ABS For Dummies PART 1- PREP FOR SUCCESS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2020
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Nero: 9:22 "By no means is this a permanent setup"
Me: [Looks at the cardboard enclosure built from the printer's own box that I've been using for 2 years]
There is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution 😅
If it aint broke....
I use an Ender 3 with an all metal E3D V6, PEI bedsheet and a trash bag to print the parts for my Voron 0. No part cooling fan, 260C nozzle and 110C bed. Electronics are seperate.
The tip to get reliable filaments is super important!
I have some garbage ABS Plus which manages to warp in a heated build chamber (45deg chamber temp) using a cooler first layer, large brim and ABS slurry.
This is awesome. Thanks Ubernero! Fundamentals are so important.
Thanks. -- really looking forward to the series. 👍😎👍
I appreciate you addressing concerns for abs fumes. I experience headaches and eye irritation when exposed to long prints.
I have an enclosure with a activated carbon filter that was only 20 bucks and I only print abs and my mom that is sensitive to smells can't even smell it
Same, even with PLA. Especially true with PETG. I have not tried any other ones, but I'm sure I'd react much worse.
Great information thank you. I already use esun Filament but as yet I have not tried their Abs so I am looking forward to using this
If you're looking for a super cheap, decent ABS filament, JAYO seems to be a good option, just tried it for the first time today. Almost zero smell, good prints, so either I just caught COVID and am losing my sense of smell or it's made from good quality plastic.
Thanks bro for the advice, definately helping me as a new 3d printing user. keep it up please
Good job Nero!!
Great video as always👍
Thanks for sharing😀🎆
Happy new years👍🎆
A good enclosure for a printer a grow tent is a good option it holds heat and is set up for ventilation already throw a carbon filter in it can help with any fumes
This will help me alot, thanks for another great video!
Very good video. I plan on building a Switchwire this year if all goes well. In what capacity are you involved in injection molding?
I would buy ASA over ABS. It has a very similar chemical composition, the same temperature resistance as ABS, but warps way less. I've been printing ASA on an open printer for months without any problems, on a 100° textured PEI sheet and 245° nozzle.
Great video!
Thank you so much for making this video! I learned a lot!
Excellent info! I recently started printing more with ABS and it's starting to grow on me. Keep it up!
you can read the grow on you at least 2 ways :D
May I ask printing with abs for what?
cool video. thanks for your efforts. e-sun is one I have not used.... will give it a go... thanks
"if you French fry when you should pizza, you're gonna have a bad time."
🤣
For anyone struggling with ABS, the thing that finally worked for me was getting the bed to 110°, getting a spring steel sheet with PEI, and squishing the first layer just a little bit (baby step down by .1mm).
"You will need an all metal hot end"
You 100% don't need an all metal hotend, depending on the quality, it's even detrimental, getting all gunked up, the white PTFE tube won't release gases before 250c, and most ABS' print great at 230c, capricorn tubing won't release gases before 280c according to the manufacturer.
I will buy me a formbot kit soon for the 2.4 and build my own Voron, building a carbinet in the moment for the printed parts. im fucking excited and hope i will get a working mashine...
What printers do you recommend for consistent ABS printing? Preferably under $1k
How does esun abs plus compare to asa when it comes to warping and smell?
I love the smell of ABS it's very floral. having worked in a few injection molding factories it's not as strong from 3d printers compared to when it's being pumped out of a huge extruder the size of your car.
Thank you! I'll be definitely printing the parts for my to be voron!
What do I lose by printing voron parts in eSun's ABS+ instead of a true ABS like KVP's?
Slightly lower temp resistance, and ABS+ isnt QUITE as stiff as pure ABS but still perfectly usable (all the black abs in all my machines is esun abs+)
trianglelabs also have a bimetallic heatbreak for the ender 3 FWIW
been watching your klipper contnent, would you be able to do a video on macros?
I printed my parts on my Ender 3 Pro upgraded with capricorn tube and spring steel plate covered with PEI allowing me to raise the bed temp to 110C. Other than that I stuck the printer in a small room and cranked the heater up to 28-30C and left the printer with a webcam pointed at it. There are some cheap 4-5 USD all metal swap-in hot-ends that could have worked in place of the capricorn tube. The print was done with both supports, brim and draft shield. The only part that didn't turn out well was the exhaust filter housing, so I printed that in PETG instead. Basically I didn't want to spend any more than absolutely necessary on my old printer, as it is NEVER going to be printing ABS again. That's what my Voron 2.4 is for :)
Are HEPA filters and big PC vents able to catch VOC's? In the industry the often have big big Ventilation machines and filters even built into the building. Want to use it also for soldering.
