installed but it looks just fine from the outside. If he forgets to crank down one side, it may seem to work fine until the ferrule creeps back with time. A tech could do a thousand of those fittings and if one side of one fitting is bad, he's made a mistake that could cost a life. With no way to detect incorrect installation, the customer is left with a car that is a danger to others on the road when it suddenly fails. On the other hand a bad union will immediately leak, pointing to the need to fix it right away. Even influential internet 'experts' like Scotty Kilmer get this wrong, you can't trust everything you read on the net.
Be ready with the e brake when brakes fail....so it doesn't cost a life.
Going above and beyond in your explanation after around minute 7 got you a thumbs up from me. Great vid!
I've watched a lot of videos on this subject and yours was the best. Nicely filmed, stayed on topic and clearly explained what to do.
Thanks so much for an excellent tutorial video. I watched the video 3 times so I could remember the exact steps. It's not so complicated now after watching your video. Thumbs up!
I just replaced 2 lines on our old cavalier....On one I had to buy 2 pcs and tie together so I asked for a proper union. They brought me two compression fittings, which was nuts as the lines had 2 threaded ends and would have had to cut to use...to get a poor splice. Gotta love Advance Auto.....
exactly what i needed. clear concise on point. this made my day.
Glad you showed and explained the difference between a brake line union and a compression union. Lots of times the guy at the parts counter will toss up a compression union and say you're good to go.
Yeah, you're better off replacing the whole line, but sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do.
A point and a question - I think you'd be better off using flare nut wrenches and could you use brake fluid instead of ATF as a lubricant?
Verey good video - Thanks for posting.
Great job! I would ony add that after deburring the inside of the line, tap it on a block of wood to dislodge any chips that may have dropped into the line.
😢 I really enjoyed your video. I think it was everything I needed to know.
Hope your doing well
Compression fittings are still in use and sold in auto stores. I've used them many times over the yrs and never had one come apart. I agree the double flare is better, but under the car is harder to maneuver. Thanks for sharing .
Came to learn and I did THANK you Disc brakes, ABS, all good reasons not to use compression. They have higher pressures.
Thank you for explaining steps by steps on how to do a brake lines union ,And recommended a unio instead a compression fitting for high psi on the lines
Great video. Exactly what I needed to see!
Thanks! Glad it worked it out!
Great video. Replacing the entire brake line is not always that easy in your driveway. Sometimes the splice repair is the only way to go.
I agree make the temporary fix until you can get it somewhere easier to replace the whole line. Having zero brakes especially in a big vehicle makes it impossible to move the vehicle anywhere safely
I tried to flare a 3/16" brake line with my flaring tool. The tool works on copper pipe, but not on steel brake lines. When I tighten it, the flaring tool just pushed the line out without flaring it. I don't have the flaring die. Maybe that's why it didn't work. At least I learned something today.
I'm working on the severally rusted brake lines on my '93 GMC Jimmy. I'm pleased that the new brake lines bend without collapsing.
Thank you. Very good video. Clear. Comprehensive. Easy to follow. Not too wordy.
Made sure you pointed out the pros and cons of the two types of fittings. I wish other's would make videos like yours. 👍
QA
awesome! My brake line went on me tonight less than a week before a major trip. Funny enough, I just had to replace the ABS module a few months ago and I assumed at first that it was the module that went bad again, until I saw a trail of brake fluid in the parking space I backed out of. I probably should just replace all the brake lines, but this is the length of job that will keep me going until then.
An excellent presentation using a non technical approach. Very clear explanation for each step and why the step is necessary..
Overall this was a great video for a emergency situation however l didn't know compression fitting might come off--that part was very helpful to me...thanks
good job teaching the double flare task, after cutting out bad spot. I have a roll of the green teflon coated 3/13 line on the garage wall> I used to have a 2nd 25 ft roll so I must be using it up, here and there. I last fall of 2021 made my 1st successful double flares. The hardest part is clampin' it in the
tool. My first one's I flared used to always slip. then i would have to cut off the undeveloped flair and start again. so I would get tight enough by using a cheater to give me more leverage. Maybe it was slipping because I didn't ever remember to use lubricant of some kind.
Wow just save me a headache & gave me an idea, in my case on my Evo x ayc rear diff. metal line, it's better to repaired this way. Going try this and fix the pin hole leak. Thanks for the video
Very informative thank you! I replaced the steel brake lines in my Silverado with the more flexible nickel copper lines, came in a kit so no flaring, but one of the lines got a hole cooked into it from the exhaust manifold(my dumb error) so now I need to cut out the bad section and perform the same procedure you did in the video. I appreciate the level of detail you took.
Muito bem explicado! Excelente aula do que realmente é necessário fazer e o que não se pode fazer. Parabéns
perfect explanation, introduction , demonstration just keep going pal!
