Hi, You probably don't have it but the Milwaukee Gen 2 1000 ft lbs (fastening) - 1400 ft lbs (break away) would have been a little easier to take off that Honda bolt. Thanks for the video
@@toolgearbandits7223 Yeah, i don't see a gen 3 soon. I only say that because milwaukee already has the 3/4" high impact and the 1 inch high impact. If you get a chance look at the Offerup app or Craigslist. You might find one at a good deal to just try out. Good luck... Thanks for the video
@@michaelc7283 I'm glad you like the video. I do see the Gen 2 around my area for $160-200 range. Only thing is that I am not really interested in the Gen 2 currently. I am more interested in small impact wrenches in the Compact and Subcompact categories. It's amazing to me how far these little impacts have come. With the power to remove lug nuts and such in such a small package. I use these smaller impact wrenches more so I can justify spending money on them. I hardly ever need to use the high torque models. But thanks for the suggestion and looking out. 👍
@@toolgearbandits7223 I totally agree. I don't use my Milwaukee High Impact Gen 2 that much but when i do it's awsome. I do like the milwaukee impact wrench 2755 and 2754. Also the Stubby. If you look at a video by 94 GT Coupe he converted a DeWalt DCF 887 1/4" impact to a 3/8" impact wrench. I did the same thing to it but then i lost it. It was awsome from the size, handle grip and light. The power was also great. I working on doing it again.
@@michaelc7283 I had a 2754 a while back but I couldn't get that thing to remove lug nuts torque to 130 ft/lbs so I return it. Might have gotten a bad batch. I converted my old brushed Milwaukee impact driver to 3/8" anvil and I still have it. I did the same with the M12 impact driver but it was too weak so I put it back to the way it was. I'm looking now to see if I can convert my Makita 1/2" anvil sub compact impact (the one featured on my earlier videos) wrench to a 3/8" anvil. It is too weak for most 1/2" size socket's bolt and nut.
You need the weighted socket to assist with breaking it free. The mid torque and high torque Ridgid have zero problem with the correct socket on the end.
Just removed my crank bolt on honda hrv with d16 engine today , milwaukee miq torque 2gen with 12.0 battery. Did 15 sec backward run and after that another 10 sec backward was enought to remove it! with 4.0ah battery tool feels as half of power instead of 12.0
I swear this is how my oil guy tightens my oil drain plug. I couldn't even get it open with my high torque 2863-20. Stripped all plug nuts and rounded up well. Had to take it to my oil guy and he used the hammer + screwdriver trick to get it open. Since then I switched to the Fumoto oil drain valve and changed the oil myself.
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
I had the pleasure of removing the crank bolt on a s2000. We had to use a 4ft cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar. When it let loose the pipe almost went through the passenger side fender.
Wrong. No thread locker, just extreme tight. They're torqued to 69Nm with an additional 90 degrees. No thread locker, and anyone that puts thread locker on will regret it.
Excellent vid! Well done that Honda crank bolt is the king of tightness. The High Torque is a necessity for such tasks. I wonder how your average 1/2" air impact would work on that task, probably would not. You have a nice collection of cordless impact wrenches. I was wondering if the Rigid Octane impact was any more powerful than the Milwaukee M18 Mid Torque. I like the size of the Milwaukee Mid Torque, however it was not powerful enough to remove an over torqued axle nut on my Gen 3 Odyssey. I had to use an older Japan made 1/2 " Craftsman air impact to remove it.
Thanks. The Ridgid has about the same power as the Milwaukee but the Milwaukee is a little more compact. I was thinking with the help of the weighted crank bolt socket and the supposedly advancement of battery tech giving it more power (as least that's what they claim) that it will be able to break free the crank bolt. Very unfortunate that it can't.
I have a Milwaukee mid torque. It took off the axle nuts of my gen3 Odyssey easily but won't do anything to the crank bolt even with the Lisle heavy socket like you see in the video. My Husky 1/2 air impact (rated 650lb) busted it in literally 2~3 seconds with the Lisle socket. With that said, I use my Milwaukee for almost everything except for the crank bolt.
@@toolgearbandits7223 I've actually been looking for a video that does exactly what you did, with all the various setups you used. I might be in trouble. I have the mid-torque Milwaukee and figured that with the 8.0 High Output battery and the Lisle socket that I should have no problem getting the crankbolt off. I might have to rethink this approach.