From what I've read HEPA won't help with VOC's, only venting works. Also leaving part in enclosure for few hours after the print works as particles should drop down - this is a reddit advice so take it with a grain of salt. I know this is not very scientific, but my air quality meter on home air filtering machine never went up when I was printing ASA in open (as a test, in small room). It does however goes up immediately when I'm frying something or even open the window. So my pleb guess is you won't drop dead from printing, not faster than from heavy cooking at least. Also I was having weak headaches when I had teflon lined heatbreak, but I'm feeling fine when using titanium one. However the air quality meter didn't pick up anything when I was using teflon liner too, so... ;-) .
Do you have the link of that printer?
8:55 looks like you are stringing some dry mouth PETG .... but that's a nice trick to track how far people get into your videos LOL.
Sorry for pointing that... it's a great video nevertheless.
After a few failures and pn the edge of giving up on ABS using my ENDER 3 S1 , I just decided to completely seal my closet ( where my printer is ) as well as turning off the fan ( which I wasn't doing before) and BAAMMMM, I get flawless ABS prints now, no strings ,no warpings no delamination , excelent resolution. However as it prints more slowly, it's a pain to wait for even the simplest prints .
I wouldn't recommend the ikea bedstand DIY enclosures to anyone. I've had one of those catch fire, the adhesive used to make the reconstructed wood and the coating on them melts and burns.
Looking forward to the next video! I'll send some more Pokemon money your way too ;)
can you do one for PETG? What do you think of a charcoal air purifier that claims to remove VOCs?
I havent printed PETG in years lol
what do you think of zillagrip ? printing ABS on cold bed
The issue with a cold bed is the low ambient temps lead to a weak abs part. You do want heat when printing abs for stronger parts.
Just a small opinion here. I was printing a lot with Devil's design ABS+ on my sidewinder x1( volcano nozzle with an all metal heatbreak) and I got the best results at 225-230C. At first it seemed really weird but after countless printing jobs and a few temp towers I think saying that 240 is a must for abs is kinda wrong. Better to waste a little filament and print a temp tower just to be sure.
P.S: Might also be because of the volcano nozzle or maybe due to temp mismatch but it seems a bit unlikely tbh
It really depends on the blend of abs your using but temp was 240ish is the norm for abs.
But yes, temp towers is something you should always do, need to remember to with some printers and thermistor choice/configuration temp readouts may be off as well.
Pure ABS (not ABS+) will have a higher melting temperature than other blends, as Nero said. Usually ABS+ is mixed with a lower temperature plastic, which gives you the lower temps you are experiencing. Something like KVP ABS (my main filament) prints best at 245/240.
I have to ask, have you approached eSun for a cut of sales? I reckon these videos must have been responsible for tons (literally) of sales. In the UK group it's our go to now.
The only thing you did not address is WHY you would want to print ABS. Otherwise magnificent content!
Higher melting point
More flexible than pla (which is why some applications are actually better in pla, more rigid)
ASA is I believe the best at long term sun exposure and prints the same ish as ABS
something something pla will slowly morph / sad under long term pressure, abs does not
Window in cardboard. 9:57 "Or you can go as simple as putting a webcam in there with a light."
Yeah, I think the window in cardboard is a little more simple than webcams and lighting. LOL.
Can someone provide a link for Chimera Heatbreak pls? And isnt it right, that Capricorn Tube is able to print up to 250 Degrees Celcius?
Should be a few on ali/amazon, also apparently theres bi-metallic ones (for the mk8 hotend itself) from triangle labs now as well if you want to get fancy
The all metal hotend is mandatory even for Enders with Capricorn tubing?
Its recommend due to the temperature teflon starts to break down at is close the most abs printing temps
Capricorn claims their PTFE tubing is safe up to a little over 250C. I don't know for sure how true that is, but back when I was using a CR-10 S4 I ran a lot of ABS through it with a capricorn tube and it never seemed to be a problem
@@tehbieber I have been printing PETG @240°C no problem so far but never went over that
@@tehbieber If you feel safe going that route thats fine, the all metal comment was mostly for those using stock and off the shelf setups. I do know some abs`s that like 250-255 temps so that's still pushing the limits of cap tubing.
So for the guide, just played it safe and recommended all metal
I've been printing ABS on my Ender with Capricorn tubing and haven't noticed any degradation of the tubing after 100+ hours at 250°C. (Printing the parts for my Voron build)
Amazing starter video... Looking forward to start a 3d printing farm business.
as long as the printer itself is not a fire hazard the cardboard box itself should not be one, you do not see amazon boxes suddenly combust at 40 degrees C in the summer😀
My printer is in my bedroom. Man I'm dead
How timely. I just posted in general about my abs warping.
Does this apply to as a as well
Yes
WARNING: Don't enclose a printer with PETG printed parts (like a Prusa). I wrecked my i3 mk3 today after just a couple hours of trying to print ABS.
Do they melt or what?
@@user-yk1cw8im4h They soften and deform. I had to find someone to reprint the main toolhead piece (in ABS). Unfortunately it wasn't designed to be printed in ABS in terms of overhangs and stuff, so they suffered several failed prints.
