Could you help I would like too now what the rev limiter sounds like is it like gun fire or dose it just kill the power like the stock unit if you could help that would be ace
@@gwizzfpv6741 I have not run any to the red line limit but I think it would be like the engine breaking down, cracking and poping. I suppose it may be like gunfire as you described. I do not think it just shuts off. Good question! Maybe others have a comment on this.
Hello Ralph. I really liked your video... very well explained, simple, and concise. I came here because I'm looking for a way to confirm if my Dyna 2000i is really broken, before buying another one. My 99 Sportster has had one mounted on it for 20 years, and now, after 200,000 KMS, the bike doesn't want to work. The starter works, but no current reaches the spark plugs, and the coil and the cables are good. I wonder if there is a way to know if the Dyna 2000i is working, just by starting it... while the engine turns but does not start. Should there be any change in the LED, for example, or is there any another way to confirm if it is broken? I didn't want to be spending money on it and then it wasn't the problem. 😕I am the one who usually carries out all the interventions on my motorcycle. Thank you very much in advance. I'm in Europe. Hugs. 🙏
Hello and thanks for the question. I do not know if you are running in the dual fire or single fire settings. In any case chek all of you grounds to make sure they are good. Make sure you have power to the coil. I think you could use a test light to check as well. Put one end on the 12V line and the other on the other side of the coil. (if you are single fire then one on the center terminal and the other end on one of the other terminals). When you turn the bike over the light should light up if there is signal from the ignition system. Below is some checks from Dyna concerning the red light etc. Verifying System Functionality with the LED The red LED can be used to determine if the ignition module is working. When power is turned on to the ignition, the LED should flash on for 1/4 second then turn off. If the pickup is near a firing point, the red LED will come on continuously. This "Flash period" indicates that the microprocessor is functioning in the DYNA 2000I ignition module. When the ignition power is on and the engine is cranked over, the red LED on the DYNA 2000I will blink on and off. This indicates that the DYNA 2000I pickup is generating timing. The pickup is designed such that the LED will come on at about 45 degrees before top dead center and go off at top dead center for each cylinder. This corresponds to the leading edge of the window in the rotating cup (45 BTDC), and the trailing edge (TDC). NOTE: If the red LED flashes rapidly with the engine not running, an over current fault is indicated. Check for proper coil resistance (2.5 to 3.5 ohms) and wiring. Turn the ignition off for one second, and back on to clear the fault. VOES LED Function The green VOES LED lights when the purple wire is grounded. When the engine is operated in normal mode with the VOES connected, the green LED will be on most of the time. The green LED will also be on when the Programming Adapter Is connected. Hope this helps! Thanks for the question, commenting and letting me know where you are from.
@itsmytimeletsgo what a fabulous explanation! This is without words for help given. ❤️ I have dual fire. Some of these things are done, but now I have to test how you taught me. I don't know exactly when I will be able to do it, but rather what I will achieve, tell you or result. A thousand thanks, from Portugal. 😉🙏
The are excellent for a kickstart bike, especially when they are single fire. Trying to keep up and keep em coming.Sometimes its hard when you do it all yourself. But I will keep trying. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
There is no advantage, to my knowledge it was just that this particular bike had the coil mounts for dual coils. The singlefire coil will work just as well. Thanks for the question.
I am not sure about that. You should contact the manufacture about it. I did hear somewhere that they could be programmed for kicker bikes, with a special add, on so maybe you can find out something. Contact Dynateck or maybe someone here knows more about it. Thanks for the question and commenting.
I have a 1999 fxstc with light brown goop coming from wire hole underneath riveted timing cover. Quick google search tells me the ignition will fail soon. I can’t seem to find oem replacement. Is this the fix for my problem? The motor is stock. Would this replacement configuration be dual fire? Do I also need a replacement coil or is there one to reuse? Thanks!
Brown goop is not good lol. Yes the Dyna 2000i would be a great choice for you. You can set it up in the "dual fire mode" and use your existing coil. If you do be sure to follow the "wiring instructions carefully", as it is totally different for dual fire vs single fire. Then if you want to run it as single fire, down the road, you can just add the single fire coil, configure the wiring for single fire, and throw the # 6 dip switch for single fire mode. If you go all the way , ignition and single fire coil, I can gaurantee you that you will be very happy with the performance. Thanks for the question. Hope this was of help. Thanks for commenting.
