This is the best tutorial on boost problem's IV seen anywhere on TH-cam, thanks for all your help, looking forward to seeing your next upload, whatever it is 😊👍
Thanks Stuart appreciate the comment. Done my best to try and make it simple and easy to do which isn’t always easy. That’s why I didn’t go too much into codes and readers etc as there’s loads of videos solely just for that. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Mate what a brilliant tutorial I'm a home mechanic with 30 years of garage work with certificates and you have done better than any class room or practical lesson great work sir
Gordon Jewell thank you, glad you found it useful and helpful. I actually met a new tt owner today and put some of this video to the test again and guess what it worked haha. His garage had given up with the boost issue. Boom turned out to be duff n75
@@TheParrottBros yeah haha. Ibought a 1.8t a week ago and now have a boost leak somewhere. I have already tested the diverter valve and n75 valve and they are good so I expect it is a leaking hose somewhere
@@TheParrottBros My car is not boosting as it just too . i got the p1297 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve fault code and i just got my car smoke tested for any leaks but it turns out that i have no leaks. Also i tested the n249 diverter valve and replaced the n75 valve but no difference. Do you have any idea what could be wrong with it?
I bought my mk1 Octavia VRS a week ago as a daily and noticed that it was having issues boosting properly. Watched this, unplugged the N75 and hey presto. This is perhaps the quickest and most satisfying diagnostic test I've ever done 😂 Cheers!
Just got myself a 2006 1.8 tt..... 100.000 on the clock ... cheap as I really can't afford a new sports car.... really appreciate your videos... always wanted one as I love the design and shape...but I'm having some issues... and your vids are the best I've seen. Thanks!
Glad the channel has been a help to you, they really are brilliant cars. They are just getting to that age where they need a little more Tlc than they used to haha. What colour did you get?
would like to say 1st your videos are FAB and very helpful specially owning a mk1 S3 my self.. did have trouble with my N75 valve tried to get a N75F which is the original for 1.8t BAM... but deleted from sales years ago.. tried the N75C lack of power N75E lack of power? N75J thumbs UP back to being a pocket rocket... 280bhp with a map but enough to make a grandad like me very happy when rag time from the lights!! keep the vids flowing Bro.. Bless
Appreciate you commenting. I’ve tried to make them easy searchable for the wider 1.8t community as most platforms share the similar issues and performance bits. Odd that the c&e lack power. We’re they new genuine ones? Usually the biggest issue I see it people using after market ones that fail very quickly. Glad to hear your still enjoying cars and putting others to shame at the lights 😂👌🏻
@@stuartwinstanley4949 Hi again bro sorry for late reply been setting up a face lift r53 cooper s 2nd toy. this part number 034906283J known as the n75J... try going on ebay Germany and put that part number in.. as well as uk ebay good luck rare but well worth it specially if yr mapped up.. 🙊👍🏾
ALL HAIL the Parrot Bro! Yes, I replaced the clutch and turbo on MK1 with 133K working thought boost issues. This was soo helpful Thank you so much Best boost Video on TH-cam You're helping my TT annoy the neighbors more XD Subscriber added!
Haha thanks Scott, appreciate the kind words. Glad to hear it helped you. These tt’s love a silly fault. Will be doing a video on fault finding using cheap diagnostics tool too. Thanks for sub 👍🏻
@@TheParrottBros smooth power from 800rpm to the redline. I had done everything else….. my F-Pace has been off the road awaiting a new engine for the last two months and I’m loving the TT as my daily. Bought it as a weekend toy…. Now planning a trip to Poland in it with my eldest son. Thanks again to your content it’s running right now so we can go 👍
@@TheParrottBros hi can I ask a follow up question?? You mentioned running a new wire from the ECU to the N75, can you advise which pin from the ECU. I’m still having a very intermittent hesitation. I bet this wire is damaged elsewhere. Thanks a million
@@mickehoe In my bentley manual its coming up as cable 104 / gr/br but thats based on bentley us cars, i traced mine by hand unravelling it ( over 3 years ago) hope that helps
Thank you so much you are amazing I've owned 4 audi tts and with each one I keep learning more. Just like this video has helped me learn more. Keep up the amazing job 👏 👍 👌
I recently purchased an Aviator Grey MK1 TT Quattro 225 Coupe with a load of the APR catalog, drove about 800 miles trouble free, now it shudders violently under any throttle less than full throttle, only pulling 5psi. Code reader codes: P0455 (Evap System Large Leak), P1297 (Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve- Check DV) and P1136 (System Too Lean). Hoping this should help. Thanks for the content, also great help removing the headliner and interior panels after a shop botched the headliner replacement before I purchased the car. Wish I had these kind of resources when I had my AP1 S2000!
Hey, sorry i missed your message before and hope youve got it sorted now, first off start with checking for boost leaks, then i would look at DV and see if its still functional, If you search google for "ROSSTECH P1136" and the other codes it gives you a list of checks to make, should help diagnose the issue without having to spend out too much money
Karim Zamani thanks buddy, that could quite possibly be the rocker gasket leaking oil which is getting burnt on the turbo manifold. Easy fix if that is the case :)
@@TheParrottBros definitely the culprit...has oil around it!...hey do you recommend anything else replaced while i remove the rocker gasket?? Since some stuff is coming off
Karim Zamani depending on what engine model you have, you will need rocker gasket, and chain tensioner gasket too. Also check your coilpacks, spark plugs and wiring for you coil packs as often fails. While your there always check your Pcv pipework including the triple pipe that connects to the rocker cover itself
Hi there! I've been following your videos since buying my own 1.8T 8n, absolutely brilliant! Today I have mounted boost gauge as I had a feeling car is a bit sluggish. The reading I'm getting is no more than 0.6 bar... Disconnecting MAF improved the drive but made the reading fluctuates from 0.6 to 0.8 .. So I guess it's time to go through the pipework. Also - the previous owner mounted Forge recirculation valve which I've heard are famous for leaks...
Hey buddy, A boost gauge certainly is a great tool. If you have a 225 you should see 10-12psi if standard and nearer 20 if mapped. Forge DV’s are ok just make sure it’s tight and jubilees etc are on. You can test it same as any dv. Is it a 225 or 180? Any other mods?
@@TheParrottBros it's 180 quattro (ARY) from late 2005. Recently installed bigger intake as previous owner decided to drill holes in genuine box :O I will also take dv out and test it to see if that is an issue
Do you know whats the problem with my tt, sometimes it does boost normally and sometimes it doesnt, feels like it does boost properly when the motor is cold….?
Very timely video, chasing down a boost leak myself at the moment. Regarding code.readers, can't recommend OBDEleven enough, it's VAG specific so reads all the submodules on the ECU which many readers don't, it can also.do data logging so you can chart your boost etc. I've replaced a few suspect and leaky hoses but still losing boost, particularly when the engine gets hot, so wondering if my N75 is the issue... Will be Ohm testing tomorrow. 👍
1.8t life at its best ayy! Thanks for mentioning that so OBDEleven is the one to look at nice one, It’s definitely worth testing the n75 as rife for failing and would make Sense if only happening / happening more when hot. Thanks for watching
Hi I have just bought a 2001 bam 225 TT , diverter valve installed rather than n249 , the drive home was amazing boost pressure was awesome , next day it will not boost at all , accelerates the same drives fine but when foot goes down it won’t boost ,
What do you mean diverter valve installed rather than n249? Sounds like it’s been fiddled with, try and get it all back to the stock way round, check all connections as often Get boost leaks
@@TheParrottBros pardon my novice questions and explanation I am complete novice with all this , so an aftermarket diverter valve has been installed , the n249 is non existent it’s not there and the n75 is not connected to anything , driving home when letting acceleration off there was a huge flutter and felt great but now the boost gauge will not move past 0
And also thank you so much for your swift response , I’d love to be able to send you a photo of the engine bay to see what you think ? Also your videos have been amazing please keep uploading , (Sligo Ireland ) big fan base here
This video just popped up for a second time after I've watched it so wanted to share the following since last time: One of my injectors was visibly soiled near the manifold. Take all 4 out, send out for a clean, they will also fit new rubber seals, put them back and performance has quite visibly improved. Many people have this problem because injectors aren't normally touched...
That’s a good point to add, I’ve always fancied getting my injectors spray tested to see if all 4 have similar spray volumes. Injector seals is a good one tho, I’ve seen these fail and for the sake of probably 10 pounds on seals a cheap fix.
@@TheParrottBros yeah ended doing the fuel rubber hoses too, they looked like a 100 year old tortoise's bottom. Documented everything here www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1964841
Greetings from New Mexico. What is that pipe called you held in your hand at 9:34. The pipe that was weak or collapsed. In the mean time, mine was collapsed (122K miles) from suction (vacuum) and I gave it a second wind by inserting a like diameter spring into the pipe. The pipe is very weak so I think there could be a tear from attempting to open the pipe and stiffen it up. What is the name of that pipe? Or the part number. Thanks, great instructional videos.
Put the Ramair filter kit on my 225 enjoyed the flutter for one drive but knew it was to high . Your video has pointed me in the right direction I think . It fluttered a little before so I think the diverter valve is suspect . THANK YOU 👍👍👍
I would certainly give the pipework a look over and check the dv, pipes and other things in that area. Old rubber pipes and plastic valves often fail. Reasonably Cheap to replace with genuine too
@@TheParrottBros your advice was spot on so the RamAir presented serious fluttering which has always been there on the stock filter but kind of cool. If you didn't know better it sounded nice until the RamAir made it silly . I avoided the temptation to buy a Forge 008 and went with a stock DV £30 . I did the finger test and sure enough it was worn out. Fitted the new DV and it's gorgeous now . Smooth power and I'm convinced nicer changes when giving it some . THANK YOU oh and it sounds well well engineered performance now . Might go for a stage 1 map.
@@Alexdhowevids1 glad it was something nice and simple. Often it’s the obvious issues but you have to know it’s a problem to address it. Ooo love a map 😎
I had a problem on my 01 TT 225, when it will hit a wall at 3.5k - 4k rpm and throw me forward; i changed the fuel pump to a VDO and that fixed the problem. It goes all the way to redline now...but from 2k to 4.5k rpm it will hit 16psi of boost (it pulls nice) and after 4.7k rpm to redline it starts shooting down and only holds 5 - 8psi (feels sluggish). I'll be changing the MAF sensor soon and taking out the cats to see if thats the problem. Its at 134k miles right now.
Idk if anyone will see this or not, but I'm having issues with boosting, it gets into boost and cuts out straight away then drops back out, I've swapped the n75 and it's still doing it, I unplug it and then it runs fine just at 5psi, is the n25 still the issue?
@@TheParrottBros It really does!! Also swapped the N75 "E" variant for the "J" variant, slower to react and smooths the boost surges from my mapped eBay ECU!
