Fuuuuu. I just did all this crap, shut down my pi and went to my laptop to finish. Couldn't find the CSV files and then read this comment. So frustrated!
This may in fact be the single greatest video that has ever been posted on TH-cam. I was dreading setting up my Pi as a secondary MCU, but I just followed this video (as well as the Klipper docs) and it was actually quite easy, and now my prints look so much better! Thanks, Nero.
This video was fantastic. I've been toying with the idea of buying an accelerometer for input shaper for months now, and this has tipped me over the edge. Brilliant coverage, not too short, not too long, not patronising, and not a single mention of raid shadow legends. Thank you.
A tip. For soldering header pins flush to the board, put the board on a flat surface. Insert the pins, long pin down (ie opposite way to what you would expect), into the board then solder from the top side. The black plastic bit keeps the pins aligned but is spaced off the board so you can solder under it. Once soldered you can remove the black plastic bit (it will probably just slide off with a bit of wiggling) and you have completely flush (on the bottom) soldered pin header. Alternatively, if you want to keep the black bit then just push it down until it sits on the solder joints :)
One of the best content about adxl345 integration with Klipper...i would definately want to watch/learn more... one request, as we all know Voron switchwire is a different segment, it would be great if we can get similiar content/tests/results with your ender3 v2 which is an entry level and very common (cost effective) printer. I really wonder how the quality will be improved in e3v2 with such a sophisticated low cost modding...thanks again for your all effort and contribution the makers community...
I'm behind on this by a few months, but I'm very interested in Input Shaper and related topics to improve printer output. The reality is no frame design is 100% rigid so using available tools to measure the vibration modes of the frame and stay away from them makes a ton of sense.
thanks for your video. i added now the input shaper in my voron 2.4 with Afterburner. Impressive Klipper funtionality. Its an must for each 3D enthusiast. Br from south germany!
Now with Input Shaper if I put wings on the extruder my printer will fly away! I just finished putting together my Switchwire and with Input Shaper I'm actually getting less ringing and better overall looking prints at higher speeds! Seems strange but I like it. 200mm/s is the highest I'm comfortable with now with max_accel @ 3000. If you see a flying 3d printer it's probably got Input Shaper! Thanks Nero!
This makes a good argument for core xy because you're getting most of your ringing from the x and y axis, but the y axis mass changes throughout the print
Tremendous thank you and two thumbs up for this crash course. The improvements in printer performance even for a novice Klipper user is remarkable. With input shaping my printer operates smoother, which is especially noticeable when printing faster or using gyroid infill.
Great explanation! I’ve been looking at input shaper on the klipper site and your video cleared up a lot. My sensor comes tomorrow so I’ll be giving it a go this weekend. Thanks.
Great! I've been shopping for servo motors recently for a CNC and they have pretty advanced features to notch out resonance. It's great to see this kind if thing come to 3D printing and without the cost of servos!
Hey Nero 3d ! Thanks for your new video today. I just happened to notice here that you have to carefully count along the pin rows of the rpi header. To make sure you are connecting the cable up to the right row position correctly on the rpi. As to avoid mis-wiring it. However sometimes it can be hard to see in dim light etc. and then make an honest mistake, hook it up wrong and fry something! So why not 3d print a small plastic locator adapter that fits over the smaller dupont 2*4 pin header plug, and then also uniquely maps more safely onto the larger rpi 40 pin header footprint. On the rpi. This way the locating adaptor can always make it impossible for the accelerometer to get plugged in incorrectly. I understand that for most regular people that is probably overkill. And not really necessary because most of us are only doing this task 1-2x times (ever). However you yourself happen to have so many more different 3d printers over there. And keep reusing the same accelerometer each time. So it just might be worth it for somebody like you. Or otherwise for a beginner person who is very scared of messing about with the electronics side of things. I hope the suggestion was helpful and worth reading.
@@johnandrews9433 definitely not “easier” the adapter would be ten-twenty minutes in cad and maybe an hour for both prints and you get absolutely mindless install every time. The savings will have added up after just a few uses of the system and would immediately pay for itself if you fry something for not using it. The guy is clearly eloquent enough to count but stated realistically that people can make mistakes
@@JeronimoStilton14 what, I’m not talking about an adapter. I’m talking about paying attention to what you’re soldering lmao. Work on your reading comprehension
@@johnandrews9433 Jeeeeesus dude you want to talk about lack of reading comprehension. You were telling someone that its easier to count than make an adapter.There is also no soldering involved on the connector side in question so you've honestly degraded your own premise.
