As a vehicle tech for 32 years i so enjoyed watching this, This guy knows his onions with Merc diesels! His confidence and skills in getting the job done was awesome to watch 👍
First time viewing one of your videos, what a brilliant experience. No rubbish distracting background tempo / music. Just quality information. Well done and keep up the excellent work Mr
I love his attitude " i am going to get it out and im gonna get paid,, im gonna take that money". Thats a person that you can trust. It might be expensive, but 100% is worth it, no cutting corners. Good job mate.
Just watch your brilliant engineering skills Nice to see things went wrong but you over came this Looking forward to watching your other videoes Live long and prosper
Hey Mate,Don’t make excuses for your charges as I’m a mechanic and lots of blokes would end up with the head in the bin Great work I have a V6 OM642 to tackle at some stage,but living in a warm climate like Western Australia don’t need all the glows working Thanks for allowing us to look in Fan in Oz
the 2 jobs on any diesel engine with the most potential grief .. glow plug & injector removal ( different engines have different levels of PITA ) .. nicely done Luke
Any welded extraction like this is always easier if you use a flux-core Mig - simple reason being it welds hotter, so the extra heat helps loosen stuff, it isn't at all fussy compared to Tig or Mig about contamination - it will still bite hard to dirty metal, plus you can really hose in material to get fast build-up. I grab the welder, start hosing metal onto the broken-off plugs, don't even attempt to fit a nut or anything at first - just hose on metal so you have a nice big area to get a nut onto, then grab a nice chunky nut - bigger the better - sit the nut onto the big weld-gobbet, weld on the nut & then use a low powered rattle gun. Because flux-core bites so hard & deep, generates so much heat in the process, stuff gives up. :-) With normal mig, it's really difficult because there is almost always contamination - which makes for a weak weld that breaks easily, same goes for tig. I failed loads of times using those, almost always because the tungsten/oil/grease/crud made the welds weak & porous. Try flux-core, report back in amazement. :-)
Thanks for that, I may have to get some flux cored, I've been a gas user for years lol, argoshield, co2, migweld5, I thought it was a better weld as I'd used it at work. I have learned today.
Amazingly refreshing that a professional actually wants the Joe soaps of the world to learn and try to do the work, rather than just wanting them to send in jobs.
Fair play showing how to remove glow plugs. Very informative video with lots of trade tips. I have to admire the ending of the video saying "just do it yourself" Great Yorkshire lad running a business and a helpful TH-cam channel. 👍
Great video, I totally agree with your comments (learn to do it your self). We have a nation of thickits who expect everything done for them yesterday for nothing. When I was about 10 years old I blunted one of my father's drills and put it back in drill box. When dad got home I was promptly dragged back to his workshop by my ear, then dad showed me how to sharpen the blunt drill. I couldn't go and what I wanted until I could sharpen a drill bit, best thing dad ever taught me. I did a tool making apprenticeship after leaving school at 16, the only thing I've not go my head around over the years is fixing diesel injection pumps and injectors, I send them to the local specialist.
Ahh the old nutwelder! great tool to use for extracting a lot of threaded fasteners as well. When hand feeding a drill bit on soft material especially with a small cut, you can take the belt sander and adjust the last fraction of the cutting edge, changing the helix angle from about 30 degrees to about 15 degrees, blunting the cutting edge. This makes it a lot less grabby and requires slightly more pressure and gives better control
Luke, another great how-to video. I would very much appreciate a video on the relationship between the idle control, the low-end rack-limiting nut and the ELR. With some experimentation I have found that by plugging or unplugging the ELR, turning down the idle control and compensating with the rack nut and vice-versa, I get various effects such as more or less jerking, idle speed that varies wildly with temperature or run time, and an engine that will or won't start without accelerator pedal input. Such experimenting is time consuming and after a few hours of it I'm not sure I'm any smarter about how these three things interact and I'm still not satisfied with the level of jerkiness, consistency of idle, or ease of starting without accerator input. I have been able to get every one of these factors working in a satisfactory manner, but never all three at the same time, and I would very much appreciate a tutorial from your expertise.
Great video and repair. I like the fact that you are teaching other people to fish. I know you have been doing that for a while but I worry about using a powered device for running a tap, it's risky. I think a lot of technicians would have destroyed that cylinder head and then told the customer they need to buy a new cylinder head. I commend you on a job well done.
Listen,i have absolutely loved watching this video. Im a diy mechanic and work in heavy engineering so i love this. I have subscribed and please keep these fantastic videos coming.
Best video to date. Have had MB diesels most of my life and now I understand SO much more. Thank you. An entire diesel course in 20 min. Saved in video library.😊. Great promotion for your products.
I served my Apprenticeship under an English Diesel Mechanic..You said you wanted some Helpful Engineering advice..? .Weld a washer, with a hole large enough to go over the object you are trying to extract, to the object..This gives you a larger surface to weld a nut to, and therefore a bigger purchase area for your weld.. The nut can then be welded inside and out multiplying the weld contact area several times..Let it cool right down..Then warm the head around the area of the extraction..NOT Red Hot, just warm and especially with Alloy it will transfer heat quickly..This will expand the alloy and help relieve the tension..Where you used engine oil, George always used Auto Trans fluid..He called it the best lubricant in the world..
no argument. & yup, not engine oil tho maybe no issue with synthetic- heat + solvent dwn th arse end & bit more reverse welly & compression impact but yup guy was a joy. wldnt it be neat to get the other 99% of vids off the inet where plonkers think they have discovered the wheel- & still not got it right
Once upon a time basic engineering skills that we who did real apprenticeships had.Mine was with Holroyds at the gear works in Milnrow some 40 odd years ago first year with Jack Valentine and Dave Kirk in the training school followed by production work. Tig had not been invented then but we did Gas and Stick in addition to bench fitting, machining sheet metal work etc all between the tender age of 16 to 20. We have fallen along way as a Country. Good recovery of this cylinder head well done.
