How to Delete SAi / Combi V / PCV / N249 / EVAP | MK2 1.8t Swap Pt. 5
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- In Pt.5 of the MK2 1.8t Swap we Delete the SAi, Combi Valve, PCV, N249, and the EVAP off the MK4 1.8t engine. I cap off as many vacuum lines as I can and we talk about the catch can set up.
Contents In Video
0:00 - Intro
2:12 - SAI
3:10 - Combi Valve
4:18 - PCV
5:27 - N249, N112
8:30 - EVAP
12:02 - Block off Plate Install
15:30 - Vacuum Cap Everything
Threads I used
DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete
forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...
www.myfastgti.com/volkswagen/...
Step by Step How to Swap Mk2 Golf 1.8t | PARTS LIST | Pt.1
www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJaOK...
Is your MK2 CE1 or CE2 | What wires to Remove | Plug & Play harness Install Pt.2
www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5tmU...
How to swap MK2 1.8t | B4 Passat Pedals, , Pedal Adapter, Install Pt3
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb8YB...
How To Swap MK2 1.8t | MK4 O2J Shift Box, MK3 Gas Tank and Subframe Install Pt 4
• How To Swap MK2 1.8t |...
Channels I like to Watch
@Donut
@HumbleMechanic
@joerogan
#MK2swap #EVAPdelete
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Jake Rawson
2720 70th Ave E
Fife, WA 98424
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how did 8 people dislike this? he breaks down the entire engine, easily 4 hours of information, in 20 minutes without skipping anything. those 8 of u that disliked this are going straight to hell
They some hater's . He taught me some real good shit!!!!!!
they are from Australia man!!! they see upside down! they thought is was the like button
They must be Honda boys
It's usually the people that have no uploads of their own and or no subscribers. They just dislike everything to be idiots.
The dislikes are from the VW engineers who designed all the systems he pulled off their engine.
Deleting all that emissions stuff off these is a must for anyone serious about making any power, and definitely much more reliability. Just the PCV system alone is a nightmare, and with age, the plastic hoses are so brittle. Not to mention it'll cost you a small fortune to replace them. You're already starting with the best flowing head too, so good work.
keep on teaching, we're listening
Thank you 🙌🏼
Listening and learning a lot...
Still listening
Great and informative as usual, it’s nice to see all that stuff being pulled off the engine. Helps keep the mk2 a bit more back to basics old Skool.
Also don't know if it's been mentioned but the poor man's way to plug those hoses is to stuff a bolt in the end with a worm clamp.
I cant wait to get 1.8t engine /car to follow along..thank u so much for sharing and teaching us ways to make 1.8t trouble free engine. Keep up the good work
This guide is fantastic! Love seeing an updated video with awesome resolution to go with it. Detailed to the t
Thank you very much
Awesome video and I love the way you edited to saying do this then fwd the actual removal. Great editing job!
When I did my delete I ran one line from the valve cover and one from the 90 degree crank case elbow into a “Y” that went into a catch can. Then a line from the catch can into the hockey puck. Solves the problem of having to plug the hockey puck hole in the turbo inlet pipe. Great video, keep it up! Stoked to see how this project turns out.
Ryan Hautau yep. That how it’s done. I use a 3port catch can two inlet and one outlet. The valve cover and crankcase breather hoses hook up to the two inlets independently and the outlet goes to the hockey puck.(PCV valve)
Did it help with oil use?
@@xplicitmetal does the puck/pcv valve need to stay installed for some reason?
@Great Lakes Logger no ,if you have catch can and your pcv valve (out from engine block) closing good then not.
Great video a lot more better than the other more detailed and more straight forward thanks a lot keep it up 👌👌👌
Thank you everything I needed to learn in one video thank you hope to see more on the 1.8t from you
My brother man . You just took a pretty hard to understand concept for me and slam bam u put it In a video that was easy to watch and I know could tell you how to fully delete a 1.8t and am fully confident in how it works and what to do. Keep making these about mk4 1.8ts i and I’m sure thousands of others would greatly appreciate it
Thanks
Glad the vid helped out
Best explanation I’ve ever seen for these deletes.
🙏🏼thank you
It doesnt look like it is the first. You did very well. I am getting myself 1.8t and i am following along. Thank you for sharing skills with us.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Appreciate the positivity 🙏
huge help solved a lot of big mysteries for me on my big turbo set up!
