Ryan from Blaze here. Fan of the channel for a while, never thought in a million years I would see something I headed up development on end up here! Fun fact, this is the first time I’ve heard this happen as these are generally pretty solid out the factory. Gives me something to look at next week 😅 Hope you enjoy the system!
Hey Steve! Love the content! If you check the datasheet for the Rockchip RK805 you’ll see that the four coils are 0.47 mH / 2a or 3a. Data sheets are great!
Was cool seeing an actual hardware repair to a VS! Just so you know, a flashing yellow light means "No HDMI connected" and the system waits until you plug one in. Should you do so while it's flashing yellow, the system will resume booting as soon as it detects the connection. As for it locking up at different colors (blue & purple), the rainbow flash during startup is scripted to just cycle thru a series of preset colors until the OS is ready and then it stops and settles on red. This can mean the color that it stops on during a boot failure is random luck based on the moment it time the freeze occurs. Another "light code" is maskrom mode for flashing the device. This is invoked by holding the reset button while powering on which gives you a single white LED flash then no LED (and no video if HDMI is plugged in). You can repair corrupt software flashes from this mode. As a side not it will only enter maskrom mode if connected to a PC using a data-capable micro usb cable (the original VS usb cable is not data-capable).
A nice trick for your thermal camera - you can buy special thermally transparent lenses for laser cutters for ~$20, something around 50mm focal length 20mm diameter one, just find a way to fasten it to the front of your thermal camera and you'll be able to see SO much more detail on close up board inspection! I had a shorted circuit causing an overheat shutdown and the chip was turning itself on for like 100ms before turning off again, and I could see the shorted power trace heat up and cool off like a heartbeat/blood vessel, blew my mind 😂
I always forget how small these components are because you always have them under the microscope. When it's on your finger, it really puts into perspective how small these things are and also how good you must be to fix these so effortlessly! Great vid, as always.
Another ace video, regarding your ending bit about how tiny the problematic component was, it's really quite amazing that such small, and often parts that cost less than a $ or £ can take down something. I've fixed PlayStation 5 consoles that were downed by a component that I could buy for £0.50, and we can safely assume Sony were getting them much cheaper in bulk, really irritating to think something worth over £500 was downed by something so small & cheap!
As far as I understand, both the copper coil and the ferrite are affected by temperature. The hotter copper gets, the higher its resistance. And the hotter the ferrite gets, the weaker its magnetic field gets. Physical damage can also weaken the conductivity and inductance of an inductor. A failed inductor is less capable at blocking AC noise, and might not be as good at blocking in-rush current. But mainly, it’s the AC noise that will cause the most problems for chips, as IC chips expect clean power, and any AC noise can cause disruptions in its internal circuitry. A capacitor, in contrast, is useful to protect against voltage spikes, but it’s also good for filtering out DC current, allowing AC current signals to pass through unimpeded. A failed capacitor can exhibit a complete dead short from signal line straight to ground (but it can also act like it doesn’t exist, not exhibiting a dead short but also not filtering DC current and stopping voltage spikes). One major difference between the two archetypes of components is that an inductor is often placed inline with the power rail, while a capacitor is often placed between the signal line and ground. That’s the reason why a failed inductor can cause instabilities (but not direct shorts to ground), while a failed capacitor can cause direct shorts to ground (but seldom instabilities). PS: The reason the multimeter shows a dead short on an inductor is because the inductor has far too short a response time to really see its current limiting capabilities. You’ll need an oscilloscope to be able to see the resistance curve as current attempts to pass through it. Remember: an inductor doesn’t resist current throughput per se, it resists *changes* in current throughput. At constant current, the coil acts like a dead short, but an increase in current will lead to an increase in resistance (but this resistance goes down as current starts to pass through). A *decrease* in current leads to a reverse resistance, preventing the current from going down instantly (though this reverse resistance will also go down as current throughput slows down). *There’s a reason why an inductor is also called a “choke”.*
Inductive Reactance of a coil depends on the frequency of the applied voltage as reactance is directly proportional to frequency. Inductive reactance is the property of an inductive coil that resists the change in alternating current (AC) through it and is similar to the opposition to direct current (DC) in a resistance. DC Theory and AC Theory are very different and should not be confused !
Thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose a fault in a 12v tv/dvd I was given recently - the power had been connected the wrong way round and I eventually found a blown-out power regulator chip. Yay! The downside is, it's too small for me to replace it. Stupid telly.
Did not expect such an inductor to fail! If it would be open circuit it would do the same as when you took it out(nothing) and if it would be shorted it wouldn't heat up. So most likely the wires in the inductor are partly shorted, creating a very low inductance (low uH) coil. This would also explain why it would turn hot because the coil would get completely saturated and start dissipating heat (good thing that rk805 didn't blow)
Great job! I bet that inductor was faulty right out of the factory. It seems that a lot of manufacturers are cheaping out on components; I guess it doesn't affect them, since someone else eats the cost of the defective unit.
Your style of editing leave lots of space and realistic pauses, in the video (with flourishes in the edit of course). Which is refreshing from videos that cut every silent second of air time and have hyper accelerated editing styles. It's nice to see how... slow.. real life is. Makes us understand how to solve real issues and how slow it really is. Even when you fast-forward, that gives me a better idea of time passage than a jump cut that most TH-camrs would do. Never seen this channel before but I'll have to see more.
A good LCR meter can measure those. Usually these inductors have a flat enamel coated wire wrapped around the core and if the enamel breaks down from excessive heat the coil will literally be a short circuit rather than an inductor.
Haha, sorry about that Tidder! It's a great console though, I've had a play around with it and there's something special about using physical cartridges and supporting the original developers. It's an experience that isn't matched by any Raspberry Pi or similar!
I LOVE all your videos. I'm learning how to fix Electronic stuff, and I just got the same Blue pad as yours and a new soldering station. Thank you SO MUCH!! You are teaching me so much new stuff. I loved it when you said "I wish I knew more stuff".
Not sure why a coil would get super hot without something downstream short circuiting. I would have thought a replacement would get hot too. Very strange. Hats off to you, I would not have replaced it without hunting for something else causing the current drain. YOU ARE THE WINNER. 👍
Mate your absolutely mint to watch and so genuine and natural in front of the camera nobody was more pleased than me to see that boot up ! Have faith in yourself brother cos every time you say " I'm not gonna be able to fix it" we all know you can your train of thinking and problem solving is truly amazing to witness so simple yet so logical even dumb asses like me can understand and using a thermal camera to solve a problem blows my mind keep up the good work from your new subscriber 👍
I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎
Shorted turns on the coil, most likely. Good fix. I used your tequniques to fix an Auraglow dimmable bulb. I eventually spotted the discoloured ceramic cap (shorted) and chopped it out. Works fine, maybe a bit more RF interference. I 'reasoned' that if I replaced the cap, it would just blow again, so thanks Steve. Steve.
Definitely! Thermo-cam has come to the rescue on numerous occassions. I guess you could use IPA and see what burns off, but there's something satisfying about seeing the heat spots! 👍
Well done on the fix, It is quite shocking that such a small component can take out an entire system BTW, the light bar on the front of the machine does actually give you some indication of what the console is doing (and any issues it has) When booting it will cycle through a number of colours (you can see yours doing this a few times in the video) The Yellow flashing light it ended up on when you powered it up after replacing the component was just telling you there was no HDMI Connected, When running correctly it should flash a few colours then end up on red, Andy
I love the excitement you have every time something works after you fix it.
ปีที่แล้ว +1
DEar sir, I really like your channel specially the rap part which always makes me smile and I find it so endearing. Sending you my respect and admiration from COlombia!
I find it best to pick up SMDs with a dab of flux of the tweezers and try to never squeeze the part between the tweezers unless required. I love the way you stumble along with great success in the end. You make it easy for us less skilled to know it can be done with success even when we lack confidence.
very nice fix, was wondering if the issue would be found without a therm. cam. also looked like a good game library on that cartridge, well done fixing it.
