I have to say, I don't comment often on videos.But when I saw your Saskatchewan Roughriders shirt I had to reach out. Great to see green. I grew up in Saskatchewan and I'll bleed Rider green to the day they pry the soldering iron out of my cold dead hand!!!! Thanks for the videos, they have helped me out several times!!!! Keep up the great work.
Depending on your bench power supply type, you may be able to use it to charge those types of batteries. Set it to 4.2v and 1 amp or less and it'll charge it just as well as the little charger.
I could watch what you do for hours as I know I'd be hopeless at what you're doing.....but I've just spent a while shouting at my screen "The LED won't show until you put the pods in the case!" You finally heard me!
Ok. I must be the only one that was PUMPED to see you in Roughrider gear!! How the? What the? Please. Share with the class. I’m living in Sask and been a fan forever. I also never skip the rap.
Mate you such a legend. I stumbled across your channel about a week ago and havnt stopped watching. You remind me of my late father. My mrs face when she sees me watching you and the raps is just hilarious. Keep up the amazing work, wish I could do what you do am desperately trying to find something cool that's broken to send in! I might buy something for you if I can find something cool enough. Cheers bertie in devon
Love your videos fella, when seeing the boards under mirlcrosope tou dont realise how small the components are. I feel inspired to do a course and have a cracking at repairing some of my old 80's &90's gadgets
This is your second video I'm watching and I'm impressed. Both entertaining and informative. I have faith and I'm encouraged to do more myself. Well done sir 👍🏾
Always entertaining videos. As i see it, you have fixed the symptom. A deep discharged battery. But why did it discharge so much? Should it not be a protection agains this?
Unexpected surprise for me to see you showing your 'Rider Pride - wherever did you come across a Saskatchewan Roughriders t-shirt? Love it. Also good fix.
overdraining the battery to the point it won't charge is a very common issue in these small devices. especially early models. they original samsung watch had the same issue if you didn't charge them for a few months and the only official fix was to take them to a service location for a battery replacement. There are a few models of earbud style headphones where the buds don't turn off properly so keep pulling current from the case until the case is dead.
Huh. Didn't even know B&O were still around! Used to walk past their shop in Maidstone in the late 70s and marvel at how freaking stupid their 'HiFi' gear in the window looked. I was always a specs guy even back then as a teen, and drooled over AudioTechnica, JVC and such. B&O gear just looked like it was designed for rich folk who didn't know any better. My opinion hasn't changed! Great vid as always my friend.
A little harsh, B&O especially in the 70's and 80's was top notch stuff. Neither Audio Technica nor JVC would have been any better. I feel B&O went more in the design over everything else later, but for a while they were really proper good with the looks to match. But they were expensive, and if you want to have those old vinyl players and keep them alive, they still are. Just a new stylus for a Beogram vinyl player can cost you 500-700 dollars. Insane, but they're proprietary and discontinued-ish. Sound still holds up though, 30-40 years later. I'd probably get one if I could afford it, prices have gone up tremendously (like with everything retro).
As others have said, the battery should connect to the inner pads labelled b+ and b-, this way, the battery is protected from over charging and discharging. . The ones you used, should go to the device.
That "bad boy" charger is commonly known as the TP4056 Li batt charger and while they are cheap, I get my equivalents for free. They are usually part of the fancier disposable vapes, more specifically the Vapengin Mars2 and the Elfbar FS18000. The ic is a LP4073 made by Low Power Semi. The resistor between ground and pin 6 determines the charge current. Usually factory default is 2.4k ohm for a 500ma charge current for vapes, but a 1.8k ohm resistor ramps it up to 900ma. A tiny heat sink on the LP4073 is a good idea to cool it down and extend service life. The nice part about the vape chargers is that they most often have a batt % full meter so you dont have to keep on measuring with a DMM to see when they are finished. The cheap tube style with a charge port on the bottom are to be avoided as they usually use a voltage divider with resistors. Some of the higher "puff count" vapes with leds as a display screen use a 32 bit micro controller to drive the leds. These IC's have twice the performance of an Arduino Uno. In particular the Nasty Bar 20000 and BLVK Bar 20000 have the Puya PY32F030 which is a 32 bit mcu running at 48Mhz with 8K sram and 64K flash. Just doing my bit to keep decent electronics out of the land fill.