Hey, great content, I just swapped to Klipper 2 days ago, and i love it. I used some of your videos for config so thank you. I get almost the same results as you on my rails ender 3, with more on X than Y on the test print.
Yup, different axis`s will have different results usually, you can run different input shapers for each axis if needed, config would look somehting like [input_shaper] shaper_freq_x: xxx shaper_type_x: mzv shaper_freq_y: xxx shaper_type_y: ei
THank you for this, I f inally decided to use this videeo, and finally am doing Fine tuning of my I nput shaper with this, rather then just manual tuning, and..I actually had guessed pretty close it looks like on my original input shaping attempts, But this is helping so much, I'm going to be t esting w ith my own from the graph, and also what the "Auto INput shaping" suggests, just to compare results.
A note about 'do not touch anything', when using a removable accelerometer, using a heavy cable setup like you did that touches parts of the printer and has the cables that connect to the accelerometer tensioned, you are both dampening the accelerometer and already changing the conditions of the printer and its resonance. Take care in minimizing the effect a detachable accelerometer has on the system. Preferably, use light cabling with sufficient slack from the accelerometer to a decoupling perimeter point and from there use your heavier cable to reach the Pi. For permanently attached accelerometers it doesn't matter that much, but making the installation, including cabling, as light as possible is always best practice for a moving axis on a 3D printer.
Also note, you can use the graphic output of the test routine with an accelerometer as a visualization and benchmark for fortifying your 3D printer, how it sits on your bench and fortifying your workbench. I didn't save any shaper settings until I did a few things to make the printer, mounting of the printer and workbench more rigid. oscillation And that will make it so that the printer firmware and parts have to do less work removing the oscillation, giving you even more speed and less wear on your parts. After I did what I could to remove as much resonance that way, I redid the calibration for use in Klipper itself and the amplitudes of the resonances were barely a 10th of what they were before and the frequency had shifted.
Hi Nero, I'm surprised no one has said anything but you are actually connecting the accelerometer to a 3.3v pin and not a 5v like you say in the video. other then that great video! thank you!
Yes, we want to see more input shaping videos. Please do it on your new Trident! Is there a way to keep the ADXL permanently on the printer? It seems like StealthBurner should incorporate it.
In fact belts has the same phisics as a guitar's strings. When the head is in center - it has one resonance frequence and another one when the head moves to a side. Input shaping have to measure resonance in different points and approximate different frequencies depending on x / y position for better results
Hmm small nitpick but if you’re already using numPy and a matlab script it should be able to automatically do peak data. A little bit of backend work and you should be able to tell it which axis you ultimately want and have it just automatically set the setting for you. That’s more on whoever wrote these scripts but just something to think about.
Been watching your videos specifically to get Klipper running on my v2 and using an accelerometer for input shaping. Your sharing of information has been the clearest by far, very much appreciated. I just have one suggestion: keep using the lapel mic instead of the stand mic. Your voice comes across much better and is more consistent as you turn back and forth from the printers.
Great video, good information, clear explanation, thanks, and keep up the good work, I would definitely want to see a more detailed introduction to input shaper. By the way, you just earned a subscriber
Awesome tutorial! I had to look up the chip to see where to get it. The funny part is, the very first link was for the dev of the chip. I actually work in the IT dept. for Analog Devices. I guess I don't have to go far to get support for the chip if I need any lol.
This was a great video. I got it to work on the second pass attempt. A lot of steps to get the software all setup, worked very well and got some good numbers. Thanks for doing this
Just a little note, you are connecting to the 3.3v pin on the Pi not 5v. It looks like most of these chips are fine from 3.3-5v but just keep that in mind if you are having issues that might be related to the chip not getting enough voltage.
I was looking for that info. My accelerometer has a pin labeled VCC+5v and another one just labeled +3.3v, I guess that should be ok if I just hook the +3.3v to the pin 17 on the gpio, right?