As a mechanic, I really struggle with watching him using the impact gun on a job like this, easing it by hand with oil and little heat on the cylinder head and it probably would of come out first time, however he got the job done, that's the main thing.
Another top tip for you, having been here with bust off plugs and just the shank left deep inside the head, all options exhausted… Heat the head! Stand the head up in front of a space heater, mines the torpedo type, leave it for 10 or 15 minutes then try, I get them so hot you need welding gloves to handle, build this into your process and hopefully you’ll find it helps loads, surface before refitting.
Brilliant video, and some clear experience and learnt skills being brought to bear on a difficult job for the average DIY mechanic. I really enjoyed that. Cheers 👋🇬🇧🇪🇺🇺🇦
totally amazing footage of how to remove broken glow plugs like i have at the moment on my vivaro. brilliant step by step video an well informative great job
Hey Luke I know you guys are over the pond and use the metric system regularly, but Ive found the holes in the sleeve where the tungsten lives if it breaks down low like it should is right about .250 and you can tap it to 5/16x18 and keep the remaining plug sleeves as strong as possible for the slide hammer and skip a step. Thought it might be helpful if you hadn’t tried it yet. Great video!!
Also you can tap the plug sleeve with a left hand tap and back the glow plug out with a grade 8 left hand 5/16x18 if your lucky, its worked for me a couple times. 👍🤘
I am living on the city of Urk Their is a shop owner Pul ! He did this on my sons OM 606 in ond hour!! Finely the motor build in the boat and by start , one cirkel and fire up!!
It's great that you share your skills and knowledge, now days some just put it in the to hard basket and pay others, what they miss out on is the life skills they can gain
Just a thought stellite (Cobalt drill) for drilling. as it gets red hot the hardness value of the drill exceeds that of the material you are drilling and if flies through it.
flippin MEGA! this is the best Engineery Nerdy thing i have watched on youtube this last year. Solid Effort, determination, confidence backed up by those TIG skills. keep on this track tackling hard shit jobs with honesty.❤
To remove them without breaking them, start by removing the corrosion at the top of the glow plug. Then heat the head of the glow plug to white hot for a minute or two so the heat has time to make it's way down the plug. As soon as it has cooled enough not to burn it, start spraying it with penetrating fluid. Let the plugs fully cool before removing them. Warming up the engine doesn't hurt.
Nice video of fixing that head up. I was surprised you didn’t use a glow plug hole reamer to clean the bores. I have not bought one in a long time, but I didn’t think they were to expensive.
very enjoyable video. first job I learnt to do as an apprentice . sharpen drill bits. spent over a week sharpening a big box of drill bits all different sizes.🤣🤣
Best way I found to remove them was to just take them all out while the head was still in the engine and if one or two broke just to leave them in the head. Make sure to keep extras and a ratchet in the van and in a couple weeks they just blow out from engine heat and cooling cycles. Pullover and pop the new ones in! Way easier then pulling the head.
Nice extraction. Couldn't help but wonder why you didn't shield the glow plug hole wall with a short piece of thin-walled copper pipe? On the one which broke real deep, I reckon you could have just put some copper pipe in the hole and guide and weld a MIG wire down the pipe, soon it would have been sticking out enough for you to attach a nut in it.
I absolutely appreciate the time and tips you constantly share! I'm wanting to slap one of these beasts into my mk4 jetta tdi after we blow up the 1.9l 😂 We're going to go for a stick shift diesel record when she's all done.
My glowplugs have been in for 7 years with 70,000 extra miles. every year I'd say to myself I'd need to change them but never did. Last week I got new nozzels and will clean out the prechambers. All glowplugs came out perfectly because I used gray anti-seize on them back then. Use Anti-seize on the whole plug except the black anode part. torque to 25Nm and you will never have any issues. Use left over transmission fluid fluid as thread penetrating oil if you did not anti-seize.
If all hell let loose and things seem like they can't be salvaged, the tungsten and entire glow plug can be removed by using an EDM drill. Some shops have something similar for removing broken taps or siezed bolts. Maybe in the UK the heads are readily available, but here in the States not so much. Never scrap it unless all options are exhausted.