I print all that and much more on my k1 max with no issues
Just a quick look online, I estimate about 22 PPM/hr for ABS.
So roughly 4 hours is the daily exposure limit, and im assuming that measurement is right next to printer so dispersing it in a room probably drops it by a bit as well. So pretty much unless your face first in the printer for hours at a time, it really shouldn't be an issue.
Do you have a source for the data?
@@CanuckCreator this measurement was taken from a 28 m^3 room from an open printer. The source I found was this www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0360132319304196
I may have botched the calculations, but it seemed reasonable so I didn’t question it too much.
@@CanuckCreator More Data
onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jiec.12569
Turns out Its not the smell of styrene you should be worried about, its
the nanoparticles. ABS seems to make much more then PLA but both have
it.
"The amounts of volatile organic and other gaseous compounds were only traceable and are not expected to pose health risks. Our study suggests that measures preventing human exposure to high nanoparticle concentrations should be adopted when using low‐end 3D printers."
I have a couple of questions about ABS? I have heard ABS+ prints better than standard ABS. Is that true? Also does ASA print better than ABS?
Concerning the fumes once the print is complete, is it better to let the print sit inside the enclosure for a while or can you open the enclosure right away?
If I start getting overly dizzy 🥴 and nauseous, the fumes are too thick
I like and watch your videos a lot, but ... I have an Ender 3 stock (with a few mods) and prints the Esun ABS without any problems. The most recent mod is probably the housing and PEI bed. im using it now to print my VORON parts and they are coming great. (100/245)
The main issue you'll find when printing without an enclosure, is that layer adhesion suffers pretty heavily. For structural parts, this becomes an issue very quickly.
@@Jared01 i do have enclousure , i just find ender 3 Stock hot-end ok to print ABS and TPU ... As longe as we do not talk really commercial mattrrials that printer is OK.
@@reedzik the issue with the stock hotend is more with the breakdown of the PTFE at those temperatures, it can cause some pretty scary fumes. Ever heard not to put a nonstick pan in the oven? Same reason.
@@Jared01 true , but still for non commercial printing but hobby .. its OK . But will build 2.4 to avoid that banana radiation :)
@@reedzik His point is that it is NOT okay. PTFE fumes are allegedly very dangerous.
Arrgh, pet hate trying to navigate hotends and nozzles and almost everyone is falling into this trap:
"X-plated" -> item is made of unspecified material and plated with X, eg chrome plated (bumpers), nickel plated (firearms, guitar pickup covers), tin plate (centures of corrosion resitant steel, particualrly for culinary use particualrly biscuit tin, tin can)
"plated Y" -> item is made of Y and plated with unspecified material
"plate Z" -> item is a flat sheet of Z, particularly glass manufacture.
But what we're seeing in the FFF arena is x-plated in both uses. If you can be really specific and use X-plated-Y (so nickel-plated copper) or venture into a marketing speak "copper with a high performance low adhesion coating" if you need to, lest somone seek out entirely the wrong material. Importantly for a hotend the core material is important and the surface finish mostly makes it look nice, for a nozzle it's a bit more complicated, but an external copper plating i suspect would be somewhere between pointless and disasttrous, but might be used as an intermediate plating layer, where it's not particually relevant beyond providing better surface plating adhesion and smoothness in some circumstances.
Damnit now I can't buy bananas...
I followed all these directions, and still don't have abs.
Oh wait...A.B.S. oops.
LOL
In that case you should be warned that the sequel is about P.E.T.G., not Pecs. Although, lifting a voron v2.4 and moving it around would count as a workout... (Bodybuilders get Abs, printers get ABS+?)
I don't think it is really necessary for a all metal hotend. Preferable perhaps, not necessary if you replace the ptft tube with capricorn tubing that is supposed to be good to around 300 degrees C.
I do have a all metal hotend though I kind of regret installing it as every time I try to print PLA it clogs.
I printed abs with my ender 3 no problem
While it "can" be done on a stock setup, with the temperatures the hotend is running at, it can be at or close to breaking down the PTFE liner of the hotend, so its best to play it safe.
i know this is old, but im just gona mention that if you say copper plated, that means its a metal plated with a thin layer of copper, the nozzles we use are plated copper, that means its a copper nozzle plated with another metal lol, the order you say it has a very specific meaning and you said copper plated then show a pic of a plated copper nozzle
Sorry, but you're gonna have to do better when it comes to informing about the potential harzards of ABS. Whataboutisms and "it is even worse in other industries" doesn't cut it.
I did find some documentation since this video. One source states a single printer puts out roughly mid 20s ppm of styrene vocs per hour of printing. Well below the 100ppm per hour recommeneded per 8 hour window that osha advises
@@CanuckCreator All possible. But you have to agree that "your banana could kill you too" is not exactly information ;)
@@michaeldorsam2908 just making the point stating " yes it has bad things in it" is pointless without attaching a value or exposure limit to it.