I used phosphoric on some rebar 8 years ago, to use on the deck rails as balusters. First a soak in phosphoric, then some Rustoleum spray primer, and then a good couple coats of spray undercoating. Those balusters look like new after 8 years out in the Alaskan weather. The acid did a perfect job etching so everything stuck extremely well.
I suggested this morning in a comment that he open up a PayPal or some other account so we can donate money to help him out. TH-cam has a service for this but they take I think 40-50% of what is donated and can’t just take a 3% or so being so greedy. So glad I found his channel. 😊🙏
I'm not a chemist but I think the process turns the rust to iron phosphate. Some firearms use this same method for a finish that deters or prevents rust on steel surfaces. Thanks for video.
I believe you are correct. Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide into iron phosphate. Iron oxide is not water soluble, but iron phosphate is; after the acid has done its work you can wash away the 'rust' with water. The iron phosphate also acts as a good surface for paint to adhere to, and as a dryer for oil based (alkyd) paints. I did this on a rusty old set of scaffold - wire brush (by hand, not motor), phosphoric acid, garden hose, rusty metal primer, and a coat of red enamel. 35 years later after heavy use and outdoor storage the scaffold is scratched and dinged here and there, surface rust in the scratches of course, but still red and still going strong.
Hi, great vid, a couple of interesting facts about phosphoric acid, the end products of this acid and iron oxide (rust) is Iron Phosphate, that is the black color we see, it is very stable and you can paint right over it, the other product is water, so, in general, you are correct, for a strong chemical it is pretty "safe", compared to red fuming nitric acid (don't ask how I know) 😁😁 I like to spray it down with a mix of baking soda and water, about two tablespoons per quart, just to be sure we are 100% neutralized, but that's me, no official studies just gut feeling. Also if someone wants to reduce it, always add the acid to water, never the other way around, and no I am not going to talk about mol's here, just use percentages, or parts, like mixing paint. Thanks for the video, with all of the nonsense that is on the internet about rust removal it is refreshing to find someone who gives practical guidance. Be Well and Successful Blue Mule
@@krhunt1014 when the surface is dry, I wet it down with the baking soda solution. I bought 2 pounds of Sodium Bicarbonate, waayyyy cheaper "Baking Soda". By the way I actually use Ospho for body panels, it has dichromates, and "wetting" agents. The dichromates help with changing the iron oxides into iron phosphate, and the wetting agents help the solution to "stick and spread". This is especially important in body panels and vertical surfaces, but for hard parts, brackets, etc. Yeah the 30% Phosphoric acid and water is the bomb. Be ready to prime, the acid does the chemical reaction on the rust, but you really don't want it to sit without primer. I like to mix a DTM primer, and reduce it to almost a sealer, to just get the surface covered. Anyway more than you asked for, my apologies to "just a hand" for taking over the comments section, I am of German decent so it is in "Die Blut" 😁 Blau Maultier
@@zoneundertop I had no idea there were sooo many choices😀 946.352........ I would just use 1000 ml and call it good, just enough to neutralize and stray acid, and bring the surface to more or less neutral. Remember this is a personal thing, and is not really in any product instructions. But because of the work involved in prepping a car for a good paint job, I don't want any, as Jon Kozmoski would say 'Deterrence" to a good finish. Remember also if you are doing a door, etc. wash it down inside and out. Blue Mule Oh, if you want to see how bad it can get with improper prep, see "my friend pete" and his cutlass disaster, his language is not for the faint of heart though. Also I think Pharraway also had a paint match/prep issue. It is a lot of work on top of a lot of work.
A mechanic warned me about rust on my truck frame. It's not bad, but it's getting there. I was planning to do some elaborate work with wire wheel, which wouldn't get to numerous places. This method will save me a lot of trouble. Also, the warning in the comments about avoiding it on spring steel may be very important, so kudos there, too.
Great video and idea!! As a NY state resident rust is a big expense up here…. I’m so glad I saw this …. Because I’m making it and using it on my rusting expensive vehicles…. Thank you kindly soldier! Semper Fi!
I have just about gotten away from chemicals with the exception of a few cases where electrolysis isn't feasible. Electrolysis is clean and doesn't miss the smallest hidden spot. I enjoyed the video and will use your idear where needed.
Doing a driveby and saw this video ! I need to an Idaho truck and was ready to call a body shop.. I gotta try this. Great comments and thanks for your efforts and clarifying
I used ospho years ago when helping build a dock out of thin I- beams steel. We painted after with 3M epoxy primer. The beams were secured to large tubular floats The floats were later removed and the frame work was suspended with winches. It didnt rust for years.
I have used that product and it's probably the most effective on the market. But it's only 18% concentrate and I wanted something with a little more kick to it for a fraction of the price. I can make 9 gallons for the price of 1 gallon of their product and it's three times stronger so therefore it could be diluted to 27 gallons for the same price as 1. The chemical makeup is almost identical.
An aside: Don't use this on spring steel (springs) - it changes the grain structure of the steel and cause them to break because of stress concentrators in any pit and because of the grain structure change itself. (Just wire them off.) Same applies to roller chains because of the case hardened steel.
Well, I've just done this treatment to coil springs, we shall soon see what happens... The coils are relatively thick, and I'm not entirely convinced the acid can penetrate very deep into the metal. Surely it will affect the surface layer, but the whole spring, dunno..,
I can't explain being the repeat offender - coming back to this video - watching again and again. Eventually i hope to get this engrained into my thoughts like a veteran deruster. Bypassing thoughts of sandblasting, brushing for a long steel wire bristling time, buying rust converter and all those other styles like sandpaper, needle scaling, dropping from high rise structures or towing parts along a sandy beach behind the car. To keep it all in house and efficient. Great video.
