2013 F150 no crank, how to bypass fix a bad PCM
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video , I show how to be able to get the starter to activate when the pcm has failed in the starter solenoid control circuit. Keep in mind this is only for the starter solenoid circuit and with the complete pats system working properly and in sync. This is not to be used as a repair or final fix, doing so could pose a potential safety risk.
Thank you. Same problem with my 2011 f150 5.0. You saved me a lot of time.
I had the same problem in my 2013 gt. The problem was with the power on lead 86, the green and white. There is a split that is between PCM and the relay terminal it's spliced into another green and white that comes from the micro controller on the BCM SJB on the inside. The connector on the splice corroded.
Check plugs under right kick panel for loose plugs! Passenger side!
Thank You. I was just going in circles. Thought it was my key, again. When I bought the truck, the admin key was gone.
Could even be the fob battery. If you are skeptical, take the key out of the fob, put it in some vice grips and attempt to start your truck. Take care.
i got starter to crank, but seems like even with key on it wont start. any suggestions
the pcm starter signal relay is missing,,,its gray,,,,top right,,,...must be one of the [roblems
My god, keep to the frickin point.
Don't forget to hit like and subscribe ! 👍
Thanks I've been 2years trying to fix my truck properly what u did makes sense to me I've tried everything. Replaced wiring harnesses and pact system moduals pcm transgender,starter relays I'm going to try same thing wish me luck 2004 sport Trac I will let u know how it comes out
Transgender,!?😂
Had the same problem no crank no start with my 2011 ford f150 3.5. Replaced the ecm fuse on the front, still nothing. Long story short after going through hell and back. Removed the bottom power plug on the pass footwell that goes for the bcm and it reset everything. Not even disconnecting the battery did this function... This worked perfectly and read my key with no problems to start
I'm dealing with this issue right now on a 2008 Ford Expedition and narrowed it down to a pcm issue too. Mine has an intermittent problem, though. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't.
You figured it out?
Brilliant video!! I've got a 2014 F150 6.2ltr.....on an island in the Bahamas, no mechanics. I've wasted days or weeks watch videos, Google, and forums. Can't believe how many way Ford built no start, no crank into their vehicles, broken wires, pcms, corroded relays, etc. It's been sitting for 2 months, no crank, no start, good for noth'in paperweight. From the day I got it the problem was rare and intermittent and would "fix itself" until one day it wouldn't start at all. Dash lights up like normal, good battery, starter, all fuses and relays good. Replaced starter switch behind the key, and immobilizer. No Luck. Will this fix work in my case? I haven't tried yet but.....could I just put a push button on the starter relay you jumped with the key in the "run" position. New PCM?...if so, won't I have a problem with key programming. I'm in a real bind. I'm hoping you'll be kind enough to help me out. A duct tape fix...........anything!
watch your dash! see if it reads Zero KM to empty... This happened to me until i put in gas (though i already had a half tank) and it fired up like nothing happened. When the battery is disconnected too long, the fuel pump makes up its own Zero, until something happens. so for 2 weeks the only thing stopping me was that the truck thought it was out of gas.
Its happening to me. Not sure what it is was told bad pcm. But I get to work by disconnecting and connectinf the battery... try that. Or if you fixed it what did you do?
@@patkauther9584 how does the truck thinking it’s out of gas cause a no crank no start issue?
I’ve ran out of gas plenty of times especially with the current prices of gas and getting a meager 12 mpg. It cranks but definitely won’t start until I put gas in . If I had half a tank of gas it would start.
When you run out of gas, that is a different circumstance. In my case, the computer just thought there was no gas and was trying to tell me that. When there is no info, the pcm can't make decisions. It reads the difference in voltage sent by the pump to determine the gas level. No info = no gas.