You soldered the battery to the device output of tp4056 instead of the battery pins. If I remember correctly in your earlier video also you've also incorrectly connected like that as well. Those 2 outer pins are meant for devices that utilize the battery. You solder the tp4056's outer pins to the device instead of the battery. You should connect the battery to B+ and B- pins.
@@l0udPLdon't also tell me that headphone out and line out are the same thing, please. Line out is unamplified and your flippant advice will cause dangerous behavior, let's not write things based on "I said it so it's true" because that is how bad advice gets disseminated and thousands of random people repeat bad information because nobody corrects them in time, and nobody even bothers to just their own facts because they are so smart.
Actually, I would agree with loud. It doesn't matter in this usage because it's only being used to boost a battery temporarily and not as a permanent solution. Yes, if this was a permanent solution then yes you should connect the accurately to prevent overcharging and over discharge, but that's not what this is being used for, And in fact, if he did correct it accurately, it might not even charge a low battery because of a safety mechanism because many charge devices do not even allow you to charge completely dead batteries
@@JustMatt87 For that case, you do not use that output to fully charge the battery, but you just try to kick start it, while providing very low current (like 50mah), then go on with the normal charge pins. For that exact purpose, I have some modified tp4056 modules lying around, which I changed the resistors so they provide less current than the stock value. I use them for smaller batteries, or kickstart totally flat ones. What Steve did there is very risky and has a risk of exploding the battery if you'd ask me.
Ive got a original switch that wont switch on 😭😭😭. Wish i could fix things like you. Only thing i managed to do was fit a new battery in & that didn't help it & fix joycon drift with new replacement which at least that worked. Thats the best i could do
Steve, all these li-ion batteries run on 3.7 is low/dead 4.2 is fully charged fyi for a single cell. The 3.7 low limit is how these chargers know not to charge the battery when it's below generally below 3.0 volts due the risk. The battery will likely give out much sooner since it's been damaged by being so low. How it got so low is actually the real question. Did the Beoplay fail and keep drawing the battery down to 0 volts, or was the battery faulty from the start and it's shorting internally drawing itself to 0 volts? I'd say the battery is faulty. It's likely going to just die while sitting.
yes that's common problem, when the battery go below certain voltage and device has detection before charging such battery. I use also direct charge and after that it usually works
You scared me for a minute, when desoldering the battery! I was scared the soldering iron tip was gonna short the battery, because that’s what I’ve done before, because I’m so smart 😂 Also if you see an odd ‘spike’ in your video statistics in the middle of the rap, that’s me showing my partner the bit with my name in over and over whilst she wasn’t paying attention each time. 😂
That's what I like about the Samsung buds. The LED actually shows on the outside whether the case is charging, with or without the buds themselves in the case, and in addition there is a LED inside the case stating the buds power level and charge
I love this channel and always look forward to new videos but!!! Anybody else cringing at the battery leads flying about potentially touching each other? And when soldering OMG! 😯 Also although the battery came back it will be seriously damaged by being so low and could potentially even be dangerous. It might be worth replacing it if you intend to use these earbuds.
I've been thinking of getting a microscope for a while now and I've just watched a review you did on the 10" model. Like you I think I prefer the smaller one that you're using now. I like the modification you've made to the arm, can you give some details so that I can shamelessy copy please?
@@hiredgun7186the town that rhymes with fun? 😂 Been there twice, once in February. Now I know what cold really means… SaskTel and SaskPower were my customers. 😎
Possibly like with PS4 controller batteries. There's a little (BMS?) Board on the battery. Remove the board and measure straight onto the battery. It should work and give you a voltage.
7:21 - Oh you need special flux when reflowing and desoldering SMD components. My Arduino mini connector lifted due to stress and I thought I'd follow Steve's heatgun approach and just heat it up, but all I did was melt the connector, and board and destroyed all the tracks. I will definitely buy some ChipQuick for future repairs. But tell me, is a low heat solder necessary, or will just a regular hobby store (radio shack) fine solder (.5mm model B-2 flux 2%) adequate - how does the chipquik flux absorb into the existing solder to lower it's boiling point and allow for easier removal?
you soldered the now full battery in and wondered why it didnt charge further. 4,2v is the most common cutoff for most lithium batteries. i mean it didnt hurt but it was unneeded work. and work is to be avoided.
