Not a fan of N249 delete unless the system has failed already and don’t want to replace, as you said it is a fail safe to stop major damage if the n75 or DV fails. I would also keep the Puck when you fit the catch can system. Nice video with great angles to let people see what they need to do 👍
Yep keeping the puck, saves that horrible oily smell you get with a filtered vent. The N249 was really fascinating to learn about. Most people just rip it out without thinking about it. I don't know if mine works or not since the engine was bought on its own. I still have it all though, so it can easily go back if it needs to (and I'd devise a way of mounting it a bit neater than factory too). Glad you liked the video, more coming!
Very cool. Thank you for explaining all of these hoses. I am getting the APR stage 1 tune finally next week and am pretty exited. I would love to simplify all of my hoses too, they are so ugly, but it's not easy figuring out what all this spaghetti does.
thank You for explaining the importance of the N249, I kept telling people about this often get ignored and they wonder why they suddenly get turbo surge when they remove it.
Next part is already being filmed. Taking a bit longer because it's more complicated stuff, but it'll be proper progress. Really appreciate the support, keeps me going 👍
currently swapping a 1.8t into my 1.6 16v mk4 golf wagon, and ive been endlessly researching whether or not to delete the n249 or not, and after watching this video ive decided to ditch it and maybe later hide all the bits somewhere and keep it connected SAI and N112 are just useless, cant be bothered trying to get evap working so id rather delete it for a cleaner bay
A lot!i have an issue with the vacuum system!it's like an whistle,when i accelerate,the turbo it's brand new,all the hoses are good,all the tubes are new an it has an whistle!i want to delete all that sistem!
Thanks, the answer is ultimately down to whether the system is giving you problems and if so, whether you consider fixing it worth the cost. Personally I don’t believe removing it for the sake of it is advisable, I did it because of space constraints on my conversion. All I set out to do is explain what it is and how it works, then people can make that judgement for themselves with that knowledge in mind.
I did actually question that. Seems strange to use a solenoid to control vacuum to the DV when the solenoid itself could be the DV. I reckon that by doing it this way, the DV can open using manifold pressure should the N249 fail.
The pipe from the crank case and from the valve cover go into catch can, then the can either vents to atmosphere via a filter, or it goes back into the intake.
If you’ve removed that system then you’ll either need to have it coded out of the ECU, or trick it into thinking it’s there by using a resistor on the plug, I don’t know what value you’d use though.
Hey, I enjoyed your video, thanks, question if you don't mind, what company did you send your ECU to and how much were the deletes? Thanks for the informative video 😊👍
Yes you'd get a CEL, unless you have the systems mapped out of the ECU or you install resistors in place of the sensors to trick the ECU into thinking they're still there.
I've seen various posts on forums where people have DIY'd them, and I've also seen mentions of kits for sale, often from forum members. It's hard for me to recommend anything specific because I don't have any experience with it, opting to map them out instead.
I can't see any downside as far as fuelling is concerned. The only drawbacks will be a vacuum controlled instead of an ECU controlled DV, and you'd be removing a failsafe for the wastegate.
your n249 will be connected to your diverter valve on one side then the other side of the n249 will be connected to your intake manifold, instead you run your diverter straight to that manifold
You keep going on about turbo surge but your wrong. Your going on about turbo flutter when boost pressure goes back into the turbo when you lift off. Turbo surge is when the turbo produces too much boost that whag the engine can accept
Compressor surge is what causes the flutter sound. It sounds like what you're describing would also cause compressor surge, assuming no BOV is fitted and the wastegate isn't doing its job.
I don’t think there is a benefit. The only reasons people do it is to tidy up the engine bay or because they believe it improves response. I think that by removing the system entirely, it eliminates a vacuum leak somewhere and that’s why it seems to have a benefit, the same benefit they would have had if they had located and fixed the vacuum leak. I’m removing mine because I simply have no room for it, I actually think it’s a clever, albeit messy system.