I honestly just put in a push button wired straight from the starter lol I couldn’t figure it out, cheap $5 fix
Good evening really can use your help with mine. I have multiple problems electrical. This car get water in the bcm and think is a wiring harness problem. After change my bcm now had 2 codes, it starts and shut off right away. Fuel pump and Cranck sensor have codes.
maybe it is shutting off due to immobilizer issue from bcm replacement
Grossly over excessive computerization , Completely unnecessary
then don't watch, no one made you
@@DTEAuto You miss understood the message (crayons are out) Current vehicles are grossly over computerized running the starting system (Vehicle Starter) through a computer ( ECM or PCM or BCM or CAN ) is completely unnecessary and senseless Much like your comment
All this time it took you to figure this out.wow.we figured it out and did this to my truck in 15 min.your a mechanic? I'm not.
WOW, thank you so much for going out of your way to sit there and taking the time to type out letting us know how awesome and special you are! Figured this out in 15 seconds. You're great?? I'm not!
don't need customer story or personal info get on with it other than that good job.
ok
@@DTEAutoI appreciate the extra detail and story as it walks through process of elimination.
@@brianparker6294 thank you for the positive criticism
I’ve had same issue for 2 weeks decided to have the locksmith come out and make me a new key and it fired right up apparently the keys can go bad
He deleted all keys and programmed 2 new keys and then kit the key and it fired right up like nothing ever happened
Im running the same issue with Ford Explorer ....no codes, but I won't crank ... I'm going to try to make a jump circuit
Had the same problem with my 2006 F-150. Tried to fix it by replacing the ignition cylinder, ignition switch and starter. Jumpered the starter relay and it started right up.
how did you wire it up?
the blue and white wire where did you tape it in to
Check out this video where he finds a bad relay in the PCM th-cam.com/video/sEThPhO6MxY/w-d-xo.html
My grandpas truck did this same thing but then after I let it sit for a couple hours while while we were at church, I put the key back in it and tried to start and now I have no power to the dash, no I’m at a loss
your smart.
Hi D-tech. Can see you eventually had the changed pcm replaced. What voltage did you eventually get at the control side of the relay after the change, same 2.5v?
I unfortunately did get a chance to recheck the voltage level
I'm not even getting the 2.5 volts to that control side
Dude you did good going through the trouble shooting and going through your thought process. I am having this issue almost exactly and went through everything before I seen your video and and I’m honing twords the pcm bcm , no blown fuse in bcm but the starter relay ain’t clicking, if I jump the relay it cranks but doesn’t engage??? I gonna try to weed out ignition switch but probably bcm pcm don’t know for sure, but that relay should click, from what you said the coil on the relay should be actuating , you do good with talking out loud go through your process a lot of people can get a lot from your process good job
I am currently having the same issue I can start from relay but not the key. When I tried wiring it like this it popped #16 fuse in the cab the ignition feed fuse, so apparently I have something else going on
Any chance this is like the 2006 south main auto guy's issue with the PCM relay? issues seem similar... obviously I know you don't have the truck any more more, just posting for other options that may be a more permanent fix. th-cam.com/video/sEThPhO6MxY/w-d-xo.html
Does that bundle of wires also include the alternator wires?
I don't think it does
Jesus I’m stuck tell me already!
fast forward
ASTUTE DTech Engineering Sadel
👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21:07pm Good Evening
Going thru same problems with no crank also lights and door locks wipers radio intermiten operation by itself no switc he's operated first replaced starter. Then gem module Then I have2.5 volts from alternater.then wipers . Interior lights rDio not working after I changed alt. Battery light in dash go back advance auto where got all they tested said only getting 115 volts from new alt guy I bought the truck from told me it was Haughton after 3 months ownership tforgot the starter after ctanking tries to engage flywheel I been taking off signal wire off sillanorde after it cranks tired and broke from this ford
I have that situation with my truck now. Is it possible that you could walk me through it?
I had a car locksmith come and he made keys my original is dead. He also said he disengaged the system yet it still no crank no start. My neighbor used his gadget to bypass and it cranked but did not start so I will try to bypass the pcm as you demonstrated. I have a f150 2014. it is costing me a lot of money. the tow was 400.00, keys 200.00, they said the part under the spare tire..a new battery...ugh!
Same problem 2013 F150.
Exact same micro voltage at the power distribution box starter relay.