😆 I've been doing it the easy way for many years. It doesn't work in every situation but it works in most. It's not an alternative to sandblasting because there's still times that that is more effective
Thanks very much for this extremely helpful instructional video. It solves a very common problem, saves money and time, Brilliant !! Much appreciated !
Did paint & body for 35 years, used that method all the time but take note, many epoxy primers and most body fillers are not to be applied directly to the acid etched surface. Some can but many suggest abrasive cleaning, sand blasting or grinding.
Thanks for the tips, especially not using etching primer because of body filler. That one might have saved my paint job and I will use epoxy primer. I have a very important question about the seals and gaskets. Is there any deterioration on seals and such? I want to spray down a semi truck rear end after some pressure washer sand blasting of the frame prior to priming and paint. There are electrical wires and plastic air brake lines, and a couple brass fittings. I release you from any liability, just would appreciate your opinion. I did some grinding and where I did the metal flash rusted quickly.
I've never had any kind of problem with stuff like that. It's not that corrosive of an acid. Would you be concerned if you poured Coke on it? It also contains the same chemical
Thank you. I have used concrete etcher. It's cheap and works hands down. It dissolves and neutralizes rust. Put in spray bottle and saturate heavily. Let it sit overnight. Money
Well done, your video was excellent and very clear in spite of the things you consider to be errors.. your message definitely got through and your ideas are great thank you
Yep phospric acid is the active ingreadient in a product called Rust Buster. Ever since ive been looking for Phospric acid its sky rocketed in price as more people become aware of this. Should be ok with Metholated spririt huh. Also Rust Buster ssys to clean off any extra resedue with a damp cloth after before painting over. Also says take back the heavy scale rust before application. Becarfull ive left this sitting in a tin bowel over night and it ate holes straight through. So be mindful of where and how to apply it. Use test pieces.
Seeing as soft drinks contain phosphoric acid and they come in a tin can I can't see how that is possible. That product must have something else in it that caused this
@@justahandchannel soft drinks generally come in aluminium cans. Tin (the actual metal) is rarely used these days, but people still refer to things as tin (such as steel cans and cups) even if they aren't actually tin. And aluminium soft drink cans (and most steel cans with food in then ) have a very thin plastic liner in then to prevent any acids reacting with the can.
Thank you for your great video, just when I needed it! I certainly will use it on quite a few items I have here that surface rust is an issue. Merry Christmas to you,!
looks like it works great. What proportions of the two solutions are you using? I can buy 60% phosphoric acid and I can buy a solution of 5% ethyl alcohol but how many parts acid and how many parts alcohol? And what is the alcohol used for in this mix?
Yes. It doesn't have to be 60% concentrate. Ospho is only 18%. What I forgot to mention in the video is you can dilute the formula to a third strength with water as well
When I owned my Chrome plating business I was liscenced into buy chemicals and acids at industrial percentages. Like Muriatic and Nitric and sulphuric and phosphoric. When used at industrial strength the Phosphoric would smoke on ferris materials and instantly turn the iron black. With my Chrome business and boat mfg business I had to run a serious gambit with the state fire marshal staff to qualify the purchase and storage and use of those chemicals. Now at 80 years old and retired I don"t know where to get these products in industrial strength to use in my home shop. Do you? Thanks Dandahermit
I can testify this is really good stuff! One thing I'd add is use this outside, or wear a respirator with a good filter. Got myself a nasty cough using this inside... Locally (Finland) this is also availlable in gel form, so it really sticks to all kinds of forms.
For me, it's about preserving history. I want to bring back as many as I can so that when I'm long gone, those cars are my legacy and the little impact I made in the world.
Your SPOT ON using epoxy primer... sadly governments have removed the “ Chromated” epoxy primer... The only thing that degraded that was ultraviolet! Great video, THANKS‼️🇨🇦👍
I just spent over thirty dollars for a small can of etching primer,which works very well,I must say,but I can't wait to try your formula. Thanks for reminding me how hard it can be on painted surfaces. Thanks also for your easy-going manner. That's my speed. Loved your video and am looking forward to seeing more,Lester. By the way, I noticed a Tim's cup. Are you Canadian?
Great tip, thank you!! I went thru all the comments and a few people asked my same question, what is the purpose of the alcohol? Is it to facilitate evaporation??
I use it in the sun, the shade, the snow, the rain, the hot, the cold, in the dark, in the light, in a box with a fox, wearing socks. It doesn't really matter. It does the same thing no matter where you use it. As far as keeping it wet, that's not necessary at all. Once you've made contact it's over. It's just a matter of time
My method is using HCl in a spray bottle, using rubber gloves and eye protection. After rust is dissolved, I rinse it off with a water baking soda mix, don't use only water or it will flash rust after drying.
I am advised by another youtuber - someone who has used this for years in a commercial operation, so perhaps every week - the concentration of phosphoric works better if it is 8 - 12 percent. This is because you need Hydrogen ions in the water to be added and free moving, for maximum efficiency. This affects greatly the reaction that takes place. Cut the phosphoric with water - adding the acid to the water not the other way round. And - do NOT wash off with water. The only acid you don't remove with water - the acid binds to the surface and protects. Be particularly careful if considering applying to threads and springs.