Glad it helped
Honestly helps a lot I can’t really do much because my Audi isnt really helping I don’t really know the problem to my Audi it doesn’t hold its rev when I start it but this video means a lot it’s really shows the engine
Wonderful, I like de process and all the specific parts to clean, am very grateful, you helped me a lot to solve it and above all to learn, because I have an ibiza cupra 1.8t 20v and no video explains it too, congratulations. greetings from Mexico🇲🇽
Jake keep making great videos man.
This is fantastic your vid much easier to follow than pictures lol
I've been searching for info on the cheap mk4 I got my hands on and this was the most informative video I've been able to find. I don't know much about this engine and this helped soooo very much. Thank you!
Great info dude, keep up the good work!!
Thank you appreciate it
BEST VIDEO FOR THIS DELETE!! Thank You so Much
Your welcome glad it helped
Nice! This video helps tremendously! I'm also doing a 1.8t swap but it's going in my mk1 jetta.
Thank you I like hearing these are actually helping people. Thanks for taking the time to comment
Nice. Exactly what I have in mind.
Нормальный обзор, который приятно смотреть))) nice, like.
I’m following this, just bought a mk2 1.3c to convert an AGU into and this is my instruction manual!
I hope with this video and the diy link I put at the bottom it will be easy for you.
The only difference I think between yours and mine is that my engine (agu) runs throttle cable so I think I can use my existing 1.3 throttle cable? I think I still need the Corrado/b4 pedal assembly to allow me to fit the clutch master still. Another question if I use the 02j box, do I still need to fit a g60 clutch and vr6 flywheel with the AGU/02J combination?
Thanks dude, gonna follow this for my 2001 1.8T Ibiza Cupra
What I find works well too is leave a short portion of hose and plug it with a bolt and secure with a hose clamp. That's in case you don't have hose caps or don't have the correct sized one.
Literally the video iv been trying to find
oh my god working on this engine out of the engine bay must be a dream
Excellent video 👌🏻
Best guy on TH-cam !!
Best sai delete vid I've seen I have a bunch of sai parts I still need to take off lol man awesome vid your awesome
Thanks Chris
My Audi A4 was running rough so I did the vacuum delete sai and evap delete runs amazing now with no check engine light relly helped thanks a lot
Appreciate it, glad the vid helped you out.
Hi,
Is it still running well ?
Is it passing emissions?
Just bought my Audi A4 1.8T BEX and after changing pcv, plugs, coils, new rocker cover gasket it still runs lumpy on morning start for a minute or two...then it settles and runs well...gives me headache at this stage.
great info helping me out with my build
Great work. Hoping to do my own swap soon.
Cant wait for you to get to the motor mounts. I have no earthly idea how to do them....and another very informative video...
Yep transmission is next but I’ve got some parts to order. Then I’ll be getting it in there.
I didnt know but tip. YOU NEED NEW MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS when replacing the motor mounts.. i didnt and one side of my engine came free and got 1" from hitting the floor .. .
Thank you for the video and all the info
You saved me
extremely helpful video
Great job sir👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good video Jake
Thanks
Great video!
You helped me out I just have 3 resistors to put on
Great job man! I have 1.8T too but ARX and I`m considering to do the same soon. But, I have a question, what happens with the pipe which goes to the turbo actuator? I dont see if you do something with it and we need pressure there ?
Appreciate the extra time. On the car it's a pain enough 2 do than show. Most skip the doing it step n shove their phones in n hope we see what they are. Getting the idea of it best I can with my 04 passat awm 1.8T manual. Uve come the closest to fully explaining it properly so thanks much...
I've got a 2005 awm passat with the zf automatic. I bought the car with ecu power issues and a bad trans. I pulled the engine and trans and I'm about done rebuilding both. Now I've got to figure all the vacuum stuff out without knowing what went where and apparently no one has ever done a video on sai, evap, pcv, and n75 deletes for the b5/b5.5 platforms. Tons of stuff on the Mark IV for example, but nothing on a passat or a4.
@@GreatLakesLogger nice. I do plan on adding the delete with a non chintzy catch can as well. Shortly after getting it I pulled out and replaced the diverter valve and I found the lovely oil there. So when I get my next check I'll be changing out 2 a hidden front mount intercooler and that catch can which will be relatively close to the motor. Even though I store it 4 the winter here in WI I still start it often to maintain functionality of everything. Fortunately for me the motor runs quieter than my mahs 2014 fiesta Titanium and I recently replaced the gasket that sits between the trans and engine. Shifting has no hesitation I do hate the non adjustable hydraulic clutch but having it the way it is prevents it from wearing out for those who cant shift properly. Be awesome to see that roar to life. I typically scream our loud ITS ALIVE! when I finish with a project. LOL stay safe my friend.
