I was facing rudder and throttle twitching issue on my thrustmaster a320 stick since many months. I followed your video and the issue is resolved. Thanks a ton 😊😊
WARNING: 2:01 There aren't only 5 screws, you also have to take off the 2 more screws on the other side, similar to where screws #1 and 2 are located! Almost ruined my stick thinking there was only 5 to take off because I couldn't get it apart.
Thanks a lot! A little addition. 5 screws from the left side, dismount side buttons from the sides of the stick and unscrew two screws from under the right side button. Used 96% alcohol for the procedure - tried to push it from the insulin syringe to have a thinner needle and faster liquid stream. My grandma always said that a reasonable amount of alcohol will never do any harm.
It worked! Despite having a severed wire (my fault on closing the joystick), I managed to reconnect the wire and get all those wires out of the way of the potentiometer. Now I can taxi smooth as butter! Thank you!
Fyi using a small amount of hand sanitizer on a cotton swab is perfect and did the trick for me. It seems crazy how doing something like that actually worked. thanks
Hi, since I bought it I thought it was broken and due to the shortage I didn't return it I thought I would need the pedals but I don't have space for them, you have saved us from the suffering we have been subjected to thank you very much
I am so glad I found your video, I was so annoyed by my weird rudder behaviour. And damn, the quality of your video is awesome, definetely a sub from me!
Thanks for this tutorial. When I opened the joystick up I was a little skeptical that it didn't seem to dirty, but I gave it a spray and put it back together again. The only fiddly bit was putting the changeable buttons back on. Seems to be running smoothly now according to the thrustmaster software. I'll give it a proper run on flightsim later.
Thanks for the video, I had just been puting up with it thinking I had broken it myself. Was pretty anxious to take the joystick apart, but found it really quite easy. Thank you!
This is the most useful video on TH-cam! I was fixing it until I realised I am going to go get a new yoke next week. 😂 But, still thank you so much for the vid!
Thanks a lot mate, I was literally about to give up and buy another. Couldn't get screw 3 out but pried the bottom open, gave it a good blow and to my surprise it's fixed
Great video Nocturnal! Thanks. Saved me from buying a new sidestick. As noted by others, be aware that once you remove the side buttons there are two more screws under the right button location for a total of seven screws you need to remove. I thought I just needed to pry a little to separate the two halves, then realized my mistake. Also be aware of the rotation lock at the bottom. I did not see this and it fell out. Took me a minute to figure out how it is oriented on the bottom of the cover pieces.
Mine started doing this exact thing and is only a year and a half old! Seems to be super common with this side stick...I'm going to try this out tonight! Thank you!
@@nocturnalsimulations yes! Cleaned everything up and re-routed some wiring as well since some of it was pinched during the manufacturing. I also trimmed down the front tabs a little as I saw elsewhere and it’s running perfect now with no twitching!
I don't know how, but I just took the joystick apart and put it back together, and it started working. I didn't clean anything. There might have been something, but I didn't see anything. Anyway thanks a lot for the video! God bless you! :)
So many others seemed to have suffered this same issue (as I did too!) that Thrustmaster should have done a fix! I did get it replaced under warranty, but it took a lot of time/effort to do. I ended up buying a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro as I didn't trust the replacement one (still in its box!) and have been extremely pleased with it! You should not have to pull the stick apart to fix this sort of thing... Good video though!
Thanks, just rearranging the potentiometer worked great! But, this would've been a good video if you'd mentioned screw 6 and 7 at the top on the other side! Took me a second video to find those. Why did you ignore them? 😅
Tired of this rudder axis spikes, I just applied the Electronic spray to the potentiometer. Wires were already pretty well positioned. I hope this brings an end to the annoying spikes.
I have cleaned the component you were talking about and moved the wires, and the Z axis is still doing, whatever that is. Any ideas of what the problem coud be and/or any soulutions? Thanks!