You can use alcohol to see if something is heating up too much as it'll evaporate quicker. Also just physically touching components to see what heats up is an option. 46c is definitely going to be noticeably warm!
So I don't know if someone mentioned this in the comments but what happened with that coil is that it either it got too hot and melted the enamel coating causing shorted wraps or it was some factory defect that weakened the coating. When you get shorted turns in a inductor you basically get a smaller dead short(in terms of physical size) which means that the amperage coming through will cause it to burn. It also can negatively impact inductance which typically isn't as big of a deal as shorted turns burning.(or just going open which you checked for)
Must say my old pc repairing mind went straight to thinking the boot rom was fudged in some way kind of surprises me it was what I'm guessing was an inductor.
Your surprise and happiness every time you fix something you've guessed at the problem for is worth the price of admission alone :D Great vid, keep learning and discovering!
Glad you finally found a game that is just stupid. Thank you for inspiring me to just pull stuff apart again instead of just chucking it out. LED lights fixed already. Great work Steve, great content too. Nice.
ปีที่แล้ว +2
Nice one, Steve! "Easy" fix, but excellent troubleshooting. And Yuri Nator, I love your pseudo!
@15:50 A Coil serves a purpose. A coil can go bad and become internally short instead of open. Even though it shows continuity between it's two contacts its no longer functioning as a coil and is now just a short between two points.
You might've thought you didn't know what you were doing but to me it looked like you did it exactly how it should be done. Hope you gained some self belief after this success.
I don't think I've ever seen a rapping patron shoutout disassembly sequence before, so kudoz for doing things in the medium and also tricking me into hearing all the patron names!
When steve says "i don't know what to do" i know the video is going to be interesting 😁, thanks Steve all of your videos are actually interesting and i really like your content 🇹🇳💓
I think the coil in question was overheating because of unusual resistance. It was behaving like a heating element. Nice job replacing the offending coil. All good wishes!
Steve you got that thing man xdd Never seen a coil shorting a line. I dont even think thats what happened, but the replacement worked. I was taught that as long as a coil has continuity it is good. Today you proved them wrong. Keep it up to them 100k!
Hi Steve, love your videos, think! Simple coils are sort of like little transformers, the windings can short, hence the overheating. The coil has wire that is insulated and that is their weakness. That insulation can become damaged due heat or just wear. Seen it many times over the years and often times it's a struggle to troubleshoot. As you think, well it has continuity it should be fine but as you saw just because it is connected does not mean it's okay. Yep, coils short just like transformers. Little Coils, Little Transformers, Not the same but are the same. Simple way of looking at it.
There are some really nice small test meters from PEAK Specifically an LCR meter if you were interested in being able to measure passive components in the future 😊
That's the second time I've seen you pull out that neat little heat meter . . . thing. Very handy for just this sort of job (and the other one I watched). I jotted down the make and model. Bought the amp/volt meter you use because it seems more flexible than the one I have. I think I have a little device that you attach components to and it tells you its value. So in this instance, removing one of the other coils and measuring it would be one way to go. What I really like is your methods and thinking are in many ways like my own and because you are lets be honest enough times to make it worth while, this shows me that I am using a realistic logic path when repair mystery issues . . . most times. It is a percentage game tho, no doubt there.
An inductor, also called a coil, choke, or reactor, is a passive two-terminal electrical component that stores energy in a magnetic field when electric current flows through it.[1] An inductor typically consists of an insulated wire wound into a coil. All electrical components are either coils, capacitors, resistors or transistors
I have one of these. The flashing light means boot up. And it goes solid when it’s found a hdmi tv signal. Awesome console though. And that little component failing causing that problem wow
its great how you show us how you think to work through things in your mind on the fixing of these things , your teaching skill are fabulous thank you very much
Youve build up a lot of convidence in me, so i decided to have a look at my faulty DS1815+… its now working again, after some failed soldering 😅 thank you, keep up the work
Did you ever figure out if that coil replacement was the same as the original? I'm curious of the other two coils on the donor switch would have worked to.