@@MrCube17 happy days, sounded like the car needed some love, often even if a car has been well looked after age related issues creep in now and again. Top work man
Idk if i have a problem with mine or my obd reader is not working properly, i bought a new n75 from audi for my engine ajq. I tested the voltage, and only one cable gives 13v the other 0v. Both "top" cables look ok, but i can't check the full cable because it goes inside a sleeve and down the engine.. i need help
My car only makes 10 psi and runs very sluggish now. Not sure what to do! Use to run 21/22 psi before my turbo went and after replacement I’ve just not been able to boost properly
Can n75 or n249 reduce your boost without throwing up a code? Car has lost a bit of power so fitted a boost gauge, its hitting 16psi peakthen holding 13psi.. its remapped and im told it should be peaking st about 20psi. No damaged pipes and local 'audi specialist ' cant find anything wrong! Also getting occasional exhaust pops when decelerating and changing 1st to 2nd when warmed up but not cold
The Parrott Bro’s got a turbo manifold gasket, gonna replace that first as it’s not too hard to. Just 3 bolts under the charge pipe. If not I’ll do the DV - this seems to work perfectly tho
Just bought a smoke detector on a certain shopping site beginning with A for £104 plus a litre of smoke oil for £5. As I have 2 TT’s and 3 other cars it’s going to get a fair amount of use. It seems to me that as a TT owner everyone should get one as they are very affordable and should be in anyone’s tool selection just as surely as sockets, spanners and screwdrivers. One of your 4 S’s I believe.
@@TheParrottBros I also found a telescopic mirror really handy, in tight engine bays and when you’re working by touch underneath. You can get one for about £4-£6.
I have vacuum issues as my boost gauge sits at the maximum negative reading and when underload and boosting the gauge only goes to 0 on the gauge , any ideas why , ive replaced n75 , mass airflow sensor , pcv , recirc valve , air intake temp sensor and vacuum 1 way check valves , any help appreciated
are you sure the gauge is ok? It should sit somewhere between -15&-25 on idle. Then maybe 12-21 positive on boost depending on maps. Does it have a decent boost, or does it feel flat? You could have a wiring issue, the n75 may be fine but the cabling is fucked
Can't thank you enough. It was my boost solenoid. Now the only code is air temp too low. I've replaced my sensor but it won't clear. What values should my wires put out on tester?
My wires faulty. Do you know what pin on ecu harness I run a jumper to? This car has been my project for 3 years and I've learned more in 3 WEEKS from you than anyone else in these 3 years combined. Thank you
Hi. Hoping you can help. I have a mk3 tts. With a fault showing drive system error. My problem is I cannot locate valve N75 or valve N249. I have tested all pipes and all are good. I would be really grateful if you could point me to the location of these valves. Loved your video by the way . Forgot to mention ran a check with obd 11. Device and it gave me error code p00AF00. Turbo fault.
A mk3 TTS will have a completely different set up to the original MK1. That code shows / Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1: Stuck Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON Glow Plug light flashing Reduced engine performance Possible Causes Defective N75 N75 connector plugged into the wrong 2 wire component. Check wiring diagram to confirm Vacuum leak or low vacuum VNT sticking or seized G581 sensor Possible Solutions Verify N75 is working to design, use Output Testing Verify the N75 connector plugged into N75 per the factory level wiring diagram rather than any other component that may not set a fault code such as N79 (Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) heating element) Verify vacuum lines are good, check engine vacuum at idle Test VNT and G581, apply vacuum to VNT and watch MVB 120.4 Engine off, no vacuum 120.4 should read about 3.5V Engine Off, apply 17 Inches of mercury, 120.4 should drop to about .7V Engine at idle, 120.4 should read about .7V If 120.4 voltage doesn't alter, VNT may be seized or G581 failed Special Notes
Great video, I have a question for you. Occasionally, my check engine light will come on and I’ll lose what seems to be boost. If I disconnect the battery, the check engine light goes off and boost is back to normal until it eventually happens again. Any idea what that might be. Thanks in advance
have you ever checked to see what codes are locked for this, usually it will be logging a code for some form of limp mode and it should tell you what is causing it
Hi again don’t know if Ud be able to help me out please? My car went into I think limp mode where it won’t boost over 5 psi, I had a wire break on the plug for the n75 had it repinned and tested with multi meter and the n75 itself and getting all the right readings like Uve done on this video, and still in limp mode,but if I disconnect the battery for over half hour its boosts back to normal again but as soon as I turn off and start up again it goes back into limp mode, cheers in advance 🙏
@@jayCreps have you plugged it into diagnostics? Does it log any codes? There is every possibility that there is another issue, the n75 could be faulty, Did you check what supply’s are coming to the n75 plug? Thanks
@@TheParrottBros haven’t plug in diagnostics as engine line hasn’t came on butt was gonna try this n if no codes then I’m gonna try a new n75 even tho the multi meter reading says it’s working ok and sorry I didn’t understand that that bit about checking what supply’s the plug?? Cheers 👊🏻
@@jayCreps Yeah sometimes even when the n75 reads ok there could still be an intermittent fault, you can check the n75 supplys. with a multi meter and the car running. Put one probe on ground and the other on a pin in the plug, one should be 12v one should be between 3-5v
Gary L there is kind of but with the tt there is so many different variations that differ between engine codes. You can buy eBay kits of certain Pcv pipes, silicone vac line specific sizes and other generic straight pipe. A coolant hose kit for example is a few hundred quid so not particularly cheap
You'll hear it blowing, not sucking if a hose is split, I've had that twice on my mondeo 2.2 diesel, which runs 18psi on full boost, as standard, you can hear it blowing with the windows closed🤪 But it has much fewer hoses than the TT making it easier to find😉
Hello sir, I am strugling with n75 issue. Basicaly one of the wires is not showing any voltage another shows 13.5 volts. I am assuming ecu is not comunicating with the salenoid. Could you please advise where to start looking ? I assume wire is broken but where the pin in ecu repsible for controling n75?
Yeah you should have 3,5-5v on the other pin. My broken wire was literally 2cm from the plug. I would remove the plastic tubing around the cables and look for a damaged cable. Failing that take it to a garage and get them to end to end test it. It goes from the n75 to a pin on the ecu below the wiper motor.
morning! Is it normal to hear the dump valve discharge even al low revs when changing through the gears? Just bought a TT and hear that chatery noise. Diverter valve? Also under acceleration seem to have a slight wistle/ turbo noise… the car is really in colector condition and has only 88T Km from new. Its a quattro cabrio. Thanks!
dear mate i am french and your description is very clear , but i've got an audi TT mk1 225cv quattro with apx engine, my current problems are at about 3000tr/min the pressure seems to increase and deacrease and if the throtle is very light about 50% default appear epc engine fault wtith 1 code on vdc engine torque monitoring control limit exceededeach time sometime with only dsc alramr on dash board somestime more serious with Epc defaut and limp mode engine. we already change n75 m 249 and maf sensor with stil the same problem thank you for your analysys! whane the throtle is a 100% no fault !! best regards
@@TheParrottBros dear mr n75 genuine new one maf genuine new one i dont know how to check throtle position i have to find, 1 code on vcds engine torque monitoring control limit exceeded code p1335 -35-10
Hello, I have an audi A4 B7 1.8T, 2006 Engine BFB 485.000 km / 300.000 miles I am looking for a overboost problem for months The problem started after I put in a brand new turbo because the old one was starting to leak oil I checked N75 28ohms and wiring is OK. Now I have bypassed the N 75 by putting a tube on the turbo to the waste gate itself and then I have no overboost problem. The car feels a little bit down on power but it drives fine. Does anyone know what the problem is?
Great video,keep up One question ,I have Ibiza bjx engine code ,it doesn’t boost as it should,decided to do vacuum leak test and when I put air in the system I can clearly hear my oil bubbling in the sump 😮 What’s that ????
Hey buddy, likely to be a n249 issue, electrical or vac leak. have a look at this link for more things to check forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/14525/
Hi there man, a boostleak can also make higher reading on the gauge from vacumleaks ? I guess my volvo has a leak, it goes beyond 2 bars. Should not be more than 1,2.bar. My Audi mk1 reads 16 - 18 psi at max boost (1,24 bar). I don`t understand why I can`t hear it letting out the air again from the wastegate. The airfilter is stock. Do you have any clue why ?
Excellent video. My 2001 tts battery keeps draining after a few days, at first they thought the earth was bad so that was cleaned. 2 days later, flat battery. Now their saying there is a constant live current "even when the car is switched off" to the ac compressor? Anyone heard of anything like this? I feel like I'm being bent over as I'm not much mechanically minded.
Thanks buddy, it’s quite a common issue on older cars. As things to faulty they can switch off but still say live behind the scenes. More common drains are, dash clocks, radio. Not heard ac compressor before but sure that’s run on a belt so should be static when powered off. If you can get a multifunction tester you should be able to test around to see what’s drawing a current.
Hi on my audi mk1 tt the revs were dropping so I watched your video and disconnected clip off the airflow mass and it worked. I just need some advise would I need to change the airmass senor or the wiring loom {clip} that I took off. Thanks again you saved me alot off money
PAPA KHANZ the maf would need changing, try and buy a genuine one. Using part number off your old one to get the right one. Usually aftermarket ones fail after a short while
You mentioned that you would come back to the N249 and a tip to diagnose, but you didn’t come back and ended the video, that was the bit I needed, pls advise.
Gary Clydesdale apologies I had a couple clips jumbled up apologies. What issues are you having? Logging faults and no running issues or vice versa? The N249 itself tends not to cause too many problems, it’s usually more related to the diverter valve.
The Parrott Bro’s hey I appreciate the reply. I am having a turbo stutter on boost between 2/3k revs, it’s like a pressure release stutter, at the moment no codes thrown at all, I was having issue with bank one but recent insulated the coil pack harness that had melted. In general I have checked and swapped out some of the coil packs, new plugs, PCV delete with catch can, replaced N75, and tested the diverter. Replaced injector on bank one. Had the issues before all this and still do after. Just had it Celtic tune mapped and just at a loss as to the cause. n249 test was going to be the last thing to test... Just feel I’m not getting any of its potential.
Gary Clydesdale apologies for not replying sooner been away from socials this afternoon. When you got it tuned was it running ok? As surely they can check running issues etc when tuning or was it just a flash map?
Currently have a boost issue on my Audi s3 Quattro, have just swapped the turbo over and has no boost at all, also sounds abit rough when I rev the engine, any help would be great please
There’s not enough info to be able to help, why was the turbo swapped? Has the turbo been set up, is the actuator Set up, was the boost hosing including the n75 and actuator pipe work put on correctly
Hi Bro, Thank you for this video. I have a overboost problem on my 1.8T. Car boosts to 1.1Bar and then holds at 0.5bar. Could this be an N75 problem. Car has no map. Down pipe and exhaust, done. Dump valve, to atmosphere, done. Front mount intercooler done. Please help
1.8t engines do not like dump valves, if fit a diverter valve back on you will notice better straight away. Ideally you want to get it mapped now you have intercooler and exhaust done. I would check the remaining hoses for air leak as any leaks can cause a lot of boost issues :)
Thanks very much for a nice video. I have a intermittent turbo issue with my 2001 Quatro (8N3). I get the codes P1200 (17608) and 1297 (17705). I have replaced the N75, N249 and the diverter valve, besides a rotten vacuum hose. A have great boost, max 35 psi, when I delete the codes, and the suddenly the boost is almost gone (19 psi) again and the two codes are back. Any suggestions, please?
