We've had evapo-rust here in Australia in Supercheap for long time. There's a video out there which show you can make evapo-rust for pennies. I give U the recipe it works a little bit slower than evapo-rust. 100mls distilled water. 5grams tetrasodium edta. Use enough citrus acid which you get from the baking Isle of your supermarket to bring it down to ph to 6.5. in a couple drops of dishwashing liquid. Cheers Graham.
Mayb wrapping around gel with a bit of glad wrap keep the moisture in. I never seen the gel before. Evapo-rust is supposed to be a neutral pH. I too like Phosphoric Acid, which I buy 5l from cleaning supplies companies for around $40AUD.
Yes Ive got 5 litres of phosphoric sold as aluminium brightener by a car detailing supplier I dilute it 50% for mag wheels- great on brake dust. So far nothing compares with white vinegar or citric acid. this stuff is RUBBISH @@theaussienurseflipper.8113
We use evaporust in the states for a long time. We love it! Never used the gel though. Everyone just uses the regular liquid for soaking parts overall.
In order for this product to work as advertised, preparatory work is needed. Just spray and pray won’t work unless it’s surface rust. I’ve used this product with the preparatory work and the parts came out stupendous and ready for powder coat.
The rust I deal with here is deeper, scaly, and usually has removed considerable metal. I tried a few things like that years ago, and they didn't work. I have a bucket of something that is supposed to remove rust, I soak tools in it that I find rusted in the junk trucks I part out. Some of those tools have been in there for years, it works real slow, but eventually it frees them so they move again. I have a ring and pinion gear in the bucket, been there since 2020. Auto transmission fluid and acetone works pretty good for freeing rusted parts, especially stuck engines, but for most of what I do the sandblaster gets the nod. I don't use sand much anymore, because I have to sift it when its new right out of the bag. Its not fine enough for my pressure blaster. Media isn't cheap, but you can reuse it a few times, and it sifts much easier. Got the last batch from Harbor Freight, it worked quite well on the underside of my race car. I put the body on the lift and then used tarps to keep the media contained under the car, it worked surprisingly well. I used a wire wheel on the frame, then slathered it with POR15 on the top side. I want it to look rough, so I didn't clean where the engine goes or the underside of the frame. I might some day, but the top is done so I could put the cage in it and not worry about the floor and frame. I've been considering a wet blaster, but then I need to build a system to give pressurized water to the power washer. I think a small 10' high water tower with a 250 gallon tank would work great. Gravity makes nice pressure. I need about 2000 gallons of water around here for making fuel and the garden/vehicles, so I have a bunch of those 275 gallon square tanks with cages around them I got on farm sales.
I've never seen the aerosol version. I've used the liquid bath version many times and it works extremely well. I wouldn't dismiss the product as rubbish based on this one experience.
I dont believe the aerosol is the same product- this was a complete fail- even on lightly rusted screws and washers and a lightly rusted pair of scissors. completely ineffectual over an entire WEEK!
Have you tried simple Ferric Chloride Solution (FeCl3)? They use it to etch printed circuit boards and is a wet liquid. Here in the UK you could get it from a chemist (or you could when I was etching PCB's but that was a while ago) but is available from other sources ;o) Just paint it on and watch your rust go black, then rinse and paint! It converts the rust to an inert chemical that does not allow rust to form and works well on anything but flakey rust ...... you do need to get that off first! TBH you don't even need to paint it as it has a nice black finish to it ....... but it does stain your hands yellow so gloves are good!
I normally use citric acid or vinegar- with great results. But after seeing the Evaporust bash demos, I thought this would be as good. It was a complete waste of a week!
Appreciate you “taking one for the team” so we know what works & what’s complete RUBBISH!😆
Thank you sir.... on to the next
We've had evapo-rust here in Australia in Supercheap for long time. There's a video out there which show you can make evapo-rust for pennies. I give U the recipe it works a little bit slower than evapo-rust. 100mls distilled water. 5grams tetrasodium edta. Use enough citrus acid which you get from the baking Isle of your supermarket to bring it down to ph to 6.5. in a couple drops of dishwashing liquid. Cheers Graham.