Excellant Video,,,I've done many Break jobs just to many to count,,,I think you can use any thing that works,,,If you take your time with patience you don't need to worry about safety.
Excellent video I have learned a lot from this and will try this my self now. Thank you so much.
I've long since gone to ni-cop brake lines. Easy to work with and corrosion resistant. Not expensive. Also, if your metal lines are in bad shape you'd better consider replacing the front/rear flex lines.
excellent explanation of the topic at hand, including last but not least the critical distinctions between the two couplers... thank you for explaining these things and posting this video
Great video. Very simple to follow, and great tip with using the ATF.
One bone to pick: PLEASE consider wearing gloves when you use brake cleaner. A major component of brake cleaner is Tetrachloroethylene (PCE) which is an extremely carcinogenic substance. It's most common route of exposure is through inhalation, but it is also extremely harmful through direct contact with the liquid form, i.e. when it contacts your skin. If it contacts your skin, you should make haste to wash your hands off thoroughly and immediately. That said, it's best to wear a pair of nitrile or latex gloves when using brake cleaner. Believe me, I get my hands filthy with grease, oil, brake dust, and rust when I work on my cars, but I do NOT mess around when using brake cleaner. I'll admit that its a very effective cleaner though!
It is some nasty stuff. I use it all the time and am careful avoiding the fumes and contact with skin.
Outstanding video, thanks for taking the time to show us how its done
very good demo of making brake line joins, thank you.
Wow One the best instructional videos I've Every Seen on You tube! . Excellent!!!!! take a bow.. even answered my question about the compression fittings and why that shouldn't be used for this application!!! Excellent thank you very much!
This is the most excellent video about how to repair brake lines in the right & safe way ,well done thank you very much
Thanks a lot, I needed this video today! Fixed my brakes, I cut off the pin hole area and re-flared the line. It works!
You explained it so well! And you saved me money! back to work:) Thanks!
Best video on this subject on TH-cam.
Nice job, very professional and nice explanation. thank you.
OMG! Great video but if you've pulled the brake line off, then BUY A NEW ONE! $25 IS ALL for a brand NEW ONE! C'mon! You'd be doing it anyway in a year if you've got that much rust on 1 part already. GIVE GOOD, THOROUGH info on the most important part of the car!
That's a great video dude but to late just finished doing my brake lines on my 2006 focus still a great video dude
Very precise explanation and a very helpful video.
Thank you very much.
Nice video in every respect especially when you look at some of the other brake line repair videos by other people. Cheers.
8:45 - does the tool flare steel lines too then and the deburr tool cuts steel too?
This video was spot on. You explained so clear
Thank you
Just bought a car that had a compression fitting that failed. Gonna try a union fitting instead so I can get by before replacing all the lines. Thanks for sharing.
I've looked and studied your video. thank you very much for the information you have provided to some of us who have been in need of this type of information.
Thank you so much for this impressive explanation on fixing brake lines
Best explanation ive seen so far. Nice Job!
A nice explanation of the difference between the acceptable Union coupler and the non-acceptable compression coupler. I find this is so misunderstood, even by some mechanics.
Excellent video. Very clear & concise 👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks
Love your detailed demonstration 👍
Great video , now i understand the double flare. Thanks!
Thankyou very much for your video you made this whole process simple and easy so now I can do what I need to do
Excellent explanation and videography. Thank you.
WOW.. so clear and precise. Finally I'm confident I can do this job. Thank you so much!!!
Sounds good! Thanks!
Gee that looks so simple in your video, all that changes when your try to do this repair under the car in a place you can hardly get to. Very difficult!
Yeah, especially when yer butthole deep in snow. Eastwood tool makes a tool for this "On the vehicle application." Since I live in the rust belt, I think I can justify the cost of this tool.
Agreed, I had to do a lot of sanding around the flare and had to do the double flare a couple times before it would seat. Also noticed some nuts have a couple millimeters of shank at the tip, which in my case prevented it from going deep enough to contact the threads. I had to carefully dremel away the shank as I had already installed the nut and flared the line. Very easy to slip and cut the line, had I known I would have sanded off the shank on the sander before installing the nut and flaring the line. I got it done though and so far no leaks!
@David Schwartz SO WHAT! He is showing the process. Seems obvious to me that since he is doing his own work he knows all about working in crappy places. Those of us that fix our own know all about it.
@@KStewart-th4sk I doubt if he needs to be defended by you, It was not meant the way to start with anyway.
Ya, That is why many people use the compression fittings, I have used them for many years and never had one leak or fail
Double flaring unions is the way to go most of the time, but sometimes you can also use compression fittings when you have to! While brass fittings are designed for low P water pipes, approved steel or SS fittings are available for high pressure hydraulics and liquified gas, withstanding up to 5000 psia. When you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and need to get back on track, a fancy double flaring tool on a workbench is rarely an option! And the truth is, even brass fittings usually outlast the vehicles when done properly... Finally, even if it does fail, there's no big deal! Nobody gets killed when a fitting or break line fails. Brake systems are designed to maintain braking force after a malfunction occurs... for a limited time, obviously, but enough to survive...