My wing keeps dipping right, especially on rotation!! if I can’t get it with one of these videos, I’m just going to return it for a new one, because it seems to have been getting worse.. I think it’s an actual hardware issue. I know there’s something messed up with it because as soon as I turned that controller off, the plane levels out
Hi and thanks for the video! I followed what you said, I just cleaned the potentiometer, pulled the wires to loose them a little bit and now it seems to work! I just wanted to ask you how I can clean that part we see at 1:06 Thanks!
That’s the Hall effect sensor for the joystick itself. You have to remove the 4 screws that hold the black base in for the joystick (this is inside of the base of the unit) and it’s right there
@@blackfalco33 that’s correct. You’ll have to remove the bottom and you’ll see a couple circuit boards/wires and in the middle will be the base I mentioned
@@nocturnalsimulations Ok thanks for the infos and help, very kind! For now it worked just by removing and cleaning the potentiometer so I'm happy with it but in case I'll need to do it again in future ( hope not lol ) I'll try to open the base as well and see what I can clean ( without doin' damages...lol ).
Thank you so much! This worked for me. I was using a 70% deadzone because of the twitching but I can finally reduce it. What deadzone would you recommend for rudder axis to prevent any potential false imputs?
Since that’s a classic potentiometer it’s going to have some noise compared to a Hall effect sensor that’s on the joystick, 2-5% depending on how significant the jitter is
Is this a permanent fix? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I followed a video similar to this a year ago and the problem slowly came back. That one didn't do the spray cleaning; it focused more on wire placement. The fix didn't stay.
That’s a tough one to answer as there’s a ton of variables involved. I would say it would be a maintenance item for as long as you own it. However it would be easy to redo the next time(s) since you’ve already done it once and know what to expect.
@@nocturnalsimulations I should say I'm on my second one, as the first one started acting up again after that attempt to repair it. When I bought the second one, I was steeped in wishful thinking that maybe some were faulty and some were not. But it seems like all of them are faulty. I can't, for the life of me, understand why Thrustmaster has not yet tried to fix this. It's a popular item; and this issue is equally popular. Smh.
Good evening Nocturnal Sim. Nice to see your other vids when you're not live streaming. I have a question for you: Before going through all this, wouldn't it be easier to first try recalibrating the Z-axis control, using the Windows Calibration menu, and moving the stick around given the instructions? I know I used to be able to do that in Windows 10. Problem is, I can't find how to calibrate via the software on the computer. Do you know how to do this, so I can try to avoid going as far as taking the whole thing apart? I'm not real mechanically inclined and fear I'd break the whole thing, and not be able to get it put back together. Thank you for your time, if you read this.
@@B3burner hey! I think if you search for “gamepad” in windows 11, at least I am assuming that’s what you’re using, it should come up with that old menu you remember! Yes, you are correct it is a good first try but a dirty potentiometer is probably going to keep giving that glitchy reading that causes the problem. So, try it and see! If it works, awesome! If not, let me know if you need help getting this sucker apart beyond the video!
@@nocturnalsimulationsThank you for your fast reply. I was able to access the old calibration menu in Windows, by uninstalling the Thrustmaster driver first. I had failed to read that part. I haven’t tried it yet, but will in a few minutes. If it doesn’t work, I will watch the video again to try to take it apart.
Hey man, I know its been a while since you posted the video but is there a way to fix this if its not responding at all? everything works just not the x and y axis on it, maybe you know what replacement parts I could order?
@@CeceNomad could be the potentiometer itself then, I do not have a part number for that and you’ll likely have to fight with thrustmaster to get that unfortunately. Google would be my first stop
Hello mate, Than ks very much for the quick and easy tutorial! I would like to ask you if you could appload a similar video repairing the thrustmaster TFRP rudder pedals, i'm facing immense issues with the product in result of it jiterring and not functioning as required. I contacted thrustmaster support and i had no luck.
@@nocturnalsimulations Thank you! I am a real life Boeing 737 operator and I've got some gear for flight simming, unfortunately the rudder pedals are not working correctly and that is by bouncing and jittering. Thanks again for the tutorial and I'll definitely look into tearing them apart and possibly finding a solution using the same way. Best regards from Greece
@@mr.vaggelis146 feel free to join the discord if you get stuck! You can send me some pictures on there. I am an engineer so I enjoy working on things 🙂
@@nocturnalsimulationsQuick update, I tore apart the TFRP rudder pedals, cleaned the potentiometer and it's working perfectly now! It was a pain in the ass to do but worth it.
