This is a great video. I understand this one better than any of the (maybe 7-10) others I've watched. You've really got the make it simple knack. Thank you so much for sharing 😁.
I'm running a 94 FLHR with a Super E. I had a bunch of motor work done recently, and now my bike is sputtering a bit at an even speed. That is to say, I'll be cruising along when the bike will "spit," and for a split-second, it's as if everything stops, and then it picks right back up again. Also, there is a slight delay between the time I twist the throttle and the bike responds. Prior to the motor work, my bike's response to the throttle was instantaneous. Since EVERYTHING else is essentially brand new, it stands to reason that the carb (which was untouched during the motor work) must be where my sputtering problem originates. I just stumbled across your channel, and I'd like to add my name to the list of appreciative viewers. I will disassemble, clean, reassemble and then fine-tune my carb using your advice. Thanks so much for your informative (and fluff-free) clips. I hope to jot a note back to say everything was successful. Thanks again!
Thanks for checking out the channel! I make a very deliberate effort to keep the “fluff” out so I appreciate you mentioning that specifically 🙏🏼 I think it could be the result of the carb having been tuned to the previous engine performance. Like you mentioned, a reset to factory settings and dialing back in from there sounds like the right approach, let me know what happens!
My 50 panhead searches, as in speed up and slow down, at at steady throttle. Its mostly noticeable at 25 to 35 in 3rd gear but does it alot when cruising. From everything i have read now its too lean under mid throttle.. I have rejettted it many times. It appears they had too big of a main jet so i went smaller. it starts better and dont flood. However searching or surging or slight bucking is still there. Now I believe the intermediate jet is too small. I;m going to try a 29.5 up from a 28 intermediate. This should solve the lean while cruising at a few thousand RPM.
WOW, I did know all this back in the 70s & 80s, when did it check out of my brain. I did rebuild and reset a quadrajet in the 90s. that is the last time I had fun with a carb. great videos, keep up the good work.
I would love to do these for all the most popular carbs out there, just don’t have any of those other carbs yet. If I can get my hands on them I will make it happen
Another great video, I have 1971 Shovelhead trike that came with a Super e fitted, it runs ok most of the time but when it’s idling it smells like the choke is on, don’t know if this is an enrichener fault or not. Thanks for your time.
Mine smells the same way, when it’s running it performs fine so I haven’t been motivated to change it. Just know you’re not the only one with that issue
Just in time .Got an E for my Shovel 1977.Also watched you other video on wiring . You cannot go wrong with all detailed explanations step by step. Thanks and excellent job
Rebuilt the carb for my 86 so frail for the first time. Set everything to factory specs by following your vid. I really appreciate the knowledge. I’m still having trouble idling, it’s a mich higher idle than it was before the rebuild. Is that normal? I’ve been making adjustments while the bike is running but without the air filter and cover because I can’t reach the idle speed screw with them on. How drastic will the difference be once I put the filter and cover back on? Thanks again!
That makes sense that it would be higher. Without the air filter and cover you’re getting a lot more air which would make the mixture lean. Leaner mixture would spike the idle. I would try with the air cleaner on before making any crazy changes. Put the air cleaner on, set the IDLE SPEED first. Once that’s set, turn your mix screw clockwise until the idle spikes up, note the location. Then count the turns (1/4 turn at a time) counterclockwise til it sputters and runs poorly. Set it smack dab in the middle of those two positions. From there you should be good to go!
Great question. I haven’t had any issues personally but I can’t say that I “recommend” you do it. I just didn’t have a support handy and needed to film the video then I ended up leaving it with no support after that
That’s great news! If the plugs are black the bike is running rich. But before you change anything, did you just idle it with the enricher on then check them? Or did you ride it? If you rode it and they’re black, you need to go down on your jets OR you can try leaning out that idle mix screw a bit first and see if that helps
@@greasesgarage I turned the fuel screw down 1/4 turn. I can't find the right setting for my recovery pump, GRRRRRR!!! I have a hole in the acceleration every 1/4 turn
If you have an S&S panhead motor 93 cube, what would you recommend for a main jet and an intermediate jet as you said a 72 main jet and a 29.5 intermediate jet is recommended for 883 and Sporty's and some big Vtwins? Would like to hear your comments?
Thanks for checking out the video! Just to clarify, those settings you mentioned were what I recommended for the 80” motor. I’ll drop the recommended starting points below 883: 26.5-28 pilot, 66 main 74/80”: 29.5 pilot, 72 main 96/107”: 31 pilot, 76 main 111/124”: 31 pilot, 78 main
Do you recommend running a velocity stack? Is it hard to adjust or anything negative which affects the bike running condition? Appreciate your kind feedback. I really like the looks of the velocity stack specially the one similar to yours and I wanna ditch that huge ass filter!!
The people at s&s say to never run a velocity stack on a street motorcycle because it’ll lower performance. I’ve not noticed any drop in performance on mine. I run a 72 main, 29.5 pilot and dial in my air mix screw by going halfway between where it stumbles from being too rich and idle speed ramps from being too lean. With that setup I think it’s great, but any “performance” guy will tell you don’t ever run them
hello my friend, Good morning, I just adjusted my shorty as you indicate in the video, can you tell me why when I accelerate suddenly, the motorcycle chokes? there would be a more pofiné adjustment?
Yes, you would want to make two adjustments now that you’ve got it set up. Your idle mix screw, turn it out til the bike revs high, note the position. Then (while counting 1/4 turns) turn it in til the bike begins to stumble. Set it exactly halfway between these two points. Next, set your accelerator pump. At idle, blip the throttle to check throttle response. Turn this screw in or out as needed for a smoother throttle response.
@@greasesgarage super !!!! je suis français, tu comprends notre langue ? thank you my friend I'll see if it's good and I'll get back to you Could the problem also come from the ignition?