If a coil is getting hot, it must be passing a lot more current than it was designed to do. First thing to check would be resistance to ground on the "downstream" side of the coil. I am paused at 13:33 so maybe you found something already :-) The coil itself could have a shorted winding.
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Stupid Blaze Evercade VS or Versus
Great video in your own style, as expected. Soon to be 100k subs. You must be excited !
thing.
Probably "V.S." I'm guessing it stands for "virtual system" or "videogame system", since it's an emulator.
Mc crapvoice. Nice.
Stupid Coil
Ryan from Blaze here. Fan of the channel for a while, never thought in a million years I would see something I headed up development on end up here!
Fun fact, this is the first time I’ve heard this happen as these are generally pretty solid out the factory. Gives me something to look at next week 😅
Hope you enjoy the system!
Oh. VS has three meanings, we left it ambiguous so people would debate about it! Vee Ess, Video System and Versus.
@@ryanblaze9611 Lets go old school with the interpretation. It means Viper Scorpion! man, I loved old naming conventions :D
@@ryanblaze9611 I'd prefer Viewing Schematics. 😁
I reckon it's worthy of sending another controller and game cartridge over to him 😉
I’ve heard of these freezing up from a bunch of people. Google evercade vs freezing
Hey Steve! Love the content! If you check the datasheet for the Rockchip RK805 you’ll see that the four coils are 0.47 mH / 2a or 3a. Data sheets are great!
A follow up video required for sure!
I think you meant micro Henries or very small Henries.
@@stevehead365 I believe they prefer to be called Little Henries.
@@olepigeon Hals, in other words.
@@olepigeon Lil Henryz
"A winner is you. Me?" Bro, you had my daughter and I cracking up!
"I don't know what to do, because I don't know what I'm doing" 😹 I need that printed on a t-shirt. Great vid. Cheers
Was cool seeing an actual hardware repair to a VS! Just so you know, a flashing yellow light means "No HDMI connected" and the system waits until you plug one in. Should you do so while it's flashing yellow, the system will resume booting as soon as it detects the connection. As for it locking up at different colors (blue & purple), the rainbow flash during startup is scripted to just cycle thru a series of preset colors until the OS is ready and then it stops and settles on red. This can mean the color that it stops on during a boot failure is random luck based on the moment it time the freeze occurs. Another "light code" is maskrom mode for flashing the device. This is invoked by holding the reset button while powering on which gives you a single white LED flash then no LED (and no video if HDMI is plugged in). You can repair corrupt software flashes from this mode. As a side not it will only enter maskrom mode if connected to a PC using a data-capable micro usb cable (the original VS usb cable is not data-capable).
A nice trick for your thermal camera - you can buy special thermally transparent lenses for laser cutters for ~$20, something around 50mm focal length 20mm diameter one, just find a way to fasten it to the front of your thermal camera and you'll be able to see SO much more detail on close up board inspection!
I had a shorted circuit causing an overheat shutdown and the chip was turning itself on for like 100ms before turning off again, and I could see the shorted power trace heat up and cool off like a heartbeat/blood vessel, blew my mind 😂
This has to be top tip of the week.
The joy of watching your reaction to a successful repair is why I keep coming back! Thanks for repairing the world one electronic device at a time!
I watch solely to hear this man yell "GET IN"
@@wingusdingus1019 me too!!!!!
I always forget how small these components are because you always have them under the microscope. When it's on your finger, it really puts into perspective how small these things are and also how good you must be to fix these so effortlessly! Great vid, as always.
Another ace video, regarding your ending bit about how tiny the problematic component was, it's really quite amazing that such small, and often parts that cost less than a $ or £ can take down something. I've fixed PlayStation 5 consoles that were downed by a component that I could buy for £0.50, and we can safely assume Sony were getting them much cheaper in bulk, really irritating to think something worth over £500 was downed by something so small & cheap!