On a stock turbo you should never see more than 21psi if mapped, 14psi if stock. Sounds like something isn’t right. The parts you replaced are they genuine audi parts or are the aftermarket? That can make a massive difference. Thanks
@@TheParrottBros Thanks. I think the 35 psi is the total pressure incl. Atm. pressure, so my boost pressure is 20-21 psi like you say. No it is not AUDI-parts but OEM parts from quality German manufactures. But I checked the diverter valve as you explained in the video. When I press it open from the bottom it goes back even when I hold on and close the to other openings. It that normal?
@@rightnow1445 if your pushing up From the bottom then put your finger over the nipple on top it shouldn’t go down until you let go then should slam back down. So that could be your issue. Wasn’t sure if you were quoting from boost gauge or vagcom etc. Sometimes non genuine n75 valves cause no end of issue. An EATON one is genuine.
Hi can anyone help, Leon 1.8t pulled the pipe from actuator to n75 and the car sails, changed the n75 before this it was from amazon around £13 still no joy but I don’t want to drive it with the pipe off cheers
Hi I currently have issue with my 1.8t amk cupra r. Started mainly after doing n249 delete its started dumping boost violently when changing gears around 2.8/3krpm. Found all my pcv system under inlet manifold to be badly split. So I fitted catch can setup and bunged off the 8mm nipple under inlet. It improved a fair bit but still not 100%. Could this be n75 issue or fault Recirc valve? Or just another air leak somewhere?
Hi good video,just bought audi tt 2003 1.8 turbo.when accelerating any gear between 2.5 and 3000 rpm car stutters and holds back.ive changed the maf sensor still same problem.nothing showing on diagnostics.any ideas would be appreciated.thanks in advance from carl.
Thanks buddy, have you checked your plugs and coils as that sounds like missfire. Had similar when I got my car mapped just as it’s about to come on boost it missed and spluttered. Thanks for watching
No not yet just bought it last week,tomorrow will have the air blown through it at the garage.my mates the mechanic i asked him about the plugs and he said it would have shown up on the diagnostic.
Getting it pressure tested tomorrow and will ask for the spark plugs to be checked.thanks for the tips.ive subscribed to your channel.thanks again much appreciated.from carl coventry.
Hello again just an update might help someone out had the car pressure vacumed i think thats what u call it,one of the vacumn pipes was split crank case hose .so will be ordering one off ebay.thanks again from carl.
When to have the engine on? I get 11V when engine is one but i can only see the 3-5V when i have the engine turned off? So Engine ON = See only 11V, Engine OFF = See only 3.5V
Hi i was wondering if you can help me. My car has the 225 bam engine. Ive recently upgraded to the badger 5 v3 tip. And when i go to full boost my turbo start to surge and making the fluttering noise. The needle on my boost gauge will vibrate when this happens. Ive tried driving with the maf unplugged and still does it. It never used to do this and there is no codes on vcds. My dv is Arp r1
@@TheParrottBros Ive double checked everything today. ive smoked tested it as well. no leaks or split hoses. i cant understand why my car is doing this now. do you think it could be my n75. boost seems to takes ages to come on.
Dan The Audi Man quite possibly, Double check the orientation of your n75 valve, then if ok, measure the voltages on the plug and the impedance of the sensor. Sensor should be 25-35 ohms
So I have a 180 quattro awp, boost comes on really fast and hard but once I hit higher rpm or get more than half way on the throttle it's doesn't continue to pull. Just feels lacking.. I checked the ohms on the n75 only cold so far and it was good, still need to check it hot. I have a silicone pcv kit. My rpm needle still slightly moves at idle though. So I'm not sure where else to look. All the other hoses seem fine. I don't have a engine light could I have faults without it on? Still need to install a boost gauge.
Installing a boost gauge is the best thing you can do, the 180 has a smaller turbo so he's better lower end but runs out of path towards the top end, a small boost leak may cause fluctuating idol, get the boost gauge fitted and then have a look
I just installed a boost gauge on my 1.8T 163bhp Roadster 2006. Getting -20 on idle, 0 Ignition off, and about 9PSI any gear when foot is on the Gas. No tune or exhaust, just silicone boost hoses/intake pipe, Forge diverter valve, Proram air intake, new plugs and coil packs. Does this sound about right?
I find it truly amazing how well you know everything looking under the bonnet! I love my tt. Just spent £920 on a new clutch now to find what's draining my battery? 4th day in the garage and I'm getting worried 😯. I've spent so much on my tt I love it plus its my 1st car so I'm attached to it. But when do you say enough is enough to stop spending. Bout the car for 2k spent almost 5 on it in 3 years 🤔
Chris Bradshaw To be honest mate it’s just years of experience with owning older cars 😂 there is a few things that are quite common for draining the battery on the TT, not to say that this is The only things It could be doing it as they could be hundreds of things, The most common one is I see: The Speedo dash cluster, it looks off but when info will stay on behind the scenes The stereo is another common one Unfortunately because they are a high end brand such as Audi they are overly complicated and Parts can be very expensive. Hopefully they get to the bottom of the drain, any issues feel free to give me a message on Facebook or via our website 👍🏻 Thanks dom
Mate I’m 5 grand into a 19 year old s3 that cost 900 quid. I’m fully polybushing and repainting the suspension with some b8s, h and r arbs, replacing all the pipe work. Next year engine turbo 😬
I would be very greatful if anyone can give me advice. I own a fiat scudo 2.0 JTD 2001. All of a sudden it has lost power althought it runs oke only the turbo is not as powerful as it was. 1 garage turned off the yellow warning light saying it would fix the issue. Although it didnt the car still felt as if it was not as powerful as it once was. Before the turbo really kicked in hard and now almost nothing. Today I went to the fiat garage they said it was the ECR I had that fixed and that was not the problem. I also had a new MAFF fitted and still not the issue. Now I have the ECR blanked off and its still not fixed the issue. There is no leakages in the pipes. The garage recommend it could be the intercooler ? I have read on the internet it could be the boost solenoid ? Advice would be appreciated. Thankyou.
Williams David I would recommend you get that pressure tested as it sounds like it could be a boost leak either from pipes or cooler. Failing that could be your turbo actuator Could also be boost control sensor. Not up to scratch on fiats I’m afraid. Any good garage should be able to identify the issue
@@TheParrottBros But nothing happens at all. I blow right through it and nothing opens or anything. I don't have to blow hard at all. Is this correct? Shouldn't it only open at a certain pressure? I also have a boost pressure error code, this may have something to do with this since this PCV valve is on the turbo hose?
I have a 2003 TT Quattro, The turbo works fine when first started, then after a few stop lights (5 to 10 minutes) the boost is gone and car runs like a non-turbo charged 2.0 engine. If I turn off ignition and restart engine turbo works fine for same amount of time then craps out again. If you have any thoughts they would be much appreciated. Thanks, Mark
hi great vids and watched d nearly all of them ...now my problem is when cold (just warming up) i get about 10 to 12 psi ...so i drive it for about 10 miles ..my boost drops to about 5 psi..no leaks ...n75 reads 35 cold and the same hot put a reader on it no codes found ..i have ordered a new n75 just to eliminate it
A big enough boost leak could cause limo mode yes, plus it would run awfully. It depends what pipes you need. If you can look up the part number then search who will deliver to your country or if it can be replaced with silicone hose etc
I get a problem with my TT Mk1 225, if i put my foot down hard from low revs i get a bad holding back like missing and it will keep doing that right upto max revs but if i take off my foot when i first feel it happening to about half throttle it will pull right through to max revs well. I have tried everything, pressure test, changed quite a few pipes too, the code reader does come up with the code p0171, 'system too lean bank1' no other codes, but i can't find any leaks, could it be something in particular i should look at or do you think i am just not finding the leak?
Firstly it would be worth plugging it into a proper computer like vcds as code readers don’t always give the full story. Have you tried unplugging n75 then driving, and same with maf?
That code could be related to a weak fuel pump, and this list of things Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Check Fuel Pressure Regulation Check Fuel Pump Check Injectors Check Intake System for Leaks Check Exhaust System for Leaks Check Secondary Air System for Leaks Check Vacuum Pipes for Leaks
@@TheParrottBros Many thanks for the advice, i will see again if i can check some of those, i wouldn't know how to check half of them like the injectors though! It happens so quickly like within 1 second of putting my foot down it always seemed as it if was something electronic, also it will pull through to the redline with power if you feather the throttle, so trying to accelerate the engine from low revs is the problem, if the revs are above 4500 it will respond properly, also i did take it into an Audi main dealer a long time ago when the problem first started, they had it 2 days and gave it back with no charge as they couldn't find the problem after swapping just about everything they could, officially they did say bring it back they were out of ideas after 2 days!!!
@@Rick356A it could be something as simple as a failed maf, n75, an incorrectly fitting n75, all sorts of issues, fuel pump could be struggling to provide enough fuel etc. This is why vcds is good as you can measure what each sensor see’s on idle and driving as well as faults that some code readers won’t
Not all limp modes give an engine light unfortunately, if you have driven a turbo car, then you should be able to feel the difference between limp mode and no limp mode. Even a standard 225 should feel quick. In limp mode it feels like a nonturbo
@@TheParrottBros decided I want one , finding a decent one for 2 grandish is really hard. All the cars I've enquired about thr people know nothing cant tell me if thr haldex has been serviced or anything. Does a normal service include the haldex ? If its got a fsh does that mean haldex has been done to? Can't seem to beable to find that out. Really don't want to buy another lemon . Last 2 cars we've been spanked and our savings are gone another lemon and we're stuffed. Would you say a higher miler 05 06 plate would be better than a lower miler 2000 2001? Or are they all the same basically? Low miler under 100k are like 4 grand . The ones were looking at are 120 130 up to 160
@@youngstadan4999 Mileage is semi irrelivant when looking at the lower priced cars, the more important information is the service history. If full service history it should have a record of gearbox / haldex/transmission services. if it doesnt you cant prove that its ever been done really. as long as a car has been driven regularly and maintained a 2001 or a 2006 would be similar, providing faults have been rectified as they arose :)
@@TheParrottBros cheers buddy, yea I did presume that if its got full audi sh it would of been done regular. It's just thr people selling are clueless which is a bit worrying when it's there car hahs. Cheers m8
I forgot to mention one thing on my previous coment. Apart from the chattery noise the car feels it has a lot of torque. More than I was expecting, but as mentioned had never driven a 225 so dont know what to expect…therefore am not sure if it is not overboosting. Dont want to install boost gauge or other not original parts. Want to keep it in its original State. Thanks!
