Content in title begins at over 9 minutes in lol Summary: Use an enclosure Bed = 90-100 C Hotend = 240 C Buildplate = BIQU sss super spring steel sheet Cooling = Off Layer height = 0.2mm Initial layer height = 0.25mm Buildplate Adhesion = Brim, 5mm (if using glass also use hairspray) Perimeter speed = 40mm/s Infill speed = 60mm/s First layer speed = 30mm/s ABS Filament Brand = eSun
Pro ABS maker here: DON'T open the enclosure as soon as the print finishes. Let it cool down as slowly as possible. Your chances of warping go way down.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Agree! I have opened my enclose many times during large ABS printing jobs and nothing bad happened to the part. However I have to mention that my ambient temperature is not cold (above 25C for sure).
Dude so true. It was kinda embarrassing for me to figure it out after 5 years of ABS printing:) How many prints have I ruined that way?! Because it's not only wrapping. With shock cooling, you also introduce unnecessary stress in your parts. They get way more brittle.
Nobody ever mentions it but another really nice thing about ABS is the weight reduction. It produces very light weight parts, if that’s something you are interested in.
ABS is definitely lighter: 1 g/cm3 vs 1.26 g/cm3 for PETG. BUT: PETG is much (50-100%) stronger, so to have strong part from ABS you will need more perimeters = more weight.
For those who dont want to spend on an enclosure, Most slicers have 'Draft Sheilds' Which will print a vase mode like shield around your object. they work great for small prints every now and then
PrisaSlicer has a draft shield but sadly, still no draft shield in OrcaSlicer, but I use a single perimeter skirt almost as tall as the part and that seems to do fairly well, although an enclosure is better. I just started using PETG and its ease of printing has now made it my go to material for most structural applications unless I really need that added 20 C heat resistance.
First ABS print today. Now I am prepared. People had me very worried about fumes/particles (appreciate your perspective). Thank you. BTW, my PETG prints were poor, so next I watch your video on that. Again thanks, Doug
we print almost all in ABS with a little PetG and nylon too. I found an enclosure and with Magigoo helped a lot with adhesion. I added heat lamp bulbs on a dimmer switch and on the Ender 3 pro a don't even need a brim most of the time when the chamber temp is between 40-50 celsius. I did install an all metal hotend and moved my controls and power supply outside the case and have a hole to vent the mothboard fan out the bottom of the case.
Ensuring the filament doesn’t get stretched or compressed in the extruded is also vital as warping occurs due to stresses in the cooling filament. Stretching and compression can occur in abs filament when it is not hot enough. Therefore, I always start with the extruded on the hottest temp recommended by vendor (Prusa abs recommends 255c) and dial it back slightly over time if plates of parts remain flat. Additionally, parts towards the edges of beds are likely to warp first/faster so reduce the number of parts to the centre part of the bed can help as well. Also, don’t print at night, “mostly… mostly…”
Absolutely! I am very happy with the responses. I wanted to focus more on the obscure less known filaments but it seems that there is definitely interest that I had expected. Looking forward to doing future videos like this :)
Not to brag, I've been printing with ABS for longer than I care to admit hahaha,, let's just say when E3D came out with their V4 hotend lol it was a welcomed replacement to J heads hahaha, Still to this day I use ABS for finished products simply for its ease of use when assembling and finishing larger multi-part prints with not much detail,. Fiberglass resin bonds well to it which is useful in many ways, and then again, I like using PETG because Fiberglass resin does not bond to it, so perfect for molds and such, Nowadays we are so lucky to have such a wide range of filament blends easily available to us, that sticking to a single filament doesn't makes sense. when I started 3d printing ABS was pretty much the only goto filament because if you wanted reasonable PLA you had to buy it from Colorfabb and it was more than 2 to 3 times the price per roll than ABS was. lol The good ol days huh.
Haha oh yeah I definitely can relate. It is crazy how far we have come and what options are available. It simply was not this way. In a sense I can see it as being a bit more overwhelming for newcomers with the endless options but there also is so much more data making it easier to jump in.
I'm printing at about 80mm/s on my E5+ 12:10 and I have cooling part fan (5015) on around 20-40%. Seems to be fine in my case but I also have it in a large tent enclosure with a thermostat keeping it at 48-50c. But when I did it without an enclosure I would 100% agree with the 0% cooling.
I'm printing *mostly* in ABS on my well modified Ender 3 (BMG direct extruder with V6 hotend, Klipper as a firmwere). And I like ABS the most! To make I kind of enclosure I just put my printer in IKEA wooden cabinet with a glass door. I never have any issues with warping or delaminating. My settings usually 250-270 C for hotend (260+ temperature I'm using for special parts only), 100-105C bed temparature. Speed settings are usually 150 mm/s (Cura automatically sets speed 75mm/s for almost anything except for the infill, which I print at 100 mm/s).
Some really good technical tips you mentioned. Thanks! I found ABS was a real problem child for me. I found PEI build surface was the biggest help for me. Personally, I will only make a component out of ABS if its a part that a customer wants to post process themselves by hand to look as pretty as possible. Thanks again for the video man!
I print with rebranded eSun (Inland) ABS in an open printer with almost no issues on a TRONXY X5SA. I use Cura. The key is to print with a draft shield, se about 5mm from the perimeter. Other than that, 230C/100C, 80mm/s. Set min. layer time to 20sec for parts with small pointy areas, and use maybe 5% to 10% cooling on large overhangs. Printed my entire Ratrig with only 2 reprints, both of which were EVA parts that needed cooling.
I’m literally currently printing off a roll a sprite green petg that has been open for years at least 5 years not in a box or nothing I didn’t really even blow all the dust off it and the roll has been stored in my unconditioned garage for the past 2-3 months and it’s printing fantastically no issues and the parts look terrific. It’s matter hacker petg. I’ve never had a moisture issue with any pla, petg or flex filaments
New to the channel!!! Really looking to try it out!!! Just starting out printing with ABS and everything has failed!! So, I look forward to try again and be successful this time!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world!!!
Nice work. One of my last observations printing ABS is that a speed too low not always help, as it allows the tip to drag the material back on sharp ends, warping them. I was using speeds as low as 10 on the first layer with PETG, but my parts with ABS were warping in the corners. I increased all the speeds and it seems the quick change in directions on the corners help them to stay sharp and flat.
I feel like every brand abs is different. Ive used matterhackers abs at average 45-55% speed, then on basf abs needs much slower at 20-45% speed so it all depends. Also what your printing is a big thing as well. My go to temp is 250-255 C on my ultimaker 2+. Bed temp 100 C.
My first printer was the Robo 3D R1+. I haven't printed with ABS in years. I used to only print with ABS back in the day as I found PLA to be useless to me for most functional parts as it softens at very low temperatures. After years of my ABS slurry taking large chunks out of my tempered glass bed due to very strong adhesion, I was getting frustrated with ABS. After I bought a Flashforge Guider II and a couple Flashforge Creator Pros, I discovered PETG. After I tried PETG, I switched away from ABS and never looked back again. There is nothing like a PETG print on a heated polypropylene bed lightly coated with Aquanet. The prints are glued to the bed during the print and self release when cooled. Anyway, that was a long time ago. You have inspired me to try ABS again. I have about 100 brand new spools in my closet collecting dust and I have acquired about 20 more 3D printers (many enclosed) since then. I wonder how ABS adheres to polypropylene... Time to find out.