Aww man, sounds like the potentiometer is toast. Try reaching out to thrustmaster and see if they’ll fix it or send you another potentiometer to replace the broken one with
Yep that did the Trick i took my TCA Airbus Stick Apart Sprayed Potentiometer and into the Hole a little, i did Struggle to Put back the Axis Lock but figured it out lmfao.
@@x_psycho_666_x7 bad decission . i ended up broken the 2 wires . and the stick its not the same anymore mounted . i will try at an electrician to fix it again .
@@nocturnalsimulations yeah I don’t think I will because I have dedicated rudder pedals so I don’t use it anyway, and I don’t want to void my warranty to be honest
@@AviationFun737 No worries, I normally use the twist "rudder" for a tiller in tubeliners and then it doesn't get touched afterwards. Luckily you can just use rudder pedals for that anyways.
Sorry, but negativ! Your recommended fix looks great. But, after removing the 5 screws, it's not possible to remove the loosen left side of the stick !! Up on the top, it stays together and if you start to draw, so much tension is building up that for sure the plastic will break :(( Could you please show us, how to remove the upper top left half of the stick!? Would be great!!
@@nocturnalsimulations I think they have redesigned it recently. Mine is not that old and has the same problem. However the thumbstick is held in by two hex screws that seem to be a weird size. None of mine from 1.5mm up fit. These appear to need to be released before the stick will come apart.
![[FR] TUTO réparer le joystick TCA sidestick AIRBUS de Thrustmaster. Réparer l'axe Z des palonniers](/img/n.gif)
took me less than 10 minutes and fixed a problem that was destroying my taxi and landings... you're an actual lifesaver... its working perfectly now
Awesome! Glad I could help
@@nocturnalsimulations worked like a charm...thanks... I sprayed IPA and cleaned everything around the sensor.
Thank you so much, my landings were so bad because of the rudder doing whatever he wanted to do. But now my landings are way better.
I was facing rudder and throttle twitching issue on my thrustmaster a320 stick since many months. I followed your video and the issue is resolved. Thanks a ton 😊😊
Great!! Glad you were able to fix it
WARNING: 2:01 There aren't only 5 screws, you also have to take off the 2 more screws on the other side, similar to where screws #1 and 2 are located! Almost ruined my stick thinking there was only 5 to take off because I couldn't get it apart.
same bro. Almost broke my stick. Thanks for your post.
@@SamuelClix lifesaver bro i almost broke my stick too trying to pry it open with a fork but thank god you posted
Mate your channel is a HIDDEN GEM! Kudos to you sir!
Thank you! I appreciate the compliment
Had to do it today, after a total of 2500h of flying. Just cleaning and relocating the wires - all fresh and clean again. Thanks from germany.
Thank you, this helped! And yes, I confirm, there are 2+ more little screws from the opposite side of the screw #1 and #2
THANKS! You just took my junk flightstick and made it function better than new. Wires were wrapped around pot! I truly Appreciate!
You’re welcome!
Thanks a lot! A little addition. 5 screws from the left side, dismount side buttons from the sides of the stick and unscrew two screws from under the right side button. Used 96% alcohol for the procedure - tried to push it from the insulin syringe to have a thinner needle and faster liquid stream. My grandma always said that a reasonable amount of alcohol will never do any harm.
I like to use electronics spray since it will often times blow the crud out, so that's a great option. Good suggestion!
Yes a vital part of the dismantling missed out - hopeless
It worked! Despite having a severed wire (my fault on closing the joystick), I managed to reconnect the wire and get all those wires out of the way of the potentiometer. Now I can taxi smooth as butter! Thank you!
Awesome! Hope it wasn't too difficult?
Fyi using a small amount of hand sanitizer on a cotton swab is perfect and did the trick for me. It seems crazy how doing something like that actually worked. thanks
Hi, since I bought it I thought it was broken and due to the shortage I didn't return it I thought I would need the pedals but I don't have space for them, you have saved us from the suffering we have been subjected to thank you very much
I love it when people are able to fix things instead of having to deal with returning!