It’s hard to diagnose from a far, have you got a cone filter or has the original air box been modified at all! Usually that’s a common sign of the added noise. It does have a recirculating / dumpy noise on throttle release and gear changes usually. Could be remapped or just a good 225. A boost gauge is a good tool for diagnosis
That is odd, could be a wiring issue from the plug back to the loom, as otherwise the sensor should be able to take anything the car can throw at it, that or if you are using cheap or poor quality sensors ( not saying your cheap, just a common issue) ive used bosch ones in the past from a reputable company without issue.
@@TheParrottBros Thanks for the advice. Well the car has always had the best stuff. It was recently remapped and the tuner showed me the lambda coming on and then off? I'm just hoping the garage didn't fit me inferior parts as I've lost count how many I have gone through. Thanks.
steven purcell unplugging it should make a difference, ideally you want to get it plugged into diagnostic as should show why it’s in limp. You can measure the voltage at the plug got n75, should have 12v at one and 3-4v at other. And on n75 should have 25-35 ohms.
Hi mate, I'm getting around 20 PSI in 4th and 5th gear. Have checked and got 30ohms on the n75 when cold, (need to check when engine warmed up too). I was giving all the hoses a proper look around and noticed where the turbo actuator pipe from the N75 goes into the turbo that there is no metal clip anymore!!! Could see some fresh and shiny metal and could move the turbo actuator pipe up and down the metal connecting tube, assume that would cause some issues with this maybe? Likely small air leak down there. Any other tips on diagnosing overboost would be appreciated! I've already fitted a catch can to get rid of the pesky pcv system ;)
You could stick a cable tie or small jubilee clip on it just to make sure it’s not leaking. Over posting there could be a number of reasons for that. Is it ok in 1/2/3rd? 10-12 psi?
@@TheParrottBros Yeah i'm gonna get a clip on it on the weekend once I've taken some things off to get to it. And second and third gear are fine yea, mainly seems to happen in higher gears and occasionally boost cuts during higher gear pulls too. I'm leaning towards replacing n75 but will give it a test once the engines warm at some point first
@@LOZARATOR It could well be that, just strange it happens in higher gears only, best thing to do it unplug it and go for a drive, will run at less power but should be same in all gears. if it is then likely n75
You need to work out how far back it’s broken then replace that piece of wire to the point it’s ok. You can re pin the plug if it’s that close to the plug
So since my remap I've been getting turbo 'flutter' when letting off the power or changing gear. Car had an aftermarket blow off/diverter valve (capped off as when releasing to atmosphere the car would cut out at traffic lights!). Looking on forums lots of people saying faulty/worn DV so I've just bought and fitted a new OEM (latest updated design) but it's still fluttering. Any ideas? Should I not worry about it?
Have you fitted a filter recently? As that makes the sound louder, does it still pull hard all the way through the Rev range? Remember when mapping a car you are almost doubling the boost pressure so it will have more pressure to dump. Also have you fitted the dv the correct way? Just asking as have seen this happen in past
@@TheParrottBros the aftermarket one said to fit the opposite way to standard. As the new one is standard, I fitted it back the other way. I have just flipped it the other way and gone out, it's not fluttering as much, it's kind of half 'tssst' and then flutter if that makes any sense! 😂 I did read somewhere that for whatever reason Audi used to fit them the wrong way round.. something to do with having wrong length pipes but saved money replacing pipes by flipping the diverter??
Hi, I'm experience hesitation while accelerating, between 2000rpm - 3000rpm, then it goes like nothing is bad. Also, the idle is a bit rough, nothing major, but the needle bounces a bit. Ive checked for vacuum leaks, replaced a few lines, the problem seemed solved, but it is present again. Maybe MAF or throttle body (which I already clean, mb not calibrated)?
Have you tried unplugging your maf then driving. That should stop the issue. If it Does you may need a new Maf. I wouldn’t worry about the calibration too much
@@AssinaturaPicazica great stuff, sometimes it’s the simplest things. If you do replace it make sure you get a genuine Bosch one, after market ones often give inaccurate readings and or fail
Does the n75 throw up codes? As I’ve got an issue with boost between 1500-2000rpm where it just cuts boost (not fully) but still boosts after but doesn’t feel 180bhp as mines the AUQ engine feels more 140ish (not for cert)
It can do, but it’s not guaranteed that’s what makes it annoying. Have you got a multi meter with an ohms test feature. Would make it easy to tell? Also have you got a boost gauge?
Had a question why does my car boost to 15 lbs when my car is cold and when it starts to get warm it only hits 5lbs any help i swapped the n75 :( driving me crazy
Hi ,good video . My Mk 4 golf 1.8 20v from cold is all Nice but longer I drive it it’s got this problem - it’s building boost to 1.4bar and drop it build it back up and drop it .starting nicly and holding good idle .i did replaced all PCV pipes but it was eBay special.Swapped N75 ,swapped diverted valve still the same .When boost leak tested to 20 psi and spray soapy water small bubbles from under rocker cover gasket around timing chain tensioner area (gasket was replaced before ) Disconnected MAF - still the same . On same occasion it’s only boosting 0.4 bar but generally it’s build boost and drop .i can’t wait to get to the bottom of it
This is a discussion I have very often, did you buy a genuine N75 valve? You could have a bad actuator or waste gate on the turbo, I would recommend taking it to a specialist for a look over before you spend too much money
This is the best tutorial on boost problem's IV seen anywhere on TH-cam, thanks for all your help, looking forward to seeing your next upload, whatever it is 😊👍
Thanks Stuart appreciate the comment. Done my best to try and make it simple and easy to do which isn’t always easy. That’s why I didn’t go too much into codes and readers etc as there’s loads of videos solely just for that. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Finally someone who speaks concisely, correctly and knows what they're talking about, great video.
Thank you appreciate the comment 😎
This is golden for 1.8t owners, keep it up mate! Thank you
Sebastian thanks fella
Mate what a brilliant tutorial I'm a home mechanic with 30 years of garage work with certificates and you have done better than any class room or practical lesson great work sir
Gordon Jewell thank you, glad you found it useful and helpful. I actually met a new tt owner today and put some of this video to the test again and guess what it worked haha. His garage had given up with the boost issue. Boom turned out to be duff n75
Best video on the internet!
Haha thanks glad you found it useful
@@TheParrottBros yeah haha. Ibought a 1.8t a week ago and now have a boost leak somewhere. I have already tested the diverter valve and n75 valve and they are good so I expect it is a leaking hose somewhere
@@TheParrottBros My car is not boosting as it just too . i got the p1297 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve fault code and i just got my car smoke tested for any leaks but it turns out that i have no leaks. Also i tested the n249 diverter valve and replaced the n75 valve but no difference. Do you have any idea what could be wrong with it?
This is the best tutorial I have ever seen which there was one on fiatscudo 2.0 JTD
true This is the best tutorial on boost problem's in engines 1.8t thank you very much
Glad it’s been out to good use and appreciated 😎
I bought my mk1 Octavia VRS a week ago as a daily and noticed that it was having issues boosting properly.
Watched this, unplugged the N75 and hey presto. This is perhaps the quickest and most satisfying diagnostic test I've ever done 😂
Cheers!
Ha ha, glad this video is still getting put to good use and top work on the QuickFix love that
Just got myself a 2006 1.8 tt..... 100.000 on the clock ... cheap as I really can't afford a new sports car.... really appreciate your videos... always wanted one as I love the design and shape...but I'm having some issues... and your vids are the best I've seen. Thanks!
Glad the channel has been a help to you, they really are brilliant cars. They are just getting to that age where they need a little more Tlc than they used to haha. What colour did you get?
Dude I love you ❤ you just saved me so much money. I do body work not mechanic work but it's my N75 and MAF sensor 😭 easy fix!
I'm having a nightmare with boost issues , spent loads on mechanics trying to fix .
Thanks for the breakdown, of possible problems.
Yeah they can be a nightmare. Usually ends up being something quite simple that has been overlooked. What issues are you having
would like to say 1st your videos are FAB and very helpful
specially owning a mk1 S3 my self.. did have trouble with
my N75 valve tried to get a N75F which is the original for
1.8t BAM... but deleted from sales years ago.. tried the
N75C lack of power N75E lack of power? N75J thumbs UP
back to being a pocket rocket... 280bhp with a map but
enough to make a grandad like me very happy when
rag time from the lights!! keep the vids flowing Bro.. Bless
Appreciate you commenting. I’ve tried to make them easy searchable for the wider 1.8t community as most platforms share the similar issues and performance bits. Odd that the c&e lack power. We’re they new genuine ones? Usually the biggest issue I see it people using after market ones that fail very quickly. Glad to hear your still enjoying cars and putting others to shame at the lights 😂👌🏻
Where did you get the n75j iv never found one ?
Where did you find the n75j iv never found one ?
@@stuartwinstanley4949 Hi Bro its a company from Germany.. at work at the mo.. will defo send you the link.. N75J is the very best for our cars 👍🏾🚙
@@stuartwinstanley4949
Hi again bro sorry for late reply been setting up a face lift r53 cooper s 2nd toy.
this part number
034906283J
known as the n75J... try going on ebay Germany
and put that part number in.. as well as uk ebay good luck rare but well worth it specially if yr mapped up.. 🙊👍🏾
ALL HAIL the Parrot Bro! Yes, I replaced the clutch and turbo on MK1 with 133K working thought boost issues. This was soo helpful Thank you so much Best boost Video on TH-cam You're helping my TT annoy the neighbors more XD Subscriber added!
Haha thanks Scott, appreciate the kind words. Glad to hear it helped you. These tt’s love a silly fault. Will be doing a video on fault finding using cheap diagnostics tool too. Thanks for sub 👍🏻
Ok after 10 months I finally have a TT that has clean constant boost. Broken wire (3-5v) to the N75. Thank you so much for guiding me to check it. 💪🏻👍
Awesome!! i had the exact same fault on mine when i first bought it, bet its like a different car to drive now 👌
@@TheParrottBros smooth power from 800rpm to the redline. I had done everything else….. my F-Pace has been off the road awaiting a new engine for the last two months and I’m loving the TT as my daily. Bought it as a weekend toy…. Now planning a trip to Poland in it with my eldest son. Thanks again to your content it’s running right now so we can go 👍
@@TheParrottBros hi can I ask a follow up question?? You mentioned running a new wire from the ECU to the N75, can you advise which pin from the ECU. I’m still having a very intermittent hesitation. I bet this wire is damaged elsewhere. Thanks a million
@@mickehoe In my bentley manual its coming up as cable 104 / gr/br but thats based on bentley us cars, i traced mine by hand unravelling it ( over 3 years ago) hope that helps
@@TheParrottBros ok thanks a million 👍
What a great informative, clear video to follow.