Holy shit haha I read this message and was like this all makes sense then jumped to 100 spools and 20 more printers. That is wild, are you running a printing service or have a product you are making? I am stoked to hear I inspired you to dust off some ABS spools :)
Hmm. Makes me want to try ABS again, especially since I have over a dozen barely touched spools laying around. Kinda gave up on it back in the day because of all the typical problems and me having no readily available solutions.
Micro Swiss is really good, loved them when I had my Creality Printer! Thanks for the video! Really interesting and you explained everything very well also!
HIPS is a great replacement of ABS unless you will put your models into D-limonen (it is as bad as acetone for ABS, but nobody thinks that ABS is a solvable support material), except I found only white option. And for high temperature I prefer PC.
I have not adjusted in the slicer for shrinkage but I do think that is a great option especially for parts that will have fairly tight tolerances. I have recommended this in conversation to people before :)
Ws planning on printing ABS soon, perfect timing, and a wealth of great information on printing ABS. Already have an enclosure and vent setup ordered. That odor is formaldahyde, which is released in small amounts during normal printing temps. Occasional contact is fine, but if you print it regularly, a simple extraction fan to the outside is best. Prolonged contact is correlated with higher cancer occurance, and not just in california. Still safer than being near a campfire, which tends to output more than 3x what your car makes in carbon emissions in a year. (Take that hippies!) Don't stress, but don't ignore it.
I imagine your campfire comparison is referring to particulates or CO, not CO2... the average person goes through like, literally billions of BTUs of energy every year driving their fat arses around in their car powered by dangerous, highly volatile gasoline. Even diesel would be a good alternative, but in the US its been effectively banned because US automakers didnt want to have to figure out how to make diesel engines.
I started with ABS as well using it for 8 years. I have had moisture issues on rare occasions, at one point I used a 50x microscope to take photos of direct extrusion (in air) from wet ABS and you could see hundreds of bumps on the surface from micro bubbles popping, I then dried that same spool and did the photo again and it was perfectly smooth. Back then I bought into the myth that ABS was stronger than PLA but now I print mostly PLA with the occasional PETG, I have 2 rolls of ABS but have never opened them as I find PETG works for anything I would normally use ABS for (except vapor smoothing of course).
Just remember that ABS is lighter, stiffer, and higher heat resistance. Otherwise blob-on with petg :) I just started printing it since I have a v0.1 kit in the mail and I'm loving it except for the fumes.
I have been trying to get abs to work on my Anycubic Kobra Plus, but haven't used a complete enclosure yet because I am concerned about overheating my printer. Is this a valid concern? The Kobra series has the components under the bed that is already pretty hot, but without airflow it is going to cook, idk though 😐
I have the same printer in a full creality enclosure. Never had any issues and helps loads with prints. About to try ABS over the next few days at 235/80 in the enclosure. Have heard of going to 90 but with the enclosures I don't think I'll have too
@@IFR_HeliToursVR yeah i ended up making an enclosure for it a while back and havent stopped running abs through it 250/90. Have had a half dozen nozzle temp shut downs, but that is likely a separate, but related issue... lol, seriously. I think the thermistor may be damaged or worn, and then the added heat from running abs is causing.. sometimes, the error. I have been too lazy to fix it rn, and the issue only happens once in maybe 10-15 prints. I actually have all new hot end parts ready to go, but again... to lazy to do it rn 😆
Also, Micro Swiss sent out free 0.4 nozzles last year to people printing PTEG PPE over stay at home order for hospitals. It was a great nozzle and gesture.
Do not print without cooling in a enclosure with an ender 3 V2! The part cooling fan is tied in series with the motherboard fan, you can catch fire or simply toast your board, specially the steppers!
Very useful video for everyone including the experienced users. Thank you. I am trying to build a voron legacy and am printing the parts on a ender 3 pro and max. I found success printing on glass bed with 100mm print speeds with first layer at 50mm and outer layers at 50. Rest which is inner layers and infill i print at 100mm. Hope this helps...
Great video man! Lots of information m. Will give it a try with your slicer settings. Been printing a lot of ASA on the v0.1 lately, similar settings: 245C hotend and 110C for first layer and 240/105 for subsequent layers.
ive been using abs for years now for rc crawlers hardbodys because you can bond it to polystyrene and sand it smooth. ive noticed that you can print abs without an enclosure if you just bump up the heat of the hotend by 5-10c more than you think you need.
I don't think so? Warping is due to the internal forces as a result of temperature differences between the printed parts (cold) and the ones getting printed (hot). The hotter your nozzle with respect to the bed, the worse the warping will be.
Considering you can buy an enclosure for around $100 for a large 300x300x400 printer like mine, I see no reason not to go ahead and get one. Even if I don’t print much ABS, I love the dust protection.
Funny, I just started working on printing parts for a Voron Legacy a couple of days ago. Doing them in PETG because none of my current printers are really capable of printing ABS well. Hopefully, the PETG parts will last long enough for the Legacy to print its own replacement parts in ABS that I can swap out in chunks (starting with the bits closest to the nozzle, obviously).
Awesome! What made you decide on going with the legacy? It is my understanding you should be fine to do exactly what you are describing and can swap out parts once assembled :) I would not wait to long though to prevent warping issues.
@@ModBotArmy Mostly what made me go for it was already having a bunch of the parts (linear rods, bearings, etc) lying around doing nothing and I want to cannibalise one of my i3 clones that I'm not using anymore. So, the plan is to print up a set of parts for one in PETG, then use that to print up two sets of parts in ABS to replace itself and to be able to cannibalise the other i3 clone. Eventually I'll have a go at a big 2.4 (I've got a 310x310 build plate here that needs to find a home, haha).
Great video. I just subscribed. I’m new to 3d printing and have my first printer on order. Couple questions. What material would withstand outdoors (sun, rain, snow etc. ) better? ABS or PETG? Also, my printer will be in the basement where it is about 60°F in wintertime. Is 60°F ambient temp. a problem for 3D printing. Any particular filament better suited for colder environments? Thanks.
ASA would be better than either; it is more like ABS, but specifically formulated for UV resistance. Low ambient temps are fine if you have an enclosure; turn on the heated bed for a little while before your print starts and the temps outside the enclosure won't make as much of a difference.
While I love printing CF Nylon (pa6 ht, source luvocom, filaments by Spectrum, innovatefil,treed - same material) it’s somewhat expensive and with properties not required for a lot of projects. But heck, that thing prints like a dream on a straight glass, got my settings right on a first try. Next time I will try ABS with kevlar. I print regular ABS/ASA. Polycarbonate, well, is quite hard to print and with prices getting to the level of CF Nylon while having properties not up to par with it, I rather choose PA CF.
Just be careful that the bag does not get tangled in the printer! I have seen bags used before though as a makeshift enclosure and it should work fine.
FWIW ABS adheres extremely well to sanded PEI such as the smooth Prusa sheet. I use the gray Scotch Brite pads. Don't go coarser than 320 grit. You are looking to add a little 'tooth' to the surface.
I have watched a ton of videos learning what I can before I buy a printer. This is the first one that actually referred to actual research evidence. Well explained too, thank you very much. I need to do just about everything in abs ...... so looks like the ender 3 v2 neo will be sufficient if not perfect. Wish I had seen this first 😂.
