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@@robertmazzei2412 Thanks Robert. I am almost caught up to you on getting everything into epoxy, should be very soon. I miss summer already...

@@Syzygist Thanks. The factory stops are used that stops the window when manually cranking it up and down. Limit switches could be installed but they really aren't needed as long as you don't lay on the switch when the window runs up against the factory stops.

@@Slidesidecustoms Right at 4 minutes in I installed the springs onto the arms. I hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else.

@ It was easy enough fully lifting the hood. Your instructions were fantastic tho! Thank you.

@@raymondantonio4145 Thanks Ray. The inside was stripped really well when it was dipped. Prep was all by hand inside. Came out pretty good all in all.

Ah yes forgot that they were dipped! I should be able to the inside of my doors pretty well hand sanded and scuffed the best I can before I epoxy mine, fortunately my doors were very clean and virtually no surface rust at all. Thanks again for the video Mark, I learn more and more every time!

@@raymondantonio4145 You are very welcome Ray. All this extra prep and sealing will help keep dirt from flying out when you topcoat as well.

@@chriskappes9170 Thanks Chris. I gave something like that a thought but the epoxy is too thick. Automotive sealer is pretty thin and might work. It will probably ruin the seals in a garden spraying so work fast.

@@thebeardsgarage Thanks, we used those at the chrome shop when I worked there. When I was a teenager my dad had me trying to get a hold of a hoof bare armed on a difficult delivery. Never felt anything that slippery in my life. If I find the need again I will definitely pick some up, thanks for the reminder.

@ I saw in another one of your videos about you getting up early to fix fences, we are both farmer / mechanics! Great videos, binge watched today!

@@thebeardsgarage Thank you, I appreciate that. Finished working in the shop today, walked out after a storm blew through and another tree dropped a big branch on a section of fence again. It never ends does it?

Thanks Tim, I appreciate that.

I know the car will outlast me for sure. I have had it for over 40 years but there is no frame off resto in my tired old bodies future so I am pretty sure it will win this one.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I would love to get a full rebuild like we've been doing for our cars.

I agree for me this is perfect for the less important areas. I am using Napa/Martin Senior Tec/Base TP570 which is more expensive but seems to be a lot tighter, lays down well and builds and sands well. It has more of an epoxy smell as well. It also is a lot more glossy when dry than any other epoxy I have seen, not sure if that is a plus or not but that is what I have noticed. I will be using the Tec/Base all the way to final sand and apply the base coat right over it instead of using a urethane primer for blocking out. There are so many out there it can be difficult to pick but the paint rep recommended the Tec/Base to me and I am glad he did.

Thanks. I am hopeful it pays off in the end. How is the truck coming along? I haven't received any update pics lately.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I haven't gotten much done. I have been busy dealing with idiots getting our prototypes made. I'm trying to stay American on the manufacturing but I don't have 30 years to wait. I don't know what they are for I have to tell them how to do everything and it still takes them 3 tries before they believe me.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 Only 3 tries? 😁 Hang in there, persistence will rule the day.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication These are big firms that we pay well into the six digits. I tell them exactly what I want and how to do it and 3 months later they present something completely different that is way overcomplicated. They want to put wheels on a horse and then can't figure out why it won't go up a mountain trail.

@lazyhoundracing9621 I spent 30 years dealing with engineers, I feel your pain.

I hope I was of some help to you on your 66. All that work upfront save a lot of frustration later.

@ BTW, I’ve owned my GTO since 1991 when I was 20. 😊

@@Slingudwig I have you beat by a few years but not by much. I am glad we both held onto our GTO's and can make our youthful dreams come true after all this time.

Hi Henry. I did that with the trunk lid some videos back and it seemed to work pretty well but the shape of the inner panels and the size of the holes in the doors pointed me towards brushing/rolling. Hey anything we do is better than nothing and it is good to know I am not the only one going down the same path.

Thanks for the tip. Do you know how well paint adheres to silver brazing? Never used it before. Most of the "welding channels" do lap joints on the work bench on 1/8" or thicker under perfect conditions which really doesn't help us car guys in the real world does it? The phosphoric acid the car was dipped in really makes TIG welding tough when you can't get to the back side to clean.

Not sure if they make them for your car but here is a link: www.onepieceproducts.com/

Thanks Anthony. Takes 3 times longer to get anything done but it is worth it.

Send me pics of your build and I will showcase them at the end of a video when I get a chance. Make sure to send a link to your channel as well. The Speedokote build seems pretty good but I will be sticking with the epoxy I started with. Builds well and sands well. Glad to hear you got the 89 sprayed before winter got here. Now you have all those cold days to put it back together for Spring time unveiling! The nose on those cars is pretty cool.

Hi Larry, No I don't as I shipped the truck back to the owner for assembly after I installed the cab. It was pretty straight forward from what he told me. I did have to adjust everything once the hood was in place and aligned though.

@@JP-vs1ys Thanks, it is working out awesome on the GTO. I should have built one years ago.

Thanks Doug. How are you doing lately?

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Pretty good for the most part. I'll get results of my biopsy next week.

Thanks, I appreciate that. Pretty much ran out of dents to take out so blocking and filling isn't far off...

Thanks Tim. I am getting better at it little by little.

I would say that it is top notch.

@@Timchevelle-i5r I appreciate that.

@@RonWatson-b6u Thanks Ron. That nose sticks out right with the bumper and takes the first blow. I found a couple of pretty cool hammers on Amazon and put the links in the description. Bought one for myself 😁

@@JimN696 Something I had very little of as a youngster. I walk away plenty of times, it always seems to get easier when I take a quick break. I do way more thinking these days than hammering.

