Yes a resistor will work as you said but you can do this without a tune. Just leave it plugged in and tuck it out of the way. No light or anything and will be deleted out of system.
Hi, nice video, i will do the same on my tt 8n... So you just closed the valve in the front on one site and the other side you connected with the secondary air? Thanks
The other side was already connected to the secondary air so I just left that alone. All I did to the was change the line to a red one. On the other side it went to the actual N249 and that side I plugged just in case there was a vacuum leak or something like that.
Hey man, where can I read up to understand this system better? I’m building a 1.8t and I’m worried about all of the vacuum hose routing. And turbo hose routing. I am doing UROTUNING SAI evap n249 delete. So I wanna learn how to route n75, diverter valve, and any other vacuum hose necessary
There are tons of forums online that provide pictures and some even videos. Its not complicated at all so you should have no problem doing it once you see how everything should go. For the most part you just plug everything straight to the intake.
@@chriswise6374 Yea if you are unsure at first that would probably be the best way to go because you can always change it later. I had everything deleted on mine through a tune, I just left everything on and hooked up except for the n249 because I didn't want the hassle of rerouting and removing everything.
I used 4mm but I honestly think that if you want a really snug fit 3mm might be better. I just went with 4mm because there was no way I was gonna for 3mm over my DV.
i dont want to keep the SAI functional. its almost pointless and a pain when the car first starts so i am planning on removing the whole system and blocking it off.
Hey Eric - I plan to keep my SIA for now - are you saying I need to take a tee from the new line that's going from the DV to the manifold and feed that to the N112 in place of the line that used to go to the N249?
If you can get a tune and unlock 60 more horsepower then why didn’t they just send the car from factory with 60 more? It just gives it constant vacuum instead of the system deciding to bleed off boost when it wants.
There’s something wrong with my Audi TT after it warms up if I get to high rpm it looses power and then if I shift it’s all good again and does it every now and the
I used 4mm but 3mm in my opinion would be a better fit. I just bought 4mm because I couldn't fit a 3mm over the DV but 4mm seems to work just fine on everything.
How difficult was it to reach the connections to the intake manifold? Did you have to remove any extra parts in order reach everything for disconnecting / connecting?
It wasn’t too bad. It would be easier to maybe remove the charge pipe and maybe a couple hoses but they are accessible without needing to remove anything they are just harder to make sure you get the line on good without removing anything.
Literally the best video out there yet that explains where the hoses go thank god
Finally I found an answer what to do with the second line that goes from N112. Thanks man!
thank you very exploratory accurate.could you tell me please the size of silicone hoses how much it is?4mm or 8mm?
I believe I used 4mm but 5mm may work too with a small zip tie. You can get about 10 feet for like $12 on eBay or Amazon.
For people who don't get tunes or already have tunes but no deletes, you can buy resistors
Yes a resistor will work as you said but you can do this without a tune. Just leave it plugged in and tuck it out of the way. No light or anything and will be deleted out of system.
@@fewminutestudio959 i did it my self. use a 10watts 330 ohm resistance and you r ready
How do I like a video twice?
Remember that video that you made to teach ppl how to make car sounds with you’re mouth
Hi, nice video, i will do the same on my tt 8n...
So you just closed the valve in the front on one site and the other side you connected with the secondary air?
Thanks
The other side was already connected to the secondary air so I just left that alone. All I did to the was change the line to a red one. On the other side it went to the actual N249 and that side I plugged just in case there was a vacuum leak or something like that.
Are you that guy that made those car beat sounds
Hey man, where can I read up to understand this system better? I’m building a 1.8t and I’m worried about all of the vacuum hose routing. And turbo hose routing. I am doing UROTUNING SAI evap n249 delete. So I wanna learn how to route n75, diverter valve, and any other vacuum hose necessary
There are tons of forums online that provide pictures and some even videos. Its not complicated at all so you should have no problem doing it once you see how everything should go. For the most part you just plug everything straight to the intake.
@@fewminutestudio959 thanks dog. I’m debating whether or not to delete this still. I might try it with a check valve first
@@chriswise6374 Yea if you are unsure at first that would probably be the best way to go because you can always change it later. I had everything deleted on mine through a tune, I just left everything on and hooked up except for the n249 because I didn't want the hassle of rerouting and removing everything.
What size vacuum line? 3 or 4mm?
I used 4mm but I honestly think that if you want a really snug fit 3mm might be better. I just went with 4mm because there was no way I was gonna for 3mm over my DV.
@@fewminutestudio959 so 4 feet 0f 3mm hose,? An 1 1/2 foot of 4mm hoses
If you want to keep the SAI functional you need to tee the inlet of the N112 to your intake manifold. Do not plug it.
i dont want to keep the SAI functional. its almost pointless and a pain when the car first starts so i am planning on removing the whole system and blocking it off.
and it will still work fine doing it this way. this is the 5th car i have done and no problems at all.
Hey Eric - I plan to keep my SIA for now - are you saying I need to take a tee from the new line that's going from the DV to the manifold and feed that to the N112 in place of the line that used to go to the N249?
If we can simply connect the vacuum line from the Diverter Valve directly to the Intake Manifold then why did Audi/VW invent the N249 system?
If you can get a tune and unlock 60 more horsepower then why didn’t they just send the car from factory with 60 more? It just gives it constant vacuum instead of the system deciding to bleed off boost when it wants.
There’s something wrong with my Audi TT after it warms up if I get to high rpm it looses power and then if I shift it’s all good again and does it every now and the
Almost like a sputter don’t know the issue changed the spark plugs and that’s it
Whats the point of deleting that thing?
What size line did you have to buy?
I used 4mm but 3mm in my opinion would be a better fit. I just bought 4mm because I couldn't fit a 3mm over the DV but 4mm seems to work just fine on everything.
How difficult was it to reach the connections to the intake manifold? Did you have to remove any extra parts in order reach everything for disconnecting / connecting?
It wasn’t too bad. It would be easier to maybe remove the charge pipe and maybe a couple hoses but they are accessible without needing to remove anything they are just harder to make sure you get the line on good without removing anything.
@@fewminutestudio959 gotcha. thank you!
What line is t off the fuel pressure regulator
I T'd my boost line off of it for my gauge.
Бля на русском бы, мне так де надо только не понимаю не хрена
He ded