Wow, this is a great, straight forward video, thank you so much! I have a 1985 (Ironhead) Sportster with an older Dyna 2000P ignition installed when I bought it, and now a no spark issue. The battery, coil, plugs, wires, ignition switch have all been replaced so I'm thinking the module may be fried (the red LED light on the module does not flash when ignition is turned on). The Dyna 2000P ignition I have has an external module mounted to the frame with the lights and 5 advance curve switches on that module. There are no switches or LED lights in the nose cone where you adjust the advance. If I understand you correctly, the new 2000i ignition module in the nose cone will take the place of/bypass the frame mounted module I have? So if I purchase the new 2000i module, I can I discard the old frame mounted module? I appreciate any and all advice. Signed, an old tinkerer just trying to understand this new tech.
Thanks for the question. You are correct that you can throw the rest away and use the 2000i. You already should have the gold ignition cup, and pretty sure you would already be using a 3 ohms coil. So you should be good to go. You will Love it! they preform extremely well and easy to install. Good Luck !! Thanks for commenting.
Ok you hook up the white wire (from the Dyna) to the positive side of the coil, either terminal it doesn't matter but it will also have the 12v power wire hooked to it, (powered when the switch and the kill button is on).. ( some later models can have a single white/black wire for power) Attach the two together (12V wire and white wire) on "one terminal". Then attach the pink wire ( from the Dyna) to the other terminal. Tach connections(if you have one) attach the "Pink wire from the Tach" to the green wire in the Dyna harness. Do not hook the the 2000I Tach wire (Green wire)to the coil or damage may result! The purple wire can go to the VOES switch wire if you have one. The blue wire is left unconnected for dual fire system. It should be taped up and tucked back into the harness, as well as the Green wire if there is no Tach, and the Purple wire if there is no VOES switch. Look at #6 dip switch and it will need to be switched to OFF for dual fire . Good luck and thanks for the question and commenting. Hope this helps.
Good video. Had to replace a faulty Super Stock ignition in a new S&S 111 EVO. It had a silver pickup cup. For the 2000i be sure to use a Gold pickup cup, not silver. It’s in the instructions.
@@andrewmichael7889 It’s just me, but since it’s clearly in the instructions, (gold cup), I would at least call Dyna and ask the question. I’m very pleased with the 2000i performance with the V111 EVO. Frankly, I thought the SuperStock Ignition under-performed, although as mine failed just after break-in, it may have been bad all along. In any event, it’s no big deal to swap to the gold cup, eh?
Dual or single fire is 3 ohm for the Dyna electronic system. If you use the older Dyna type (using the mechanical weights in behind) then that would be a 5 ohm coil. Thanks for the question. Hope that helps you out. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for posting. I’m looking at picking up a 90 evo with dual plugs but the guy isn’t using all 4 plugs. I found this model dyna tek online but it has coils with 2 wires per coil. What changes? More wires? Their instructions are trash.
There are many different combinations to look for. The ignition system has a bearing on it as well 3 ohm (electronic like Dyna2000i) or 5 ohm like Dyna S. Single or dual fire as well. One pulg terminal is for Single fire, single plug, and two plug terminals are for Dual fire, dual plugs. 2 wires per coil is usually for single fire. One is a jumper between coils on the hot side, the other goes to the ignition signal for the front or rear coil respectivly. Do your research and make sure you are matching the right components together. You can always run it as normal with just a plug in the second hole. Here is a link that might help you identify some coils. (just type in in "bike type" anthing close, and it should give you choices and specs info) Good Luck! www.dynaonline.com/coils-kits Thanks for the question and commenting.
I can't find anywhere that describes why we cannot connect the dyantek wires directly to the existing deutsch connector under the bike instead of having to run the dynatek wires all the way up to the coil? I even called dynatek to ask and the guy on the phone didn't seem to know either. Mine is really simple as its a '99 sportster 1200C so there are only three wires needed from the dynatek unit, all of which are already located in the deutsch connector at the bottom of the bike.
I cannot say for sure either. If the connector is leading directly to the coil wires then I do not see why it wouldn't work. Good luck and do let us know how you make out. I am sure others would be interested in this as well. Great question ! Thanks for putting it out there. Always learning new things...
Glad you found it informative. They are not rocket science, like some would have you believe, but they just need to be installed right. Flip a few switchs and away you go. Dyna's are great ignition systems. Thanks for the commenting!