Definitely. It happens far too often! Really satisfying to find the tiny faults and get them going again though! 😊
This is why companies being open with information about their products and less proprietary components are key to a healthy electronic future.
It didn't help that they were putting capacitors on at the factory with the wrong mf for that circuit because of a chip shortage
Its ironic really the more advance things get the easier they often break.
0.005£
As far as I understand, both the copper coil and the ferrite are affected by temperature.
The hotter copper gets, the higher its resistance. And the hotter the ferrite gets, the weaker its magnetic field gets. Physical damage can also weaken the conductivity and inductance of an inductor.
A failed inductor is less capable at blocking AC noise, and might not be as good at blocking in-rush current. But mainly, it’s the AC noise that will cause the most problems for chips, as IC chips expect clean power, and any AC noise can cause disruptions in its internal circuitry.
A capacitor, in contrast, is useful to protect against voltage spikes, but it’s also good for filtering out DC current, allowing AC current signals to pass through unimpeded. A failed capacitor can exhibit a complete dead short from signal line straight to ground (but it can also act like it doesn’t exist, not exhibiting a dead short but also not filtering DC current and stopping voltage spikes).
One major difference between the two archetypes of components is that an inductor is often placed inline with the power rail, while a capacitor is often placed between the signal line and ground.
That’s the reason why a failed inductor can cause instabilities (but not direct shorts to ground), while a failed capacitor can cause direct shorts to ground (but seldom instabilities).
PS: The reason the multimeter shows a dead short on an inductor is because the inductor has far too short a response time to really see its current limiting capabilities. You’ll need an oscilloscope to be able to see the resistance curve as current attempts to pass through it.
Remember: an inductor doesn’t resist current throughput per se, it resists *changes* in current throughput. At constant current, the coil acts like a dead short, but an increase in current will lead to an increase in resistance (but this resistance goes down as current starts to pass through). A *decrease* in current leads to a reverse resistance, preventing the current from going down instantly (though this reverse resistance will also go down as current throughput slows down). *There’s a reason why an inductor is also called a “choke”.*
I would say too long didn't read about this was worth reading 😂
Thanks, brilliant comment.
Inductive Reactance of a coil depends on the frequency of the applied voltage as reactance is directly proportional to frequency. Inductive reactance is the property of an inductive coil that resists the change in alternating current (AC) through it and is similar to the opposition to direct current (DC) in a resistance. DC Theory and AC Theory are very different and should not be confused !
I'm surprised you didn't spot the coil at 17:15 looked like a perfect match, but glad you got it working regardless.
and it had a spot on it which he said it didnt.maybe needs new specs
I was thinking the exact same thing, looked like the same coil, perfect match.
Same, they were the exact same shape!
@@joebloggs3358 it looks more of a flaw on the surface than a spot
Awesome job Steve. I won't lie. I was 75% hoping you would fix it and 25% hoping that would blow up
Thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose a fault in a 12v tv/dvd I was given recently - the power had been connected the wrong way round and I eventually found a blown-out power regulator chip. Yay! The downside is, it's too small for me to replace it.
Stupid telly.
Great fix Steve, unusual fault as well. Really interesting 👍
Did not expect such an inductor to fail! If it would be open circuit it would do the same as when you took it out(nothing) and if it would be shorted it wouldn't heat up. So most likely the wires in the inductor are partly shorted, creating a very low inductance (low uH) coil. This would also explain why it would turn hot because the coil would get completely saturated and start dissipating heat (good thing that rk805 didn't blow)
There's just somthing so relaxing about watching electrinic repairs
Things I learn today... that thing is called a coil and can burn out. Nice repair Steve.
apparently also called an inductor. i'm gonna use it to sound like an expert heeheehee
Which is more satisfying - seeing it work or hearing Steve celebrate with “get in!”? The world may never know.
I'd buy a "Get in!" T-Shirt any day of the week.