Removed connectors at the pcm.
Cleaned the connectors with electronic cleaner.
Plugged the connectors back in.
The truck started right up.
Also removed the "check advanced trac" warning.
Conclusion: Corrosion between the connectors and pins, of the pcm.
Battery must’ve been replaced rest truck it’ll be fine same happened with my moms truck being a new model for when battery goes bad you can’t just swap it out yes crazy new ford product. I have a 4.6 F150 has fuel air and spark I replace the crankshaft sensor, both of them bank, one and two she only starts when it’s cold, but when it’s hot, she won’t turn over and driving on the highway hot temperature it she will just cut off right away and won’t start can u help ?
I don’t know much about this, but sounds like an issue I was just reading about …. Fuse 27. It needs to be rewired to a bigger fuse. Evidently common in 2009-2014 models. It’s prevalent enough that Ford has an OEM fix kit.
This is what happens when you hire the CEO that makes perfectly good planes fall out of the sky.
Come on man get to the point Jesus Christ
You need Jesus in your life
He was wrong the problem is his electronic ignition switch. Not pcm, it's a switched ground signal from the pcm. I've done so many of these. Check ignition switch if correct output then neutral safety. Kinda sad he cut the harness like that. Could of used jumpers to test pcm plug. Never cut harness, will forever look like someone has done something ghetto. The original bcm was not the problem, he needs all data or michael1 ect.. so you can understand the circuits, follow the oem testing procedures. Learn to use a oscilloscope would have pin pointed pretty quick with the write references. Not talking crap I've been exactly where you where b4 and I learned having the correct tools and resources save time and money.
Unfortunately it’s not always the ignition switch…swapped one three different times with different brands just to receive the same result. Truck was doing the exact same thing this one was…
May I add my 2 cents I agree with not cutting those 3 wires to the PCM harness I believe if he looked up TSB’s he would have found the problem fuse 27 reroute kit (the ground is supplied by the PCM SWITCHED) CHEERS need a wiring diagram
Did you see the ACM failure, if you check the diagram of starting system, the ACM is in there, my ford also have this problem, I believe the problem is the ACM, my problem started with it turning off and on the stereo anytime by its own.
Sorry, that was in reference to a different 2013 no crank issue of yours. I haven't seen this video so I won't comment on what's going on here
Check your key switch it sounds like your key switch. Is not make power to the relay that starts your truck. Sean this a lot over the years
Wassup brother it’s me again! 🥴😂 Thanks for another great video and I can’t lie sometimes I wanna speed up and go through the videos (so that I can get up and go to work) but the information you give is so valuable at any given point in the video that it makes it hard to do so! 😂 All good tho and always thanks for helping us less informed guys out with some of these very difficult issues!
Yep, I feel the same about others I watch too, hate to skip and miss important information.
@@DTEAuto @ which one its power? The yellow or the white/ green???
Thanks, having a similar problem and just started diagnostics. You are incredibly awesome sharing stuff like this.
Can you explain me wich wire you bypass at the pcm colors please
I believe it was the starter relay ground control
I had no crank no start with full power. Ended up being starter. Used screwdriver to jump starter and replaced starter. Also make sure your batter terminals are clean and seated well.
Got the same problem on a 2011 f250 but mine would not start even if I bypass it
Call a automotive locksmith , your key isn’t programmed
Geesh terrible delivery
says who
You young guys spend way too much time looking for trouble codes. My 9009 F150 had the same problem. It would not crank and start so this was obviously a starter problem, Rather than waste time hooking up a scan tool I got under the truck and hooked up a remote starter button to the battery and solenoid studs on the solenoid. With the key on the engine cranked and started right up. So now I knew that I had 12 volts to the battery and the starter and solenoid were good. That took 10 minutes. The key still had no effect on the starter but the dash display still came on. The first thing between the battery and the start circuit is a fuse and relay. I checked the fuse and verified that it was good so I swapped another relay in place of the old one and wah-la the truck started right up and the truck was fixed. This took 15 minutes most of which was spent looking up which relay and fuse are for the start circuit. I spent a total of about half an hour and if I was a mechanic and knew where my tools were it would have taken less time. I confess I plan house the scan tool to read and reset trouble codes but I could not immediately locate it and decided it would make an easy diagnosis a lot harder so I quit looking and just did it the same way I did it 60 years ago as a teen hot rodder.