@itsmytimeletsgo it's nice 2 see someone take the time 2 give there wisdom and knowledge on those areas I have an old shovelhead I'm bringing back 2 life and didn't want 2 pester anyone I just need 2 get the lead out and get her running Thanks and keep doing videos Al
It is so nice to know that I am able to help some people along the way with their journey and their love of the old machines. Thanks for taking the time to comment.@@shovelheadpec
hello, great video btw im having a problem with my 2002 883 sporster it was running good and sudently died, it lost the spark completle took it to the garage and turns out the ignition module died, went on ebay and bought an used one. the bike worked great but just for a week, than it started failing when acelerating in low rpm and end up dying again completly loosing the spark. im thinking on installing one of these dyna 2000i hoping it will solve my problem. shine me a light please
I I think you could run one. I am not familiar with that EHC system but from what I can see in a quick check it is for controlling your electrics. Any Big Dog I have worked on here had a Dynatech or S&S type ignition in them. If your has such, in the nose cone, I do not see why you could not run the 2000i. But I am no expert...just going by past experience here. Remember the Dyna is wired directly to the coil, or coils. It is only fed 12 volts from the ignition on, and or kill switch. It does not affect anything else in the system. Power from your kill to the coil is usually a grey wire but could be anything on that bike or system. Thanks for visiting the channel. Let me know how you make out.
The only problem I had with that system is it’s not good if your bike is kick only. It’s has “dead strokes” programmed into it to protect the starter. The motor has to turn over 3 times before the plugs fire. I found this out the hard way trying to start my shovel.
I agree that the weighted systems are better for kick only bikes, because of their design. I have metnioned this in a few of my videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment about this.
Check the video out at 12:08 and you will see I do talk about the timing marks. Sometimes things can be missed if the whole video is not watched. Thanks for the question.
@@itsmytimeletsgo Thanks for the quick reply. I have been running the Dyna for at least 15 years. I thought you'd have shown tdc at the beginning of the video instead of the pop test at cylinder one. I stopped watching the video when you ran the wiring for the twin coils. Either way, it was my fault for not watching the video to the end. Great job of explaining how to install the Dyna.
What would be good to carry on my bike in the event of a system failure? I’m running stock dual fire on my 1999 Springer Softail and have spares including timing module.
Well thats a hard one. A set of points and weights would be about the only sure fire way to get home if need be, if you know how to set them up (you would need a tool to open the timing window plug as well.) Sound like you have things covered with spare parts though. I would ditch the stock system and upgrade to a Dyna to end your worries. Good luck. Thanks for the question.
Make sure the wiring is correct, to the coil, if its a new install. The LED should be lighting up on the Dyna unit when truning the motor over. If not its a problem with the ignition. Again check the wiring to the ignition and the coil. Check for power. Good luck. Thanks for commenting.
Hey man great video made me feel confident. Question though, would there be a way to get on a phone call with you and try to troubleshoot my 2000i. I’m having an issue with intermittent spark, after install it started and ran excellent for about 1 minute then died, now it won’t start again.
Hi you should double check all connection points, and make sure its wired up right. If it is a new unit, then I would be looking at the coil. They will break down as soon as they get warm. Did you have any issues before you installed it with your old system? If it is a used dyna I have seen the same thing happen with a bad unit. Could be a varity of things. When it quits you can put a test lead on the positive side of the coil to see if it still has power to the system as well. Check with key on and key off. Could be wiring issue there as well. You can contact me through my email that is posted on my channel. Thanks for the question.
I have a 1982 FXRS Shovelhead that came with this setup, timing was off so I went to readjust it and for whatever reason the red status light just stays on no matter how much I rotate the ignition. Would you have any advice on this? Thanks
Hello You can try rotating the motor a bit and see if it goes out. You might just be in the "Flash Period" or near the firing timing point. Dyna states the following: The red LED can be used to determine if the ignition module is working. When power is turned on to the ignition, the LED should flash on for 1/4 second then turn off. If the pickup is near a firing point, the red LED will come on continuously. This "Flash period"indicates that the microprocessor is functioning in the DYNA 2000I ignition module. The pickup is designed such that the LED will come on at about 45 degrees before top dead center and go off at top dead center for each cylinder. This corresponds to the leading edge of the window in the rotating cup (45 BTDC), and the trailing edge (TDC). If it still continues to stay on then I would think it might be a problem with the Dyna itself. Good luck and thanks for the question.
@@itsmytimeletsgo Thanks for your help! Figured it out, my bike has different timing marks than I thought it did so I was trying to adjust it to the advance point on the flywheel instead of TDC. Harley changed em around for the early to mid 80’s shovels. Got it all buttoned up now
@@torturedbykarma Glad I could help and glad you got it figured out. Yes the timing marks did change and it is something that often trips guys up. Thanks for letting me know how you made out.
@@superwin190 I gave the part number in the video ( at 1:20) 32402-83 and that is the one that is needed. Usually they are gold and the number is stamped right on them. You can check the part number they gave you for it. If it is 32401-80 it is for the early 80 to 83 ignition systems and will not work, and usually does not have the part number stamped on it. Hope this helps and good luck.