Thank you for recording your face expression as you turned it on after changing the component and connecting it to the monitor - priceless 😁
Great job! I bet that inductor was faulty right out of the factory. It seems that a lot of manufacturers are cheaping out on components; I guess it doesn't affect them, since someone else eats the cost of the defective unit.
I'm going to buy a thermal camera even though I have no use for it, and bask in the heat of Steve's success.
Your style of editing leave lots of space and realistic pauses, in the video (with flourishes in the edit of course). Which is refreshing from videos that cut every silent second of air time and have hyper accelerated editing styles.
It's nice to see how... slow.. real life is. Makes us understand how to solve real issues and how slow it really is. Even when you fast-forward, that gives me a better idea of time passage than a jump cut that most TH-camrs would do.
Never seen this channel before but I'll have to see more.
I hate how other TH-camrs edit parts out etc. You're going too fast, we want to see and understand the whole process!
Me screaming at the video "CHECK THE DATASHEET STEVE" for the chip and itll tell you the coil and... then i realise the video is a year old lol
A good LCR meter can measure those. Usually these inductors have a flat enamel coated wire wrapped around the core and if the enamel breaks down from excessive heat the coil will literally be a short circuit rather than an inductor.
Very nice! Love these vids. I'd never even heard of this device, now I definitely need one.
Haha, sorry about that Tidder! It's a great console though, I've had a play around with it and there's something special about using physical cartridges and supporting the original developers. It's an experience that isn't matched by any Raspberry Pi or similar!
@@StezStixFix You say that, but I have a raspberry pi that can take gameboy cartridges :)
I love watching people win after applying their skills and brains. Congratulation on a job well done.
I LOVE all your videos. I'm learning how to fix Electronic stuff, and I just got the same Blue pad as yours and a new soldering station. Thank you SO MUCH!! You are teaching me so much new stuff. I loved it when you said "I wish I knew more stuff".
Not sure why a coil would get super hot without something downstream short circuiting. I would have thought a replacement would get hot too. Very strange. Hats off to you, I would not have replaced it without hunting for something else causing the current drain. YOU ARE THE WINNER. 👍
the best bit is when ever Ste fixes anything and his face lights up :D
well done bud.
Mate your absolutely mint to watch and so genuine and natural in front of the camera nobody was more pleased than me to see that boot up ! Have faith in yourself brother cos every time you say
" I'm not gonna be able to fix it" we all know you can your train of thinking and problem solving is truly amazing to witness so simple yet so logical even dumb asses like me can understand and using a thermal camera to solve a problem blows my mind keep up the good work from your new subscriber 👍
I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎
I like how you just say you don't know rather than trying to bs it.
A faulty coil, wow! Now that’s bloody rare and not something I would’ve thought about. Well done!!!
Shorted turns on the coil, most likely. Good fix. I used your tequniques to fix an Auraglow dimmable bulb. I eventually spotted the discoloured ceramic cap (shorted) and chopped it out. Works fine, maybe a bit more RF interference. I 'reasoned' that if I replaced the cap, it would just blow again, so thanks Steve. Steve.
Thermo-cam saves the day! going to have to get me one of those!
Definitely! Thermo-cam has come to the rescue on numerous occassions. I guess you could use IPA and see what burns off, but there's something satisfying about seeing the heat spots! 👍
Inductors are a pain in the ass to troubleshoot, great catch!
Well done on the fix,
It is quite shocking that such a small component can take out an entire system
BTW, the light bar on the front of the machine does actually give you some indication of what the console is doing (and any issues it has)
When booting it will cycle through a number of colours (you can see yours doing this a few times in the video)
The Yellow flashing light it ended up on when you powered it up after replacing the component was just telling you there was no HDMI Connected,
When running correctly it should flash a few colours then end up on red,
Andy
I love the excitement you have every time something works after you fix it.
DEar sir, I really like your channel specially the rap part which always makes me smile and I find it so endearing. Sending you my respect and admiration from COlombia!
