I'm almost certain he has one, pretty sure he's used it in another video just to rest it out. If I remember correctly, a viewer sent it to him. Apparently he is not a big fan of it, because I'm not sure I have seen it since. Either that, or he forgets he has it when he has an opportunity to use it.
Just a quick tip when handling storage units; Do not open them directly on your main computer. Get a sacrificial PC disconnected from your internet that you use to connect the storage unit to assess if they are safe. Thanks
I want to add something. If you get an SSD or USB drive from a customer you have to try any partition manager software (not Windows Disk Manager) if you find the entire drive unalocated of not initialized. For some reason, not using those drives for a while makes Windows not recognizing the partitions. You just have to refresh or rebuild them by just editing (ex. resizing) a partition via Aomei, MiniTool, Easus, etc. The old partitions are going to be visible just with external software. Assign letters to the partitions... Then the partitions are going to recover and show again, along the data. Very important, don't go too fast creating a partition!
Was coming to say a similar thing. Windows will show no data (even if there is) if it can't see partitions or recognise a format (NTFS etc) but data can still be there and obtainable. Creating a partition for windows to see will wipe that data. Love Stezstix vids btw, honestly learn alot
10:55 If the windings on an inductor are shorted together, you will get continuity, but it will be faulty as it would be a low Ohm link rather than an inductor. The best way to check them is with an LCR Meter, I have a couple made by Peal Electronics and one made by Megger. There's a MEGGER B131 on Ebay now at £55 which is worth a punt. A ESR meter may also give you an indication of the condition of an inductor by comparing the reading with a known inductor of the same value.
Impressed you went to the effort of fixing it! The benefits of it being a hobby for sure! I think if a customer came in and showed me that, once the Drive was proven to be OK I'd probably tell them my time alone would be more expensive than a replacement. I have the same UGREEN caddy as you, and im pretty sure they are about 15 quid with prime delivery haha!
I Dunno why TH-cam recommend me this video. Watched this video through the end. Your video makes it worth to be subscribed. Good job, nicely done the fix.
I have the same drive caddy. I ran a raspberry pi on it for a couple of weeks. It stopped working and was always quite warm. I’m going to give it a look if I didn’t throw it out. Thanks for the video.
Excellent repair, I especially like how you improved the design of the PCB, so if the coil fails Again in the future you'll be able to see a visible clue when it melts the plastic casing.
Wow. How rewarding that must be. I kinda miss the fireworks tho like when I do I repair. If my dog doesn't go running out the room when I plug it in, then I didnt fix it bad enough. One of these days ima get it. I wish I could find an obvious fault like a single burnt inductor, but seems mine are always absolutey pristine or half the board is charred. I'm gonna take a closer look at tge inductor on my caddy tho..nice, pleasant to watch video.
SMD components that have broken due to shock may be cracked, when touched with a measuring tool (e.g. with a small touch (pressing the spot), when cool) it gives the correct reading, but e.g. with a different temperature (expansion/shrinkage/shift) or without touching, the crack is open. And then an anomaly occurs. That is, it is always worth trying to measure the component without affecting the component (as far away from the contact/component as possible, so that the touch does not move the component or the component's solder)
This small original inductor may have been intact, but it was originally poorly soldered (because its thermal mass was larger and this was not taken into account, like other SMD components), poor connection (with normal user movement/vibration/shocks) but the solder came loose and the contact was sometimes there and sometimes not (radiating heat when using the battery, i.e. thermal stress moved/bent the component, the poor connection opened and started to crackle (high resistance on a small contact surface/crack and high heat, creating carbon on top of everything, i.e. like crackling when moving loose wires together and apart during voltage and resistance)
Good Job Stevie 👏 love your work man, ive watched all of your repair videos over the last 6 months and ive learnt a shitload from you, love your realistic videos- keep it up bro, when you upload a new vid it makes my day driving in the van all day
Abandoning an expensive SSD without en trying a different case seems bizarre to me! Good content and a trophy for the channel though so who’s complaining. Perhaps offer it back?
Amazing! I have the exact same code on my lugg.... ehr, the same SSD carrier bought on Ama*** with the same style error. I now will proceed to put it on my desk next to my microscope and forget about it for at least 14 months. I might just remember to give it a one start review since this is clearly a problem for several (if not most?) of them.