I concur that exposure to oxygen is essential, however, the concentration of acid does not directly influence the level of oxygen exposure achieved. This assertion lacks logical basis. While dilution may be attempted, for optimal outcomes in the treatment of severe rust, I recommend adhering to my prescribed method.
Great information. We used to buy a paint in red oxide or grey color dubbed PA14. First the concentration was reduced following complaints about the strength of phos acid. It certainly etched well and destroyed any surface rust beneath it permanently. Anyway this you provided is great honest information and i presume the remaining 35% is H2O. Thanks.
@@justahandchannel I have a rusty old machine that's going to get the treatment all over the piece. The name says TEREX. I must have been the only man thick enough to attempt it. But I'll do more than attempt it. It's a commitment now.
This is awesome. I had considered sand blasting the surface rust of an old trailer frame I'm restoring. However, after watching this, I plan to use you secret formula. BTW, don't worry about your hair. At least you still have yours. 🤣
I’ve used 85% phosphoric acid for years on vehicles , I brush or spray it on welds and new steel leave it to dry and then just wire brush and residue off before epoxy primer , I have found it way longer for rust to appear if it even does . I also add it to oil or waxoyl before spraying into chassis or body cavities or even the outside of chassis seems to work great
my guy. This is 4 u. Save oil, trans fluid from services or get a quart of each from friend. Get a tube of grease and 1 wax ring gasket for toilet or 2. Mix and heat in old pot and spray this. I'm 3rd gen who uses this. I use on customers cars. It lasts years and years and costs $10. If that. I've tried and tested blaster, wool wax, fluid film, etc. All work, BUT they have no petroleum products in them. The old farmer trick of used oil and dusty road etc is true. But add a few more things and it's about perfect. I knock off scale and heavy, Ospho it, and then use JD equipment black with hardner, or farm implement paint with hardner, or Eastwoods chassis saver etc. Then bought a cheap undercoating sprayer online or make urr own easily and spray that crap everywhere. My Pap used it, Dad uses it, I use it. It really works very very well. Since cash for clunkers, leaders in wash, a good auto is thousands. Add rust from salt and cars last less than a decade. With this u can make them last as long as they run. Have a gr8 day. I don't know it all but being a car guy, antique guy who's sandblasted, restored, painted alot of crap with wheels, tracks, or just metal, without killing rust, and gr8 base, paint, and oil based wax, it won't last long.
@@krashanb5767 Any. A tube that goes in a grease gun, a tub like u use for packing bearings or use on like brake sliders etc. If u get cheap or on sale grease, with used oil and trans fluid, u can do a auto for less than $8. I mean I've tried about all wax products and yes they work but compared to this mix it's night n day.
@@krashanb5767 Also if urr serious about this look into master coat rust prevention coating. It's not alot of $$ and it was designed to work on bridges in NJ. It's about tge best u can buy. But if u really kill the rust, and get some good layers between the metal and the elements, it'll last a long time.
Good video, but I missed something here.... 1. Take 60 percent concentrate phosphric acid and 5 percent ethyl alcohol. 2. What I dont under stand is that, is the ethyl alcohol concentration 5% or its the ratio of mixing both liquids( I mean mix 95% phosphoric acid to 5% ethyl alcohol??) or 5% is just the strength of the ethyl alcohol? Can someone help?
I'm guessing too, but it seems the 60% is the concentration of the acid (does vary by brand) and probably it is 95% of blend with 5% pure ethyl alcohol, which I believe is also called ethanol.
@@rob12449 Yeah, the same guy made the second video to clarify the ratio. He said the 5% Ethyl alcohol is the hand sanitizer, which further confuses the issue. I would buy both the liquids, then mix them in front of the camera to remove all doubts.
5% of the total volume (mixture) is the ethyl alcohol used as a thickener to help the spray cling to the metal. I would assume xanthan gum would work as well
I've used the method you have here. I would sudjest to not use a zinc coatings or paint with acrilic paint due to residue attack. Appropriate coating would be enamel paints.
BIG Thank you for this ! I live in Northern Maine where we sand and salt the roads. We often undercoat with fluild film or wool wax. I have a truck I want to clean up some existing rust. I will use this method , do you see any problem with then going over with wool wax ? Thank you , you’re awesome I just subscribed.
Also plain citric acid solution is great for submerging smaller parts, or if you can keep the area wet with it using paper towels. Wash off with concentrated tea - yes tea - for the tannins to prevent it flash rusting. (Tannin in vac-tan and fer-tan).
Finally, someone else that understands how to use, and where to buy phosphoric acid. Also thank you for the heads up on the Milk Stone remover...I am pretty sure I can buy that here in Saskatchewan.
Question: If spraying under a vehicle to remove accumulated rust will it harm plastics and wiring? Also is it necessary to cover areas treated with epoxy primer instead of just using a good undercoating alone?
I've never encountered any issues spraying with wiring and plastic around the area. As far as epoxy or undercoating, that's your choice. My directions are directed to cars being restored but if it's just a daily driver then go for it.
Thank you for your time and knowledge! I'm ready to try this... But before I spray down my 67 Grand Prix; my question is.... Is it necessary to use primer after magic rust remover... SPECIFICALLY EPOXY PRIMER? Any particular epoxy primer you recommend?
Do you know if this effective on scaled rust such as under a truck? I have a 20year old truck with heavy rust I would like to arrest. My thought is if this will “clean” the metal enough for me to put a protective coating on it (I.e. NHUC).