This is probably the clearest, most thorough explanation of these systems on TH-cam. Video is nice too. Very very well done.
Appreciate that, thank you!
Stayed ton watch cause of this comment and figured out the problem!! I need the evap line, if you still have it im willing to buy it off you😊😅
Description is incorrect. Your on about turbo flutter not surge
definitely
Not a fan of N249 delete unless the system has failed already and don’t want to replace, as you said it is a fail safe to stop major damage if the n75 or DV fails.
I would also keep the Puck when you fit the catch can system.
Nice video with great angles to let people see what they need to do 👍
Yep keeping the puck, saves that horrible oily smell you get with a filtered vent. The N249 was really fascinating to learn about. Most people just rip it out without thinking about it. I don't know if mine works or not since the engine was bought on its own. I still have it all though, so it can easily go back if it needs to (and I'd devise a way of mounting it a bit neater than factory too). Glad you liked the video, more coming!
This clearly is the best and detailed video on TH-cam. You just got a like and a sub
Thank you :)
Very cool. Thank you for explaining all of these hoses. I am getting the APR stage 1 tune finally next week and am pretty exited. I would love to simplify all of my hoses too, they are so ugly, but it's not easy figuring out what all this spaghetti does.
thank You for explaining the importance of the N249, I kept telling people about this often get ignored and they wonder why they suddenly get turbo surge when they remove it.
That's not turbo surge
@@Wangsian199 when a turbo makes a stustu sound its turbo surge
What a brilliant video, great editing and really useful info. I am doing a mid engine conversion on a Peugeot 107 with an AUM
Glad it helped, that’s the same engine I have :)
Keep us updated pal we’re all extremely interested been watching since 50 views on first vid 👍
Next part is already being filmed. Taking a bit longer because it's more complicated stuff, but it'll be proper progress.
Really appreciate the support, keeps me going 👍
currently swapping a 1.8t into my 1.6 16v mk4 golf wagon, and ive been endlessly researching whether or not to delete the n249 or not, and after watching this video ive decided to ditch it and maybe later hide all the bits somewhere and keep it connected
SAI and N112 are just useless, cant be bothered trying to get evap working so id rather delete it for a cleaner bay
I was searching am video like this for a long long time! 💪💪💪💪👋👋👋
Hope it helped!
A lot!i have an issue with the vacuum system!it's like an whistle,when i accelerate,the turbo it's brand new,all the hoses are good,all the tubes are new an it has an whistle!i want to delete all that sistem!
You should do an MCM style "Step 1. Remove your engine"
That would be at the start of every video. May as well integrate it into the intro lol
I too am deleting the e vap system and the timing chain and radiator in hopes it will rocket me to the moon. Wish me luck.
Good luck!
Those clips at 16:25 are for the loom I believe, currently swapping the motor in my mk1 tt.
Solid video, but I didn't really catch if I should do it or not.
Thanks, the answer is ultimately down to whether the system is giving you problems and if so, whether you consider fixing it worth the cost. Personally I don’t believe removing it for the sake of it is advisable, I did it because of space constraints on my conversion. All I set out to do is explain what it is and how it works, then people can make that judgement for themselves with that knowledge in mind.
Can you not use a electronic means for the N249 system so you're not reliant on vacuum systems? Can the diverter valve be an electronic one instead?
I did actually question that. Seems strange to use a solenoid to control vacuum to the DV when the solenoid itself could be the DV. I reckon that by doing it this way, the DV can open using manifold pressure should the N249 fail.
Just found your channel and caught up, great work so far, can't wait to see the next bit of fabrication 😀
Thank you very much! Work on the mounts is underway.
I am with him on that one . I need to see what you will do next
Busy with a 225 apx engine swap in my vw t4 i binned all that shit trying to make it a standalone ecu set up as much as possible
Completely makes sense on a standalone ECU
Where did you send your ECU? I'm looking for somewhere to send mine!