First of all thank you so much for an epic video this has really helped me get through Klipper's docs. Secondly, so when you decide where to set the shaper Hz... in the terminal after you type in the calibration sand it is setting the png file. it tells you on the terminal what the best shaper type and Hz range is for each axis... so for instance when I had typed in the code to read each tmp file, after it had compiled it in to a png it told me "recommended shaper ei at 90hz and y axis @ mvz 45Hz, thought this would be an easier and quicker way to do it instead of logging into winscp and extracting the png files
Awesome video! I would like to know how to discover the highest speed that you can print using klipper. I have a Anycubic Mega S with klipper and you are encouraging me to tune it to become a beast kkkk Your content is excellent, congratulations and thank you very much.
I love your content, you've taught me a lot about 3dp tuning. However, I find your explanations for working with raspberry pi and Linux through ssh leave out a LOT of assumed knowledge and are difficult to follow. Would be nice to have an explanation of WHY you perform each command rather than just a pre-prescribed set of commands to enter.
hey sooo, to connect my accelerometer to the bed of my printer i just designed and printed a shape with a screw hole in it, printed it and simply left it attached to the bed, this held fine and i believe is probably the best solution to not having a screw available on the bed
Great video as always Love your dive into the deep end, with this experience it seams as a walk in the park! Would love more in depth videos of Klipper adjustments That for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀
It's important to note that input shaping with the described wiring is only possible on a printer with a Raspberry Pi host computer or a Bigtreetech Pi4B carrier equipped with a Raspberry CM4 module. The Bigtreetech CB1 module is missing one of the physical connections required for input shaping. The same goes also for the new stand-alone BTT-Pi board BTW. This is by far the biggest drawback of using H616 processor based BTT host computers instead of genuine RPi's.
I would definitely like to know more about input shaper. Just started running octoprint ony ender 3 and just got done sourcing the parts for my voron 2.4 yesterday.
A headsup for people using the Adafruit version (the blue one in the picture): 3.3v and gnd are switched! Also the hole is nog M3 compatible. Pretty sure I just destroyed mine by switching the 3.3v and GND. For some reason only the Z-axis still reports values.
Hey guy's i have installed input shaper on my printer but i keep getting this error in fluidd !! No adxl345 measurements found. I followed your instructions to the T.
Shouldn't the ACCELEROMETER_QUERY Value for Z be around 9800?? I found that when I swapped my low cost ADXL 345 for an ada-fruit sensor I then had a Z acceleration value more in line with gravity and also much lower noise values.... I'm a bit worried you're measured acceleration values are off and you could be compensating for wrong resonance frequencies 🤷♂️ What does your MEASURE_AXES_NOISE values state? Is it in line with the recommended < 100 values?
Does the spool mounted to the frame change the resonant frequency? For example, you ran the test with one spool, does adding a second change it? And would a new 1 k spool be different than one close to empty?
Fab video thanks Nero - but I do wonder after all this we input two numbers into our config - is it much different to the numbers I entered manually using my calipers on the ghosting?
Quick correction: the standard python commands for numpy and matplotlib no longer work. You have to use the python3 commands: python3-numpy and python3-matplotlib
I tried both on Pi and Pi Pico and found my calibration results consistent but different for the X axis. Almost seems like the 1st harmonic for the Pico is missing or dampened. Can anyone explain why? I found your videos on Klipper the most helpful - Thanks
I noticed the chart referenced a csv file. I wonder how much improvement you could get with the actual values stored in the file vs eyeballing the chart.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Even 2 years later, this is a great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.
Tip for all: don't shutdown your printer while relocation the accelerometer. Those files are saved in the tmp folder and the files will clear.
This must be added to the video tutorial ASAP!
You mean don't shutdown your pi...
Fuuuuu. I just did all this crap, shut down my pi and went to my laptop to finish. Couldn't find the CSV files and then read this comment. So frustrated!
The printer MCU can be safely shut down, just don't shut down the host OS.
How do you save it then
This is the definitive Input Shaper vid to watch. It covers all the bases. Thank you so much!
Definitely want to see me more content like this
This may in fact be the single greatest video that has ever been posted on TH-cam. I was dreading setting up my Pi as a secondary MCU, but I just followed this video (as well as the Klipper docs) and it was actually quite easy, and now my prints look so much better! Thanks, Nero.