I got to print ABS recently. Same reason (VORON 2.4). What I can say additionaly. ABS from different manufacturers behave very different. I had no luck with the first one from Zortrax ABS+. The parts were warping with enclosure and a brim at 6mm (Prusa Slicer). Than I switched to ESUN normal ABS. Same settings and enclosure. No warping at all. I even switched to no brim. Still nothing. So my advice would be. Try different manufacturers before losing your mind on one.
@@alejandroperez5368 so I gathered a little bit more experience in the meantime. I can break it down in two pin points. 1. First layer height is essential. Get it right and you should have your filament sucking it self down on the PEI sheet (good sign for that is the point when your bottom looks smooth AF. NO seperate lines). 2. ABS doesn't like finger oils. So get something like Isopropanol or other high grade alcohol. CHECK if it doesn't degrade PEI!! I have a habit now to wipe before ever print. That's all! Happy printing!
i am having problems with my nozzel clogging mid print. i have run a temp tower, flow test, retraction test and all seems ok. I am printing at 235 nozzel and 90 on the bed. it is pretty frustrating with the constant clogs and i could use some help to resolve this if you have any ideas.. Oh yeah the printer is a K1 max
That is the plan. Since I will not be doing a step by step I would love to do like an overview/recap where I talk about the good and bad about the build and my experience so I can share any feedback I think may be useful
@@ModBotArmy This sounds great. I will be with you I promise 😁 I think a step by step video is not required, the Voron documentation is quite good. If you mention the problems you had and the reasons why you have taken mods this would be most helpful. //R
I'm in az and I print abs in my garage in the open air since the garage is soooo hot! I had to put extra fans on the electronics to keep them cooler though 😎
Haha I want to say must be nice to not need an enclosure but I am not sure if that is appropriate because ABS may be happy but what about yourself?! We have been looking to move to AZ for a while and Phoenix area is HOT
Arizona has been nice! The weather is hot but other than summer it's in nice weather! I'm going to be insulation the garage door and putting in a mini split ac system soon. The cost of living is low as well so it's nice!
I don't understand why every person I've heard talk about using hairspray as an adhesion promoter always mentions aquanet and refers to cans containing CFCs or whatever... I use a cheap pump bottle of suave which is easy to control to eliminate over spray and is less harmful to the environment. I like it because for almost all the filaments I've used stick well with it and self release when cooled.
No idea the origin but Aquanet has almost always been a staple in the 3d printing space for adhesion. I cannot remember a time people were not swearing by it.
@@alejandroperez5368 In that sense yes but it has very poor shock characteristics. Print a PETG block and throw it on the ground. It will shatter in to smaller pieces
Still love that smile at the intro. Great vid as always. I know this is an ABS vid but, I only have ever printed in PLA and I finally bought my first roll of PETG to try because of your channel. I make a lot of "functional" parts and PLA has been great but I really do need stronger prints.
PLA is stronger (tensile strength) than most other materials, the problem with it is that it warps under pressure and has low heat tolerance. As an example I printed a clamp style headphone holder for my heavy Astro headphones and it kept warping from the constant weight. I printed it in PETG and due to the flexibility it doesn't warp permanently under pressure like PLA. PLA isn't the most widely used filament only because it's easy to print, it's a great material with a lot of good properties With that said I print as much if not more PETG because it's easy to sand, it's flexible, and has a higher glass transition temperature.
Haha I am happy that you like the intro :)! PET-G is great and PLA can totally be used for functional parts as well. As mentioned below main disadvantages is low heat resistance and (this may be a plus for some) but it is super stiff so it has pretty poor impact resistance compared to PETG. What project are you working on?? Post photos in the discord :)
foam boards from the dollar store make great enclosures an cheap. an u can also use them to make rc planes. 3d print u up some corner brackets an u can have a enclosure with a hinged door pretty easy with just 5 sheets. cant use them on bigger delta printers like a flsun qq-s but they work well to build doors for the delta.
Can you do a deeper dive on prusa slicer on M1 Macs. I’m currently running cura and I believe it’s still running through rosetta. I’ll get the odd crash or text field that doesn’t look right.
I can't wait to see your voron 0.1 build! I would love to learn about your experience since I am planning to do the same soon but there's some drawbacks that stop regular people from doing so. We need your expertise regarding this particular Voron community. Thanks for your opinion and reviews!
Thank you for the very kind comment. I for at least the 0.1 will not be doing a step by step or live stream but I will be making various videos on it and will do my best to compile what difficulties I ran into and sort of my overall thoughts for someone that may be wanting to do this. I feel like not having an engineering background makes many feel they can relate which is awesome. I will definitely do my best :D
I will do my best. I know I will not be live streaming the build due to space/time constraints but I do plan on making a video on parts used and can do my best to cover or at least go over the NeverMore :)
@@ModBotArmy If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me on discord (0ndsk4#5933). There is a newer version that doesn’t require those odd size magnets for instance.
Going with ASA over ABS these days seems to be the strat. Very similar properties, but far less odor, and less prone to warping, or so I hear. I do believe my Voron - or maybe Ratrig, not sure - will have CF-ASA parts, ie carbon fiber infused ASA.
Hi! Don't use CF infused parts for the mechanically stressed Voron parts. Regular ABS has some flex, the CF filaments are more crack prone under load. Check the Voron discord for examples. Cheers!
4:20 I don't think PETG has better impact resistance than ABS. CNC kitchen's tests seem to indicate that PETG isn't all that impact resistant while PCTG (a special variant of PETG) has comparable but not better impact resistance than ABS. th-cam.com/video/-FtnXYDi7z0/w-d-xo.html
hey @ModBot, think you could do a review on PLA-F ? its supposedly got characteristics like ABS and PLA but is it really just PLA that acts like ABS ? or is it actually ABS ?
Question for you ModBot. I'm using Overature Orange PETG filament and so far on a benchy I can get it to stick to the bed and print up to the deck, then the thinner walls start to fail. Layers don't stick to each other and it seems there is under extrusion. Overature was nice enough to give me a full refund as I tried all their tricks and so far this is the best I have gotten. I'm wondering if it's just a bad roll and yes it's been like this since taking it out of the package. It's been stored back in the sealed package with silci packets. Guess I'll get another roll of PETF from another company to see if that was the issue or not. I need higher temp filament for prints I plan to put in my vehicle. Thanks!
Hey so it is really hard to diagnose without visuals like photos or videos. It is entirely possibly it is a bad spool which I would not rule out. Since you got a refund it could not heard to try a different brand and see if your results are the same. PETG adhesion I either use PEI, or glass with a bit of glue stick and it usually works quite well. If it is repeatable with the other spool and is under-extruding I would try raising temp, a cold pull (if you want), or just swap the nozzle as they are cheap to make sure there is no gunk in the hotend.
I find the pure ABS is really good if you can print it. The modified ones have fairly poor layer adhesion in comparison. I personally prefer ABS over PETG or PLA as ABS doesnt creep anywhere near as much. But it does require a decent enclosure and it also stinks. Ive tried various ABS+ blends and none of them are really as good as pure ABS, even the popular brands.
Very timely. I decided to try printing ABS for the first time this weekend and your advice was spot on. My calibration prints all looked really good including the retraction test which didn't have a wisp of a string. Is low/no stringing typical for ABS or did I get lucky and land in the retraction sweet spot for this Hatchbox material? Hopefully it does as well on a larger practical print. It does smell a bit like what I imagine a melted lego would smell like when I open the enclosure to retrieve the print but fortunately it's out in the garage. Thanks again for the excellent content.
