ABS For Dummies Part 2- More on VOCs, Beds and Downdrafts
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2021
- Touching some more on VOCs as the previous video could use a bit more addition information in that regard, also talking about bed surfaces and making sure your hotend fan doesnt mess up your prints
LINKS TO SOURCES
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onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/f...
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Thanks for this, man! Also, great production value and your audio is WONDERFUL.
Its been a work in progress since day one but its comming around nicely i think. Happy to hear you enjoyed the video :)
@@CanuckCreator whats ur thoughts on asa for voron parts, or annealed pla based on Stefan experiments?! I like the thought that asa stinks less, lower voc perhaps.
If you have a magnet you can pick up flex plates at your local home store for cheap. Do slurry work on them to keep your other plate clean. Sometimes on large long prints you might need to clip your plates down as the shrink can pull a plate off the magnet (depending.) Thanks for the VOC coverage too. Great part 2!
I splurged on a recirculating filter, i.e. one that routes the cleaned exhaust back into the enclosure. I just didn't want to have to worry about balancing VoC extraction with enclosure temperature.
Woo lavalier mic! Now just don't touch the wires of it :D
What is the gasket stuff used to seal the panels? All I can find is 3mm foam/rubber for windows that seems too thick to sandwich between an acrylic panel and the extrusion. Square sheets of gasket paper (that I guess would work if cut up a lot and glued on but that seems like a load of work) and specifically shaped parts for cars.
aluminum tape and sparks yes! you need to give a demo of that lol
Great stuff! Thanks for all this valuable info :D
I found the smooth pei plate from energetic adheres better than textured ones when printing with pla or petg. Worried about the magnetic sticker on the bed at 100C demagnetizing.
First of, thank you for your awesome work! Waiting for parts to start my first Voron build.
I've been reading up on the issues of VOC's and toxicity of printing ABS (and ASA) and found the studies you linked to be very interesting in that regard. However i feel that the authors of "Is 3D printing safe? Analysis of the thermal
treatment of thermoplastics: ABS, PLA, PET, and nylon" made an error in their paper when they pointed out that a HEPA filter wouldn't filter out the particles produced by a 3D printer due to the smaller size of the particles. They obviously made the assumption that smaller particles wont be filtered out byt the filters but HEPA filters, from my limited research on the net, actually seem to be very good at filtering out particles with the size of 10-100nm that 3D printers produce and should filter out more then 99% of them.The size of 0.3 µm that HEPA filters target are the hardest to filter out it seems and particles both smaller and larger are more effectively filtered.
Any thoughts on HEPA filters for printing with ABS? I do plan to implement a HEPA-filter to my Voron once it's complete.
The stock design of the v1/v2 includes an exhaust/filter box on the back so added one in there would be easy.
Thanks for info 👍 ABS was the only thing I couldn't print on Artillery sidewinder x1 well.
I look forward to more of this series.
What is the issue?
Been loving your channel, fascinated with the idea of building my own printer... is there a good resource for comparing the different Voron printers, or maybe a video? Many thanks from Wisconsin!
Not really. I was struggling to understand differences and use cases for different Voron models too. It is more like a choice of style and personal likings. Basically it goes like this: V0 is the smallest and cheapest to build, good for small prototypes and confined spaces. Pretty complicated build, though. V2 is the ultimate endgame printer: expensive, large, maybe slightly difficult to tune. V1 was the first one in the series, slighly smaller and cheaper than V2, but it is just a different design. VS is a "side-quest", very easy to build, averagely priced and if you have a Prusa i3, you may consume some parts. VL is another "side quest", created essentially because the master creator had nothing to fix for V0, V1, V2 and VS :D But in the end, all Vorons print very well, are sturdy, reliable and fun to build!
I get good adhesion with 0.01'' thick G10 glued with 3M 467MP on flexplate, the glue is simple Elmer's purple.
this hold PC, ABS, carbon nylon, ONYX, PLA easily
Congrats on 6000+ subs! Quick question, what is the proper way to setup my z offset on my switchwire? I am using the omron TL-Q5MC2 sensor, klipper firmware, and octoprint as my interface.
With the Switchwire, its simply the probe offset itself is your z endstop since there is no seperate Z switch like on the v1/v2 vorons.
(this is the default mini e3 v2 config for example)
[probe]
pin: ^PC2
x_offset: 0.0
y_offset: 25.0
z_offset: 1.85
@@CanuckCreator wow thanks for the quick response! That's easy enough! I'm hoping to get into mainsail soon being it's a simpler interface, but I think I get confused bumping around on the install from mainsail github to klipper then some stuff off the meteyou mainsail github. I had it working once but my klipper said it was dirty and moonraker reported invalid. I think I may have messed up.
Thank you 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks for the info, what did you use for the gasket?