@@slylockfox85 Don't fret it yet. Try it first with just the wheel off. Don't take the belts and etc off yet. If you really can't get the nut off then put the wheel back on. 1st try to use a lot of penetrating oil on the nut a day or 2 before you try to remove it If needed 2nd Find a local tire and wheel shop or repair shop and tell them you want them to help remove the nut. They will probably charge you $20 or so for it. After they break it loose and tighten it back up you will be easily be able to remove the nut again when you are back at home.
They are also gauged on a bolt that is solid and wont move. A crank bolt makes this test irrelevant and dumb. You shouldn't use an impact wrench on a crank pulley bolt.
@@bobthompson4319 can u eliminate the need for a bigger impact wrench all together with that? I’d rather just use a mid torque or less in compact size than pay 300+ for a more powerful impact I’ll only use 5 times in my life, then again idk
@@bobthompson4319 you are full of it. An extended breaker bar will not remove that bolt. It is known in the industry that the bolt is very difficult to remove without pneumatic tools and a weighted heavy duty socket
If I was going to get a mid torque impact wrench, I’d go with Kobalt or the newer Ridgid. If I was going to spend the amount of money to buy a Milwaukee, I would go with Makita or Metabo. They both beat the Milwaukee. Over 700 foot pounds of nut breaking torque each.
the only mid torque worth getting is the dewalt 800ftlbs and honestly the high torque dewalt prob the way to go too less issues than newer milwaukees but the lack of a brake sucks on the dewalt
@@TheCivicsiep3 I got the 650 foot pound Ridgid because I don’t think I will ever need anything stronger. It was on sale for $169 with a battery, a charger and a bag. From what I’ve seen, it doesn’t have all of the Milwaukee problems either, and it has auto stop. The LSA makes it an even better deal.
@@DiligentDave1966 yea understand that for sure! killer deal tbh. i just went to homedepot and the package cost vs bare tool cost makes no sense. i wanted an impact driver it was 159 bare tool but you could get the tool a 5ah xr batttery which they sell for 120$ by itself and a charger for 189? how tf does that make sense? lol but ridgid is making good tools im sure you will be well served. i had all milwaukee now i have all dewalt we will see how they hold up in automotive
Not sure which Milwaukee impact you are referring to. The mid torque only has 3 modes, and the high torque only has 2 modes. Both of which were used in their highest torque setting in this test video. All the torque wrench used in this video are set on the highest torque setting.
@@DownloaderVideo Mode 4 (on Milwaukee 2767) gives same power as on Mode 3. However on mode 4, as soon as it senses the bolt comes loose, it reduces speed to near 1/3 of original speed, so bolts do not go flying off. A wobbly socket can make nuts fly off and hit you in the face when working under a car. Speed 4 makes removing the bolt controllable. Mode 4 as you describe is completely wrong...read the manual (in mode 4 it impacts in forward and reverse...you obviously do not own one).
U can't say the rattle guns failed when u don't have the batteries fully charged. With electric impact wrench voltage is ur best friend. Charge that 8ah milwaukee battery to full and use the high torque milwaukee rattle gun with the weighted socket and they should get it undone
@@viperstrike3827 2767, I'm sure it would. I really don't think the 6.0 or 8.0 Ah batteries provide too much more power. Yet I get they provide some still.
This video is proof that air impacts are not obsolete. But if its not a honda crankshaft bolt then you can get away with almost anything auto motive with a normal impact wrench.
The Milwaukee Gen 2 Mid Torque Impact Wrench should be able to take this crank bolt out with the 5.0 battery and at speed 3. The Gen 2 Milwaukee is rated at 650 ft-lbs of nut busting.
@@upnorth5465 Not true. That guy who uses his meter to test is measuring rotational torque of the motor (not impacts....or the graph would be up/down....not smooth). Impacts make a difference, that his meter does not measure. I have seen several tests with the bolt put on at 1400 ft lbs (torque wrench with multiplier), AND IT REMOVED THEM. Even succeded at 1435 ft lbs. That guy does not know what he is measuring. How the hammer system is set up also affects breaking ability. Two units can have the same rotational torque, but different results on a "real bolt" due to hammer design.
SHOOT SOME PENERTRATING OIL ON BOLT AREA WILL HELP ALOT AFTER IMPACTING 3 OR 4 DIFFERENT GUNS FINALLY CAME OFF SO HOW YOU KNOW THAT THAT LAST GUN WAS ABLE TO DO IT FROM THE START I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE SEEN???