Well relay is good, I just can't get power to the fuse
Damn you got the 9009 model already? It prob flies itself everywhere huh?
Lol scan took takes 30 seconds. And your not wasting time hoping the diagnosis your doing is right. But your problem may be that the scan doesn't work for the 9009 model yet
Can you do this bypass if abs module is not sending canbus signal
I don't believe so
Im having a very similar problem from time to time and still have yet tom figure it out. Took it to dealer and they slap in a new battery and say it runs great! even though I'm on my third battery with this issue. seems to happen every 6 months where it won't start or crank, but sometimes if I walk away and come back an hour later it will start right up and run for roughly 6 more months. Other times I have to charge the battery and it will run for months at a time. is this similar to this truck? or did it just not start once and never start again until it was fixed? At my wits end with it at this point. Anyone else having this problem?
unfortunately it sounds like your situation is different, the one in the video was completely dead no crank due to bad engine computer.
So would a new PCM solve this?? I’m lost . I know you by passed it. I’m having same issues
Yes the problem is a bad pcm, you would need to replace and program it.
My f150 2012 won't to start and show ant theif
I just diagnosed one of these. It turns out to be the immobilizer,as soon as I put it on it started no program needed. The 2.5 v at the fuse box for starter relay was correct, it is ground side switched. Just have to have a good scanner that can read data display.
My Ford f150 keeps Starting system fault. Three times with in the last two weeks. I disconnected the battery for three hours it always started. How can I fix this problem?
@@lindseyjohnson2096 what codes do you have
@@jtsautomotiveandeverything480 I haven't tried to code it yet just troubleshooting from home. The f150 has system fault every Friday for the last three weeks at work. Battery was disconnected over the weekend the first time, 2nd time 8 hrs , third time 11hrs . It maybe the key but idk . I'm in awe lol
@@lindseyjohnson2096 well what kinda scanner do you have
He was wrong the problem is his electronic ignition switch. Not pcm, your right it's a switched ground signal from the pcm. I've done so many of these. Check ignition switch if correct output then neutral safety. Kinda sad he cut the harness like that. Could of used jumpers to test pcm plug. Never cut harness, will forever look like someone has done something ghetto. The original bcm was not the problem, he needs all data or michael1 ect.. so you can understand the circuits, follow the oem testing procedures. Learn to use a oscilloscope would have pin pointed pretty quick with the write references. Not talking crap I've been exactly where you where b4 and I learned having the correct tools and resources save time and money.
i have 2014 ford f 150 3.5 does the same thing but in this case just crank but no start also i have a message on dash starting system fault
Blue with 2 white stripes is the wire you’re looking for not to be confused with the blue with one white stripe. Lol got it!
I did just as you shown but now im getting high voltage to the TPS.
reason I ask is, i just swapped a '13 ecoboost, with a '13 motor from a place in Wisconsin (i cant remember their name).. but the motor had same yellow paint marked numbers, (but in the 19's).. at anyrate.. tried to start and got same thing.. my superchip programmer tells me I need to reset ecm/pcm, as it does not recognize engine position..
if it doesn't crank it won't have anything to do with the program not recognizing engine position, it watches for that during cranking in order to find the cam and crank positions in order to correctly fire up the engine
@@DTEAuto thankyou! yes! this has proven to be true! I was able to reset code and motor fires right up now!! thank you for giving me the motivation to keep trying!
So if i have a u0100 missing communication with ecm would this fix work as a bypass?
no, the computer has to be able to communicate.
@@DTEAuto thanks for the reply. I used a jumper wire on the start/run relay which doesnt have 12v coming i to it, truck starts. Is that relay controlled by the pcm?