Want to go straight out and check my TT now ...
Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you appreciate the kind words
Thank you so much you are amazing I've owned 4 audi tts and with each one I keep learning more. Just like this video has helped me learn more. Keep up the amazing job 👏 👍 👌
Thanks for the kind words and glad i could help :)
I’m gonna check all these on mine, I have a nasty leak the car is struggling to even move. Thank you for the detailed tutorial. One of the best! 👍🏽🙏🏽
Thank you and hope you get it sorted, check back in let us know how you get on
Check the brake booster lines 1st then follow that line down to the crankcase hose line. Guarantee that’s the culprit
I recently purchased an Aviator Grey MK1 TT Quattro 225 Coupe with a load of the APR catalog, drove about 800 miles trouble free, now it shudders violently under any throttle less than full throttle, only pulling 5psi. Code reader codes: P0455 (Evap System Large Leak), P1297 (Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve- Check DV) and P1136 (System Too Lean). Hoping this should help.
Thanks for the content, also great help removing the headliner and interior panels after a shop botched the headliner replacement before I purchased the car. Wish I had these kind of resources when I had my AP1 S2000!
Hey, sorry i missed your message before and hope youve got it sorted now, first off start with checking for boost leaks, then i would look at DV and see if its still functional, If you search google for "ROSSTECH P1136" and the other codes it gives you a list of checks to make, should help diagnose the issue without having to spend out too much money
Perfect video to watch before a map or tune...i have white smoke coming from back of engine...oil smell. And im sure i have leaks..
Karim Zamani thanks buddy, that could quite possibly be the rocker gasket leaking oil which is getting burnt on the turbo manifold. Easy fix if that is the case :)
@@TheParrottBros is that right? Thanks so much, cant wait to check out that gasket
@@TheParrottBros definitely the culprit...has oil around it!...hey do you recommend anything else replaced while i remove the rocker gasket?? Since some stuff is coming off
Karim Zamani depending on what engine model you have, you will need rocker gasket, and chain tensioner gasket too. Also check your coilpacks, spark plugs and wiring for you coil packs as often fails.
While your there always check your Pcv pipework including the triple pipe that connects to the rocker cover itself
@@TheParrottBros right on man I appreciate it so much I will do all of that, and its a 2001 225hp with the s-line badge on the steering wheel :)
Hi there! I've been following your videos since buying my own 1.8T 8n, absolutely brilliant! Today I have mounted boost gauge as I had a feeling car is a bit sluggish. The reading I'm getting is no more than 0.6 bar... Disconnecting MAF improved the drive but made the reading fluctuates from 0.6 to 0.8 .. So I guess it's time to go through the pipework. Also - the previous owner mounted Forge recirculation valve which I've heard are famous for leaks...
Hey buddy,
A boost gauge certainly is a great tool. If you have a 225 you should see 10-12psi if standard and nearer 20 if mapped.
Forge DV’s are ok just make sure it’s tight and jubilees etc are on. You can test it same as any dv.
Is it a 225 or 180? Any other mods?
@@TheParrottBros it's 180 quattro (ARY) from late 2005. Recently installed bigger intake as previous owner decided to drill holes in genuine box :O I will also take dv out and test it to see if that is an issue
great video this deserves more views
Thank you
Awesome video, really good explanation. Keep making videos so I can improve my TT :) greetings from Mexico
Thanks for the message appreciate it. Jealous of the great weather you get! Haha
Do you know whats the problem with my tt, sometimes it does boost normally and sometimes it doesnt, feels like it does boost properly when the motor is cold….?
A bigger intercooler will help
Very timely video, chasing down a boost leak myself at the moment.
Regarding code.readers, can't recommend OBDEleven enough, it's VAG specific so reads all the submodules on the ECU which many readers don't, it can also.do data logging so you can chart your boost etc.
I've replaced a few suspect and leaky hoses but still losing boost, particularly when the engine gets hot, so wondering if my N75 is the issue... Will be Ohm testing tomorrow. 👍
1.8t life at its best ayy! Thanks for mentioning that so OBDEleven is the one to look at nice one,
It’s definitely worth testing the n75 as rife for failing and would make Sense if only happening / happening more when hot.
Thanks for watching
Having the same issue feels fastest when it’s first turned on. Ordered new pvc, n75, oil catch can kit and some silicone pipes
Mike Cochrane sounds like your n75 is failing when warm, definitely worth testing it and replacing. Thanks for watching
Hi I have just bought a 2001 bam 225 TT , diverter valve installed rather than n249 , the drive home was amazing boost pressure was awesome , next day it will not boost at all , accelerates the same drives fine but when foot goes down it won’t boost ,
What do you mean diverter valve installed rather than n249?
Sounds like it’s been fiddled with, try and get it all back to the stock way round, check all connections as often
Get boost leaks
@@TheParrottBros pardon my novice questions and explanation I am complete novice with all this , so an aftermarket diverter valve has been installed , the n249 is non existent it’s not there and the n75 is not connected to anything , driving home when letting acceleration off there was a huge flutter and felt great but now the boost gauge will not move past 0
And also thank you so much for your swift response , I’d love to be able to send you a photo of the engine bay to see what you think ? Also your videos have been amazing please keep uploading , (Sligo Ireland ) big fan base here
Great video - you said when you 1st had the car you found out it was in limp, how did you fix that?
Yes it was the wiring to the N 75, the copper had split inside the insulation, the insulation was intact but the cable is broken
@@TheParrottBros Where was the cable broken? Not to strip it all the way. Thanks
This video just popped up for a second time after I've watched it so wanted to share the following since last time: One of my injectors was visibly soiled near the manifold. Take all 4 out, send out for a clean, they will also fit new rubber seals, put them back and performance has quite visibly improved. Many people have this problem because injectors aren't normally touched...
That’s a good point to add, I’ve always fancied getting my injectors spray tested to see if all 4 have similar spray volumes. Injector seals is a good one tho, I’ve seen these fail and for the sake of probably 10 pounds on seals a cheap fix.
@@TheParrottBros yeah ended doing the fuel rubber hoses too, they looked like a 100 year old tortoise's bottom. Documented everything here
www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1964841
I’ll have a read later, need to do mine soon as when I replaced my injector seals the pipes look ancient like you say
Greetings from New Mexico. What is that pipe called you held in your hand at 9:34. The pipe that was weak or collapsed. In the mean time, mine was collapsed (122K miles) from suction (vacuum) and I gave it a second wind by inserting a like diameter spring into the pipe. The pipe is very weak so I think there could be a tear from attempting to open the pipe and stiffen it up. What is the name of that pipe? Or the part number. Thanks, great instructional videos.
Put the Ramair filter kit on my 225 enjoyed the flutter for one drive but knew it was to high . Your video has pointed me in the right direction I think . It fluttered a little before so I think the diverter valve is suspect . THANK YOU 👍👍👍
I would certainly give the pipework a look over and check the dv, pipes and other things in that area. Old rubber pipes and plastic valves often fail. Reasonably
Cheap to replace with genuine too
@@TheParrottBros your advice was spot on so the RamAir presented serious fluttering which has always been there on the stock filter but kind of cool. If you didn't know better it sounded nice until the RamAir made it silly . I avoided the temptation to buy a Forge 008 and went with a stock DV £30 . I did the finger test and sure enough it was worn out. Fitted the new DV and it's gorgeous now . Smooth power and I'm convinced nicer changes when giving it some . THANK YOU oh and it sounds well well engineered performance now . Might go for a stage 1 map.
@@Alexdhowevids1 glad it was something nice and simple. Often it’s the obvious issues but you have to know it’s a problem to address it. Ooo love a map 😎
I had a problem on my 01 TT 225, when it will hit a wall at 3.5k - 4k rpm and throw me forward; i changed the fuel pump to a VDO and that fixed the problem. It goes all the way to redline now...but from 2k to 4.5k rpm it will hit 16psi of boost (it pulls nice) and after 4.7k rpm to redline it starts shooting down and only holds 5 - 8psi (feels sluggish). I'll be changing the MAF sensor soon and taking out the cats to see if thats the problem. Its at 134k miles right now.
Idk if anyone will see this or not, but I'm having issues with boosting, it gets into boost and cuts out straight away then drops back out, I've swapped the n75 and it's still doing it, I unplug it and then it runs fine just at 5psi, is the n25 still the issue?
My PCV hoses (underneath the inlet manifold) had 4 (!!) broken hoses and was causing an unsteady idle and poor fuel consumption!
Thats a good find, bet it runs like a dream when its all fixed :)
@@TheParrottBros It really does!! Also swapped the N75 "E" variant for the "J" variant, slower to react and smooths the boost surges from my mapped eBay ECU!
@@MrCube17 happy days, sounded like the car needed some love, often even if a car has been well looked after age related issues creep in now and again. Top work man
Idk if i have a problem with mine or my obd reader is not working properly, i bought a new n75 from audi for my engine ajq. I tested the voltage, and only one cable gives 13v the other 0v. Both "top" cables look ok, but i can't check the full cable because it goes inside a sleeve and down the engine.. i need help
My car only makes 10 psi and runs very sluggish now. Not sure what to do! Use to run 21/22 psi before my turbo went and after replacement I’ve just not been able to boost properly
Can n75 or n249 reduce your boost without throwing up a code?
Car has lost a bit of power so fitted a boost gauge, its hitting 16psi peakthen holding 13psi.. its remapped and im told it should be peaking st about 20psi. No damaged pipes and local 'audi specialist ' cant find anything wrong!
Also getting occasional exhaust pops when decelerating and changing 1st to 2nd when warmed up but not cold
Hi, do you have a part number for the pipe at 9:30, changed all the other rubber pipes but couldn't find that one anywhere 🤔
I just brought a short length of pipe from my local motor spares shop for £3. It’s just 19mm oil resistant pipe
@@TheParrottBros Ah ok, looks like I'll be doing the same then. Thank you for your reply
tony lott anytime
Mine has a intermittent boost issue with the turbo to manifold gasket.. when cold it’ll leak boost. Needs replacing
Chasing a boost leak too and I think its that in mine too.
Gplus sucks big it’ll make a weird tap/ flappy noise when under boost
Have you checked the DV? And also have you thought about then wastegate / flap / penny. Have heard these cause similar issues
The Parrott Bro’s got a turbo manifold gasket, gonna replace that first as it’s not too hard to. Just 3 bolts under the charge pipe. If not I’ll do the DV - this seems to work perfectly tho
ThatGuyNamedScott. C while your changing the gasket check the penny on the wastegate inside the turbo, make sure not loose
I think mine may be the maf censor. It's stalling and underpowered but if I unplug maf it wakes right up.
