INPUT SHAPER CRASH COURSE - Print FASTER and BETTER!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.พ. 2021
- I tried to condense as much information and cover a input shaper install in a manageable sized video. The results of this method should give good results on most printers, and once setup you have a good benchmark before exploring more advanced input shaper tuning methods.
HELPFUL LINKS, READ THESE
www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_C...
www.klipper3d.org/RPi_microco...
This is the type of adxl345 i used
www.amazon.ca/Robojax-ADXL345...
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Even 2 years later, this is a great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.
I'm loving the Klipper series! Thanks for the work you put in on this!
This may in fact be the single greatest video that has ever been posted on TH-cam. I was dreading setting up my Pi as a secondary MCU, but I just followed this video (as well as the Klipper docs) and it was actually quite easy, and now my prints look so much better! Thanks, Nero.
This is the definitive Input Shaper vid to watch. It covers all the bases. Thank you so much!
Great! I've been shopping for servo motors recently for a CNC and they have pretty advanced features to notch out resonance. It's great to see this kind if thing come to 3D printing and without the cost of servos!
Tip for all: don't shutdown your printer while relocation the accelerometer. Those files are saved in the tmp folder and the files will clear.
This must be added to the video tutorial ASAP!
You mean don't shutdown your pi...
Fuuuuu. I just did all this crap, shut down my pi and went to my laptop to finish. Couldn't find the CSV files and then read this comment. So frustrated!
The printer MCU can be safely shut down, just don't shut down the host OS.
How do you save it then
Great explanation! I’ve been looking at input shaper on the klipper site and your video cleared up a lot. My sensor comes tomorrow so I’ll be giving it a go this weekend. Thanks.
Tremendous thank you and two thumbs up for this crash course. The improvements in printer performance even for a novice Klipper user is remarkable. With input shaping my printer operates smoother, which is especially noticeable when printing faster or using gyroid infill.
This was a great video. I got it to work on the second pass attempt. A lot of steps to get the software all setup, worked very well and got some good numbers. Thanks for doing this
OMG, this was an excellent tutorial! The set-by-step instructions were very helpful.
Definitely want to see me more content like this
nice and clear delivery. thank you for this "lesson" on input shaper
such an underrated channel, great guide.
Love your videos! Thanks for a great totutial. Will be doing that as soon as my printer is back up and running
you're my reference for Klipper content! you rock!!
Very good! I think I I’ll be able to give it a try this weekend. Thanks nero!!!!!
Great video, good information, clear explanation, thanks, and keep up the good work, I would definitely want to see a more detailed introduction to input shaper. By the way, you just earned a subscriber
Love your videos! You explain everything in debt without making it boring and too long!
I think you mean in depth
A tip. For soldering header pins flush to the board, put the board on a flat surface. Insert the pins, long pin down (ie opposite way to what you would expect), into the board then solder from the top side. The black plastic bit keeps the pins aligned but is spaced off the board so you can solder under it. Once soldered you can remove the black plastic bit (it will probably just slide off with a bit of wiggling) and you have completely flush (on the bottom) soldered pin header. Alternatively, if you want to keep the black bit then just push it down until it sits on the solder joints :)
Thanks for the info Nero thanks for the tip on moving the power connections to simplify the harness to 4x2 for the Pi hookup. Very clever and useful.
Great video man, keep up your informative videos!! I needed this one!
Another Great video. Looking forward to more vids about Input Shaper and its features. A multipart series :)
thanks for your video. i added now the input shaper in my voron 2.4 with Afterburner. Impressive Klipper funtionality. Its an must for each 3D enthusiast. Br from south germany!
VERY well done video! Thank you for explaining this in the manner that you did!!
This video was fantastic. I've been toying with the idea of buying an accelerometer for input shaper for months now, and this has tipped me over the edge. Brilliant coverage, not too short, not too long, not patronising, and not a single mention of raid shadow legends. Thank you.
Dangit. Knew i forgot something
@@CanuckCreator rekt as the kids say
Thank you for this guide, even if it is 2 years old, it helped me in installing and measuring my resonances in my printer!
I had no idea this even existed, great vid
There are so many out there (myself included) that will benefit from this kind of instruction regarding klipper.
Great video :)
Some video on determining max acceleration and speed of the printer would be great.
And also, I'll get an accelerometer now :)
yay awesome video keep them coming!!, I want to see more!!
Great video (as always!) I'd love to see a more in-depth video.
Would love to see more details when you have time to share. Thanks for this tutorial 👍👍
I'm behind on this by a few months, but I'm very interested in Input Shaper and related topics to improve printer output.
The reality is no frame design is 100% rigid so using available tools to measure the vibration modes of the frame and stay away from them makes a ton of sense.