Good job explaining the subject
Compression fittings on brake lines are actually not legal in some parts of the world.
Nice job! I definitely appreciate your interesting and informative video. Thank you sir!
excellent video. Very clear explanation and lighting for visual repair work on line.
thankyou that anwsered the question i had about the different connectors i know which ones ill be buying now
thanks again pal
I’ll give you thumbs up 👍🏼 every second of your video!!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!
Why wouldn't you use brake fluid for lub instead of atf?
It's SUPER EASY to do that off the car!!! I've done a ton of brk line jobs, I found it easiest to replaxe from connection to connection!
Big deal. He is merely showing how to use a double flaring kit. No need to lose it over a video that many others like.
Excellent video showing the difference between the brake union and the compression fitting. Years ago my Dad showed me how to use a compression fitting to repair a brake line and it did hold up. But I know better now and would never do that today.
verry good explanation, and most important you said what is the issue with compression fitting, thanks and keep up good job, you'v got a new subscriber 😉
ordered a willfit master cyclinder @ amazon for 5130 case tractor. looked same, when installed saw that 2 lines are 12mm brakelines instead of 14mm. waiting on 12mm ISO bubbleflare fittings listed for1/4 in tubing. they list 3/16 tube fittings also. dont see how 12mm fitting will have enough size for 1/4 tubing wh.ich usually fits 14mm fittings??????? we will see.
Nice job. Very concise and informative. Thank you 👍
Very well explained. Thank you.
Stellar video.Very good explanations, thank you so much.
Excellent video! Very well explained!
Great video. U show and explain very clearly. Thanks.
I do like the looks of the brake line union better than the compression fitting.
I don't feel like you did a good job explaining the compression fitting though. When you tighten it down it actually compresses the brake line and then is smaller than the brake line is on either side and can't really come off without breaking something (if it is tightened down properly) we use them on our machines at work all the time on our grease systems which are rated for 3500 psi.
Very helpful and good explanation
Watching other videos was like Republicans trying to watch Democratic ballot counters -- from outside the building! Your video was well photographed, detailed, well narrated, braking down a complicated process into simple step-by-step instructions. I'm ready to try this. Great job! Thank you so much!
Good video, unfortunately brake lines usually rust from the inside out due to moisture in the hyrdrolic fluid. You could fix this and then another spot can brake. I learned my lesson on that, and if the car is old enough to have rusted out one part of the line, others aren't far behind. I would just order all new pre-bent lines. Was $160 worth of good insurance, and also all the rubber lines got replaced while I was at it. But if u need a quick and easy temporary fix to get down the road then this is a great method.
clayton you must live where there is no snow and ice, the number one reason for corrosion is calcium chloride and salt they use to put on the roads. one little prock in a wiring harness and the calcium chloride will tavel several feet in the inernal part of the wire and rot it out. it will for metal as well that is exposed to the elements that is usually what gets the brake lines from the spray of the wheels onto the line in fender well
Excellent video. Really good info and detailed.
Also worth considering, for short runs, is AGS Poly Armour Metal Tubing. Available in lengths from 8" to 84". Preflared on both ends, with mounting nuts attached. Coated to prevent rust and bends easily by hand. Available on online and behind the counter at AutoZone.
Chuck's Stuff how much is this brake tube at autozone
Go to AutoZone website and search "Poly Armour". Click on any of the 6 results and you'll get 67 results. Also available at Advance Auto Parts. Not all AutoZone & Advanced stores keep all sizes stocked.
Tape non-stretching string/twine along the entire length of the segment to be replaced, from nut to nut, and mark the end. Then remove the string and measure its length. Select the nearest available length of Poly Armour. Cut, to the same length, 12-14 ga insulated solid copper wire and practice bending it until you get an acceptable shape from one connection to the other. Bend the new tubing to this same shape. Use nipping pliers to cut bad tubing at nuts, then use quality 6-sided socket to remove old nuts. Apply Teflon tape to bleed screw treads and use Mity-Vac (or equivalent) to bleed brakes.
Short lengths already flaired with nuts are about $6, +/- depending on the length. A 25' spool of the stuff with no flairs on it yet and no nuts included is about $23, price subject to change since steel is a commodity item.
Yeah it makes no sense to me to take the whole line off then put this patch on it, then put old rusty line back on the vehicle where it's just going to fail again a lot sooner.
I will never do lines again without the whole line prebent kit. And Stabilitrak has double rear lines. Both ends are a different size fitting. I used the old fittings with copper lines worked ok.
24ft copper cut to 12ft each.
On the the ABS module the Upper right is the right rear wheel.
Well explained and made video. Thank you.
Do I need to bleed the break lines after replace a small section of break lines ?