@@s.o.s.exploration2412 cool👍 I also live in WI, just east of Eau Claire. I just ordered a 2 port mishimoto catch can this afternoon from Summit. Hopefully I can get that to work good. Your yelling "it's alive!" reminds me of Derrick from VGG😃
@@GreatLakesLogger hehe. Well I'm not far off. I'm closest to Portage. Crazy how you purchase brand new break rotors and within a week they start rusting all around. Can't stand it which is why my Granny Sleeper is parked in a garage. Wisconsin one of the few places to recieve all 4 seasons in one day.
@@s.o.s.exploration2412 😃 as one of my friends tells people, last year summer was on a Wednesday! I love it though. My oldest brother bought a 2005 Jetta TDI from a used car dealer in Portage. Actually not sure if that was Portage, but it was just off 94 at the portage exist. Really nice car, tuned, injectors, turbo, and upgraded clutches in the dsg. Had it a few years then totalled on the way back from seeing his girlfriend in PA. A semi was almost stopped on the interstate in front of him and he didn't notice until too late. The car went under the rear bumper of the trailer. Didn't so much as scratch the engine cover, but it shoved the window in, the dash back, and buggered all the frame in that area. He was fine aside from a scratch on his arm from the glass in a picture frame (his girlfriend) he had propped up in the center console. We were glad he was OK (obviously) but it was such a shame his car was so mashed.
where's the next one dude? I'm swapping along with you , lets get this quarantine build going
Quarantine build I like that lol. Yes this audi is taking more of my time then I want right now. Keep finding more crap wrong.
Hope to be back on the mk2 soon
Thanks from Sweden 🇸🇪 👌
I think the steering pump is the same if I remember correctly you can use it with A2 system. The difference is the bends on the A2 sub frame hard lines to the steering reservoir and you can use the A3 one they bolt up easy. I did a few conversions, I did a G60 conversion into an A2 Jetta and used all the accessories. You may need to clearance the subframe ,keep that in mind you will see it .great job loved the video ,i will follow the project 👍
Thanks for the info
Nice video! Doing a 1.8t swap on my mk2 golf aswell. I got the AQX motor out of a seat ibiza cupra 6k2
Heck ya man. Can't wait to drive mine
Hi and thank you for great video .only two questions I have got unless I have missed this ,what happen to vacuum going to turbo waist gate and fuel pressure regulator?
Many thanks 🙏🏻
great video brother
Thanks Jun
just a heads up those hard lines are held on under the fuel rail so you can get them off reasonably easily, top video man, just what I needed 👌
you forgot the line that goes from the intake to the fuel regulator other than that you make a great tutorial on how to do a full sai delete!
Cool work
Thats a real nice altenator i think you should keep it
Regards to the coolant hardlines, the one you have is from a automatic that had a transmission cooler. Just get a manual hardline and swap them in.
Great video per usual man.
Awesome thanks for confirming that. I need to get to picknpull to get a bunch of little stuff
excellent video! i have a vw jetta gli 1.8t mk4 ... but it is TIPTRONIC transmission ... can i do the same procedure? Does the transmission affect anything?
Those two hardliners can be deleted with the intake removed but one is a coolant line for coolant return to the expansion tank.
I only learned from accidently mixing two like an idiot and having to tear apart everything to clean coolant from everything when it contaminated my sai system.
Now deleting.
For anyone trying to keep most factory air hoses,
Run the crank case breather 90 elbow to the valve cover to an inlet to a catch can and run the outlet of it to the larger turbo inlet pipe, where he mentions needing looking for something to plug it.
If you delete the hockey puck, be careful as its the only thing that saved my motor from coolant ruining everything
Question, so I've done the whole EVAP delete. Now my real question, can I completely delete that hard line for the coolant return? Is it truly necessary?
