2012 F250 key in ignition ground problems, I found a code B1OF1, and it came up key in ignition problem, when you move the key it turns the interior lights off.
Thank you so much! I live in Europe and own a 2012 F250. As regular ford dealerships don't know s..t of the USA models we're depending on local USA car-importer/dealers who know how to fill their wallets. Just today i had my lock stuck and thanks to you can solve the problem myself. Thumbs up for your clear instructions.
i had this same problem but it wasn't the key switch it was the Ignition Switch behind it, the key switch is only moving the ignition switch up and down causing the problem, it will also cause the truck NOT to start at times and cause it to SHUTOFF also at anytime
Thanks for the video had same problem and the lock smith place had the switch and told me no way it could be the switch I got it anyway and it fixed it thanks so much
Thanks for the help, I have a turning signal and braking light problem with my f150 2012 truck. wonder if you have information, I changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, and can't find the problem.
Lolua Leomiti, check for power to the fuses, if you have power to the fuses, then it’s a ground problem, if you have no power going to the fuses, you have a body control module problem.
Antonio Serna Figueroa, not sure, are you asking me if that fault code causes the engine not to start? If you are yes it can in some situations, ours would start and intermittently die. What happening is the computer can’t see the reference signal coming from that key and causes it to shut down.
i had the new ignition tumblers changed by a locksmith to fit the old key and now I can't get the cylinder to go back in all the way. it hangs up about a1/4 from flush. I have it lined up perfectly. I put this same cylinder in before I had the locksmith change it and it went right in. It is the right one. What could be hanging it up?
Try to get a pair if visa grips and lock them on the key, then turn the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key, other than that, the only other thing is to drill it out without messing up the cylinder. You might try to google how to remove cylinder if key won’t turn maybe someone out has dealt with that before, maybe someone has a trick to it, I just used a drill and a screw driver and was very careful.
Great video, question for you, I have 2008 f350 that has a pats issue due to it set for 8 months and the battery went bad. My obd port is not working and check my connections at the battery, fuses are good. My original key was damage and I use the spare key to try starting the truck and will not start, pats light blinks. Also realized spare key don’t work in the doors and I recall the original working in the doors working. Is it a possibly that the spare key can be faulty causing pats issue. Non chip key.
Great video man! I am having an issue with my 2010 F250. Sometimes even while the key is removed from the ignition, the dash warning lights come on as if the key was in the 2 position. When I go to try and start the car, nothing happens, not even a click. I unplugged my battery so it doesn’t drain out. Do you think replacing the ignition switch like you did will help? Thanks
Tofeeq A it sounds just like the problem we were having, we had to get a new key and tumbler and you have to take the ignition switch out and take it to a ford dealer and have them build a new one... what happens is the key looses signal with the bcm (body control module) there for it doesn’t see the key being in there, I would say to be safe just replace the ignition switch and the keys switch... but you can just try the new key first... then worst case you will have to replace the ignition itself. but start with the key once you have new key from Ford put new switch in and unhook the battery for 10 minutes or so, unless you have a code scanner you can delete the old codes. Let me know if you have any problems or questions.
Tofeeq A it sounds just like the problem we were having, we had to get a new key and tumbler and you have to take the ignition switch out and take it to a ford dealer and have them build a new one... what happens is the key looses signal with the bcm (body control module) there for it doesn’t see the key being in there, I would say to be safe just replace the ignition switch and the keys switch... but you can just try the new key first... then worst case you will have to replace the ignition itself. but start with the key once you have new key from Ford put new switch in and unhook the battery for 10 minutes or so, unless you have a code scanner you can delete the old codes. Let me know if you have any problems or questions.
Advanced Back Yard Mechanic Some how even while the key is removed the warning lights on the dash stay on. And they cause the battery to drain. I’ll try by getting the ignition switch replaced and getting new keys. I hope its not too much money. I still have other things to do to the truck lol.
Tofeeq A I don’t think the lock and cylinder was to bad, but I do believe the dealership charged us to make a new tumbler and key. That was awhile ago, I think the new tumbler was $80-$100, and $25-$50 to make the new tumbler with your key. I am in Ohio so that could be less where you are..