@@richardgrognard6394 turn it all the way IN (clockwise) first. With the engine running, turn it out 1/4 turn at a time and blip the throttle to check response. Stop when the choke goes away
S&S would be the best people to contact on that as their website only lists recommendations for up to 124ci, which they list .031 for the intermediate and .078 for the main. You’d want to go up another size from those most likely
Really appreciate your time and support. When I ran the d shorty with,.094 main jet and.032 intermediate in 3 or 4th it would sometimes hesitate, not getting enough fuel thinking maybe I'll put .098 main jet and. 033 intermediate. The stock g carb maybe to small even if i upped the jets thank again
@greasesgarage will do ,I'll try and tune both carbs and I will let you know the ins and outs of my results it's snowing here in Calgary Alberta now so I can't take er out anytime soon ,maybe there something I can rig up in the garage, without going threw the wall
Of course! I never really had much of a mechanical background and ever since picking up my late buddies bike a couple years ago, I’m just trying to soak everything up best I could.
@@danebert9989 I hear ya man. I didn’t get a motorcycle til I was 24 and never worked on anything like that before. The goal for this channel is to make all the videos I wish I had when I was getting started. Hope they’ve been helpful for ya so far
You're going over the Jets. Main Jet(.072) and then the other one .0295 You are calling it a pilot jet that is incorrect on a S & S it's called a intermediate jet. I don't know if they call the low idle jet a pilot jet on other carburetors but not on S&S it's a intermediate jet. You never even mentioned the air bleed for the main jet. I noticed the one that you were messing with is the early model ones. I also have one on my Dyna. They made the air bleed only a .04 drilled hole for the air bleed for the main jet. The newer ones came out in 2004 with the air bleed hole drilled and tapped. They use the same main jets for the air bleed. Starting with .04 then if you need a larger jet usually increase .01 increments .04, .05,.06 larger the jet size for air bleed the slower the main jet comes in. Then you're setting all the screws and the first one you go to. You said set the idle screw. It is not the main idle screw it's fuel mixture screw. dead on on the accelerator pump then you went to the last one. You said again set the (Main)] idle screw which is correct. The second time you got it right. I noticed that you brought up the velocity stack S&S says right on there paper and settings for that carburetor. To never put a velocity stack on a street driven motorcycle. That you will experience poor throttle response! By no means was I trying to pee on your parade. I've been trying to tune my Dyna today. Like you and your velocity stack. I happen to like the sound of my unbaffled pipe that is my 2 into1 Vance & Hines header. I'm a drag racer! When you said Pilot jet at 1st I couldn't figure out what you were talking about. I had to go back and double-check my notes. Take care we all do learn alot from videos just like yours. That was the whole reason I was on here trying to see if I miss something. Thanks again L.J ✌️
Don’t get too hung up on the details, remember who this video is for. New people who haven’t messed with one of these carbs before. Can a new rider see what I’m doing and effectively perform the same tasks on their carb? I believe so. When someone tells me to put the choke on I don’t bother to remind them that S&S has a different name for it, because I know what they mean. In a more advanced video I will get into the air bleed and a deeper dive on tuning etc, I appreciate the reminder and you checking out the video. Thanks for the tips!
I understand where you’re coming from but when you’re making a “basics” video you can’t cover every nook and cranny on the entire carb. I plan to do an “advanced” video in the future which will include that type of content, stay tuned!
I have 5 S&S carbs...from B's to Super E's.....they are kool looking, but the truth be told, the Mikunis, VMs, the Harley CV carbs are great....S&S....like Crosby said..."meh"!
I bought a big dog bike it’s 18 years old but only has 2300 miles on it. Has sat for a while. Should I take out jets and clean? Check bowl ? I’m trying some sea foam first. Sputters when I try to give gas at higher speeds ..I’ve set screws as per your other video. Please help. Thanks. I’ve learned so much from you so fast !!!
Absolutely, pull that bowl off, clean out the carb completely and spray carb cleaner through both jets. Sea foam will help but nothing will replicate the full cleaning it’s worth it. Also check your air filter to be sure it isn’t gummed up and preventing airflow at higher speeds
After 35 years with cv carbs and triumph carbs this carb is not good. Tuned CB 550 carbs and cb 750carbs and other bikes too over the years. This just is an un-tunable turd
Trust me, I'm not happy about this. The Forums seem to have a lot of people that can't tune it either. But I won't give up yet maybe there is just something wrong with this one..
No diaphragm to crack or get pinched, main jet is changeable without removing bowl, extended screws available to make the carb adjustable by hand at a light, all the cool air cleaners are made for the S&S, throttle cable mounts externally unlike mikuni, and most importantly for new people…there’s a million videos out there if you don’t know how to do something on it. Plus with S&S being an American company it’s very easy to find their literature online, need jetting recommendations? Multiple guides on their website. These little things make all the difference when someone is new and trying to work on their carb for the first time
I couldn’t tell you the specific symptoms because I’ve never removed the o ring but I can tell you that if the o ring is missing you should replace it right away
@@greasesgarage I lost mine when I first got a super e and fought with tuning for weeks until I realized the o ring was gone. Now I keep a bag full of them 😂
Excellent video! I have a 97 Electra Glide that’s been cammed and has a Super E carb. I’m quite familiar with the stock carb, but I have never messed with a Super E. Simple as the Holly carb on my street rod. Thanks!
Hello friend, a couple of weeks ago, my carburetor (S&S Super E) started leaking gas through the overflow. I thought it might be the float needle or the float level, so I bought the repair kit, cleaned everything, and replaced it all. However, it still continues to drip. Do you know what it could be?
@@andrerenaud8424 yours must be an early 90’s model then, I believe it was either 93 or 94 (my model) when it went to a head breather. That’s a sort of emissions thing where it vents the motor back into the carb to burn off those emissions. You can route that hose to the ground
Mine yourself..Main Jet can also stick to the emulsion tube..This will defeat you trying to drop the Main Jet out thru the the Float Bowl Drain Plug..The emulsion tube will not fit thru the hole...Jus So You Know..Can't be done easily on the side of the road..Entire Float Bowl Must Be Removed..😩😩😩
I see what you’re saying. I’ve never had this happen in day to day life but I see how it could. If it does happen to you, your main jet is torqued down wayyy too tight
Bike runs horrible since I put on super e. After watching this video I realize that my bowl vent hole was covered up by my air cleaner. I removed the cap for the auxiliary vent hole, hoping that would solve my issue, and it seems to run worse. Went back to standard factory settings, and then set the carburetor as you instruct in your other video. I just can’t figure out why it is running so poorly. At very easy acceleration the bike runs OK, any amount of harder acceleration, and the motorcycle immediately bogs down like it’s being flooded out. I’ve pulled the plugs and it doesn’t seem to be running to rich or to lean, plugs look fine. Can’t figure it out. Any suggestions?