1mm thick foam gasket, adhesive on one side only
Is there a better more accurate bill of materials list for the Voron 2.4 than what's on the design website because between both lists they have different quantities than what the manual calls out.
Sourcing guide may have different numbers due to lot sizes sold or just recommened have extra of a certain item.
sir you sell the voron printer??
I was thinking about using suction for part cooling and attaching a carbon filter on the fan to pull VOCs directly from the cooling plastic. Thoughts?
Suction for cooling probably wont work anywhere well enough to be effective.
See The action lab video about smart phone blowing out a candle. Well the physics part applies, not the actual phone.
You spoke about VOCs but not the micro particles, is there any advice about those? As I understand it, it's the micro particles that are harmful to health rather than the VOCs, and these particles have no smell. Clearly evacuating gases will help, but I'm wondering what happens to the particles if the chamber is not ventilated and is opened after cooling down. Do they remain a danger, are there any protocols advised for dealing with them... or are they just too small to be able to do anything other than venting? Thanks, it's a topic that I think deserves more coverage on TH-cam so thanks for dealing with it and those resources/links.
What microparticles? I don't think melting ABS create any, or does it?
What are your thoughts on PC+, PC-CPE, and other similar PC variants? I have a little experience with both PC+ and ABS and have been successful with both, but PC+ seems to be easier to print (less dependent on heated enclosure) while being able to withstand slightly higher temps (around 110c). I also didn't notice much of an odor while printing PC+. I know there are still advantages to ABS (cheaper and vapor smoothing) but would you use PC+ and other PC variants as an alternative or replacement to ABS for functional parts such as for the Voron?
Thanks for your huge contribution to the 3d printing community!
+1
PC is/can be stiffer, some people have tried it in the past but have experienced cracking issues, also it is degraded by greases and oils, so with bearings/linear rails in the machine there is the chance of contamination.
I see no need for ABS anymore. PETG or CPE prints better and has similar properties wo the stink.
Just having "similiar" properties isn`t always enough. For example PETg while having a higher glass transition temperature than PLA doesnt have the same stability as abs (pet can start to weaken before it "fails). This is commonly seen as screw pullthrough or parts that are under constant tension or compression starting to deform and fail after prolonged use in a warm/heated environment, this has been seen on vorons printed in PETg in the past.
Also need to take into account what can affect plastics used in the printer itself, for example we advice against using PC as it can degrade and break down when exposed to oils and greases. So if your bearings leak into parts it can cause part weakening/breakage.
hey...looking for a Canadian who 3D prints and found you. Where are you?...👍🍁🤠
Hi Nero! Could you share your webcam mount (2:40) please?
Its on thingiverse. Just search voron camera i believe
Printed it like 3 years ago lol
@@CanuckCreator cheers!! Just in case someone else is looking for it: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2029303
Thank you so much for the great effort. It would be great if you can add a link to the supplier of PEI/spring steel sheets on Aliexpress. Thank you.
Earthquake at 5:45
Notice the cut, it was like this for 10 minutes: th-cam.com/video/Y9j3heYZAk8/w-d-xo.html
FYI: Don't attempt to enclose a Prusa. Destroyed mine before getting through a single test cube.
What broke? In my case it was one driver and some printed piece. I reprinted all pieces in ABS and tried to finish an enclosure that could leave the PCB outside but I never got around finishing that.
@@DiThi The part that holds the PINDA, which is the main bulk of the toolhead. Apparently they made that portion stronger in newer revisions.
Basically, the ABS was curling up (as is its wont), and collided with the probe. Since I apparently had bed adhesion solved, and the PETG had gone pretty floppy, the probe got completely torqued sideways.
I can fix it, just have to get someone else to reprint the part.
@@fwiffo I would try to print the part with manual Z homing, like a CNC machine. Just move it until it's correct, then run the gcode G92 Z0 to tell the printer that's Z=0. Edit the gcode of the piece to not home, removing G28 (or only home X and Y, e.g. G28 X Y).
@@DiThi That would involve me being less lazy, which is an untenable proposition. I'll have the part (in ABS) soon enough.
@@fwiffo I know that feel
Why don't Vorons work with glass beds?
Stock configuration uses an inductive probe which needs a metal bed to work.
Their are options now though with surface measuring probes though so glass is possible now
Weird audio starts at 6ish mins. Sounds like mic strikes.
Yup. First time using a lav mic. Didnt have it in the best spot unfortunatly.
@@CanuckCreator audio quality is greatly improved (other than the mic strikes) -- much less echo.
This guy ABS's
Styrene monomer is far more an issue for the fiberglass industry than ABS plastics. Working or living in an ventilated space is always a bad idea.
It's not like I disagree with you, but there are some glaring issues here.
You talk about numbers, and needing them to feel like the VOC's can be harmful, but then only give your opinions on how that's not really the case for you.
Anyway, question, why do vorons not play well with glass beds?