Time served blacksmith one of the first things I was taught was to heat and cool a nut and bolt , to un seize, the cooling of the nut stretches it over the Still expanded bolt , then when the bolt is also cooled, the not will more than likely be hand tight. Another thing I am surprised to see you not using left-handed drills for cleaning threads
As this is something that I do on a daily basis on the vehicle - believe me many people are willing to try but only a select few are knowledgeable even in garages. In garages like ypu say in your workshop it takes time and time doing better things like a service or fit a replacement part. So its a specialist job, hence calling q specialist - I have seen many attempts with broken drill bits, easy-outs - do in my opinion it can be the difference of being lucky, having experience or inadvertently scrapping your cylinder head. Your advice and methodology was sound though 👍👌🙏
To prevent an old glow plug snapping in the first place, I agree with you about using an Impact Wrench 100% and in my opinion only use that, nothing else. The is because the reason, I think, it is more likely that an old glow plug may snap is undue side load. I'll try to explain this; So as well as the rotational torque, if you are not careful you can apply a side bending force that will cause the head of the glow plug to bend side ways a little when you apply force. This is made worst if you use longer extension bar on your wrench as this acts as a lever applying more bending force if you are not careful. I suspect it is this force that cause the glow plug head to snap. If the force can be kept purely rotational (i.e. Impact wrench) then I think the old plug will come out without snapping. What do people think agree/disagree?
I have my eye on a dedicated vibratory low torque air impact wrench for removing glow plugs, it only uses the torque figures for the glow plugs so it hopefully doesn't snap them
Really good video, but I wanted to see how hard the tungsten middle of a glow plug is. So I got one out of my scrap bin which I pulled out of my landrover 300tdi engine a few years ago I sawed it in half with a standard hacksaw blade no problem, so I got a drill bit on and drilled the tungsten aswell which didn't seem that hard
Thanks for sharing your expertise! One day soon I'm going to have to change the glow plugs and injectors on the 3.0 Iveco in my Peugeot Boxer. I know this stuff is going to come in handy and I'm looking forward to it now ......... not :-)
Came across this video today as I have patiently taken the whole day to remove mine and onto the last one that’s moved back and fourth with loads of thread breaker and wd40 and pop snapped past the nut. Currently using a self tapping screwed into the tip (tungsten luckily attached to the top that came out) and have tried pulling it out with not much luck. Have started to remove the front of the van just so I can get a slide hammer on it. Thought I’d have a look online for any tips as although I done this when the engine was hot it doesn’t take long for it to cool down and that carbon turn into what I can only describe as bitumen like hell 😂 Glad I stumbled across it as just for what turned out to be an American Steven hawking impression 😂 you get a follow for that alone and a great video insight 👍🏻
I found the warm engine up first method very usefull . Apart from the rear cylinder . Becouse the oil filter housing hides it and stops you getting the impact wrench in
Luckily the plugs in my 2.7 5 cylinder CLK came straight out! I’d been made aware of the nightmares! And used the small impact. And yes I fully agree with sharpening drill bits! My mentor a blacksmith called Stan pike. Showed me how to sharpen drills! One skill I’m truly grateful for!! ❤ the videos bud! 🎉🎉❤❤
I am doing PSA diesel injectors. Also doing glow plugs. I'm doing practically the same as you do. Except I use ceramic grease on both injectors and glowplugs.
Thanks for all lessons Tks for along compassions and you’re one of beauty mechanical guy in the same time make job funny and simple hope all the best god blessed you mmm finally get welding 💪🏻.
Heat did it finally .. i do heavily recommend let the plugs soak with motor oil for at least a week before get an attempt on it .. a really good lubricant to get em go is the Kent rust penetrate spray.
I'm considering wrapping the plugs with PTFE plumbers tape when i come to replace mine Also Bosch has a torque wrench table for each size plug to guarantee you wont snap them
Another great video to watch full of knowledge material 👌🏼 I used your previous video as a reference when I did my glow pugs, they were all stuck, I went through the process as you explained and everything went smooth, I managed to extract 5 of 6. I only failed to extract the last one because I'm an idiot, It was already dark, I was really exhausted and instead of calling it a day, go get some rest and carry on the next day I tried to just get it done and didn't remembered to replace the stud I was using to pull the glow plugs out, it was probably already really stretched after removing 5 glow plugs and when I went to extract the last one it snapped inside the glow plug. I tried welding a nut to the top to remove it but I didn't let it cool enough as you mention in your video and jus kept snapping. I got the engine back together and kept using the car in the hope the engine would spit out the glow plug since the threads were already drilled. It's been 2 years 😅😭 Maybe when I get one of your mechanical pumps, a big turbo and some propper boost it will finally come out! Keep it going man, all the best, I love your work!🤜🏼🤛🏼
I bought a 2003 X5 with the M57 and discovered the previous owner snapped 4 of them... I tried everything to get them out, heat, cold, left hand drill bits, easy-outs and managed to remove only 1. They're not really needed on the M57 so I just left them. If removing glow plugs warm the engine up, find out the shear value and use a torque wrench that will work anti-clockwise. If it won't unscrew then it's time to try something else
Excellent work Luke . Just wondering though , since the Head was cold , could a Proper Heat Gun be used to heat it . A Heat Gun can strip Paint so i think it could , given time , produce the Thermal Expansion of the Casting required .
Many years ago an old mechanic showed me that to clean the carbon out of an engine prior to disassembly, you use water. By spraying water into a running engine, the water turns into steam in the combustion chamber and, with enough water and some patience, the steam will clean the carbon out of the engine thus making the cleaning MUCH easier. I don’t know if this process would help, but it can’t hurt.
Congratulations, very high-quality work. Very few mechanics would have the necessary skills or Tig Welder, many years of tig welding experience needed to perform these welds in such a confined place any mistakes and damage to the aluminium head would occur. Personally, I have tigged stainless & and alloy for close to 40 years ,I would cautious doing this repair. I remove my hat to you.