@@greasesgarage Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. Its a stock 80. If the cam matters it’s an EV 27, 9:5.1 pistons. Took it from fuel injection to an S&S carburetor. Put a Dynatech ignition in it. I live in Salt Lake City, so that’s about 4400 feet. Main jet is 74, intermediate jet 31. Runs normal until you give it any amount of gas and then just bogs down.
Intetesting and helpful info vid. I have an '03 sportster 883. Want to bore it out to 1200 but also replace the factory carb with the Super E. Is there anything I need to specifically look out for when buying the S&S for sportsters? Why is the enricher adjustment larger on your version than the usual one? Thank you.
Nothing specific you'd need to look out for on a sporty application beyond the jets of course. Sporty's will take smaller jets than what you see on mine for the Big Twins. As for the enricher adjustment, mine is an aftermarket knob from Speed Dealer Customs that came with the velocity stack. The reason you have to change this is because when you take off the stock teardrop air cleaner, the enricher lever comes off too, so it has to be replaced with a standalone enricher that isn't part of the air cleaner assembly. You can get these from a variety of different makers, this one just happened to come with the air cleaner I bought.
Hey grease I bought a velocity stack like the one you have on your bike from speed dealer when I put it on the carb with the three mounting screws there's a hole on the left side does that need to be plugged?
It does not. That hole is a vent. However if you were to change to an air cleaner that BLOCKS that vent, there’s a backup vent UNDER that one (vertically) which would need to be opened up
Lots of detail. Nicely done. Still had a question on the float height. There is a little spring built into the top of the needle valve - should you press down until the needle sets in the seat, or, continue pressing until you compress the spring in the top of the valve? Makes a fairly substantial difference in teh float height at the point where it is measured.
If in doubt I’d go with less pressure. The reason I say that is because what’s going to push on that float is the pressure of the gas filling up the bowl. I can’t imagine that fluid pressure coming anywhere close to what my finger could do if I was trying to force the float down. Try light first
Earlier models (pre 2004) have a machined .040 orifice for the main jet air bleed. Later models are set up to accept a main jet. That let's you move around in the rpm range where the main jet picks up. You can really take advantage of this if you know how to read all aspects of what a spark plug is telling you. There's a a of great videos out there about plug analysis. But I highly recommend Kevin Baxter "how to read spark plugs like a pro." it's a very in-depth, simple explanation of what's really going on in your combustion chamber.
Great video, new subscriber here. What elevation are you at? I just grabbed a 1973 shovel with a super E that was at 3800 ft elevation and will now live at 7000 ft, so I’m planning on re-jetting.
Great informative viddy as usual Grease thank you for all the effort you put into these videos you're teaching this old dog some new tricks 🤓One question for you were did you get that nice brass enricher knob? Thanks
Happy to hear it man! That knob comes with a velocity stack and breather bolts in a kit made by speed dealer customs. I got the whole kit on sale for $111 if I remember correctly
I live in Denver Co., what size main jet should I use for this elevation. It's on a S&S motor, just got the bike and don't know much about the S&S motors. We are at 5500 feet, that is an average elevation for the front range. The bike has a super G on it now, an American Iron Horse Outlaw 2002, with a 076 main jet, bike came from Vegas.
@@DannyKessels-h7o I would give the whole carb a full cleaning. Especially the float bowl and jets, check the float height as well. Everything you see in this video basically. From there, reassemble, warm up the bike, and set your air mix screw halfway between where it stumbles and where the idle speeds up. Then go for a ride and pull the plugs when you get home. If you don’t feel any bogging or hear any popping, and the plugs aren’t black…leave it the way it is
After watching this video I went for it with the 97 Evo. I pulled off the the bowl cleaned out the jets that were not bad adjusted the float a tiny bit replaced the o rings on the head breather got it back together ready to go. Now the 47 knuckle is up on the rack for its turn. Love your videos, keep them coming.
The brass nozzle with the 1/4 inch hex nut on it, the rebuild kit didn’t come with a new one. I notice there’s a notch on the very top. I thought maybe if it was plugged that’s why when I turned the throttle I had gas leaking from the boot from the accelerator rod. Sorry if I’m not clear enough, this is my first rebuild.
I noticed the main jet is spraying toward the front cylinder when I twist the throttle rather than spraying down the center. Maybe a indication it's partially clogged?
I thought I would post a update. The part I was calling a jet is the accelerator pump nozzle. Initially it was spraying to the front cylinder. I tried to clean it up but when I put it all back together it was spraying a stream instead of a nice fan. I found out that the tip comes off the rest of the shaft. I ran notebook paper through the slit and Seafoam. Nice fan spray now which will be easy to check by just removing the air cleaner in the future. I also didn't realize that you can test and adjust the spray pattern by just putting some fuel in the bowl and pressing down on the pump shaft before putting it back together and on the bike. For some of the smaller holes I used the small wire used on bread wrappers. I also found that the adjustment screws needed to be cleaned up so they move freely to facilitate adjustments. This isn't meant to detract from the video as I greatly benefited from it.
Anything in particular you’re looking to see? It’s just me running this channel and I’ve only got this big twin but I can do some episodes in other peoples garages to get the specific stuff you’re trying to see
I would start by setting it to the recommendations in this video and see what it’s doing from there. This is the baseline. If you’re popping after down shifting, your idle circuit is lean
@@travislohneis224 you would have to start by following the instructions in the video because I’m not able to know anything about your carbs settings unless you do
I have a 1340 Shovelhead, with drag pipes. What would you recommend the jet setting for that? Thank you for your video, been having a hell of a time trying to find a video about this subject.