Milwaukee ½ or ¾ high torque impact will do pretty much everything. Even lug nuts bit the 12v platform will do that to a certain degree. If you need torque and use it daily. Get one of these guns and never look back with some deep sockets. I can help you find sockets and the guns
They seld a special socket for the crank poly bolt and trust me make a lot of different, more heavy your sockets are more power you will get and yes a mid torque impact wrench with that special socket will break free the crank bolt.
@@toolgearbandits7223 I dont think it was factory water pump fail an timing belt was about to fail if it wasn't for the pump going first but some get tighter at time
That’s pretty doubtful. I’ve removed them twice with the high torque and a regular socket but it was a fight. I usually get them with the high torque and weighted socket.
Is this a Honda typical problem, I bought the makita hi torque but thought it would smoke everything the car could throw at it, Maybe closer than I thought
Yes common problem. Just get the biggest gun you can afford for those crank pulley bolt. May help to spray penetrating oil on the bolt few days before you start the job.
That's what I bought last year. It took my Honda CRV crank bolt right off in a second without the Lisle socket. Well, I'm just keeping my Lisle anyways, just in case.
This dude just showed us a collection of lit battery impact wrench worth about 1K. Im buying a corded HB impact wrench with over 1050 ftlb torque. for 58.00 with coupon. Geez i want to head bang your coconuts together why you spend so much money for simple work.
Breaker bar and socket, rest the breaker bar aginst the subframe, use the ignition to bump the engine (quick on/off). The bolt will loosen with no problem at all. See this youtube video - Honda Crankshaft Bolt Removal - 100% Guaranteed!
WARNING dont use an impact wrench on a crank bolt. The impacts will dent the crankshaft bearings. This is an amateur move. Yes they are hard to remove iv done quite a few but iv never used an impact and im 5,9 140 so its not like im built and super strong. This test is BS anyway if you used the pulley holder tool its likely most of these wrenches would do the job just fine. According to this test id have to use a 5 ft cheater bar and put 200 lbs of force on it.
@@GaryDelgado so why us it in EVERY service manual? And why would it not take all day? Well I'm 145 lbs and have done service to 250k mile cars. And never used an impact. So in short dont be a pu$$y.
@@bobthompson4319 I don't doubt for a minute that you can do the job, but we know sometimes these crank bolts can take forever to get out. What do the guys at the dealership use? Call and find out, you'll be surprised. An air gun and good compressor make quick work of these. The electric versions are just more accessible for most people. You provided no evidence of bearing damage from impact tools, either anecdotal or documented. Just use common sense and don't round the bolt head. And for God's sake, man, what's that last sentence about?
@@bobthompson4319 The service manual says not to use an impact when TIGHTENING the crank bolt. It doesn't say anything about removing it. I remove the bolt with an impact and tighten it by hand with the special tool designed for Hondas.
BATTERY IMPACT GUNS AINT WORTH A SHIT WHEN IT COMES TO REMOVING HONDA CRANK BOLTS I HAVE A TECHNIC I USE AND IT WORKS ALLTHE TIME GOOD LUCK GENTLE MEN KNOWLEDGE IS NOT GIVEN SO EASILY
![JUST RELEASED! Milwaukee Gen 2 M18 FUEL Mid Torque Impact Review [2960 & 2962]](/img/n.gif)
*Great **MyBest.Tools** tool, lots of power😄😄 and very smooth*
If my Milwaukee can't loosen that bolt then I'm burning the car, hahaha
Hi,
You probably don't have it but the Milwaukee Gen 2 1000 ft lbs (fastening) - 1400 ft lbs (break away) would have been a little easier to take off that Honda bolt.
Thanks for the video
Yeah I don't have the Gen 2 model. I never had a need for it since I have the Gen 1. If I upgrade I'll probably wait for a Gen 3 version.
@@toolgearbandits7223
Yeah, i don't see a gen 3 soon. I only say that because milwaukee already has the 3/4" high impact and the 1 inch high impact.
If you get a chance look at the Offerup app or Craigslist. You might find one at a good deal to just try out.
Good luck...
Thanks for the video
@@michaelc7283 I'm glad you like the video. I do see the Gen 2 around my area for $160-200 range. Only thing is that I am not really interested in the Gen 2 currently.