My truck will turn over fine but it won't crank up
im getting 2.2volts at starter relay and have same no crank no start
Electrical problems eater getting in gem module causing starter 16:47 engaging while running killing battery e t replace gem controller and stop water coming in
What is that buzzing noise everytime you put it in key on??
if I remember right, its the climate vent actuators
My truck does same thing but when i jumper it, the starter cranks but still no fuel 🤷♂️
There could be a scenario where your FP fuse (20A) terminal is distorted or melted. Ford had a fix a while back to move the fuel pump fuse to another location for this issue, hope this helps.
but how does that permanently fix the problem!?! i mean the regular guy with no knowledge isnt going to know how to do this! so i would have to go in and jumper that relay every time i want to start my vehicle!?! that doesnt fix anything! that was a band aid fix! thats not a good solution really! bypassing the pcm, is probably not a good idea for long term!
You are correct, it's not the correct perminent fix, the true fix is to replace the faulty pcm. This was a testing method proving out that the pcm relay driver was not doing it's job, and by manually grounding and acting like the pcm, it shows how the vehicle will crank. If one were in a jam, this could be done also to get the truck running and moved. This truck was towed into my shop in the middle of a snowstorm and blocking my garage door, I used this to get it crank and running to get it mobile. And this wasn't put out for the regular no knowledge guy fyi
@@DTEAuto My truck (2013 Ford F150) hasn't gone thru this yet but like you said I will be ready for when this happens. It starting to show signs that I may have a bad pcm.
Having same no crank no start,tried this but when I jump it it tries to turn over but doesn't. Any suggestions?
Thank you! I'm about to attempt this on my truck. It's been a headache. Here's to getting back to work 🤞.
Nice.
But still hv that noise in the cab. That part sucks.
Why not put a pcm in it sounds like a cheep dealership
good morning D- TECH IT REALLY HELPFUL TO ME I HAD A LOT PROBLEM LIKE THIS AND ITS HARD TO FIX IT THANK FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE
I'm going to try this
Wait what exactly did you do?
Omg just get to the point
Omg just fast forward
Thank you so much.. Dealer wanted to charge me $600 to check all wiring in the car before telling me how much to fix... I follow everything you did and was able to start my truck back to louisville..
Great to hear you got out of a jam
Next time please get to the main issue
why do I need to conform to what you want when I'm the one putting the time effort and energy into making these videos and trying to thoroughly explain the scenarios. Last time I checked I do believe the ability to skip forward on videos is available in order for you to fish for whatever point in time you want.
@DTEAuto you're right
Can someone tell me exactly witch wires are being used and where to connect them because my truck is doing this exactly
Mines doing the same thing I wish he had some pics of how he has it mine is doing the exact same thing
Hey Donny just wondering if you might have figured it out
@@ROC-pz7hh no sir we ended up selling the truck
@@donnysbackroadoutdoors5088 yea I tried this here and it worked the first 2times and now I can’t get it to do anything so I’m going to have to take it in I was just curious if it had worked for anyone cause I’ve been down going on 2 months now I think this PATS deal ford has on there vehicles is some BS
Good diagnosis! Sometimes is really hard to find a problem when the car has been in other shops! you have to find the problem that other caused and then the real customer's concern. I know the bypass was done knowing that it needs a new pcm and to help them out and done properly measuring all probabilities that could damaged the other circuit! Great job!
what scan tool are you using and where can i purchase it
Autel maxisys elite
@@DTEAuto can you tell exclusive on what wires you hooked your jumper wires to for the truck to start with Key . My truck is doing the very same thing. But I can tell where you hooked the wire's. Thank you please sir.
You had good info about the start relay witch will help me with the same problem on my truck but I am a little confused about the wires going to the relay from the pcm.
Can you go over what you did with the 3 wires?
You cut 2 and tapped into the yellow one.
Where did you tap from?
What did you do with the other wires you cut.
I understand what you are trying to do but I am a little confused on how.
Thanks again for the info.