This is a fair question. To S&S defense the stock filter and vent hole location are behind the filtration protection it’s only once you remove the factory filter that you’d need to use the aux port and ONLY if your aftermarket filter covers that standard vent hole. Most don’t cover that hole though so it’s rare you’d need to use it and no it’s not covered by the filter
@user-lr3di2gp7o if you take the stock filter off and use a filter that doesn’t cover that plug then yes. If your filter does protect that area, then no. It depends on what filter you use
@@greasesgarage in video you said that if filter covers vent hole you will have to open auxiliary vent hole from underneath. Doesn’t make any sense 🤨that auxiliary vent isn’t filter protected
Great video, made me check out your others also great. Do you recon you can do a tuning video for after you have done factory setting. My Evo is running far to fast even with the idle screw full out. 🫣🤷🏼♂️
This is a great video. I understand this one better than any of the (maybe 7-10) others I've watched. You've really got the make it simple knack. Thank you so much for sharing 😁.
It really means a lot to me to hear this, thank you 🙏🏼
I'm running a 94 FLHR with a Super E. I had a bunch of motor work done recently, and now my bike is sputtering a bit at an even speed. That is to say, I'll be cruising along when the bike will "spit," and for a split-second, it's as if everything stops, and then it picks right back up again. Also, there is a slight delay between the time I twist the throttle and the bike responds. Prior to the motor work, my bike's response to the throttle was instantaneous. Since EVERYTHING else is essentially brand new, it stands to reason that the carb (which was untouched during the motor work) must be where my sputtering problem originates. I just stumbled across your channel, and I'd like to add my name to the list of appreciative viewers. I will disassemble, clean, reassemble and then fine-tune my carb using your advice. Thanks so much for your informative (and fluff-free) clips. I hope to jot a note back to say everything was successful. Thanks again!
Thanks for checking out the channel! I make a very deliberate effort to keep the “fluff” out so I appreciate you mentioning that specifically 🙏🏼
I think it could be the result of the carb having been tuned to the previous engine performance. Like you mentioned, a reset to factory settings and dialing back in from there sounds like the right approach, let me know what happens!
My 50 panhead searches, as in speed up and slow down, at at steady throttle. Its mostly noticeable at 25 to 35 in 3rd gear but does it alot when cruising. From everything i have read now its too lean under mid throttle.. I have rejettted it many times. It appears they had too big of a main jet so i went smaller. it starts better and dont flood. However searching or surging or slight bucking is still there. Now I believe the intermediate jet is too small. I;m going to try a 29.5 up from a 28 intermediate. This should solve the lean while cruising at a few thousand RPM.
WOW, I did know all this back in the 70s & 80s, when did it check out of my brain. I did rebuild and reset a quadrajet in the 90s. that is the last time I had fun with a carb. great videos, keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Thank you so much for that auxiliary breather tip. I was fed up and ready to throw in the towel. You saved me a lot of time and money!
So happy to hear this man, glad I could help!
Very good instruction video gives a lot of confidence too do this myself, got 1973 shovelhead with the super E.
Glad to hear it man! It’s a very simple carb and a very easy place to get started, hope you will give it a shot
Good tutorial. Next you should do the Mikuni HSR series carb, for someone who wants to set it and forget it!
I would love to do these for all the most popular carbs out there, just don’t have any of those other carbs yet. If I can get my hands on them I will make it happen
What do you mean by set it & forget it? Does the s&s go out of tune over time?
Thank you for making this so simple to understand. Kudos on awesome videos!
Simple to understand is my goal for this whole channel so thank you for saying so, really appreciate you watching 🙏🏼
Another great video, I have 1971 Shovelhead trike that came with a Super e fitted, it runs ok most of the time but when it’s idling it smells like the choke is on, don’t know if this is an enrichener fault or not. Thanks for your time.
Mine smells the same way, when it’s running it performs fine so I haven’t been motivated to change it. Just know you’re not the only one with that issue
Great video my brother
Thanks brotha!
Great videos sir! I just got a 1992 softail heritage classic and am learning on ton from you
I appreciate that man, thanks for the kind words 🙏🏼
Just in time .Got an E for my Shovel 1977.Also watched you other video on wiring . You cannot go wrong with all detailed explanations step by step. Thanks and excellent job
Thanks for the comment man, means a lot to me to hear that it’s helping people. More to come!
Think you this video helped me a whole lot
Happy to hear that!
awesome video-Lefty (very clear instructions) thanks
Really appreciate you letting me know! Thank you for the message brotha🙏
@@greasesgarage no prob, keep up the good work. one of the better how to sites out there, God Bless - Lefty
Rebuilt the carb for my 86 so frail for the first time. Set everything to factory specs by following your vid. I really appreciate the knowledge. I’m still having trouble idling, it’s a mich higher idle than it was before the rebuild. Is that normal? I’ve been making adjustments while the bike is running but without the air filter and cover because I can’t reach the idle speed screw with them on. How drastic will the difference be once I put the filter and cover back on? Thanks again!
That makes sense that it would be higher. Without the air filter and cover you’re getting a lot more air which would make the mixture lean. Leaner mixture would spike the idle. I would try with the air cleaner on before making any crazy changes.
Put the air cleaner on, set the IDLE SPEED first. Once that’s set, turn your mix screw clockwise until the idle spikes up, note the location. Then count the turns (1/4 turn at a time) counterclockwise til it sputters and runs poorly.
Set it smack dab in the middle of those two positions.
From there you should be good to go!
Great video. The SS paperwork is blurry photo copy. You made it very clear.
Happy to hear it, thanks for watching 🙏🏼
Ever run into any issues not running a carb support bracket?
Great question. I haven’t had any issues personally but I can’t say that I “recommend” you do it. I just didn’t have a support handy and needed to film the video then I ended up leaving it with no support after that
hello my friend
I just started the bike with your advice on carburation
my two spark plugs are black what should I do on the carb?
That’s great news! If the plugs are black the bike is running rich. But before you change anything, did you just idle it with the enricher on then check them? Or did you ride it?
If you rode it and they’re black, you need to go down on your jets OR you can try leaning out that idle mix screw a bit first and see if that helps
@@greasesgarage I turned the fuel screw down 1/4 turn.