I have the same problem...going down the highway and truck shut off..what I did was pute truck in neutral. Wiggled the keys and started right back on and ran to this day.When got home noticed the key was very loose causing the lights to go off and on.picking up a new tumbler in am.Do you have to disconnect the battery prior to install.
What does the code show up as? Mines warn out on the escape and randomly I can’t get the engine to turn over it’s a real pain in the ass because it always happens at the worst times when I need to get somewhere. I don’t know if I should just replace the ignition switch or the entire ignition housing. Sometimes pushing the key in harder will get it to work and other times I’ll try starting it 30 times and nothing works but when I let it sit for 30 minutes or so and go back to it it’ll fire up first time usually right away.
The code will start with a “B” as it is related to the body control module something like a B10F1 which is a short circuit to ground or open, or a B1352 key in circuit failure, most likely it will be something related to these, could vary. But this is going to be the issue, in your case it sounds like you need the new key switch with tumbler and the dealer needs to make the switch, meaning they will need your key to build your new switch with the new tumblers it comes with, and they will need the old switch to make up the correct tumblers that it has for the new one, let me know if you have any questions.
I have a problem with a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6 4cyl and getting a code B10F1-13 .What could it be ? I know the B stands for body module but what about the rest of the letters and numbers.Thank You sir for all your help.
sorry about the long response time my account got hacked and I just got it back… that is an open circuit to the key, meaning the key isn’t communicating with the BCM.
What is causing it not to turn, is the steering wheel locked? Or is the ignition just broke? If ignition is broke I would try to wiggle the steering wheel just in see the steering lock is holding it and at the same time turn the key with a pair of pliers to give you a better grip. Let me know if that helps.
@@genelalone696 what happens is the key has a resistance depending on what number it was assigned I think it’s like 1-15 or something like that, anyway if that gets worn out over time and stops making good connections within the key lock cylinder, then the computer thinks the car has been stolen and doesn’t allow it to start, so the problem your having is probably in the key lock cylinder being bad, therefore it cannot communicate with the computer to tell the computer the correct key is in the ignition or that the car isn’t stolen, that part on your vehicle is bad or the key itself has gone bad, you would need to get a new ignition lock and tumbler set from the dealer, they will have to build it from the old one you have in the vehicle now. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
@@advancedbackyardmechanic Can I remove the ignition and use a screwdriver ? As long as I don’t leave the fob in it it can’t be stolen ? Truck is rusted pretty good but has a v plow that the stickers aren’t wore off lol I got it for 1000$
@@genelalone696 no the computer can’t see the key, it has to see the correct resistance to see the key, I have in the past built a pass that had that exact resistance to tell the computer the key is in, but it took some figuring, and buying resistors. I would just get a new key, or go to a junk yard and get the key, switch, body control module and possibly computer from another vehicle, that would work, but cheaper and easier to just get a new lock and key from dealer
I have a 2004 Ford F-150 it's a four-door crew cab lost the keys if I buy a new key switch and put the new key switch in it will the vehicle start or do I have to have it program
Josh T, the dealer will be the cheapest, they only charge me $100. You might try a local garage...you might be better off to go to the dealer and just get a new key made.. Just take the vin number and tell them you lost your key and need a new key, you might have to verify ownership... you are going to need a key to turn the ignition on just to get the old one out anyway.... So the best option is to just have them make you one... Don’t forget the vin number and owner verification..
Try to use a pair of plier to get it to turn while wiggling the steering wheel, I would do that to remove the tumbler not to continue to use the switch, I would for sure replace that one
I'm working on a 2012 f250 with the same code but it will shut power down to the cluster and won't let it shift out of park. If I wiggle the key I see the key in ignition fault flash to show a key in ignition but still no power to anything. It takes about 30 minutes for it to work again.
Josh Graves replace the ignition switch and key. You will have to get a key and tumbler and the dealer will have to make the lock and tumbler assembly. That’s we had to do. Clear the codes and you should be good.
