Klipper Pre-Flight Checklist - Don't Forget These Steps!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2021
- Please note this video is meant as a checklist with tips vs a full instructional video, as such while I will be touching on each topic, PLEASE read the documentation as this video is meant as a supplement to them
IMPORTANT LINKS
Klipper Config Checks github.com/KevinOConnor/klipp...
Klipper Input Shaper www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
Klipper Pressure Advance github.com/KevinOConnor/klipp...
Voron Printer Specific Setup Notes docs.vorondesign.com/build/st...
My videos on Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
• MAX OUT ACCELERATION -...
• Klipper Pressure Advan...
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You knocked it out of the park on this one! Well done!! These are the kind of videos I was looking for last year when I first started building Vorons!
Exceptional distinction between hardware tuning and software tuning for an initial setup of a Voron. Thanks for all the greatly informative content; I truly belive you are the reason so many have found success building, tuning, programming, and using their Voron printers, regardless of version or style.
Who the heck would give a thumb down on something like this?!?!?! Very good video Nero. Keep them coming man you doing a great job
They probably heard him say "axises". hahahaha
Thanks for making a separate video on the topic!
Great Video! Currently Building my first Voron, a 2.4 250 Build, and can hardly wait to put it into operation later, when i am finish with building
Best video I ever saw in TH-cam about 3d printers.
I was almost buying the bambu but after seeing your channel decided to build the trident.
Your videos are enlighten the way to the success with this amazing printers.
Wow, your videos are good. I spent the last evenings converting my printer to Klipper in order to enable input shaping and pressure advance features. Thanks to you I should say. Thanks for making this kind of content. Super informative!
very informative and I'm glad you called out all the wives tales on E-steps/rotation/flow
I think you need a shirt that says "If ______, you're gonna have a bad time!"
Fantastic king! Just what I needed!
Tons of great info! Thank you!
Super helpful for getting my trident going. Thanks!
Perfect timing 👌
Amazingly helpful, thank you :)
This is great, I will be following this guide on my diy corexy printer.
Thanks Nero, you are the best.
Thanks for the clear instructions!!!! (Of course input shaper should be first before pressure advanced. But you had to point out out like this to ring the bell for me ;-) )
Excellent video massive thanks
@13:56 you said "do do" 😂
Great content! Much appreciated
Thanks so much for making these videos to help us through the setup. You make the process so much easier to follow.
I have a question on the PID tuning, how do you set your fans to be at a specific percentage? At around 6:52 you say to turn part fan on high, and at 7:02 you say you PID tune with your fan on 20% speed. I googled for a parameter for PID_CALIBRATE but didn't see anything.
Great info
Great video! Please consider marking sections tho!
Your videos are great. Have you tried to use one raspberry pi running klipper and fluid to connect to 2 machines. And if so were you able to configure the accelerometer for each machine? With limited availability for Pi's I've been pondering trying this setup but have not had a chance to yet.
Great Video, thanks for that. You did say that for dimensional accuracy to tune the rotation distance for XYZ is not the right way… which is the right way to have things so accurate as possible? Thanks!
The Ellis Tuning Guide has a thing that generates a gcode for tuning pressure advance which is nice.
Thank you
great video! a thing that tripped me up, and still not 100% confident with, would be what "disable acceleration control" actually means and which slicers have what settings to get around it. a crash course in what that means in cura and or many other slicers would be a great companion video e.g., if minimum layer time, first layer speeds, wall speeds etc come into play. i think you have covered a lot in your v0 and other build videos and i think it would be a nice addition. also curious what matters and what doesn't
In most slicers you have the option of setting acceleration for things like outer walls, infil, travel etc
You want to disable those so firmware is controlling the accels
I am using this video as a reference for my setup but and as usual you video is very informative i am now trying to set up a Trident at the moment and can't find details about height of z probe. Should the probe be level with the bed or slightly above bed.
Would love to see a video about your favorite slicer, and why, then maybe some initial slicer calibration tips. Maybe nothing too in depth, but some of your first, and most important, calibration steps. :)
I say in Tom's most recent stream you recommend him to use super slicer over prusa slicer. Perhaps a video on super slicer (if you are familiar with it) would be great. There are very few videos about superslicer on YT. :)
Super slicer is basically a tweaked version of prusa slicer with some different default values and adjustments to the way it slices objects, it also has the training wheels off and it off MANY more options for tuning and adjusting settings
@@CanuckCreator do you use it? I like prusa slicer, and I downloaded superslicer, but it was a little confusing to me. I don't like cure because I feel like there to too many options (which is good for the advanced/pro users) but was too much for me, even with the hundreds of tutorials online (I watched a few) I was still kinda lost.
If you use superslicer, it would be nice to have a tutorial, if not no worries. :)
Either way, a calibration video for slicer settings, would be nice to see. :)
@@brandoneich2412 Ive been using SuperSlicer for a bit now, i may show it off a bit on stream but im still pretty new at it so doing a full video on it would be awhile away
@@CanuckCreator We REALLY need a DEEP dive into SuperSlicer from you Nero, the good, the bad, this is cool, the, OH no way in h3ll, this suc*s balls, ... you get my drift. ... The work-arounds???? .... I may be wrong here, but, I believe SupertSlicer has the potential to be the " You are MY Bit*h, and, will do as I say, NOT, as you think I mean" slicer. ... Anyway, ... Great vid, as allways, LIKED, keep up the great work. .... See ya on the Sat stream.................................................