It sounds highly likely then, make sure you get a genuine Bosch one, can be used just don’t get a aftermarket one
Just bought a smoke detector on a certain shopping site beginning with A for £104 plus a litre of smoke oil for £5. As I have 2 TT’s and 3 other cars it’s going to get a fair amount of use. It seems to me that as a TT owner everyone should get one as they are very affordable and should be in anyone’s tool selection just as surely as sockets, spanners and screwdrivers. One of your 4 S’s I believe.
That’s not a bad idea, and it’s not just suited to a tt, it’s suited to any turbo car as they are all terrible for boost leaks when they get old 😅
@@TheParrottBros I also found a telescopic mirror really handy, in tight engine bays and when you’re working by touch underneath. You can get one for about £4-£6.
Brilliant! Thank you a million
@@Hunter_Bauss glad it’s of help 😊
I have vacuum issues as my boost gauge sits at the maximum negative reading and when underload and boosting the gauge only goes to 0 on the gauge , any ideas why , ive replaced n75 , mass airflow sensor , pcv , recirc valve , air intake temp sensor and vacuum 1 way check valves , any help appreciated
are you sure the gauge is ok? It should sit somewhere between -15&-25 on idle. Then maybe 12-21 positive on boost depending on maps.
Does it have a decent boost, or does it feel flat?
You could have a wiring issue, the n75 may be fine but the cabling is fucked
Can't thank you enough. It was my boost solenoid. Now the only code is air temp too low. I've replaced my sensor but it won't clear. What values should my wires put out on tester?
I mean what's the voltage output of sensor wires? I have a tester but no clue what to look for
I will have a look when I’m back in front of a computer and I’ll see buddy. Glad your getting it sorted out 👌🏻
I'm getting code P0113 intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high bank 1.
Do you know what it means?
@@josephabshire2231 check this out for more info. wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16497/P0113/000275
My wires faulty. Do you know what pin on ecu harness I run a jumper to? This car has been my project for 3 years and I've learned more in 3 WEEKS from you than anyone else in these 3 years combined. Thank you
Hi. Hoping you can help. I have a mk3 tts. With a fault showing drive system error. My problem is I cannot locate valve N75 or valve N249. I have tested all pipes and all are good. I would be really grateful if you could point me to the location of these valves. Loved your video by the way . Forgot to mention ran a check with obd 11. Device and it gave me error code p00AF00. Turbo fault.
A mk3 TTS will have a completely different set up to the original MK1.
That code shows / Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1: Stuck
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Glow Plug light flashing
Reduced engine performance
Possible Causes
Defective N75
N75 connector plugged into the wrong 2 wire component. Check wiring diagram to confirm
Vacuum leak or low vacuum
VNT sticking or seized
G581 sensor
Possible Solutions
Verify N75 is working to design, use Output Testing
Verify the N75 connector plugged into N75 per the factory level wiring diagram rather than any other component that may not set a fault code such as N79 (Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) heating element)
Verify vacuum lines are good, check engine vacuum at idle
Test VNT and G581, apply vacuum to VNT and watch MVB 120.4
Engine off, no vacuum 120.4 should read about 3.5V
Engine Off, apply 17 Inches of mercury, 120.4 should drop to about .7V
Engine at idle, 120.4 should read about .7V
If 120.4 voltage doesn't alter, VNT may be seized or G581 failed
Special Notes
Great video, I have a question for you. Occasionally, my check engine light will come on and I’ll lose what seems to be boost. If I disconnect the battery, the check engine light goes off and boost is back to normal until it eventually happens again. Any idea what that might be. Thanks in advance
have you ever checked to see what codes are locked for this, usually it will be logging a code for some form of limp mode and it should tell you what is causing it
What’s the symptoms you get when n75 is bad??
No boost, fluctuation in boost, basically most symptoms that cause lumpy or random boost figures
Hi again don’t know if Ud be able to help me out please? My car went into I think limp mode where it won’t boost over 5 psi, I had a wire break on the plug for the n75 had it repinned and tested with multi meter and the n75 itself and getting all the right readings like Uve done on this video, and still in limp mode,but if I disconnect the battery for over half hour its boosts back to normal again but as soon as I turn off and start up again it goes back into limp mode, cheers in advance 🙏
@@jayCreps have you plugged it into diagnostics? Does it log any codes?
There is every possibility that there is another issue, the n75 could be faulty,
Did you check what supply’s are coming to the n75 plug?
Thanks
@@TheParrottBros haven’t plug in diagnostics as engine line hasn’t came on butt was gonna try this n if no codes then I’m gonna try a new n75 even tho the multi meter reading says it’s working ok and sorry I didn’t understand that that bit about checking what supply’s the plug?? Cheers 👊🏻
@@jayCreps Yeah sometimes even when the n75 reads ok there could still be an intermittent fault, you can check the n75 supplys. with a multi meter and the car running. Put one probe on ground and the other on a pin in the plug, one should be 12v one should be between 3-5v
Do you know of any upgrades for the n75 as I've had two that have separated where the solenoid valve meets the t piece body??
Dom what size is the vacuum pipes from the fuel pressure regulator, just noticed mines split and unsure what mm hose I need to order
Vac line is usually 3mm ish, 6mm would be for things like n249
@@TheParrottBros thanks again Dom,don't know what we'd do without you ,👍🥰
Is there a kit of pipes available? That would make it easier to buy and replace than trying to identify each pipe and order them.
Gary L there is kind of but with the tt there is so many different variations that differ between engine codes. You can buy eBay kits of certain Pcv pipes, silicone vac line specific sizes and other generic straight pipe. A coolant hose kit for example is a few hundred quid so not particularly cheap
@@TheParrottBros That's for the quick and informative reply. Great videos by the way :)
Gary L thanks buddy, if you ever need any more info drop me a message on insta, fb or via the website. Email address on contents page 👍🏻
@@TheParrottBros Top Man! I certainly will. Many thanks :)
You'll hear it blowing, not sucking if a hose is split, I've had that twice on my mondeo 2.2 diesel, which runs 18psi on full boost, as standard, you can hear it blowing with the windows closed🤪 But it has much fewer hoses than the TT making it easier to find😉
Can it cause some
Tipping issues
Hello sir,
I am strugling with n75 issue. Basicaly one of the wires is not showing any voltage another shows 13.5 volts. I am assuming ecu is not comunicating with the salenoid. Could you please advise where to start looking ? I assume wire is broken but where the pin in ecu repsible for controling n75?
Yeah you should have 3,5-5v on the other pin. My broken wire was literally 2cm from the plug. I would remove the plastic tubing around the cables and look for a damaged cable. Failing that take it to a garage and get them to end to end test it. It goes from the n75 to a pin on the ecu below the wiper motor.
morning! Is it normal to hear the dump valve discharge even al low revs when changing through the gears? Just bought a TT and hear that chatery noise. Diverter valve? Also under acceleration seem to have a slight wistle/ turbo noise… the car is really in colector condition and has only 88T Km from new. Its a quattro cabrio. Thanks!
dear mate i am french and your description is very clear , but i've got an audi TT mk1 225cv quattro with apx engine, my current problems are at about 3000tr/min the pressure seems to increase and deacrease and if the throtle is very light about 50% default appear epc engine fault wtith 1 code on vdc engine torque monitoring control limit exceededeach time sometime with only dsc alramr on dash board somestime more serious with Epc defaut and limp mode engine. we already change n75 m 249 and maf sensor with stil the same problem
thank you for your analysys! whane the throtle is a 100% no fault !!
best regards
Have you fitted genuine n75 and maf?
Have you checked the throttle position centre?
Any codes logging?
Thanks
@@TheParrottBros dear mr n75 genuine new one maf genuine new one i dont know how to check throtle position i have to find, 1 code on vcds engine torque monitoring control limit exceeded code p1335 -35-10
Hello, I have an audi A4 B7 1.8T,
2006
Engine BFB
485.000 km / 300.000 miles
I am looking for a overboost problem for months
The problem started after I put in a brand new turbo because the old one was starting to leak oil
I checked N75 28ohms and wiring is OK.
Now I have bypassed the N 75 by putting a tube on the turbo to the waste gate itself and then I have no overboost problem.
The car feels a little bit down on power but it drives fine. Does anyone know what the problem is?
Great video,keep up
One question ,I have Ibiza bjx engine code ,it doesn’t boost as it should,decided to do vacuum leak test and when I put air in the system I can clearly hear my oil bubbling in the sump 😮
What’s that ????
Thats totally normal, its air getting down into your sump thats all
Hi great video
Would any of this be related to code P1287 turbocharger recirculation valve
Thanks
Hey buddy, likely to be a n249 issue, electrical or vac leak. have a look at this link for more things to check forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/14525/
Hi there man, a boostleak can also make higher reading on the gauge from vacumleaks ? I guess my volvo has a leak, it goes beyond 2 bars. Should not be more than 1,2.bar. My Audi mk1 reads 16 - 18 psi at max boost (1,24 bar). I don`t understand why I can`t hear it letting out the air again from the wastegate. The airfilter is stock. Do you have any clue why ?
Excellent video. My 2001 tts battery keeps draining after a few days, at first they thought the earth was bad so that was cleaned. 2 days later, flat battery. Now their saying there is a constant live current "even when the car is switched off" to the ac compressor?
Anyone heard of anything like this? I feel like I'm being bent over as I'm not much mechanically minded.
Thanks buddy, it’s quite a common issue on older cars. As things to faulty they can switch off but still say live behind the scenes.
More common drains are, dash clocks, radio. Not heard ac compressor before but sure that’s run on a belt so should be static when powered off.
If you can get a multifunction tester you should be able to test around to see what’s drawing a current.
Hi on my audi mk1 tt the revs were dropping so I watched your video and disconnected clip off the airflow mass and it worked. I just need some advise would I need to change the airmass senor or the wiring loom {clip} that I took off. Thanks again you saved me alot off money
PAPA KHANZ the maf would need changing, try and buy a genuine one. Using part number off your old one to get the right one. Usually aftermarket ones fail after a short while
@@TheParrottBros Thank you so much... Keep doing what your doing... Your doing an amazing job
At 6.11 the testing of the N75 wiring..do you check each pin to ground (negative)?..
Yes, one is meant to be 12-13V the other is 3.5-5v
OK will give it a go.. Thanks for replying
You mentioned that you would come back to the N249 and a tip to diagnose, but you didn’t come back and ended the video, that was the bit I needed, pls advise.
Gary Clydesdale apologies I had a couple clips jumbled up apologies. What issues are you having? Logging faults and no running issues or vice versa? The N249 itself tends not to cause too many problems, it’s usually more related to the diverter valve.
The Parrott Bro’s hey I appreciate the reply.
I am having a turbo stutter on boost between 2/3k revs, it’s like a pressure release stutter, at the moment no codes thrown at all, I was having issue with bank one but recent insulated the coil pack harness that had melted.
In general I have checked and swapped out some of the coil packs, new plugs, PCV delete with catch can, replaced N75, and tested the diverter. Replaced injector on bank one. Had the issues before all this and still do after. Just had it Celtic tune mapped and just at a loss as to the cause. n249 test was going to be the last thing to test...