Damn, this was a really hard repair, never thinked that an inductor could be the problem. Cheers, Steve :)
I find it best to pick up SMDs with a dab of flux of the tweezers and try to never squeeze the part between the tweezers unless required. I love the way you stumble along with great success in the end. You make it easy for us less skilled to know it can be done with success even when we lack confidence.
6:10 i like the 2 pieces of metal in the bottom of the casing to make it seem heavier.. an engineering must.
Love the addition of the live split screen Steve reaction when this worked
My tarantula started drumming her enclosure as soon as your rap started and ended, good timing. We both really enjoyed it!
Hail mary shot in the last seconds before the buzzer. Amazing.
I love that you instantly went to the A Winner Is You silkscreen under the microscope :D
I love the "It Works!" feeling!
Amazing fix.. congratulations and welcome to the Evercade Club!
very nice fix, was wondering if the issue would be found without a therm. cam.
also looked like a good game library on that cartridge, well done fixing it.
You can use alcohol to see if something is heating up too much as it'll evaporate quicker. Also just physically touching components to see what heats up is an option. 46c is definitely going to be noticeably warm!
So I don't know if someone mentioned this in the comments but what happened with that coil is that it either it got too hot and melted the enamel coating causing shorted wraps or it was some factory defect that weakened the coating. When you get shorted turns in a inductor you basically get a smaller dead short(in terms of physical size) which means that the amperage coming through will cause it to burn. It also can negatively impact inductance which typically isn't as big of a deal as shorted turns burning.(or just going open which you checked for)
Amazing Steve, love this type of trail and error repairs. love the way you fixed it with parts from a broken switch. great content
So I’m sat here in hospital with chronic lung disease laughing my head off…. Keep it coming
Must say my old pc repairing mind went straight to thinking the boot rom was fudged in some way kind of surprises me it was what I'm guessing was an inductor.
That thermal camera is so useful i must look into getting one
Your surprise and happiness every time you fix something you've guessed at the problem for is worth the price of admission alone :D Great vid, keep learning and discovering!
A remarkable fix, never thought for a minute replacing the inductor would fix it.
Great ingenuity and was lucky you recalled the switch having similar parts.
Glad you finally found a game that is just stupid. Thank you for inspiring me to just pull stuff apart again instead of just chucking it out. LED lights fixed already. Great work Steve, great content too. Nice.
Nice one, Steve! "Easy" fix, but excellent troubleshooting.
And Yuri Nator, I love your pseudo!
Thanks Fred! This was a super satisfying fix! 😁
@15:50 A Coil serves a purpose. A coil can go bad and become internally short instead of open. Even though it shows continuity between it's two contacts its no longer functioning as a coil and is now just a short between two points.
I was legitimately as happy as you were when you fixed it. Well done mate 😎👍
I’ve only seen the pics of one. But this vid puts the console in a better light so to speak. It’s very cute, love the power on RGB nice and subtle.
You might've thought you didn't know what you were doing but to me it looked like you did it exactly how it should be done. Hope you gained some self belief after this success.
I don't think I've ever seen a rapping patron shoutout disassembly sequence before, so kudoz for doing things in the medium and also tricking me into hearing all the patron names!
I love how genuinely surprised you are every time you get something working. Excellent work! Love the vids!
When steve says "i don't know what to do" i know the video is going to be interesting 😁, thanks Steve all of your videos are actually interesting and i really like your content 🇹🇳💓
I think the coil in question was overheating because of unusual resistance. It was behaving like a heating element. Nice job replacing the offending coil. All good wishes!
Good video on the difference between deduction and induction.
Like a kid on Christmas day when that VS logo appeared on the screen 🤣👍
I appreciate that you talk about your thought process while trouble shooting. It's very helpful
Best reaction ever over an introductory screen!
Steve you got that thing man xdd Never seen a coil shorting a line. I dont even think thats what happened, but the replacement worked. I was taught that as long as a coil has continuity it is good. Today you proved them wrong. Keep it up to them 100k!