Fantastic video, it really helped after migrating to klipper
Ah man idk what to do... I really love my Duet board and the interface, it safed my whole 3d print enthusiasm because my printer was nearly not usable at stock (geeetech A30).
But input smoothing is really a big deal, especially because of the big print bed and my new direct drive setup... Is it easy to switch back if it's not perfect for my use case? Like doing a backup of my Duet files and reinstall it?
I have a raspberry pi 3 lying around, and I'm thinking of trying it
19:05 I think you mean pressure advance value?
Where can I find the stl for the air filter cover/blank plate. Or is it a hidden update in the works. Your videos have helped me a bunch. Even the Mrs knew the answer to the giveaway question the other day. Tosti Boi
Its just a quick hack of the stock one to fill in the grill and add an angled 4mm hole
I'm getting ready to start my Voron 2.4 build and am going thru all your videos in preparation. I am going with a BTT Ocotpus mainboard. Can you please tell me what the web interface software you are using to configure Klipper? Is that Mainsail? I ask because I am an Octoprint guy but the interface seems much more intuitive for configuration and live testing.
Thank you
Im using fluidd
I like this beardless humble version of you more than the current one... :(
But i like the beard
I picked up a generic ADXL345 for input shaping. I noticed in your input shaper video you wired the 3.3v pin to 5v. Is this ok? I like how you consolidated the wires into a 2x4 DuPont terminal. I'd like to do this too for simplicity but want to make sure 5v in the 3.3v pin is safe.
It can handle 5v just fine and the 2x4 arrangement is now the "proper" way to do it according to the guide www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html
@@CanuckCreator Awesome. Thanks!
How do you test end stops if you are using soft end stops?
I have a quick question that doesn't seem to be covered in any of the documentation; what do I do if my printer doesn't have physical endstops, but instead moves the bed/extruder to certain points and stops when it gets electrical feedback? Printer is SV06
That's just sensorless homing with is a common setup nowadays
When I perform a stepper buzz for the x axis on my Voron 2.4, both the x and y axis move. Same thing if I buzz the y axis. How can I correct this?
Just ordered all the parts for a 1.8 and am half way through printing the parts, now i''m worried that this is going to be more than i'm capable of putting together. Klipper seems quite complicated.!
The build is fully documented with the manual and ive streamed the whole thing if you have problems.
While klipper can seem a bit daunting. The vast majority of setting things up is just copy and pasting/adjusting a few numbers.
The stock config for a v1.8 is pretty much good to go except for the things i covered
@@CanuckCreator Thank you, that's reassuring, i will go back through your build. The Voron printers look amazing and after watching Tom's 2.4 build i decided a 1.8 would be a better choice for my level of experience. Thanks for replying to my comment.
is Klipper reversable so if i remove my raspberry pi from my printer can i user the printers stock os anymore
You can reflash your MCU firmware to previous, if you change mind
You forget to mention to print a dingding as a first print... shame on you! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge to the world!!!
Love the vids but hate the music! 😂
Hi Nero I install klipper in to my mks robin nano v3. Everything seems all right but the homing doesn't works. The x and y moves are not in just in each directions and z doesn't home until reach the end stop. My printer is a ender 4 thats is H-bot, not a coreXY. This is the problem? How to correct this?
Id reference the ender4 config if there is one to ensure everything matches your config for the robin
So I do input shaper 1 and pressure advance 2nd.
yes
PLEASE HELP: I cant get past the stage where I was supposed to move the firmware.bin file over to my desktop. I only have a .hex file, I don't know how to proceed from here. My printer is an ANYCUBIC i3 Mega V1 (AVR/ATMEL Mega 2560).
Read the instructions in the example config on the klipper github for a mega2560 based controller. You flash it over usb
@@CanuckCreator Thank you, I ended up just buying a 32 bit SKR 2.0 and did it your way.
Oh initial print won’t go to center on v0.1
Remember the Code to disable the Stepper Motors is "M84" don't be like and forget to run that command :\
8:03 or just take your nozzle out
You measure the filament extruded from the input to the extruder so it doesn't matter if the hot end is on or off. Either 100mm went into the extruder when you asked it to or it didn't. If your extruder skips because it's not set up right or the hot end was cold then sure it will screw up the calibration but most people aren't that dumb. Set your hot end to the correct temp and do the calibration no need to take the printer apart.
Pressure from the hot end is irrelevant unless it causes the extruder to skip otherwise nothing will stop 100mm going through there's no other magic involved.
You are going to have a bad time.
Please stop wearing this apron. I can't help but it just looks silly
Why? Are you wearing hotpants for printer maintence?
Looks quite neat to me.
as a cook i have to love the operator-apron-look