Cut 2 inches off a wood broom stick and use those to cover the big holes then secure with clamp
Great Video! Gave me a better understanding of what waits for me as I am debating whether to delete the SAI. I’ve just installed an Integrated Engineering Catch Can and I love the crank case elbow and the port for the valve cover of the kit. Give it a look if you ever decide on a catch can. If I delete anything it may only be the SAI but leave the EVAP. I’ve taken notice of how many have went back and put their EVAP system back on but we’ll see.
Best instuctional video for sai delete ive seen
Thank you, learned a lot on this one. I still cant believe how much stuff came off.
@@JakeRawSon i need to do all that myself but need to get resistors catch can caps and a blanking plate it deletes so much stuff that you dont really need
muy buen video saludos desde argentina
Gracias. Donde en argentina
Plug the big, medium and small holes like that hose at 14`27` using an cutted poliuretan tubes with that measures and tight up with the "screw belts" i accept t-shirt for this advice ;)
Leaned how to reroute my catch can. Thanks
Thanks for talking the time to comment. It’s nice to know some of my videos are helping
@@JakeRawSon Are you going to have them coded out when it comes time? Or run with the check engine light?
Awesome video!! I’m doing this to my vr6.... do you have to do anything to the ecu after this ? I haven’t been able to start it yet cause I’m still doing other thing to the motor
You don’t have to. You’ll just get codes for emissions stuff
There is only part.5 available.
What haplened to other parts?
GREAT knowledge on this matter. Thanks man!
Part 6 and all the rest are still available
Thanks for the video !
So I am trying to instal the 034 breather kit - in the process , when removing the plate with the n249 I busted a bunch of tiny pipes. Im not looking to delete any of it, but I am lost as of where each one of them were plugged to. Right at 5:33 you have a great picture of what Im talking about. what does "to DV" mean? Also, were would I be able to get good, not necesarily oem hard pipes from that assembly?
Diverter valve. And I get all the small vacuum lines at a hardware store.
very helpful video, thanks for sharing with us.
would you know if cutting the harness that goes to all the connections to the vape system and n249 solenoid valves, would it make the car not start.
It should still start. What codes does it have?
@@JakeRawSon I had inyector 3 and 4 connectors mixed up, it starts now. but now i have another problem with the wipers turning on when I try to turn the light on they wont turn on now
Hi really cool video ! But where is the following one with catch can ? Thanks !
Thanks for the video, it helps a lot even on a a4 b6... Are there specific plugs you recommend using?
No, I’m still trying to find one plugs that I like better
Hey I found these plugs yesterday, I think I’m going to use them for my Audi.
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Great instructional video ,I'm doing the same swap 🤟 ,do you know if is necessary to tune the ecu to delete all that stuff ?
I’m pretty sure it usually just puts the engine light on in the mk4s. But they make plugs for them to trick the system. And yes when you delete the immobilizer for mk2 swap you can have them delete emission with it.
@@JakeRawSon how do you delete the immo? can it be done at home?
thanks man
can you make a video on what to do with the SAI harness? and where to place resistors?
hey jake awesome videos learning a lot . just a question i got a agu engine that i wanna swap into a mk1 , what is done in this video is basically the same i would have to do to for an mk1 swap ? ( no power steering )
Yep same thing 👍🏼
@@JakeRawSon nice gonna watch this clip couple more time 😁
Well done Jake. Starting to think it's easier to just swap a VR and turbo it than it is to deal with 1.8T spaghetti.
Man if i was swapping in a vr it would be done by now lol. And down the road we might see how long it takes to swap in a vrt :)
@@JakeRawSon yeah. Taking notes on this build for my AEB 1.8T syncro Corrado that I'm getting back around to this summer.
Keith Hache aeb has less stuff but a little more work to get it done
@@k.a.r.z3544 heah. Already have thw aba stuff and shaved pulley
Keith Hache what about the oil pan?
Since I have the combi delete, would I better off getting rid of the EVAP system Or is it still fine?
Also When I have the diverter valve connected to the intake where you connected yours, it starts to lope and idle rough, but runs fine with it disconnected. Could that mean it’s gone bad?
👍 thanks for info awesome DIY
Thank you appreciate it.
Hey nice video. Do you have an idea how much power you would gain from removing all of that stuff? Thanks.
If there are no leaks in the original system you should not really get any power difference perhaps more responsive throttle response. With the amount of pipework in the original system there's a high probability that something is leaking especially if you have not replaced the pipework. Any leak can make a huge impact in the power the car makes. I would suggest doing a smoke leak test to see what needs replacing if you are not sure you want to delete everything and deal with the relevant ecu codes. Check boost pressure with a diagnostic machine mate.