Can you do this with the Twin Power Ignition Coil For Harley Sportster 1200S 1998-2003 Part #10066584 on “RevZilla” or would I need to get another coil pack to run this rev limiter
Not sure there but it would depend on the year, and model, of you Sporster. The Sporster S is different than other models, connections are different, so check your coil attachment points to see if its wired or plug in type. Thanks for the question.
@@itsmytimeletsgo ok Thanks ...my bike an 2000 1200 Sportster .I dont have an Gold cup so my need to order one but my old Duel fire coils test good so trying to keep it ....But ignition Module going bad bike runs for 5 min to 30 mins & just dies & getting worst ... leaving me stranded till maybe 5 mins to 60 mins later & it re fire so I have an new programmable Ignition going in today as I speak Thanks again
I am sure you will like the new system. Be sure to follow instructions for 2000 sporster, seems to me you hook us 3 wires specifically for those. There is a great video at th-cam.com/video/WzoIw39c9Kc/w-d-xo.html that you may find helpful as well for your model. Thanks for commenting.@@jmead6121
I like the single fire systems, although they are not so good for a kick start bike mainly electric start. To hard to kick start. I stick to the Dyna "S" for kickers. Thanks for comenting.
@@blacklimosmatter2023 I ran a 2000i in my S&S v96 and would highly recommend it. In fact, when I bought my S&S v111 for same bike, the new S&S Super Stock ignition failed right after break-in. I grabbed the 2000i off the shelf and it runs flawlessly. As OP said, watch your wiring closely. The Super Stock and 2000i wire colors are basically reversed, if I remember correctly. Ignition is so critical that I don’t memorize that stuff. Follow instructions every time!
Each to their own for what you like. Thats what keeps it interesting. The Dyna weight system type is better for older kickers I think. Thanks for commenting.
Not a shovelhead, bought the same unit for a 78 . I promise you it will not work on a shovelhead, you have to have them program it , otherwise nothing but a paper weight.
To bad you have had a bad experience with the Dyna. I prefer the Dyna "S" for shovels, especially kick start models, but I have installed the Dyna 2000i's in them with no problems, with electric start. Thanks for input and commenting.
One of the best ignition modules out there in my opinion
I agree! Thanks for commenting
Could you help I would like too now what the rev limiter sounds like is it like gun fire or dose it just kill the power like the stock unit if you could help that would be ace
@@gwizzfpv6741 I have not run any to the red line limit but I think it would be like the engine breaking down, cracking and poping. I suppose it may be like gunfire as you described. I do not think it just shuts off. Good question! Maybe others have a comment on this.
Ace many thanks
@@gwizzfpv6741 You are welcome.
Started installing this on our 78 tonight and came here for a good lesson. Thank you.
Hopefully the video will help you out a bit. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks very nice video,
FXR POWER SWEDEN😊
Glad you liked it and thanks for commenting.
Awesome video very helpful and educational. Thank you.😊
So glad you found it helpful! Thanks for commenting.
Great video Ralph, now we know what goes with what, thanks again. 😁
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
Hello Ralph.
I really liked your video... very well explained, simple, and concise. I came here because I'm looking for a way to confirm if my Dyna 2000i is really broken, before buying another one. My 99 Sportster has had one mounted on it for 20 years, and now, after 200,000 KMS, the bike doesn't want to work. The starter works, but no current reaches the spark plugs, and the coil and the cables are good. I wonder if there is a way to know if the Dyna 2000i is working, just by starting it... while the engine turns but does not start. Should there be any change in the LED, for example, or is there any another way to confirm if it is broken? I didn't want to be spending money on it and then it wasn't the problem. 😕I am the one who usually carries out all the interventions on my motorcycle. Thank you very much in advance. I'm in Europe. Hugs. 🙏
Hello and thanks for the question. I do not know if you are running in the dual fire or single fire settings. In any case chek all of you grounds to make sure they are good. Make sure you have power to the coil. I think you could use a test light to check as well. Put one end on the 12V line and the other on the other side of the coil. (if you are single fire then one on the center terminal and the other end on one of the other terminals). When you turn the bike over the light should light up if there is signal from the ignition system. Below is some checks from Dyna concerning the red light etc.
Verifying System Functionality with the LED
The red LED can be used to determine if the ignition module is working. When power is turned on to the ignition, the LED should
flash on for 1/4 second then turn off. If the pickup is near a firing point, the red LED will come on continuously. This "Flash period"
indicates that the microprocessor is functioning in the DYNA 2000I ignition module.