Wait a second....it took me a bit to realize it but what's up with that t-shirt? I'm in Calgary, Alberta, home of the Calgary Stampeders of the CfL. I have to know the story behind you swear a riders shirt .
I'm pretty sure if you just plugged the standard charger in over night, it would have eventually charged. There is charging module in the speakers that will only trickle charge (slow though not not even show up on your volt and amp meter) the battery when it gets dangerously low, as it was. Most people don't know this, and won't even attempt it. If it doesn't charge in an hour time, they figure it's ready for the bin.
On those wee charging modules (presumably TP4056 based), shouldn't the B+ and B- terminals be connected to the battery while the V+ and V- terminals connect to the device? As part of the protection circuitry? Even if that's the case, it's a potential missue that could be an interesting approach to reviving dead batteries.
I'm no expert, but, I think the bms shut down the battery due to its low voltage protection. Battery then needs defibrillator to spark it back into life.....
Commenting before the end of the video because of the pain this caused me. Battery protection kicked in when you desoldered it. To reset the battery protection, just apply more than the battery voltage, but not more than 4.2v to the leads. If the battery didn't have protection you'd have caused some nice sparking, potentially more, by desoldering it like this.
I must say, without the protection board on the battery, this could have ended as a fireworks display. You should really put more care into handling lithium batteries and cells. If this little pouch battery had no protection and you short circuited it in its "charged to the brim" state with 4,2 V, it could have enraged a firestorm. Be careful, this ain't no AA battery.
Felt the same pain at 3:40 when the soldering iron bridged all the contacts. Good luck that this battery had a short-circuit protection build in. Other than that, nice to see these repaired.
I love this channel, but we don't see things explode enough - there's comments etc (as in this video) to tempt us into the hope of seeing something explode and maybe even see your man get blinded, but it doesn't happen. Come on Mr StezStix, give us some face injuring explosions like I get when poking around with a soldering iron.
amazing how the charge indicator light came on when the earbuds were in there to be charged. and didnt when you didnt have the earbuds in there (if you miss the point of this message, there was no need to swap the batteries over, you just needed to put the earbuds in there)
Steve please please Please solder to the battery pins on your charger or solve the mystery of why it works and why the battery doesn’t explode when you charge it on the output pins lol. 😂😂😂😂
Surely the first thing to do was to see if the beige earbuds charge in the black case. Then you could determine whether it is the case or the earbuds that are faulty. Assume you did that before the video.
I have a load of old uk electronics that need testing, most have no plug but it’s the old style wiring. Whats the best bench power supply to buy so I can test them? Do I need one that will go up to 240v?
Could still be a leaky cap or something that's causing the battery to get completely drained instead of being cut off below 3.7V . Yes you fixed it by force charging the battery , but in the long term it may happen again unfortunately. I had this issue on a ipod clone which destroyed li ion batteries.
WOW, for a second there I thought you were getting electrocuted through your head via your ears. But then I figured out you were merely bounding to the earbud tune... Close call... lol
Good fix but, as another comment, wire the battery to the B+ and B- terminals please, even if just for my OCD. The +ve and B+ terminals are common but the B- is isolated from the -ve pin via the mosfets if there is over current, under voltage, etc. Safety first 👍
There's a button on the side of the ammeter that flips the display. Thought you may find that helpful. Great video!
I have to say, I don't comment often on videos.But when I saw your Saskatchewan Roughriders shirt I had to reach out. Great to see green. I grew up in Saskatchewan and I'll bleed Rider green to the day they pry the soldering iron out of my cold dead hand!!!! Thanks for the videos, they have helped me out several times!!!! Keep up the great work.
Depending on your bench power supply type, you may be able to use it to charge those types of batteries. Set it to 4.2v and 1 amp or less and it'll charge it just as well as the little charger.
I could watch what you do for hours as I know I'd be hopeless at what you're doing.....but I've just spent a while shouting at my screen "The LED won't show until you put the pods in the case!" You finally heard me!
Was about to post the same thing.
I was shouting as well Lol!
be the time he didn't "put it all back together" to test lol
Another shouter here! Its frustrating sometimes :D
😂
Ok. I must be the only one that was PUMPED to see you in Roughrider gear!! How the? What the? Please. Share with the class. I’m living in Sask and been a fan forever. I also never skip the rap.