Top man no one likes to do this kind of job. Only thing is that I think is when people have had a good go and get it wrong and they then go to the mechanic or machine shop to get it rectified and they expect it to be quick easy and cheap all because they have got one or two out for themselves but they don't realise how much time it takes to fix what they have done to make a complete mess of it is still going to cost almost the same as it would do before if not a little more because it is always a headache to fix the job they have made twice as hard to do.. but it is a good feeling of achievement if you are successful and not to mention it saves a few quid
This is kinda like removing broken exhaust studs from the engine when theyve snapped off below the head surface. I've had to weld nuts on 12 or 13 studs on the side of a V10 blind behind the spring tower before. Took nearly all day but i got em all.
If u see its hard to unscrew, requires a lot of force to do it - u feel like u break them - STOP, just STOP. Put some engine oil on each of these glow plugs - treads. Drive for 2 days. Next day before trying to unscrew them - warm up engine to engine working temperature. Then step by step forward backward try to unscrew them. Dont rush. Slowly. Done by myself - everything gone great.
I always do that even with injectors. Losen the injector bracket.a tiny bit and spray with plenty of releasing agent. Then i leave it parked up running the get some temp in the engine. A lot of the pressure and heat pushes the stuck injector out onto the bracket. Very costly if you try going hammer and tongs on these things.
Have you considered a reverse drill bit for drilling? I've found that alot of bolts that are stuck, happily come out when using reverse drill bits. Thinkinng out loud here; Would putting the entire head in an ultrasonic cleaner assist in getting into the area between the glow plug and the head, or flipping the head upside down and using a carbon deposit cleaner or such around the glow plug to try to loosen the carbon deposits before removing the glow plug?
nice one Luke ,good work there ,its a shame theres not a better way ,trouble with unscrewing them is they dont put em in easy access places ,you saved the head there mate ,think the tig welder was key there ,a mig would of been a bit of a blunt tool
What happens if you do it with the cylinder head still on, what if debris go down the holes. I’ve got 2 on a Fiat Ducato snapped in No 3 and No 4 cylinders, can you just hoover debris out Very useful video Thanks
My w110 mercedes 200d never has glow plugs stick and not come out. But then it has a pre combustion chamber cylinder head designed in the UK by Harry Ricardo.
Ahh yes the not so fun job of glow plug removal... I had to change mine a couple of months ago when I was changing the inlet manifold and I snapped two tips off, luckily it was just the tips to drill and tap out, still a painful job... That's when a friend said only do them when the engine is hot.... Great advice for anyone attempting it themselves...
Hello, What you did there was fantastic. I need your help. I have a 2012 sprinter 2500 with two glow plugs stuck/broken/drilled badly. I recently took my vehicle for tone up and they recommended the glow plugs to be replaced. out of the 6 they were able to take 4 out/replaced and break #3 and #4. I have taken the vehicle to three other shops and they are saying it's beyond repair and suggesting me to replace the Engine. The shop that caused the damages for me is not taking responsibility. What do you suggest I need to do? what should I do? sending you my head cylinder might not be an option? I live in Washington DC/Virginia, but guiding me to a right path or someone you know in that can do this job in American will help. Please advise. Thank you!
As a vehicle tech for 32 years i so enjoyed watching this, This guy knows his onions with Merc diesels! His confidence and skills in getting the job done was awesome to watch 👍
First time viewing one of your videos, what a brilliant experience.
No rubbish distracting background tempo / music.
Just quality information.
Well done and keep up the excellent work Mr
I love his attitude " i am going to get it out and im gonna get paid,, im gonna take that money". Thats a person that you can trust. It might be expensive, but 100% is worth it, no cutting corners. Good job mate.
Brilliant, nice to see someone sharing their skills with others. That’s the sign of a real engineer.
Just watch your brilliant engineering skills
Nice to see things went wrong but you over came this
Looking forward to watching your other videoes
Live long and prosper
Well done Luke! As always, another no bullshit vid showin the true side of these jobs! Always a pleasure to watch real life!👍
th-cam.com/video/4Ns9X1h2Rl0/w-d-xo.html
Hey Mate,Don’t make excuses for your charges as I’m a mechanic and lots of blokes would end up with the head in the bin Great work I have a V6 OM642 to tackle at some stage,but living in a warm climate like Western Australia don’t need all the glows working
Thanks for allowing us to look in Fan in Oz
A joy to watch. I've worked on military aircraft, this is the attitude you need to complete difficult tasks.
the 2 jobs on any diesel engine with the most potential grief .. glow plug & injector removal ( different engines have different levels of PITA ) .. nicely done Luke
Persistent talent. Most would have given up in the first five minutes. Great video on 'how to' with humour and excellent information.
Any welded extraction like this is always easier if you use a flux-core Mig - simple reason being it welds hotter, so the extra heat helps loosen stuff, it isn't at all fussy compared to Tig or Mig about contamination - it will still bite hard to dirty metal, plus you can really hose in material to get fast build-up.
I grab the welder, start hosing metal onto the broken-off plugs, don't even attempt to fit a nut or anything at first - just hose on metal so you have a nice big area to get a nut onto, then grab a nice chunky nut - bigger the better - sit the nut onto the big weld-gobbet, weld on the nut & then use a low powered rattle gun. Because flux-core bites so hard & deep, generates so much heat in the process, stuff gives up. :-)
With normal mig, it's really difficult because there is almost always contamination - which makes for a weak weld that breaks easily, same goes for tig. I failed loads of times using those, almost always because the tungsten/oil/grease/crud made the welds weak & porous. Try flux-core, report back in amazement. :-)
Flux core also has reversed polarity allowing current to flow up instead of down
I hope I never have to do this job, but it's fair to say flux core is pretty underrated and really useful and cheap within it's specific sweet spot.