This video was fantastic. I've been toying with the idea of buying an accelerometer for input shaper for months now, and this has tipped me over the edge. Brilliant coverage, not too short, not too long, not patronising, and not a single mention of raid shadow legends. Thank you.
Dangit. Knew i forgot something
@@CanuckCreator rekt as the kids say
There are so many out there (myself included) that will benefit from this kind of instruction regarding klipper.
A tip. For soldering header pins flush to the board, put the board on a flat surface. Insert the pins, long pin down (ie opposite way to what you would expect), into the board then solder from the top side. The black plastic bit keeps the pins aligned but is spaced off the board so you can solder under it. Once soldered you can remove the black plastic bit (it will probably just slide off with a bit of wiggling) and you have completely flush (on the bottom) soldered pin header. Alternatively, if you want to keep the black bit then just push it down until it sits on the solder joints :)
I'd like an entire video about acceleration please
this
@@mensb1936 This this
Thank you for this guide, even if it is 2 years old, it helped me in installing and measuring my resonances in my printer!
Klipper is great but the documentation is hit.
This absolutely nailed it, thank you!
Alot of the documentation has been updated. See github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Config_Reference.md for example
One of the best content about adxl345 integration with Klipper...i would definately want to watch/learn more... one request, as we all know Voron switchwire is a different segment, it would be great if we can get similiar content/tests/results with your ender3 v2 which is an entry level and very common (cost effective) printer. I really wonder how the quality will be improved in e3v2 with such a sophisticated low cost modding...thanks again for your all effort and contribution the makers community...
I'm behind on this by a few months, but I'm very interested in Input Shaper and related topics to improve printer output.
The reality is no frame design is 100% rigid so using available tools to measure the vibration modes of the frame and stay away from them makes a ton of sense.
please do the videos you suggested at the end, those sound super interesting!
thanks for your video. i added now the input shaper in my voron 2.4 with Afterburner. Impressive Klipper funtionality. Its an must for each 3D enthusiast. Br from south germany!
Now with Input Shaper if I put wings on the extruder my printer will fly away! I just finished putting together my Switchwire and with Input Shaper I'm actually getting less ringing and better overall looking prints at higher speeds! Seems strange but I like it. 200mm/s is the highest I'm comfortable with now with max_accel @ 3000. If you see a flying 3d printer it's probably got Input Shaper! Thanks Nero!
I'm loving the Klipper series! Thanks for the work you put in on this!
This makes a good argument for core xy because you're getting most of your ringing from the x and y axis, but the y axis mass changes throughout the print
such an underrated channel, great guide.
nice and clear delivery. thank you for this "lesson" on input shaper
Thanks for the info Nero thanks for the tip on moving the power connections to simplify the harness to 4x2 for the Pi hookup. Very clever and useful.
Great video :)
Some video on determining max acceleration and speed of the printer would be great.
And also, I'll get an accelerometer now :)
Tremendous thank you and two thumbs up for this crash course. The improvements in printer performance even for a novice Klipper user is remarkable. With input shaping my printer operates smoother, which is especially noticeable when printing faster or using gyroid infill.
Love your videos! You explain everything in debt without making it boring and too long!
I think you mean in depth
you're my reference for Klipper content! you rock!!
Awesome content, thanks! Would love a follow-up with fine tuning.
Great explanation! I’ve been looking at input shaper on the klipper site and your video cleared up a lot. My sensor comes tomorrow so I’ll be giving it a go this weekend. Thanks.
Great! I've been shopping for servo motors recently for a CNC and they have pretty advanced features to notch out resonance. It's great to see this kind if thing come to 3D printing and without the cost of servos!
I just did this 2 days ago and it was really easy to use a command strip cut in half for each location on my bed slinger cr-10s pro v2!
Oh and I used the test print tower to find my max acceleration of 2500 mm/s^2
Thank you NERO 3D!
Input shaper are easy, because i watched your video 😅. My Prusa MK3S Bear now works perfectly 👌.
Great Job! Thank you very much for this awesome video! Keep it up man :)
OMG, this was an excellent tutorial! The set-by-step instructions were very helpful.