Found it thanks! Yeah links can cause a comment to get blocked. Emailing me is best. Protecting all the hard work is the most important thing.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I'm glad you found it. I didn't want you to think I blew you off on sending it to you.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 Found their site then checked Amazon, they had a few different companies offering similar products. Thanks again

Stainless trim is tough to do but totally doable with patience. A cheap plastic cutting board from Walmart or Amazon works well as does the wood. Use a fine file to help you see the high and low spots while you are working on all that trim. Do you have the stuff you need to polish the stainless?

Yes, I purchased a HF dual wheel polisher. I have finished one piece that had some small dents in the field and one in the body line if you will. I used a small ball peen hammer, a reshaped chisel, and other things to work them out. Had to do it more than once due to the wheel grabbing the part and throwing it into the machine stand. Lesson learned and good practice. I'm very happy with the way it turned out and the fit on the car. And now, onto the other 28 pieces. And thanks for the cutting board idea!

@@mattsteffee Sounds like you have been initiated into the polishing world. Everyone hangs one up sooner or later. When I worked at the chrome shop we had 10 HP polishers with 16-18" wheels and if you hung something up it would throw you across the room with the part. Be careful and get some thick cotton gloves to protect your hands. Not sure what wheels you are using but look up what is called a Sisal wheel. It is a very course wheel that is used first to remove the sanding scratches. Heavy polish compound and a sisal wheel will really bring your work to the next level and speed things up a lot. Not sure what size arbor you have or your HP but here is a link for some 6" wheels. a.co/d/bDsviyL Here is the polish I use as well a.co/d/gsJ3XeB Good luck!

Thanks, I am always learning as I go.

The TIG weld is softer but a MIG works really well. I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe I spilt down the middle, hammered it flat and bend it to conform to whatever I need backed up. MIG doesn't care as much as TIG as far as impurities go but it seemed to work pretty well. I can use all the help I can get 😁

Hi Roy, how is it going? When you are building shape into sheet metal the bag works great but in this case it would give to much allowing me to overshoot. The wood gives a good firm base to hammer against but gives enough to stop me from stretching the panel. Instead of the C clamp a shot bag and careful hammering would work great to get the dent started though.

Yes it is. My comments were out of order, showing some times and not others but I have no idea what was going on. Hopefully it is worked out. Your comment 3 days ago showed up too. Look down 4 comments just below Ray.

Walbro GSL392 Here is a link to summit www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gsl392bx

@@lazyhoundracing9621 Hey there you are! Comments have been acting strange lately.

Thanks Robert. Your batteries should be all recharged so can hit it hard on Pops. Must be getting cold up there now.

It’s definitely fall up here. Temps are not bad, but lots of rain and wind. Stove in the shop is chugging along and keeping things warm. I’m really enjoying your videos! Ruby will be beautiful.

I figured you were busy. I didn't change any settings. Do me a favor and go back when you get a chance and drop a simple comment on the last 2 videos and lets see what happens. If they don't show up let me know and I will check with TH-cam.

I am glad that worked for you but I mocked it up and since I had moved the glass back when I changed the rear channel alignment the glass mounting plate was extremely close to the motor. It works really smooth and doesn't rely on the scrapers to hold the glass centered. On the one piece glass install have you ever had a problem with the glass hitting the hinge reinforcing plates?

Thanks Ray. I like to talk through what I am doing just in case one day someone is stumped on something similar and it just might help. I like the process as long as it works out well in the end. I just finished the other door so we are all good on door glass now!

Hey Chris. Yeah my girlfriend is like that too, she likes the original look. I have had the car since I was 19-20 and have had my fill of the wind wings and I do want Ruby to have a different look while still retaining the classic GTO style. We all have our own vision for are cars and I am building Ruby for me after all these years of building for others.

Hey Chris. Yeah my girlfriend is like that too, she likes the original look. I have had the car since I was 19-20 and have had my fill of the wind wings and I do want Ruby to have a different look while still retaining the classic GTO style. We all have our own vision for are cars and I am building Ruby for me after all these years of building for others.

@FoothillPaintandFabrication i was just kidding i think its cool that it is an option but mine wont have ac so im keeping 2 55 ac in mine great work mark really enjoy the videos

@chriskappes9170 Got to have A/C around here to enjoy the car. You must have nice weather there

@@olsonr69 I responded to Stan. Cantilevering the rollers or shimming the window guide out to meet the rollers would put a lot of strain in areas that were not designed for it. Usually the best way is rarely the easy way.

@@stanherman5604 Hi Stan, the reason I didn't go that route is because it would put the load force onto the window offset causing the regulator arm to twist under load and putting strain on the bracket/glass bond. Ideally you want the regulator to push directly under the glass. By moving the offset on the arm close to the sector gear where the arm had the reinforcement ribs should reduce any twisting forces.

@@roym.9875 Thanks Roy, I wasn't sure it would all come together. Super happy it did.

Thanks, I hope it is of some help to you.

Vinegar does work very well but it eats away the base material as well as the rust so if you have a plated part or a delicate part this solution would be more appropriate. Muriatic acid works super fast but has the same issue as vinegar with vinegar having a ph of 2-3 and muriatic acid 0-1. Having a neutral ph as close to 7 as possible but still eats rust was the goal here.

In theory since the rust is a impurity the heat and shielding gas will cause the impurity to burn off or rise to the top of the molten puddle. I would say you don't have much to worry about. The other areas with pitting, I have triple coated them with epoxy primer then took a DA with 80 grit sanding it smooth-ish. As you know in a perfect world we would replace anything that wasn't perfect but we have to choose our battles during these projects, especially in areas that aren't that important.

Thanks Ray. Yeah you have to build and take apart the car several times to make sure everything is right. Better now than after it is in paint.

Thanks. I think it cleans up the side view nicely and lessons the look of the boxy looking side glass.