So if you remove the N112 for the EGR (AKA combi valve) that will effect emission testing and have to be reinstalled for a certificate? Also I assume running a direct vacuum line from the manifold rather (than the N249) will benefit the DV to perform better?
I’m not sure about emission testing we don’t have any here. Yes the DV performs better straight front intake manifold
Perfect video man! Is this also "safe" to do on a 1.8T ANB engine?
I think so
@@JakeRawSon Plenty of things were obviously bit more complicated than in your video, since the engine is newer, but I have done it and the engine sounds so thankful! Thanks for your video, haven't seen anything as helpful in a while.
Wondering if this is something I should do first to my car before anything else?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I am learning bit by bit about cars and engines, so I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question to some. In a quick sum up, what does deleting these systems do for your car? Is it mainly just to declutter the engine bay, or does it affect performance?
it’s 10 months later but it slightly helps performance but the main reason is these cars have a lot of problems over times with all those extra lines, they’ll start cracking and leaking and you can take them off because they’re mainly just for emissions, also it’s a pain in the arse to do ANYTHING in that engine bay with all the extra lines and hoses
Hi this great and I'd love to do it to my 1.8t audi TT, when this is complete will it give error codes and dashboard lights. Or do you plan to have them coded out in the ecu.
yes it will give you codes and lights on the dash until you code out the ecu
Hello, buddy. I have a 1.8t aum engine and it's got all this stuff. I want to take it off, too. I'm interested in what I get with this. And do you have anywhere when it's all over? thank you very much and well done on the instructions
Will it need to be reprogrammed or tuned for the strategically relocated parts? And will a open air breather be better or stick with stock? Any help will be appreciated. Great video!
Anybody???
Hello, it will need to be tuned out because removing this stuff will cause a check engine light. My pipe that goes into my EGR(combi valve) is snapped and that’s causing mine
What size blanking caps do I need todo this ?
I assume I would need to keep all this stuff (pcv/evap etc.) on to still pass emissions in Cali? I'm trying to make a Cali legal swap, so I'm curious!
Do you know if there is better performance on a 1.8t AWP using a 3"" full exhaust? I am thinking about it since I have the APR ko4 tune and a hybrid Ko4. Thanks for all the videos !
I do 3" on all 1.8ts. But if the exhaust is already on prob just leave it.
@@JakeRawSon Thanks
What's required to keep the ecu happy after all the deleting?
So basically I want to delete only the SAI, for now at least. So I just cut all those combi valve hoses and plug them off? And block off plate obv
Did it help with oil use?
i would have loved to know the sizes for the caps cus i wont order a 100 dollar kit and pay 200 dollars for shipping so would love to know the mm's
Are there dummy sensor plugs involved with this process to stop throwing codes? Im hearing secondary air flow code can only be eliminated by software tuner. dont want to proceed if the car wont pass inspection.
Ya don’t do it
Does deleting any of this require a tune or throw codes?
at 11:36 can you block that off, I don't want to run a catch can bc I'm in mn and winter but ty if anyone has any info on this
Holy crap this engine is flooded with crap :D Great work Jake! Oh, and please shave it as much as you can, it'll be MUCH prettier :)
How does the diverter respond? When the throttle snaps closed does it cause flutter?
not on my car
excellent video! i have a vw jetta gli 1.8t mk4 ... but it is TIPTRONIC transmission ... can i do the same procedure? affects the box in something?
Yep everything will be the same. This engine had a automatic trans
Excelent brother! So I left those channels you had doubts open?
why i have a P0411 code after delete sai? i delete only secondary air pump
I just bought a MK4 Jetta with the AWP motor.. If I delete these systems will the ecu throw out codes and run properly? Seems like this video was for MK2 owners and not sure if I can do this on my mk4..
It's the same thing for mk4 you just have more stuff to take off on the body of the car.
When your remove all of this stuff will it throw codes and a engine light? If so are there ways to bypass the codes and wouldn’t it basically make the engine run too rich?
Great video too! Very helpful!
Yes is will have the check engine light come on. The only way to get them all off is to get them deleted from the ecu.
If you can delete them from the ecu does that mean you could pass an emission test in NYS?
@@brentkailbourne6152 haha I wish! I don’t think so… they do a visual inspection. You could probably make it look factory but leave it stock though so maybe!