Awesome to hear! And yeah it is pretty great as far as not being very stringy. That is one of my biggest annoyances with PET-G. Overall, other than fumes it is great stuff. Thank you for watching and good luck on your project.
Blending filaments can be tricky. I have limited experience and always recommend things like dove tails to help hold them together. Would love to explore the combining of filaments more.
I built a v0.0 and have had all kinds of problems with curling on my prints. Your top hat parts look fantastic, but my overhangs are crap! Did you experience any curling on overhangs that you addressed?
What printer did you print the parts on that you had a lot of issues? I did not have issues with overhangs unless I was just printing one small part and the layer had no time to harden., On a few Voron parts I had to print multiple of the same thing to give each layer enough time to cool down.
@@ModBotArmy I printed the tophat parts on a Prusa MK3S (enclosed, modified with a Hemera, using a couple of different cooling ducts). I also have the problem on my v0. Last night I printed the test parts from the v2.4 repo (various threaded parts, the calibration cube) and some of the horizontal threads have curled up a bit. Layer time was about 1m, fan was off (but my tophat parts still had poor overhangs with 100% fan).
First, really good information. Second , I always though tit funny when you needed a 3D printer to build a 3D printer. For those that don't have a 3D printer it does get a little frustrating. Granted there are some companies that sell Voron 3D printed parts.
I know I have heard of some printers having issues with demagnetizing at various temps but I have not experienced that issue with WhamBam or this B1 at least yet.
I hate PETG and LOVE ABS. I have such an easier time getting great print quality with ABS. It has a way higher glass transition temperature which I need for functional parts, and warping is almost a non issue on pretty large parts with a simple heated enclosure and a powder-coated bed.
I always enjoy your content which is precise and up to the point. I'm quite new in 3D printing and so I wonder... How come you (still) recommend ABS instead ASA? ASA is supposed to have many advantages over ABS: even better temperature stability, much higher UV resistance, more forgiving in printing (i.e. less warping), etc. So, except it's (just) slightly more expensive, it seems to be overall better choice than ABS. Because of those reasons, I decided to use ASA for my "special" applications (where ABS/ASA characteristics are needed). I mean, why would I use 2nd best? Am I not seeing something and is thus my way of thinking wrong?
I agree ASA is superior. Biggest issue is price but if you're patient, you can snag 1KG spools on Amazon for less than $30. Second issue I've noticed is that you have to print ASA much hotter (ie 255-260) for the quality everyone brags about. A lot of people don't have printers that get that hot unfortunately
@@3dPrintingMillennial At store where I'm buying I can get various brands starting from 25€ (vs 20€ for ASA) -even prices in Europe tend to be higher than in US. But yes, I can understand that price difference can be deciding factor. As for printing temperatures, I think all ABS capable printer (bed temp 90+C) can also reach 260+C on hotend -could be I'm wrong on that.
Hey! No so you are totally right I would choose ASA over ABS. Near identical properties but ASA is superior in a few ways. I did make a video on ASA and spoke highly of it. Currently price and color are the biggest factors. I can get ABS under 20 dollars a roll no problem while ASA can be double of that. Also ASA doesnt seem to come in nearly as many colors yet. I would love to see ASA prices drop and more selection. At that point I would gladly use it completely over ABS.
@@ModBotArmy Thank you for replying. Just so it doesn't look like I'm bragging about prices, here's where I buy: www.3djake.com/3d-printer-filaments/asa-filament?&f%5B39%5D=77 I'm not an affiliate with that sore (is only about info). And of course prices depend on brand.. but one doesn't need to choose the most expensive to get decent prints. Wish you great time... and continue with good content :-)
Content in title begins at over 9 minutes in lol
Summary:
Use an enclosure
Bed = 90-100 C
Hotend = 240 C
Buildplate = BIQU sss super spring steel sheet
Cooling = Off
Layer height = 0.2mm
Initial layer height = 0.25mm
Buildplate Adhesion = Brim, 5mm (if using glass also use hairspray)
Perimeter speed = 40mm/s
Infill speed = 60mm/s
First layer speed = 30mm/s
ABS Filament Brand = eSun
Thank you. I kinda gave up and scrolled the comments looking for this information.
Saved me from wasting time. Found out my part fan at 100% was my problem.
No fan on the nozzel ? Or only in the incloser ?
I have 2 fans
@@Theoneandonlybaconator I actually get better results with the part cooling fan at 10%
@@spidergoose891 ohhh, i only have om and off ?
Only my back fan, Can do 10-20-30-40-50-60-70-80-90-100😂
I have a flash forge avd. Pro 3
Pro ABS maker here: DON'T open the enclosure as soon as the print finishes. Let it cool down as slowly as possible. Your chances of warping go way down.
If the external temp is quite cold I can definitely see a shock factor being possible.
false. Warp happens only during print. Chamber temp is only like 50C
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Agree! I have opened my enclose many times during large ABS printing jobs and nothing bad happened to the part.
However I have to mention that my ambient temperature is not cold (above 25C for sure).
Dude so true. It was kinda embarrassing for me to figure it out after 5 years of ABS printing:) How many prints have I ruined that way?!
Because it's not only wrapping. With shock cooling, you also introduce unnecessary stress in your parts. They get way more brittle.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h I kinda agree, but still leaving part to slowly cool down might help with reducing internal stresses
Nobody ever mentions it but another really nice thing about ABS is the weight reduction. It produces very light weight parts, if that’s something you are interested in.
ABS is definitely lighter: 1 g/cm3 vs 1.26 g/cm3 for PETG. BUT: PETG is much (50-100%) stronger, so to have strong part from ABS you will need more perimeters = more weight.
For those who dont want to spend on an enclosure, Most slicers have 'Draft Sheilds' Which will print a vase mode like shield around your object. they work great for small prints every now and then
seriously?
@@justchill4886 yup. Works fine
@@neayt9952 i tried one and yeah kinda works at half of the print it messed but yes it works great
It's all fun and games until the draft shield itself warps off the bed, leaving the part you want protected from drafts exposed lol
PrisaSlicer has a draft shield but sadly, still no draft shield in OrcaSlicer, but I use a single perimeter skirt almost as tall as the part and that seems to do fairly well, although an enclosure is better. I just started using PETG and its ease of printing has now made it my go to material for most structural applications unless I really need that added 20 C heat resistance.
First ABS print today. Now I am prepared. People had me very worried about fumes/particles (appreciate your perspective). Thank you.
BTW, my PETG prints were poor, so next I watch your video on that. Again thanks, Doug
we print almost all in ABS with a little PetG and nylon too. I found an enclosure and with Magigoo helped a lot with adhesion. I added heat lamp bulbs on a dimmer switch and on the Ender 3 pro a don't even need a brim most of the time when the chamber temp is between 40-50 celsius. I did install an all metal hotend and moved my controls and power supply outside the case and have a hole to vent the mothboard fan out the bottom of the case.
Ensuring the filament doesn’t get stretched or compressed in the extruded is also vital as warping occurs due to stresses in the cooling filament. Stretching and compression can occur in abs filament when it is not hot enough. Therefore, I always start with the extruded on the hottest temp recommended by vendor (Prusa abs recommends 255c) and dial it back slightly over time if plates of parts remain flat. Additionally, parts towards the edges of beds are likely to warp first/faster so reduce the number of parts to the centre part of the bed can help as well.