I am more interested in small impact wrenches in the Compact and Subcompact categories. It's amazing to me how far these little impacts have come. With the power to remove lug nuts and such in such a small package. I use these smaller impact wrenches more so I can justify spending money on them. I hardly ever need to use the high torque models.
But thanks for the suggestion and looking out. 👍
@@toolgearbandits7223
I totally agree. I don't use my Milwaukee High Impact Gen 2 that much but when i do it's awsome.
I do like the milwaukee impact wrench 2755 and 2754. Also the Stubby.
If you look at a video by 94 GT Coupe he converted a DeWalt DCF 887 1/4" impact to a 3/8" impact wrench. I did the same thing to it but then i lost it. It was awsome from the size, handle grip and light. The power was also great. I working on doing it again.
@@michaelc7283 I had a 2754 a while back but I couldn't get that thing to remove lug nuts torque to 130 ft/lbs so I return it. Might have gotten a bad batch.
I converted my old brushed Milwaukee impact driver to 3/8" anvil and I still have it. I did the same with the M12 impact driver but it was too weak so I put it back to the way it was.
I'm looking now to see if I can convert my Makita 1/2" anvil sub compact impact (the one featured on my earlier videos) wrench to a 3/8" anvil. It is too weak for most 1/2" size socket's bolt and nut.
Man, I just bought that same Rigid Octane a few weeks ago. It was sad to see it fail. Dang it!!!!
Yeah me too
Lol I was going to buy that ryobi impact a high torque impact is the best option since I need it to remove crankshaft bolts.
It's still a good gun. Honda crank bolts are just notoriously difficult to remove.
You need the weighted socket to assist with breaking it free. The mid torque and high torque Ridgid have zero problem with the correct socket on the end.
@@brogren802 very true! 👍
Would love to see the gen 2 Milwaukee mid torque try with the weighted socket
Harbor Freight Hercules ultra torque has 1400 ft lb torque and it is competitively priced.
Just removed my crank bolt on honda hrv with d16 engine today , milwaukee miq torque 2gen with 12.0 battery. Did 15 sec backward run and after that another 10 sec backward was enought to remove it! with 4.0ah battery tool feels as half of power instead of 12.0
Did you use a regular 19mm or the thick-walled version?
@@jaysauer3137 just normal impact one! nothing fancy!
I swear this is how my oil guy tightens my oil drain plug. I couldn't even get it open with my high torque 2863-20. Stripped all plug nuts and rounded up well. Had to take it to my oil guy and he used the hammer + screwdriver trick to get it open. Since then I switched to the Fumoto oil drain valve and changed the oil myself.
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
NO ITS NOT, BECAUSE YOUR DETEMPERING THE BOLT OTHER WAYS TO DO THINGS???
I had the pleasure of removing the crank bolt on a s2000. We had to use a 4ft cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar. When it let loose the pipe almost went through the passenger side fender.
The crank bolt has thread lock on from the factory. First time removal of that bolt will be the most difficult.
Not true.
Wrong. No thread locker, just extreme tight. They're torqued to 69Nm with an additional 90 degrees. No thread locker, and anyone that puts thread locker on will regret it.
try the latest mid torque 2962-20 with weight socket
make sure to use 6.0 HO battery instead of the 8.0
It's not the mid torque but more because you used the lisle weighted socket. I have the high torque that will remove that with a regular socket.
At the end I did have to use the high torque and the weighted socket to loosen the nut. I label the last gun I used was the high torque.
Excellent vid! Well done that Honda crank bolt is the king of tightness. The High Torque is a necessity for such tasks. I wonder how your average 1/2" air impact would work on that task, probably would not. You have a nice collection of cordless impact wrenches. I was wondering if the Rigid Octane impact was any more powerful than the Milwaukee M18 Mid Torque. I like the size of the Milwaukee Mid Torque, however it was not powerful enough to remove an over torqued axle nut on my Gen 3 Odyssey. I had to use an older Japan made 1/2 " Craftsman air impact to remove it.
Thanks. The Ridgid has about the same power as the Milwaukee but the Milwaukee is a little more compact.
I was thinking with the help of the weighted crank bolt socket and the supposedly advancement of battery tech giving it more power (as least that's what they claim) that it will be able to break free the crank bolt. Very unfortunate that it can't.
I have a Milwaukee mid torque. It took off the axle nuts of my gen3 Odyssey easily but won't do anything to the crank bolt even with the Lisle heavy socket like you see in the video. My Husky 1/2 air impact (rated 650lb) busted it in literally 2~3 seconds with the Lisle socket. With that said, I use my Milwaukee for almost everything except for the crank bolt.