I can't find the right setting for my recovery pump, GRRRRRR!!! I have a hole in the acceleration every 1/4 turn
@@greasesgarage I cleaned the candles afterwards I will try
Very good thanks you so much Lemay Nelson vancouver washington pacific Coast
If you have an S&S panhead motor 93 cube, what would you recommend for a main jet and an intermediate jet as you said a 72 main jet and a 29.5 intermediate jet is recommended for 883 and Sporty's and some big Vtwins? Would like to hear your comments?
Thanks for checking out the video! Just to clarify, those settings you mentioned were what I recommended for the 80” motor. I’ll drop the recommended starting points below
883: 26.5-28 pilot, 66 main
74/80”: 29.5 pilot, 72 main
96/107”: 31 pilot, 76 main
111/124”: 31 pilot, 78 main
@@greasesgarage Do you think an 88 inch would be 30 and 74? As mine is bogging on the main jet.
@@mickthemerciless9694 I would start with my jets and increase in steps of one as needed cause it’s pretty close 80 to 88”
@@greasesgarage okay.thanks.
Are these adjustments (except acceleration pump) the same on super b
I believe it is the E and the G that are similar, as they’re both called out as the same in the recommended jetting guide from S&S
@@greasesgarage thanks
Do you recommend running a velocity stack? Is it hard to adjust or anything negative which affects the bike running condition? Appreciate your kind feedback. I really like the looks of the velocity stack specially the one similar to yours and I wanna ditch that huge ass filter!!
The people at s&s say to never run a velocity stack on a street motorcycle because it’ll lower performance. I’ve not noticed any drop in performance on mine. I run a 72 main, 29.5 pilot and dial in my air mix screw by going halfway between where it stumbles from being too rich and idle speed ramps from being too lean.
With that setup I think it’s great, but any “performance” guy will tell you don’t ever run them
@@greasesgarage Thanks for the reply man! The videos are great, keep up the awesome work! Cheers
@@mahmoodismaeel2888 thanks for the feedback man, I’m happy to hear they’re helping 🤘🏼🙏🏼
Yeah ditch the filter and your gonna need rings and a rebuild every other season ask me how I know 😂
@@richardvadovsky9931 I’ll break it some other way before then 😂😂
hello my friend, Good morning,
I just adjusted my shorty as you indicate in the video,
can you tell me why when I accelerate suddenly, the motorcycle chokes?
there would be a more pofiné adjustment?
Yes, you would want to make two adjustments now that you’ve got it set up.
Your idle mix screw, turn it out til the bike revs high, note the position. Then (while counting 1/4 turns) turn it in til the bike begins to stumble. Set it exactly halfway between these two points.
Next, set your accelerator pump. At idle, blip the throttle to check throttle response. Turn this screw in or out as needed for a smoother throttle response.
@@greasesgarage super !!!! je suis français, tu comprends notre langue ?
thank you my friend
I'll see if it's good and I'll get back to you
Could the problem also come from the ignition?
@@greasesgarage for the recovery pump I have to screw or unscrew if it still chokes
les gicleurs sont comme indiqués dans ta vidéo
@@richardgrognard6394 turn it all the way IN (clockwise) first. With the engine running, turn it out 1/4 turn at a time and blip the throttle to check response. Stop when the choke goes away
@@greasesgarage I will do like this
I'll tell you later.
THANKS
What jets would you use for a 143 cubic in ss,
S&S would be the best people to contact on that as their website only lists recommendations for up to 124ci, which they list .031 for the intermediate and .078 for the main.
You’d want to go up another size from those most likely
Really appreciate your time and support. When I ran the d shorty with,.094 main jet and.032 intermediate in 3 or 4th it would sometimes hesitate, not getting enough fuel thinking maybe I'll put .098 main jet and. 033 intermediate. The stock g carb maybe to small even if i upped the jets thank again
@wae2112 let me know what you settle on, I’d love to hear the results
@greasesgarage will do ,I'll try and tune both carbs and I will let you know the ins and outs of my results it's snowing here in Calgary Alberta now so I can't take er out anytime soon ,maybe there something I can rig up in the garage, without going threw the wall
@wae2112 stay warm brotha, I’m up here in the northeast and we’re getting some of the same
🤘🤘
I appreciate you always checkin out the new videos brotha
Of course! I never really had much of a mechanical background and ever since picking up my late buddies bike a couple years ago, I’m just trying to soak everything up best I could.
@@danebert9989 I hear ya man. I didn’t get a motorcycle til I was 24 and never worked on anything like that before.
The goal for this channel is to make all the videos I wish I had when I was getting started. Hope they’ve been helpful for ya so far
You're going over the Jets. Main Jet(.072) and then the other one .0295 You are calling it a pilot jet that is incorrect on a S & S it's called a intermediate jet. I don't know if they call the low idle jet a pilot jet on other carburetors but not on S&S it's a intermediate jet. You never even mentioned the air bleed for the main jet. I noticed the one that you were messing with is the early model ones. I also have one on my Dyna. They made the air bleed only a .04 drilled hole for the air bleed for the main jet. The newer ones came out in 2004 with the air bleed hole drilled and tapped. They use the same main jets for the air bleed. Starting with .04 then if you need a larger jet usually increase .01 increments .04, .05,.06 larger the jet size for air bleed the slower the main jet comes in. Then you're setting all the screws and the first one you go to. You said set the idle screw. It is not the main idle screw it's fuel mixture screw. dead on on the accelerator pump then you went to the last one. You said again set the (Main)] idle screw which is correct. The second time you got it right. I noticed that you brought up the velocity stack S&S says right on there paper and settings for that carburetor. To never put a velocity stack on a street driven motorcycle. That you will experience poor throttle response! By no means was I trying to pee on your parade. I've been trying to tune my Dyna today. Like you and your velocity stack. I happen to like the sound of my unbaffled pipe that is my 2 into1 Vance & Hines header. I'm a drag racer! When you said Pilot jet at 1st I couldn't figure out what you were talking about. I had to go back and double-check my notes. Take care we all do learn alot from videos just like yours. That was the whole reason I was on here trying to see if I miss something. Thanks again L.J ✌️
Don’t get too hung up on the details, remember who this video is for. New people who haven’t messed with one of these carbs before. Can a new rider see what I’m doing and effectively perform the same tasks on their carb? I believe so.