When checking drives, you could also test slow-formatting the drive, then filling it up full, then checking the checksums. Often drives fail later like that, even if the volume shows up in explorer. Especially flash drives often fail.
What? No 2 second rap at 4:30??? 😄 I really do love your videos and have learned quite a bit. I am testing my skills with a mini USB UPS repair for a camera.
Watching a man throw caution to the wind with a plug in device that doesn’t work from someone else’s computer. Love it. Phishing usb stick anyone? Another great video. ❤
Let's forget the humour and potential malicious content for a moment. A shorted out USB device could damage a PC. So in a way he did throw caution to the wind.
Inductor size is roughly a measure of its amp capacity. Your replacement set is apparently beefier than what comes off the average board. Order some of a smaller amp capacity to get smaller sizes. You can also measure the mm distance between contacts as well as the width of the contacts, concatenate the numbers together, and that's the footprint number.
Inductors are coils of wire so usually have very low resistance but can either go O/C no reading or shorted turns so still very low resistance but difficult to tell if faulty. Need an inductance meter or LCR meter to verify - cheap ones on Amazon for just over £20. Correct it doesn't matter which way around they go. Only matters for transformers - also coils of wire. I hate those type of caddies because even if the heat pads take the heat away from the chips there is nowhere for it to go. Good spot on the inductor!!
Once I had a problem with a document scanner that had a connection that was causing it to connect and disconnect repeatedly (annoyingly causing windows to make the sounds associated). I just got some quick drying electronics contact cleaner and gave the port on the scanner a very quick and short shot and the USB cable end that plugs into it. It worked really well. Just make sure that it is plastic safe and won't melt plastics. Also the stuff I used is not conductive but despite that I allowed it 15 minutes to dry. A fan or spot with a good breeze would have had this stuff dry long before the 15 minutes but without power to the cable I plugged it in a couple times while it was still wet with the cleaner and that may have helped it some. Just if there is a chance that some of the stuff can get in the case don't soak it, a quick shot is all it takes. If you use too much it may take a much longer time to dry and if it is not non conductive that can be bad. If you don't need it right away you can let it dry overnight if you want to be safe. I only did this because I did not want to buy a new scanner. There is no point in throwing it out if you can get it working again.
inductors I never had much experience with at college for when I was studying to be an electrician. Did a little electronics as part of the course. I treat most inductors as just big resistors. In the circuit for an old florescent tube circuit they have a big one we call a choke/ballast. Without it the current would just keep going up and up. Hence why you always find them burnt out when they fail.
Love the videos Steve! Please though, for the love of all things holy, do not plug unknown storage devices into what looks like your main PC!! There could have been ANYTHING on there.
An easy way to test inductors besides sweeping a frequency and measuring capacitance is to simply measure the DC internal resistance. It should be on the data sheet or in a range typical for that package and value. If it’s failed as a short like insulation burned off and now wires are touching it will be less than to spec.
I love the song the title hints at. Could of snuck a little clip as a head nod to such a game changer of a tune. So many covers im sure one would get by the copyright council.
Steve, thats a score if you can get the drive to work. Those 970 evos are super expensive. I haven't watched the whole video yet but you could try formatting the drive by plugging it straight into your pc and see if it works.
Retro Repairs for the win! Sometimes old school is the way forward. In fact I think you should fix all repairs going forward with lo-tech components. At least soldering them would be a lot easier... 🤣
@@StezStixFix Yeah, just Dremmel a "figure-8"-shaped hole/cutout through the PCB to accommodate the component in the middle, so it doesn't stick up too high beyond the front and back surfaces of the board😀. Taking "through-hole" to another level.
Check the voltage on the output side of the inductor with a volt meter or preferably a scope, prior to removal. Either would have been no volts or badly regulated. Still, your intuition is amazing and content always entertaining.
The "coil" you removed, did it test continuity using the ohms scale on the Mul-tim-et-ter... Since coils are nothing more than wire coiled up, sometimes around a core, you could even try some lacquered copper wire coils in its place... Just an idea.
I've got the same M.2 Enclosure, I run it with a Crucial P3 Plus SSD 1TB, worked like a charm for me, I guess I got a good unit, but with how much it costs I could expect a QC issue.
Also I think that inductor failed because it was too small. The wire inside was likely too thin for the current passing through it, which likely caused it to heat up too much causing the failure. Since inductors are generally used in timing circuits, this likely impacted the clock speed of the device, which mistimed the communication. Resulting in the error.