Just feel I’m not getting any of its potential.
The Parrott Bro’s hey man, did you get my lengthy reply?
Gary Clydesdale apologies for not replying sooner been away from socials this afternoon. When you got it tuned was it running ok? As surely they can check running issues etc when tuning or was it just a flash map?
Gary Clydesdale also did you use a genuine dv and n75 valve when replacing ?
Currently have a boost issue on my Audi s3 Quattro, have just swapped the turbo over and has no boost at all, also sounds abit rough when I rev the engine, any help would be great please
There’s not enough info to be able to help, why was the turbo swapped? Has the turbo been set up, is the actuator Set up, was the boost hosing including the n75 and actuator pipe work put on correctly
Hi Bro,
Thank you for this video.
I have a overboost problem on my 1.8T.
Car boosts to 1.1Bar and then holds at 0.5bar.
Could this be an N75 problem.
Car has no map.
Down pipe and exhaust, done.
Dump valve, to atmosphere, done.
Front mount intercooler done.
Please help
1.8t engines do not like dump valves, if fit a diverter valve back on you will notice better straight away. Ideally you want to get it mapped now you have intercooler and exhaust done. I would check the remaining hoses for air leak as any leaks can cause a lot of boost issues :)
@@TheParrottBros
How's does a leak cause an overboost error?
Thanks very much for a nice video. I have a intermittent turbo issue with my 2001 Quatro (8N3). I get the codes P1200 (17608) and 1297 (17705). I have replaced the N75, N249 and the diverter valve, besides a rotten vacuum hose. A have great boost, max 35 psi, when I delete the codes, and the suddenly the boost is almost gone (19 psi) again and the two codes are back.
Any suggestions, please?
On a stock turbo you should never see more than 21psi if mapped, 14psi if stock.
Sounds like something isn’t right. The parts you replaced are they genuine audi parts or are the aftermarket? That can make a massive difference. Thanks
@@TheParrottBros Thanks. I think the 35 psi is the total pressure incl. Atm. pressure, so my boost pressure is 20-21 psi like you say. No it is not AUDI-parts but OEM parts from quality German manufactures.
But I checked the diverter valve as you explained in the video. When I press it open from the bottom it goes back even when I hold on and close the to other openings. It that normal?
@@rightnow1445 if your pushing up
From the bottom then put your finger over the nipple on top it shouldn’t go down until you let go then should slam back down. So that could be your issue.
Wasn’t sure if you were quoting from boost gauge or vagcom etc.
Sometimes non genuine n75 valves cause no end of issue. An EATON one is genuine.
Hi can anyone help, Leon 1.8t pulled the pipe from actuator to n75 and the car sails, changed the n75 before this it was from amazon around £13 still no joy but I don’t want to drive it with the pipe off cheers
you need to get a proper n75, amazon trash wont help, it could be a power issue, test the power at the pins as you could have a broken wire
Hi I currently have issue with my 1.8t amk cupra r.
Started mainly after doing n249 delete its started dumping boost violently when changing gears around 2.8/3krpm. Found all my pcv system under inlet manifold to be badly split. So I fitted catch can setup and bunged off the 8mm nipple under inlet. It improved a fair bit but still not 100%. Could this be n75 issue or fault Recirc valve? Or just another air leak somewhere?
Good video but what about the MAP sensors,this also got to do with your boost
Hi good video,just bought audi tt 2003 1.8 turbo.when accelerating any gear between 2.5 and 3000 rpm car stutters and holds back.ive changed the maf sensor still same problem.nothing showing on diagnostics.any ideas would be appreciated.thanks in advance from carl.
Thanks buddy, have you checked your plugs and coils as that sounds like missfire. Had similar when I got my car mapped just as it’s about to come on boost it missed and spluttered. Thanks for watching
No not yet just bought it last week,tomorrow will have the air blown through it at the garage.my mates the mechanic i asked him about the plugs and he said it would have shown up on the diagnostic.
Check the basics first, check plugs, coils, pressure check the air system as super common for boost leaks
Getting it pressure tested tomorrow and will ask for the spark plugs to be checked.thanks for the tips.ive subscribed to your channel.thanks again much appreciated.from carl coventry.
Hello again just an update might help someone out had the car pressure vacumed i think thats what u call it,one of the vacumn pipes was split crank case hose .so will be ordering one off ebay.thanks again from carl.
When to have the engine on? I get 11V when engine is one but i can only see the 3-5V when i have the engine turned off? So Engine ON = See only 11V, Engine OFF = See only 3.5V
there are 2 pins, each pin to ground give a different value
@@TheParrottBros ok thanks!
Hi i was wondering if you can help me. My car has the 225 bam engine. Ive recently upgraded to the badger 5 v3 tip. And when i go to full boost my turbo start to surge and making the fluttering noise. The needle on my boost gauge will vibrate when this happens. Ive tried driving with the maf unplugged and still does it. It never used to do this and there is no codes on vcds. My dv is Arp r1
I would check all the connections you made, for leaks / the fact they are all on properly.
Odd that it’s only happened since you changed tip.
@@TheParrottBros Ive double checked everything today. ive smoked tested it as well. no leaks or split hoses. i cant understand why my car is doing this now. do you think it could be my n75. boost seems to takes ages to come on.
Dan The Audi Man quite possibly,
Double check the orientation of your n75 valve, then if ok, measure the voltages on the plug and the impedance of the sensor. Sensor should be 25-35 ohms
@@TheParrottBros okay ill give this a try. My n75 is the n75c i dunno if thats the good one. Im new to the 1.8t engines
@@TheParrottBros ive checked the voltage and its all good
Great information thank you
thank you
So I have a 180 quattro awp, boost comes on really fast and hard but once I hit higher rpm or get more than half way on the throttle it's doesn't continue to pull. Just feels lacking.. I checked the ohms on the n75 only cold so far and it was good, still need to check it hot. I have a silicone pcv kit. My rpm needle still slightly moves at idle though. So I'm not sure where else to look. All the other hoses seem fine. I don't have a engine light could I have faults without it on? Still need to install a boost gauge.
Installing a boost gauge is the best thing you can do, the 180 has a smaller turbo so he's better lower end but runs out of path towards the top end, a small boost leak may cause fluctuating idol, get the boost gauge fitted and then have a look
@@TheParrottBros I ordered one today. But even the ko3s feels like that? This is my first TT, I definitely plan on opening it up exhaust wise
@@jungillestt02 Yeah k03s still tapers off top end
@@TheParrottBros right on, I'll definitely look into at least a ko4
I just installed a boost gauge on my 1.8T 163bhp Roadster 2006. Getting -20 on idle, 0 Ignition off, and about 9PSI any gear when foot is on the Gas.
No tune or exhaust, just silicone boost hoses/intake pipe, Forge diverter valve, Proram air intake, new plugs and coil packs. Does this sound about right?
Yes that sounds about right, I would expect to see about 10-12 so 9 is about right on boost if it holds that
@@TheParrottBros Thank you! Yep it holds about 8-10 when foot is down :)
I find it truly amazing how well you know everything looking under the bonnet! I love my tt. Just spent £920 on a new clutch now to find what's draining my battery? 4th day in the garage and I'm getting worried 😯. I've spent so much on my tt I love it plus its my 1st car so I'm attached to it. But when do you say enough is enough to stop spending. Bout the car for 2k spent almost 5 on it in 3 years 🤔
Chris Bradshaw To be honest mate it’s just years of experience with owning older cars 😂 there is a few things that are quite common for draining the battery on the TT, not to say that this is The only things It could be doing it as they could be hundreds of things,
The most common one is I see:
The Speedo dash cluster, it looks off but when info will stay on behind the scenes
The stereo is another common one
Unfortunately because they are a high end brand such as Audi they are overly complicated and Parts can be very expensive.
Hopefully they get to the bottom of the drain, any issues feel free to give me a message on Facebook or via our website 👍🏻
Thanks dom
Mate I’m 5 grand into a 19 year old s3 that cost 900 quid. I’m fully polybushing and repainting the suspension with some b8s, h and r arbs, replacing all the pipe work. Next year engine turbo 😬
Mike Cochrane I’m there with you, I stopped counting a few thousand ago 😅
My car seems to be in the garage for a minimum of 3 weeks so I wouldn't worry lmao
I would be very greatful if anyone can give me advice.
I own a fiat scudo 2.0 JTD 2001. All of a sudden it has lost power althought it runs oke only the turbo is not as powerful as it was.
1 garage turned off the yellow warning light saying it would fix the issue.
Although it didnt the car still felt as if it was not as powerful as it once was.
Before the turbo really kicked in hard and now almost nothing.
Today I went to the fiat garage they said it was the ECR I had that fixed and that was not the problem.
I also had a new MAFF fitted and still not the issue.
Now I have the ECR blanked off and its still not fixed the issue.
There is no leakages in the pipes.
The garage recommend it could be the intercooler ?
I have read on the internet it could be the boost solenoid ?
Advice would be appreciated.
Thankyou.
Williams David I would recommend you get that pressure tested as it sounds like it could be a boost leak either from pipes or cooler.
Failing that could be your turbo actuator
Could also be boost control sensor. Not up to scratch on fiats I’m afraid.
Any good garage should be able to identify the issue
Top video as always
Thanks John 👍🏻
its it normal if you blow on one of the sides of the Hockey puck thing ( Pcv or whats called ) that the air goes right trough the other side?
Correct, it’s a pressure based valve so operates over a certain pressure
@@TheParrottBros But nothing happens at all. I blow right through it and nothing opens or anything. I don't have to blow hard at all. Is this correct? Shouldn't it only open at a certain pressure? I also have a boost pressure error code, this may have something to do with this since this PCV valve is on the turbo hose?
I have a 2003 TT Quattro, The turbo works fine when first started, then after a few stop lights (5 to 10 minutes) the boost is gone and car runs like a non-turbo charged 2.0 engine. If I turn off ignition and restart engine turbo works fine for same amount of time then craps out again. If you have any thoughts they would be much appreciated. Thanks, Mark
It could be a few things but sounds like possibly a sensor is failing when hot, usually n75 is a culprit, have you plugged it into diagnostics?
hi great vids and watched d nearly all of them ...now my problem is when cold (just warming up) i get about 10 to 12 psi ...so i drive it for about 10 miles ..my boost drops to about 5 psi..no leaks ...n75 reads 35 cold and the same hot
put a reader on it no codes found ..i have ordered a new n75 just to eliminate it
I was going to say would be worth trying to unplug the n75 and see if the issue goes away as it sounds very n75 related
Could you give advice in 2024 for the best place to buy hoses?