Also, don’t print at night, “mostly… mostly…”
Wow. A METRIC TON of great information!! Thanks.
Absolutely! I am very happy with the responses. I wanted to focus more on the obscure less known filaments but it seems that there is definitely interest that I had expected. Looking forward to doing future videos like this :)
@@ModBotArmy Do you have any printers that use 2.85mm filament?
Not to brag, I've been printing with ABS for longer than I care to admit hahaha,, let's just say when E3D came out with their V4 hotend lol it was a welcomed replacement to J heads hahaha, Still to this day I use ABS for finished products simply for its ease of use when assembling and finishing larger multi-part prints with not much detail,. Fiberglass resin bonds well to it which is useful in many ways, and then again, I like using PETG because Fiberglass resin does not bond to it, so perfect for molds and such, Nowadays we are so lucky to have such a wide range of filament blends easily available to us, that sticking to a single filament doesn't makes sense. when I started 3d printing ABS was pretty much the only goto filament because if you wanted reasonable PLA you had to buy it from Colorfabb and it was more than 2 to 3 times the price per roll than ABS was. lol The good ol days huh.
Haha oh yeah I definitely can relate. It is crazy how far we have come and what options are available. It simply was not this way. In a sense I can see it as being a bit more overwhelming for newcomers with the endless options but there also is so much more data making it easier to jump in.
3:30 - "Without further ado." End of preramble. Start of content.
I'm printing at about 80mm/s on my E5+ 12:10 and I have cooling part fan (5015) on around 20-40%. Seems to be fine in my case but I also have it in a large tent enclosure with a thermostat keeping it at 48-50c. But when I did it without an enclosure I would 100% agree with the 0% cooling.
I'm printing *mostly* in ABS on my well modified Ender 3 (BMG direct extruder with V6 hotend, Klipper as a firmwere).
And I like ABS the most!
To make I kind of enclosure I just put my printer in IKEA wooden cabinet with a glass door. I never have any issues with warping or delaminating.
My settings usually 250-270 C for hotend (260+ temperature I'm using for special parts only), 100-105C bed temparature.
Speed settings are usually 150 mm/s (Cura automatically sets speed 75mm/s for almost anything except for the infill, which I print at 100 mm/s).
Okay, you forgot to explain what your parts look like. Are they large flat parts? Those will warp like hell...
@@alejandroperez5368 i have printed pretty big amplifier enclosure 220*210*80mm in size.
Some really good technical tips you mentioned. Thanks! I found ABS was a real problem child for me. I found PEI build surface was the biggest help for me. Personally, I will only make a component out of ABS if its a part that a customer wants to post process themselves by hand to look as pretty as possible. Thanks again for the video man!
You and me both! When I started off I thought ABS was a massive pain in the ass. PEI build surfaces have been amazing. Thanks for watching :)
I print with rebranded eSun (Inland) ABS in an open printer with almost no issues on a TRONXY X5SA.
I use Cura. The key is to print with a draft shield, se about 5mm from the perimeter.
Other than that, 230C/100C, 80mm/s.
Set min. layer time to 20sec for parts with small pointy areas, and use maybe 5% to 10% cooling on large overhangs.
Printed my entire Ratrig with only 2 reprints, both of which were EVA parts that needed cooling.
Core 3?
I have no experience with ABS yet. Came here because I am about to start printing parts for my V0.1 build. Thanks for the tips!
I’m literally currently printing off a roll a sprite green petg that has been open for years at least 5 years not in a box or nothing I didn’t really even blow all the dust off it and the roll has been stored in my unconditioned garage for the past 2-3 months and it’s printing fantastically no issues and the parts look terrific. It’s matter hacker petg. I’ve never had a moisture issue with any pla, petg or flex filaments
New to the channel!!! Really looking to try it out!!! Just starting out printing with ABS and everything has failed!! So, I look forward to try again and be successful this time!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world!!!
Those Voron parts look amazing. I will be printing to build a Voron too. Hope I can get those results.
Thank you Jose! Fingers crossed you get smooth prints bro :)
Nice work. One of my last observations printing ABS is that a speed too low not always help, as it allows the tip to drag the material back on sharp ends, warping them. I was using speeds as low as 10 on the first layer with PETG, but my parts with ABS were warping in the corners. I increased all the speeds and it seems the quick change in directions on the corners help them to stay sharp and flat.
I feel like every brand abs is different. Ive used matterhackers abs at average 45-55% speed, then on basf abs needs much slower at 20-45% speed so it all depends. Also what your printing is a big thing as well. My go to temp is 250-255 C on my ultimaker 2+. Bed temp 100 C.
What is 45%?
Best print surface for ABS and ASA: FR4 , love it, it's a game changer 😘
Thanks again! Lots of great advice.. love your work Dan.
wow the biqu surface is a game changer for my abs, i was using g10 with hairspray, glad i watched this and changed to the biqu build sheet, cheers!
My first printer was the Robo 3D R1+. I haven't printed with ABS in years. I used to only print with ABS back in the day as I found PLA to be useless to me for most functional parts as it softens at very low temperatures. After years of my ABS slurry taking large chunks out of my tempered glass bed due to very strong adhesion, I was getting frustrated with ABS. After I bought a Flashforge Guider II and a couple Flashforge Creator Pros, I discovered PETG. After I tried PETG, I switched away from ABS and never looked back again. There is nothing like a PETG print on a heated polypropylene bed lightly coated with Aquanet. The prints are glued to the bed during the print and self release when cooled. Anyway, that was a long time ago. You have inspired me to try ABS again. I have about 100 brand new spools in my closet collecting dust and I have acquired about 20 more 3D printers (many enclosed) since then. I wonder how ABS adheres to polypropylene... Time to find out.
Holy shit haha I read this message and was like this all makes sense then jumped to 100 spools and 20 more printers. That is wild, are you running a printing service or have a product you are making? I am stoked to hear I inspired you to dust off some ABS spools :)
Hmm. Makes me want to try ABS again, especially since I have over a dozen barely touched spools laying around. Kinda gave up on it back in the day because of all the typical problems and me having no readily available solutions.
This seems to be pretty common occurrence. There are a few other comments from people with near identical situations.
Micro Swiss is really good, loved them when I had my Creality Printer!
Thanks for the video! Really interesting and you explained everything very well also!
Have you done a video on filtration options for ASA and ABS? If not that would be cool to see.
Also how about a vid on material like PC/Nylon/etc?
HIPS is a great replacement of ABS unless you will put your models into D-limonen (it is as bad as acetone for ABS, but nobody thinks that ABS is a solvable support material), except I found only white option. And for high temperature I prefer PC.
Did you mention adjusting in the slicer for shrinkage? I find that scaling around 102% give or take .5% to get the correct size.
I have not adjusted in the slicer for shrinkage but I do think that is a great option especially for parts that will have fairly tight tolerances. I have recommended this in conversation to people before :)
Ws planning on printing ABS soon, perfect timing, and a wealth of great information on printing ABS. Already have an enclosure and vent setup ordered.