When the ignition power is on and the engine is cranked over, the red LED on the DYNA 2000I will blink on and off. This indicates
that the DYNA 2000I pickup is generating timing. The pickup is designed such that the LED will come on at about 45 degrees
before top dead center and go off at top dead center for each cylinder. This corresponds to the leading edge of the window in the
rotating cup (45 BTDC), and the trailing edge (TDC).
NOTE: If the red LED flashes rapidly with the engine not running, an over current fault is indicated. Check for proper coil
resistance (2.5 to 3.5 ohms) and wiring. Turn the ignition off for one second, and back on to clear the fault.
VOES LED Function
The green VOES LED lights when the purple wire is grounded. When the engine is operated in normal mode with the VOES
connected, the green LED will be on most of the time. The green LED will also be on when the Programming Adapter Is
connected.
Hope this helps! Thanks for the question, commenting and letting me know where you are from.
@itsmytimeletsgo what a fabulous explanation! This is without words for help given. ❤️
I have dual fire.
Some of these things are done, but now I have to test how you taught me. I don't know exactly when I will be able to do it, but rather what I will achieve, tell you or result.
A thousand thanks, from Portugal. 😉🙏
@@MhP163 You are more than welcome sir. I hope I was about to help you out with the info. Many thanks for your kind words.
Hell yeah. I needed to see this video. Keep up the awesome content
Glad to be of help. Thanks for great comment. Appreciated.
Keep those videos comin !!! One question how well do they work with a kickstart.
when set up correctly and fuel system right it makes a kick start bike very easy to live with ...
The are excellent for a kickstart bike, especially when they are single fire. Trying to keep up and keep em coming.Sometimes its hard when you do it all yourself. But I will keep trying. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
Yes I agree. The are great for kickstart bikes. Thanks for the comment.
Are there any benefits to running separate coils like you did instead of one mini coil
There is no advantage, to my knowledge it was just that this particular bike had the coil mounts for dual coils. The singlefire coil will work just as well. Thanks for the question.
Are these ignitions programable? That is, if none of the settings of the tiny switches works well for me, can a custom program be done on it?
I am not sure about that. You should contact the manufacture about it. I did hear somewhere that they could be programmed for kicker bikes, with a special add, on so maybe you can find out something. Contact Dynateck or maybe someone here knows more about it. Thanks for the question and commenting.
I have a 1999 fxstc with light brown goop coming from wire hole underneath riveted timing cover. Quick google search tells me the ignition will fail soon. I can’t seem to find oem replacement. Is this the fix for my problem? The motor is stock. Would this replacement configuration be dual fire? Do I also need a replacement coil or is there one to reuse? Thanks!
Brown goop is not good lol. Yes the Dyna 2000i would be a great choice for you. You can set it up in the "dual fire mode" and use your existing coil. If you do be sure to follow the "wiring instructions carefully", as it is totally different for dual fire vs single fire. Then if you want to run it as single fire, down the road, you can just add the single fire coil, configure the wiring for single fire, and throw the # 6 dip switch for single fire mode. If you go all the way , ignition and single fire coil, I can gaurantee you that you will be very happy with the performance. Thanks for the question. Hope this was of help. Thanks for commenting.
Good video and very informative ...
Thank you for the comment. Appreciated.
Wow, this is a great, straight forward video, thank you so much! I have a 1985 (Ironhead) Sportster with an older Dyna 2000P ignition installed when I bought it, and now a no spark issue. The battery, coil, plugs, wires, ignition switch have all been replaced so I'm thinking the module may be fried (the red LED light on the module does not flash when ignition is turned on). The Dyna 2000P ignition I have has an external module mounted to the frame with the lights and 5 advance curve switches on that module. There are no switches or LED lights in the nose cone where you adjust the advance. If I understand you correctly, the new 2000i ignition module in the nose cone will take the place of/bypass the frame mounted module I have? So if I purchase the new 2000i module, I can I discard the old frame mounted module? I appreciate any and all advice. Signed, an old tinkerer just trying to understand this new tech.
Thanks for the question. You are correct that you can throw the rest away and use the 2000i. You already should have the gold ignition cup, and pretty sure you would already be using a 3 ohms coil. So you should be good to go. You will Love it! they preform extremely well and easy to install. Good Luck !! Thanks for commenting.
Awesome video! Quick help. I have a dual fire | Coil system but it only has two terminals, not three. How should I wire this up?
Ok you hook up the white wire (from the Dyna) to the positive side of the coil, either terminal it doesn't matter but it will also have the 12v power wire hooked to it, (powered when the switch and the kill button is on).. ( some later models can have a single white/black wire for power) Attach the two together (12V wire and white wire) on "one terminal".