If it's very scaly I would recommend at least take a wire brush to it to get anything loose off. Ultimately a wire wheel on a grinder can do a pretty good job of smoothing it down first and then apply the product and you will get much better results
I can easily fine 95% or 70% ethyl alcohol but where do you find 5% ethyl alcohol and what is the purpose? If to dilute, water would have the same effect on the acid concentration. Could you please explain.
I am a bit confused about the mix. Do we purchase a bottle of 60% phosphoric acid and a bottle of 5% ethyl alcohol if so at what proportions do we mis the two. Does it matter? Thank you 1:36
I used phosphoric on some rebar 8 years ago, to use on the deck rails as balusters. First a soak in phosphoric, then some Rustoleum spray primer, and then a good couple coats of spray undercoating. Those balusters look like new after 8 years out in the Alaskan weather. The acid did a perfect job etching so everything stuck extremely well.
Thanks for watching my channel
This man out here with a disability putting in more work than able bodied people. Respect sir. I will use this tip. Much appreciated
Thank you for your support!
Amen. Use it or lose it in my book. 50 years, staring down genetic barrel of Parkinson's and Alzheimers myself. I'm a weekend wrench turner.
@@gearheadgregwi Awesome!!
I suggested this morning in a comment that he open up a PayPal or some other account so we can donate money to help him out. TH-cam has a service for this but they take I think 40-50% of what is donated and can’t just take a 3% or so being so greedy. So glad I found his channel. 😊🙏
@@gearheadgregwihang in there and very sorry your having to go through this. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'm not a chemist but I think the process turns the rust to iron phosphate. Some firearms use this same method for a finish that deters or prevents rust on steel surfaces. Thanks for video.
No, that's rust converters. Phosphoric acid is a rust destroyer. 2 different animals, I use both depending. I like the converters on light rust.
I believe you are correct. Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide into iron phosphate. Iron oxide is not water soluble, but iron phosphate is; after the acid has done its work you can wash away the 'rust' with water. The iron phosphate also acts as a good surface for paint to adhere to, and as a dryer for oil based (alkyd) paints. I did this on a rusty old set of scaffold - wire brush (by hand, not motor), phosphoric acid, garden hose, rusty metal primer, and a coat of red enamel. 35 years later after heavy use and outdoor storage the scaffold is scratched and dinged here and there, surface rust in the scratches of course, but still red and still going strong.
Do you have to neutralize it with water before priming?
@@RobertLBarnard IDK, but I always do.......
Not necessary.
Hi, great vid, a couple of interesting facts about phosphoric acid, the end products of this acid and iron oxide (rust) is Iron Phosphate, that is the black color we see, it is very stable and you can paint right over it, the other product is water, so, in general, you are correct, for a strong chemical it is pretty "safe", compared to red fuming nitric acid (don't ask how I know) 😁😁 I like to spray it down with a mix of baking soda and water, about two tablespoons per quart, just to be sure we are 100% neutralized, but that's me, no official studies just gut feeling. Also if someone wants to reduce it, always add the acid to water, never the other way around, and no I am not going to talk about mol's here, just use percentages, or parts, like mixing paint. Thanks for the video, with all of the nonsense that is on the internet about rust removal it is refreshing to find someone who gives practical guidance.
Be Well and Successful
Blue Mule
How long do you wait before you spray it with baking soda? Thanks
How many mls per your quart? 940, 1130 or 1200mls.
@@krhunt1014 when the surface is dry, I wet it down with the baking soda solution. I bought 2 pounds of Sodium Bicarbonate, waayyyy cheaper "Baking Soda". By the way I actually use Ospho for body panels, it has dichromates, and "wetting" agents. The dichromates help with changing the iron oxides into iron phosphate, and the wetting agents help the solution to "stick and spread". This is especially important in body panels and vertical surfaces, but for hard parts, brackets, etc. Yeah the 30% Phosphoric acid and water is the bomb. Be ready to prime, the acid does the chemical reaction on the rust, but you really don't want it to sit without primer. I like to mix a DTM primer, and reduce it to almost a sealer, to just get the surface covered. Anyway more than you asked for, my apologies to "just a hand" for taking over the comments section, I am of German decent so it is in "Die Blut" 😁
Blau Maultier
@@zoneundertop I had no idea there were sooo many choices😀 946.352........ I would just use 1000 ml and call it good, just enough to neutralize and stray acid, and bring the surface to more or less neutral. Remember this is a personal thing, and is not really in any product instructions. But because of the work involved in prepping a car for a good paint job, I don't want any, as Jon Kozmoski would say 'Deterrence" to a good finish. Remember also if you are doing a door, etc. wash it down inside and out.
Blue Mule
Oh, if you want to see how bad it can get with improper prep, see "my friend pete" and his cutlass disaster, his language is not for the faint of heart though. Also I think Pharraway also had a paint match/prep issue.
It is a lot of work on top of a lot of work.
Thank you for your support
A mechanic warned me about rust on my truck frame. It's not bad, but it's getting there. I was planning to do some elaborate work with wire wheel, which wouldn't get to numerous places. This method will save me a lot of trouble. Also, the warning in the comments about avoiding it on spring steel may be very important, so kudos there, too.
Great video and idea!! As a NY state resident rust is a big expense up here…. I’m so glad I saw this …. Because I’m making it and using it on my rusting expensive vehicles…. Thank you kindly soldier! Semper Fi!
You're very welcome and welcome to the channel
Thank you Sir!! Working on old vehicles just got easier!!
Glad to help
Very well spoken young man ,enjoyed your tutorial a lot and will try it soon.
Thank you very much
I have just about gotten away from chemicals with the exception of a few cases where electrolysis isn't feasible. Electrolysis is clean and doesn't miss the smallest hidden spot. I enjoyed the video and will use your idear where needed.