Ha if it’s leaking does it go to limp mode? 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎☮️
A big enough boost leak could cause limo mode yes, plus it would run awfully. It depends what pipes you need. If you can look up the part number then search who will deliver to your country or if it can be replaced with silicone hose etc
I get a problem with my TT Mk1 225, if i put my foot down hard from low revs i get a bad holding back like missing and it will keep doing that right upto max revs but if i take off my foot when i first feel it happening to about half throttle it will pull right through to max revs well. I have tried everything, pressure test, changed quite a few pipes too, the code reader does come up with the code p0171, 'system too lean bank1' no other codes, but i can't find any leaks, could it be something in particular i should look at or do you think i am just not finding the leak?
Firstly it would be worth plugging it into a proper computer like vcds as code readers don’t always give the full story. Have you tried unplugging n75 then driving, and same with maf?
That code could be related to a weak fuel pump, and this list of things
Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
Check Fuel Pressure Regulation
Check Fuel Pump
Check Injectors
Check Intake System for Leaks
Check Exhaust System for Leaks
Check Secondary Air System for Leaks
Check Vacuum Pipes for Leaks
@@TheParrottBros Many thanks for the advice, i will see again if i can check some of those, i wouldn't know how to check half of them like the injectors though! It happens so quickly like within 1 second of putting my foot down it always seemed as it if was something electronic, also it will pull through to the redline with power if you feather the throttle, so trying to accelerate the engine from low revs is the problem, if the revs are above 4500 it will respond properly, also i did take it into an Audi main dealer a long time ago when the problem first started, they had it 2 days and gave it back with no charge as they couldn't find the problem after swapping just about everything they could, officially they did say bring it back they were out of ideas after 2 days!!!
@@Rick356A it could be something as simple as a failed maf, n75, an incorrectly fitting n75, all sorts of issues, fuel pump could be struggling to provide enough fuel etc. This is why vcds is good as you can measure what each sensor see’s on idle and driving as well as faults that some code readers won’t
Do you not get a light on in limp mode?? I've not driven one so wouldn't know how it would feel either way.
Not all limp modes give an engine light unfortunately, if you have driven a turbo car, then you should be able to feel the difference between limp mode and no limp mode. Even a standard 225 should feel quick. In limp mode it feels like a nonturbo
@@TheParrottBros decided I want one , finding a decent one for 2 grandish is really hard. All the cars I've enquired about thr people know nothing cant tell me if thr haldex has been serviced or anything. Does a normal service include the haldex ? If its got a fsh does that mean haldex has been done to? Can't seem to beable to find that out. Really don't want to buy another lemon . Last 2 cars we've been spanked and our savings are gone another lemon and we're stuffed. Would you say a higher miler 05 06 plate would be better than a lower miler 2000 2001? Or are they all the same basically? Low miler under 100k are like 4 grand . The ones were looking at are 120 130 up to 160
@@youngstadan4999 Mileage is semi irrelivant when looking at the lower priced cars, the more important information is the service history. If full service history it should have a record of gearbox / haldex/transmission services. if it doesnt you cant prove that its ever been done really.
as long as a car has been driven regularly and maintained a 2001 or a 2006 would be similar, providing faults have been rectified as they arose :)
@@TheParrottBros cheers buddy, yea I did presume that if its got full audi sh it would of been done regular. It's just thr people selling are clueless which is a bit worrying when it's there car hahs. Cheers m8
Really good information. Great video
Thanks buddy
Thanks buddy
i have boost issue like that? if boost build to fast and to high 4-8 it poof check engine . civic 2019 sports
sounds like its logging overboost, check the codes as a car like that should log any faults
@@TheParrottBros then keep saying number 2 misfire but . catalytic was loose 🤣 mechanic may forgot or the honda place wants money..
I forgot to mention one thing on my previous coment. Apart from the chattery noise the car feels it has a lot of torque. More than I was expecting, but as mentioned had never driven a 225 so dont know what to expect…therefore am not sure if it is not overboosting. Dont want to install boost gauge or other not original parts. Want to keep it in its original State. Thanks!
It’s hard to diagnose from a far, have you got a cone filter or has the original air box been modified at all! Usually that’s a common sign of the added noise.
It does have a recirculating / dumpy noise on throttle release and gear changes usually. Could be remapped or just a good 225.
A boost gauge is a good tool for diagnosis
BAM standard what boost numbers should I see at idle and at boost
at idle you would expect to see negative 20ish psi vacuum, on full boost 0.8 bar / 10-12psi
Thank you 😊
What is the air hose that you said was collapsing because that is currently my problem
The one from the puck to the turbo intake pipe ?
I have a 1.8t bam. Any idea why my lambda bank 1 sensor keeps failing? I have had 3 in one year.
That is odd, could be a wiring issue from the plug back to the loom, as otherwise the sensor should be able to take anything the car can throw at it, that or if you are using cheap or poor quality sensors ( not saying your cheap, just a common issue) ive used bosch ones in the past from a reputable company without issue.
@@TheParrottBros Thanks for the advice. Well the car has always had the best stuff. It was recently remapped and the tuner showed me the lambda coming on and then off? I'm just hoping the garage didn't fit me inferior parts as I've lost count how many I have gone through. Thanks.
Hi. Are the N75 valves fitted to the ARY engine?
I've been looking for this. My car is overboosting to 20 psi around 3000rpm and going to limp mode. Hopefully this solves the problem. Thanks
Worth through the list of items shown in the video. Any problems drop me an email. Address in description 👍🏻
I've looked for e-mail in description. Can you please send it.
My car is in a limp mode (5lbs boost steady) and when I unplug the n75 nothing changes. Does this mean it is failing? Or the wiring possibly?
steven purcell unplugging it should make a difference, ideally you want to get it plugged into diagnostic as should show why it’s in limp. You can measure the voltage at the plug got n75, should have 12v at one and 3-4v at other. And on n75 should have 25-35 ohms.
Your not running a blow off valve are you tts don't like them
@@stuartwinstanley4949 I’ll double that down. Had a 50/50 valve and it always went into limp mode. It wants 100% recirculating. Unless you map it out.
Hi mate, I'm getting around 20 PSI in 4th and 5th gear. Have checked and got 30ohms on the n75 when cold, (need to check when engine warmed up too). I was giving all the hoses a proper look around and noticed where the turbo actuator pipe from the N75 goes into the turbo that there is no metal clip anymore!!! Could see some fresh and shiny metal and could move the turbo actuator pipe up and down the metal connecting tube, assume that would cause some issues with this maybe? Likely small air leak down there. Any other tips on diagnosing overboost would be appreciated! I've already fitted a catch can to get rid of the pesky pcv system ;)
You could stick a cable tie or small jubilee clip on it just to make sure it’s not leaking. Over posting there could be a number of reasons for that. Is it ok in 1/2/3rd? 10-12 psi?
@@TheParrottBros Yeah i'm gonna get a clip on it on the weekend once I've taken some things off to get to it. And second and third gear are fine yea, mainly seems to happen in higher gears and occasionally boost cuts during higher gear pulls too. I'm leaning towards replacing n75 but will give it a test once the engines warm at some point first
@@LOZARATOR It could well be that, just strange it happens in higher gears only, best thing to do it unplug it and go for a drive, will run at less power but should be same in all gears. if it is then likely n75
Hi I have the same problem with the wire than you … could you help me to know how to fixed? Thank you so much
You need to work out how far back it’s broken then replace that piece of wire to the point it’s ok. You can re pin the plug if it’s that close to the plug
So since my remap I've been getting turbo 'flutter' when letting off the power or changing gear. Car had an aftermarket blow off/diverter valve (capped off as when releasing to atmosphere the car would cut out at traffic lights!).
Looking on forums lots of people saying faulty/worn DV so I've just bought and fitted a new OEM (latest updated design) but it's still fluttering.
Any ideas? Should I not worry about it?
Have you fitted a filter recently? As that makes the sound louder, does it still pull hard all the way through the Rev range?
Remember when mapping a car you are almost doubling the boost pressure so it will have more pressure to dump.
Also have you fitted the dv the correct way? Just asking as have seen this happen in past
@@TheParrottBros the aftermarket one said to fit the opposite way to standard. As the new one is standard, I fitted it back the other way.
I have just flipped it the other way and gone out, it's not fluttering as much, it's kind of half 'tssst' and then flutter if that makes any sense! 😂
I did read somewhere that for whatever reason Audi used to fit them the wrong way round.. something to do with having wrong length pipes but saved money replacing pipes by flipping the diverter??
@@TheParrottBros ..oh, yes fitted a piper x panel filter
And pulls like a horse
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Hi, I'm experience hesitation while accelerating, between 2000rpm - 3000rpm, then it goes like nothing is bad.
Also, the idle is a bit rough, nothing major, but the needle bounces a bit.
Ive checked for vacuum leaks, replaced a few lines, the problem seemed solved, but it is present again.
Maybe MAF or throttle body (which I already clean, mb not calibrated)?
Have you tried unplugging your maf then driving. That should stop the issue. If it
Does you may need a new
Maf. I wouldn’t worry about the calibration too much
@@TheParrottBros I did what you suggest, the car runs a lot better, no hesitation.
I will try clean it using Liqui Moly product before buy a new one.
@@AssinaturaPicazica great stuff, sometimes it’s the simplest things. If you do replace it make sure you get a genuine Bosch one, after market ones often give inaccurate readings and or fail
How can I fix the turbo boost at 30, 50 and 120 RPM.
Can you re phrase what you mean as that doesnt make sense to me
Does the n75 throw up codes? As I’ve got an issue with boost between 1500-2000rpm where it just cuts boost (not fully) but still boosts after but doesn’t feel 180bhp as mines the AUQ engine feels more 140ish (not for cert)
It can do, but it’s not guaranteed that’s what makes it annoying. Have you got a multi meter with an ohms test feature. Would make it easy to tell? Also have you got a boost gauge?
Had a question why does my car boost to 15 lbs when my car is cold and when it starts to get warm it only hits 5lbs any help i swapped the n75 :( driving me crazy
Hmm thats odd, sounds like a sensor is failing, do you get the same issues with the new n75?
@@TheParrottBros yes has the same issues with the new n75 as well
@@TheParrottBros can it be that i installed the diverter on backwards?
Hi ,good video .
My Mk 4 golf 1.8 20v from cold is all
Nice but longer I drive it it’s got this problem - it’s building boost to 1.4bar and drop it build it back up and drop it .starting nicly and holding good idle .i did replaced all PCV pipes but it was eBay special.Swapped N75 ,swapped diverted valve still the same .When boost leak tested to 20 psi and spray soapy water small bubbles from under rocker cover gasket around timing chain tensioner area (gasket was replaced before ) Disconnected MAF - still the same .
On same occasion it’s only boosting 0.4 bar but generally it’s build boost and drop .i can’t wait to get to the bottom of it
This is a discussion I have very often, did you buy a genuine N75 valve? You could have a bad actuator or waste gate on the turbo, I would recommend taking it to a specialist for a look over before you spend too much money
Can u do a tutorial on the coolant system
Any thing in particular? or just what pipes go where