When someone tells me to put the choke on I don’t bother to remind them that S&S has a different name for it, because I know what they mean.
In a more advanced video I will get into the air bleed and a deeper dive on tuning etc, I appreciate the reminder and you checking out the video. Thanks for the tips!
Love your videos. You explain it so well that even a beginner like myself feels confident in diving in without fear. Thanks brother, keep em' comin!
Thank you for the kind words
Linkert is the first greatest carb on planet ,S&S is the second .
There's one other little opening underneath the accelerator pump. On my Super E it has a rubber plug over top of it should I remove that plug
the video is not complete
I would have liked you to disassemble the butterfly axis
and changing O-rings
I understand where you’re coming from but when you’re making a “basics” video you can’t cover every nook and cranny on the entire carb. I plan to do an “advanced” video in the future which will include that type of content, stay tuned!
@@greasesgarage MERCI AVEC LE SOU-TITRE EN FRANCAIS, SVP
I have 5 S&S carbs...from B's to Super E's.....they are kool looking, but
the truth be told, the Mikunis, VMs, the Harley CV carbs are great....S&S....like Crosby said..."meh"!
To each their own but I cannot agree with this statement haha
Excellent, Excellent, thank you for your time making these instructional videos. Much appreciated.
Happy to help, please share it with a friend who could use some help 🙏🏼
I bought a big dog bike it’s 18 years old but only has 2300 miles on it. Has sat for a while. Should I take out jets and clean? Check bowl ? I’m trying some sea foam first. Sputters when I try to give gas at higher speeds ..I’ve set screws as per your other video. Please help. Thanks. I’ve learned so much from you so fast !!!
Absolutely, pull that bowl off, clean out the carb completely and spray carb cleaner through both jets. Sea foam will help but nothing will replicate the full cleaning it’s worth it.
Also check your air filter to be sure it isn’t gummed up and preventing airflow at higher speeds
Great video. I subscribed and will be watching more
@@steevenknox4266 thank you brotha
I have the original air cleaner on my bike. No way for me to access the choke. Is there another way to use the choke?
The tear drop?
Awesome .Cool Man. Can you tell me please .I have yamaha xvs650 . Can l put S&S on my bike. Thanks.
Physically yes, but an S&S super E would be too large of a carburetor for a 650. It wouldn’t run well on that bike
After 35 years with cv carbs and triumph carbs this carb is not good. Tuned CB 550 carbs and cb 750carbs and other bikes too over the years. This just is an un-tunable turd
Just too many people running them successfully to ever believe something like this but to each their own
Trust me, I'm not happy about this. The Forums seem to have a lot of people that can't tune it either. But I won't give up yet maybe there is just something wrong with this one..
A most excellent video! Thank you.
Best bike channel on youtube. 👍🏻
Thanks brotha!
Hey Grease. Could you expand on why you prefer the s&s over the others? I think that would be important. Thanks.
No diaphragm to crack or get pinched, main jet is changeable without removing bowl, extended screws available to make the carb adjustable by hand at a light, all the cool air cleaners are made for the S&S, throttle cable mounts externally unlike mikuni, and most importantly for new people…there’s a million videos out there if you don’t know how to do something on it.
Plus with S&S being an American company it’s very easy to find their literature online, need jetting recommendations? Multiple guides on their website. These little things make all the difference when someone is new and trying to work on their carb for the first time
Agree
I have older s&s no adjusting air bleed.
Bike runs good but when I get high rpms and go it sputters . I tried bigger main still same problem.
glad I found this channel. Well done with breakdown and set up
Really appreciate that man, thank you for the message 🙏🏼
what jet size do you recommend for a 1999 sportster 1200 c
72 main 29.5 pilot to start, may need to go down a bit but that’s the best place to start
What are the symptoms if the accelerator pump o ring is missing?
I couldn’t tell you the specific symptoms because I’ve never removed the o ring but I can tell you that if the o ring is missing you should replace it right away
Best video ever thanks buddy I’ve just had a master class.
Thank you!
Also worth mentioning to make sure the accelerator pump nozzle o ring is still there when reassembling.
Yes! Great point
@@greasesgarage I lost mine when I first got a super e and fought with tuning for weeks until I realized the o ring was gone. Now I keep a bag full of them 😂
@@chopperdave1 smart! Where do you get the replacements, I can include a link in the description
Idk what keeps happening but the link I keep trying to post keeps disappearing in the comments. They have packs of 10 on the S&S website
Can anyone explain the difference in the S&S line of carburetors.
B = old. E for < 100 CI. G for > 100 CI. (aproxx)
Excellent video! I have a 97 Electra Glide that’s been cammed and has a Super E carb. I’m quite familiar with the stock carb, but I have never messed with a Super E. Simple as the Holly carb on my street rod. Thanks!
Jet sizes? Larger the number = more gas?
That’s correct 👍🏼
Awesome stuff Sir! That really helped a lot!
Stoked to hear that man! Part 2 coming soon
Thanks duder! Videos are looking great.
Thanks for tuning in!
perfect, absolutely great video! thank you so much!!
Hello friend, a couple of weeks ago, my carburetor (S&S Super E) started leaking gas through the overflow. I thought it might be the float needle or the float level, so I bought the repair kit, cleaned everything, and replaced it all. However, it still continues to drip. Do you know what it could be?
What did you set the float level at?
@@greasesgarage Yes, I did it as you explained it!!
Why do i have lots of oil Cummings out the carb from the air hole?
are you talking about the breather bolts in the head?
The rubber hose from the bottom of motor to the carburator.
@@andrerenaud8424 yours must be an early 90’s model then, I believe it was either 93 or 94 (my model) when it went to a head breather. That’s a sort of emissions thing where it vents the motor back into the carb to burn off those emissions. You can route that hose to the ground
Where'd you get your velocity stack?