@@calvinguan3256 dang, I bought a mid torque dewalt thinking it would remove it. I am fucked.
@@toolgearbandits7223 I've actually been looking for a video that does exactly what you did, with all the various setups you used. I might be in trouble. I have the mid-torque Milwaukee and figured that with the 8.0 High Output battery and the Lisle socket that I should have no problem getting the crankbolt off. I might have to rethink this approach.
@@slylockfox85 Don't fret it yet. Try it first with just the wheel off. Don't take the belts and etc off yet. If you really can't get the nut off then put the wheel back on.
1st try to use a lot of penetrating oil on the nut a day or 2 before you try to remove it
If needed
2nd
Find a local tire and wheel shop or repair shop and tell them you want them to help remove the nut. They will probably charge you $20 or so for it. After they break it loose and tighten it back up you will be easily be able to remove the nut again when you are back at home.
I bet you were getting a little worried there towards the end.
I'm thinking a lot of these wrenches are rated in Chinese ft lbs.
They are also gauged on a bolt that is solid and wont move. A crank bolt makes this test irrelevant and dumb. You shouldn't use an impact wrench on a crank pulley bolt.
@@bobthompson4319 what do you use on yours?
@@nunzioification the tool to hold the crank. And a extended breaker bar.
@@bobthompson4319 can u eliminate the need for a bigger impact wrench all together with that? I’d rather just use a mid torque or less in compact size than pay 300+ for a more powerful impact I’ll only use 5 times in my life, then again idk
@@bobthompson4319 you are full of it. An extended breaker bar will not remove that bolt. It is known in the industry that the bolt is very difficult to remove without pneumatic tools and a weighted heavy duty socket
There's a lot of channels on TH-cam showing that bolt coming out easy and as a long time mechanic I know this is untrue and it's been out before.
If I was going to get a mid torque impact wrench, I’d go with Kobalt or the newer Ridgid.
If I was going to spend the amount of money to buy a Milwaukee, I would go with Makita or Metabo. They both beat the Milwaukee. Over 700 foot pounds of nut breaking torque each.
the only mid torque worth getting is the dewalt 800ftlbs and honestly the high torque dewalt prob the way to go too less issues than newer milwaukees but the lack of a brake sucks on the dewalt
@@TheCivicsiep3 I got the 650 foot pound Ridgid because I don’t think I will ever need anything stronger. It was on sale for $169 with a battery, a charger and a bag. From what I’ve seen, it doesn’t have all of the Milwaukee problems either, and it has auto stop. The LSA makes it an even better deal.
@@DiligentDave1966 yea understand that for sure! killer deal tbh. i just went to homedepot and the package cost vs bare tool cost makes no sense. i wanted an impact driver it was 159 bare tool but you could get the tool a 5ah xr batttery which they sell for 120$ by itself and a charger for 189? how tf does that make sense? lol but ridgid is making good tools im sure you will be well served. i had all milwaukee now i have all dewalt we will see how they hold up in automotive
@@TheCivicsiep3 I’m just a DIYER, so it’s not going to be used constantly anyway.
I noticed you had your Milwaukee on setting four in that gen setting 4 is just for fastening not loosing the strongest setting is level 3
Not sure which Milwaukee impact you are referring to. The mid torque only has 3 modes, and the high torque only has 2 modes. Both of which were used in their highest torque setting in this test video.
All the torque wrench used in this video are set on the highest torque setting.
@@toolgearbandits7223 im talking about the gen 1 mid torque wrench
@@Wecandoit23 Ok. But there is only 3 modes. Where are you seeing setting 4?
Incorrect, mode 4 is for fastening without impacting but on reverse or loosening works normally like in mode 3 with full power.
@@DownloaderVideo Mode 4 (on Milwaukee 2767) gives same power as on Mode 3. However on mode 4, as soon as it senses the bolt comes loose, it reduces speed to near 1/3 of original speed, so bolts do not go flying off. A wobbly socket can make nuts fly off and hit you in the face when working under a car. Speed 4 makes removing the bolt controllable. Mode 4 as you describe is completely wrong...read the manual (in mode 4 it impacts in forward and reverse...you obviously do not own one).