Hey Nero 3d ! Thanks for your new video today. I just happened to notice here that you have to carefully count along the pin rows of the rpi header. To make sure you are connecting the cable up to the right row position correctly on the rpi. As to avoid mis-wiring it. However sometimes it can be hard to see in dim light etc. and then make an honest mistake, hook it up wrong and fry something! So why not 3d print a small plastic locator adapter that fits over the smaller dupont 2*4 pin header plug, and then also uniquely maps more safely onto the larger rpi 40 pin header footprint. On the rpi. This way the locating adaptor can always make it impossible for the accelerometer to get plugged in incorrectly. I understand that for most regular people that is probably overkill. And not really necessary because most of us are only doing this task 1-2x times (ever). However you yourself happen to have so many more different 3d printers over there. And keep reusing the same accelerometer each time. So it just might be worth it for somebody like you. Or otherwise for a beginner person who is very scared of messing about with the electronics side of things. I hope the suggestion was helpful and worth reading.
way easier to just pay attention and learn how to count
@@johnandrews9433 definitely not “easier” the adapter would be ten-twenty minutes in cad and maybe an hour for both prints and you get absolutely mindless install every time. The savings will have added up after just a few uses of the system and would immediately pay for itself if you fry something for not using it. The guy is clearly eloquent enough to count but stated realistically that people can make mistakes
@@JeronimoStilton14 what, I’m not talking about an adapter. I’m talking about paying attention to what you’re soldering lmao. Work on your reading comprehension
@@johnandrews9433 Jeeeeesus dude you want to talk about lack of reading comprehension. You were telling someone that its easier to count than make an adapter.There is also no soldering involved on the connector side in question so you've honestly degraded your own premise.
@@JeronimoStilton14 yeah idk it’s just pretty fucking easy to count and not fry things like a tard lol
yay awesome video keep them coming!!, I want to see more!!
I've subscribed to your channel since your making Klipper tutorials to improve print quality
Hey, great content, I just swapped to Klipper 2 days ago, and i love it. I used some of your videos for config so thank you. I get almost the same results as you on my rails ender 3, with more on X than Y on the test print.
Yup, different axis`s will have different results usually, you can run different input shapers for each axis if needed, config would look somehting like
[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: xxx
shaper_type_x: mzv
shaper_freq_y: xxx
shaper_type_y: ei
@@CanuckCreator thank you. I am running ei for X mzv for Y. Another thing is do you disable z hop while doing prints?
@@deenman60 depends on the print..i always run z hop out of habit but it may not always be needed
Another Great video. Looking forward to more vids about Input Shaper and its features. A multipart series :)
THank you for this, I f inally decided to use this videeo, and finally am doing Fine tuning of my I nput shaper with this, rather then just manual tuning, and..I actually had guessed pretty close it looks like on my original input shaping attempts, But this is helping so much, I'm going to be t esting w ith my own from the graph, and also what the "Auto INput shaping" suggests, just to compare results.
I think it would be better to include the spring steel build plate when testing the Y axis. If the mass changes the harmonics will change.
This is correct, I had it on during the actual tuning but had it off when i went back to record the B-roll footage, should have made a note there.
Thanks for pointing this out!!
A note about 'do not touch anything', when using a removable accelerometer, using a heavy cable setup like you did that touches parts of the printer and has the cables that connect to the accelerometer tensioned, you are both dampening the accelerometer and already changing the conditions of the printer and its resonance.
Take care in minimizing the effect a detachable accelerometer has on the system.
Preferably, use light cabling with sufficient slack from the accelerometer to a decoupling perimeter point and from there use your heavier cable to reach the Pi.
For permanently attached accelerometers it doesn't matter that much, but making the installation, including cabling, as light as possible is always best practice for a moving axis on a 3D printer.
Also note, you can use the graphic output of the test routine with an accelerometer as a visualization and benchmark for fortifying your 3D printer, how it sits on your bench and fortifying your workbench.
I didn't save any shaper settings until I did a few things to make the printer, mounting of the printer and workbench more rigid.
oscillation
And that will make it so that the printer firmware and parts have to do less work removing the oscillation, giving you even more speed and less wear on your parts.