12:07 - In these types of scenarios I would have simply replaced the inductor with a strand of wire. Indeed you can make your own 2.2uH inductor with half dozen turns of insulated wire around an air core. But given 2.2uH is likely acting as a mere noise filter, the new levels of radiated noise you have added with those long component legs has probably introduced more noise than a simple strand of wire. Go back wind a few coils of wire and solder it in place then paint it with that goo you use.
tell me you know nothing about switching regulators.... if you replace that inductor with a strand of wire you will either destroy the circuit powered by that buck converter of if you're lucky then it just won't work. if it were a noise filter it would be a ferrite bead not an inductor.
Hi Steve the inductors are CD32 chip power inductors, they can be found on Amazon
geez, 100 count for 4 bucks
the plastic strip on the thermal pad needs to be removed to make contact with the heatsink, maybe this is why things got to hot..
I was going to say the same thing. Lol
jeez u so fast
That's exactly why. The drive overheated and blew that inductor out.
Came here to say that, the moment I saw that thermal pad I knew it would be overheating. Probably when copying data it'll get a lot hotter too.
Both of the pads still have the plastic too. Poor little drive never stood a chance.
Very nice catch. It just shows you that perseverence is worth it. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I was very very close to giving up but I knew there had to be something! Somewhere!
Not stupid if it works. Congrats on 175k subs my friend. We appreciate you.
You can test inductors with an LCR meter, with a bonus of being able to test capacitors and resistors ;)
I'm almost certain he has one, pretty sure he's used it in another video just to rest it out. If I remember correctly, a viewer sent it to him. Apparently he is not a big fan of it, because I'm not sure I have seen it since. Either that, or he forgets he has it when he has an opportunity to use it.
Needs to be a decent LCR meter with sub uH resolution: these 10 quid jobs on eBay not really up to it TBH.
Just a quick tip when handling storage units; Do not open them directly on your main computer. Get a sacrificial PC disconnected from your internet that you use to connect the storage unit to assess if they are safe. Thanks
Great job. Didn't think you would find the fault or fix it. Visual inspection is underrated.
I want to add something. If you get an SSD or USB drive from a customer you have to try any partition manager software (not Windows Disk Manager) if you find the entire drive unalocated of not initialized. For some reason, not using those drives for a while makes Windows not recognizing the partitions. You just have to refresh or rebuild them by just editing (ex. resizing) a partition via Aomei, MiniTool, Easus, etc. The old partitions are going to be visible just with external software. Assign letters to the partitions... Then the partitions are going to recover and show again, along the data. Very important, don't go too fast creating a partition!
Was coming to say a similar thing. Windows will show no data (even if there is) if it can't see partitions or recognise a format (NTFS etc) but data can still be there and obtainable. Creating a partition for windows to see will wipe that data.
Love Stezstix vids btw, honestly learn alot
10:55 If the windings on an inductor are shorted together, you will get continuity, but it will be faulty as it would be a low Ohm link rather than an inductor.
The best way to check them is with an LCR Meter, I have a couple made by Peal Electronics and one made by Megger.
There's a MEGGER B131 on Ebay now at £55 which is worth a punt.
A ESR meter may also give you an indication of the condition of an inductor by comparing the reading with a known inductor of the same value.
Impressed you went to the effort of fixing it! The benefits of it being a hobby for sure! I think if a customer came in and showed me that, once the Drive was proven to be OK I'd probably tell them my time alone would be more expensive than a replacement. I have the same UGREEN caddy as you, and im pretty sure they are about 15 quid with prime delivery haha!
I quite enjoyed this video, I would never have thought to tilt the board sideways to check for damage, very well done sir.
I Dunno why TH-cam recommend me this video. Watched this video through the end.
Your video makes it worth to be subscribed. Good job, nicely done the fix.
Good spot on the inductor, goes to show how important visual inspection is 🤩
love it... Im 62 and this is great to watch I still do this for fun...
I have the same drive caddy. I ran a raspberry pi on it for a couple of weeks. It stopped working and was always quite warm. I’m going to give it a look if I didn’t throw it out. Thanks for the video.
Amazing! I thought maybe that you weren't going to find a fix but you did it!
Thanks Stephen! Just about! 😊
Always remove the plastic sheets from thermal pads, that why it over heated and died. you thermally insulated it.