Hi again, after almost 1 year had to do it again! Got the trick, working like a charm again :D
Ha! Thats awesome to hear, that it worked not that you had to do it again. Dang it thurstmaster...
Thank you so much! Finally fixed this problem after 2 years...
Awesome!!
I am so glad I found your video, I was so annoyed by my weird rudder behaviour.
And damn, the quality of your video is awesome, definetely a sub from me!
Glad I could help, appreciate the kind comment!
Thanks for this tutorial. When I opened the joystick up I was a little skeptical that it didn't seem to dirty, but I gave it a spray and put it back together again. The only fiddly bit was putting the changeable buttons back on. Seems to be running smoothly now according to the thrustmaster software. I'll give it a proper run on flightsim later.
Thanks for the video, I had just been puting up with it thinking I had broken it myself. Was pretty anxious to take the joystick apart, but found it really quite easy. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Things usually aren’t as hard as they appear when you work on stuff like this
Thank you! A small hair stuck on potentiometer was causing the troubles in my case.
You're welcome!
This is the most useful video on TH-cam! I was fixing it until I realised I am going to go get a new yoke next week. 😂 But, still thank you so much for the vid!
Thank you! I am glad it helped you out. Which yoke are you getting?
@@nocturnalsimulations The flight velocity one! Also, again you are the most underrated channel on TH-cam don’t stop posting.
Thanks a lot mate, I was literally about to give up and buy another. Couldn't get screw 3 out but pried the bottom open, gave it a good blow and to my surprise it's fixed
Hey, when you say you pried the bottom open, how did ya do it? I am struggling with screw 3 as well, did you just rip it out and it didn't break?
@@callumjohnson4645 I basically pulled the 2 sides slightly apart and then blew into the gap
@@-_-O Managed to get in in the end but took a good 45mins to get that bloody screw our haha, thanks for the reply.
Great video Nocturnal! Thanks. Saved me from buying a new sidestick. As noted by others, be aware that once you remove the side buttons there are two more screws under the right button location for a total of seven screws you need to remove. I thought I just needed to pry a little to separate the two halves, then realized my mistake. Also be aware of the rotation lock at the bottom. I did not see this and it fell out. Took me a minute to figure out how it is oriented on the bottom of the cover pieces.
Mine started doing this exact thing and is only a year and a half old! Seems to be super common with this side stick...I'm going to try this out tonight! Thank you!
Did you have any luck!?
@@nocturnalsimulations yes! Cleaned everything up and re-routed some wiring as well since some of it was pinched during the manufacturing. I also trimmed down the front tabs a little as I saw elsewhere and it’s running perfect now with no twitching!
@@OmegaSimPilot that’s great to hear!
I don't know how, but I just took the joystick apart and put it back together, and it started working. I didn't clean anything. There might have been something, but I didn't see anything. Anyway thanks a lot for the video! God bless you! :)
i cant take the side off for some reason even though i removed all 5 screws
I think I may have forgotten to mention another screw, check the comments out. Someone mentioned that I believe
Worked like a charm. I just found 2 more screws I needed to take out that were hiding under those 2 button thingies on the top.
Awesome, glad it helped!
Holy crap this worked!! You’re a life savor!
Noiiiice!
I love that joystick but never had such bad rudder issues as on this one.
Thanks for the video!
I think it's worth a try :)
It’s one of those problems that some will have but others not. Thanks for the comment!
So many others seemed to have suffered this same issue (as I did too!) that Thrustmaster should have done a fix! I did get it replaced under warranty, but it took a lot of time/effort to do. I ended up buying a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro as I didn't trust the replacement one (still in its box!) and have been extremely pleased with it! You should not have to pull the stick apart to fix this sort of thing... Good video though!
You rock!!! Did what you recommended, steady as a rock now!!! Thank you!