Thanks for that, I may have to get some flux cored, I've been a gas user for years lol, argoshield, co2, migweld5, I thought it was a better weld as I'd used it at work. I have learned today.
Amazingly refreshing that a professional actually wants the Joe soaps of the world to learn and try to do the work, rather than just wanting them to send in jobs.
Fair play showing how to remove glow plugs. Very informative video with lots of trade tips. I have to admire the ending of the video saying "just do it yourself" Great Yorkshire lad running a business and a helpful TH-cam channel. 👍
Great video, I totally agree with your comments (learn to do it your self). We have a nation of thickits who expect everything done for them yesterday for nothing. When I was about 10 years old I blunted one of my father's drills and put it back in drill box. When dad got home I was promptly dragged back to his workshop by my ear, then dad showed me how to sharpen the blunt drill. I couldn't go and what I wanted until I could sharpen a drill bit, best thing dad ever taught me. I did a tool making apprenticeship after leaving school at 16, the only thing I've not go my head around over the years is fixing diesel injection pumps and injectors, I send them to the local specialist.
Ahh the old nutwelder! great tool to use for extracting a lot of threaded fasteners as well. When hand feeding a drill bit on soft material especially with a small cut, you can take the belt sander and adjust the last fraction of the cutting edge, changing the helix angle from about 30 degrees to about 15 degrees, blunting the cutting edge. This makes it a lot less grabby and requires slightly more pressure and gives better control
Glow plugs job can be a pain in the head.... literally.
A bit more pain in the ass if they broke in half and stay in the head. Especially if engine belongs to your customer not to you
Ha ha ha I see what you did there 😂 very good 👍
Luke, another great how-to video. I would very much appreciate a video on the relationship between the idle control, the low-end rack-limiting nut and the ELR. With some experimentation I have found that by plugging or unplugging the ELR, turning down the idle control and compensating with the rack nut and vice-versa, I get various effects such as more or less jerking, idle speed that varies wildly with temperature or run time, and an engine that will or won't start without accelerator pedal input. Such experimenting is time consuming and after a few hours of it I'm not sure I'm any smarter about how these three things interact and I'm still not satisfied with the level of jerkiness, consistency of idle, or ease of starting without accerator input. I have been able to get every one of these factors working in a satisfactory manner, but never all three at the same time, and I would very much appreciate a tutorial from your expertise.
Great video and repair. I like the fact that you are teaching other people to fish. I know you have been doing that for a while but I worry about using a powered device for running a tap, it's risky. I think a lot of technicians would have destroyed that cylinder head and then told the customer they need to buy a new cylinder head. I commend you on a job well done.
Listen,i have absolutely loved watching this video. Im a diy mechanic and work in heavy engineering so i love this. I have subscribed and please keep these fantastic videos coming.
Not sure how or why I came across your video but I loved watching it. I feel 500 is more than fair for what you've done.
Fabulous video with no disrespect shown to the person who sent the head in. Credit to you.
Best video to date. Have had MB diesels most of my life and now I understand SO much more. Thank you. An entire diesel course in 20 min. Saved in video library.😊. Great promotion for your products.
Just found your channel. I don't have a om606, but still enjoy your video's
I served my Apprenticeship under an English Diesel Mechanic..You said you wanted some Helpful Engineering advice..? .Weld a washer, with a hole large enough to go over the object you are trying to extract, to the object..This gives you a larger surface to weld a nut to, and therefore a bigger purchase area for your weld.. The nut can then be welded inside and out multiplying the weld contact area several times..Let it cool right down..Then warm the head around the area of the extraction..NOT Red Hot, just warm and especially with Alloy it will transfer heat quickly..This will expand the alloy and help relieve the tension..Where you used engine oil, George always used Auto Trans fluid..He called it the best lubricant in the world..
no argument. & yup, not engine oil tho maybe no issue with synthetic- heat + solvent dwn th arse end & bit more reverse welly & compression impact but yup guy was a joy. wldnt it be neat to get the other 99% of vids off the inet where plonkers think they have discovered the wheel- & still not got it right
Mannn I might need to do this. What’s the success rate for this? I broke an extractor bit inside after snapping the nut
Once upon a time basic engineering skills that we who did real apprenticeships had.Mine was with Holroyds at the gear works in Milnrow some 40 odd years ago first year with Jack Valentine and Dave Kirk in the training school followed by production work. Tig had not been invented then but we did Gas and Stick in addition to bench fitting, machining sheet metal work etc all between the tender age of 16 to 20.
We have fallen along way as a Country.
Good recovery of this cylinder head well done.
As a mechanic, I really struggle with watching him using the impact gun on a job like this, easing it by hand with oil and little heat on the cylinder head and it probably would of come out first time, however he got the job done, that's the main thing.
Hello from Moosomin,Saskatchewan you have great videos and great at communicating. Thanks for sharing
Another top tip for you, having been here with bust off plugs and just the shank left deep inside the head, all options exhausted… Heat the head! Stand the head up in front of a space heater, mines the torpedo type, leave it for 10 or 15 minutes then try, I get them so hot you need welding gloves to handle, build this into your process and hopefully you’ll find it helps loads, surface before refitting.