Then attach the pink wire ( from the Dyna) to the other terminal. Tach connections(if you have one) attach the "Pink wire from the Tach" to the green wire in the Dyna harness. Do not hook the the 2000I Tach wire (Green wire)to the coil or damage may result!
The purple wire can go to the VOES switch wire if you have one.
The blue wire is left unconnected for dual fire system. It should be taped up and tucked back into the harness, as well as the Green wire if there is no Tach, and the Purple wire if there is no VOES switch.
Look at #6 dip switch and it will need to be switched to OFF for dual fire . Good luck and thanks for the question and commenting. Hope this helps.
Amazing! Thanks for the help, I got her going 🤘🏼
@@santiagowashere2 Glad to hear that!! Happy I could help you out.
Good video. Had to replace a faulty Super Stock ignition in a new S&S 111 EVO. It had a silver pickup cup. For the 2000i be sure to use a Gold pickup cup, not silver. It’s in the instructions.
You are exactly right. Its a small mistake that many make. Thanks for commenting.
Hey just seeing this I did exactly this on my 88ci evo would this cause it to run like really bad
@@andrewmichael7889 It’s just me, but since it’s clearly in the instructions, (gold cup), I would at least call Dyna and ask the question. I’m very pleased with the 2000i performance with the V111 EVO. Frankly, I thought the SuperStock Ignition under-performed, although as mine failed just after break-in, it may have been bad all along. In any event, it’s no big deal to swap to the gold cup, eh?
Great video.... On a dual fire for a 89 evo, what ohm coil is needed... Is it 5 ohm or 3 ohm...?..
Dual or single fire is 3 ohm for the Dyna electronic system. If you use the older Dyna type (using the mechanical weights in behind) then that would be a 5 ohm coil. Thanks for the question. Hope that helps you out. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks.. Great video with technical know how.. Keep them coming..
Thanks for posting. I’m looking at picking up a 90 evo with dual plugs but the guy isn’t using all 4 plugs. I found this model dyna tek online but it has coils with 2 wires per coil. What changes? More wires? Their instructions are trash.
There are many different combinations to look for. The ignition system has a bearing on it as well 3 ohm (electronic like Dyna2000i) or 5 ohm like Dyna S. Single or dual fire as well. One pulg terminal is for Single fire, single plug, and two plug terminals are for Dual fire, dual plugs. 2 wires per coil is usually for single fire. One is a jumper between coils on the hot side, the other goes to the ignition signal for the front or rear coil respectivly. Do your research and make sure you are matching the right components together.
You can always run it as normal with just a plug in the second hole.
Here is a link that might help you identify some coils. (just type in in "bike type" anthing close, and it should give you choices and specs info) Good Luck!
www.dynaonline.com/coils-kits
Thanks for the question and commenting.
@@itsmytimeletsgo cheers bud
I can't find anywhere that describes why we cannot connect the dyantek wires directly to the existing deutsch connector under the bike instead of having to run the dynatek wires all the way up to the coil? I even called dynatek to ask and the guy on the phone didn't seem to know either. Mine is really simple as its a '99 sportster 1200C so there are only three wires needed from the dynatek unit, all of which are already located in the deutsch connector at the bottom of the bike.
I cannot say for sure either. If the connector is leading directly to the coil wires then I do not see why it wouldn't work. Good luck and do let us know how you make out. I am sure others would be interested in this as well. Great question ! Thanks for putting it out there. Always learning new things...
Confirmed, you can wire it into the existing OEM plug. (2002 Sportster, VOES retained)
Nice! I ended up just routing the dynatek all the way up and plugging the original connector under the bike.
@@BlueSkies1384 Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
@@Parker_Fuller Great info for others. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to comment on this.
Great 👍🏻 vid !
Glad you found it informative. They are not rocket science, like some would have you believe, but they just need to be installed right. Flip a few switchs and away you go. Dyna's are great ignition systems. Thanks for the commenting!
@itsmytimeletsgo it's nice 2 see someone take the time 2 give there wisdom and knowledge on those areas
I have an old shovelhead I'm bringing back 2 life and didn't want 2 pester anyone I just need 2 get the lead out and get her running
Thanks and keep doing videos
Al
It is so nice to know that I am able to help some people along the way with their journey and their love of the old machines. Thanks for taking the time to comment.@@shovelheadpec
hello, great video btw
im having a problem with my 2002 883 sporster
it was running good and sudently died, it lost the spark completle
took it to the garage and turns out the ignition module died, went on ebay and bought an used one. the bike worked great but just for a week, than it started failing when acelerating in low rpm and end up dying again completly loosing the spark.
im thinking on installing one of these dyna 2000i hoping it will solve my problem.
shine me a light please
You will enjoy the Dyna. Very reliable and esy to install. Thanks for commenting.