U can't say the rattle guns failed when u don't have the batteries fully charged. With electric impact wrench voltage is ur best friend. Charge that 8ah milwaukee battery to full and use the high torque milwaukee rattle gun with the weighted socket and they should get it undone
I will wonder if my high torque gen 2 would take it off with the lisle and a 3.0 Ah HO Battery?
2763? yes it will
@@viperstrike3827 2767, I'm sure it would. I really don't think the 6.0 or 8.0 Ah batteries provide too much more power. Yet I get they provide some still.
@@kartboarder22g17 you're correct in your statement. TorqueTest channel has proven this.
Yeah I have a 6.0 Ah now. But would need the socket or make one.
I like your correct use of you're and your. A lot of people can not
Why do you have so many electric impacts?
This video is proof that air impacts are not obsolete. But if its not a honda crankshaft bolt then you can get away with almost anything auto motive with a normal impact wrench.
The Milwaukee Gen 2 Mid Torque Impact Wrench should be able to take this crank bolt out with the 5.0 battery and at speed 3. The Gen 2 Milwaukee is rated at 650 ft-lbs of nut busting.
What an impact "should" be able to do and what an impact actually does are 2 different things.
Most numbers on the box are BS.
@@upnorth5465 also true
@@upnorth5465 Not true. That guy who uses his meter to test is measuring rotational torque of the motor (not impacts....or the graph would be up/down....not smooth). Impacts make a difference, that his meter does not measure. I have seen several tests with the bolt put on at 1400 ft lbs (torque wrench with multiplier), AND IT REMOVED THEM. Even succeded at 1435 ft lbs. That guy does not know what he is measuring. How the hammer system is set up also affects breaking ability. Two units can have the same rotational torque, but different results on a "real bolt" due to hammer design.
U could HEAR the difference of Milwaukee high torque. Im waitn for more to come in. Home depot is out. What model was urs? Im lookn for 2676.
My Milwaukee high torque was a first generation model. I'm not sure if they even sell those anymore.
Ingersoll Rand Power Sockets.....work also
Which one are those? Can you list a link.
@@toolgearbandits7223 Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 19mm Power Socket put this in amazon
@@iissac22 Thanks.
But when you said sockets I thought you meant it was a set of sockets. Lol
@@toolgearbandits7223 lol i get it...yeah they are like 50-70 a piece for some but very effective.
Is this the new gen or old ?
Old its the p261 not the new p262 that is rated at 600 pounds
I wonder if this would be good for my Chevy P30 chassis motorhome lug nuts? Be nice to carry around
Get the milwaukee 2864 and socket to match. If you haven't already done something! Right now you can get 30 dollars off at home depot!
Should have used the Ridgid with 1500 of torque
SHOOT SOME PENERTRATING OIL ON BOLT AREA WILL HELP ALOT AFTER IMPACTING 3 OR 4 DIFFERENT GUNS FINALLY CAME OFF SO HOW YOU KNOW THAT THAT LAST GUN WAS ABLE TO DO IT FROM THE START I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE SEEN???
see the caps locks button all the way on the left side of the keyboard? go a head and turn that off next time you comment.
Do you think I'd have any yrouble removing rusted exhaust bolts with this?
Milwaukee ½ or ¾ high torque impact will do pretty much everything. Even lug nuts bit the 12v platform will do that to a certain degree. If you need torque and use it daily. Get one of these guns and never look back with some deep sockets. I can help you find sockets and the guns
@@danielboone94 I need a good gun for rusted bolts. I'm so sick of heating shit up.
@@cantnot2797 also tell me what your working on
@@danielboone94 My own vehicles. Cars that have all been through many midwest winters.
@@cantnot2797 I'd get the milwaukee ¾ 2864-21. You can use it for lugs of course but do everything. I work on tractor trailers
They seld a special socket for the crank poly bolt and trust me make a lot of different, more heavy your sockets are more power you will get and yes a mid torque impact wrench with that special socket will break free the crank bolt.
That's what the Lisle socket is
I'm taking about these sockets Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 19mm Power Socket
🤔
now out dewlap dcf 891
I have the ridgid not octane witch is 350 ftp with a crank socket I did take one off from a Honda I think I got lucky
Maybe someone have remove the bolt before.
@@toolgearbandits7223 I dont think it was factory water pump fail an timing belt was about to fail if it wasn't for the pump going first but some get tighter at time
Would Milwaukee M12 3/8 stubby with 1/2 adaptor take it off?