Doing a driveby and saw this video ! I need to an Idaho truck and was ready to call a body shop.. I gotta try this. Great comments and thanks for your efforts and clarifying
You're welcome
I used ospho years ago when helping build a dock out of thin I- beams steel. We painted after with 3M epoxy primer. The beams were secured to large tubular floats The floats were later removed and the frame work was suspended with winches. It didnt rust for years.
I have used that product and it's probably the most effective on the market. But it's only 18% concentrate and I wanted something with a little more kick to it for a fraction of the price. I can make 9 gallons for the price of 1 gallon of their product and it's three times stronger so therefore it could be diluted to 27 gallons for the same price as 1. The chemical makeup is almost identical.
@@justahandchannel That's awesome sauce in my book!
An aside: Don't use this on spring steel (springs) - it changes the grain structure of the steel and cause them to break because of stress concentrators in any pit and because of the grain structure change itself. (Just wire them off.) Same applies to roller chains because of the case hardened steel.
Thanks for adding that
@@justahandchannel your comment was meant to reply to @Gerald-ge3or below. I am only here to connect the dots. Thank you.
In the case of valve springs, rust alone is cause for replacement.
Thank you for making this video.
Well, I've just done this treatment to coil springs, we shall soon see what happens...
The coils are relatively thick, and I'm not entirely convinced the acid can penetrate very deep into the metal. Surely it will affect the surface layer, but the whole spring, dunno..,
Thank you. Looking forward to seeing that next project.
More to come!
I can't explain being the repeat offender - coming back to this video - watching again and again. Eventually i hope to get this engrained into my thoughts like a veteran deruster. Bypassing thoughts of sandblasting, brushing for a long steel wire bristling time, buying rust converter and all those other styles like sandpaper, needle scaling, dropping from high rise structures or towing parts along a sandy beach behind the car. To keep it all in house and efficient. Great video.
😆 I've been doing it the easy way for many years. It doesn't work in every situation but it works in most. It's not an alternative to sandblasting because there's still times that that is more effective
My old lady is thinkin about sprayin that crap on my rusty old nuts..
@@justahandchannel2
Would this be any good on a transit chasis underbody?
Of course.
Wow! I tried it and it works perfectly! Blessings from Australia 🦘
Wonderful!
Thanks for making the video. Very interesting concept, I had not seen it before.
No worries!
Great tips congratulations on your channel you're an inspiration for thousands of people, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much. that means a lot to me.
Cool I've been using prep and etch concrete home depot or Lowe's $20 a gallon ...will try making my own now with your tips....you have a new sub.
Thank you for your support
Keep sharing this great knowledge !! Absolutely appreciated.
Thanks, will do!
OK, I like your video as it has a lot of factual information and will definitely try the mixture! Much appreciated ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Anyone working on a big block Mopar always gets my attention. Good presentation my friend. Just subbed.
Thanks for joining me
I’m going to farm store right away.. I appreciate your videos “great info always”
Thank you. Please keep watching us
Thank you! I will show this to all my friends
Awesome, thank you!
Quick and easy and CHEAP!! Great work!
Thanks! 👍
Greetings from UK you are an inspiration thank you😊
Wow, thank you!
Thanks very much for this extremely helpful instructional video. It solves a very common problem, saves money and time, Brilliant !! Much appreciated !
Great to hear! You are welcome!
Did paint & body for 35 years, used that method all the time but take note, many epoxy primers and most body fillers are not to be applied directly to the acid etched surface. Some can but many suggest abrasive cleaning, sand blasting or grinding.
I've only used two projects which is PPG amerlock and SPI and neither of those products have any kind of reaction
Thanks for the tips, especially not using etching primer because of body filler. That one might have saved my paint job and I will use epoxy primer.
I have a very important question about the seals and gaskets. Is there any deterioration on seals and such? I want to spray down a semi truck rear end after some pressure washer sand blasting of the frame prior to priming and paint. There are electrical wires and plastic air brake lines, and a couple brass fittings. I release you from any liability, just would appreciate your opinion. I did some grinding and where I did the metal flash rusted quickly.
I've never had any kind of problem with stuff like that. It's not that corrosive of an acid. Would you be concerned if you poured Coke on it? It also contains the same chemical
Thank you. I have used concrete etcher. It's cheap and works hands down. It dissolves and neutralizes rust. Put in spray bottle and saturate heavily. Let it sit overnight. Money
Well done, your video was excellent and very clear in spite of the things you consider to be errors.. your message definitely got through and your ideas are great thank you
Thanks for that!!
im in fla. we havesome stuff called Foz . very similar to what you have but pricey. it turns the rust black and you can paint right over it.
I'm glad I could introduce you to a cheaper alternative
Yep phospric acid is the active ingreadient in a product called Rust Buster. Ever since ive been looking for Phospric acid its sky rocketed in price as more people become aware of this. Should be ok with Metholated spririt huh.
Also Rust Buster ssys to clean off any extra resedue with a damp cloth after before painting over.
Also says take back the heavy scale rust before application.
Becarfull ive left this sitting in a tin bowel over night and it ate holes straight through. So be mindful of where and how to apply it. Use test pieces.
Seeing as soft drinks contain phosphoric acid and they come in a tin can I can't see how that is possible. That product must have something else in it that caused this
@@justahandchannel must be %
@@justahandchannel Ill also add that you wouldnt drink Rustbuster im sure.