Awesome! You’re welcome
Thank you! I didn't have anything to clean the potentiometer with, but in my case just rerouting the cables somewhat did the trick. 👍
Thanks, just rearranging the potentiometer worked great! But, this would've been a good video if you'd mentioned screw 6 and 7 at the top on the other side! Took me a second video to find those. Why did you ignore them? 😅
Hmm, it's been a while since I made the video and didn't purposefully leave those out of course. Dunno why I missed it in the video if I did haha
same here took me ages just to find the screws on the back, i also think a visual representation of him moving the wires would be helpful
Did it now, it worked perfectly. THANK YOU
Tired of this rudder axis spikes, I just applied the Electronic spray to the potentiometer. Wires were already pretty well positioned. I hope this brings an end to the annoying spikes.
Thank you very much for this valuable lesson, I had the same problem as you and with this tip it worked.
You are most welcome!
So you just cleaned the potentiometer and what did you just do to the wires?
It worked in a brand new joystick! Thank you!
Great to hear!
I have cleaned the component you were talking about and moved the wires, and the Z axis is still doing, whatever that is. Any ideas of what the problem coud be and/or any soulutions? Thanks!
THANK YOU! It was all sticky with vaping years ago! damn was about to buy a new one!!!!
This was awesome. Everything working perfectly!
Thanks a lot.
Excellent! You're welcome
thank you for posting this video.what kind of sprey shall i use ?
Thank You! Fixed my issue with twitchy rudder.
Glad I could help!
and it turns out that the TCA Airbus sidestick Z axis problem has been solved, thank you very much for the tutorial. +1 subscribe! 😎✈️
This is an awsome tutorial but i just wanted to say that the more modern ones have two screw more in the top on the otherside
My wing keeps dipping right, especially on rotation!! if I can’t get it with one of these videos, I’m just going to return it for a new one, because it seems to have been getting worse.. I think it’s an actual hardware issue. I know there’s something messed up with it because as soon as I turned that controller off, the plane levels out
Have you tried resetting the calibration through windows?
Thanks for this video, it worked! Now i can finaly fly stable again :)
I have done it and it solved the problem but it has started again what should I do?
Other than trying it again you can reach out to thrustmaster and try for a replacement part or warranty.
Hi and thanks for the video! I followed what you said, I just cleaned the potentiometer, pulled the wires to loose them a little bit and now it seems to work! I just wanted to ask you how I can clean that part we see at 1:06
Thanks!
That’s the Hall effect sensor for the joystick itself. You have to remove the 4 screws that hold the black base in for the joystick (this is inside of the base of the unit) and it’s right there
@@nocturnalsimulations Oh thanks, so I must remove the bottom plastic?
@@blackfalco33 that’s correct. You’ll have to remove the bottom and you’ll see a couple circuit boards/wires and in the middle will be the base I mentioned
@@nocturnalsimulations Ok thanks for the infos and help, very kind! For now it worked just by removing and cleaning the potentiometer so I'm happy with it but in case I'll need to do it again in future ( hope not lol ) I'll try to open the base as well and see what I can clean ( without doin' damages...lol ).
@@blackfalco33 no problem, any time! If you’d like feel free to join the discord and we can trouble shoot just about anything!
i dont really know how to put the axis lock back in there
Thank you so much! This worked for me. I was using a 70% deadzone because of the twitching but I can finally reduce it. What deadzone would you recommend for rudder axis to prevent any potential false imputs?
Since that’s a classic potentiometer it’s going to have some noise compared to a Hall effect sensor that’s on the joystick, 2-5% depending on how significant the jitter is
@@nocturnalsimulations Got it, thanks again.
@@CactusBravo42 you’re welcome!
YEEEEESSS!!! Thank you my hero! Awesome! Wish I could give this video 1000 likes! Finally a solution to my nose gear steering going crazy!
Glad it helped!
i don't gave the spray... should i still do it?
Rubbing alcohol will work too
@@nocturnalsimulations ye, but i don't have any 😕
@@JayJay360x well, you can try this and blow out the sensor with compressed air or your lungs in an attempt to get it working at the very least!
@@nocturnalsimulations Thanks! ill try that 🙃
I literally just blew on the potentiometer, no alcohol nor anything and that did the trick. We're back to the 90s lmao
My nostalgia is screaming!