That’s pretty doubtful. I’ve removed them twice with the high torque and a regular socket but it was a fight. I usually get them with the high torque and weighted socket.
Not even in dreams.
Milwakee 2967 will do it.
Is this a Honda typical problem, I bought the makita hi torque but thought it would smoke everything the car could throw at it, Maybe closer than I thought
Yes common problem. Just get the biggest gun you can afford for those crank pulley bolt. May help to spray penetrating oil on the bolt few days before you start the job.
Used baeur habour freight electric took acura mdx it right off it cost $69
It was removed once thats why
@@r.a.p.k.models4160my crank may have been at some point removed before I got the car I do not know
I have that same Bauer gun as a backup. It works really well and has quite a bit of power for the cost
If your impact is 1000 ft lbs and it doesn't break loose.... something is seriously fkd up
That's actually quite common on Honda crank bolt.
I've seen some requiring 3/4 air guns and torch to remove.
Even my ATG Gold (1500) has a hard time removing it.
U can change batters all day if the moters not strong enough its not going to work
Dude just get 2967 drill mil and be done with it
Should’ve tried a Dewalt 899.
That's what I bought last year. It took my Honda CRV crank bolt right off in a second without the Lisle socket. Well, I'm just keeping my Lisle anyways, just in case.
Moral of the story buy a Toyota
Really? Toyota has the same issue
I throw away all those Milwaukee impact if I was you. I go buy Makita.
Probar Manual Impact Wrench.... + 3/6lbs sledgehammer.
Spray penetrating oil on the bolt head. Impacts won’t work well when the socket sticks to the bolt head.
You could have just put some heat to the bolt. Lol
That would have defeated the purpose of this video, which is to test the capability of these Mid Range Impact wrenches.
This dude just showed us a collection of lit battery impact wrench worth about 1K. Im buying a corded HB impact wrench with over 1050 ftlb torque. for 58.00 with coupon. Geez i want to head bang your coconuts together why you spend so much money for simple work.
I changed out a Honda timing belt with nothing but a 6 inch adjustable wrench in the middle of Alaska in the winter....
kids these days
Only Makita 👍
Breaker bar and socket, rest the breaker bar aginst the subframe, use the ignition to bump the engine (quick on/off). The bolt will loosen with no problem at all. See this youtube video - Honda Crankshaft Bolt Removal - 100% Guaranteed!
The AH of the battery won't make it more powerful it'll just last longer.🙄🙄🙄
In most cases the AH of the battery does make a great difference - See the Torque Test Chanel dyno tests!
Do all the Tools in reverse order and you'd had the same success
Sorry but lame try all of them get the rite socket and impact
WARNING dont use an impact wrench on a crank bolt. The impacts will dent the crankshaft bearings. This is an amateur move. Yes they are hard to remove iv done quite a few but iv never used an impact and im 5,9 140 so its not like im built and super strong. This test is BS anyway if you used the pulley holder tool its likely most of these wrenches would do the job just fine. According to this test id have to use a 5 ft cheater bar and put 200 lbs of force on it.
The part about damage to bearings is a myth. Imagine if Honda/Acura techs had to remove these with hand tools. 100k mile services would take all day.
@@GaryDelgado so why us it in EVERY service manual? And why would it not take all day? Well I'm 145 lbs and have done service to 250k mile cars. And never used an impact. So in short dont be a pu$$y.
@@bobthompson4319 I don't doubt for a minute that you can do the job, but we know sometimes these crank bolts can take forever to get out. What do the guys at the dealership use? Call and find out, you'll be surprised. An air gun and good compressor make quick work of these. The electric versions are just more accessible for most people. You provided no evidence of bearing damage from impact tools, either anecdotal or documented. Just use common sense and don't round the bolt head. And for God's sake, man, what's that last sentence about?
@@GaryDelgado Yeah he lost all credibility with that last sentence.
@@bobthompson4319
The service manual says not to use an impact when TIGHTENING the crank bolt. It doesn't say anything about removing it. I remove the bolt with an impact and tighten it by hand with the special tool designed for Hondas.
BATTERY IMPACT GUNS AINT WORTH A SHIT WHEN IT COMES TO REMOVING HONDA CRANK BOLTS I HAVE A TECHNIC I USE AND IT WORKS ALLTHE TIME GOOD LUCK GENTLE MEN KNOWLEDGE IS NOT GIVEN SO EASILY
IT'S CAPS LOCK GUY AGAIN!11!!11!!!! YEESH