The Yellow was power feed from the pcm to the starter relay control, the white/green was the relay control ground from relay to pcm. The blue/white was the signal line from the ignition switch to the pcm and bcm which sends a power feed signal whenever the key is switched all the way to the crank position. The relay control wires were cut between pcm and relay, the white/green was put to ground from the relay side (from fuse box) and the yellow from the relay side (from fuse box side) was spliced into the blu/white starter signal line. word of caution , this is just temporary and not the proper way of fixing the issue, due to the fact that the starter will be engaged whenever the key is put in the start position no matter what position the selector lever is in
@@DTEAuto Thanks for the very quick response.
What you did makes sense but with out checking pin wires now I know the colors codes.
I was a Nissan tech years ago. Back in the late 80's. I did the same thing to a 200sx. It took quite a while and parts under warranty before I rewired it. The car was returned to the customer and he never had a problem.
Sometimes you have to think out of the box.
Again thanks. Stay safe,
Greg
@@DTEAuto Thanks for the very quick response.
What you did makes sense but with out checking pin wires now I know the colors codes.
I was a Nissan tech years ago. Back in the late 80's. I did the same thing to a 200sx. It took quite a while and parts under warranty before I rewired it. The car was returned to the customer and he never had a problem.
Sometimes you have to think out of the box.
Again thanks. Stay safe,
Greg
What were the PIN numbers on the pcm for the 3 wires
👍👍
FFS THAT WAS PAINFUL.
just curious, based on the number in yellow paint marker, is that a swapped engine from a place in Wisconsin??
If you got some time to play with- do a little experimentation to make sure you found the problem- this could serve short term.
But Replacing the ECM once properly diagnosed is the correct method of operation.
Which slots did you put the jump wire in?
Jump it straight under the car at the starter solenoid just connect the two contacts
He jumped the 12v positive at the stater relay to the switched side of the same relay to complete the circuit annd start it
@@oscarlandag1831 I can't tell how he hooked up the jumper wires to can you help
just because you can do something, doesnt mean you should!
Man dont take so freaking long to explain something. Could’ve been a 5 to 10 minute long video easy damn put me to sleep bruh. Most of us don’t need such a serious breakdown of every single thing you do when you talk so slow.
Thanks for the positive words, appreciate all you do
@DTEAuto this is what you get when the works revolves around 60 second tik tok videos
OMG you talk so slow, get to the point!!!
OMG Thaaaaaaaaank yoooooooouuuuuuu foooooooor waaaaaaaaaaatchiiiiiiiiiing!!
@@DTEAuto can you put up a diagram of the wires you used . My trucks doing the same thing.
Less talk about irrelevant stuff
no one forced you to watch
Bro come on get to it! Dam
There's this thing called a scroll bar, you can scroll to wherever you please to or simply change the playback speed, in case you incompetently weren't aware.
Where does he have the blue/white wire hooked up to? Pos or negative
Too boring. You should start enthusiastically talking about the problem and SOLUTION right away as a summary, and then go into details. Make it interesting and fun and straight to the point in 2 minutes first before people want to shoot themselves in the head out of boredom
Thank you for literally stopping whatever you were doing to actually go out of your way to sit and negatively comment on a video no one ever forced you to watch in the first place. I'm sorry I fell short of your such high expectations and that I'm such a disappointing creator that warranted such criticism from an amazing perfect youtuber like yourself that has amassed such a great following from doing a perfect job creating content without flaws on their channel, cannot wait to catch all your amazing videos. Sad that you found the most popular video on my channel, thank you for watching and commenting and contributing to my pocket 👌. P.S Boredom can be skipped with a thing called fast-forward.
@@DTEAuto You can post your videos faster already (1.25x or 1.5x) if you speak slowly, but also need to get to the point faster and details later. Just watch @chrisfix and learn
Given you do not even have a channel you have no idea what goes into creating, growing, and maintaining a channel! If you do not like the video then do not watch it, nobody forced you to do so. You also have the ability to scroll through the video and watch only the parts you choose. Given the amount of views this video has it has clearly been of interest to others. Your OPINION does not matter nor does it count for anything in this situation. The fact that you take time out of your life to be or say negative things to a person that you do not even know and on a video that is 2 years old only shows the type of person you are.