Mate you such a legend. I stumbled across your channel about a week ago and havnt stopped watching. You remind me of my late father. My mrs face when she sees me watching you and the raps is just hilarious. Keep up the amazing work, wish I could do what you do am desperately trying to find something cool that's broken to send in! I might buy something for you if I can find something cool enough. Cheers bertie in devon
Love your videos fella, when seeing the boards under mirlcrosope tou dont realise how small the components are. I feel inspired to do a course and have a cracking at repairing some of my old 80's &90's gadgets
I had the same problem with Apple earpods pro 2 and I wireless charger with USB connection and it started.
Love you videos❤
This is your second video I'm watching and I'm impressed. Both entertaining and informative. I have faith and I'm encouraged to do more myself. Well done sir 👍🏾
I am a new fan too. I watch my mate Vince and tronicsfix. This channel was recommended and became an instant favorite for me.
Mistakes or not I always enjoy the video and the problem solving process.
Always entertaining videos. As i see it, you have fixed the symptom. A deep discharged battery. But why did it discharge so much? Should it not be a protection agains this?
Unexpected surprise for me to see you showing your 'Rider Pride - wherever did you come across a Saskatchewan Roughriders t-shirt? Love it. Also good fix.
Next, a Dog River 'River Dogs' shirt. Don't mention Wullerton. * spits *
At least we only have one Roughriders team left.. The CFL is an odd league
A Letterkenny shirt would be impressive!
Nice one Steve. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
ABSOLUTELY LOVE That you're wearing a Sask. Roughriders Shirt
overdraining the battery to the point it won't charge is a very common issue in these small devices. especially early models. they original samsung watch had the same issue if you didn't charge them for a few months and the only official fix was to take them to a service location for a battery replacement. There are a few models of earbud style headphones where the buds don't turn off properly so keep pulling current from the case until the case is dead.
Huh. Didn't even know B&O were still around! Used to walk past their shop in Maidstone in the late 70s and marvel at how freaking stupid their 'HiFi' gear in the window looked. I was always a specs guy even back then as a teen, and drooled over AudioTechnica, JVC and such. B&O gear just looked like it was designed for rich folk who didn't know any better. My opinion hasn't changed! Great vid as always my friend.
probably why they were engraved "Jemima" 🤣🤣
A little harsh, B&O especially in the 70's and 80's was top notch stuff. Neither Audio Technica nor JVC would have been any better. I feel B&O went more in the design over everything else later, but for a while they were really proper good with the looks to match. But they were expensive, and if you want to have those old vinyl players and keep them alive, they still are. Just a new stylus for a Beogram vinyl player can cost you 500-700 dollars. Insane, but they're proprietary and discontinued-ish. Sound still holds up though, 30-40 years later. I'd probably get one if I could afford it, prices have gone up tremendously (like with everything retro).
As others have said, the battery should connect to the inner pads labelled b+ and b-, this way, the battery is protected from over charging and discharging. . The ones you used, should go to the device.
Battery has protection built in.
Would have been a lithium fire otherwise due to the shorts while soldering.
I didn't know you're a Sask roughrider fan. Nice t-shirt!
I'm Saskaman! 😉
I've been watching your videos for awhile and have really enjoyed them so far. Keep up the good work.
That "bad boy" charger is commonly known as the TP4056 Li batt charger and while they are cheap, I get my equivalents for free.
They are usually part of the fancier disposable vapes, more specifically the Vapengin Mars2 and the Elfbar FS18000.
The ic is a LP4073 made by Low Power Semi. The resistor between ground and pin 6 determines the charge current.
Usually factory default is 2.4k ohm for a 500ma charge current for vapes, but a 1.8k ohm resistor ramps it up to 900ma.
A tiny heat sink on the LP4073 is a good idea to cool it down and extend service life.
The nice part about the vape chargers is that they most often have a batt % full meter so you dont have to keep on measuring with a DMM to see when they are finished.
The cheap tube style with a charge port on the bottom are to be avoided as they usually use a voltage divider with resistors.
Some of the higher "puff count" vapes with leds as a display screen use a 32 bit micro controller to drive the leds. These IC's have twice the performance of an Arduino Uno.