Great perseverance, your skills are incredible, first time watching your videos
Brilliant video, and some clear experience and learnt skills being brought to bear on a difficult job for the average DIY mechanic. I really enjoyed that. Cheers 👋🇬🇧🇪🇺🇺🇦
Your American accent is better than my British one, so... good job on all fronts. 😊
totally amazing footage of how to remove broken glow plugs like i have at the moment on my vivaro.
brilliant step by step video an well informative
great job
Hey Luke I know you guys are over the pond and use the metric system regularly, but Ive found the holes in the sleeve where the tungsten lives if it breaks down low like it should is right about .250 and you can tap it to 5/16x18 and keep the remaining plug sleeves as strong as possible for the slide hammer and skip a step. Thought it might be helpful if you hadn’t tried it yet. Great video!!
Also you can tap the plug sleeve with a left hand tap and back the glow plug out with a grade 8 left hand 5/16x18 if your lucky, its worked for me a couple times. 👍🤘
I am living on the city of Urk
Their is a shop owner Pul !
He did this on my sons OM 606 in ond hour!!
Finely the motor build in the boat and by start , one cirkel and fire up!!
It's great that you share your skills and knowledge, now days some just put it in the to hard basket and pay others, what they miss out on is the life skills they can gain
That was a master class on problem solving. Loved it thanks for sharing 😀
Thanks for your insight, I feel a lot more confident now in tackling this job
Easily your best video/tutorial. Well done for putting this it there encouraging owners of diesel engines in general to have a go. Thanks Luke.
Just a thought stellite (Cobalt drill) for drilling. as it gets red hot the hardness value of the drill exceeds that of the material you are drilling and if flies through it.
I had one break on me. I simply put some rags around it and drove the car for about 5 mile and out it pooped. Compression did it. Nice video.
Great video explanation 👍
flippin MEGA! this is the best Engineery Nerdy thing i have watched on youtube this last year. Solid Effort, determination, confidence backed up by those TIG skills. keep on this track tackling hard shit jobs with honesty.❤
To remove them without breaking them, start by removing the corrosion at the top of the glow plug. Then heat the head of the glow plug to white hot for a minute or two so the heat has time to make it's way down the plug. As soon as it has cooled enough not to burn it, start spraying it with penetrating fluid. Let the plugs fully cool before removing them. Warming up the engine doesn't hurt.
Maybe run it upto temp and then go for removing the glow plug.
Heat the aluminium head white hot ?
@@victory2115 The head of the glow plug.
Nice video of fixing that head up. I was surprised you didn’t use a glow plug hole reamer to clean the bores. I have not bought one in a long time, but I didn’t think they were to expensive.
very enjoyable video. first job I learnt to do as an apprentice . sharpen drill bits. spent over a week sharpening a big box of drill bits all different sizes.🤣🤣
i always put some coper slip on them during assembly ...makes it easy to come out at a later stage
Most metal will shrink slightly on air cooling, so leaving it to cool, & maybe warming up the casting should help. You're quite right.
Hi, I seen people welding a nut in place fild up with welding rod, making a stronger atachment , greethings from Norway...;)
Best way I found to remove them was to just take them all out while the head was still in the engine and if one or two broke just to leave them in the head. Make sure to keep extras and a ratchet in the van and in a couple weeks they just blow out from engine heat and cooling cycles.
Pullover and pop the new ones in!
Way easier then pulling the head.
Nice extraction. Couldn't help but wonder why you didn't shield the glow plug hole wall with a short piece of thin-walled copper pipe? On the one which broke real deep, I reckon you could have just put some copper pipe in the hole and guide and weld a MIG wire down the pipe, soon it would have been sticking out enough for you to attach a nut in it.
I absolutely appreciate the time and tips you constantly share! I'm wanting to slap one of these beasts into my mk4 jetta tdi after we blow up the 1.9l 😂 We're going to go for a stick shift diesel record when she's all done.
Not just build a pd130/150 606 in a transverse engined VW seems difficult....
@@georgemarshall6657 true that is an option but we're going full tube chassis and want to see a record for a stick shift diesel sedan. 🤣
It was a pleasure to watch. Hat down to that allen key at 17:00
My glowplugs have been in for 7 years with 70,000 extra miles. every year I'd say to myself I'd need to change them but never did. Last week I got new nozzels and will clean out the prechambers. All glowplugs came out perfectly because I used gray anti-seize on them back then. Use Anti-seize on the whole plug except the black anode part. torque to 25Nm and you will never have any issues. Use left over transmission fluid fluid as thread penetrating oil if you did not anti-seize.
Well done, great video. Do you also have one showing how you sharpen drill bits?
If all hell let loose and things seem like they can't be salvaged, the tungsten and entire glow plug can be removed by using an EDM drill. Some shops have something similar for removing broken taps or siezed bolts. Maybe in the UK the heads are readily available, but here in the States not so much. Never scrap it unless all options are exhausted.
Love your videos. Keep up the great work! Eventually, I'll get an E300 and buy from y'all.