@@justahandchannel soft drinks generally come in aluminium cans. Tin (the actual metal) is rarely used these days, but people still refer to things as tin (such as steel cans and cups) even if they aren't actually tin. And aluminium soft drink cans (and most steel cans with food in then ) have a very thin plastic liner in then to prevent any acids reacting with the can.
Thank you for your great video, just when I needed it! I certainly will use it on quite a few items I have here that surface rust is an issue. Merry Christmas to you,!
Thanks. Merry Christmas to you as well!
Thanks for the video, anxious to use this method.
You are welcome!
looks like it works great. What proportions of the two solutions are you using? I can buy 60% phosphoric acid and I can buy a solution of 5% ethyl alcohol but how many parts acid and how many parts alcohol? And what is the alcohol used for in this mix?
Please watch this video for more detail
th-cam.com/video/M8A_jmYDuZ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mswcS0UQQiTW1OjZ
Nice tip, will need this in the near future thanks.
So 60% concentrate phosphoric Acid mixed with 5% Ethel Alcohol.
Yes. It doesn't have to be 60% concentrate. Ospho is only 18%. What I forgot to mention in the video is you can dilute the formula to a third strength with water as well
@@justahandchannel what is the phosphoric acid/ethyl alcohol mix ratio?
Like rubbing alcohol ?
When I owned my Chrome plating business I was liscenced into buy chemicals and acids at industrial percentages. Like Muriatic and Nitric and sulphuric and phosphoric. When used at industrial strength the Phosphoric would smoke on ferris materials and instantly turn the iron black. With my Chrome business and boat mfg business I had to run a serious gambit with the state fire marshal staff to qualify the purchase and storage and use of those chemicals. Now at 80 years old and retired I don"t know where to get these products in industrial strength to use in my home shop. Do you? Thanks Dandahermit
Can you use this on a somewhat rusted gas line?
I can testify this is really good stuff! One thing I'd add is use this outside, or wear a respirator with a good filter. Got myself a nasty cough using this inside...
Locally (Finland) this is also availlable in gel form, so it really sticks to all kinds of forms.
Very interesting need to try this out on the car. Question for you do i need the Ethel alcohol or ok to use 60/40 water? Thanks
You can use it without the alcohol but it won't have the same effect.
That 4 bolt Mopar water pump was used on early V8's , even 440's ! What a simple design !
MOPAR! No replacement for displacement.
This is what makes older vehicles great & should set a standard to recycle older cars/trucks & not make new, unreliable, and inferior vehicles.
For me, it's about preserving history. I want to bring back as many as I can so that when I'm long gone, those cars are my legacy and the little impact I made in the world.
@@justahandchannel Your channel as well!
Thank you for the great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips brother. Best wishes from Australia 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Your SPOT ON using epoxy primer... sadly governments have removed the “ Chromated” epoxy primer... The only thing that degraded that was ultraviolet! Great video, THANKS‼️🇨🇦👍
I just spent over thirty dollars for a small can of etching primer,which works very well,I must say,but I can't wait to try your formula. Thanks for reminding me how hard it can be on painted surfaces. Thanks also for your easy-going manner. That's my speed. Loved your video and am looking forward to seeing more,Lester. By the way, I noticed a Tim's cup. Are you Canadian?
Yeah I'm Canadian. Thanks for watching eh 😁
Great tip, thank you!! I went thru all the comments and a few people asked my same question, what is the purpose of the alcohol? Is it to facilitate evaporation??
It is a solvent used to help Prepare the metal
You want it to stay wet as long as possible, as when dry it does nothing. I use the stuff in the shade for that reason.
I use it in the sun, the shade, the snow, the rain, the hot, the cold, in the dark, in the light, in a box with a fox, wearing socks. It doesn't really matter. It does the same thing no matter where you use it. As far as keeping it wet, that's not necessary at all. Once you've made contact it's over. It's just a matter of time
@@justahandchannel But it works better if kept wet.
I had asked about mixing ratios\ no need to answer! I found the mix ratio vid! Thanks
You got it!
My method is using HCl in a spray bottle, using rubber gloves and eye protection. After rust is dissolved, I rinse it off with a water baking soda mix, don't use only water or it will flash rust after drying.
Definitely will try this, looks amazing. Thank you 👍🏼
My pleasure 😊
I am advised by another youtuber - someone who has used this for years in a commercial operation, so perhaps every week - the concentration of phosphoric works better if it is 8 - 12 percent. This is because you need Hydrogen ions in the water to be added and free moving, for maximum efficiency. This affects greatly the reaction that takes place. Cut the phosphoric with water - adding the acid to the water not the other way round. And - do NOT wash off with water. The only acid you don't remove with water - the acid binds to the surface and protects. Be particularly careful if considering applying to threads and springs.
I concur that exposure to oxygen is essential, however, the concentration of acid does not directly influence the level of oxygen exposure achieved. This assertion lacks logical basis. While dilution may be attempted, for optimal outcomes in the treatment of severe rust, I recommend adhering to my prescribed method.
Dude, I could give a crap about your hair! Thanks for the info and keep up the good work! God is good!
I appreciate that!! Thanks
Great information. We used to buy a paint in red oxide or grey color dubbed PA14. First the concentration was reduced following complaints about the strength of phos acid. It certainly etched well and destroyed any surface rust beneath it permanently. Anyway this you provided is great honest information and i presume the remaining 35% is H2O. Thanks.
It's 60% phosphoric acid and 40% water. Then you add 5% volume of the whole mix of acid and water of ethyl alcohol.