In particular the Nasty Bar 20000 and BLVK Bar 20000 have the Puya PY32F030 which is a 32 bit mcu running at 48Mhz with 8K sram and 64K flash.
Just doing my bit to keep decent electronics out of the land fill.
I was kinda sorta hoping to hear Scarlet Fire in the sound test, but that's probably just me. 😀
Thank you for another entertaining vid!
😂 It'd be cool to see if Steve could fix the Shrekpod..
Good job repair those, great videos... Thanks for sharing. I enjoy watching your videos, stezStix... 😊
Great quick fix, thanks Steve 😊
You soldered the battery to the device output of tp4056 instead of the battery pins. If I remember correctly in your earlier video also you've also incorrectly connected like that as well. Those 2 outer pins are meant for devices that utilize the battery. You solder the tp4056's outer pins to the device instead of the battery. You should connect the battery to B+ and B- pins.
Doesn't really matter in that usage (merely charging the battery)
@@l0udPL It does matter, the inner pads labelled b+ and b- protect from overcharging and discharging.
@@l0udPLdon't also tell me that headphone out and line out are the same thing, please. Line out is unamplified and your flippant advice will cause dangerous behavior, let's not write things based on "I said it so it's true" because that is how bad advice gets disseminated and thousands of random people repeat bad information because nobody corrects them in time, and nobody even bothers to just their own facts because they are so smart.
Actually, I would agree with loud. It doesn't matter in this usage because it's only being used to boost a battery temporarily and not as a permanent solution. Yes, if this was a permanent solution then yes you should connect the accurately to prevent overcharging and over discharge, but that's not what this is being used for, And in fact, if he did correct it accurately, it might not even charge a low battery because of a safety mechanism because many charge devices do not even allow you to charge completely dead batteries
@@JustMatt87 For that case, you do not use that output to fully charge the battery, but you just try to kick start it, while providing very low current (like 50mah), then go on with the normal charge pins. For that exact purpose, I have some modified tp4056 modules lying around, which I changed the resistors so they provide less current than the stock value. I use them for smaller batteries, or kickstart totally flat ones. What Steve did there is very risky and has a risk of exploding the battery if you'd ask me.
Stez do you have a link or a model number for the charging circuit? Great video as always. BTW I was shouting at you to put the earphones in the box 😂
Ive got a original switch that wont switch on 😭😭😭. Wish i could fix things like you. Only thing i managed to do was fit a new battery in & that didn't help it & fix joycon drift with new replacement which at least that worked. Thats the best i could do
Welcome to Steve shorts fully charged LiPo's!
Great video where do you get the charging bits please
"I don't know where it pinged off to ...."
I imagine Steve walking around his room, knee deep in 'pinged off' components
:)
Steve, all these li-ion batteries run on 3.7 is low/dead 4.2 is fully charged fyi for a single cell. The 3.7 low limit is how these chargers know not to charge the battery when it's below generally below 3.0 volts due the risk. The battery will likely give out much sooner since it's been damaged by being so low. How it got so low is actually the real question. Did the Beoplay fail and keep drawing the battery down to 0 volts, or was the battery faulty from the start and it's shorting internally drawing itself to 0 volts? I'd say the battery is faulty. It's likely going to just die while sitting.
yes that's common problem, when the battery go below certain voltage and device has detection before charging such battery. I use also direct charge and after that it usually works
Nice work Steve 👍
Nice to see you haven't cheaped out on the solder and flux, your ipa bottle is a bit small tho, isn't 5 litres like £15? Keep up the good work man!
You scared me for a minute, when desoldering the battery! I was scared the soldering iron tip was gonna short the battery, because that’s what I’ve done before, because I’m so smart 😂
Also if you see an odd ‘spike’ in your video statistics in the middle of the rap, that’s me showing my partner the bit with my name in over and over whilst she wasn’t paying attention each time. 😂
Please can you tell me what make are the meters that tells you what amps the batterys are drawing thank you and as always steve great video 😊👍
That's what I like about the Samsung buds. The LED actually shows on the outside whether the case is charging, with or without the buds themselves in the case, and in addition there is a LED inside the case stating the buds power level and charge
Love the shirt!
What is your background? You seem very knowledgeable and I learn something new just about every video. Just curious 🤔
Good video, great shirt.