The guy had 100,000 bitcoins on the hard drive before you created a new volume
skill issue, just memorize the seed
Pretty sure the volume wasn't initialized, but I also thought he skipped a step by creating a volume without checking if the SSD was working.
he probably knew there was nothing worth on the drive. Also, creating a new partition doesn't remove the data entirely but yea, you're right.
Heat Shrink tubing helps when doing such mods. Thanks for the video.
Am I the only one that would enjoy Steve's songs as a playlist?
Just as a public service announcement, you should never ever plug an unknown storage device with unknown origins into your computer.
exactly! I was expecting the pop up error message to read "all you base belong to us"
To be fair this was a Patreon member so not exactly unknown.
@@darkstatehk * "All your base ARE belong to us"
...sorry
@@theoldtechhandheldtinkerer4092 You got the meaning, that's all that matters :))
@@michaelstanley5215honestly anyone can be a patron though always be safe online!
Excellent repair, I especially like how you improved the design of the PCB, so if the coil fails Again in the future you'll be able to see a visible clue when it melts the plastic casing.
that coil will definitely fail as the current rating of those green axial inductors is way too low.
Hi Steve, stumbled across your channel and super impressed. Loving your work and keep it going fella! 👏
Well done Steve a tricky and fiddly repair.
I'm honestly proud of you on this one. Great work.
This video was a joy to watch. Yes I've had my nightly greens. Also did not expect the SOLID bars at the end. 11/10
Use an LCR Meter for the coil. You could even Diy one. There are a lot of diy solutions out there and it's probably also entertaining.
Wow. How rewarding that must be. I kinda miss the fireworks tho like when I do I repair. If my dog doesn't go running out the room when I plug it in, then I didnt fix it bad enough. One of these days ima get it. I wish I could find an obvious fault like a single burnt inductor, but seems mine are always absolutey pristine or half the board is charred. I'm gonna take a closer look at tge inductor on my caddy tho..nice, pleasant to watch video.
Oh snap! nice catch!! I think I would have missed that one, and I definitely would not have had an inductor that would have fit. Awesome video!
That is very interesting indeed. I had never thought of that until you tried it out. Now I know and others will also. Thank you for that.
So glad I watched that all the way through.. Well done :)
Thanks Banxy! ❤
Great video, all I seem to be doing these days is watching your videos. My misses laughs at me when I say along with you your sayings. Thanks.
SMD components that have broken due to shock may be cracked, when touched with a measuring tool (e.g. with a small touch (pressing the spot), when cool) it gives the correct reading, but e.g. with a different temperature (expansion/shrinkage/shift) or without touching, the crack is open. And then an anomaly occurs. That is, it is always worth trying to measure the component without affecting the component (as far away from the contact/component as possible, so that the touch does not move the component or the component's solder)
This small original inductor may have been intact, but it was originally poorly soldered (because its thermal mass was larger and this was not taken into account, like other SMD components), poor connection (with normal user movement/vibration/shocks) but the solder came loose and the contact was sometimes there and sometimes not (radiating heat when using the battery, i.e. thermal stress moved/bent the component, the poor connection opened and started to crackle (high resistance on a small contact surface/crack and high heat, creating carbon on top of everything, i.e. like crackling when moving loose wires together and apart during voltage and resistance)
Your videos are so SOLID. Keep up the good work
Really nice fix Steve. love the ingenuity 😃 And another day back on the "calendar".
Hey Stez the coil on the switch next to the BQ chip is a 2R2 coil.
Good Job Stevie 👏 love your work man, ive watched all of your repair videos over the last 6 months and ive learnt a shitload from you, love your realistic videos- keep it up bro, when you upload a new vid it makes my day driving in the van all day
You are a great inspiration in these buy and throw away times - Greetings from Sweden
Nice job Steve , shows you how taking a second look from a different perspective works both literally and figuratively! Well done ! 👍 Get In !
Abandoning an expensive SSD without en trying a different case seems bizarre to me! Good content and a trophy for the channel though so who’s complaining. Perhaps offer it back?
Again an amazing fix. I really love these repairs!
Amazing! I have the exact same code on my lugg.... ehr, the same SSD carrier bought on Ama*** with the same style error. I now will proceed to put it on my desk next to my microscope and forget about it for at least 14 months. I might just remember to give it a one start review since this is clearly a problem for several (if not most?) of them.