The heat indicates that there was some resistance/thin wire in the coil continuity is there but it is generating heat, similar to a light bulb.
You were taught wrong. If a coil has a shorted turn then it will be useless as an inductor
@@okaar But he measured resistance and it turned out the same as other coils.
@@goku445 the reading so low it was within error margins of the meter
Hi Steve, love your videos, think! Simple coils are sort of like little transformers, the windings can short, hence the overheating. The coil has wire that is insulated and that is their weakness. That insulation can become damaged due heat or just wear. Seen it many times over the years and often times it's a struggle to troubleshoot. As you think, well it has continuity it should be fine but as you saw just because it is connected does not mean it's okay. Yep, coils short just like transformers. Little Coils, Little Transformers, Not the same but are the same. Simple way of looking at it.
I don't know why the singing is interrupted by repair attempts... Love this format.
Thought there was going to be a "stupid game" at the end, but you liked it.
Awesome job Steve. It's always so fun to watch you go through your steps and processes and figure it out. Thanks for the video.
He has a wonderfully creative and logical thought process going on underneath that cuddly, jokey exterior
As i was watching Steve clean the coil, i was waiting for the ping lol
There are some really nice small test meters from PEAK
Specifically an LCR meter if you were interested in being able to measure passive components in the future 😊
once again you fixed it I need to invest in a thermal camera cause it always shows you which component is the issue and very cool fix
Was really hoping for "Get in!" and was not disappointed 😁
That's the second time I've seen you pull out that neat little heat meter . . . thing. Very handy for just this sort of job (and the other one I watched). I jotted down the make and model.
Bought the amp/volt meter you use because it seems more flexible than the one I have.
I think I have a little device that you attach components to and it tells you its value. So in this instance, removing one of the other coils and measuring it would be one way to go.
What I really like is your methods and thinking are in many ways like my own and because you are lets be honest enough times to make it worth while, this shows me that I am using a realistic logic path when repair mystery issues . . . most times. It is a percentage game tho, no doubt there.
Love the jubilation on your face when it turned on... Small victories make you feel like you just conquered the world!
I love how excited you get when you fix things.
An inductor, also called a coil, choke, or reactor, is a passive two-terminal electrical component that stores energy in a magnetic field when electric current flows through it.[1] An inductor typically consists of an insulated wire wound into a coil.
All electrical components are either coils, capacitors, resistors or transistors
RK805 is a switching power supply controller - check out the datasheet and you will see a reference diagram showing those 4 inductors...
I was grinning like a Cheshire cat at the end when it powered on past the initially screen 😁
Well done Steve! 👍
Cheers Chris! 😊
This video was a roller coaster of emotions!
Liking the positively. It looks about right therefore it must be right. Buys the controller before it's fixed ! Positively for ya !
I have one of these. The flashing light means boot up. And it goes solid when it’s found a hdmi tv signal. Awesome console though. And that little component failing causing that problem wow
Great work Steve. Thank you for the great video keep up the good work cya next time =).
Thanks Frederick! Much appreciated! 👍
its great how you show us how you think to work through things in your mind on the fixing of these things , your teaching skill are fabulous thank you very much
Stezturday? Saturday Stez? Steve Saturstix? There is a plethora of possibilities to express my enjoyment of this part of my Saturday routine.
Youve build up a lot of convidence in me, so i decided to have a look at my faulty DS1815+… its now working again, after some failed soldering 😅 thank you, keep up the work
Did you ever figure out if that coil replacement was the same as the original? I'm curious of the other two coils on the donor switch would have worked to.
Steve, I love it! I genuinely enjoy your excitement when things work for you. Keep up the great videos mate
If a coil is getting hot, it must be passing a lot more current than it was designed to do. First thing to check would be resistance to ground on the "downstream" side of the coil. I am paused at 13:33 so maybe you found something already :-) The coil itself could have a shorted winding.
Great content you produce. I am in awe of your skills with the equipment and willingness to give anything a go! I am a fan!
I vote for Steve being the new 007 licence to bodge! Great fix