After I did what I could to remove as much resonance that way, I redid the calibration for use in Klipper itself and the amplitudes of the resonances were barely a 10th of what they were before and the frequency had shifted.
This was interesting, would be interested to see more info on how this actually works.
Hi Nero, I'm surprised no one has said anything but you are actually connecting the accelerometer to a 3.3v pin and not a 5v like you say in the video. other then that great video! thank you!
This is what I was woundering about. Does the 3.3v still work for the ADXL 3453?
Very good! I think I I’ll be able to give it a try this weekend. Thanks nero!!!!!
Would love to see more details when you have time to share. Thanks for this tutorial 👍👍
VERY well done video! Thank you for explaining this in the manner that you did!!
Love your videos! Thanks for a great totutial. Will be doing that as soon as my printer is back up and running
Thanks for the link! I'm sure they'll be sold out before lunch :)
Thank you. Most informative. I wonder how this would work on a Delta.
Yes, we want to see more input shaping videos. Please do it on your new Trident! Is there a way to keep the ADXL permanently on the printer? It seems like StealthBurner should incorporate it.
In fact belts has the same phisics as a guitar's strings. When the head is in center - it has one resonance frequence and another one when the head moves to a side. Input shaping have to measure resonance in different points and approximate different frequencies depending on x / y position for better results
I had no idea this even existed, great vid
I just finished watching the livestream on this topic, now in the new room :D
Hmm small nitpick but if you’re already using numPy and a matlab script it should be able to automatically do peak data. A little bit of backend work and you should be able to tell it which axis you ultimately want and have it just automatically set the setting for you. That’s more on whoever wrote these scripts but just something to think about.
Been watching your videos specifically to get Klipper running on my v2 and using an accelerometer for input shaping. Your sharing of information has been the clearest by far, very much appreciated. I just have one suggestion: keep using the lapel mic instead of the stand mic. Your voice comes across much better and is more consistent as you turn back and forth from the printers.
Great video man, keep up your informative videos!! I needed this one!
Great video, good information, clear explanation, thanks, and keep up the good work, I would definitely want to see a more detailed introduction to input shaper. By the way, you just earned a subscriber
thank you for this video, kind of hard to find the info you need on a 3hours plus video
Awesome tutorial! I had to look up the chip to see where to get it. The funny part is, the very first link was for the dev of the chip. I actually work in the IT dept. for Analog Devices. I guess I don't have to go far to get support for the chip if I need any lol.
this was a great into to, but I would love to see a deep dive into the input shaper
This was a great video. I got it to work on the second pass attempt. A lot of steps to get the software all setup, worked very well and got some good numbers. Thanks for doing this
Just a little note, you are connecting to the 3.3v pin on the Pi not 5v. It looks like most of these chips are fine from 3.3-5v but just keep that in mind if you are having issues that might be related to the chip not getting enough voltage.
I was looking for that info. My accelerometer has a pin labeled VCC+5v and another one just labeled +3.3v, I guess that should be ok if I just hook the +3.3v to the pin 17 on the gpio, right?
Would like to see input shaper setup on the Ender 3
First of all thank you so much for an epic video this has really helped me get through Klipper's docs. Secondly, so when you decide where to set the shaper Hz... in the terminal after you type in the calibration sand it is setting the png file. it tells you on the terminal what the best shaper type and Hz range is for each axis...
so for instance when I had typed in the code to read each tmp file, after it had compiled it in to a png it told me "recommended shaper ei at 90hz and y axis @ mvz 45Hz, thought this would be an easier and quicker way to do it instead of logging into winscp and extracting the png files
This is great, please talk about max acceleration as well! Currently running at 3k because that’s where my gap starts opening up on the ringing tower!
Awesome video! I would like to know how to discover the highest speed that you can print using klipper. I have a Anycubic Mega S with klipper and you are encouraging me to tune it to become a beast kkkk
Your content is excellent, congratulations and thank you very much.
Great video. Im a peasant printing at 45mm/s. Time to get me some Klippy~
Please more about Klipper and Input Shaper! :)
Great video (as always!) I'd love to see a more in-depth video.
