ABS For Dummies Part 3 - Your first ABS prints and slicer settings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- Going over slicer settings and completing out first ABS prints.
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I came back to say after trying esun ABS+, I can say I'm finally able to successfully print with abs!!!
LOVE-LOVE-LOVE the 'This Old Tony' vibes in the intro. This ABS series is undoubtedly your best work (that isn't a livestream - those are awesome too) to date! :D
A vid about overhangs and bridging with abs would be good, i always get curling when i print at 45 degrees
same!
This series (along with the previous 2 parts) is super useful.
If you use a glass bed DON'T USE A DIFFERENT TEMPERATURE FOR FIRST LAYER! After so many failed prints I realized the temperature difference was just enough to make the glass expand and contract. Maybe even wait a minute after temperature has been reached.
Same goes for PLA. Its great because if you keep the bed heated during the PLA print, once its done and cools off, the print pops right off without fuss.
I usually use super glue for hold it on hot bed.n it is easy to release
@@TheOswardo That sounds like it's difficult to clean. I use hair spray. Not any type of hair spray works, but one of the most common ones in my country is perfect for many materials on glass.
9:39 it printend the cleanest in terms of appearance
th-cam.com/video/w09pHPf7yb8/w-d-xo.html
Just a little advise for the Ender 3 (Pro & V2).
If you don't use your part cooling fan, your motherboard fan will also not spin. They are connected together. You can fix this by wiring the motherboard fan to the hotend fan. That should get it up and running all the time, so your steppers won't overheat.
Great video Nero! I’m just starting out with my first printer
, a Qidi I Fast and ABS is high on my list. Thanks for explaining these concepts well. Subscribed!
im prepping for my first ABS prints, great tutorial!
Your content rocks, Nero! Keep it up!
nice, like the format, informative and to the point. Want to build a Voron 0 never worked with ABS. Presently playing with Ender2 and Geeetech A20T. I will be back. Thanks for sharing. PS Dig the Apron!
Increasing bed temp by 5degC to 115 made all the difference for me. Adhesion has been great w. ABS
I would like more information about printing ABS specifically with regards to the V2.4. I've been printing PLA with it the whole time and would like to try ABS in case I need to print replacement parts for any of my printers.
Man, i had to come back to this video to thank you for the tips. A was having a lot o trouble printing ABS with a Creality Ender 6, wich should be a "ready to go" printer for ABS. My problem was the hotend fan making some draft into the printing piece. Just isolated with a bit of alluminum tape and done! Can print with ABS now.
Hey Nero! Love your videos! I'm building my first voron using printed parts from my enclosed mk3s. Is the textured pei sheet going to be OK to use for my voron parts? I only ask because I've had better success with adhesion with the textured sheet, but im worried about the mating surfaces of the parts that have to be assembled. Thnx!
These videos just keep getting better. Well done. May I request a comparison between all the versions of Voron's? (V0, V1, V2, and Legacy)
its on the list.
Hey Nero, great vid. Would like to see a follow up, how you tune your printer for the stuff you told, like first layer or the flow test. Thanks for the awesome content.
Once the switchwire build is fully done
@@CanuckCreator sounds like a good plan :D
In your three tests (from nothing to cardboard enclosure), was there any difference in warping and, more broadly, dimensional accuracy?
in my case since i only print very small parts, i was going around it a bit differently
i basically use 3d printer as a way to make flat parts and then glue them back together, because i use x and y axies as the most accurate ones while on z i leave some plastic to be removed later from gluing surfaces
and i decided to use abs because it was easier for me to glue back together accurately enough by melting edges together with plastic cement and readjusting
my usual parts are in the range of 1 to 5 centimeters long and wide , while the higest are about 1 cm high and i strugle a lot with z axis accuracy, being too squished closer to the bed and then springing back to dimension
and all i did to avoid banana like parts was to use that banana shape as a build in springs to keep my parts together at assembly :P
it is kind of a hacky way but i swaped 04mm nozzle for generic 0.2mm and that also helped a lot because i tuned in my printer profile to pringt much closer , tighter together and since the nazzle also have bigger mass than regular ender one it kind of iron parts together more
and it is a basic ender 3 with no mods while all i did was change some settings as i wanted them to , and some just by try and error, for example the bed temps
i might try the cardboard enclosure but since my parts are usually very small and flat, bed temp is kind of making most of the enclosure problems non isssue anyway
I have a question: what can i do against warping on overhangs (edges curling up on the v0 part cooling ducts for example). My prints are looking flawless...my overhangs like garbage.
Very informative series thank you! What print speed do you run your first layer on your Voron V2.4 please?