Klipper is great but the documentation is hit.
This absolutely nailed it, thank you!
Alot of the documentation has been updated. See github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Config_Reference.md for example
One of the best content about adxl345 integration with Klipper...i would definately want to watch/learn more... one request, as we all know Voron switchwire is a different segment, it would be great if we can get similiar content/tests/results with your ender3 v2 which is an entry level and very common (cost effective) printer. I really wonder how the quality will be improved in e3v2 with such a sophisticated low cost modding...thanks again for your all effort and contribution the makers community...
This makes a good argument for core xy because you're getting most of your ringing from the x and y axis, but the y axis mass changes throughout the print
Been watching your videos specifically to get Klipper running on my v2 and using an accelerometer for input shaping. Your sharing of information has been the clearest by far, very much appreciated. I just have one suggestion: keep using the lapel mic instead of the stand mic. Your voice comes across much better and is more consistent as you turn back and forth from the printers.
I just finished watching the livestream on this topic, now in the new room :D
Thank you NERO 3D!
Input shaper are easy, because i watched your video 😅. My Prusa MK3S Bear now works perfectly 👌.
please do the videos you suggested at the end, those sound super interesting!
Thanks for the link! I'm sure they'll be sold out before lunch :)
Great Job! Thank you very much for this awesome video! Keep it up man :)
Awesome content, thanks! Would love a follow-up with fine tuning.
THank you for this, I f inally decided to use this videeo, and finally am doing Fine tuning of my I nput shaper with this, rather then just manual tuning, and..I actually had guessed pretty close it looks like on my original input shaping attempts, But this is helping so much, I'm going to be t esting w ith my own from the graph, and also what the "Auto INput shaping" suggests, just to compare results.
I'd like an entire video about acceleration please
this
@@mensb1936 This this
Hey, great content, I just swapped to Klipper 2 days ago, and i love it. I used some of your videos for config so thank you. I get almost the same results as you on my rails ender 3, with more on X than Y on the test print.
Yup, different axis`s will have different results usually, you can run different input shapers for each axis if needed, config would look somehting like
[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: xxx
shaper_type_x: mzv
shaper_freq_y: xxx
shaper_type_y: ei
@@CanuckCreator thank you. I am running ei for X mzv for Y. Another thing is do you disable z hop while doing prints?
@@deenman60 depends on the print..i always run z hop out of habit but it may not always be needed
Really nice and informative. Thanks👍
Nice and concise!
Kinda new to all this, thanks for the vid :D
This is great, please talk about max acceleration as well! Currently running at 3k because that’s where my gap starts opening up on the ringing tower!
I've subscribed to your channel since your making Klipper tutorials to improve print quality
This was interesting, would be interested to see more info on how this actually works.
Great video as always
Love your dive into the deep end, with this experience it seams as a walk in the park!
Would love more in depth videos of Klipper adjustments
That for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀
Awesome tutorial! I had to look up the chip to see where to get it. The funny part is, the very first link was for the dev of the chip. I actually work in the IT dept. for Analog Devices. I guess I don't have to go far to get support for the chip if I need any lol.
Such a cool tool!
Thanks a lot! You are the best!
Awesome video!
I just did this 2 days ago and it was really easy to use a command strip cut in half for each location on my bed slinger cr-10s pro v2!
Oh and I used the test print tower to find my max acceleration of 2500 mm/s^2
Excelente Video, Saludos desde Perú.
Great content!
Thank you. Most informative. I wonder how this would work on a Delta.
thank you for this video, kind of hard to find the info you need on a 3hours plus video
Awesome video! I would like to know how to discover the highest speed that you can print using klipper. I have a Anycubic Mega S with klipper and you are encouraging me to tune it to become a beast kkkk
Your content is excellent, congratulations and thank you very much.
Thanks nero
Yes, we want to see more input shaping videos. Please do it on your new Trident! Is there a way to keep the ADXL permanently on the printer? It seems like StealthBurner should incorporate it.
this was a great into to, but I would love to see a deep dive into the input shaper
Awesome video, thank you!
Took me a few minutes to realize but, make sure you use lowercase for the "mzv" shaper type
Thank you very much for this!!. My steppers are "hot"? after running the tests. Too hot to touch with my fingers. Is this normal? (Creator Pro original stepper have always run a little on the warm side)
How did you change which pins talk to the adxl sensor from the pi? Most of the gpio pins on my pi are blocked by the display that directly connects to the gpio pins on the pi
Awesome!
Great video thanks!