Speed dealer customs. Came with the choke knob and the head breather bolts (because my evo is a head breather model)
@@greasesgarage cool I'm gonna check it out my shovel has a super e and I knew nothing about them so used to working with cv carbs on sportsters
@@richardrandolph1069 best carb for a shovel this video will get you in the ballpark 😂
Mine yourself..Main Jet can also stick to the emulsion tube..This will defeat you trying to drop the Main Jet out thru the the Float Bowl Drain Plug..The emulsion tube will not fit thru the hole...Jus So You Know..Can't be done easily on the side of the road..Entire Float Bowl Must Be Removed..😩😩😩
I see what you’re saying. I’ve never had this happen in day to day life but I see how it could. If it does happen to you, your main jet is torqued down wayyy too tight
What enrichener is that? Do you have a link?
Speed dealer customs, you’ll see it on their site it comes in several colors
@@greasesgarage thanks!
Bike runs horrible since I put on super e.
After watching this video I realize that my bowl vent hole was covered up by my air cleaner.
I removed the cap for the auxiliary vent hole, hoping that would solve my issue, and it seems to run worse.
Went back to standard factory settings, and then set the carburetor as you instruct in your other video. I just can’t figure out why it is running so poorly.
At very easy acceleration the bike runs OK, any amount of harder acceleration, and the motorcycle immediately bogs down like it’s being flooded out.
I’ve pulled the plugs and it doesn’t seem to be running to rich or to lean, plugs look fine. Can’t figure it out.
Any suggestions?
What size motor and what jets are you running?
@@greasesgarage
Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. Its a stock 80. If the cam matters it’s an EV 27, 9:5.1 pistons. Took it from fuel injection to an S&S carburetor. Put a Dynatech ignition in it.
I live in Salt Lake City, so that’s about 4400 feet. Main jet is 74, intermediate jet 31.
Runs normal until you give it any amount of gas and then just bogs down.
@JR-ss3td and what are you running for an air cleaner?
@@greasesgarage
Arlyn Ness big sucker.
@JR-ss3td ok, I’ll do some digging tomorrow and see if I can find out if you’re missing anything. I’ll let ya know brotha 🤘🏼
Intetesting and helpful info vid. I have an '03 sportster 883. Want to bore it out to 1200 but also replace the factory carb with the Super E. Is there anything I need to specifically look out for when buying the S&S for sportsters?
Why is the enricher adjustment larger on your version than the usual one?
Thank you.
Nothing specific you'd need to look out for on a sporty application beyond the jets of course. Sporty's will take smaller jets than what you see on mine for the Big Twins.
As for the enricher adjustment, mine is an aftermarket knob from Speed Dealer Customs that came with the velocity stack. The reason you have to change this is because when you take off the stock teardrop air cleaner, the enricher lever comes off too, so it has to be replaced with a standalone enricher that isn't part of the air cleaner assembly.
You can get these from a variety of different makers, this one just happened to come with the air cleaner I bought.
So glad I found your channel. Helped me a great deal!
You can adjust float height without taking it out.. jsyk.
Hey grease I bought a velocity stack like the one you have on your bike from speed dealer when I put it on the carb with the three mounting screws there's a hole on the left side does that need to be plugged?
It does not. That hole is a vent. However if you were to change to an air cleaner that BLOCKS that vent, there’s a backup vent UNDER that one (vertically) which would need to be opened up
Lots of detail. Nicely done. Still had a question on the float height. There is a little spring built into the top of the needle valve - should you press down until the needle sets in the seat, or, continue pressing until you compress the spring in the top of the valve? Makes a fairly substantial difference in teh float height at the point where it is measured.
If in doubt I’d go with less pressure. The reason I say that is because what’s going to push on that float is the pressure of the gas filling up the bowl. I can’t imagine that fluid pressure coming anywhere close to what my finger could do if I was trying to force the float down. Try light first
My Ultama R1 is almost identical, this video helped alot putting it back together. Well done.😊
Glad to hear that!
Earlier models (pre 2004) have a machined .040 orifice for the main jet air bleed. Later models are set up to accept a main jet. That let's you move around in the rpm range where the main jet picks up. You can really take advantage of this if you know how to read all aspects of what a spark plug is telling you. There's a a of great videos out there about plug analysis. But I highly recommend Kevin Baxter "how to read spark plugs like a pro." it's a very in-depth, simple explanation of what's really going on in your combustion chamber.
Excellent info thank you 🙏🏼
@greasesgarage you're welcome. Great video!
Great video, new subscriber here. What elevation are you at? I just grabbed a 1973 shovel with a super E that was at 3800 ft elevation and will now live at 7000 ft, so I’m planning on re-jetting.
I’m right at sea level up here so your jets will need to be leaner than mine 🤘🏼 thanks for subscribing
@@greasesgarage thanks! Cracking out on your channel on this cold snowy weekend. Great stuff!
I have an s&s super E carb on a 1442cc Evo. Should the jetting be the same as a 1340?
No read your plugs or hook up a wide-angle o2 sensor.
Great informative viddy as usual Grease thank you for all the effort you put into these videos you're teaching this old dog some new tricks 🤓One question for you were did you get that nice brass enricher knob? Thanks
Happy to hear it man! That knob comes with a velocity stack and breather bolts in a kit made by speed dealer customs. I got the whole kit on sale for $111 if I remember correctly
@@greasesgarage Thank You...
Simply outstanding video. Saved me hundreds at the mechanic shop..
That’s awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing 🤘🏼🙏🏼
Can you make a video on tuning this thing and getting it mint? Every once in a while my 97 big twin will start back firing and popping on me.
I definitely can, I’ll add that to the rotation. Thanks!
That tuning video is now live! th-cam.com/video/E6lL84Qnykg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uceg5iE-2CSd5gzE
Explained so easy a monkey could do it. Thank you
That’s the best comment I could ask for, thank you brotha! 🙏🏼
Great info thanks for sharing.
I live in Denver Co., what size main jet should I use for this elevation. It's on a S&S motor, just got the bike and don't know much about the S&S motors. We are at 5500 feet, that is an average elevation for the front range. The bike has a super G on it now, an American Iron Horse Outlaw 2002, with a 076 main jet, bike came from Vegas.
Are you having issues with the 076 that’s in there now? How do the plugs look when you pull them?
@@greasesgarage No, I just got the bike to Colorado and I am going through it now. It sat for about 4 years.