@@advancedbackyardmechanic thanks for the reply. I just temporarily tightened the space between tumbler and the switch using an o ring and now that code is gone and the key is showing to be in the ignition. Now I guess I was wrong about ther cluster not getting power. Looks like it's not registering a gear and I got a code for a range sensor. If I wiggle the shifter the park light will flicker and it'll start. Fo you know if the range sensor is in ther collumn? The older trucks had them on the side where the lever is but I don't see it.
Josh Graves you might have multiple problems, Is the steering wheel tilt part loose, if so take apart the steering wheel, to remove the airbag disconnect the negative battery let it sit for a couple minutes before disconnecting the airbag wire, then remove it, look for the 4 small screws that hold tighten the steering wheel tilt. Tighten them all 4 of them, I think there T15-T-20 , I think that might be part of your problem. Go from there, if that’s loose it’s making good contact. If it’s not loose let me know and I would check for bad ground, also check the plug that runs down the steering column to the ignition switch, check it for a loose connection.
If I fool with the cable adjustment underneath tad it will start. I just got it to pull an active p1705 . Trans range not indicating park during self test
Define trouble, it won’t turn over at all, it cranks over good but won’t start, it starts but dies immediately, what exactly do you mean by trouble... I can give you direction to go in if you can explain in skittle more detail..
Thank you so much! I live in Europe and own a 2012 F250. As regular ford dealerships don't know s..t of the USA models we're depending on local USA car-importer/dealers who know how to fill their wallets. Just today i had my lock stuck and thanks to you can solve the problem myself. Thumbs up for your clear instructions.
Your welcome, glad we could help you. Have a great new year.
Thank you so glad for videos like this you save alot of people money and headaches
thanks glad I was able to help you
i had this same problem but it wasn't the key switch it was the Ignition Switch behind it, the key switch is only moving the ignition switch up and down causing the problem, it will also cause the truck NOT to start at times and cause it to SHUTOFF also at anytime
Thanks for the video had same problem and the lock smith place had the switch and told me no way it could be the switch I got it anyway and it fixed it thanks so much
Glad I could help
Thanks for the help, I have a turning signal and braking light problem with my f150 2012 truck. wonder if you have information, I changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, and can't find the problem.
Lolua Leomiti, check for power to the fuses, if you have power to the fuses, then it’s a ground problem, if you have no power going to the fuses, you have a body control module problem.
hello friend this fault code causes the car not to start the engine
Antonio Serna Figueroa, not sure, are you asking me if that fault code causes the engine not to start? If you are yes it can in some situations, ours would start and intermittently die. What happening is the computer can’t see the reference signal coming from that key and causes it to shut down.
thank you very much for your answer so quick friend you have an excellent day
Had the same issue, it’s a relay behind the radio..easy fix
i had the new ignition tumblers changed by a locksmith to fit the old key and now I can't get the cylinder to go back in all the way. it hangs up about a1/4 from flush. I have it lined up perfectly. I put this same cylinder in before I had the locksmith change it and it went right in. It is the right one. What could be hanging it up?
julala03 I would say one of the tumbles need filed down just a little bit.
julala03 tumblers. Not tumbles
Check to see if there is anything in the sleeve of the cylinder or the steering column.
Is there a way to do that when the key wont turn at all? Mine is stuck and wo t turn forward enough to push the button
Try to get a pair if visa grips and lock them on the key, then turn the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key, other than that, the only other thing is to drill it out without messing up the cylinder. You might try to google how to remove cylinder if key won’t turn maybe someone out has dealt with that before, maybe someone has a trick to it, I just used a drill and a screw driver and was very careful.
Great video, question for you, I have 2008 f350 that has a pats issue due to it set for 8 months and the battery went bad. My obd port is not working and check my connections at the battery, fuses are good. My original key was damage and I use the spare key to try starting the truck and will not start, pats light blinks. Also realized spare key don’t work in the doors and I recall the original working in the doors working. Is it a possibly that the spare key can be faulty causing pats issue. Non chip key.
sorry about taking so long to answer my account got hacked and I just got it back… I would take the title to the dealer and get a new key programmed.