Is this a permanent fix? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I followed a video similar to this a year ago and the problem slowly came back. That one didn't do the spray cleaning; it focused more on wire placement. The fix didn't stay.
That’s a tough one to answer as there’s a ton of variables involved. I would say it would be a maintenance item for as long as you own it. However it would be easy to redo the next time(s) since you’ve already done it once and know what to expect.
@@nocturnalsimulations
I should say I'm on my second one, as the first one started acting up again after that attempt to repair it. When I bought the second one, I was steeped in wishful thinking that maybe some were faulty and some were not. But it seems like all of them are faulty. I can't, for the life of me, understand why Thrustmaster has not yet tried to fix this. It's a popular item; and this issue is equally popular. Smh.
@@rickfloyd451 I totally agree. C'mon TCA, your gear is usually 100% and this is a very factory-fixable design fault.
THANKS A LOOOT it worked like a charm on the first try!
Glad you got it working!
In some cases is not even necessary to clean the potentiometer. Just repositioning the wires will be enough! 🙂
Good evening Nocturnal Sim. Nice to see your other vids when you're not live streaming.
I have a question for you: Before going through all this, wouldn't it be easier to first try recalibrating the Z-axis control, using the Windows Calibration menu, and moving the stick around given the instructions? I know I used to be able to do that in Windows 10. Problem is, I can't find how to calibrate via the software on the computer. Do you know how to do this, so I can try to avoid going as far as taking the whole thing apart? I'm not real mechanically inclined and fear I'd break the whole thing, and not be able to get it put back together. Thank you for your time, if you read this.
@@B3burner hey! I think if you search for “gamepad” in windows 11, at least I am assuming that’s what you’re using, it should come up with that old menu you remember!
Yes, you are correct it is a good first try but a dirty potentiometer is probably going to keep giving that glitchy reading that causes the problem. So, try it and see! If it works, awesome! If not, let me know if you need help getting this sucker apart beyond the video!
@@nocturnalsimulationsThank you for your fast reply. I was able to access the old calibration menu in Windows, by uninstalling the Thrustmaster driver first. I had failed to read that part.
I haven’t tried it yet, but will in a few minutes. If it doesn’t work, I will watch the video again to try to take it apart.
Thanks for the interesting tutorial video. It worked for me.
Really thank you mate! You have save me a lot of money!
Awesome! Glad I could help, happy flying!
Worked for me as well! Tricky thing.. cable "management" ;-) But with a Hall element it makes sense. THX for the tip ;-)
AWESOME! Glad you got her working
Fixed & Nice info!!, my controller has error suddenly to left or right automatically every taxi, takeoff & landing.
I am glad it helped you out, a TON of people have issues with this!
Hey man, I know its been a while since you posted the video but is there a way to fix this if its not responding at all? everything works just not the x and y axis on it, maybe you know what replacement parts I could order?
Have you checked the wiring for loose connections or pinched wires? Could be a simple plug it back in solution or soldering a wire back together
@@nocturnalsimulations I dissassemble and found nothing unless its in the potentioteter itself
@@CeceNomad could be the potentiometer itself then, I do not have a part number for that and you’ll likely have to fight with thrustmaster to get that unfortunately. Google would be my first stop
@@nocturnalsimulations Thanks for the help, I will try that.
@@CeceNomad Good luck! Please post the part number if you manage to get one and I will sticky it.
Hello mate, Than ks very much for the quick and easy tutorial! I would like to ask you if you could appload a similar video repairing the thrustmaster TFRP rudder pedals, i'm facing immense issues with the product in result of it jiterring and not functioning as required. I contacted thrustmaster support and i had no luck.
I unfortunately have never owned those pedals but I bet it’s a similar deal. You are very welcome for this video though
@@nocturnalsimulations Thank you! I am a real life Boeing 737 operator and I've got some gear for flight simming, unfortunately the rudder pedals are not working correctly and that is by bouncing and jittering. Thanks again for the tutorial and I'll definitely look into tearing them apart and possibly finding a solution using the same way. Best regards from Greece
@@mr.vaggelis146 feel free to join the discord if you get stuck! You can send me some pictures on there. I am an engineer so I enjoy working on things 🙂
@@nocturnalsimulationsQuick update, I tore apart the TFRP rudder pedals, cleaned the potentiometer and it's working perfectly now! It was a pain in the ass to do but worth it.