Stealth Racing if you’re in the UK. There are others but that’s who I used.
Love your videos!
Keep up the good work. Subscribed!
Thank you :)
Hey, does anybody know how to connect the vacuum lines if I want to keep the n249? I have already removed sai pump and combi valve.
My crank case ventilation is broke too i DIY a new one but what is this catch can idea i could use instead?
The pipe from the crank case and from the valve cover go into catch can, then the can either vents to atmosphere via a filter, or it goes back into the intake.
yes yes and yes!!!
Keep up the videos
very complex job.... Master 😎
who did you have tune your ecu?
I haven't had it tuned yet, but Stealth Racing removed the systems from the ECU.
thank you!
@@cgten
The clips on the front of the engine are for the loom
How do you run an expansion tank without the hard lines under the intake manifold
I'll be making my own line that goes to the other side of the bay.
@@cgten that makes sense, do you plan on making a video on that?
Yep it's all getting covered 👍
Whit a tune can delete the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ?
If the CEL is because of the SAI or Diverter control solenoids not being connected, those can be coded out by a competent tuner.
@@cgten is p2403 evap leak detention pump sense circuit open
If you’ve removed that system then you’ll either need to have it coded out of the ECU, or trick it into thinking it’s there by using a resistor on the plug, I don’t know what value you’d use though.
I love your video man
Thank you!
Where did u send ur ecu? Thinking of doing the same thing😁
There'll be a few places that do it, but I sent mine to Stealth Racing in the UK.
Hey, I enjoyed your video, thanks, question if you don't mind, what company did you send your ECU to and how much were the deletes?
Thanks for the informative video 😊👍
I sent it to Stealth Racing in the UK, paid £190 for the immobiliser, evap and SAI removal. N249 will be coded out during tuning.
Italian tune up 😂
Do you get a check engine light ? If so can it be turn off some how ?
Yes you'd get a CEL, unless you have the systems mapped out of the ECU or you install resistors in place of the sensors to trick the ECU into thinking they're still there.
@@cgten anywhere I can get the resistors or they need to be diy ?
I've seen various posts on forums where people have DIY'd them, and I've also seen mentions of kits for sale, often from forum members. It's hard for me to recommend anything specific because I don't have any experience with it, opting to map them out instead.
Is the cel the only downside? Does it make the car run rich or lean if you don't get them mapped out?
I can't see any downside as far as fuelling is concerned. The only drawbacks will be a vacuum controlled instead of an ECU controlled DV, and you'd be removing a failsafe for the wastegate.
Hi mate where’s a good place to run a vac line to the diverted after the delete ?
Anywhere off the intake manifold I believe.
your n249 will be connected to your diverter valve on one side then the other side of the n249 will be connected to your intake manifold, instead you run your diverter straight to that manifold
You keep going on about turbo surge but your wrong. Your going on about turbo flutter when boost pressure goes back into the turbo when you lift off. Turbo surge is when the turbo produces too much boost that whag the engine can accept
Compressor surge is what causes the flutter sound. It sounds like what you're describing would also cause compressor surge, assuming no BOV is fitted and the wastegate isn't doing its job.
No you shouldn't
Why not
@dezeleukeman1166 Because it’s a useful system when it’s working properly. When it’s not then it ought to be fixed.
Nobody.. and I mean nobody EVER explains why you should remove it. It's not in this video either. WHAT IS THE ACTUAL REASON/BENEFIT?
I don’t think there is a benefit. The only reasons people do it is to tidy up the engine bay or because they believe it improves response. I think that by removing the system entirely, it eliminates a vacuum leak somewhere and that’s why it seems to have a benefit, the same benefit they would have had if they had located and fixed the vacuum leak. I’m removing mine because I simply have no room for it, I actually think it’s a clever, albeit messy system.
Still waiting @cgten loving the content
Editing part 6 right now!
Need you in my garage for helping me 😂🫡 Anyway, form today Im your subscriber, thx for the video!
Thank you for watching!