That odor is formaldahyde, which is released in small amounts during normal printing temps. Occasional contact is fine, but if you print it regularly, a simple extraction fan to the outside is best. Prolonged contact is correlated with higher cancer occurance, and not just in california. Still safer than being near a campfire, which tends to output more than 3x what your car makes in carbon emissions in a year. (Take that hippies!) Don't stress, but don't ignore it.
I imagine your campfire comparison is referring to particulates or CO, not CO2... the average person goes through like, literally billions of BTUs of energy every year driving their fat arses around in their car powered by dangerous, highly volatile gasoline. Even diesel would be a good alternative, but in the US its been effectively banned because US automakers didnt want to have to figure out how to make diesel engines.
CO2 is not toxic...
Really useful info. Great video. 👍
I started with ABS as well using it for 8 years. I have had moisture issues on rare occasions, at one point I used a 50x microscope to take photos of direct extrusion (in air) from wet ABS and you could see hundreds of bumps on the surface from micro bubbles popping, I then dried that same spool and did the photo again and it was perfectly smooth. Back then I bought into the myth that ABS was stronger than PLA but now I print mostly PLA with the occasional PETG, I have 2 rolls of ABS but have never opened them as I find PETG works for anything I would normally use ABS for (except vapor smoothing of course).
Just remember that ABS is lighter, stiffer, and higher heat resistance. Otherwise blob-on with petg :) I just started printing it since I have a v0.1 kit in the mail and I'm loving it except for the fumes.
I have been trying to get abs to work on my Anycubic Kobra Plus, but haven't used a complete enclosure yet because I am concerned about overheating my printer. Is this a valid concern? The Kobra series has the components under the bed that is already pretty hot, but without airflow it is going to cook, idk though 😐
I have the same printer in a full creality enclosure. Never had any issues and helps loads with prints. About to try ABS over the next few days at 235/80 in the enclosure. Have heard of going to 90 but with the enclosures I don't think I'll have too
@@IFR_HeliToursVR yeah i ended up making an enclosure for it a while back and havent stopped running abs through it 250/90.
Have had a half dozen nozzle temp shut downs, but that is likely a separate, but related issue... lol, seriously. I think the thermistor may be damaged or worn, and then the added heat from running abs is causing.. sometimes, the error. I have been too lazy to fix it rn, and the issue only happens once in maybe 10-15 prints. I actually have all new hot end parts ready to go, but again... to lazy to do it rn 😆
thanks man appreciate it, saved a lot of headaches
Also, Micro Swiss sent out free 0.4 nozzles last year to people printing PTEG PPE over stay at home order for hospitals. It was a great nozzle and gesture.
I got 3 kilos of ABS from a friend who couldn’t get it to print, so I am ecstatic about printing it!
Do not print without cooling in a enclosure with an ender 3 V2! The part cooling fan is tied in series with the motherboard fan, you can catch fire or simply toast your board, specially the
steppers!
Very useful video for everyone including the experienced users. Thank you. I am trying to build a voron legacy and am printing the parts on a ender 3 pro and max. I found success printing on glass bed with 100mm print speeds with first layer at 50mm and outer layers at 50. Rest which is inner layers and infill i print at 100mm. Hope this helps...
Great video man! Lots of information m. Will give it a try with your slicer settings. Been printing a lot of ASA on the v0.1 lately, similar settings: 245C hotend and 110C for first layer and 240/105 for subsequent layers.
Hey buddy! Thank you for watching and all of your help these past months. You have been so great! :) ASA is so good. I love that material.,
Great video thanks. My Ender 5 S1 is about to get it's first roll of ABS.
ive been using abs for years now for rc crawlers hardbodys because you can bond it to polystyrene and sand it smooth. ive noticed that you can print abs without an enclosure if you just bump up the heat of the hotend by 5-10c more than you think you need.
I don't think so? Warping is due to the internal forces as a result of temperature differences between the printed parts (cold) and the ones getting printed (hot). The hotter your nozzle with respect to the bed, the worse the warping will be.
great video as always 👍
Love your work, the back to the basic.
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Asger you are just a ray of sunshine in every video. Thank you for your positivity. I appreciate all of the kind words.
Started printing abs in 09… switched to asa a few years ago and have not touched abs since then.
Considering you can buy an enclosure for around $100 for a large 300x300x400 printer like mine, I see no reason not to go ahead and get one.
Even if I don’t print much ABS, I love the dust protection.
Great video buddy 👍
Funny, I just started working on printing parts for a Voron Legacy a couple of days ago. Doing them in PETG because none of my current printers are really capable of printing ABS well. Hopefully, the PETG parts will last long enough for the Legacy to print its own replacement parts in ABS that I can swap out in chunks (starting with the bits closest to the nozzle, obviously).
Awesome! What made you decide on going with the legacy? It is my understanding you should be fine to do exactly what you are describing and can swap out parts once assembled :) I would not wait to long though to prevent warping issues.
@@ModBotArmy Mostly what made me go for it was already having a bunch of the parts (linear rods, bearings, etc) lying around doing nothing and I want to cannibalise one of my i3 clones that I'm not using anymore. So, the plan is to print up a set of parts for one in PETG, then use that to print up two sets of parts in ABS to replace itself and to be able to cannibalise the other i3 clone.
Eventually I'll have a go at a big 2.4 (I've got a 310x310 build plate here that needs to find a home, haha).
@@JohnAldred So very much in keeping with the spirit of RepRap.
a very informative video. I've been seeing a lot of stuff around ASA as well and was wondering what your opinions on it are compared to ABS.
Great video. I just subscribed. I’m new to 3d printing and have my first printer on order. Couple questions. What material would withstand outdoors (sun, rain, snow etc. ) better? ABS or PETG? Also, my printer will be in the basement where it is about 60°F in wintertime. Is 60°F ambient temp. a problem for 3D printing. Any particular filament better suited for colder environments? Thanks.
ASA would be better than either; it is more like ABS, but specifically formulated for UV resistance. Low ambient temps are fine if you have an enclosure; turn on the heated bed for a little while before your print starts and the temps outside the enclosure won't make as much of a difference.
For functional parts I either use CF nylon or polycarbonate.
While I love printing CF Nylon (pa6 ht, source luvocom, filaments by Spectrum, innovatefil,treed - same material) it’s somewhat expensive and with properties not required for a lot of projects.
But heck, that thing prints like a dream on a straight glass, got my settings right on a first try.
Next time I will try ABS with kevlar. I print regular ABS/ASA. Polycarbonate, well, is quite hard to print and with prices getting to the level of CF Nylon while having properties not up to par with it, I rather choose PA CF.
just got my ABS in for my V0.1 build too, I personally went with a bin bag enclosure over my prusa mini+ but that hotbox does look intriguing
Just be careful that the bag does not get tangled in the printer! I have seen bags used before though as a makeshift enclosure and it should work fine.
FWIW ABS adheres extremely well to sanded PEI such as the smooth Prusa sheet. I use the gray Scotch Brite pads. Don't go coarser than 320 grit. You are looking to add a little 'tooth' to the surface.
You're not supposed to sand PEI beds...
@@alejandroperez5368 Try it, it's all the rage. :D The Voron Discord turned me on to it years ago.
I have watched a ton of videos learning what I can before I buy a printer. This is the first one that actually referred to actual research evidence. Well explained too, thank you very much. I need to do just about everything in abs ...... so looks like the ender 3 v2 neo will be sufficient if not perfect. Wish I had seen this first 😂.