How do you put a Dyna 2000i on a 2004 Big Dog with an EHC New RIP system that I just installed?
I I think you could run one. I am not familiar with that EHC system but from what I can see in a quick check it is for controlling your electrics. Any Big Dog I have worked on here had a Dynatech or S&S type ignition in them. If your has such, in the nose cone, I do not see why you could not run the 2000i. But I am no expert...just going by past experience here. Remember the Dyna is wired directly to the coil, or coils. It is only fed 12 volts from the ignition on, and or kill switch. It does not affect anything else in the system. Power from your kill to the coil is usually a grey wire but could be anything on that bike or system. Thanks for visiting the channel. Let me know how you make out.
The only problem I had with that system is it’s not good if your bike is kick only. It’s has “dead strokes” programmed into it to protect the starter. The motor has to turn over 3 times before the plugs fire. I found this out the hard way trying to start my shovel.
I agree that the weighted systems are better for kick only bikes, because of their design. I have metnioned this in a few of my videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment about this.
Why didn't you pull out the timing plug and check the timing marks for TDC?
Check the video out at 12:08 and you will see I do talk about the timing marks. Sometimes things can be missed if the whole video is not watched. Thanks for the question.
@@itsmytimeletsgo Thanks for the quick reply. I have been running the Dyna for at least 15 years. I thought you'd have shown tdc at the beginning of the video instead of the pop test at cylinder one. I stopped watching the video when you ran the wiring for the twin coils. Either way, it was my fault for not watching the video to the end. Great job of explaining how to install the Dyna.
@@MrXYZ-uv4gj No problem. Thanks!
This video is perfect
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for commenting.
What would be good to carry on my bike in the event of a system failure? I’m running stock dual fire on my 1999 Springer Softail and have spares including timing module.
Well thats a hard one. A set of points and weights would be about the only sure fire way to get home if need be, if you know how to set them up (you would need a tool to open the timing window plug as well.) Sound like you have things covered with spare parts though. I would ditch the stock system and upgrade to a Dyna to end your worries. Good luck. Thanks for the question.
2004 having trouble, new stuff in tank, no spark on plug, ignition fuse no work, looks good
Make sure the wiring is correct, to the coil, if its a new install. The LED should be lighting up on the Dyna unit when truning the motor over. If not its a problem with the ignition. Again check the wiring to the ignition and the coil. Check for power. Good luck. Thanks for commenting.
Do you have to have an ignition cup for dual fire?
If you mean the 83 up gold cup, yes I have one here.
Hey man great video made me feel confident. Question though, would there be a way to get on a phone call with you and try to troubleshoot my 2000i. I’m having an issue with intermittent spark, after install it started and ran excellent for about 1 minute then died, now it won’t start again.
Hi you should double check all connection points, and make sure its wired up right. If it is a new unit, then I would be looking at the coil. They will break down as soon as they get warm. Did you have any issues before you installed it with your old system? If it is a used dyna I have seen the same thing happen with a bad unit. Could be a varity of things. When it quits you can put a test lead on the positive side of the coil to see if it still has power to the system as well. Check with key on and key off. Could be wiring issue there as well. You can contact me through my email that is posted on my channel. Thanks for the question.
I have a 1982 FXRS Shovelhead that came with this setup, timing was off so I went to readjust it and for whatever reason the red status light just stays on no matter how much I rotate the ignition. Would you have any advice on this? Thanks
Hello You can try rotating the motor a bit and see if it goes out. You might just be in the "Flash Period" or near the firing timing point. Dyna states the following:
The red LED can be used to determine if the ignition module is working. When power is turned on to the ignition, the LED should flash on for 1/4 second then turn off.
If the pickup is near a firing point, the red LED will come on continuously. This "Flash period"indicates that the microprocessor is functioning in the DYNA 2000I ignition module.
The pickup is designed such that the LED will come on at about 45 degrees
before top dead center and go off at top dead center for each cylinder. This corresponds to the leading edge of the window in the
rotating cup (45 BTDC), and the trailing edge (TDC).
If it still continues to stay on then I would think it might be a problem with the Dyna itself. Good luck and thanks for the question.
@@itsmytimeletsgo Thanks for your help! Figured it out, my bike has different timing marks than I thought it did so I was trying to adjust it to the advance point on the flywheel instead of TDC. Harley changed em around for the early to mid 80’s shovels. Got it all buttoned up now
@@torturedbykarma Glad I could help and glad you got it figured out. Yes the timing marks did change and it is something that often trips guys up. Thanks for letting me know how you made out.