Time served blacksmith one of the first things I was taught was to heat and cool a nut and bolt , to un seize, the cooling of the nut stretches it over the Still expanded bolt , then when the bolt is also cooled, the not will more than likely be hand tight. Another thing I am surprised to see you not using left-handed drills for cleaning threads
Absolutely brilliant work, one thing I will say is get a 1/2 socket. Will make your impact much more effective
This is metric
As this is something that I do on a daily basis on the vehicle - believe me many people are willing to try but only a select few are knowledgeable even in garages. In garages like ypu say in your workshop it takes time and time doing better things like a service or fit a replacement part. So its a specialist job, hence calling q specialist - I have seen many attempts with broken drill bits, easy-outs - do in my opinion it can be the difference of being lucky, having experience or inadvertently scrapping your cylinder head. Your advice and methodology was sound though 👍👌🙏
To prevent an old glow plug snapping in the first place, I agree with you about using an Impact Wrench 100% and in my opinion only use that, nothing else. The is because the reason, I think, it is more likely that an old glow plug may snap is undue side load. I'll try to explain this; So as well as the rotational torque, if you are not careful you can apply a side bending force that will cause the head of the glow plug to bend side ways a little when you apply force. This is made worst if you use longer extension bar on your wrench as this acts as a lever applying more bending force if you are not careful. I suspect it is this force that cause the glow plug head to snap. If the force can be kept purely rotational (i.e. Impact wrench) then I think the old plug will come out without snapping. What do people think agree/disagree?
DieselPumpUK for the win!!
I have my eye on a dedicated vibratory low torque air impact wrench for removing glow plugs, it only uses the torque figures for the glow plugs so it hopefully doesn't snap them
om606, i have to change number 1 and 6 glow plugs. they are stuck, bad. mayby this vid helped enough. wery good and informative, thanks!
Really good video, but I wanted to see how hard the tungsten middle of a glow plug is. So I got one out of my scrap bin which I pulled out of my landrover 300tdi engine a few years ago I sawed it in half with a standard hacksaw blade no problem, so I got a drill bit on and drilled the tungsten aswell which didn't seem that hard
Thanks for sharing your expertise! One day soon I'm going to have to change the glow plugs and injectors on the 3.0 Iveco in my Peugeot Boxer. I know this stuff is going to come in handy and I'm looking forward to it now ......... not :-)
Came across this video today as I have patiently taken the whole day to remove mine and onto the last one that’s moved back and fourth with loads of thread breaker and wd40 and pop snapped past the nut. Currently using a self tapping screwed into the tip (tungsten luckily attached to the top that came out) and have tried pulling it out with not much luck. Have started to remove the front of the van just so I can get a slide hammer on it. Thought I’d have a look online for any tips as although I done this when the engine was hot it doesn’t take long for it to cool down and that carbon turn into what I can only describe as bitumen like hell 😂 Glad I stumbled across it as just for what turned out to be an American Steven hawking impression 😂 you get a follow for that alone and a great video insight 👍🏻
I found the warm engine up first method very usefull . Apart from the rear cylinder . Becouse the oil filter housing hides it and stops you getting the impact wrench in
fire
Luckily the plugs in my 2.7 5 cylinder CLK came straight out! I’d been made aware of the nightmares! And used the small impact.
And yes I fully agree with sharpening drill bits! My mentor a blacksmith called Stan pike. Showed me how to sharpen drills! One skill I’m truly grateful for!!
❤ the videos bud! 🎉🎉❤❤
I had to drill out an injectorbolt of that engine
Its worser then a glowplug
@@bertjetolberg103 the Black Death 💀 luckily I’ve not had to do that yet!!
I am doing PSA diesel injectors. Also doing glow plugs. I'm doing practically the same as you do. Except I use ceramic grease on both injectors and glowplugs.
Thanks for all lessons Tks for along compassions and you’re one of beauty mechanical guy in the same time make job funny and simple hope all the best god blessed you mmm finally get welding 💪🏻.
Heat did it finally .. i do heavily recommend let the plugs soak with motor oil for at least a week before get an attempt on it .. a really good lubricant to get em go is the Kent rust penetrate spray.
Acetone and atf 50/50 is the best penetrative fluid. Just make sure you shake it before you use it as it does separate if stored
Good engineering skills and advice given.
Upside down keyboard duster cans have worked miracles for me in the field on f16's.
I'm considering wrapping the plugs with PTFE plumbers tape when i come to replace mine
Also Bosch has a torque wrench table for each size plug to guarantee you wont snap them
This was so entertaining and helpful, I just subscribed in a moment. I wonder why there are so few subs on the channel 😮
Just found your channel, bloody hell. What a treat this was, subbed and will watch more when i have time 😊
Have you ever tried to install new plugs with a thin coat of ceramic grease? I've learned it really helps when I had an OM606.
I use this on my om642 engine with 6mm glow plugs!
Very good job, no hurry and you got an top result.
Another great video to watch full of knowledge material 👌🏼 I used your previous video as a reference when I did my glow pugs, they were all stuck, I went through the process as you explained and everything went smooth, I managed to extract 5 of 6. I only failed to extract the last one because I'm an idiot, It was already dark, I was really exhausted and instead of calling it a day, go get some rest and carry on the next day I tried to just get it done and didn't remembered to replace the stud I was using to pull the glow plugs out, it was probably already really stretched after removing 5 glow plugs and when I went to extract the last one it snapped inside the glow plug. I tried welding a nut to the top to remove it but I didn't let it cool enough as you mention in your video and jus kept snapping. I got the engine back together and kept using the car in the hope the engine would spit out the glow plug since the threads were already drilled. It's been 2 years 😅😭 Maybe when I get one of your mechanical pumps, a big turbo and some propper boost it will finally come out!