I love your content, you've taught me a lot about 3dp tuning. However, I find your explanations for working with raspberry pi and Linux through ssh leave out a LOT of assumed knowledge and are difficult to follow. Would be nice to have an explanation of WHY you perform each command rather than just a pre-prescribed set of commands to enter.
hey sooo, to connect my accelerometer to the bed of my printer i just designed and printed a shape with a screw hole in it, printed it and simply left it attached to the bed, this held fine and i believe is probably the best solution to not having a screw available on the bed
Great video as always
Love your dive into the deep end, with this experience it seams as a walk in the park!
Would love more in depth videos of Klipper adjustments
That for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀
Kinda new to all this, thanks for the vid :D
It's important to note that input shaping with the described wiring is only possible on a printer with a Raspberry Pi host computer or a Bigtreetech Pi4B carrier equipped with a Raspberry CM4 module. The Bigtreetech CB1 module is missing one of the physical connections required for input shaping. The same goes also for the new stand-alone BTT-Pi board BTW. This is by far the biggest drawback of using H616 processor based BTT host computers instead of genuine RPi's.
would love to see a Deep Dive video!
Awesome video, thank you!
Took me a few minutes to realize but, make sure you use lowercase for the "mzv" shaper type
...and be sure to like that smash button!
I would definitely like to know more about input shaper. Just started running octoprint ony ender 3 and just got done sourcing the parts for my voron 2.4 yesterday.
Excelente Video, Saludos desde Perú.
A headsup for people using the Adafruit version (the blue one in the picture): 3.3v and gnd are switched! Also the hole is nog M3 compatible.
Pretty sure I just destroyed mine by switching the 3.3v and GND. For some reason only the Z-axis still reports values.
Nero fantastic tutorial. I have the issue of no internet connection connected to printer. How do I instal numpy etc
Hey guy's i have installed input shaper on my printer but i keep getting this error in fluidd !! No adxl345 measurements found. I followed your instructions to the T.
if its not too much trouble and worth your time, maybe try to put in amazon links for europe as well next time. I’m glad to use your affiliate links.
I found my results from non--accelerometer measuring to be rather fantastic, actually.
More in depth video on input shaper plz!!!
Thanks! Great video and tutorial. I have a sovol sv04 with 2 extruder. I can test only main extruder?
Consultation. When putting linear guides, the nozzle is advanced in the bed, how are these values corrected in klipper?
Thanks nero
Shouldn't the ACCELEROMETER_QUERY Value for Z be around 9800?? I found that when I swapped my low cost ADXL 345 for an ada-fruit sensor I then had a Z acceleration value more in line with gravity and also much lower noise values.... I'm a bit worried you're measured acceleration values are off and you could be compensating for wrong resonance frequencies 🤷♂️ What does your MEASURE_AXES_NOISE values state? Is it in line with the recommended < 100 values?
Really nice and informative. Thanks👍
You know he's serious when he wears an apron for 3d printing. lol. Thanks Nero for the great videos.
at 5:48 i guess its python3-numpy and python3-matplotlib now
Does the spool mounted to the frame change the resonant frequency? For example, you ran the test with one spool, does adding a second change it? And would a new 1 k spool be different than one close to empty?
Great work
Can you please share design of the printer behind you
Great video! Can other types of acceleration modules be used? I have an MPU6050 handy in my drawer. Thanks.
Fab video thanks Nero - but I do wonder after all this we input two numbers into our config - is it much different to the numbers I entered manually using my calipers on the ghosting?
Quick correction: the standard python commands for numpy and matplotlib no longer work. You have to use the python3 commands: python3-numpy and python3-matplotlib
can you please specify your help. this is too cryptic for me , because my hybby is printing . i can´t program.
i did install numpy 1.9.3 but he does not calculate.... he sais waiting for calculation.....
Nice and concise!
At this point I think the SW is Nero's default mod printer
I tried both on Pi and Pi Pico and found my calibration results consistent but different for the X axis. Almost seems like the 1st harmonic for the Pico is missing or dampened. Can anyone explain why? I found your videos on Klipper the most helpful - Thanks
I noticed the chart referenced a csv file. I wonder how much improvement you could get with the actual values stored in the file vs eyeballing the chart.
Aren't top right values on the charts is the ready answers?
@@Gebsfrom404 I think you are right. I missed that. It even gives a shaper recommendation.
I would love to see a follow up video to see those setting in play and compare results.