Great video man! I am having an issue with my 2010 F250. Sometimes even while the key is removed from the ignition, the dash warning lights come on as if the key was in the 2 position. When I go to try and start the car, nothing happens, not even a click. I unplugged my battery so it doesn’t drain out. Do you think replacing the ignition switch like you did will help? Thanks
Tofeeq A it sounds just like the problem we were having, we had to get a new key and tumbler and you have to take the ignition switch out and take it to a ford dealer and have them build a new one... what happens is the key looses signal with the bcm (body control module) there for it doesn’t see the key being in there, I would say to be safe just replace the ignition switch and the keys switch... but you can just try the new key first... then worst case you will have to replace the ignition itself. but start with the key once you have new key from Ford put new switch in and unhook the battery for 10 minutes or so, unless you have a code scanner you can delete the old codes.
Let me know if you have any problems or questions.
Tofeeq A it sounds just like the problem we were having, we had to get a new key and tumbler and you have to take the ignition switch out and take it to a ford dealer and have them build a new one... what happens is the key looses signal with the bcm (body control module) there for it doesn’t see the key being in there, I would say to be safe just replace the ignition switch and the keys switch... but you can just try the new key first... then worst case you will have to replace the ignition itself. but start with the key once you have new key from Ford put new switch in and unhook the battery for 10 minutes or so, unless you have a code scanner you can delete the old codes.
Let me know if you have any problems or questions.
Advanced Back Yard Mechanic Some how even while the key is removed the warning lights on the dash stay on. And they cause the battery to drain. I’ll try by getting the ignition switch replaced and getting new keys. I hope its not too much money. I still have other things to do to the truck lol.
Tofeeq A I don’t think the lock and cylinder was to bad, but I do believe the dealership charged us to make a new tumbler and key. That was awhile ago, I think the new tumbler was $80-$100, and $25-$50 to make the new tumbler with your key. I am in Ohio so that could be less where you are..
Advanced Back Yard Mechanic I switched out the electrical portion of the ignition switch and so far its good. Thank you for your help.
Thank you very much
I have the same problem...going down the highway and truck shut off..what I did was pute truck in neutral. Wiggled the keys and started right back on and ran to this day.When got home noticed the key was very loose causing the lights to go off and on.picking up a new tumbler in am.Do you have to disconnect the battery prior to install.
no not necessary.
What does the code show up as? Mines warn out on the escape and randomly I can’t get the engine to turn over it’s a real pain in the ass because it always happens at the worst times when I need to get somewhere. I don’t know if I should just replace the ignition switch or the entire ignition housing. Sometimes pushing the key in harder will get it to work and other times I’ll try starting it 30 times and nothing works but when I let it sit for 30 minutes or so and go back to it it’ll fire up first time usually right away.
The code will start with a “B” as it is related to the body control module something like a B10F1 which is a short circuit to ground or open, or a B1352 key in circuit failure, most likely it will be something related to these, could vary. But this is going to be the issue, in your case it sounds like you need the new key switch with tumbler and the dealer needs to make the switch, meaning they will need your key to build your new switch with the new tumblers it comes with, and they will need the old switch to make up the correct tumblers that it has for the new one, let me know if you have any questions.
I have a problem with a 2014 Ford Escape 1.6 4cyl and getting a code B10F1-13 .What could it be ? I know the B stands for body module but what about the rest of the letters and numbers.Thank You sir for all your help.
sorry about the long response time my account got hacked and I just got it back… that is an open circuit to the key, meaning the key isn’t communicating with the BCM.
What to do if key won't turn at all
What is causing it not to turn, is the steering wheel locked? Or is the ignition just broke? If ignition is broke I would try to wiggle the steering wheel just in see the steering lock is holding it and at the same time turn the key with a pair of pliers to give you a better grip. Let me know if that helps.
Wiggle , jiggle Used a older key without the fob and gave it a smack nothing !battery is charged , lights come on doors lock and unlock !