Nice Phatt Island wallpaper!
Nice find, I think I would have missed that. Really enjoyed this one.
Hello from mexico steve thank you for your videos, just got started on electronics, learning alot from you ... Thanks man
Love the Enya reference in the thumbnail.
EXCELLENTY WORK!! I have a drive that does the EXACT SAME THING!!!! I think I'm gonna have to take a look at the board now :D
TYVM!
Keep us updated
When checking drives, you could also test slow-formatting the drive, then filling it up full, then checking the checksums. Often drives fail later like that, even if the volume shows up in explorer. Especially flash drives often fail.
Well done Steve, great catch there I wouldn’t of noticed it 😊
Probably the best technician in the world
Another fantastic video, and to think you nearly missed it - that could have been a very short video! 😂
Yeah, this could easily have been a big fat (short) fail 😅
nice repair captain bodge 👏
What? No 2 second rap at 4:30??? 😄 I really do love your videos and have learned quite a bit. I am testing my skills with a mini USB UPS repair for a camera.
Watching a man throw caution to the wind with a plug in device that doesn’t work from someone else’s computer. Love it. Phishing usb stick anyone? Another great video. ❤
Doesn't everyone disable autorun? Shouldn't be a problem then.
Sorry for my late reply I was just responding to a nice sounding disadvantaged millionaire from Nigeria. He needs my help. 😊
To be fair, seems a lot less likely that a long term Patreon supporter would do something nefarious.
@@oliverer3Never doubted the patrion. Just a bit of humour. We all need to smile 😊
Let's forget the humour and potential malicious content for a moment. A shorted out USB device could damage a PC. So in a way he did throw caution to the wind.
I quite like the repair it looks retro well done Steve 😊
Good fix. I wouldn’t have noticed that inductor was blown.
Get in there! Results! Great video Steve
Inductor size is roughly a measure of its amp capacity. Your replacement set is apparently beefier than what comes off the average board. Order some of a smaller amp capacity to get smaller sizes. You can also measure the mm distance between contacts as well as the width of the contacts, concatenate the numbers together, and that's the footprint number.
A brilliant fix, It must be so satisfying.
I just want to say I love your vids and don't miss a single one! Cheers Mate
Love the monkey island wallpaper, or am I wrong ?
That's what I thought too! (I loved Monkey Island!....might still be wrong though)
yes, it is Monkey Island
It's the new one, Return to Monkey Island! Very nice game, really captured the vibe of the originals too. Highly recommended!
@@spideybra Looks like the MI2 remake to me, but maybe Phatt Island comes back in the new one? I haven't played it yet.
Inductors are coils of wire so usually have very low resistance but can either go O/C no reading or shorted turns so still very low resistance but difficult to tell if faulty. Need an inductance meter or LCR meter to verify - cheap ones on Amazon for just over £20. Correct it doesn't matter which way around they go. Only matters for transformers - also coils of wire. I hate those type of caddies because even if the heat pads take the heat away from the chips there is nowhere for it to go. Good spot on the inductor!!
Once I had a problem with a document scanner that had a connection that was causing it to connect and disconnect repeatedly (annoyingly causing windows to make the sounds associated). I just got some quick drying electronics contact cleaner and gave the port on the scanner a very quick and short shot and the USB cable end that plugs into it. It worked really well. Just make sure that it is plastic safe and won't melt plastics. Also the stuff I used is not conductive but despite that I allowed it 15 minutes to dry. A fan or spot with a good breeze would have had this stuff dry long before the 15 minutes but without power to the cable I plugged it in a couple times while it was still wet with the cleaner and that may have helped it some. Just if there is a chance that some of the stuff can get in the case don't soak it, a quick shot is all it takes. If you use too much it may take a much longer time to dry and if it is not non conductive that can be bad. If you don't need it right away you can let it dry overnight if you want to be safe. I only did this because I did not want to buy a new scanner. There is no point in throwing it out if you can get it working again.
Superb. Perfectly personalized.
This is proof that the retro is not dead!😂😂😂 I love how you resolve this👍
inductors I never had much experience with at college for when I was studying to be an electrician. Did a little electronics as part of the course. I treat most inductors as just big resistors. In the circuit for an old florescent tube circuit they have a big one we call a choke/ballast. Without it the current would just keep going up and up. Hence why you always find them burnt out when they fail.