Now with Input Shaper if I put wings on the extruder my printer will fly away! I just finished putting together my Switchwire and with Input Shaper I'm actually getting less ringing and better overall looking prints at higher speeds! Seems strange but I like it. 200mm/s is the highest I'm comfortable with now with max_accel @ 3000. If you see a flying 3d printer it's probably got Input Shaper! Thanks Nero!
Great video. Im a peasant printing at 45mm/s. Time to get me some Klippy~
Consultation. When putting linear guides, the nozzle is advanced in the bed, how are these values corrected in klipper?
In fact belts has the same phisics as a guitar's strings. When the head is in center - it has one resonance frequence and another one when the head moves to a side. Input shaping have to measure resonance in different points and approximate different frequencies depending on x / y position for better results
Please more about Klipper and Input Shaper! :)
Master!
would love to see a Deep Dive video!
Thank you!
First of all thank you so much for an epic video this has really helped me get through Klipper's docs. Secondly, so when you decide where to set the shaper Hz... in the terminal after you type in the calibration sand it is setting the png file. it tells you on the terminal what the best shaper type and Hz range is for each axis...
so for instance when I had typed in the code to read each tmp file, after it had compiled it in to a png it told me "recommended shaper ei at 90hz and y axis @ mvz 45Hz, thought this would be an easier and quicker way to do it instead of logging into winscp and extracting the png files
I would definitely like to know more about input shaper. Just started running octoprint ony ender 3 and just got done sourcing the parts for my voron 2.4 yesterday.
Thank you
You know he's serious when he wears an apron for 3d printing. lol. Thanks Nero for the great videos.
More in depth video on input shaper plz!!!
A headsup for people using the Adafruit version (the blue one in the picture): 3.3v and gnd are switched! Also the hole is nog M3 compatible.
Pretty sure I just destroyed mine by switching the 3.3v and GND. For some reason only the Z-axis still reports values.
Thank you for this great video. After I have measured the resonanz of my printer, I have a strange diagram and did not know if there was an problem. The y diagram logs great, but the x diagram show two high peaks at 44 Hz and 80 Hz. Which one is the correct peak to use for the resonanz compensation?
Thanks! Great video and tutorial. I have a sovol sv04 with 2 extruder. I can test only main extruder?
hey sooo, to connect my accelerometer to the bed of my printer i just designed and printed a shape with a screw hole in it, printed it and simply left it attached to the bed, this held fine and i believe is probably the best solution to not having a screw available on the bed
Can I use niput shaper on every board (3d printer controller) with a separate Raspberry pi connected to it, or does the board need to be a "controller and raspberry pi on one PCB" type?
If the first, then I can upgrade my old Marlin printer with Octopi to Klipper with Mainsail using input shaper..
Great video! Can other types of acceleration modules be used? I have an MPU6050 handy in my drawer. Thanks.
I simply designed my mount to only mate to the flat part of the adxl345, and leave the header pins out of the equation altogether. There's enough width to get a secure mount without including the header area. Those sensors are so cheap I'm leaving them permanently mounted on the toolheads. At someone else's suggestion on one of your videos, I designed a mount to print on the bed and screw the sensor into it without detaching the print from the bed. I can't really get at the screws on my printbed since they are under an expensive magnetic sheet from wham bam. I was thinking of leaving the bed heat on to ensure the print sticks while the motion is hitting harmonics. Do you think the heat will effect the readings from the adxl345?
Fab video thanks Nero - but I do wonder after all this we input two numbers into our config - is it much different to the numbers I entered manually using my calipers on the ghosting?
I found my results from non--accelerometer measuring to be rather fantastic, actually.
I think it would be better to include the spring steel build plate when testing the Y axis. If the mass changes the harmonics will change.
This is correct, I had it on during the actual tuning but had it off when i went back to record the B-roll footage, should have made a note there.
Thanks for pointing this out!!
Would like to see input shaper setup on the Ender 3
Thank you for this tutorial. Do I need to make_config once more and change to "old settings" ?
Nero fantastic tutorial. I have the issue of no internet connection connected to printer. How do I instal numpy etc
It's important to note that input shaping with the described wiring is only possible on a printer with a Raspberry Pi host computer or a Bigtreetech Pi4B carrier equipped with a Raspberry CM4 module. The Bigtreetech CB1 module is missing one of the physical connections required for input shaping. The same goes also for the new stand-alone BTT-Pi board BTW. This is by far the biggest drawback of using H616 processor based BTT host computers instead of genuine RPi's.
Hi Nero, I'm surprised no one has said anything but you are actually connecting the accelerometer to a 3.3v pin and not a 5v like you say in the video. other then that great video! thank you!
This is what I was woundering about. Does the 3.3v still work for the ADXL 3453?
would be nice if you could set acceleration for x and y separately , is there any way to stabilize bed on rollers more or only put it on rails?