Mayb wrapping around gel with a bit of glad wrap keep the moisture in. I never seen the gel before. Evapo-rust is supposed to be a neutral pH. I too like Phosphoric Acid, which I buy 5l from cleaning supplies companies for around $40AUD.
Yes Ive got 5 litres of phosphoric sold as aluminium brightener by a car detailing supplier I dilute it 50% for mag wheels- great on brake dust. So far nothing compares with white vinegar or citric acid. this stuff is RUBBISH @@theaussienurseflipper.8113
We use evaporust in the states for a long time.
We love it!
Never used the gel though.
Everyone just uses the regular liquid for soaking parts overall.
In order for this product to work as advertised, preparatory work is needed. Just spray and pray won’t work unless it’s surface rust.
I’ve used this product with the preparatory work and the parts came out stupendous and ready for powder coat.
The rust I deal with here is deeper, scaly, and usually has removed considerable metal. I tried a few things like that years ago, and they didn't work. I have a bucket of something that is supposed to remove rust, I soak tools in it that I find rusted in the junk trucks I part out. Some of those tools have been in there for years, it works real slow, but eventually it frees them so they move again. I have a ring and pinion gear in the bucket, been there since 2020. Auto transmission fluid and acetone works pretty good for freeing rusted parts, especially stuck engines, but for most of what I do the sandblaster gets the nod.
I don't use sand much anymore, because I have to sift it when its new right out of the bag. Its not fine enough for my pressure blaster. Media isn't cheap, but you can reuse it a few times, and it sifts much easier. Got the last batch from Harbor Freight, it worked quite well on the underside of my race car. I put the body on the lift and then used tarps to keep the media contained under the car, it worked surprisingly well. I used a wire wheel on the frame, then slathered it with POR15 on the top side. I want it to look rough, so I didn't clean where the engine goes or the underside of the frame. I might some day, but the top is done so I could put the cage in it and not worry about the floor and frame.
I've been considering a wet blaster, but then I need to build a system to give pressurized water to the power washer. I think a small 10' high water tower with a 250 gallon tank would work great. Gravity makes nice pressure. I need about 2000 gallons of water around here for making fuel and the garden/vehicles, so I have a bunch of those 275 gallon square tanks with cages around them I got on farm sales.
I soak in vinegar when restoring classic parts ..amazing
Cool info
Evaporate liquid instructions say to completely immerse objects in the liquid. So I don't know how this spray would work
Thanks for the review!
Im pissed that I got sucked in by the marketing! It's nothing like the liquid bath version.
I've never seen the aerosol version. I've used the liquid bath version many times and it works extremely well. I wouldn't dismiss the product as rubbish based on this one experience.
I dont believe the aerosol is the same product- this was a complete fail- even on lightly rusted screws and washers and a lightly rusted pair of scissors. completely ineffectual over an entire WEEK!
I used the CRC Evaporust on my car fuel tank with 0 results. I then purchased the Rannex product today and have to tell ya worked a treat.
Thats good to hear. I didnt know Rainex was making something- Ill just stick to vinegar and citric acid and phosphoric acid. 'products' are bunk!
@@t.h.o.r.underused term “bunk”
Have you tried simple Ferric Chloride Solution (FeCl3)?
They use it to etch printed circuit boards and is a wet liquid. Here in the UK you could get it from a chemist (or you could when I was etching PCB's but that was a while ago) but is available from other sources ;o)
Just paint it on and watch your rust go black, then rinse and paint!
It converts the rust to an inert chemical that does not allow rust to form and works well on anything but flakey rust ...... you do need to get that off first!
TBH you don't even need to paint it as it has a nice black finish to it ....... but it does stain your hands yellow so gloves are good!
I normally use citric acid or vinegar- with great results. But after seeing the Evaporust bash demos, I thought this would be as good. It was a complete waste of a week!
We call it a double pack or a twin pack not a combo pack.The liquid one is better.
hi...still no email...do you have an email i can contact you on about a fireplace?
"Combining" 2 of the same product for a cheaper price. See this marketing all the time!!
Disappointing to say the least , I was hoping to use it on my van without pulling the panels off to the rusting surfaces......!!!!
well- Im completely disappointed. I waited a WEEK for results and got nothing but a white residue over my rust.
That's not a combo it's a two-pack