Does the white wire get 12v switched or 12v constant
The white wire should be powered when the switch is on, not directly constant. Thanks for the question and commenting.
Very nice video. Why not run single fire mode?
Pretty sure I did exactly that. You might have missed it . You can check the video around the 8 minute mark. Thanks for commenting.
@@itsmytimeletsgo you're right, my fault, sorry.
@@tomconte1765 No problem and I appreciate the question. It may help someone else out. Thanks for commenting.
What color was the cup
It should be a gold cup that is needed. I think I gave the part number in the video. Thanks for the question and commenting.
@@itsmytimeletsgoI went to the part store it looks the same and has silver coating says 84-99
@@superwin190 I gave the part number in the video ( at 1:20) 32402-83 and that is the one that is needed. Usually they are gold and the number is stamped right on them. You can check the part number they gave you for it. If it is 32401-80 it is for the early 80 to 83 ignition systems and will not work, and usually does not have the part number stamped on it. Hope this helps and good luck.
Can you do this with the Twin Power Ignition Coil For Harley Sportster 1200S 1998-2003
Part #10066584 on “RevZilla” or would I need to get another coil pack to run this rev limiter
Not sure there but it would depend on the year, and model, of you Sporster. The Sporster S is different than other models, connections are different, so check your coil attachment points to see if its wired or plug in type. Thanks for the question.
Thanks for video ? if i may ask do i need an different cup to go from Duel fore to single fire coil .? . or are the cups the same Thanks in advance
The gold cup will work for either or .. it doesn't matter but has to be the 83 up GOLD CUP. Thanks for the question and commenting.
@@itsmytimeletsgo ok Thanks ...my bike an 2000 1200 Sportster .I dont have an Gold cup so my need to order one but my old Duel fire coils test good so trying to keep it ....But ignition Module going bad bike runs for 5 min to 30 mins & just dies & getting worst ... leaving me stranded till maybe 5 mins to 60 mins later & it re fire so I have an new programmable Ignition going in today as I speak Thanks again
I am sure you will like the new system. Be sure to follow instructions for 2000 sporster, seems to me you hook us 3 wires specifically for those. There is a great video at th-cam.com/video/WzoIw39c9Kc/w-d-xo.html that you may find helpful as well for your model. Thanks for commenting.@@jmead6121
@@itsmytimeletsgo Thanks
You are welcome!@@jmead6121
Good video, but I would like to have seen you take the stock parts out to begin the install.
Sorry about that. Hard to cover everything. Just trying show the install. Thanks for commenting.
No dynamic timing?
No never had to with this unit. Thanks for commenting.
Awesome.
Thanks so glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting.
A lot of guys say that they don't like single fire. What's your take?
I like the single fire systems, although they are not so good for a kick start bike mainly electric start. To hard to kick start. I stick to the Dyna "S" for kickers. Thanks for comenting.
Will this ignition be compatible with a S&S 96 evo?
Yes it would be a great addtion to that motor. I would use it in a heartbeat to make her get up and dance. Thanks for commenting.
@@itsmytimeletsgo is dyna module any better/different than ultima module?
@@blacklimosmatter2023 I have heard people say they are about the same. You just have to make a brand name choice.
@@blacklimosmatter2023 I ran a 2000i in my S&S v96 and would highly recommend it. In fact, when I bought my S&S v111 for same bike, the new S&S Super Stock ignition failed right after break-in. I grabbed the 2000i off the shelf and it runs flawlessly. As OP said, watch your wiring closely. The Super Stock and 2000i wire colors are basically reversed, if I remember correctly. Ignition is so critical that I don’t memorize that stuff. Follow instructions every time!
@@meandkathinkihei would you recomend a place to purchase it?
👍😎👍.
Thanks Jerry. Glad you enjoyed it!
I don't like. Not made for kick start... I use s&s single fire. Amazing 👍😉
Each to their own for what you like. Thats what keeps it interesting. The Dyna weight system type is better for older kickers I think. Thanks for commenting.
Favoloso video ben fatto e giusto nei passaggi....ti ringrazio caro amico Americano x il tuo tutorial....un grande saluto da Italia 🤗
Not a shovelhead, bought the same unit for a 78 . I promise you it will not work on a shovelhead, you have to have them program it , otherwise nothing but a paper weight.
To bad you have had a bad experience with the Dyna. I prefer the Dyna "S" for shovels, especially kick start models, but I have installed the Dyna 2000i's in them with no problems, with electric start. Thanks for input and commenting.