@@genelalone696 what happens is the key has a resistance depending on what number it was assigned I think it’s like 1-15 or something like that, anyway if that gets worn out over time and stops making good connections within the key lock cylinder, then the computer thinks the car has been stolen and doesn’t allow it to start, so the problem your having is probably in the key lock cylinder being bad, therefore it cannot communicate with the computer to tell the computer the correct key is in the ignition or that the car isn’t stolen, that part on your vehicle is bad or the key itself has gone bad, you would need to get a new ignition lock and tumbler set from the dealer, they will have to build it from the old one you have in the vehicle now. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
@@advancedbackyardmechanic Can I remove the ignition and use a screwdriver ? As long as I don’t leave the fob in it it can’t be stolen ? Truck is rusted pretty good but has a v plow that the stickers aren’t wore off lol I got it for 1000$
@@genelalone696 no the computer can’t see the key, it has to see the correct resistance to see the key, I have in the past built a pass that had that exact resistance to tell the computer the key is in, but it took some figuring, and buying resistors. I would just get a new key, or go to a junk yard and get the key, switch, body control module and possibly computer from another vehicle, that would work, but cheaper and easier to just get a new lock and key from dealer
Does the same key's keep working after you change the ignition switch
Yes, because that is the key you are suppose to use when you have the new ignition lock rekeyed. The only way it wouldn’t work is if the chip is bad.
I have a 2004 Ford F-150 it's a four-door crew cab lost the keys if I buy a new key switch and put the new key switch in it will the vehicle start or do I have to have it program
Josh T, most likely will need reprogrammed...
If I buy a new key switch with key what's the easiest and cheapest way to have it programed without going to a dealer
Josh T, the dealer will be the cheapest, they only charge me $100. You might try a local garage...you might be better off to go to the dealer and just get a new key made.. Just take the vin number and tell them you lost your key and need a new key, you might have to verify ownership... you are going to need a key to turn the ignition on just to get the old one out anyway.... So the best option is to just have them make you one... Don’t forget the vin number and owner verification..
Thank you...
My key It’s not want to turn my Tumblr any suggestions
Try to use a pair of plier to get it to turn while wiggling the steering wheel, I would do that to remove the tumbler not to continue to use the switch, I would for sure replace that one
I'm working on a 2012 f250 with the same code but it will shut power down to the cluster and won't let it shift out of park. If I wiggle the key I see the key in ignition fault flash to show a key in ignition but still no power to anything. It takes about 30 minutes for it to work again.
Josh Graves replace the ignition switch and key. You will have to get a key and tumbler and the dealer will have to make the lock and tumbler assembly. That’s we had to do. Clear the codes and you should be good.
@@advancedbackyardmechanic thanks for the reply. I just temporarily tightened the space between tumbler and the switch using an o ring and now that code is gone and the key is showing to be in the ignition. Now I guess I was wrong about ther cluster not getting power. Looks like it's not registering a gear and I got a code for a range sensor. If I wiggle the shifter the park light will flicker and it'll start. Fo you know if the range sensor is in ther collumn? The older trucks had them on the side where the lever is but I don't see it.
Josh Graves you might have multiple problems, Is the steering wheel tilt part loose, if so take apart the steering wheel, to remove the airbag disconnect the negative battery let it sit for a couple minutes before disconnecting the airbag wire, then remove it, look for the 4 small screws that hold tighten the steering wheel tilt. Tighten them all 4 of them, I think there T15-T-20 , I think that might be part of your problem. Go from there, if that’s loose it’s making good contact. If it’s not loose let me know and I would check for bad ground, also check the plug that runs down the steering column to the ignition switch, check it for a loose connection.
If I fool with the cable adjustment underneath tad it will start. I just got it to pull an active p1705 . Trans range not indicating park during self test
Josh Graves something is definitely not making a good connection. Check all the plug connections and make sure you don’t have any loose grounds.
i have trouble starting my f350
Define trouble, it won’t turn over at all, it cranks over good but won’t start, it starts but dies immediately, what exactly do you mean by trouble... I can give you direction to go in if you can explain in skittle more detail..
Daniel Denbow SEO I could explain it easier with a video that I took
Eduardo Ovidio you can email me at advancedbackyardmechanic@gmail.com
That's the cylinder not the switch
Correct, that is the most common problem with these trucks, the key looses connection with the body control module.