Good lord, that's random. A Saskatchewan Roughriders shirt! How strange. Big fan by the way
I love this channel and always look forward to new videos but!!!
Anybody else cringing at the battery leads flying about potentially touching each other? And when soldering OMG! 😯
Also although the battery came back it will be seriously damaged by being so low and could potentially even be dangerous. It might be worth replacing it if you intend to use these earbuds.
I love your videos. A tutorial video from you would be cool.
I've been thinking of getting a microscope for a while now and I've just watched a review you did on the 10" model. Like you I think I prefer the smaller one that you're using now. I like the modification you've made to the arm, can you give some details so that I can shamelessy copy please?
Just a thought could use a Wago connector to connect the battery and the charging circuit save a little time and solder 🙂
Thought you must be on holiday! Not had a video in ages
you should hook the battery up to B- on the tp4056 so that you benefit from the actual charging circuitry protections. The positive rail is commoned.
nice work steve, do you have a link for that little usb charger thingy ma jig ?
He added it to the video description
Simple fix! Nice
Great videos. But I can't watch them anymore on my TV as they just play in another language and doesn't have an English option. Really confused.
You inspire me thank you
Noice!, just outta interest , what type of wire are you using on your charge board to solder the battery too?
Another great job👌🏻
Go Sask Riders! Have you ever attended one of their games?
Yup great T-shirt.
poorly called game in the semi , but still love the Roughies, Originally from Regina myself
I miss the good ol' days when you could catch a game between the Roughriders and the Rough Riders...
@@hiredgun7186the town that rhymes with fun? 😂
Been there twice, once in February. Now I know what cold really means…
SaskTel and SaskPower were my customers. 😎
Lol I noticed the shirt right away. But being in Toronto id obviously say...Arrrrgggoooss!
Possibly like with PS4 controller batteries. There's a little (BMS?) Board on the battery. Remove the board and measure straight onto the battery. It should work and give you a voltage.
7:21 - Oh you need special flux when reflowing and desoldering SMD components. My Arduino mini connector lifted due to stress and I thought I'd follow Steve's heatgun approach and just heat it up, but all I did was melt the connector, and board and destroyed all the tracks. I will definitely buy some ChipQuick for future repairs. But tell me, is a low heat solder necessary, or will just a regular hobby store (radio shack) fine solder (.5mm model B-2 flux 2%) adequate - how does the chipquik flux absorb into the existing solder to lower it's boiling point and allow for easier removal?
Good show!
Where in the devil did you get a Saskatchewan roughriders shirt from? my favourite team , I am from Regina Saskatchewan originally, I love seeing this
Very good
I went to 2:36 for my sanity fix. Nothing personal. I actually love good music. Just saying
Mate that music is banging you could sell that it was actually really good ❤ shat myself on the Jackson part😂😂
Someone is going to have to send you a Winnipeg Blue Bombers shirt.
Any thought on adding crocodile clamps on your battery charger board 🤔
you soldered the now full battery in and wondered why it didnt charge further. 4,2v is the most common cutoff for most lithium batteries. i mean it didnt hurt but it was unneeded work. and work is to be avoided.
Wait a second....it took me a bit to realize it but what's up with that t-shirt? I'm in Calgary, Alberta, home of the Calgary Stampeders of the CfL. I have to know the story behind you swear a riders shirt .
Oh thank God another Stamps fan in the comments,
Half of the comments on this thread are CFL chirps.
Really curious about the Saskatchewan Roughriders jersey you're wearing!
Oh wow the B&O rap was very reminiscent of LL circa his I need love era!
Instead of ISO try using acetone (nail vanish remover) for taking off glue on the battery terminals
If you need solder or flux you should add to wish list
Agreed. I thought the same thing 🙂
Good shout! Not sure why I didn't think of that 😬
One week later a life time supply of flux and solder shows up😂
I'm pretty sure if you just plugged the standard charger in over night, it would have eventually charged. There is charging module in the speakers that will only trickle charge (slow though not not even show up on your volt and amp meter) the battery when it gets dangerously low, as it was. Most people don't know this, and won't even attempt it. If it doesn't charge in an hour time, they figure it's ready for the bin.
On those wee charging modules (presumably TP4056 based), shouldn't the B+ and B- terminals be connected to the battery while the V+ and V- terminals connect to the device? As part of the protection circuitry? Even if that's the case, it's a potential missue that could be an interesting approach to reviving dead batteries.