25mm/s
You advocate using a ABS slurry. I'm eager to try that as prior attempts (brims, magigoo, draft shields, etc.) failed. But is that safe on a PEI surface buildplate?
Hy ! very usefull movie, thanks.
I am tryng to print my diy direct drive extruder in ABS (actually my prototype is in PETG) and indeed i have a problem with the adhesion between layers.
I use eSun ABS+ White and my printer is parcialy open (open in front)
I have seen than when i print at 100% infil, the adhesion is rely better.
i questionning me about the role of the heatbreak. A classic heatbreak with a PTFE crossing is pearpse not the good solution ? Is it better to use bi-metal Heatbreak ?
Hi, i tried all your tips and tricks, but i am getting a really visible lines i want to uplaod the photo here but i dont know how., i an using esun abs+ do you think i have a bad esun
I have watched these, but they were all things I was already doing, and even with eSun ABS+, an e3d plated copper nozzle, a lack enclosure, and a prusa i3, I can't get anything like accurate parts out of it, just hot messes.
Kind of wish I hadn't ordered parts for a Voron as I don't feel like I will be able to print the printed parts :(
Very informative! Can't find esun abs+ (black) in stock in Canada at the moment. Should I go with esun abs not plus or wait?
esun ABS+ is just a very forgiving abs, newbie friendly abs, if you cant source it using another "good" brand of filament is fine. It just wont be super easy mode.
@@CanuckCreator Thanks! Where do you order your filament normally?
can you show the method you use to adjust flow?
lol if that was overture dark gray i just posted in filaments on the discord with using it to print kvp koils :D it works but i bought it to throw away at cheap projects
What is the bed leveling sensor that you appear to be running across all your machines, do you find it more accurate then bltouch
Pl08/05n
Its cheap..and accurate to a microstep when setup properly. I have a video on my channel on setting it up
Would be nice to show pressure advance, filament tower and other pre preparation steps
I have done a video on Pressure advance already on the channel. Temp tower guides can be found with a quick search its a relatively common thing.
I will try todo a all in one video though for new printer tuning in the future though
What are your recommended retraction settings for Voron 2.4 ?
With the afterburner i run around .7mm of retract at 35mms
Any thoughts on ASA? Is it acceptable for printing Voron parts? From what I've read it should have better material properties overall.
ASA is just abs formulated for for UV resistance for the most part
Their pretty much interchangeable and have near the same material properties.
Which ASA filament brand was that? Ive played around with some d3d sigma ASA and other than being slightly warp happy, behaved just as well as ABS.
CNC Kitchen tested ASA from PrusaFilament. If memory serves me right, it did a little better in some tests such as impact compared to ABS. Take home was that is easier to print with.
Would my E steps change if I calculated them for a .4 nozzle and install a .8 nozzle?
E steps should be set for the amout of filament the extruder moves regardless of if its going through a nozzle. I try to calibrate mine with as little resistance as possible so no hotend hooked up.
Flowrate should then be adjusted in yohlur slicer
Very good advice! I like abs so far. Have you used ic3d abs at all?
I have not
@@CanuckCreator is a little more expensive. Usa company. I found them on Amazon and printed solid. Seems good so far!
@@MD-NWWI ya i would need to ship it across the border it seems
@@CanuckCreator Amazon Canada might have some?
@@MD-NWWI there is. But its like 80+ a spool. So its reseller scalping prices
What is the name of this tiny cute printer. I want to build this. Where can I find it
Do you plan to build a Voron Legacy in a stream?
No immediate plans. Got a full plate of stuff ahead with switchwire. Ender3 and the v1 higher temp build
0:26 AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
This beat, with the surrounding comedic timing is absolutely genius.
This is great stufff. I have to admit with a certain amount of shame. I know when I get my first roll of it, it’s coming, that I’ll slap it on, set the temps and go….
I think you should not increase bed temperature at first layer. Heat expansion can warp bed a little bit and peel the print off when its cooling to normal bed printing temperature.
At least with pei this method works. At least on the prints ive tested it with.
@@CanuckCreator This effect is most noticeable on a thiner beds for ex. Ender 3
That definitely happened to me with a glass bed. Probably not an issue with PEI though.
is polymaker asa ok?
Most good quality brand ASA/ABS is fine
👍
Anyone like Polymaker ABS?
Show the print with the cheap ABS
.
Same as the other printers....other than
warped
Brittle
Blobby (its 3 years old and not quite dry anymore)
Ill probably dry it out and use it for part 4
Once you have all that set up you're going to want to flip switches on and off at least three times the quiet the voices in your head.
Do a flow test....rest of the f*** owl.
geeetech is the wirst ans i eher had