Awesome fix! Great stuff 👏
Love the videos Steve! Please though, for the love of all things holy, do not plug unknown storage devices into what looks like your main PC!! There could have been ANYTHING on there.
Nothing beats my Sunday fix!
Great fix Steve!
Subbed after the lvl 99 revitiv test
You really have balls ... I would tested this without the SSD first 😁
Nice find, well done!
That was fun to watch. Well done
This is your best video yet... Thanks.
An easy way to test inductors besides sweeping a frequency and measuring capacitance is to simply measure the DC internal resistance. It should be on the data sheet or in a range typical for that package and value. If it’s failed as a short like insulation burned off and now wires are touching it will be less than to spec.
Amazing, for a moment i thought it was a no fix. I have never seen a burned inductor, at least not an smd one.
Never fail to amuse us Steve 😂👍
I love the song the title hints at. Could of snuck a little clip as a head nod to such a game changer of a tune. So many covers im sure one would get by the copyright council.
Well done, great repair
Steve, thats a score if you can get the drive to work. Those 970 evos are super expensive. I haven't watched the whole video yet but you could try formatting the drive by plugging it straight into your pc and see if it works.
Retro Repairs for the win! Sometimes old school is the way forward. In fact I think you should fix all repairs going forward with lo-tech components. At least soldering them would be a lot easier... 🤣
I like it! Who needs those newfangled surface mount components anyway! 😂
@@StezStixFix Yeah, just Dremmel a "figure-8"-shaped hole/cutout through the PCB to accommodate the component in the middle, so it doesn't stick up too high beyond the front and back surfaces of the board😀. Taking "through-hole" to another level.
Nice repair! love that Monkey Island wallpaper thing... :)
Nice find. Good job...
Check the voltage on the output side of the inductor with a volt meter or preferably a scope, prior to removal. Either would have been no volts or badly regulated. Still, your intuition is amazing and content always entertaining.
Quality repair 👍
I'm Guybrush Threepwood, mighty pirate!
I am rubber, you are glue.
Look behind you, a three headed monkey!
@MizuhoChan "oh, that is so clichè" damn its been a while! 😅
"you're a failure as a pirate"
Frankenstein fix, that's what like to see, well done dude. It's the way. lol
Hey guys can you see that green airship over our city? Nice job Steve and very 🤣
Lots of M2 caddy like this failure are caused by heat - If possible people should always go for the with fan and full metal case for cooling
How nice, a rap I can skip because it dosen't overlay my favourite part of any repair, the disassembly! MOAR PLEASE Steve! (also, excellent work!)
The "coil" you removed, did it test continuity using the ohms scale on the Mul-tim-et-ter... Since coils are nothing more than wire coiled up, sometimes around a core, you could even try some lacquered copper wire coils in its place... Just an idea.
Great win !!! Thanks for great content
Great workaround!
Nice fix S.
I've got the same M.2 Enclosure, I run it with a Crucial P3 Plus SSD 1TB, worked like a charm for me, I guess I got a good unit, but with how much it costs I could expect a QC issue.
To test an inductor you use resistance I think, each one will have a range, not sure but seeing as it is a wire wound it would have some?
You can test inductors with a LRC meter.
It will give you tge value of the inductor, and you can verify the value is in range.
Also I think that inductor failed because it was too small. The wire inside was likely too thin for the current passing through it, which likely caused it to heat up too much causing the failure.
Since inductors are generally used in timing circuits, this likely impacted the clock speed of the device, which mistimed the communication. Resulting in the error.
Nice work , ive tried to find them 2R2s before to there like impossible to find in that size or they cost a arm and a leg for like 5 of them
12:07 - In these types of scenarios I would have simply replaced the inductor with a strand of wire. Indeed you can make your own 2.2uH inductor with half dozen turns of insulated wire around an air core. But given 2.2uH is likely acting as a mere noise filter, the new levels of radiated noise you have added with those long component legs has probably introduced more noise than a simple strand of wire. Go back wind a few coils of wire and solder it in place then paint it with that goo you use.
tell me you know nothing about switching regulators.... if you replace that inductor with a strand of wire you will either destroy the circuit powered by that buck converter of if you're lucky then it just won't work. if it were a noise filter it would be a ferrite bead not an inductor.
I like your repairs. Greetings from Berlin