Very good Info ! Thanks for posting this video Dan. Stay safe and Happy extruding !
Ron! I hope that you are doing well buddy. Thank you very much. Happy Extruding to you to :)
I got to print ABS recently. Same reason (VORON 2.4). What I can say additionaly. ABS from different manufacturers behave very different. I had no luck with the first one from Zortrax ABS+. The parts were warping with enclosure and a brim at 6mm (Prusa Slicer). Than I switched to ESUN normal ABS. Same settings and enclosure. No warping at all. I even switched to no brim. Still nothing. So my advice would be. Try different manufacturers before losing your mind on one.
Interesting. I tried with a roll of ASA and had no luck. Will try with ABS from another manufacturer.
@@alejandroperez5368 so I gathered a little bit more experience in the meantime. I can break it down in two pin points.
1. First layer height is essential. Get it right and you should have your filament sucking it self down on the PEI sheet (good sign for that is the point when your bottom looks smooth AF. NO seperate lines).
2. ABS doesn't like finger oils. So get something like Isopropanol or other high grade alcohol. CHECK if it doesn't degrade PEI!! I have a habit now to wipe before ever print.
That's all! Happy printing!
i am having problems with my nozzel clogging mid print. i have run a temp tower, flow test, retraction test and all seems ok. I am printing at 235 nozzel and 90 on the bed. it is pretty frustrating with the constant clogs and i could use some help to resolve this if you have any ideas.. Oh yeah the printer is a K1 max
Great video. Thanks for all the details on ABS. I feel a lot more confidence in trying it out.
Thank you very much! If you give it a go please let me know your experience :)
If using the Necermore carbon filter the carbon pellet need to be replaced at some point e.g. after specific few hour of print or not?
Great content as always! Did you print or buy your fan with light set up on the hotend?
I hope that you will publish a detailed video about the Voron build including all the mods you have chosen. 😁
That is the plan. Since I will not be doing a step by step I would love to do like an overview/recap where I talk about the good and bad about the build and my experience so I can share any feedback I think may be useful
@@ModBotArmy This sounds great. I will be with you I promise 😁
I think a step by step video is not required, the Voron documentation is quite good. If you mention the problems you had and the reasons why you have taken mods this would be most helpful. //R
I love my Biqu B1, it's one of the only printers I use anymore. I really would like to see how their the one they have that has true bed leveling.
I'm in az and I print abs in my garage in the open air since the garage is soooo hot! I had to put extra fans on the electronics to keep them cooler though 😎
Haha I want to say must be nice to not need an enclosure but I am not sure if that is appropriate because ABS may be happy but what about yourself?! We have been looking to move to AZ for a while and Phoenix area is HOT
@@ModBotArmy "but it's a dry heat!" 😆 100 in PHX is more enjoyable than 90 in humid VA…
Arizona has been nice! The weather is hot but other than summer it's in nice weather! I'm going to be insulation the garage door and putting in a mini split ac system soon. The cost of living is low as well so it's nice!
I'm also in chandler which is apart of Phoenix. Chandler, phoenix, and Ahwatukee in Phoenix are the nicer cities to live.
Thank you, I've thought about these very items, and this is a great help.
Awesome, I am very happy to hear :)
I don't understand why every person I've heard talk about using hairspray as an adhesion promoter always mentions aquanet and refers to cans containing CFCs or whatever... I use a cheap pump bottle of suave which is easy to control to eliminate over spray and is less harmful to the environment. I like it because for almost all the filaments I've used stick well with it and self release when cooled.
No idea the origin but Aquanet has almost always been a staple in the 3d printing space for adhesion. I cannot remember a time people were not swearing by it.
Is ABS good use for an FLSUN-400?
I hooped on the PETG bandwagon but found that a major drawback for me was the brittleness so switched over to ABS for my quadcopter parts
PETG, brittle? No man, you got it mixed up. You can bend PETG filament and it won't snap as PLA or ABS will.
@@alejandroperez5368 In that sense yes but it has very poor shock characteristics. Print a PETG block and throw it on the ground. It will shatter in to smaller pieces
Glad you did this, I hate PETG. Thanks!
haha I like PET-G! But I think ABS is great as well.
Still love that smile at the intro. Great vid as always. I know this is an ABS vid but, I only have ever printed in PLA and I finally bought my first roll of PETG to try because of your channel. I make a lot of "functional" parts and PLA has been great but I really do need stronger prints.
PLA is stronger (tensile strength) than most other materials, the problem with it is that it warps under pressure and has low heat tolerance. As an example I printed a clamp style headphone holder for my heavy Astro headphones and it kept warping from the constant weight. I printed it in PETG and due to the flexibility it doesn't warp permanently under pressure like PLA.
PLA isn't the most widely used filament only because it's easy to print, it's a great material with a lot of good properties
With that said I print as much if not more PETG because it's easy to sand, it's flexible, and has a higher glass transition temperature.
@@timmturner I totally agree
Haha I am happy that you like the intro :)! PET-G is great and PLA can totally be used for functional parts as well. As mentioned below main disadvantages is low heat resistance and (this may be a plus for some) but it is super stiff so it has pretty poor impact resistance compared to PETG.
What project are you working on?? Post photos in the discord :)
@@ModBotArmy Hey so printed a Benchy for the very first time on my old Ender 3 Pro and it came out GREAT!
Perhaps I missed it but what hot end shroud is that with the lighting in the video?
foam boards from the dollar store make great enclosures an cheap. an u can also use them to make rc planes. 3d print u up some corner brackets an u can have a enclosure with a hinged door pretty easy with just 5 sheets. cant use them on bigger delta printers like a flsun qq-s but they work well to build doors for the delta.
Totally! I know quite a few people that have used cheap foam for their enclosures and have had great results :)
Noob question - as I'm researching building a voron as well - why not print with PC for the printable parts? It can withstand higher temps.
Smooth PEI and clean it with Steel wool now and then!
Can you do a deeper dive on prusa slicer on M1 Macs. I’m currently running cura and I believe it’s still running through rosetta. I’ll get the odd crash or text field that doesn’t look right.
Cura doesn't slice stuff very well prusa slicer is the best ...10 X better prints
I can't wait to see your voron 0.1 build! I would love to learn about your experience since I am planning to do the same soon but there's some drawbacks that stop regular people from doing so. We need your expertise regarding this particular Voron community. Thanks for your opinion and reviews!
Thank you for the very kind comment. I for at least the 0.1 will not be doing a step by step or live stream but I will be making various videos on it and will do my best to compile what difficulties I ran into and sort of my overall thoughts for someone that may be wanting to do this. I feel like not having an engineering background makes many feel they can relate which is awesome. I will definitely do my best :D
please go over that nevermore micro filter for the V0.1 i am fixing to start building the same printer and would like to install that mod
I will do my best. I know I will not be live streaming the build due to space/time constraints but I do plan on making a video on parts used and can do my best to cover or at least go over the NeverMore :)
@@ModBotArmy If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me on discord (0ndsk4#5933). There is a newer version that doesn’t require those odd size magnets for instance.
Great video. 👍
Thank you :)
Going with ASA over ABS these days seems to be the strat. Very similar properties, but far less odor, and less prone to warping, or so I hear. I do believe my Voron - or maybe Ratrig, not sure - will have CF-ASA parts, ie carbon fiber infused ASA.