@@justahandchannel I have a rusty old machine that's going to get the treatment all over the piece. The name says TEREX. I must have been the only man thick enough to attempt it. But I'll do more than attempt it. It's a commitment now.
TEREX = @@jackrichards1863 TORQ MONSTER...
Like a piece of earth moving equipment?
Thanks for passing on your knowledge. Im gotta make up a batch of this soon. Sray safe and well. Cheers buddy. 🇮🇪
This is awesome. I had considered sand blasting the surface rust of an old trailer frame I'm restoring. However, after watching this, I plan to use you secret formula. BTW, don't worry about your hair. At least you still have yours. 🤣
Thanks
Thank you for posting this. What are the ratios of the acid to alcohol?
95% and 5%
@@justahandchannel What a great Video!
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it. Please follow along for more great videos
I’ve used 85% phosphoric acid for years on vehicles , I brush or spray it on welds and new steel leave it to dry and then just wire brush and residue off before epoxy primer , I have found it way longer for rust to appear if it even does . I also add it to oil or waxoyl before spraying into chassis or body cavities or even the outside of chassis seems to work great
my guy. This is 4 u. Save oil, trans fluid from services or get a quart of each from friend. Get a tube of grease and 1 wax ring gasket for toilet or 2. Mix and heat in old pot and spray this. I'm 3rd gen who uses this. I use on customers cars. It lasts years and years and costs $10. If that. I've tried and tested blaster, wool wax, fluid film, etc. All work, BUT they have no petroleum products in them. The old farmer trick of used oil and dusty road etc is true. But add a few more things and it's about perfect. I knock off scale and heavy, Ospho it, and then use JD equipment black with hardner, or farm implement paint with hardner, or Eastwoods chassis saver etc. Then bought a cheap undercoating sprayer online or make urr own easily and spray that crap everywhere. My Pap used it, Dad uses it, I use it. It really works very very well. Since cash for clunkers, leaders in wash, a good auto is thousands. Add rust from salt and cars last less than a decade. With this u can make them last as long as they run. Have a gr8 day. I don't know it all but being a car guy, antique guy who's sandblasted, restored, painted alot of crap with wheels, tracks, or just metal, without killing rust, and gr8 base, paint, and oil based wax, it won't last long.
@jasonchristopher2977 what kind of grease for this mixture?
@@krashanb5767 Any. A tube that goes in a grease gun, a tub like u use for packing bearings or use on like brake sliders etc. If u get cheap or on sale grease, with used oil and trans fluid, u can do a auto for less than $8. I mean I've tried about all wax products and yes they work but compared to this mix it's night n day.
@@krashanb5767 Also if urr serious about this look into master coat rust prevention coating. It's not alot of $$ and it was designed to work on bridges in NJ. It's about tge best u can buy. But if u really kill the rust, and get some good layers between the metal and the elements, it'll last a long time.
Why used oil? Wouldn't contaminates be detrimental?
Dang very cool man, will use that on my charger project for sure!! Road-Restoring a 69 440 charger....very very rusty, this will help a ton!
Very cool car. Glad I could help
Thank you. A very interesting and informative video. Best to you. Keep up a good job.😊
Thank you!
Good video, but I missed something here....
1. Take 60 percent concentrate phosphric acid
and 5 percent ethyl alcohol.
2. What I dont under stand is that, is the ethyl alcohol concentration 5% or its the ratio of mixing both liquids( I mean mix 95% phosphoric acid to 5% ethyl alcohol??)
or 5% is just the strength of the ethyl alcohol? Can someone help?
I'm guessing too, but it seems the 60% is the concentration of the acid (does vary by brand) and probably it is 95% of blend with 5% pure ethyl alcohol, which I believe is also called ethanol.
The phosphoric acid i use is 60% concentrate. Mix whatever concentrate you have at 19 parts and add 1 part ethyl alcohol.
@@rob12449 Yeah, the same guy made the second video to clarify the ratio. He said the 5% Ethyl alcohol is the hand sanitizer, which further confuses the issue. I would buy both the liquids, then mix them in front of the camera to remove all doubts.
I did exactly that in the second video.
5% of the total volume (mixture) is the ethyl alcohol used as a thickener to help the spray cling to the metal. I would assume xanthan gum would work as well
I've used the method you have here. I would sudjest to not use a zinc coatings or paint with acrilic paint due to residue attack.
Appropriate coating would be enamel paints.
If you use a good epoxy then you can topcoat with any paint and be confident it will not rust again...ever!!
Thank you for sharing this tip
No problem 👍
its def safe for the enviro. water imm dilutes it to a neutral base and thus harmless. great vid sir ! stormyjoe
Thanks again!
Thanks for this! Great info
Glad it was helpful!
Just what I needed for the frame on my truck thank you
You're welcome
I too have some rusty Mopar parts, thank you. New subscriber.
Thanks for the sub!
I think rust was standard factory stuff with MOPAR.😁
@@wymple09 Cast iron will rust !
@@Flussig1 LOL, just pulling your chain
Nice job going to try this thanks
No problem!
Thank you for sharing this great information
Glad it was helpful!
Will isopropyl alcohol work as well or does it have to be ethyl alcohol?
I've never used isopropyl alcohol so I'm not sure but you can use hand sanitizer which God knows plenty of us have lots of that left over
What is the mix ratios please . 60% & 5% , I'm confused or maybe I just don't follow directions well lol, thanks for the vid sir
60%+5% =65% - I’m guessing rest 35% is water…… diluted in water ……?
I like it. But what is the ratio of acid to alcohol? I assume 60 % is the strength of the acid, not the recipe?