@@DannyKessels-h7o I would give the whole carb a full cleaning. Especially the float bowl and jets, check the float height as well. Everything you see in this video basically.
From there, reassemble, warm up the bike, and set your air mix screw halfway between where it stumbles and where the idle speeds up.
Then go for a ride and pull the plugs when you get home. If you don’t feel any bogging or hear any popping, and the plugs aren’t black…leave it the way it is
캬브레타 구입처 부탁합니다
Great video and definitely something to get good at doing.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Super stoked you’re doing this youtube thing! Always knew you’d kill it while listening to the podcast
I appreciate that brotha, was just nervous about learning all this editing stuff but now I wish I had started years ago
Your tip help me so much just by watching this video I came out with a doctored in s&s super e
Ready to operate 🤘🏼
@@greasesgarage 😂👊
Excellent video, thanks.
Excellent video, just in time for my long over do inspection and cleaning.
Glad you liked it 🤘🏼
After watching this video I went for it with the 97 Evo. I pulled off the the bowl cleaned out the jets that were not bad adjusted the float a tiny bit replaced the o rings on the head breather got it back together ready to go. Now the 47 knuckle is up on the rack for its turn. Love your videos, keep them coming.
@@degonzomanthat’s awesome man, nice work!
Great informative video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching, glad to hear it was helpful!
How would I know if my accelerator nozzle ( brass stem ) is clean? Doesn’t seem like it comes out, just turns.
Are you talking about the accelerator pump rod itself or the nozzle it runs through?
The brass nozzle with the 1/4 inch hex nut on it, the rebuild kit didn’t come with a new one. I notice there’s a notch on the very top. I thought maybe if it was plugged that’s why when I turned the throttle I had gas leaking from the boot from the accelerator rod. Sorry if I’m not clear enough, this is my first rebuild.
I just don’t see how the notch is clean or another hole where it would squirt out…all it does is turn and doesn’t unthread out
@@mattheweckenrode351 could you shoot me a picture @greasesgarage on Instagram
Excellent presentation. I'm feeling much more confident working on it after watching
That’s great to hear, glad you dove in! 🤘🏼
I noticed the main jet is spraying toward the front cylinder when I twist the throttle rather than spraying down the center. Maybe a indication it's partially clogged?
@bobtoner9820 definitely. Either that or somehow it got bent
I thought I would post a update. The part I was calling a jet is the accelerator pump nozzle. Initially it was spraying to the front cylinder. I tried to clean it up but when I put it all back together it was spraying a stream instead of a nice fan.
I found out that the tip comes off the rest of the shaft. I ran notebook paper through the slit and Seafoam. Nice fan spray now which will be easy to check by just removing the air cleaner in the future. I also didn't realize that you can test and adjust the spray pattern by just putting some fuel in the bowl and pressing down on the pump shaft before putting it back together and on the bike. For some of the smaller holes I used the small wire used on bread wrappers. I also found that the adjustment screws needed to be cleaned up so they move freely to facilitate adjustments.
This isn't meant to detract from the video as I greatly benefited from it.
You are a good man 😉👍. Regards from Norway 🇳🇴
Wow, all the way in Norway! Glad to have you here 🙏🏼
@@greasesgarage hmmm. Driving harley since 1985....this year I'm 60... And a lot of bikes before that 😉
Great video...very helpful.
Thank you!
Great video.
Thank you Tommy
👍😎👍
Can y'all make some sporty vids too?
Anything in particular you’re looking to see? It’s just me running this channel and I’ve only got this big twin but I can do some episodes in other peoples garages to get the specific stuff you’re trying to see
Maybe some basic trouble shooting videos or what to look out for like common issues and how to resolve.
This may need a Loctite or Bob assist video
Just got a 1200 sportster with this carb ….it kinda pops from the carb when you down shift occasionally? I haven’t messed with any settings
Overall runs good …and sometimes it bogs on the initial take off
I would start by setting it to the recommendations in this video and see what it’s doing from there. This is the baseline.
If you’re popping after down shifting, your idle circuit is lean
Could it run better on the baseline adjustments?
@@greasesgarage I wouldn’t say it pops after I’m downshifting it happens when I crack the throttle downshifting
@@travislohneis224 you would have to start by following the instructions in the video because I’m not able to know anything about your carbs settings unless you do
Outstanding tutorial
Thank you Gary!
Sorry man it is much easier than that. The G is a better carb for inches. You failed the 74. Not .
Sorry man I can’t understand what you’re saying
Huh??
I have a 1340 Shovelhead, with drag pipes. What would you recommend the jet setting for that?
Thank you for your video, been having a hell of a time trying to find a video about this subject.
I would run the same as me to start out. 72 main 29.5 intermediate
@@greasesgaragethank you ever so much! I also used a 068 for the air bleed I hope that works
I feel like that’s large for the air bleed but I’d have to check with S&S
Ok I'll change it down to 066
The only one i have smaller is 040
Great video by the way
I’m newbie what does vent hole make and why air comes through it with no filtration??? Will it make carb dusty inside?🤨
This is a fair question. To S&S defense the stock filter and vent hole location are behind the filtration protection it’s only once you remove the factory filter that you’d need to use the aux port and ONLY if your aftermarket filter covers that standard vent hole. Most don’t cover that hole though so it’s rare you’d need to use it and no it’s not covered by the filter
@@greasesgarage i still don’t understand does dusty air go through carb and engine or doesn’t?
@user-lr3di2gp7o if you take the stock filter off and use a filter that doesn’t cover that plug then yes. If your filter does protect that area, then no. It depends on what filter you use
@@greasesgarage in video you said that if filter covers vent hole you will have to open auxiliary vent hole from underneath. Doesn’t make any sense 🤨that auxiliary vent isn’t filter protected
@@greasesgarage thanks to you I decided to go with mikuni carb instead 🥸
Great video, made me check out your others also great.
Do you recon you can do a tuning video for after you have done factory setting.
My Evo is running far to fast even with the idle screw full out. 🫣🤷🏼♂️
Absolutely, I’ll add that to the video list
Hey Adam, that tuning video you were looking for is now live! th-cam.com/video/E6lL84Qnykg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uceg5iE-2CSd5gzE