Absolutely correct.
Please can I get your Amazon wish lists link
Thanks
I just don't get why wouldn't the black ones work? :D In today's episode, Steve tests known working earbuds and they work! :)
I'm no expert, but, I think the bms shut down the battery due to its low voltage protection. Battery then needs defibrillator to spark it back into life.....
Commenting before the end of the video because of the pain this caused me. Battery protection kicked in when you desoldered it. To reset the battery protection, just apply more than the battery voltage, but not more than 4.2v to the leads. If the battery didn't have protection you'd have caused some nice sparking, potentially more, by desoldering it like this.
I must say, without the protection board on the battery, this could have ended as a fireworks display. You should really put more care into handling lithium batteries and cells. If this little pouch battery had no protection and you short circuited it in its "charged to the brim" state with 4,2 V, it could have enraged a firestorm.
Be careful, this ain't no AA battery.
Felt the same pain at 3:40 when the soldering iron bridged all the contacts. Good luck that this battery had a short-circuit protection build in. Other than that, nice to see these repaired.
It's not like it's going to seriously hurt him. Fire is entertaining, too.
I love this channel, but we don't see things explode enough - there's comments etc (as in this video) to tempt us into the hope of seeing something explode and maybe even see your man get blinded, but it doesn't happen. Come on Mr StezStix, give us some face injuring explosions like I get when poking around with a soldering iron.
Lmfao 😂
amazing how the charge indicator light came on when the earbuds were in there to be charged. and didnt when you didnt have the earbuds in there
(if you miss the point of this message, there was no need to swap the batteries over, you just needed to put the earbuds in there)
Totally thought this was going to be a video about free soap bars.
Sei molto divertente. Complimenti
Steve please please Please solder to the battery pins on your charger or solve the mystery of why it works and why the battery doesn’t explode when you charge it on the output pins lol. 😂😂😂😂
Sorry to ask what is the name of the brush you use with IPA? The ones I buy the bristles are to soft. Thanks
Im gonna try that with my old galaxy buds they had the same issue
Surely the first thing to do was to see if the beige earbuds charge in the black case. Then you could determine whether it is the case or the earbuds that are faulty. Assume you did that before the video.
I have a load of old uk electronics that need testing, most have no plug but it’s the old style wiring. Whats the best bench power supply to buy so I can test them? Do I need one that will go up to 240v?
Wearing a Saskatchewan Ruffriders shirt... But it's Toronto and Winnipeg in the Canadian Hand-egg final today 🙄
you can altso use powersupply at 4.2V 1 Amp to be sure ;-)
Could still be a leaky cap or something that's causing the battery to get completely drained instead of being cut off below 3.7V . Yes you fixed it by force charging the battery , but in the long term it may happen again unfortunately. I had this issue on a ipod clone which destroyed li ion batteries.
You have the battery connected to the load circuit of the pcb battery charger and not on the battery part where it's supposed to be.
Out of interest did you try the pink buds in the black case to see if they charged in a different case?
5:43 No. You’d need diodes to rectify that. But it’s already DC, so there’d be no reason to do that ;)
I was following fine until you tried to explain which battery goes where and now I can't remember how to tie my shoelaces anymore... thanks Steve!
Any idea why I can get this video in the English audio? Have you changed something on the video settings?
whats the name of the background "flute" music with the intro plz
Nice
That little board does magic to fix "dead" batteries.
I would have checked to see if the broken ones buds would charge in the other case first, just to be sure the headphones work at all .
WOW, for a second there I thought you were getting electrocuted through your head via your ears. But then I figured out you were merely bounding to the earbud tune... Close call... lol
Good fix but, as another comment, wire the battery to the B+ and B- terminals please, even if just for my OCD. The +ve and B+ terminals are common but the B- is isolated from the -ve pin via the mosfets if there is over current, under voltage, etc. Safety first 👍
Niice. Its a danish product. From my own country. Yeah B&O arent cheap. Also you did quite great with the pronunciation.
Are you wearing a RoughRiders shirt?
Steve maybe the manufacturers of the solder and flux will send you some for FREE !!!
FYI.. A LiPo battery cell measures 3.7volts nominal voltage. A fully charged cell would be 4.2volts.