I just found your reply under jackrichards comment. 60% acid, 40% water, then add 5% alcohol.
Please watch the new video I have made explaining in detail
th-cam.com/video/M8A_jmYDuZ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mswcS0UQQiTW1OjZ
Thanks for the video. Good info.
You are welcome
Great video thanks 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great pro tip... Thanks for sharing 😎👌
You're welcome
BIG Thank you for this ! I live in Northern Maine where we sand and salt the roads. We often undercoat with fluild film or wool wax. I have a truck I want to clean up some existing rust. I will use this method , do you see any problem with then going over with wool wax ? Thank you , you’re awesome I just subscribed.
I've never used that product before, but I didn't see it being an issue. Thanks for joining
Excellence. Thanks
You are welcome!
Nice video! Looks like it works quite well. Cheers!
Yep it's the best thing I've found. I spent a lot of time researching and learning this stuff.
Great! Thanks for the video, I'm going to subscribe looking forward to more!
Thanks for the sub!
Also plain citric acid solution is great for submerging smaller parts, or if you can keep the area wet with it using paper towels. Wash off with concentrated tea - yes tea - for the tannins to prevent it flash rusting. (Tannin in vac-tan and fer-tan).
Citric acid works great on light surface rust but not as effective on deep embedded rust we get in Ontario
Great idea thank you very much
You’re welcome 😊
Great video!
Thanks!
Finally, someone else that understands how to use, and where to buy phosphoric acid.
Also thank you for the heads up on the Milk Stone remover...I am pretty sure I can buy that here in Saskatchewan.
Glad it was helpful!
is it necessary to wash these parts off with water to remove the residue before painting , or do you just prep with acetone before painting ?
You want to clean the part from grease and dirt before you use the spray but then afterwards you can just paint
This sounds like a great solution. What ratio do you mix he two chemicals? I am ready to mix some up and get some great looking metal....
This video will clarify all your questions. Thanks .
th-cam.com/video/M8A_jmYDuZ0/w-d-xo.html
Good job keep em coming 👍
Thanks, will do!
Question: If spraying under a vehicle to remove accumulated rust will it harm plastics and wiring? Also is it necessary to cover areas treated with epoxy primer instead of just using a good undercoating alone?
I've never encountered any issues spraying with wiring and plastic around the area. As far as epoxy or undercoating, that's your choice. My directions are directed to cars being restored but if it's just a daily driver then go for it.
Thank you for your time and knowledge!
I'm ready to try this... But before I spray down my 67 Grand Prix;
my question is.... Is it necessary to use primer after magic rust remover... SPECIFICALLY EPOXY PRIMER?
Any particular epoxy primer you recommend?
I would strongly recommend using epoxy if you want the car to last for some time. The brand I use is called SPI.
@@justahandchannel thank you
@talesfromthehood5374 no worries
136000 plus views in 1 month excellent video.
I hope the whole world can see it so I can save everyone lots of money and Blood Sweat and Tears
Do you know if this effective on scaled rust such as under a truck? I have a 20year old truck with heavy rust I would like to arrest. My thought is if this will “clean” the metal enough for me to put a protective coating on it (I.e. NHUC).
If it's very scaly I would recommend at least take a wire brush to it to get anything loose off. Ultimately a wire wheel on a grinder can do a pretty good job of smoothing it down first and then apply the product and you will get much better results
I can easily fine 95% or 70% ethyl alcohol but where do you find 5% ethyl alcohol and what is the purpose? If to dilute, water would have the same effect on the acid concentration. Could you please explain.
That's total volume of alcohol in a complete mixture. So just add 5% using your 95% alkohol. Acts as a slovent.
I am a bit confused about the mix. Do we purchase a bottle of 60% phosphoric acid and a bottle of 5% ethyl alcohol if so at what proportions do we mis the two. Does it matter? Thank you 1:36
This video should clarify everything
th-cam.com/video/M8A_jmYDuZ0/w-d-xo.html
Soak in apple cider vinegar worked on some stuff. Still need paint prep etc.
Or use my method and do it with ease
love the 440 great work sir
Thanks 👍
LIked-Subscribed-Notified - Thank You for sharing.
Thanks for subscribing!
@@justahandchannel Keep up the great work. I really respect you for the great work that you are doing.
Thank you so much!
Great video sir...thank you
Thank you for watching!
What is the mix ratio of phosphoric acid and ethyl alcohol? (How many parts each?)
He says it in the early part of the video
@@email4664
I must not be hearing the same audio as you? I hear him say 60% and 5% concentrations but never hear a ratio of each.
Please watch this video for more detail
th-cam.com/video/M8A_jmYDuZ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mswcS0UQQiTW1OjZ
Is rubbing alcohol a good substitute for the ethenol?
I've never tried it. Not sure what the results would be but why don't you give it a try.
What does the ethyl alcohol do to the phosphoric acid? Why not just phosphoric acid?
And can hydrochloric / matric acid be used instead?
Thanks for an excellent video, top man!
My pleasure!
That's brilliant mate. Thank you for the information.
I thought your hair was part of the look, hard worker. Lol
Thanks
Good on you thanks , would you be able to paint over with a two pack epoxy Zinc as a first coat with this system , cheers
I see no reason why not. The best thing to do is give it a try and see if it's okay
@@justahandchannel thanks I'm a fan of test patches on new to me plans , good advice
Thanks for the video. Just a single question: the rest of the mix is composed of water (35% remaining)?
There is no 35% remaining.
Thanks