Keep it going man, all the best, I love your work!🤜🏼🤛🏼
Great video. Great skills. It would have got hit with the hammer after 2nd plug 😅. Keep going mate looking forward to next video.
First time viewing your content, loved it and now subscribed.
I bought a 2003 X5 with the M57 and discovered the previous owner snapped 4 of them... I tried everything to get them out, heat, cold, left hand drill bits, easy-outs and managed to remove only 1. They're not really needed on the M57 so I just left them.
If removing glow plugs warm the engine up, find out the shear value and use a torque wrench that will work anti-clockwise. If it won't unscrew then it's time to try something else
Couldn't stop watching
Excellent work Luke . Just wondering though , since the Head was cold , could a Proper Heat Gun be used to heat it .
A Heat Gun can strip Paint so i think it could , given time , produce the Thermal Expansion of the Casting required .
Many years ago an old mechanic showed me that to clean the carbon out of an engine prior to disassembly, you use water. By spraying water into a running engine, the water turns into steam in the combustion chamber and, with enough water and some patience, the steam will clean the carbon out of the engine thus making the cleaning MUCH easier. I don’t know if this process would help, but it can’t hurt.
Congratulations, very high-quality work. Very few mechanics would have the necessary skills or Tig Welder, many years of tig welding experience needed to perform these welds in such a confined place any mistakes and damage to the aluminium head would occur. Personally, I have tigged stainless & and alloy for close to 40 years ,I would cautious doing this repair. I remove my hat to you.
Top man no one likes to do this kind of job. Only thing is that I think is when people have had a good go and get it wrong and they then go to the mechanic or machine shop to get it rectified and they expect it to be quick easy and cheap all because they have got one or two out for themselves but they don't realise how much time it takes to fix what they have done to make a complete mess of it is still going to cost almost the same as it would do before if not a little more because it is always a headache to fix the job they have made twice as hard to do.. but it is a good feeling of achievement if you are successful and not to mention it saves a few quid
We always use a smear of copper kote on glows, injecter threads and anything to do with exhaust manifolds/ turbos and they dont jam up again ever
This is kinda like removing broken exhaust studs from the engine when theyve snapped off below the head surface. I've had to weld nuts on 12 or 13 studs on the side of a V10 blind behind the spring tower before. Took nearly all day but i got em all.
If u see its hard to unscrew, requires a lot of force to do it - u feel like u break them - STOP, just STOP. Put some engine oil on each of these glow plugs - treads. Drive for 2 days. Next day before trying to unscrew them - warm up engine to engine working temperature. Then step by step forward backward try to unscrew them. Dont rush. Slowly.
Done by myself - everything gone great.
I always do that even with injectors. Losen the injector bracket.a tiny bit and spray with plenty of releasing agent. Then i leave it parked up running the get some temp in the engine. A lot of the pressure and heat pushes the stuck injector out onto the bracket. Very costly if you try going hammer and tongs on these things.
As always, informative and entertaining.
Great job !
Have you considered a reverse drill bit for drilling? I've found that alot of bolts that are stuck, happily come out when using reverse drill bits. Thinkinng out loud here; Would putting the entire head in an ultrasonic cleaner assist in getting into the area between the glow plug and the head, or flipping the head upside down and using a carbon deposit cleaner or such around the glow plug to try to loosen the carbon deposits before removing the glow plug?
nice one Luke ,good work there ,its a shame theres not a better way ,trouble with unscrewing them is they dont put em in easy access places ,you saved the head there mate ,think the tig welder was key there ,a mig would of been a bit of a blunt tool
What happens if you do it with the cylinder head still on, what if debris go down the holes. I’ve got 2 on a Fiat Ducato snapped in No 3 and No 4 cylinders, can you just hoover debris out
Very useful video
Thanks
great work , it's funny how your far away from Cleveland OH and some of your slang is exactly the same....
Snapped one on my Movano bought the removal kit but there’s a lump of alli on the head in the way. I’ve just left it until a rainy day
My w110 mercedes 200d never has glow plugs stick and not come out.
But then it has a pre combustion chamber cylinder head designed in the UK by Harry Ricardo.
Ahh yes the not so fun job of glow plug removal... I had to change mine a couple of months ago when I was changing the inlet manifold and I snapped two tips off, luckily it was just the tips to drill and tap out, still a painful job... That's when a friend said only do them when the engine is hot.... Great advice for anyone attempting it themselves...
Hello,
What you did there was fantastic. I need your help. I have a 2012 sprinter 2500 with two glow plugs stuck/broken/drilled badly. I recently took my vehicle for tone up and they recommended the glow plugs to be replaced. out of the 6 they were able to take 4 out/replaced and break #3 and #4. I have taken the vehicle to three other shops and they are saying it's beyond repair and suggesting me to replace the Engine. The shop that caused the damages for me is not taking responsibility. What do you suggest I need to do? what should I do? sending you my head cylinder might not be an option? I live in Washington DC/Virginia, but guiding me to a right path or someone you know in that can do this job in American will help. Please advise.
Thank you!
❤ Thanks we love you you for sending me your important. Very kind of you.❤👍🙏🔥