Hi! Don't use CF infused parts for the mechanically stressed Voron parts. Regular ABS has some flex, the CF filaments are more crack prone under load. Check the Voron discord for examples. Cheers!
Nice tut lots of thanks :)
Absolutely :)
Talk more about that carbon filter thing
Thanks man!
4:20 I don't think PETG has better impact resistance than ABS. CNC kitchen's tests seem to indicate that PETG isn't all that impact resistant while PCTG (a special variant of PETG) has comparable but not better impact resistance than ABS. th-cam.com/video/-FtnXYDi7z0/w-d-xo.html
hey @ModBot, think you could do a review on PLA-F ? its supposedly got characteristics like ABS and PLA but is it really just PLA that acts like ABS ? or is it actually ABS ?
Subbed. Great info!
Thank you for the sub!
Did you have any issues with shrinkage?
Question for you ModBot. I'm using Overature Orange PETG filament and so far on a benchy I can get it to stick to the bed and print up to the deck, then the thinner walls start to fail. Layers don't stick to each other and it seems there is under extrusion. Overature was nice enough to give me a full refund as I tried all their tricks and so far this is the best I have gotten. I'm wondering if it's just a bad roll and yes it's been like this since taking it out of the package. It's been stored back in the sealed package with silci packets. Guess I'll get another roll of PETF from another company to see if that was the issue or not. I need higher temp filament for prints I plan to put in my vehicle. Thanks!
Hey so it is really hard to diagnose without visuals like photos or videos. It is entirely possibly it is a bad spool which I would not rule out. Since you got a refund it could not heard to try a different brand and see if your results are the same. PETG adhesion I either use PEI, or glass with a bit of glue stick and it usually works quite well. If it is repeatable with the other spool and is under-extruding I would try raising temp, a cold pull (if you want), or just swap the nozzle as they are cheap to make sure there is no gunk in the hotend.
I find the pure ABS is really good if you can print it. The modified ones have fairly poor layer adhesion in comparison. I personally prefer ABS over PETG or PLA as ABS doesnt creep anywhere near as much. But it does require a decent enclosure and it also stinks.
Ive tried various ABS+ blends and none of them are really as good as pure ABS, even the popular brands.
Please also make a PETG and ASA video
ASA I did some months ago. PET-G I can add to my list :)
I have 9 printers in 1 room printing ABS on Ultrabase, each printer feeds of the others heat. Seems to work fine...
Very timely. I decided to try printing ABS for the first time this weekend and your advice was spot on. My calibration prints all looked really good including the retraction test which didn't have a wisp of a string. Is low/no stringing typical for ABS or did I get lucky and land in the retraction sweet spot for this Hatchbox material? Hopefully it does as well on a larger practical print. It does smell a bit like what I imagine a melted lego would smell like when I open the enclosure to retrieve the print but fortunately it's out in the garage. Thanks again for the excellent content.
It is normal for ABS. Some blends like esun ABS+ can string a little though
Awesome to hear! And yeah it is pretty great as far as not being very stringy. That is one of my biggest annoyances with PET-G. Overall, other than fumes it is great stuff. Thank you for watching and good luck on your project.
Glad to see you've finally gotten on the Voron bandwagon! 👍
The bug is contagious :) It just checked so many boxes for me.
Thank you
Is it possible to use pla and petg for dual printing where core part is petg and outer layer is pla
Blending filaments can be tricky. I have limited experience and always recommend things like dove tails to help hold them together. Would love to explore the combining of filaments more.
I built a v0.0 and have had all kinds of problems with curling on my prints. Your top hat parts look fantastic, but my overhangs are crap! Did you experience any curling on overhangs that you addressed?
What printer did you print the parts on that you had a lot of issues? I did not have issues with overhangs unless I was just printing one small part and the layer had no time to harden., On a few Voron parts I had to print multiple of the same thing to give each layer enough time to cool down.
@@ModBotArmy I printed the tophat parts on a Prusa MK3S (enclosed, modified with a Hemera, using a couple of different cooling ducts). I also have the problem on my v0. Last night I printed the test parts from the v2.4 repo (various threaded parts, the calibration cube) and some of the horizontal threads have curled up a bit. Layer time was about 1m, fan was off (but my tophat parts still had poor overhangs with 100% fan).
First, really good information. Second , I always though tit funny when you needed a 3D printer to build a 3D printer. For those that don't have a 3D printer it does get a little frustrating. Granted there are some companies that sell Voron 3D printed parts.
Thank you 🙏
Absolutely!
How is effecting 90 degree hot bed to magnetic sticker that's my only concern
I know I have heard of some printers having issues with demagnetizing at various temps but I have not experienced that issue with WhamBam or this B1 at least yet.
what do you think is the best FDM printer out today
Best for what? Precision? Speed? Color? Cost? The answers are pretty 'depends on,' right now.
I hate PETG and LOVE ABS. I have such an easier time getting great print quality with ABS. It has a way higher glass transition temperature which I need for functional parts, and warping is almost a non issue on pretty large parts with a simple heated enclosure and a powder-coated bed.
I always enjoy your content which is precise and up to the point. I'm quite new in 3D printing and so I wonder... How come you (still) recommend ABS instead ASA? ASA is supposed to have many advantages over ABS: even better temperature stability, much higher UV resistance, more forgiving in printing (i.e. less warping), etc. So, except it's (just) slightly more expensive, it seems to be overall better choice than ABS.
Because of those reasons, I decided to use ASA for my "special" applications (where ABS/ASA characteristics are needed). I mean, why would I use 2nd best? Am I not seeing something and is thus my way of thinking wrong?
I agree ASA is superior. Biggest issue is price but if you're patient, you can snag 1KG spools on Amazon for less than $30. Second issue I've noticed is that you have to print ASA much hotter (ie 255-260) for the quality everyone brags about. A lot of people don't have printers that get that hot unfortunately
@@3dPrintingMillennial At store where I'm buying I can get various brands starting from 25€ (vs 20€ for ASA) -even prices in Europe tend to be higher than in US. But yes, I can understand that price difference can be deciding factor.
As for printing temperatures, I think all ABS capable printer (bed temp 90+C) can also reach 260+C on hotend -could be I'm wrong on that.
@@BH-ModernTimes lucky you! Cheapest on Amazon at the moment is $29.99
Hey! No so you are totally right I would choose ASA over ABS. Near identical properties but ASA is superior in a few ways. I did make a video on ASA and spoke highly of it. Currently price and color are the biggest factors. I can get ABS under 20 dollars a roll no problem while ASA can be double of that. Also ASA doesnt seem to come in nearly as many colors yet. I would love to see ASA prices drop and more selection. At that point I would gladly use it completely over ABS.
@@ModBotArmy Thank you for replying. Just so it doesn't look like I'm bragging about prices, here's where I buy:
www.3djake.com/3d-printer-filaments/asa-filament?&f%5B39%5D=77
I'm not an affiliate with that sore (is only about info). And of course prices depend on brand.. but one doesn't need to choose the most expensive to get decent prints.
Wish you great time... and continue with good content :-)
👍🏻 I’m building a voron 0.1 too～
They are so damn cute haha and so fast!
Your milage may vary...
In my case, I have CF-ABS from Atomic. I print it at 270C/100C and it requires a minimum of 10% fan. Also no enclosure.
N🧊 video.
Thank you
I go for ASA in place of ABS, no smell, sands well etc.