@@mr.vaggelis146 much better to go through some short term pain for long term gain on this type of stuff, which I am sure you already know lol
Working! Thank you, saved my money
"Thrustmaster hates this one trick!"
Thanks very much, you saved my tiller
Man, I love you.
hey mate which screwdriver do you recommend i know it’s a small screwdriver just any recommendations?
It’s been a while but I believe I just used a small Philips screwdriver…I no longer have this joystick (upgraded to virpil) or I’d look
@@nocturnalsimulations thanks
I couldnt fix it, disassembled two times, but mine is broke i think....:(
Aww man, sounds like the potentiometer is toast. Try reaching out to thrustmaster and see if they’ll fix it or send you another potentiometer to replace the broken one with
My sidestick for some reason doesn't want to open.
I don’t have this joystick anymore but make sure there’s not a screw hidden under a sticker. Assuming you’re talking about the bottom?
Yep that did the Trick i took my TCA Airbus Stick Apart Sprayed Potentiometer and into the Hole a little, i did Struggle to Put back the Axis Lock but figured it out lmfao.
Awesome, glad it fixed your problems…even with a little extra work lol
Its fixed my problem. 🤩Thank you sooo much. 🤝😘
in the title says that you need to rearrange the wires , but nothing changed the guy .
@@meade918r I just sprayed it with contact spray, but also had 2 more scratches than shown
@@x_psycho_666_x7 bad decission . i ended up broken the 2 wires . and the stick its not the same anymore mounted . i will try at an electrician to fix it again .
C'mon TCA, your gear is usually 100% and this is a very factory-fixable design fault.
Right?! Drives me nuts
Thank you so much! :D
You’re welcome!
thanks man!
Thank you 👍
u are a genius, thank you 🙏
excellent tutorial. Even made me laugh a couple times lol
Great! Glad you enjoyed it
Thx 4 the help🎉
You’re welcome!
Im honestly so shocked, my unit is 10 days old and has this issue.
What!? That’s insane….hopefully this fixed you up
@@nocturnalsimulations yeah I don’t think I will because I have dedicated rudder pedals so I don’t use it anyway, and I don’t want to void my warranty to be honest
@@AviationFun737 No worries, I normally use the twist "rudder" for a tiller in tubeliners and then it doesn't get touched afterwards. Luckily you can just use rudder pedals for that anyways.
@@nocturnalsimulations yeah I used it for tiller for a bit but I find rudder a bit easier as I’m used to it
I OWE YOU. Thank you!!!!!!!
Sorry, but negativ! Your recommended fix looks great. But, after removing the 5 screws, it's not possible to remove the loosen left side of the stick !!
Up on the top, it stays together and if you start to draw, so much tension is building up that for sure the plastic will break :((
Could you please show us, how to remove the upper top left half of the stick!? Would be great!!
Are you talking about the parts at the top of the stick where you can swap the autopilot from left to right? You’ll need to remove that screw(s) also
@@nocturnalsimulations I think they have redesigned it recently. Mine is not that old and has the same problem. However the thumbstick is held in by two hex screws that seem to be a weird size. None of mine from 1.5mm up fit. These appear to need to be released before the stick will come apart.
Ok discovered the secret. there are an additional 2 screws on the other side. Making a total of 7 screws to remove.
@@dotChuckles ah, that may be it. I’ve had mine since about when it came out originally
@@nocturnalsimulations either way, taking it apart and cleaning the pot fixed my issue! 😊
Thanks!!
STOP RUDDER INPUT brought me here
Do you mean to tell me i can easily fix my rudder issue that i am now 3 joystick replaced in 15 mins with a screwdriver? no way?
Pretty much…just takes a little effort most of the time and things can be fixed fairly easily! It’s never as scary as it seems…
You are awesome easy fix
Thanks dad
You’re welcome, son!
W